Drafting a pair of 18th Century Side Hoops (panniers) || Robe a la Francaise costume pt 1

[@Sewingistherapy]

I think you should go on into the dress personally. But whatever you decide, I’m looking forward to seeing it! Erika

[@DixieDIY]

Thanks, I’m leaning more towards moving forward with the gown

[@honoraweaver788]

I think the dress should be next. Unless the stays are going to make a big difference in the silouhette I think they can wait.

[@DixieDIY]

They probably won’t make much of a shape difference, they’d just look pretty 😆(I have a fancy silk for them)

[@honoraweaver788]

There’s something to be said for making pretty things with pretty fabric. Looking forward to whatever you create.

[@TriciawithaC]

This could just be me wanting to see the dress completed sooner, but I don't think the fit of the gown will be all that different over a new pair of stays. The stays wouldn't be that different in the back, and the pleated sack back is loose enough that it shouldn't be affected by the change. And I'm assuming the front of the gown would close with a stomacher, and those closures are adjustable. Maybe you could construct the bodice with flat-lining and leave larger seam allowances in the shoulders, in case the fit needs to be adjusted in the future?

[@DixieDIY]

That’s a great idea about extra seam allowances, I’ll have to remember that!

[@alyssawesselmann2554]

Dress next!

[@XenonFae]

This video has perfect timing! I am planning on making pocket hoops (hopefully) soon! I am team “Make the 1740s stays first!” I think it would be fun to see you how you make them and how they differ from the 1780s stay making process!

[@DixieDIY]

I’m curious to see how the 1740s design looks in real life but I know I’d need to make a mock up first so it’ll be like making them twice, that’s why I know it’d take so long to do. Good luck on your hoops!

[@susiesernaker2180]

I’m working on a 1770 project, too, so what great timing (for me) that you posted this. My current 18th century stays were purchased at Townsends. They’re… ok. My vote is make the stays 😅

[@kytrvlnurse]

You should go on to making the dress, in my opinion. While nice, a new pair of stays may not make the overall appearance of the gown change. Especially since the Robe a la Francaise is mostly adjustable. But I also enjoy your videos no matter what you make first. Looking forward to your next video.

[@DixieDIY]

Thanks, I agree, the gown is pretty flexible in fit so I could go without new stays 🤷‍♀️

[@autumn7143]

This was fun to watch. I’d go with the gown first. That’s just me though. Since the stays won’t make a huge difference you can make them later.

[@blacktulip1064]

Do the dress. I've got to admit that the robe a la Francaise is my least favourite historical gown but you always do such beautiful work I'm looking forward to see what you"ll create! 🥰

[@DixieDIY]

That’s interesting because people seem to really love that dress style in the historical costuming community. I only decided to make it because I found a good fabric for it. Thanks for watching!!

[@beth12svist]

​@@DixieDIY I'm another person not overly fond of some of these extra popular looks... Not the francaise, not a fan of the 1860s, not overly fond of the Edwardian era... To each their own; I still like watching others make them if they have the same excitement for just the making of and the workings of historical fashion. So, yeah, this was very interesting even though I don't see myself ever making pocket hoops. 😛

[@kitkatstitch]

When making my own version of these panniers I had the exact same problem with not allowing for enough fabric at the top. I ended up having to completely remake them. 🤦 I'm relieved to see that you were able to find a solution without have to redo all that work! They look lovely! 💕

[@DixieDIY]

Aww that’s a bummer! Yeah I was lucky I had enough fabric I could work with to fix it. Thanks for watching!

[@sarahmwalsh]

The pocket hoops are great!! I would say there is a significant enough difference in the shape of gowns from the 1760s-1770s versus 1780s that making the stays first is a good bet. The front, in particular, needs to be quite flat and straight up-and-down, as opposed to the "prow" front of the 1780s with a significant curve from the waist that pushes the bust forward. I think wearing the 1780s stays will affect the silhouette and fit when you go to cut out the bodice shapes from a 1770s pattern. And just in response to what you said about bust size, the flatness of the front isn't dependent on that. It can be achieved by the shape of the stays panels and directionality of the boning, as well as the addition of a busk.

[@helenwhite6443]

The best pocket hoops with an ‘extra’ reveal I have seen on KZbin is Hazariel Costumes.

[@DixieDIY]

I loved her little music video she made for them. She’s really entertaining!

[@DinaLie-l8k]

Your videoes are hillarious, (You are guifted with a needle but allso a great sense of humor) and the grand finale on the usefulness of your pocets, You can call this Dixie (Mary) Poppins. Thank You, Dina

[@erdbeermilch2083]

So excited for this project! ❤

[@teddy-3765]

If the difference in silhouette isn't going to be very different, I'd skip the new stays and use the ones you already have. Also, with regardto finishing the end sof the boning, have you tried running them through a flame? I saw this done online and tried it out the other day while working on a Victorian gown for a friend. They still needed a little sanding with a nail file after, but it cut out most of the sanding stage.

[@DixieDIY]

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of a flame before. I’ll have to check that out, thanks!

[@seamrapt]

Congratulations ons on the milestone passing/approaching. I have a Thing where 99 people can be lovely and I remember the comment of the one person who said something unkindly...forever, whenever I happen upon a similar situation. I really love the way you talk us through your thought process and how you deal with any challenges along the way - including this pronunciation incident; your pocket hoops look great. Regarding the stays - here is how I would think about it: Do I plan on making more clothing from this era? If not, how much do I want these stays? Will I ever actually make them if I do not make them first & find the other stays work okay?...probably not, or not for a long time, and that will bother me a bit. I already have all the materials And a custom drafted pattern. I don't have a hard deadline for when I finish the française, other than my the one I created - even though it bothers me to change my own timeline. In my mind, do I see myself wearing the stays with this new material as a part of this ensemble? Yes. Okay, then, I'll make the stays first. As a viewer, I'm excited to see the making of your française and your 1740s stays & do not care which comes first - I'm just glad to see your process with both. Thanks for making such engaging, well-detailed, researched & documented, thoughtful videos.

[@LauriesPlace999]

Missed you, hope all is well with you, thanks for sharing 🎉

[@94BlueGirl]

I think you should do the stays even if it takes you longer to get to the dress because that way you are building it inside out and the dress will go well with the stays when you eventually get to it.

[@yochva]

Always start with the proper undergarments! You'll appreciate it when you get to the final dress.

[@annettegradus9341]

I have a question of which is more historically accurate choice of stays for a robe a la française. 1740's stays or the 1780's stays? When does a robe a la française date from?

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Would the new stays affect the fit of the gown? If not, then make the dress. But if you need the new stays to get the fit of the gown right, then naturally you'll need to make them first.

[@DixieDIY]

Not reeaaallly, know what I mean?? New stays might make a slight difference in fit but not much for my body shape and this style of gown is pretty forgiving in terms of it

[@mvrooks]

I love the pink and red striped dress you are wearing. Did you make it? Also, is that a glittery black tiara in your hair? What fun! 🩷❤️🖤

[@TheSerialHobbyistGirl]

Just today I was thinking about looking for resources to make pocket hoops! I have a ticket for Fêtes Historiques de Saint Louis and I haven't started anything.

[@DixieDIY]

Ooooh, that sounds like fun! Hoops are an easy starting project. I hope your costume-making process goes smoothly!

[@subliminalphish]

Looking forward to seeing the whole project come to display.... Job nicely done on those Pan Yay's madear madam. Or is that madarn?

[@DixieDIY]

Thank you 😉

[@KathleenCrescuillo]

Hello, I an a doll costumer. I usually sew for antique French Fashion dolls in the period of 1860. I recently acquired an antique carved wood doll that dates from 1760. This is out of my area of expertise, so I was browsing for how to make panniers for under her dress. The dress on her is not historically accurate so I am altering it. This will involve adding an underskirt that shows. I appreciate your reference materials that you cited. Is there one that would dumb it down for a simpler doll design? Kathleen the doll costumer

[@amaliaoros9951]

Hi, new here and to sewing. How do you find the measurements you need to make this? I’m trying to make one for daughter (she is 6 years old) for a costume she’s been wanting.

[@MrsBrit1]

Paneer is a freshly made cheese. Pannier is a structured undergarment. 👀🤣 I say go for the dress. If new stays won't make much difference to the silhouette, there's no point in making new ones if you have a serviceable pair already.

[@DixieDIY]

Totally forgot about the cheese! 😆

[@jc8847kvkc]

Pan yays 🎉 😂😂😂😂

[@DixieDIY]

😉 😆

[@nicolawebb6025]

I love the stripey pink/red dress you're wearing. Does it have a pattern reference???

[@DixieDIY]

Yes, is the Davenport dress by Friday pattern company!

[@nicolawebb6025]

@@DixieDIY thanks, I'll look that up

[@bohemiansusan2897]

I would make the new stays unless you need to be finished by X time. If you're in danger of ending up with a UFO, then use what you already have. I'm not much of a costumer. I often blend style elements into my modern wardrobe such as a velvet frock coat to wear with skinny jeans and granny boots. That is just an example. I'm sure that what I do horrifies others but oh well.

[@meacadwell]

It's historical that people would wear clothes from different styles - unless they were the elite. Use your current corset and see how it works. It if works great then no need to make another one. If it doesn't work right for the look or fit with that dress then you have another project on your hands.

[@sabrinal.nelson6714]

As much as I would love to see your process making the stays, I think you should make the dress first. Rationale: You’re going to do a mockup of your dress, right? See how it fits and looks with the current stays. If you are happy with it, and comfortable, then just make the dress.

[@thecalicoheart7946]

Pronounce words however you want. 🙄 Language changes all the time. 🤷🏼‍♀️ Thank you for all you share. 👍😊🙏💝

[@DixieDIY]

Thank you, I just thought that comment was too funny 😂

[@marywalker5397]

Onward, please! You can make the stays later if you feel inclined.

[@thefireburner543]

I would say make the stays!

[@LittleLoudThing]

do what you feel is best for you

[@conniemurdoch8528]

If you want the dress to look the best, do all your underpinnings especially the stays. Dresses can look very different with different foundations.

[@crumpledrag2732]

Keep your current stays and make the dress!!

[@debsbeeing1978]

Make the stays!

[@bimbimmarco304]

😂😂😂😂 same I got the pronunciation wrong 😂😂😂

[@shellylrobinson6999]

I’d say make the dress next, unless you’ll always be mad that they’re over the wrong stays. In that case make the stays next.

[@silmarlfan1]

if you want the most accurate look, try making the new stays first but if it don't change your shape, plow along girl

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

If your current stays are totally comfortable, stick with them; if not, make new ones.

[@gussischubert3250]

😻 P R O M O S M