Drilling Holes on Angled and Rounded Surfaces

If you have ever needed to drill a hole on an angled or round surface and the drill keeps walking off location, you should watch this video.

[@shaunofthedead6389]

It's nice to see someone sharing good tips, a lot of engineers like to keep these to themselves. I've seen over the years the skill level of young engineers drop dramatically due to cnc machining, it seems like all they're getting is just a green button apprenticeship. Keep up the good work! 👍

[@BM-xc9sq]

I'm more or less a self taught machinist. I don't do anything very precision but make lots of non-critical stuff. I have learned a lot from your videos. What I really like is that you don't spend 20 minutes talking about useless stuff. You are right to the point and show how it's done. Thank you so much for sharing you vast knowledge of machining.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@timk5256]

I had to do this in 3/4 S/S nuts for a anti tamper wire. Orders were for 1,000. Came in from the side with a 3/16 4f center cut @ 850-900rpm then set up with the drill bit. Gota love an air vice!

[@heavymetalweld805]

Your drill chatters less than my wife, so that's a blessing to hear.

[@TheSn1per]

I think if you turn on Closed captions starts @ 3:10. you will find its not rattling. It is "MUSIC". ahh the sweet sounds of a drill press! just sayin :)

[@ScottGMerritt]

Thanks again, Joe. I always look forward to your videos and watch them first despite having about 50 subscriptions to other channels. Although being new to this, you are one of the best.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much. I appreciate the compliment.

[@MrCrispinEnterprises]

Good Tip, thats how I do it. Can I request a video? One area I am very uneducated in is the naming of different metals. I often hear people on KZbin refer to '4140' or '316' or in this video '17.4'. Can you give any explanation as to the where the numbers are derived from and how you would go about choosing what grade to use for a component. At home I just use what ever I can get hold of and at work we don't use any common materials so ive never had to study it. Cheers

[@joepie221]

I'll look into this one Crispin. Good suggestion. Coming from a medical background, I can say the 17-x series stainless steels are heat treatable. I was surprised at that one. 17-4 cuts great and heat treats easily. Ends up at around 44C rockwell.

[@beepcode]

OK well done. This is one of the first techniques I learned as an apprentice journeyman 45 years ago. Make a flat before you drill. In my case it was clearance drilling and counter boring for 4-40 socket head screws on the edge of .75 diameter copper bar clamp. 3/16 dia. end mill (as flat and c'bore), center drill, 1/8 clearance drill. de-burr, done. Point, you can use non-center cutting end mill if you can enter the workpiece from the side, X or Y axis rather than Z axis as shown. in the video'

[@dougbaker6779]

Hey Joe if you were close enough I'd fix your mill for you. You guys that take the time to share info like this are certainly earning some help from those of us who are able to help. Thanks for your efforts, many people are glad to see you share your experience. Thanks

[@joepie221]

I finally tore the head down last week. I'll post a video of the fix.

[@michaeljechon6139]

Joe...Love your videos. I'm 38 years old with 10 years of machining experience. Unfortunately, I started backwards in the machining industry on the CNC mill and lathe machines. Only as recently as this year did I transition to manual machining as a conscious career choice. Essentially, I want to become a better machinist. The amount of respect and awe I have for those trailblazers who plied their craft on Bridgeport mills and Cincinnati lathes is immeasurable (not even calipers can measure it ;) ) Its one thing to push a bunch of buttons and rely on a programmer to plot out your work. From a business owner's standpoint, I'm sure CNC helps to increase productivity and reduce error. However, it's an entirely different level of production when you are forced to do the thinking for yourself and understand why you are implementing certain processes. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@henryfaulkner6051]

I so enjoy your videos...I am a retired Aircraft Propeller Blade Technition...I have worked on many different types of Aircraft Propeller, from C130 and P3 Orion, Cessna Aircraft, Pipers, and crop dusters, and the list goes on....I Am fascinated by Your precision and downright incredible ability to make things work...The knocking sound in Your milling machine, is like a set screw has backed out of a rotating shaft and is hitting a stationary metal structure..? I am considering purchasing a small (used) lathe, and making some fun things...there is a video of a gyroscope and a few other things I am looking at also....Henry...keep up the wonderful Work You are doing...

[@JamesAveyInTheShop]

I think my Bridgeport was even louder. I rebuilt the top end last month. It's probably just a bushing repair. There's plastic bushings on the motor pulley ( on variable speed machines) and the front variable speed pulley. But on my machine nearly every bearing felt like it had sand in it as well, so I was glad I did the whole top end - just a couple hundred dollars in parts, I got a great understanding of how the machine works and the nearly silent running machine was the reward.

[@joepie221]

Time is my enemy. I'd love to do that. That machine hasn't been quiet for some time.

[@PeteBrubaker]

I also second Jame's recommendation. It could just be the plastic bushing the spindle drive pulley. I've heard that's a common source of noise in older machines.

[@joepie221]

It is, but getting the motor off is a BITCH

[@jimolsen8632]

Joe, I use this trick often but I would make sure and give a caution. Not everyone out there has a Milling Machine and my try this on a Drill Press. It's not a good idea to do this in a Drill Press as the Endmill will often walk, reach the edge of the hole, dig in and break off. You used a Center Drill after the Endmill as one of your steps. For Drill Press users, try the same thing except skip the Endmill and use the Center Drill as step one. You can go deep enough with the Center Drill if you use frequent Peck cycles to let the captured chips fly out of the short Flutes on a Center Drill. If you go deep enough, you will have a full circle to start your cut with a Drill and there is the starter hole created by the Center Drill to keep everything centered up.

[@joepie221]

You will have to be very patient. The centerdrill 2 flute design will have a greater tendency to walk than an end mill. Its the angled tip of the centerdrill and angled surface that will increase deflection potential.

[@witektaaham6297]

This was good lesson for me. Thank you and greetings from Poland.

[@stevespra1]

Good job Joe. Why would you want to go slower with the center drill than the end mill considering surface fpm at the center drill?

[@Allthetacosaremine]

Granted im not a machinist and im not around a knee mill alot. i took a machine tools class in college and all 4 knee mills they had sounded like that so i dont know who has a quiet mill but its not common and its nothing to be sorry for lets face it machining is not a quiet task.

[@joepie221]

Plastic rear spline bearings have since been replaced. The front could use a new set now.

[@TalRohan]

cool stuff, thanks for sharing this. can I ask though why will and end mill wreck a drill chuck? Cheers oh and what was the knocking?

[@derekfriedrichs]

Great video, I like the tip, Id probably try to finish the whole with the end mill, that should be interesting. As far as the noise goes, I got the same one, and I finally fixed it! Ear plugs...take care and keep making vids!

[@VenturaSewerInspections]

Over 5 years after you posted this but want to say thank you for the lessons and I always learn something from your videos.

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@bikefarmtaiwan1800]

More great info- who the hell puts a thumbs down on this?Evidently they have no idea just how valuable all this stuff is even if you already know a lot of it- small side comments that you make are often quite illuminating- thanks again Joe. Just brilliant

[@RumpLeINtiLINsKinnIN]

videos get better and better. Great detail. i really like how u focus on oddball things or things that arent usually talked about but happen all the time in the shop. Maybe you can do a video on using endmills in the lathe in the future? Maybe knurling or reaming? I really liked the steady rest video. I always seem to have problems with chatter / endmill cutting way oversize. Sadly, our shop doesnt have the proper tooling for the job a lot of the time and I have to improvise. Thanks for the videos Joe Pi

[@papahajek5383]

Just to go a little further to accommodate an odd sized hole you can trig out in infinite number of offsets from the hole center in order to achieve a near perfect match to the drill size required (if necessary). 3 steps per quadrant will usually suffice if the end mill is close to the desired hole diameter. Thanks, by the way, for giving me an outlet for what has become useless information now that I have retired.

[@infooror]

What we need is a sort of Peace Corp where retired guys can fan out and share their tons of information with younger guys wanting to learn. It is a shame the amount of hard won information that is lost every day in the world as guys exit the work force, no matter how well deserved.

[@TXShelbyman]

I don't think it will ever be useless information. We hobbyist are always in need of tips from you old masters. Any tip you guys can give is priceless information to pass on to the next generation of machinist.

[@TonyLeach-airguntech]

Simple well explained solutions, great channel, thanks Joe ;-)

[@sappy4happy448]

What would you do if you had an odd size hole like say 17/64" or 9/32" for which you don't have an end mill of the same diameter? Would you be forced to use a 5/16" end mill to do the 'footprint' and then switch to the desired drill bit or is there another technique? BTW I really enjoy that you use manual machines to do your videos instead of relying on NC/CNC machines. Knowing how to use manual machinery provides a solid foundation for a person to move to computerized machines. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@joepie221]

Use the next size up if the part allows.

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Hey Joe, I saw a neat video you might like. "I make an 8-ball out of solid stainless steel and brass" by "My Mechanics". He used a boring bar, an angle plate, and a rotary table to make a perfect sphere.

[@joepie221]

I saw that. He did a hell of a job.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Joe, Nice holes... My mill also needs some maintenance work in the head... :( Cheers, Pierre

[@joepie221]

Hello Pierre. I may dig into it when the dust settles. Video material.

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Here it is Feb 2023, and I am going back 5 yrs to refresh my ole mind as to a round part that needs a 11/64 pass through hole, but at a 2deg angle. Joe knowledge an teaching is better than looking up how-too's I'm my Machinists Handbook any day! Heck, he's still teaching us in 2023 and I owe 98% as a hobbyist from Joe. Keep on Keeping on friend! Bear.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for stopping by Bear.

[@MakinSumthinFromNuthin]

Any tips on chamfering the eliptical hole equally all the way around ?

[@joepie221]

Thats a nagging problem. There is a tool for that, but I've never tried it. Its called something like an elipto bur.

[@MakinSumthinFromNuthin]

Found it... Elipto Master...for $200-300 I think I will skip that step :)

[@zumbazumba1]

Good sir let me say first you are bible of knowledge,keep doing videos like that-little tips and tricks and some common knowledge maybe not so avalable to everyone ! my question to you is gow do you drill a 90° hole in a pipe without a dividing table ?I cant go trough with a drill since i will encounter second curve,if i move it to do it from top side it wont be 90° anymore,and my starting drill or endmill are not long enough to hit the second wall of pipe to make flat spot.Any idea?

[@EVguru]

Hi Joe, Great video as usual. Just one comment...... Since I stopped using centre drills for anything other than drilling holes in which I'm going to use a centre, I've never had the tip break on one. Spotting drills all the way!

[@joepie221]

What ever works, stick with it.

[@alanmony1582]

Hi Joe, great vid as per usual. I'm not trained as, nor do I work as a machinist. I call myself a "machinist as required", haha! I'm wondering how you calculate positioning the end mill so the center of the hole is where you want it. I can figure it out on the round bar by touching of on the side with an edge finder and moving to the correct spot (hopefully called out on the drawing). But how is it done on a flat piece set at an angle if the hole has to be positioned to line up with a mating hole? As the angle changes this mystery calculation also changes. Hope that is clear as mud!

[@joepie221]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYSUYWdpgLygY68 This is one way. A tooling ball gets the job done too.

[@alanmony1582]

Thanx Joe, I knew you'd know how. I just got a new pair of glasses today. Your ear pieces look really short to me, what's up with that? Are they comfortable that way?

[@joepie221]

They are. They fit my head like a glove.

[@airgunsfreedom700ssp3]

I’m a new subscriber and very new at machining. A hobby in my retirement. Love your way of thinking and vast experience. I own a very low end King mill, belt drive with stacked pully,s. On one occasion while changing speeds, I encountered the exact same rattle. Turned out I over tightened the belts. After the tension on the belts was adjusted, the rattle was gone. Who know, maybe something to check. Thanks for the videos.

[@joepie221]

If your mill has one of those sliding levers in the front of the head up top for back gear, sometimes the bushing that rides in the inclined slot can wear down and cause the gears to rub inside. If you have that type, check that bushing.

[@alfredclemency4952]

im not a machinist but i have a mill and I have a very specific need to drill an angled hole. Its for gas port in a virgin rifle barrel. This video was very helpful Thanks!

[@Filmpilot]

Alfred Clemency make sure you take deburring into consideration.

[@aldimmett]

Thanks Joe. I'm glad that I subscribed to your channel. As a newby I've learned quite a few things from you. I'm glad that you are willing to share your knowledge with me.

[@joepie221]

I had many quality guys help me along the way. Just paying it back.

[@RicktheRecorder]

A rising table is also “a wonderful thing” but lots of mills don’t have them. How does the technique adapt to that?

[@joepie221]

Walk it down with the quill stop/ A little at a time.

[@Mr.X_Dj_Arrow]

Hi! I must first say that i love your channel and all the things that I can learn from your experience !!! But now for your quill, Have you fix it ? I don't think it's a bearing problems but maybe something simple, sounds like something really repetitive and going faster than the speed of the drill, something knocking, in the gear box maybe? Sounds like a cover of something being knocked every turn, or a key that move from it slot.... anyway, I hope I give you something useful and I hope that you will find it ! ✌

[@joepie221]

I found it a while ago Milling Machine Motor Removal and Drive Pulley Repair HD

[@rogercrier]

Joe, I don't know where to ask this, so here goes :- I am being asked at work to machine an awkward part. It is an aluminium CNC machined car gearchange paddle from a steering wheel, and it needs a tiny bit of cosmetic machining to change a - sign to a + sign. They want me to stick it onto a flat surface with body filler to hold it in the correct attitude and then clamp the flat surface to the bed. Then manually machine the alteration on our shop Bridgeport clone. Is this normal practice? Sounds like a shortcut to get out of a hole to me rather than machine another one. Would you describe this as standard practice, as I have not seen this clamping system mentioned anywhere!

[@joepie221]

You would be surprised at how many different ways I have seen and personally held a part. Epoxy in a baggie, a sand bag....you name it. As long as the cutter load doesn't out shine the setup, it should work. Id personally let the body filler harden up first, and probably suggest a perimeter ring of some sort so it doesn't crack when you clamp down the paddle. Take small cuts and good luck.

[@rogercrier]

Thanks for the prompt answer and reassurance. I will use common sense and small cuts, and shed loads of well mixed filler.

[@johngunn7087]

Roger Crier- Jewelers, Gunsmiths, Bladesmiths and Engravers of these small, random-shaped items grip them in their vices using a product called Thermo Loc. According to the MSDS, Thermo Loc is a blend of proprietary thermoplastics distributed by Glendo Corp and available for sale on their website www.grs.com. Thermo Loc is produced in round sticks approximately 0.25" in diameter & approximately 8" in length. It softens to a pliable "putty when heated in a microwave oven to between 140-158*F. Once shaped around the object, the margins of the Thermo Loc and be fashioned to create edges that can be firmly gripped in a vise after the thermoplastic cools to a hardened state at room temp. This should offer you a very flexible solution for work-holding on small/irregular parts that need to be machined. Cheers- John Visalia, CA

[@webtoedman]

That sounds like a modern take on the watchmakers wax chuck. Sometimes they would use shellac to stick tiny components to a faceplate too.

[@chuckhembree6101]

Man I like your videos, but I absolutely hate seeing you use air to blow away chips. I’ve used a vacuum and or a brush just about all my machining life. It keeps foreign material out of machine ways. When I buy a new machine, two or three years later it still looks new even after heavy use.

[@joepie221]

Air is less invasive than liquid.

[@Helmetfires]

Curious how you would find the center (x axis) to drill the hole in the right spot on the angled piece?? Great videos! 221

[@joepie221]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYSUYWdpgLygY68 I hope this helps.

[@AJMansfield1]

So then how would you tap an angled hole like this? Especially for a small tap, getting it started on-axis and cutting the first angled section seems like it would be a real challenge.

[@joepie221]

Make the starting counter bore the size of the tap major diameter. The tap will then start on a flat surface with full perimeter contact.

[@ROBRENZ]

Good stuff Joe! Congratulations on passing 10k subs. ATB, Robin

[@joepie221]

Thanks Robin. I am flattered by the support. I enjoy the contact with the world. Pretty cool.

[@scottburrous2375]

Joe Pieczynsk: This is one of those, "I thought everyone knew that" subjects. However, there might be some that will experience an 'ah ha' moment and benefit from this video. I'm not so proud that I can't admit I've learned or have had my memory jogged from some of your videos.

[@johndonlan5956]

Joe I would have done it the same way you did.... With one variation. Even if I were using a face cutting end Mill, I would plunge cut only down to the point of where I had a full diameter flat..... And then I would have walked it out to the side in order to ensure that the surface the center drill would encounter would be dead flat. I'm used to working to aircraft tolerances and I would have to minimize any chance at the center drill would walk even a couple of thousands off center if it encountered a convex surface left by a simple end Mill plunge. Also, to minimize the drill walking as it broke through the backside I might have pre-drilled a 1/8" pilot hole all the way through, and I would make sure that the final sized drill would have a split point..... So that the linear pressure on the drill would be reduced. This would help to minimize it from walking as it broke through the other side. All in all, you've made a great video here!

[@garypaisley]

The auto-generated closed captions referred to the mill rattle as 1) Music, 2) Applause Nice video, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

[@alangriff1]

So much to learn but Im loving your vids. What cutting fluid is your no. 1 "go to"....and could an amateur use a brken twist drill...squared off at the end as a mill cutter? ( please don't throw that big wrench at me) 😂😂

[@jaygee9249]

Hi Joe I am fitter and machinist by trade here in Australia and the tricks you have shown and the clear and understandable way present them are really great.l am 63 and have worked in large machine shops, toolrooms and general maintenance and have never seen some these great techniques in the other videos, Fantastic work Joe, keep it coming, kind regards Jay

[@waneyedgeworkshop159]

Interesting technique Joe. How would you suggest actually locating the hole in the angled piece of stock? With the round stock an edge finder can be used and the position of the hole set using the DRO. Say you wanted to drill a hole 2" in from the end of the angled stock, how would you proceed?

[@joepie221]

I did a video on that a while back. Check the library for the the same title. locating the hole in the angled piece of stock

[@peteferguson7024]

Joe, Thanks for the video, another new tool in the box. I think my mill is a sister to yours... she's a rattler too! :) Take Care

[@actorzone856]

wouldn't it be easier to have a guide tube over the drill which holds the drill in alignment, similar to a dowel guide for drilling holes in wood, the noise sounds like the fan of the motor is rubbing on the cowling.

[@joepie221]

That would be a good way to do it if you were in the field trying to do this and not setup on a machine.

[@PurityVendetta]

I know this is a 4 year old video but I needed to make sure I'm on the right track with drilling and tapping some holes into a few round parts for a race bike I'm building. Yet again you sorted it Joe. I need to counterbore to recess the heads of some cap screws into the parts so this technique is just the job. Oh, and my Bridgeport head rattles like crazy too lol. Thanks again from the UK.

[@timblack33]

Best videos on the web. Ever thought about selling some of those advanced innovations shirts on your site? Would happily rep in NC!

[@davesalzer3220]

Nuthin wrong with a little rattle. She works just fine.

[@fredschmidt3148]

Joe Pie, thanks for sharing. That technique convinced me. Keep making these vids please. I refer friends to your vids because you demonstrate and explain well.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@felgate11]

A SLOT DRILL ( It's like an End Mill but only has 2 flutes & will plunge in 1 hit & cheaper toobuy?) would work just as well.

[@beachcomberbob3496]

Hi Joe. Please excuse the dumb question, but is there any reason why you couldn't do the whole job with the end-mill, and save on the tool changes? I would have thought that it would break through cleaner on the back side than the drill bit would.

[@beachcomberbob3496]

I only asked an hour ago, so give the man a chance ;-) He has a day job after all.

[@williamsavory5274]

I would say it's down to cost of end mill vs twist drill and length of tool available also maybe

[@joepie221]

There is no reason you couldn't finish the hole with an end mill, but plunging an end mill is historically not known to give a precision hole if its the first tool to cut. Following a drilled hole with an end mill to true up the hole is not unusual.

[@martinwhittaker9860]

Joe why didn’t you pilot drill with a slightly smaller drill first ? Still a great video as usual,Martin u.k.

[@pahrumpauto]

I just got my grizzly 16x31 combo last week setting up and truing up this week love your videos learning a lot from your videos thanks

[@terrygeiger7510]

Excellent video. I am learning lots...

[@jorgeg.d.5983]

Thank´s for sharing your experience. I´m a beginer chinistma , well almost, just 5 years in the trade. that noise on your mill may be the bearings. on another subject, I see you´ve been in Nayarit Mexico at "el Gordo" , I live in Mexico at a 4 hour drive to Nayarit. Saludos desde Mexico

[@joepie221]

If you go there, bring your own bottle opener. Great seafood. Thanks for the comment.

[@cannonball666]

"I hear you knockin" Dave Edmunds

[@mikekrening7327]

Hey Joe, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! thanks Mike

[@billythebake]

Hey Joe, I just caught this video today; figure you've got that noisy milling machine sorted by now... but if you've got any other maintenance/repairs needed, I'm moving to central Texas this year and would be happy to give a hand in appreciation for the fine content you keep putting up

[@rtkville]

Thanks Joe, every time I watch you I learn something good, thank you!

[@kevinschlossser7858]

Question, how about a piece of round stock placed at a 45° angle like you did with the bar stock?

[@andybarnes00]

So it's easy if you remember the first step is spend a few £k on a mill!

[@joepie221]

Naturally.

[@FISHBREATHH]

Please excuse my lack of knowledge, you mentioned its a bad idea to stick an end mill into a chuck, can you tell me why that's a bad idea. I get that you would loose some accuracy but what else would be the problem. Thank you

[@brucematthews6417]

End mills have hardened shanks which will dull the jaws of a drill chuck. And because you've got hard against hard the mills tend to spin in the jaws. The damage done lessens the chuck's ability to hold drill bits with sufficient locking force.

[@joepie221]

True....and most drill press chucks are pressed onto a tapered shaft intended for direct axial load. Any side load could cause the taper to release.

[@williamwhite1112]

Hello Joe and Ro Efa, One final thing.A pair of stethoscopes as used by car mechanics will quickly and accurately locate exactly where your machine noises are coming from without a lot if stripping and examining. Brilliant things and very cheap too.

[@joepie221]

Back in the day, we would stick the tip of a screwdriver against the suspect surface and grip the handle with our thumb over the end. Press that thumb knuckle against your ear and you have an instant stethoscope. Try it.

[@williamwhite1112]

I suppose saying 'a PAIR of stethoscopes' has blown my cover as a doctor. Your videos are very educating for the experienced as well as the novice. They are presented so professionally they remind me of my time at night school. Great stuff. I think the screwdriver stethoscope was phased out in the seventies when we had long hair ;-).

[@Byzmax]

I Still do that now. Great videos Joe. Very informative.

[@TheJamestat2]

Just started in machining 5 years ago when I met my best dude Randal. He's a tool and die maker for 40 odd years. He has taught me loads of things you could never learn in school! I have been watching your channel for a while now and trying your techniques in the shop. Some he already knows and has taught me such as this OP. And some I even taught him. I was real proud of that you can bet! We do not have any cnc machines. Everything is manual with DROs as our only electronics. Most everything we do is custom one off parts or repairs and sometimes small production runs of say up to 100 parts. Thanks for putting your time and knowledge out there for those who have this passion to make and create. Who would otherwise not have the opportunity to meet someone such as I have to help them learn. You are really giving back. Not only to the community but to the world! LOL! Hook 'em Horns! Formerly Temple/Belton, TX now Fort Wayne, IN.

[@joepie221]

Some day you will be that dude. Learn all you can, while you can, then pass it on. Thanks for the comment.

[@frrapp2366]

what if you dont have a powered lift on your drill just on old jobber drill press with a hand crank and no way to move it without it moving sideways around the drills center ?

[@haydenverstin7326]

another way is using a flat bottom stub drill tho one i was using has some special geometry to it

[@mrsaturdaynightspecial3055]

The knocking is the result of a loose nut behind the wheel 😉

[@outsidescrewball]

Nice tip.....the best message to me was "take your time" "take your time".....as a young man working as a mechanic it was beat into me beat flat rate.....I am always going TOO FAST.......

[@joepie221]

Do it nice, or do it twice. The way of the universe. Good to hear from you Chuck.

[@brettsilva7317]

Can you elaborate on not using a end mill in a drill chuck? I didn’t know that would be an issue. I bought some end mills so I could drill a flat bottom hole in copper. Would the end mill work in a cordless drill if the drill was in the screw/clutch mode?

[@joepie221]

Normally chucks are seated on tapered arbors intended for direct inline axial loads. End mills produce side loads and may unlock the taper. Chucks also don't offer the support an end mills requires so the chatter or dancing around will be amplified, not to mention the unintended load on the chuck jaws. Its just not a good practice.

[@timenlow443]

I know about the side load on drill chucks and the end mill being used in them, but even if your "drilling" as you did here with vertually no side loading on the chuck or mill, you still dont abvise it?

[@joepie221]

@@timenlow443 Although there is no linear side load, there is an impact side load from the interrupted cut on the angled surface. Its a problem waiting to happen for taper lock chucks.

[@MiscerVids]

I've been thinking about this the past couple days. Glad this video popped up

[@allenhunt3070]

Joe, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video!

[@Iceking007]

Sounds like you might have a bearing problem. Check the motor all pulley bushings, the gears in the box, check the drive gear backlash. After that you need to troubleshoot more, unless you see something obvious.

[@Mmmmmk247]

Iceking007 this video is 3 years old 🤦‍♂️

[@Iceking007]

Correct, and?

[@Mmmmmk247]

@@Iceking007 that was pretty self explanatory

[@drjwilber]

when never heard of such techniques - advantage of internet . Mech eng is multi-national

[@davidaarons2488]

Hey Joe, thanks. I just have a Grizzly mini mill and cant raise up the table, I have a ER 20 setup and can use the fine adjustment instead of drill press style operation, any tips or just peck at it? Don't know about your mill but sounds like some excess backlash of gears in drive, and it sounds like $$$, good luck. God Bless Ya, Dave

[@PaulSteMarie]

Getting the hole at an angle is the easy part-getting it positioned precisely is hard. A demo of using tooling balls would be great. I have a rough idea of how to use them, but haven't seen an actual demo.

[@joepie221]

I'll put that on the list.

[@joepie221]

I do have videos of how to find the hole using pins and stops. take a look.

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

Have you seen Stefan Gotteswinter's take on corner location? Vaguely reminiscent of Pacman.

[@federicomoulins3027]

Mr. Joe Pieczynski, many thanks for sharing your knowledge through his instructive and well explained videos. Besides dedication for the quality of its editions. Again, Thank you very much and greetings from Argentina.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for your comment and support.

[@bbumpy4523]

I know this was published almost 2 years ago, but have you figured out & fixed the mill noise yet? My draw bar has a slight bend in it & it makes quite the knocking noise, more with some collets than others. Pull the draw bar out and turn on the mill. If the noise goes away you've found yourself a cheap fix with zero down time. Here's hoping it's that easy.

[@joepie221]

These machines have plastic shims around the drive splines. When they go, it knocks.

[@oddjobbobb]

Am I correct in thinking that if you needed a “land,” or maybe it’s a “shoulder,” for the head of a fastener to rest on could you use an appropriately sized end mill to create the “land” and then drill the hole in the center of that area?

[@joepie221]

Yes.

[@robertburns2415]

I think the bushings in the vari-head are worn out. To see the disassembly and repair watch "The Machinery Repair Shop" channel on KZbin entitled Bridgeport Mill Variable Speed Drive (2J) Disassembly part 1 through to the end of the set. I hope this helps.

[@roughrooster4750]

I will support Martin Vernon's comment concerning the spline and spline socket rattling. Probably caused by a slightly bent spline shaft. This will cause the knocking your mill is making. Good video and well explained.

[@PaulSteMarie]

I'm surprised you're using a lathe center drill and not a 120° or 140° carbide spotting drill. I'd expect the 17-4 to really chew up the corners of the twist drill when going into a 60° spot.

[@garysumlin8355]

I'm on the way now to fix that noisy son of a b****. Lol

[@cdefilippo7]

you need new bearings , what else ? carl good show:

[@kappullen]

gosh, who'd thought of that?

[@joepie221]

I am sure many have, but I was asked to shoot it.

[@touchgo7281]

Great tip!! I have used the end mill trick. But using the knee to control the feed is priceless.. P.S. I had a drill press making same noise, ended up the set screw on motor pulley backed off allowing it to rattle on the key way...

[@leebatt7964]

Joe, maybe you mentioned this and I missed it but why couldn’t you side mill into the angled surface to create the step or pocket for the drill bit. I am new to machining, just got an import lathe and mill and I’m fascinated by machining. You and TOT are amazing resources. Thanks!

[@joepie221]

That would absolutely work, but that type of feature has to be acceptable for the part. Creating a shelf leaves a safer perimeter than a plunge cut.

[@ZenMinus]

Good advice as usual :-) A couple of notes: I don't see the need to "peck drill" with an end mill in this situation. The end mill clears its own chips because of the angle of approach and subsequent clearance around one side. If reach and clearance permits and the drill bit and the end mill are the same diameter, there is no (real) need to centre drill as a "pocket" created by milling deeper, will guide the drill bit. If you don't have a center cutting end mill and the job allows for a "partial slot", an ordinary end mill can be used and feed in from the side. I don't see why there is a case for chatter that the table must be raised? Is the potential chatter caused by the extending of the quill? If so "pinching" the quill locking mechanism should prevent chatter.

[@joepie221]

I'll address your comments one by one. 1. Regardless of how hard you may believe carbide to be, it does flex. Especially when only loaded on one side. By pecking, you will advance the depth of the hole, and then re-establish the center on the next pass by cutting away minimal material left by the off center load. 2. The geometry left behind by the end mill is not cylindrical per say. Its round, but vertically elliptical. If the drill you use has any desire to walk upon contact, one of the flutes could catch and snap the drill. The center drill assures this won't happen. 3. When an end mill contacts the side of a part at an angle, the contact geometry is more of a sine wave if you could visualize that, because the cutter contact goes from full diameter to a square profile between the cutter tips. This is what causes the bounce since the length between the cutter tips is shorter than the cutter radius. This is why raising the table work so well. The mass is not influenced by the rapid changes in load. Pinching the quill would help, but not nearly as effective as raising the table.

[@ZenMinus]

Joe Pieczynski thank you for the clarification, all valid points. I appreciate your answers 👌

[@spencercurtis5626]

Quit being lazy and replace those bearings! Still like the advice! Keep it up, an old dog can still learn a new tricks! Just giving you a hard time! 😉

[@joepie221]

Lazy isn't something I'm called very often. Thanks for keeping me inline.

[@drd1924]

haha...I dropped it cuz it was "heavy"

[@oddjobbobb]

Another question, sorry, but would you use the end mill if you were drilling straight down the center of the round bar?

[@joepie221]

Either that or a center drill that left a full diameter feature.

[@johntenhave1]

Thank you Joe, another clever solution to a problem often encountered!

[@cal30m1]

What would you do different if the hole in your round stock needs to break thru the edge?

[@johntenhave1]

Thanks Joe, another most useful and obvious (after the fact) posting.

[@rickbowen6929]

Thanks again Joe. This helped out greatly with some Sten gun builds and tube holes that are required.

[@paulsotheron710]

Hi Joe, another great informative vid. I don’t know how old it is but have you fixed that noisy drilling machine yet? I had one with similar rattle and difficult to say but the one I was using had a loose cooling fan on the motor.

[@joepie221]

I replaced the rear spline bushings, but the front is more involved.

[@hakunamatataadventurebus5944]

How does a drill chuck get ruined by putting a mill bit in it?

[@joepie221]

Drill chucks are not designed for side load. Neither is the morse taper adapter most of them are mounted to.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Agreed. In fact, the only time it pays to put side load on a drill chuck by side milling is if you need to get a stuck chuck off the taper arbor. Some chucks have a thru hole and you can use a press and a dowel pin, but otherwise (unless you want to bore a thru hole) the milling trick is worth a try.

[@tensixtythreevideo]

Very nice! Thank You

[@donnowakowski4224]

Thanks, Joe. I’m not a machinist, just a wannabe. I tried this on my Bridgeport mill (old round ram with no nod feature). It worked perfectly! Thanks for teaching. Much appreciated.

[@paulhawkins2380]

that's all well when you are in the shop ! how would you do the some on a job in situ