DragBoss Garage:

This is the bottom end of the Jack Roush Performance Engineering , Ford 351 Cleveland. This is a dry sump engine. The block is an XE block, Pillow block. Great improved bulk heads, same Cleveland oiling system, hence the dry sump, probably more external wet sump. The crank is from 1978, a Ford Xe type crank, XH 10089 , on counterweight, also has the $A symbol on different one. Rods not sure, Bolts say Carr 32 SPS , Carrillo? Get apart at Bob Beach's next...
DragBoss Garage "Where Your always seeing and learning something new."

[@Rob-m9s]

As a Chevy guy, the Cleveland was a legendary engine that garnered much respect from all car guys during that era . . .

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Thanks Chevy guy. Appreciate you watching and enjoying the vid

[@Loveitdownunder]

@@DragBoss351Cleveland Yep,We had them in the XY (1971) Aussie Falcon. Use to work on them daily. Best time in Australia ( 77 now).

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

@Loveitdownunder cool to hear, the good days mate. 🇦🇺

[@danielwilson6665]

Love the close up look at such a significant piece of Roush Cleveland history. Looking forward to more 🏁

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

This will have to be the next build for Bob and myself. Very cool stuff for sure

[@tbirdracer460]

Piece of history for sure!

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

It sure is. Crazy, time capsule

[@symoncabral8609]

It will be interesting to see more

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Stay tuned. Thanks

[@gearbanger57]

Nice piece.

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Definitely some rare parts here Dave.

[@brucekultgen132]

Good deal!!

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Right on

[@abcullens2328]

Hey Tim, WOW This is Great!, seeing the inside of a vintage Jack Roush Race engine, Totally Cool! In a future video maybe you can give us the numbers on the block and crankshaft, I wonder if you can determine the brand of pistons and rods used in it.

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Thanks AC, the block is an XE Cleveland block from 1982. Number on crank is shown. It is a rare crank. XH 10089 and $S. Rods are think are Carrillo. Carr on rod bolt. Pistons ?

[@abcullens2328]

@@DragBoss351Cleveland DBG, That's the kind of equipment I wished I could have been able to use back in my racing days. (I'm Jealous) But the rule book and my pocket book said No Way. Can't wait to find out what some of the Cam Spec's are, bore & stroke also, hope you make a video about it. Super Cool 👍 AC

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

@abcullens2328 yes sure AC, the thing is definitely a time capsule. So tempted to clean and get fired up. But better go through and eval. Then Dyno test

[@abcullens2328]

@@DragBoss351ClevelandTim, I would also be temped to just fire it up, But an evaluation would be the wise thing to do, then DYNO that baby and lets see what kind of vintage H/P it can make! I'm betting it's over 500 H/P. Maybe you can have a viewer challenge to see who can guess the correct H/P number. Super Cool Stuff.

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

@abcullens2328 hate to miss something stupid. Did that once already. Ya pull her down and inspect and maybe just reassemble and dyno.

[@johnnyhonda7576]

I have one of his too. XE!!!

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

There it is, good deal man

[@randepayne6966]

Looks like a well preserved piece of history there Tim. Any thoughts on why Jack didn’t use all studs for the main caps?

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Not sure. I have seen some of his previous bottom ends and none has studs. I don’t think they are that popular at that time. Some feel less cap walk with bolts.

[@randepayne6966]

@@DragBoss351Cleveland Maybe he used studs on the inners for more accurate torquing and adding rigidity to the block and bolts on the outers to help with cap walk? 🤷🏽 We should ask him… 😂

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

@randepayne6966 yes, let’s have on for a live chat. Be really out of this world 🌎

[@randepayne6966]

@@DragBoss351Cleveland that would be so amazing! He’s not getting any younger.

[@shaneschratt5123]

The outermost bolts are grade 8 though…

[@markcrockford9679]

looks in nice codition Tim , 4 bolt as well very nice, so thats a steel crank as well ? did you get the 4ma crank over there ? they were a high nodular iron crank we got in Aus . next best to a steel crank!

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Mark this is a forged steel crank. H10089, like an xe part. Yes this is a killer piece. 👍

[@markcrockford9679]

@DragBoss351Cleveland Stout piece ! rare as hens teeth over here, good to see a proper enthusiast is going to use these parts , they can become collectors items when they are used up ! Keep doing what you do to you Tim and the family ! it's a good channel

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

@markcrockford9679 thanks Mark, yes sir rare as rare can be. Can’t wait to see what we can make with hp. Need to dyno, this baby. Yes love my family helping me in DBG, Stay tuned.

[@timmiller260]

I thinking red paint was call ge gipanall

[@christophergriffin8344]

Glyptal doesn't turn loose once it's baked on 🤘

[@markcrockford9679]

Glyptol ! all the rage in the day ! good for oil drain back but personally I think it makes the oil a bit hotter , good stuff if you can deal with the heat !

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Sort of Tim

[@danielwilson6665]

@@timmiller260 I remember reading about a test done back in the day where the oil drain back properties of Glyptal coating was tested compared to uncoated surfaces in a cast iron block. The oil did drain back slightly faster on the coated surface. The test was done at room temperature using conventional engine oil. The results probably would have been slightly different using synthetic oil at normal operating temperatures. Used cast iron blocks and heads are known to have metallic particles and other contaminants embedded into the surface regardless of how meticulous the cleaning process is prior to assembly. This familiar red coating is also used as a means of sealing in and preventing any embedded particulate matter from being released into the oil after the part is exposed to heat and vibration when returned to service again in a performance engine. The custom machinist that prepared my good Cleveland iron block for racing also used Glyptal to coat the lifter valley as a standard part of the process. Some people are against using it because it could crack and come loose causing serious damage to the engine. If proper surface preparation and product application is done, the epoxy base should harden and become solidly adhered to the metal. I can only hope that’s a fact at this point ! Only time will tell 🤷‍♂️

[@1fordfan1]

SOXX AND MARTIN drag race engine.

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Jack Roush circle track

[@billfioretti3013]

History from the "Cat in the hat" exposed.

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Man she sure is pretty. And very serious. Thanks Jack

[@teddysgunshop2318]

Is that yours

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Yes it is.

[@culbycars]

Very nice

[@DragBoss351Cleveland]

Thanks , appreciated