MN-90 1/12 Defender D90 - Mods and Upgrades

[@donaldsneffe]

Test of different driver figures: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZTUqHx_isaSsM0

[@alaasalyaaa6195]

what shocks u use?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@alaasalyaaa6195 Front nice oil filled shocks from an old 1/18th Hobbyking short course truck, and rear 1/18 ECX Ruckus shocks with stock MN-90 springs (Rucks springs are harder). But there will be for sure other, maybe better options.

[@12bayhakim]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKHClIdtmN-Witk

[@jjvizms]

I have to tell you thanks for all the effort. I have a few cars and this is where i come to check out the detailed reviews from 1/8th to 1/24th scale. The effort and detail you put into your videos is amazing. Thanks and 🍻

[@CRAMOSinnovations]

Nice, this is exactly what I want to do to mine. A more scale look.

[@P8FPV]

Soo cool nice work I wanted to upgrade the radio esc etc but didn't want to loose the lights this is super helpful thanks

[@zakwannasir]

Wow, this is really a nice MN-D90. I love the way you modified it, which is simple but have badass look. I’m new to this Rc Crawler, thanks for sharing your idea and modification work.

[@user-ki6hh4bq8j]

One of most coolest Mn 90 i ever seen on Internet! Hats off 🎩🎩🎩

[@simoncycling6685]

Great looking truck ..best mn 90 on KZbin ..my next build for sure ..with the popularity of this truck metal upgrades will come ..

[@12bayhakim]

Mn d90 om river kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKHClIdtmN-Witk

[@gezdonaghy2456]

stunning work, absolute class piece of rc modeling

[@DS-ez4er]

Such a great truck. Obrigado!

[@fruit5488]

Coolest MN90 I've ever seen

[@donaldsneffe]

Servo and front axle upgrade video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoqldpZ9f9OqiJo

[@rcadventuresunlimited]

one of the best mods 👍👍 great work

[@TheBestMobileRC]

Wow, that’s great my friend. Love your content. SUBBED👍. Keep going

[@Maikel1500]

Hey there, I really like your build. I’m also building one, would like to see you build another one. The Extensions on the side are a great idea and I like to try that too. Look like they where bent in a special way. Hope to see more builds as this one, i bet you can build your own one from scratch.

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you. Such sliders are meanwhile available as upgrade parts from some Chinese companies (Banggood, Ali, ...).

[@Maikel1500]

@@donaldsneffe not like these cupped ones, they are more effective. Again I hope you show or build another one, it shows creativity and handy craft. You made it look and work better than before, you made it a 9 on a scale of 10.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Maikel1500 Still have some to finish (WPL C44KM, JJRC Q60, JJRC mud truck), they are "in progress" but not finished for a long time. Actually I am more focussing in the smaller scales... Can change ;-) (also do have some 1/10 builds not finished ;-) ). A lot of projects... and not so much time.

[@faerircchanel1820]

Sangat bagus bro ... Saya suka dengan detailnya ... 👍👍👍

[@martinbrodin6396]

Hello! Really nice rig and mods! I wonder how you did lowering the body? Thanks!

[@donaldsneffe]

Thanks. Using different shocks and smaller tires (WPL tires).

[@martinbrodin6396]

donaldsneffe Thanks! How many mm have you lowered the body onto the chassi? The body is held on by magnets in the back but how is it secured in the front? Have you glued the hood closed?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@martinbrodin6396 Sorry, I do not know anymore how many mm - it is already some years I built this model. Simply used smaller shocks and tires. Hood does not open in a MN90. Front: I made a bar below the hood and used M3 screws (heads) from chassis side as a kind of "hook", clip in and then fixed with magnets on the rear side. I show this in detail in one of my MN-90 videos. Works perfectly.

[@enriquevelazquez2122]

Nice but to many custom for me, I don't know enough to do something like that

[@keehdesign]

Hi, love your MN90. Would you show how you do the front body clip with M3 button head screws and sockets? I will try to convert mine.

[@donaldsneffe]

Thanks. Check 9:30 and 23:50... little bit of tinkering and testing, but not difficult.

[@DroneLifeRC]

Nice

[@neilhamilton2621]

Great detail and low price get one ordered

[@danielemulazzi7309]

WOWW !!!...troppo bello !!!...ben fatto !!!

[@JoseGarcia-yk3dl]

GREAT! i need the reference of this whels and tires . your link is out. Thanks!

[@donaldsneffe]

The "sticky WPL tires", no glue where to get those nowadays.

[@RCWORLD4x4MODEL]

Lucks great love it. Nice custom:) keep going.

[@drakorc]

nice video

[@mistermasada1829]

Great job on the mods!!

[@MrKonsole1]

Top!

[@Andozable]

Nice defender sir

[@jculaton]

great video! is it possible to lower the ride height on the stock shock absorbers as well? Just got my mn90 and im trying to get it to look as "realistic" as possible.

[@donaldsneffe]

Thanks. Do not really think so - did not play with the stock shocks. But you could use softer springs (or shorten the springs and make them proper length again) and if the truck is heavy enough, it should sit lower - kind of droop setup. But I do not know how this affects performance...

[@jculaton]

@@donaldsneffe many thanks!

[@MrMosinNagant1937]

You did a good job

[@TheMasterNo6]

Are those the same wheels/tyres from a WPL B24? Can a 4.8v to 6v servo be compatible with a 7.4v Lipo battery?

[@donaldsneffe]

Those are the soft tires (see my tire test video). Lipo Battery voltage is not important for servo, servo will get power from receiver (and speedcontroller), BEC (of speedcontroller) regulates the voltage, most cheap ones have 5 or 6 Volt.

[@TheMasterNo6]

@@donaldsneffe So my 4.8v to 6v servo is compatible with the 7.4v Lipo battery? Btw, can you provide a link to the thin tyres and wheel hubs you've used and recommend to put on a MN99 that make thrm look like the tyres on your Land Rover? Are they C14/C24 or C34/C44 type? Thanks.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@TheMasterNo6 Yes. Only ESC (and maybe motor) have to be compatible with your battery. Servo and receiver get (normally 5 - 6 V) from ESC, no matter if you plug in 2 or 3s Lipo or 5 or 6 cell NiMH. The links are here in the description.

[@TheMasterNo6]

@@donaldsneffe I bought a WPL ESC kit for my B24. It came with a 7.4v Lipo battery. The servo I bought has metal gears and is 4.8v to 6v output. So that's ok?

[@TheMasterNo6]

@@donaldsneffe So those medium hard rims and tyres from WPL are compatible with the existing MN99 axles? Are C34 tyres and wheel rims compatible with the MN99

[@Polecat54941]

You did a really good job with this D90 very scale looking and very impressive. I read what you said about the figures you used and slightly confused by the size as a 1/12 scale should be 15cm and 1/10 scale should be 18cm so what size figure did you use for this model as your links seem to go to figures which are 12.7cm? thanks for sharing your creation!

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you. Yes, it is rather difficult. Shane is 5 inch (about 12.5 cm), what would be only 1.50 m in 1/12 scale. So he is a little bit too small. But 6 1/2 - 7 inch (16 - 17 cm) figures are too large. The MN-90 is about 1/12 (- 1/11) scale, but the interior, mainly the seats, are much smaller, ca. 1/15. Also the driver seat is not aligned to the steering wheel. I made an unboxing video in early December when I had received my MN-90, which I never uploaded to KZbin. Show several figures in this video. I cut the part with the figures and uploaded this video, so you can easily see, how different figures do. Check the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZTUqHx_isaSsM0

[@Polecat54941]

@@donaldsneffe Exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, Many thanks for directing me to it and I love what you are doing please keep it up :)

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Polecat54941 You did not miss it. I uploaded it right now because you had asked about the figures. Probably will help several hobbyists in choosing their figures.

[@thedrafter65]

🙏👍

[@maddogrc7910]

Nice👍

[@Goldfishdave]

Awesome video. My kit is currently on the way! What figures did you use for the driver and passenger? Thanks

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you. Figures are the Walking Dead Serie 5 Shane and Lydia www.amazon.de/dp/B01BOV5I82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TfMsCbSXG156B www.amazon.de/dp/B01BOV5I32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kjMsCb9R3BXRZ

[@Goldfishdave]

@@donaldsneffe thanks. They work really well.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Goldfishdave Yes - but for "driving" I removed the plastic joints of Shane and replaced those with rubber bands. Won't work with original joints. And seats are "bad" in the MN-90, they are probably only 1/16th scale. Steering wheel is more left, not in center of drivers seat. Had to remove the left part of drivers seat and bottom, to make Shane sit well (and still he seems to be a little bit too small for the MN-90), Lydia is much smaller than Shane and can sit well without seat Modifikation. But had to cut the lower legs of both.

[@Goldfishdave]

@@donaldsneffe these things are never simple, but that's all part of the fun.

[@martinbrodin6396]

How have you connected the light controller to the esc and steering servo? It looks to be a custom 5 pin connector because you did solder connections in the reciever? What is the unit above the rear axle that the 5-pin was connected to then? Thanks! Martin

[@donaldsneffe]

It is a LaneboryRC lightcontroller - for the old standard version (as in this old video/truck) you'll have to connect power, steering, throttle and one aux-channel. You can use the connectors you want. Rear connector is a simple 5-pin JST-XH connector female with "saver" (a "balancer connector"), and Dumont/pin on the other side - I used it to have a simple way to connect the lightcontroller (mounted to body) to the receiver, a custom quick release for easily taking the body (with lights and light controller) off.

[@martinbrodin6396]

@@donaldsneffe Thank you! Did you solder in a chip (?) in to the reiever or just tap into the signal wires for CH 1-3 and power? I want to build a Laneboys rc LC and maybe also a preprocessor. Seems to be a great little controller!

[@donaldsneffe]

@@martinbrodin6396 It is great. If I have enough room, I simply make "Y-servo-cables" as usual. If I do not have room, as in this case, I solder wires for the lightcontroller directly to the receiver, lower side of the board.

[@PrinceofMacedonVlogs]

those wheels look way better and more fitting. I noticed on your list, it says "medium hard" by the wheels/tires. Why does it say that?

[@donaldsneffe]

Because the tires that come with rims are medium hard/soft. I also give the link for the supersoft tires in the description. The tires which you can buy seperately (without rims) are much softer. The tires which come with the RTR WPL B1 are hardest. So there are 3 different types of tires. I use the softest tire type (bought without rims). I made foam inlays for the tires and put weight (lead) into the tires to perform better.

[@colinrixom8003]

Great Video! it inspired me to get my own MN 99s. Now that its arrived, I see why it needs better speed control as its very difficult to do low speed crawling. I have looked at your links I dont know what do choose. I think I would need a transmitter, ESC and receiver ? what combination would be the best and best value for me to improve the low speed control of my car? PS: I have ordered the same wheels with taller tires and going to make it a tortoise colour. Thanks in advance !

[@donaldsneffe]

Radio (transmitter/receiver) is difficult, because there are so many options. If you wanna stay in the about 20 bucks range, you will find some options here: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3462829-WPL-MN-JJRC-and-Similar-Trucks-Models-Spare-and-Upgrade-Parts-Overview - I do have a DumboRC, Hobby Porter 91803G, HK-GT2B, all of them are ok. Best value for sure is a Flysky GT3C, if you do the 8 channel firmware upgrade; I love mine. I do also have a Flysky Noble, fantastic radio, awsome value for the money. But there are many more options, cheap ones as 7 ch Hobby Porter, Flysky GT5, ... Absima, Spektrum, Futaba, ... radio is also a kind of "religion" and also depending on how much you wanna spend. A 15 bucks Hobby Porter 3-ch 91803G is really ok, ... and a 500 bucks Futaba... is ok, too (but too expensive). Best value brushed ESC for crawlers is for sure the Hobbywing Quicrun 1080, awsome, small ESC (also for 1/10 crawlers). But cheaper Hobbywing 1060 or 1625 (no crawler mode) are very good and good value, too. But be aware, you will need to make room for those ESCs, it is no plug and play. But the small 10 - 20 A ESCs for cheap work quite fine, too - and they do not need a lot of room. You will find a list in the link above. Have fun!

[@paul1349]

You did a terrific job it looks very good think I'm going to buy one and make it the same way if it's okay

[@donaldsneffe]

OK ;-)

[@12bayhakim]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKHClIdtmN-Witk

[@12bayhakim]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKHClIdtmN-Witk

[@ilwanpradipta]

What brand of motion steering wheel do you have? Your RC is really nicely done

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you! I do not really understand the question. Brand? No brand, microservo controlled by LaneBoysRC Lightcontroller, which has an output for a steering servo.

[@toddbertram6556]

Are you running the wpl c34 tires? I'm looking for some decent crawler tires for my mn90.

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes, on the C34, not on the MN-90. C34 tires are not very good (hard, not sticky). On the MN-90 I run the "soft" WPL tires. They are best (but have to be glued). Check my tire test video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnXUY4OQqbSsg6M

[@theonlygamer6084]

Do you know anything about Funtek RAID Adventure 1

[@donaldsneffe]

Checked it - it is only another rebrand, so it is the same truck. They are sold under quite a lot of different names (rebranded).

[@offroadrunner644]

Hey the car looks great. I just bought a mn99 and im going to install led lights. What kind did you use for the oval turn signals on the sides? I don't want a circular look to them. Yours look great.

[@donaldsneffe]

It is really easy in the MN-90, you do not have to use SMD LEDs! Simply use 1.8 mm LEDs, they fit well into the opening/hole in the body that is meant for the rod of the side turning light. You'll have to cut the small mounting-rod of the signal light glass and sand it carefully inside, and then glue the glass to the body. Inserting the LED from inside into the bore, that was meant for the mounting rod, is easy, and then secure the LED (and wires) with "Shoego" (E7000, E6000, ...). Good luck, have fun!

[@offroadrunner644]

@@donaldsneffe Good idea. Thanks for the answer. Did you use the same technique for the taillights and indicators or did you simply install bigger leds directly to the body?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@offroadrunner644 Smaller LEDs, used SMD LEDS in the back. Do not know why.. ;) - you can use any LED that fits. 1.8 mm LEDs are much easier to solder than small SMD LEDs.

[@offroadrunner644]

@@donaldsneffe So you actually used the leds like real light bulbs and kept the covers you got with the body?Did you just paint the covers and used white leds all over? Or is it coloured SMDS glued to the body you see in the back?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@offroadrunner644 No, I used coloured LEDs, (warm) white, red, orange. And I did paint the glass if necessary, using Tamiya clear red and orange. For this model I did not make light bulbs, simply glued the LEDs to the body bores, covering them with T-7000 black glue.

[@anthonyaviles8665]

Which boards do I have to get to be able to make them can you telle what to down load to get them. Made

[@donaldsneffe]

What boards to you mean? What do you mean with "them"? Download? Do you mean the lights? Check LaneboysRC: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4fcf3SMiphgpc0

[@jeromedaniel8974]

Hast du evtl. einen Link für den Motor und das Getriebe. Ich suche schon mich noch zu tode.

[@donaldsneffe]

Schau mal hier, da findest du fast alles: www.rockcrawler.de/thread/40390-tuning-ersatzteile-und-zubeh%C3%B6r-f%C3%BCr-1-16-military-trucks-von-wpl-jjrc-mz-fayee-mn/

[@bikerunner-ry1ju]

optisch der Hammer aber der ESC total Toy like Kein Feingefühl...

[@donaldsneffe]

Das liegt aber nicht am ESC sondern am zu kleinen/schwachen Motor. Auf der Geraden ist er gut und fein regelbar, viel feiner als die 10 - 20 A ESCs, aber sobald es über Hindernisse geht, zeigt der Motor seine schwäche. Der Hobbyking X-Car 45A, den ich verbaut habe, ist eigentlich ziemlich gut (für den Preis sogar fantastisch), der 180er Motor ist das Problem. Hab 370er auf dem Weg, glaube, die werden aber zu groß sein. Hätte auch noch Hobbywing 1060 und 1080 hier, die würden aber (mit diesem Motor) nichts verbessern.

[@12bayhakim]

Mn d90 om river kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKHClIdtmN-Witk

[@Jvani83]

Please can you link direct the metal gears that you use? thanks

[@rejaneneves9114]

www.banggood.com/custlink/mvmDyb0AOQ (or use any other metal set and make your own shafts a little bit longer out of 3 mm steel rod as I did).

[@alexandrerebelo2202]

Hi. Can you please give me the name of the shocks and the name of the battery so i can bue on ebay. Thnks

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi, I use an (old and cheap) Turnigy 1000mAh 2s 20c Lipo Pack: hobbyking.com/de_de/turnigy-1000mah-2s-20c-lipo-pack.html Shocks: There are for sure other, maybe better shock options. I use as rear shocks ECX213000 www.horizonhobby.com/complete-shock-set%3A-1-18-4wd-all-ecx213000 - but with original MN-90 shock springs, because the ECX springs are hard. For front shocks I use shocks of an old Hobbyking 1/18 RTR Shortcourse Truck, they are very nice and oil filled. But Hobbyking does not sell it anymore, even no pics on their website. It is very similar to the WLToys A969 www.banggood.com/custlink/vGGmEldJwT , I use the shorter rear shocks www.banggood.com/custlink/KKDKYoEFYo , probably you can also use the front shocks www.banggood.com/custlink/G3GmEaYtRA or upgrade shocks for this truck (I do use in other cars): www.banggood.com/custlink/GKD3daEHd7 or www.banggood.com/custlink/GKKGdOdHCt

[@johnsalt19]

Hi have you got a link for the light controller board plz

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi - you cannot buy this LaneBoysRC Lightcontroller in a shop, see the video of LaneBoysRC: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4fcf3SMiphgpc0 , if you understand German, please read here: www.rockcrawler.de/thread/40099-der-lightcontroller-von-laneboysrc-einfach-genial/

[@ReticulaNorte]

could you please make a video of how you put the address on the steering wheel of the mn90 defender d90 please

[@donaldsneffe]

Do you mean the endpoint for the steering wheel servo? The steering wheel servo is controlled by my LaneBoysRC lightcontroller, and the servo endpoints can be adjusted with the software to program the controller Or do you mean how to make a moving steering wheel? Simply mount a tiny servo behind the dashboard, make a axleshaft for the steering wheel, mount servoarms to this shaft and connect servo and steering wheel with a (custom) pushrod.

[@user-ki6hh4bq8j]

@@donaldsneffe i got what i was looking for. Thanks a lot!

[@neilhamilton2621]

How you replace the stock steering box

[@donaldsneffe]

Did not replace it, use the lower part of the steering box with stock servo, do not use the upper part (battery box).

[@totem_pole]

Please tell me if this goes in a straight line while not turning?

[@donaldsneffe]

You mean the car? For sure, if steering is trimmed well.

[@totem_pole]

donaldsneffe Because I bought one of cheap rc crawlers and it’s last direction get stuck while not turning.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@totem_pole But mine here is totally upgraded with metal parts, new servo, good receiver/transmitter...

[@simorquibi1006]

can you make a video on how to add the glass in the back

[@donaldsneffe]

Simply use thin clear plastic, for example from packing material, or thin lexan. A lot of things, electronic parts, toys, etc. etc. come packed and sealed in such a clear "hard plastic". Cut it, bend it if necessary, and glue it in place and, if necessary fix it with masking tape or any sticky tape till the glue is dry. Do not use CA! I use E6000 glue for windows ( www.banggood.com/custlink/D3mvy0AZyi ). I used packing material for the "round" windows, and used parts, which already have been rounded/curved.

[@simorquibi1006]

@@donaldsneffe thank you,you gave me a lot of ideas,thumbs up for ur good work

[@gautamsenthilkumar823]

What's the action figure size for d90

[@donaldsneffe]

About 12 - 15 cm, ca. 5 inch, depending on the figures.

[@GMS86_RC]

bisakah anda tunjukkan kepada saya modifikasi tempat baterai dan perangkat elektroniknya? BTW modifikasinya sangat menarik.. :)

[@donaldsneffe]

? English, German or Portugues please ;)

[@GMS86_RC]

@@donaldsneffe could you point out to me the modification of electronic devices and the battery compartment? BTW the modification is very interesting ... :)

[@donaldsneffe]

@@GMS86_RC No modifications of electronics, stock servo, stock motor. ESC Hobbyking X-Car 45A without housing. Light controller LaneboysRC (see link to the video channel). Battery compartment: Used some metal sheet (from a housing of an old electronic device), cut it with Dremel tool, bended it, sanded it, drilled holes and mounted it to the frame. Nothing special. Meanwhile I mounted an upgrade servo and metal parts, will uploade the video this weekend.

[@rcgarageph7228]

What motor is that 180?

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes, the original motor that came with the kit, a 180 motor.

[@rcgarageph7228]

How did that climb 40 degree thats cool i have question what is more torque 130 brush or 180

[@donaldsneffe]

@@rcgarageph7228 On the video it is 45°, but it does even climb a little bit more, steeper climbs. Those tires are very sticky, and the center of gravity of my MN-90 is very low, because I made those "sliders" out of metal, the battery sits very low, and I put some weight into the tires. Low Center of gravity helps a lot when climbing steep angles. The motor is a 180 motor, that has more torque than a 130 motor; 180 is larger (longer), but torque of 180 is still not very good, you can see this in the videos when I climb the "step" of my "living room Mini-Z jump". A 370 would for sure be much better, but there is not a lot of space left between chassis and body, because I lowered the body. Furthermore the original plastic gears are very weak (do already slip with 180 motor), and the plastic drive shafts are very weak, too. So metal upgrades are highly recommended, already with the weak 180 motor.

[@anubhav1309]

how to install led light kit in mn d90 bro plz tell us.........

[@donaldsneffe]

No kit, custom made

[@anubhav1309]

how

[@donaldsneffe]

@@anubhav1309 I use a LaneboysRC lightcontroller: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4fcf3SMiphgpc0 Many different LEDs, wires, soldering, programming on computer, ...

[@yGustaSadzinn]

man, what about that OPA at minute 4:17?? You are Brazilian?

[@donaldsneffe]

No sou Brasileiro, mas falo (mal) Portugues ;-) Minha mulher e Brasileira, amo o Brasil e o Amazonas, trabalhei la por uns anos, queria voltar e mudar, mas e complicado.

[@yGustaSadzinn]

@@donaldsneffe entendi, q legal cara, espero q algum dia você consiga voltar pra cá! Boa sorte pra você! (I hope you understand what I said)

[@donaldsneffe]

@@yGustaSadzinn Obrigado! Sim, entendo quase tudo em Portugues, falo todo dia, mas falar e mais dificil (sou da Austria, na minha lingua Österreich - tenta dizer esta palavra ;-) ).

[@syahrulramdzanibintiahmads4600]

what the color is it

[@donaldsneffe]

Vallejo 73.606 German Green Brown Primer + flat clear.

[@mrtherdiansyah]

Link buy miniature figure ? Help me

[@donaldsneffe]

Shane and Lydia, Walking Dead Series 5 www.amazon.de/dp/B01BOV5I32/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_0loxCb2HSBQ16 www.amazon.de/dp/B01BOV5I82/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_unoxCbZ3SNGG6

[@mrtherdiansyah]

@@donaldsneffe thanks bro

[@bikerunner-ry1ju]

why not in Deutsch...

[@donaldsneffe]

Weil ungefähr 185 Millionen Menschen auf der Welt Deutsch sprechen und mindestens 2 Milliarden (eher mehr) Englisch sprechen, und noch weitaus mehr zumindest etwas Englisch verstehen.

[@bikerunner-ry1ju]

ach so. Deshalb auch die anderen Deutschen Videos :-)

[@donaldsneffe]

@@bikerunner-ry1ju Von mir? Ich versteh das/Dein Problem nicht. Mit einem Video in englischer Sprache erreicht man doch weitaus mehr Leute als in deutscher Sprache, und zumindest ein bißchen Englisch verstehen wohl auch (fast) alle Deutschen. Und so kompliziert ist die Materie nicht, dass man um das Video zu verstehen super Englisch können müßte. Ich finde jedes deutschsprachige Video zu einem Thema, das die User weltweit interessiert (oder interessieren könnte), eigentlich schade, da die Sprache enorm viele potentielle Zuseher kostet. Noch was zum Aussetzen außer Sprache und ESC? … ;-) - typisch, Kritik kommt wieder nur von den Deutschen (hab nix dagegen, nicht falsch verstehen, vertrag das als Österreicher schon), … "Os Alemaoes sempre reclamam"... das wissen sogar die Brasilianer ;-)

[@bikerunner-ry1ju]

nur die Ruhe alle gut :) Die Klicks belegen ja das du viele Leute erreichst. Schönen Abend noch