Drafting and Making a Late Victorian Waistcoat (1895)

USEFUL THINGS:
The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: archive.org/details/keystonej...
Bertha Banner’s Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking: play.google.com/books/reader?...
Antique pocket watch and chain from Fine Times Watches: Alan Cartwright, owner; based in Derbyshire. / finetimeswatches
MATERIALS USED:
Wool: Ayazmoon Fabrics, NYC (1/2 yd)
Silesia: Bias Bespoke (1/2 yd) (www.biasbespoke.com/cart.php?...)
Tailor’s canvas: Steinlauf & Stoller, NYC (1/4 yd)
Buttons: Daytona Trimming, NYC (6 ct)
Synthetic baleen, 4mm x 1mm: Burnley & Trowbridge (www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...)
Ribbon casing: M&J Trimming, NYC (1 yd)
Brown cotton thread: John Lewis
Black silk thread (pad stitching): Sil Thread, NYC
Black silk buttonhole twist: Sil Thread, NYC
OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links)
-Clear 18-inch ruler: amzn.to/2DIdRrh
-Steel-headed straight pins: amzn.to/2ByJUaQ
-Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: amzn.to/2Sd76R7
-My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: amzn.to/2SaZEGf
-Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): amzn.to/2DXkUft
-Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: amzn.to/2zu9vzY
-(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: amzn.to/2KvXGgX)
-French Curve: amzn.to/2RWzWVJ
Want to get started with hand sewing?
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This channel is made possible through the generous support of Patreon members. To become a patron, visit / bernadettebanner (although videos will remain free for you here regardless).
Beyond KZbin:
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Management contact for business enquiries:
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MUSIC CREDITS:
Luminous Rain by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
“Unknown Longing” by Asher Fulero, KZbin Audio Library
IMAGE CREDITS:
libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...

[@GirishManjunathMusic]

Nice enough, she says, wearing literally the most beautiful waistcoat I have ever seen...

[@tatianabenevides4184]

Honestly

[@MelodySharp.]

It’s an artist thing, we know and remember everything that didn’t go right so we see them as flaws and we see it in the finished product where someone who didn’t make this mistakes wouldn’t catch.

[@GirishManjunathMusic]

@@MelodySharp. that's not just an artist thing, it plagues every creator and I've felt it myself, but that doesn't detract from the fact that it is indeed the most beautiful waistcoat I have ever seen.

[@MelodySharp.]

Girish Manjunath: yeah, artist, creator. it effects us all. Sorry. I wasn’t quite sure what word to use.

[@lauraleecreations3217]

Girish Manjunath YASSSSS!!!!!!

[@ssyphs]

i do not sew, i can barely mend things, yet i am so invested in the outcome of lady sherlock

[@dawncathlene6173]

Same. I hated sewing when I attempted it but binge watched every video on this channel in the last month and am suddenly on the hunt for a sewing machine.

[@1incutheta]

Same. I can do minor repairs. Minor. I don't think I have the patience for something like this.

[@alicediligianis]

Same here!

[@kerim.peardon5551]

My mother tried teaching me how to sew from a pattern using a nightgown pattern. I got up to the point of putting in the sleeves, then I quit. Years later, I got involved in medieval reenacting and suddenly I was churning out clothes for me and my my husband both--even getting to the point I was drafting my own patterns and handsewing everything. WHAT you sew can make a big difference in whether you will do it or not. If you're trying to make something because it's supposedly easy, but it doesn't really appeal to you, then you're not likely to finish it. On the other hand, if there's something you really want to have, you'll keep going.

[@DAYBROK3]

Keri M. Peardon me knitting scarves, if plain, nope, fancy lace, odd shaped, of course. 🙄

[@Wonderoddity]

When you said “he illustrates the drafting system for all body types” I heard “whether you are thin, whether you are larger, whether you are STUPID” and immediately thought YES THIS IS MEANT FOR ME

[@janisi9262]

It took me a second to realize what you were referring to, but OMG, that's great!

[@penelope-oe2vr]

It really does, it takes the guess work out of adjusting for such things as a forward leaning posture, etc, that us noobs....well, would never figure out on our own. I personally, like this book and plan to use it to draft most of my things for a good long while.

[@sazikanebaldimor2386]

stooping form. not stupid 😅 but guess both makes sense, due to the spine issue.

[@michaelaschmid]

It's kind of reassuring seeing you fiddle and flail a bit (sorry, I hope that's not insulting, I think you're wonderful). As a beginner I feel overwhelmed and flail literally every time I approach a pattern, so seeing others going through the same and solve their problem gives me the boost I need to try again.

[@estelledesigns]

Yeah learning from other people's experiences is really important, which is why I try to share all of my mistakes in my videos so others can learn what not to do haha!

[@fizzybutt4592]

I thoroughly agree with your statement, Michaela. 'Tis a boon to learn along with, if not alongside, others.

[@MommyOfZoeAndLiam]

Absolutely. Bernadette has mentioned in other videos that when people edit out their mistakes and you only see the parts that go perfectly and then a beautiful outcome it makes people watching feel bad that they can't do it like that, at least not without some problems along the way. Plus I feel like watching how someone solves a problem teaches much more than just showing the perfect way to do it because for most people that's unrealistic, especially people who are watching sewing videos to learn. Even if the problem doesn't pertain to you at the moment, it still teaches you how to go about fixing something when the first way isn't working or you've done something out of order rather than just start over, which isn't always an option due to time or cost of materials. You learn much more from failure than success!

[@sinswept]

Agreed! It is confidence boosting to see that there is a learning curve for everyone - not just yourself :)

[@BrokenMonocle]

Lord, I've been sewing for decades (at one point, professionally too!), and there are still times that I'm sitting on the floor screaming at the pattern to make more sense. This is why mockups out of muslin are such an important step, because sometimes things just don't make any sense at all whatsoever until you get it put together, and then you have an "oh, duh" moment and feel like a complete idiot. Don't sweat it, it's normal.

[@rentregagnant]

7:58 But... but... competent dressmaking is itself a Dark Art, surely?

[@maryblaylock6545]

Most assuredly.💎

[@DAYBROK3]

rentregagnant, agreed.

[@Blerdunn2618]

"How did you make "x"? It's simply divine! Time, cursing, and the sacrifice of two small children.

[@sayuriando3379]

@@Blerdunn2618 Not to forget the tiny beads of blood and the tears of anger to not have been taught this as a young child as well as the sweat of excitement and hard work.

[@kyratompsett4409]

My mother was a seamstress by trade, and when I was little, she told me that no project was ever truly complete if it didn't have a little bit of your blood on it from a needle prick. I still think about that every time I stab myself accidently. Dark magic indeed

[@garfieldmethodactor8614]

I know you won't see this, but I won't be able to live with myself if I don't thank you. For my whole life I've adored Victorian fashion, and I've always wanted to try my hand at creating my own garments but never had the confidence. For some reason, watching your videos over the past few months has inspired me to try. My designs are still off and my end products are atrocious, but I'm having so much fun with it and it's such a fun hobby to have. As a fifteen year old male, I'm not exactly the person you'd expect to see doing things like this, but I don't regret it at all. I've learned so much from your videos, mainly a very necessary reality check. It's not easy to make things like this, and it takes years of work to master. I'm nowhere near a pro, but I'm aiming to be as good as you are one day. Thank you!!! You're such an inspiration!!! I love your videos!!!!!

[@beverleybee1309]

👍 practice and perseverence are key to progress. I hope you are still enjoying your hobby.

[@krysteen5423]

Oh that's so lovely! Good luck on your tailoring shenanigans!! Oh and if you happen to be on facebook, there's a group called Historybounding where a bunch of us are doing the trying and learning and flailing thing :) if you'd like some commeraderie ^_^

[@avonleekley4623]

I just want to encourage to to follow your interest in creating your own Victorian fashion items. Like any new skill, it will take time and effort plus patience (with yourself) but you will eventually learn and love it!

[@lucykitty6492]

You are the perfect age for a tailor’s apprentice. Tailors were men after all. Great skill. Go for it!

[@angelwhispers2060]

There plenty of jobs and tailoring once you actually get good at it. I would highly recommend you also look into some of the frilly men's shirts from the early 1800s and late 1700s if the women's apparel in the Victorian period appeals to you. Also study literally every year of Dandy fashion and you will find some fabulously convoluted floofy things meant for the male body

[@tegansutherland7299]

As someone who's been a tutor for several students going through tailoring classes, I would like to throw in my own few cents with what I know of modern tailoring practices. None of what you did is wrong or bad, but to just give you more info. Although, firstly, OMFG IT LOOKS SO GOOD. I can't wait to put together a cute waistcoat like this and wear it every single day of my life. So regarding the guts of your tailoring. I was taught that you do not have ANY seam allowances on your hair canvas, as it's too bulky. All along the edges you use an incredibly thin tape to attach. You machine it to the canvas, and catch stitch it to your fashion fabric.It adds a beautiful pop of contrast. Next, I was taught to have the darts of your fashion fabric come out through the dart openings of your canvas, and catch stitch the edges of the canvas to the stitching of your dart. It allows the option of altering that dart much easier. (Although it's never easy to open up that much stitching.) Next comment. Often, a 1/2" twill tape is herringboned down your roll line. This is over the canvas. It strengthens that bend point. Regarding pad stitching, at the outermost 1/" or so of the edge of the lapel, the pad stitching rows get closer together to encourage it to roll under further and not curl at the edge. And final comment. The very upper edge of your front canvas, from shoulder seam to roughly top of bra line or thereabouts, often has a SECOND piece of canvas, cut on the bias, and attached to the canvas layer. This adds strength and reducing warping at a high twisting point. Are any of these historical? Who knows! Are they the One And Only True Way? Absolutely not. But as someone who has done a fair bit of tailoring and tutoring of tailoring, I thought you might appreciate having some extra techniques and thoughts to flap around your brain as you continue to explore tailoring. I find the more tailoring I do, the more and more I love "firm hand" sewing, and lose all patience with the light fluffies. Give me wool that I can steam and shape into submission any day! As always, I remain with baited breath waiting for your next video!

[@tijan1290]

Thank you for the information ☺️

[@laurahi3468]

Oh my god, this is so helpful!! I am attempting my first tailoring project at the moment that involves horsehair canvas and I am just terrified because I don't know what I am doing. Your descriptions combined with seeing what Bernadette did helped A LOT, I finally feel really to tackle that beast! One question, if you don't mind, is it normal that the horsehair canvas smells a bit? Like I can really smell the animal hair in it and I am unsure whether it will vanish or ruin the coat, but I am also not sure how to treat it, as washing seems out of the question... Any tips and tricks?

[@tegansutherland7299]

@@laurahi3468 Hm. Good question! I feel like most materials DO have their own scent, and it's just the scent of the material. Wool, nylon, cotton -- they aren't scent-neutral inherently. (Think of how water is thought of as flavor-neutral, yet different waters have different tastes!) If it is overwhelmingly strong for you, try simply airing it! Hang it in an open window or on a clothesline and let breeze and sun help lift some of the strong scent off of it. You could also try steaming it, either hanging in a bathroom or via iron, as it will raise MORE scent that should de-gas off. A third option that people do with antiques, is to put it in a bag with charcoal filters. Many antiques REEK but are equally non-washable, so doing a deep google of techniques for them might be a good way for you to go. Good luck with your project! Tailoring can be both frustrating AND rewarding, so just take your time and try and find the fun in the process.

[@laurahi3468]

@@tegansutherland7299 thank you so much! I aired it now for a couple of days and I have the feeling it does get a little better, but I will try and steam it as well! :) thanks so much for your help, I feel a bit more confident now!!

[@ruthanneperry1623]

The vest looks so nice and your added advise is so welcome

[@margaritastojanov6068]

Dear, sweet, Bernadette, thank you for coming into my life. Although I am old enough to be your great grandmother and have been sewing most of my life, I find your videos very helpful in one thing that I have been guilty of throughout my sewing "carrier" - rushing trough the projects. Your hand sewing, the joy you have for your projects slowed me down and I am really appreciating it now. Thank you! Your waistcoat project brought back memories from 50 years ago when I went to pattern making school, and since our country was 50 years backwards I was probably learning the pattern making of your Keystone Guide. The drawing looked very familiar to me with the grid for bodice. There were formulas and fixed numbers that are used according to your own measurements to come up with the closest personal pattern. I learned it with the metric system. Coming to the US (50 years ago) I brought my notebooks with me but then I got spoiled with the abundance of patterns available here and the rest is history. Thank you for bringing the patience and the slowing down back to me. Keep on bringing joy and fun to us, your followers.

[@esotericanomoly3]

The fact that you managed to sneak in the red ribbon in this project made me smile

[@rebeccaude4412]

BERNADETTE BANNER....🤦🏼‍♀️....you THINK it “came out nice enough to wear regularly in everyday dress”...???? IT IS SPECTACULAR!!! You worked out the tailoring, the adjustments needed for your specific spinal anatomy, the padding is perfection & the stays give it a beautiful structure! If I had accomplished something that wonderful for my 1st foray into tailoring, I would 1) wear it a minimum of four times a week & 2) stop everyone who commented on it that I HAD HAND MADE IT, using historical patterns nonetheless!! Plus I would make at least 4 more in different fabrics, lol! You should not be selling yourself short in anyway; regarding ANY piece of this outfit! I have worn period authentic Civil War reproduction undergarments/corsets/day dresses & ball gowns for YEARS...& to be perfectly honest, I am so glad I am not part of it anymore. Because, unlike Costume College where you are encouraged to learn & can ask questions about specific aspects of a garment; attending a Civil War Ball is walking in front of a firing squad. I have literally seen (& heard) the dressing down of a young lady who had made her first period correct ball gown. She was told to leave because she had added a zipper (which was absolutely not visible unless you were inspecting the gown) under the modesty panel of her skirt for extra security. I wish I knew if she was still involved with reenactments as I would love for her to know about Foundations Revealed as well as costume college! Please know that when you are showing the small (or medium size) mistakes you rarely make: they are a comfort to those of us who may be at a crossroads wondering how many layers of fabric my tiny bird snips could actually cut through when nothing is going right!!! (What...I know I’m not the only one who wonders if I can stab holes into a bodice that just WILL NOT MEET UP PER THE PATTERN 🤬 with my little birds...I know there are others out there)! You are such a breath of fresh air & it makes such a difference when I’m frustrated with my project & need to calm myself down. Kathy is also quickly becoming a favorite of mine as well, it is easy to see that you were absolutely either sisters or best friends in a past life. Such a rare & wonderful gift that is! Never change my dear, except to stop doubting your finished products! Doubting is strictly for pattern making & mock ups only. I CANNOT WAIT to see the finished Holmes & of course, Watson! Take good care of yourself, thank you for sharing with us & reminding us that if we set our minds to an idea...we CAN successfully accomplish it. Sending hugs & much love 🤗💜🥰!

[@MossyMozart]

@Rebecca Ude - That re-enactment group sounds hideous and you are well-off without them. When I was a teacher, I loved seeing the light go ON in a person's eyes, not see it go out.

[@xxflower.childxx]

Beautifully said

[@smuot7635]

That sounds just horrible, such elitism. I see that in many many communitys, there is allways some gatekeeper to whom you are never enough. I would just like to hug the girl and say that it'll be all right, you just have to find the right people.. 😞💔

[@lyreparadox]

Yeah 'period nazi's' combined with general flakiness was why I ended up leaving the SCA. Now I can play in any period I want, and be as historically accurate as I can handle. Much better.

[@xxflower.childxx]

Lyre Paradox when you said period nazis I thought you were talking about a different kind of period lol

[@gaybowser69]

For someone who can barely repair a skirt, I sure watch a lot of sewing videos

[@MossyMozart]

@Mila lana Cameron - .^_^.

[@DAYBROK3]

Humm inspiration? Maybe?

[@shannarafryer3111]

I can barely see at all and I'm investing a lot if time watching videos like these

[@theroadtocosplayandcomicco5840]

You kidding I CAN'T READ PATTERNS at all

[@icarusbinns3156]

I just repair torn seams in stuffed animals... Ever repaired a Beanie Boo bird beak? Those darned eyes!!!

[@rowenawragg3903]

My first ever tailoring project was a frock coat for my brother who was 6'4" with a 48"chest. I got a book from the library and draughted the pattern, which was also a first for me. I used black wool suiting and black brocade for the pocket flaps etc. Fitting required a lot of standing on a stool as I am only 5' I was very proud of the end result and the fact that when he wore it he got asked for the name of the tailor who made it. I made a waistcoat out of the black brocade, I had more problems getting it to fit than I had with the whole coat. The instructions sort of assumed you knew what you were doing. I love how yours turned out, it looks amazing on you. I do envey you having the Garment District. There is nothing like that where I live in Yorkshire in the UK 🇬🇧 I can't wait to see the full Lady Sherlock in all its glory. Sorry for the rambling post but I get carried away. P. S. The Internet had not been invented when I made it. No lovely people like you to watch on KZbin Regards Rowena 🇬🇧

[@designaddiction8164]

Ladies waistcoat kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZKxfJWJpr5oqJo

[@todorokisfavouriteobject9109]

That’s awesome! I decided to try make a waistcoat that has a hood on it. I love hoods and I’m practicing making one with patterned fabric that i wouldn’t wear usually.

[@SaffronKoysha]

Hiii. :). I know this is quite a long shot, however, do you happen to remember which book you picked up?

[@rowenawragg3903]

@@SaffronKoysha I should still have the photocopy. I will look it out in the morning and get back to you.

[@SaffronKoysha]

@@rowenawragg3903 That would be amazing! Thank you so much! 🤗

[@Chibihugs]

This waistcoat is so awesome. Every one should have one, if not more. I certainly will need one soon. Also that blouse with the angled lace is gorgeous. It's so cool to see this project coming together. 💙

[@courtneycherry113]

Sorry i read your comment awhile ago and i can happily say i made a matching skirt and short waist coat because of this video and your comment ❤ (but i used a sewing machine and a printed pattern lol)

[@scarletpimpernelagain9124]

Courtney Cherry good for you, I hope they look fab!🙂👏👏🌹✌🏻🇬🇧

[@sayuriando3379]

I think it's easier to make a waistcoat yourself than to find one in a shop

[@anniee4370]

Courtney Cherry ooh which pattern?

[@TheLitleElf]

this is awsome! Is there a video on the blouse? I can't seem to find it :(

[@cprogrck]

Omg I love that quote. "There is no such thing as truth in this murky and uncertain business of history."

[@spewilicious]

I would have loved to see how you managed the mock up. I really appreciate when you show how you work to figure out things you don't know (i.e. "flailing"). I find it very reassuring when artists and craftsmen show where they've struggled and made mistakes. I thought for a long time that people who were artistically or creatively successful were always that way, and finding out that the people I admire struggle, fail, and try again is infinitely encouraging. It tells me that even if I'm not producing what I want at the level I want, if I keep trying, I will. So please please feel free to include difficult fittings, progress you are uncertain of, and decisions that go wrong. Those parts are just as helpful as the parts that are tidy and successful.

[@Trekkifulshay]

I always love the juxtaposition of the historical dress with the high rise buildings in the background.

[@MossyMozart]

@Trekkifulshay - And seeing her in her Edwardian clothing, holding a camera and tripod.

[@picassomanu185]

Gosh darn it, you and Watson are going to rock CoCo! Let me think… Ah, yes! "The case of the two seamstresses."

[@nomdeplume2213]

👍👍

[@victoriaj.9055]

Read this as “you and Watson are going Rococo...” which is a thing I now need to happen.

[@picassomanu185]

@@victoriaj.9055 I do agree wholeheartedly!

[@DAYBROK3]

Heck I though “rock co co” might have something to do with Channel, for a half a second.

[@luminariel3765]

I've got another for you: Where Silver Needles Lie

[@auroraatkins3053]

me. every time I watch your videos: oh this is so cool I wanna learn how to sew all my crochet projects: *glares knives into my soul*

[@ar_tseg653]

Same here XD

[@ZimVader-0017]

Wow, I found a long lost twin! A half finished granny shawl has been glaring hatefully at me for a while now.

[@brittany45]

Same but with knitting...although I am down to two unfinished projects.

[@JNPrettyOnTop]

LOL this is totally me as well

[@grittykitty50]

I starting knitting a scarf for my boyfriend. I got bored, finished quite a bit shorter than it was supposed to be and he wore it like an ascot.

[@purpleheart3000]

My sister asked if I could make her a waistcoat for her Halloween costume. She arrived at home today and leaves on Sunday. Having drafted the pattern from her measurements today, I now have two and a half days to correct a mock up, buy and cut fabric, and sew this thing. Wish me luck, friends, I need all the help I can get. If I survive, I'll reply. If not, assume I passed out from exhaustion and hid in my corner of shame forever 😅

[@purpleheart3000]

I survived. Barely. Don't be like me and attempt new patterns in one day, take your time if possible.

[@ichigomomomyia5701]

I am a simple woman i see Bernadette post and i drop everything to watch i love the lady Sherlock series ❤️ They inspire me to one day sew a Victorian outfit myself

[@aerolb]

Great work and that fabric is perfect! The padding and the boning really give it the ideal silhouette. I agree that a small pocket or two, either inside or outside would be an excellent idea.

[@nerdygurlrulez]

This may seem silly but I love rewatching Lady Sherlock bc the logic-centric guesswork that Bernadette has to do lets her training & experience rlly shine through plus I also just love reimagining a classic character

[@patronusstag]

Didn't know a brown waistcoat could look so incredibly gorgeous.

[@pheart2381]

It wasnt unheard of to add a halfmoon pocket on the outside of the garment,under the bust for a watch. Ive seen photos with them.

[@erinh5470]

"There may or may not have been witchcraft involved" I'm dead. You are too adorable.

[@picassomanu185]

Oh I just found the BEST one: "A study in tweed" *Me proud* ;)

[@pay1370]

That waistcoat fits you so beautifully! Victorian tailoring sure was something else

[@berkleypearl2363]

Every time one of your videos comes out I get really inspired. Like I’m going to go online, find these books that you use, draft my own patterns, make a bunch of mockups, and then make my own Victorian garments. For real. I’m seriously considering it for Marry Poppins this December. I’m so excited about it that I took my work shirts, which were men’s button down blouses, completely disassembled them and put them back together to fit my curves and short shoulders. It’s too much fun

[@estelledesigns]

Lady Sherlock is coming along nicely! And CoCo is just around the corner! 🙃Exciting times! 😄

[@michelleross9782]

Bernadette, have you ever considered apprenticing with a tailor? Maybe apprenticing just long enough to learn more on how to make some of the more complicated pieces. I would think in NYC there would be a tailor who was taught more historic methods by family (oldest tailoring shop in NYC?)

[@Rhaifha]

Oooh, and then vlog all of it, haha!

[@ianmoseley9910]

I was under the impression she went to Fashion College?

[@michelleross9782]

@@ianmoseley9910 tailoring is specifically different from fashion design per that video she had with that British tailor.

[@MorganDonner]

YAAASS! So excited to see this in person at Costume College! 😍

[@elisabetfinlayson8539]

So I am now throughly convinced that you are indeed a mind reader. I love the check fabric that you have used, it is so pretty, and also colourful, without being too much.

[@KatFink]

What a splendid idea for a first tailoring project! I've always been so intimidated by tailoring, but this makes it seem accessible to a home sewist like me. The effect of skirt and matching waistcoat is very lovely.

[@lindafredtrauffer8175]

“Non-linear nonsenses!” Delightful!

[@vampcess5147]

I think every could agree when i say, we would like to see your failures as well as the correct work. It will help people who have not a clue what they are doing :)

[@MISSDEEDEVINE1]

Ms. Banner. You are absolutely amazing. I adore your channel and your workmanship. I am blown away by your eye for detail and your recreation and love of historical pieces. Please keep up the good work. Thank you so much for another great video. Have a wonderful blessed day and a wonderful blessed weekend

[@Lic021]

I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that the 'mens' buttoning design was so (right-handed) men could more easily dress themselves, rather than having a servant help them, which is what women tended to have to do? So unless you have a servant squirrelled away somewhere too, accidentally doing it the 'mens' way will make things a lot easier for you in the long run

[@Lic021]

also yes this waistcoat is so beautiful! I'm getting very anne lister vibes from the blending of masculine and feminine elements (I'm assuming you've seen Gentleman Jack? if not, you absolutely MUST, the whole intro is a montage of Anne getting dressed and it's so fantastic from a historical costuming perspective)

[@brookesayewich9582]

I had that realization when I worked for a university and they got uniforms for us and the front is a button up. It felt so awkward and took me twice as long to put on the damn shirt. I (not realizing) asked my coworkers who were all guys if they found it awkward to put them on. All of them said no. I have learned since then

[@Lic021]

Brooke Sayewich luckily I grew up wearing a lot of my older brother’s hand-me-downs, so I’m used to switching up the way things button all the time, the one thing that still gets me sometimes is zips on zip-up hoodies though

[@katospegelaere2700]

Isn't it also a remnant of swordwork?so that when the sword was drawn you didn't get stuck?

[@LixiaWinter]

This is beautiful! Makes me wanna drop all my projects and make a Victorian waistcoat, but I will stay strong

[@xsyara8717]

So, there I am , printed out all of the 106 pages of Keystones and leaning over the first chapter. That is such a cool system of drafting patterns with all these squares and points to construct. Thank you for giving me the knowledge that this book exists! Since there are a Lady Sherock and a Lady Watson I might just dive in and do a Lady Moriarty ;) Every hero needs a villain, right...? Still, all this hand stitching of yours just makes me being more aware of my impatience - but! - with this second lockdown and all I really need to keep my fingers busy doing somthing real.

[@dianeshelton9592]

Hi, How beautiful it’s suits you so well and your patience is amazing. Bernadette my grannie had that sewing machine except foot treadle. From far far back in my memory, when her sewing machine sounded, “dry “ like your machine does in this video she used to de fluff and apply sewing machine oil. I remember doing it with her and your machine noise awakened a memory. This was probably in the late 1970 ‘s so I could ge entirely wrong. I regret when she died not having the room to keep her machine, it was a happy part of my childhood and teens and a great bonding episode. My granny and mother come to mind every time I sew and grandfather traveled miles from his chair , having been invalided from the Great War, with travel books from the library. I found myself on the sleeper train from Venice to Paris last year with my husband, but there was a third presence in that carriage of the memories of my grandfather and his travel books. Thank you for awakening some very happy memories this morning ❤️

[@bailey9947]

New Valentine's Day card: I'm FELLING for you

[@cindyc3183]

“There may or may not have been witchcraft involved.” Well, it DID involve pure magic!

[@Philmosk1]

Love the pipe at the end. Sherlock might have gone with a calabash, but the point was made.

[@lyndaevans1132]

I have been sewing since I was 5, and am fearless when it comes to complicated patterns--I love the process of making things r, but I have NEVER considered drafting my own pattern from scratch! You are so impressive! I'm always glad when your videos appear, :)

[@roxiepoe9586]

The process involves my whole brain. The outcome dazzles. Thank you! (I especially like that you show us the actual sewing.)

[@elainebye9090]

One of my favorites, so far. Clear, close views; helpful and amusing narration, glimpses of real angst and frustration finishing with satisying success. Such a lovely vest!

[@lisamoya2534]

What pleasant company for a Saturday cup of tea!

[@copper2470]

okay so - i know this video was a while ago and i believe i watched it when or around the time it came out. only now am i finally acting on my want to make a waistcoat of my own, following the same keystone guide that is in this video. i have never attempted to make an 1800s garment, yet i am yeeting myself into the abyss of drafting and such (yey) this video and all other videos on this channel are amazing inspiration for me, as i don't usually sew without a pattern or relatively easy steps, but this is helping me to go (way) out of my comfort zone and figure this out :)

[@Yarndragonvideos]

There is something to say to well tailored clothes on women or even men that just strike awe in me. I got tears in my eye by the sheer beauty of the process to end result. Phenomenal as always!💕

[@zazadem7729]

C’est tellement chic et gracieux !!! Bravo Bernadette 👍🏻🥰

[@keaton11477]

I find this process fascinating. I love watching and learning. I love how the old has been meshed in with the present so seamlessly.

[@DipityS]

It’s lovely, and, to my eye, has an air of a well made item. Thank you for sharing the journey. May I also add that your blouse is utterly devine!

[@mildlyboring1667]

I can't wait to see lady Sherlock all finished!

[@fumblingwiththimbles2609]

I love this! While I appreciate that they are not a tutorials your videos have helped me learn so much about sewing by hand and how to work with altering/drafting patterns. I have no one around me who does historical sewing, you have been an immense help in my learning process!

[@br6480]

I love how your waistcoat came out and your shirt underneath it is absolutely gorgeous.

[@Lammstrellicon]

I've watched enough of your videos now that I've accidentally learned how to hand sew a button hole! I'm absolutely delighted by this

[@susanbrouwer3471]

Lol accidentally sewing button holes!

[@blowitoutyourcunt7675]

Been looking for a waistcoat pattern (at keystone as well!), lovely! I actually downloaded the entire book, had it printed and Bound for myself, only 22$! Can't wait to see this construction event to comment further! Cheers mate!

[@kimlightfoot]

And good day to you Miss Banner! love your videos.

[@triciabarr4620]

I love your videos! I used to make some of my clothes from around 8th grade into my early twenties. I really enjoy watching you as it reminds me of the joy I had and miss. I no longer have a sewing machine so that is the reason I stopped. I should look into purchasing one and picking up sewing again. I remember making up patterns just on the fly to fit my body. I had gained a lot of weight at that time and I wasn't crazy about the options available in the stores for my size as well back then (80's) the price for large clothing wasn't proportional to regular size clothing. So making patterns for mostly pants for myself was very enjoyable. The great thing about doing it is that you can make them exactly how you want them. I still love a very tapered leg. I'm a tomboy so dresses and skirts aren't my preference but I absolutely love watching you make them. I fully agree with you about the quality and durability of hand made clothing. I hate the way they make the majority of clothing today..it's just disposable really. Have you ever done modeling or thought about it. Everything that you model for your site looks amazing on you. The way everything fits and hangs on you is stunning. Please keep up your videos. I found you via the British heritage site with Mrs.Crocumbe who I adore watching as well. I found her via Jas Townsend and sons...I love history, many different periods and countries.

[@deannammcc7789]

I could listen to you talk all day. Your voice is so soothing.

[@vikkizoo1]

I love it! Isn’t it fantastic when a project starts to really come together? ...looking forward to the coat!

[@estelledesigns]

Ikr! I just wanna get to that stage already in my current project where I see things starting to come together 😕It's taking forever haha! What are you currently working on?

[@vikkizoo1]

@@estelledesigns I am finishing up my degree, so I have a stack of vintage dress patterns partnered with their respective fabrics. It is driving The Hubs mad because I am using them as incentive to finish up my coursework by leaving it all within easy view. ;)

[@estelledesigns]

@@vikkizoo1 Good luck with your degree! Just think about all the things you can make once your finished with study!!

[@vikkizoo1]

@@estelledesigns Thanks. I'm gutting it out. I need to finish two courses by midnight Wednesday then the final two 7/27; just two days before my 52nd birthday. :)

[@estelledesigns]

@@vikkizoo1 Wishing you all the best! Have a fabulous birthday as well!

[@sublimnalphish7232]

you could still put a watch pocket on the waist coat. since it is put on above all the other seams and panels. i love the look and very much the lace on the blouse. beautiful.

[@DJ-uw9uq]

My grandmother was a Taylor in Germany. She died around 1950 and was in her early 50s. She went to trade school when she was 14. She made suits and dresses, drafted patterns and hand sewn most likely using these techniques. Enjoy watching these videos.

[@bobbibuttons8730]

Bernadette has got to be one of the most beautiful sewists that I’ve ever seen. I so love watching her and rewatching.

[@lindsey6975]

Always love to watch you sew and interpret. There are channels that give such an air of confidence of “this is the way it is done” while your style is much more flowing through thoughts on how it could have been done as well as the sources and thinking it took to get to a decision without being annoyingly indecisive. It gives me the confidence to try things out and experiment in my own sewing without beating myself up for not having all the answers. Thank you for sharing with us :)

[@dianavoermans]

I love this continuing story about different garments to make a whole look. Keep them coming 😁

[@gabilopez7856]

I love that I was looking up victorian references for a costume design project I'm doing on "The Importance of Being Earnest" and this... this is what pops up! Quality stuff right here. LOVE IT!

[@kurpitsa2343]

I love it. This is the first time ever that I'm tempted to make an Instagram account. And a waistcoat 😄

[@sylviedabee]

Omg, that waistcoat is absolutely GORGEOUS. Now I wish that I had the patience and most importantly the talent to sew bc I want an 1890's outfit 😭😭

[@goodgirl140]

I’ve been taking sewing lessons over the past month because of your work, and I can now understand (kinda) your videos!

[@miriamparker2156]

I call your pattern making guide taking you out around your fist to get to your thumb. I watch totorials all the time and when i attempt i try to go for the straight line to the finish. I tried to explain it to my friend and she looked at me funny. So just cause the book says do it this way its ok to make it your way. What ever gets your finished project finished and your happy with it. Love your posts i watch for them every saterday wee hour mornings her in Califorina.

[@charmaynefb]

My Gran was a tailor (not a seamstress, she made high quality bespoke menswear) in England. She taught me to trim back the canvas and hand stitch the canvas to the dart. In one of your other vjdeos, you mentioned Victorian telling stitch or hemming being done towards the body and that being opposite to how you were taught. My Gran taught me to be towards my body. Once you get used to it, it really is so much faster, especially when dealing with metres of hemming. I was also taught the pin-wriggle method for evening-out gathering and pinning your thread to apply tension as you work. It hadn't ever occurred to me that these were particularly historic techniques that she was passing down. I just adopted them as general sewing practices. She would have learned in the 1920s in Kent, England. I learned in the 1970s.

[@bookmouse2719]

The "cross stitch" you mentioned was called by my sewing teacher in high school (long time ago) as the "cat stitch" . I never forgot as I'm very fond of cats.

[@vintagevibesinmoderntimes3783]

Omg this makes me so happy, I may now have to go make one (with watch pocket)

[@designdoctor247]

Enjoyed every second! Lady Sherlock you are amazing!

[@patapon828]

I've literally watched this 3 times over the course of a few hours, it's so satisfying to watch and it makes me want to hop out of the house, buy some fabric and start a new sewing adventure!

[@daleannharsh8295]

Beautiful! ….Love the sound of your sewing machine at work.

[@kentario1610]

I lost my mind at the end, I was considering making one when seeing the title but by the end I am certain I will make one. Thanks to you I have an appreciation for wools and tweeds and so many new words for fabric!

[@jenniferfloyd2314]

What a charming and smart outfit! It flatters your shape so well. I too harbor a deep affection for Sherlock Holmes and can't wait to see the complete outfit.

[@maryblaylock6545]

Brain power! Sexy!

[@-_Halo_-]

This is the most beautiful and gorgeous outfit I have ever seen

[@patbowman6723]

I had no doubt from the start of this video that you would create a beautiful, well done garment. Nice job.

[@thebassclarinetist]

These videos are part of my Saturday morning routine and I love it! Thank you!

[@i_am_amberleaf6708]

I have absolutely fallen in love with this channel. Much gratitude to this lady Sherlock series! It has brought me great entertainment and enlightenment while I laid in bed today. As it pours rain out, and as I menstrual cramp away. I really appreciate your content, it simply makes want to dress in and create vintage clothing!

[@amandamassyn7227]

Thank you for showing the padding over the front shoulders, such a good trick. I'll be using this in my sewing. 🌸

[@percy6532]

Ahhh waistcoats are my absolute favorite. I will definitely be trying this.

[@MsJelske]

I am madly in love with this project and am watching all your videos as soon as they are posted. Can't wait for the end result!! xxx

[@legendarymudkip2096]

i always knew i wanted a waistcoat, but now i know i want 20 in different colors and patterns

[@blubistheword]

I might be late to the project but boy am I glad it's here for me to watch.

[@cup_o_sew4556]

Ahhh the waist coat is definitely my favourite thing you have made In this series!

[@user-pc8du2ol3b]

I was literally just wondering when you would post a video when this popped up in my notifications. What a lovely surprise!

[@elisabethhogman7760]

I love watching your videos. This waistcoat turned out amazing, and I especially appreciate you talking about adjusting the pattern to your own body's shape and history. I think we try to minimize our "flaws" to the point where we ignore them completely, and end up with uncomfortable and/or ill fitting clothes.

[@HaphazardPeach]

You continue to be one of my favorite people to listen to. I love your particular skill of interwoven snark and propriety.

[@itsmeganade3899]

I love your work! I think you're so talented, and you really inspire me to create! I was wondering, however, if you would consider doing more Victorian-era projects. I really like that era, and I thought it would be cool if you did a costume or something that was from that time period. Again, love your work, and am looking forward to more videos. :)

[@lilliearizona]

I love the talent and art you've displayed here. Beautiful

[@acekidatelier]

A week ago my mum gifted me just enough wool to make a walking skirt in a very nice shade of green, but now I'm so, so tempted to make a waistcoat instead. Every time you put out a video I think "now I want to try that too!"

[@austinbrown709]

Well done! The waistcoat looks distinguished and beautiful! Thanks so much for letting us look over your shoulder during your projects - it’s an inspiration to see what happy curiosity and genuine interest can create.

[@jennivamp5]

I love this so much! 😍 I think this might be my favourite lady sherlock piece so far! (although I haven't seen the outcome of the coat yet which I'm sure is going to be spectacular!) There is just something so satisfying about a well tailored garment 😁 It's just stunning and I love it.

[@wogglywiggler]

It's beautiful! I love the fabric, it looks really nice.

[@michellecornum5856]

Dearest Bernadette: Witchcraft is an essential tool of sewing. It can be found on the list between Tailor's chalk and Wrist pincushion. See also: rosary beads, prayer shawl and slip proof prayer rug to put the sewing machine pedal on.