Drayton training - Motorised Valve fault finding

Drayton Training Manager James guides you through the testing of Drayton actuator heads to diagnose issues.
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[@user-dd5zy8vc4j]

I had the same problem as other comments with the heating constantly on. This was found to be because the 2 tiny tabs holding the micro switch had broken off. They are not robust enough to cope with the many heat cycles they will experience. I 3D printed a little spacer to push up against the back of the micro switch. Next problem I have had is the posts for the ends of the tension springs have broken (on 2 valves!) which is apparently a common problem. Had to glue (and strengthen) this up with some toughened epoxy and a screw. The design of the mounting plate needs to be looked at to beef up these two weak areas. I could buy a replacement head for £59 or an entire new valve for £56 (work that one out!) but it would probably break again in 2 years time. Other than that a nice valve.

[@Phiyedough]

Thanks for this. I have an MA1 that I just use as a simple diverter valve. I'm in Croatia but ordered the valve from UK (before Brexit) It works if I connect mains direct to the motor but not if I connect live to the white + grey and neutral to the blue. From what you say I don't need the pcb so I could just run new wiring direct to the motor. One point that you didn't cover is the manual mid position selection. That has worked OK so far but I have always been worried that the motor might be unable to reset that button in addition to the normal loads.

[@Draytonheating]

We need a little bit more information, please could you contact our customer services at 0333 6000 622 or [e-mail]

[@SkillBuilder]

given that the synchron motor doesn't burn out why do they fail? Good video you did well with it

[@Draytonheating]

If the value doesn't move when energised it could be a problem with the motor or the value body could be seized. There are also micro switches inside that can stick if you draw to much current through them.

[@TheSimonakay]

what would likely draw too much current through?@@Draytonheating

[@jayseabie215]

They just get gunged up. The small amount of lubrication in them can harden or evaporate over time.

[@williamcheung5942]

Hi there, I have a mid position valve actuator and I'm only getting hot water no CH. I notice that the actuator doesn't turn to the CH position. I replaced the motor and it doesn't seem to help. I can still manually turn the CH on using the manual lever. I'm just wondering what can go wrong. Are the diode, resistors or microswitches prone to failures. Thank you for your help

[@Draytonheating]

For the actuator to move all the way over to the central heating position the grey wire needs to be live when there is no call for hot water. Our customer service team can guide you through expected voltages if you ring them when you're in front of the system - 0333 6000 622

[@zippo101]

hi there..... I've got a slight problem with my 3 mid position actuator.... its stuck on heating, even when the heating is off.... soon as I knock the power off.... it returns to the water position.... soon as I slightly touch it ( with power back on) , it moves on its own to heating position, and again the central heating is off ? only thing I can think of, is the micro switches have failed.... any chance I could get some info on said switches? simply solder some news ones on? Thanks in advance :)

[@Draytonheating]

Our technical support have a fault finding routine that they can guide you though to try and identify what the issue is. Please give then a ring when you are in front of the insulation - 0333 6000 622

[@Horizon301.]

Did you sort this?

[@SteeeveO]

I have a problem with my Drayton unit with the heating being on when it shouldn't - so I assumed it was just a sticking valve. Removed the motorised head & found that the brass valve was easily moved, so it looks like the motor itself is faulty, however the plastic manual lever seems to be locked solid. Any thoughts before I call the engineer as I don't really want to start dismantling the motor. Thanks.

[@Draytonheating]

Sorry to hear you are having issues. If you contact our customer service team they will be able to assist you - 0333 6000 622

[@hasmitachauhan5276]

I have two za5 for dual zone but zone 2 doesnt work independently, the lever has to be to the left to heat up zone 2. Zone 1 level is to the right and both resting to a. What could be the issue?

[@Draytonheating]

Have a chat with our customer service team who can assist you - 0333 6000 622

[@KevL3452]

Hi, great video and really useful, its great a manufacturer is willing to share this info. I have an MA1, 3 port mid position valve which for the most part seems to work ok but it has recently started "clicking" whilst in the M position when the HW is on and the tank thermostat is calling for heat, CH is off. The valve does move between W M H so I don`t think its seized, I would value your opinion before replacing anything, thanks

[@Draytonheating]

First thing to try is to remove the activator from the valve body by pressing in the button on the opposite side of the position indicator. Then try calling for HW, both, CH only ect and see if it drives to the correct position when not on the body. If this works, it suggests that the valve body is seized however, the fact that you are hearing clicking sounds like something is failing within the activator itself.

[@KevL3452]

Thanks for the info but I decided to replace the actuator (at great cost) just to resolve the problem as the valve was held (not seized fortunately) in the mid position so both HW and heating were running at same time when only the hot water was required. Having followed the testing procedure in the video to confirm the fault on the bench I took the unit apart and found the top micro-switch orange button was stuck into the switch, a slight press released it. After reassembly and test it works fine, also the orange wire max voltages I found were around at most 27vAC not mains level but I agree, test with caution. Just to note that when the valve moves from "W" through "M" to "H" there should be 2 distinct clicks on the MA1, if only one suspect a stuck micro-switch, easy fix. Hope this is helpful to others

[@TCSC47]

At 14:37 , the video freezes until 16:06 whilst audio continues. There is a lot of verbal description which is difficult to follow because I am expecting the video to show me something.

[@Draytonheating]

Maybe say thanks for the feedback and we'll look to get it remade

[@johnbyrne2623]

Would it affect the pump, ie, my pump won't shut off.

[@Draytonheating]

Depends where the pump is fed from. If the pump is connected to the orange wire of the motorised valve the answer is yes. If the pump is connected to the boiler, it is possible the boiler is causing the pump to run all the time.

[@ZedsDeadOK]

Do you know the answer to this problem which I think is more electrical than a problem with the MA1, In the morning I have the hot water timed to come on, half hour later I have the heating timed to come on and remain on for the rest of the day. I've recently noticed that when the hot water goes off the indicator on the actuator remains in the mid position and the boiler fails to fire to keep the heating on, If I switch the mains off to the whole system the actuator then moves to the H position and because the timer is still calling for heating the boiler then fires up, is the fault coming from the boiler or timer?

[@Draytonheating]

Have a chat with our customer services team who will be able to run through some fault finding routines - 033 6000 622

[@NivagSwerdna]

Is a "DRAYTON 27651SX 3 PORT MID-POSITION VALVE ACTUATOR" a suitable replacement for an old MA1? i.e. is the valve assembly geometry unchanged?

[@Draytonheating]

Yes, 27651SX is the Screwfix part number for the MA1 actuator only. So long as the old actuator has the push button to detach from the body this will fit.

[@ptibbitts-nu9jr]

My MA1 valve appears to have failed. The boiler fires up until the hot water is up to temperature, the cylinder stat then actuates the valve to motor to heating cycle - so far so good! But when the heating cycle switches the valve off it stops the valve from working the next cycle. On inspection, it appears the cam is not activating the micro switches, full movement of the cam does not even contact the grey or white micro switch tabs. What has happened here? - the black plastic cam and the little microswitch buttons are nowhere near each other !! The microswitches seem too far away from the cam, the switch buttons don't appear damaged or broken off, could the black cam profile he ave worn? Help appreciated!

[@Draytonheating]

Chat with our customer services and they can help you run a test on the actuator - 0333 6000 622.

[@hippopotamus86]

I have a mid position valve (marked W M H), It goes over to H for heating, hits the switch and fires up the boiler/pump. But, when heating is turned off, it doesn't move back to W or M, sometimes the boiler remains on, sometimes it doesn't. I changed the actuator, same issue. But if there's a call for hot water, only then does it move back over. Is this correct? I thought if there's no call for heating, it should get pulled back over to hot water / mid by the springs.

[@Draytonheating]

What you described is the value working as intended. The valve will remain the last called for position till it's told to go elsewhere. If heating was the last call, the value will remain the H position but the boiler should stop firing if there is no demand. The value won't move until water or both are called for.

[@Horizon301.]

@@Draytonheating is there anything else that can cause this issue with heating not always turning off and leaving boiler on?

[@Draytonheating]

It could be an internal boiler issue that keep sit running but to establish this we would need to be measuring the voltage on the white wire of the valve under the fault condition.

[@Black_Isle]

Can these leak from the head or is it just that the valve has a leak and the water is passing through the head taking the easy route?

[@Draytonheating]

The activators are detachable from the body so water shouldn't naturally have access to the activator however, if you get a leak pass the spindle, the system press could force water into the activator.

[@chriswestwood2681]

Hello. I have the ZA5/679-2 valve. My problem is that i run the hot water on constant and the heating on timed, but the radiators are heating up. Obviously the valve is not closing correctly. It moves freely between heating and hot water, when called for by the controller. The valve moves freely by hand with the head removed. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Many thanks

[@Draytonheating]

It sounds like there may be some debris within the valve body that is preventing the paddle from sealing against the valve seat. Sometimes running your heating and varying the pump speed is enough to dislodge this. Otherwise, you may need to consider flushing the circuit

[@desmondberriman4755]

Can I ask a question please?

[@Draytonheating]

Hi, yes what is your question?