Drop In Hotend Upgrade For Creality K1 & K1 Max Printers (Micro Swiss FlowTech™)

[@Liberty4Ever]

I wish manufacturer's assembly and repair videos were this clear and informative. Great step-by-step instructions and clear well focused video with the best camera angles to convey the information. The Micro-Swiss hotend would be a great update for the crazy low Black Friday pricing that Creality is currently running on the K1 Max.

[@Hassla]

A comparison to the TriangleLabs CHCB-OT would be cool.

[@mxskelly]

Your tutorial sections are really great! The attention to detail you put into each step (what size screws, how to remove a connector or how to remove the shroud, etc...) is really great. It's nice when people don't just assume "oh that's obvious I don't need to mention it".

[@martonlerant5672]

He forgot to mention 1 crucial detail. Before removing the connector of the heater and thermistor from the backside, it is a GREAT idea to pry off the glue securing the connectors. As the connectors are less securely attached to the metal spikes soldered to the board, than how strong the glue can hold.em togehter, so you can yank the plastic socket clean off the board if you are not careful. P.s.: On the upside the metal spikes ofc. still remain solderex to the board, so you can replug the socket, it will just look damn ugly, and be damn scary.

[@ModBotArmy]

I dont know that this glue can be removed. When hot glue is used some IPA will cause it to come right off but the glue use in this case is not that. Doing the back and fourth wiggle with the connector was not too difficult to get it to break the seal in the glue. With how small the connectors are I almost feel it could be as easy to damage trying to remove the glue with something sharp.

[@ModBotArmy]

I appreciate it. I really try to cover as much as I can to prevent accidents from happening. Of course some will think it is too much and there will be some items I maybe miss but I definitely consider as many aspects as possible when putting something like this together.

[@Jerrie-Lenore]

Excellent installation video! This is well spoken and a good pacing. Your walkthrough and MicroSwiss drop in design will help save someone a tool head for sure! Thank you for working with your sponsors to bring us quality content.

[@soggynode]

Nice content as always. A good tool to have for any 3d printer electronics disassembly is a pair of tweezers called dressing or thumb forceps. I've also seen them listed as rat tooth tweezers. They look like a regular pair of tweezers except they have hooked teeth on the tips, one tooth on one side and two teeth on the other. They make grabbing and pulling on those small JST connectors a lot easier and safer. They're less than $7 on AMZ.

[@tsbohc]

Thank you, random stranger. You may have just solved a problem I didn't know I had.

[@ModBotArmy]

First time hearing about these thank you. I will get a pair in.

[@ModBotArmy]

I didn’t find the exact ones but it ordered the i fixit pair that has a 45 degree at the end that comes to a fine point. Will give them a go.

[@SaturdayMorningProps]

Just got one of these, and you made the installation even simpler and worry free than it already is

[@Airborntx]

nice video man , at last we are on an era of just plug and play our 3d printers and with minor upgrades . im full of custom builds and im looking very interested in these new 3d printers from creality, the upcoming flsun , and quidi ... good time for 3d printing .

[@joel89039]

I've put a few hundred print hours through my k1 max now and I absolutely love it. It has been printing polymax polycarbonate functional parts for me like it's nothing! Perfect first layers and superb dimensional accuracy. Haven't even considered and upgrades to it yet

[@kevin.3D]

that's awesome, good to hear. I have a K1 at home and I'm loving it also but I have only used PLA. I guess I should get to work using some other filaments. Are you still using a .4 nozzle? I switched to .6 and saw no quality difference at all. I like it a lot.

[@rlbrlb5109]

Is that .4 nozzle and what do you use for setting for the polymax i.e speed and temp for nozzle and bed

[@joel89039]

@@rlbrlb5109 40mm/s 270c 105c. 112% extrusion. Stock nozzle. No bed glue

[@sethalbert1239]

If you think it prints good now, put the micro swiss in and you will have perfection.

[@rawdog7220]

Great guide, but you need to put some thermal paste on that copper insert before installing it into the heatsink. Without thermal paste there will be a huge loss of efficiency in the heat transfer between fhe hot end and the heatsink. This will lead to poor cooling control, and the risk of melting fillament before it enters the heating zone of the hot end. This can cause retraction issues, especially in softer fillaments.

[@vdm7776]

Thanks for the video. Very intresting. I was a little surprised, that CHC heater connected by XH2.54 socet. The maximum current for CHC is about 5Amps, but the socet is for 2Amps only. Sorry for my English. :)

[@patrikengstrom103]

This was a very good and easy to understand explenation how to intall the Micro Swiss Hotend. I have considered if to buy or not, since I was a bit worried about if it should be diffucult to install. Now I'm sure that I will buy this. GREAT JOB!!!

[@Gregatron13]

I just got one! I had a clog in my throat so I figured I might as well just upgrade to the hot end that would prevent it from happening again.

[@sethalbert1239]

This is an essential upgrade for the K1 series. The plated nozzle lays down layers perfectly. So much so I was able to stop using glue sticks. All of the little annoying defects in my prints are gone. It was like a night and day difference. My prints are literally perfect.

[@giinnoo08]

You recommend it? I'm getting my k1max in one week. Should I order this and install asap? Or see if it's needed

[@raymondmcgreal2635]

@@giinnoo08I’d also like to know if people really recommend this. I’m currently having random under extrusion and it’s destroying my prints. I’m considering this as an upgrade but would like to know if others have had an under extrusion issue?

[@giinnoo08]

no problems here. @@raymondmcgreal2635

[@mackinsvii9022]

This hotend is garbage. Get a Triangle Labs CHCB-OT with a Z+ nozzle. They're way better.

[@PolishedHobby]

Note: pull wires holding connector, NOT cable, because you will destroy cable over time

[@ModBotArmy]

In a lot of these cases it is so small that it is not possible. That is why I recommend at least getting as close to it as possible. Minimize the strain on the wires.

[@timoteobernal536]

@@ModBotArmyyou can typically grab the included flat head screw driver and wedge it in the side of the connecters and pry/twist on each side usually will do the trick

[@johnmulligan9299]

I have one of these on my XMas list. I hope I was a good boy this year!

[@patkauther9584]

Good Vid, but I was expecting to see the post-install one-handed nozzle swap, cheers!

[@W4TRI_Ronny]

Well great prints did not start working till I put a MS hot end on the old Ender 3 so I will try this one. K1Max.

[@billstauver5927]

Pretty fun for me Creality sent mine with stripped screws.

[@betafoofoo270]

Great video, thanks for sharing that and showing us how to to change it out. Can I ask what is it about the replacement hotend better than the original stock one?

[@pfabiszewski]

Maybe test this with 0,6mm nozzle and compare :)

[@Tracertravis]

Bought this a couple of weeks ago but still to install it. Have you seen any improvements or backwards printing qualities at all?

[@stickel62]

no thermal paste on the copper insert?

[@ReggieRailSystems]

I Purchased via Amazon a new K1 Max on 22nd July 2024 several prints later (today Aug 1st) it leaked and backed up actually breaking wires and sending a fault. Called Creality service and Amazon received kindly (Run-Around) I Saw your video re Micro Swiss and have used them to replace my old CR6-SE hot-end. So I order one after watching your video this evening. "HOWEVER" I've noticed that the back of the heat sink on my K1 Max, does-not have an Allen screw anywhere. Also, the two vertical screws that hold the heater core in place will not budge. Do you know if Creality Changed the hot end assembly from your unit or is mine an old stock K1 Max via Amazon? If I could send you photos of the rear of the heatsink I would. Thanks, Bob Griffith Winter Haven, FL

[@EMunch-pv7lq]

Dan the Man! Thank you for motioning PID calibration is not necessary with this new hot end... I wuz wondering why MicroSwiss's instructions left that part out... Now I know!

[@ModBotArmy]

It was one of my first questions to them about the install 😂. Glad I included it 👍.

[@GuitarFuYou]

RE removing the cables... cut the goop before you start wiggling - whoever plugged mine in at the factory had a heavy hand with the glue. I actually cracked the JST connector when mine finally came loose. It works, but I'm a little worried it's going to come loose at some point.

[@ChrisZirker]

Same here. VERY difficult to get that plug out and a definitely cracked a chunk of it off. I had to meticulously cut the glue off. Obviously, this is on Creality and not Micro Swiss but it would be helpful for this tip to be in the video...

[@MakerPi_3d_Printer]

Very professional video as always,i like this video

[@justiciaparaespana7236]

I have the TriangleLab CHCB-OT on the K1 and it goes perfect also but I have to remove the nozzle to print with more technical filaments (that's my objective & the reason why I purschased it)... Does the Microswiss to be able to print with CF??? Because if it's true, I will purchase one and leave the other as spare.

[@Kartonoymaciligi]

Excuse me sir i have a problem with normal hot end i ordered a new one and it is leaking filament on all over places is there any solution for this

[@michaelgleason4791]

So wait did it improve print quality?

[@EnergySeeker]

Are you using orcasliser ? How did you setup to send directly to the k1?

[@goldenchallenge2863]

I just got these a week ago and they're already clogged, Sent Micro Swiss an email about it, Hope they can do something cause I paid 120$ with shipping

[@ajciccone88]

Any further issues?

[@MattMorganYouTube]

the instructions say to put thermal paste on the copper thermal adapter before inserting

[@MarkFraserWeather]

How easy is it to swap out the nozzle once this is fitted? I don't fancy having to remove the LIDAR cable every time I want to change the nozzle.

[@czar_]

Thanks for the tutorial but do you have an in depth review of the flowtech kit?

[@fliplmb]

5:13 really, that loose?!? Does screwing in the nozzle tighten things up?

[@PhilShelley-kt2sv]

Were did you get the print for the side filament please ?

[@Braven36]

Understatement on the glue. I broke a peice of the connector trying to get it out

[@neospog]

Well done! But Is there a Hardened Steel Nozzle for K1 (by Microswiss) for reinforced filament?

[@sethalbert1239]

Ordered mine today

[@rustyv6274]

It has its own nozzle? I can’t use a ruby or diamond nozzle correct?

[@adamk4662]

Arnt you supposed to put thermal paste somewhere?

[@ThreeDPrintDesigns]

In the market for another printer for my business. I print only tpu, and im in-between a K1 and Bambu Lab p1p. The extruder on the k1 seems better for tpu, and also upgradeable, but the print quality seems better on the p1p, especially 1st layer.. whats your thoughts?

[@GSJester]

I planned on upgrading at the start, so I have the hotend and an extra 0.6 nozzle. I did ask microswiss if they would have hardened steel nozzles and was told eventually they would have other materials. Right now it is a moot point for me as I await some response from Creality support for a mostly dead K1 Max after it updated itself. Turns on, and that is all. I hope they can provide me with a replacement before the short return window closes. Looks like part of the mainboard died as it will not flash anything and the Ngenix Creality firmware recovery does not do anything.

[@DJ-Hollandica]

always nice to see

[@marlion4664]

Hi everyone:) pid calibration this to 230c or 250c and use creality own silicone guard to make the air flow better. That black silicone just push the air down and yes happy 3d printting:)

[@NavySturmGewehr]

Can a normal volcano nozzle work in the microswiss hot end?

[@hauntycz5191]

Does this effexts the speeds ? And what are the benefits ?

[@glovercarvalho1930]

I was wondering the same. Yes it gets more flow but in the end it doesn't seem to matter when printing. The only benefit I found is that this new nozzle is leak-proof.

[@WouterZtube]

I ran a flow test with the stock hotend with Polymaker Polyterra and it started skipped at 28,5 …

[@LazorzPewPew]

Great video! thanks

[@ptmoy1]

Looks like a specially-designed nozzle just for this hot end. I don't see a harden-steel version on the Micro Swiss website. What do you do for printing abrasive filaments?

[@dasworkshop4967]

It's called the Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle - for FlowTech™, and they are $23.75 each. "Micro Swiss CM2™ Nozzle is an ideal nozzle for all applications. Core of the nozzle is made of high-temperature Copper Chromium Zirconium and plated with an Electroless Nickel Plating. This special alloy retains its strength at much higher temperatures compared to a regular copper alloy. The tip of the nozzle is made of M2 Hardened High Speed Steel and coated with a special nonstick nano coating."

[@andrewryan7686]

Did you adjust any of your sliced settings for this. I installed one (after a nozzle sheered in the original) and have had really bad stringing on every print since. Running orca slicer with the default k1 max profiles. Have tried upping retraction distance, but I don’t know how far to go with it

[@atapene]

Stringing = dial down the heat, possibly flowrate but heat first

[@simplesimon4561]

What about thermal paste between the cooper sleeve and the heat sink?

[@ModBotArmy]

No mention of needing it. It’s a mixed bag as far as printers/hotends that I have running with or without thermal paste.

[@simplesimon4561]

@@ModBotArmyI'd be interested in what they would have to say about why the cooper coupler doesn't need thermal paste if they didnt provide any and don't reference it in their instructions should you get the opportunity to ask

[@awesomusmaximus3766]

Be careful with glued plugs you can pull them off the board

[@brektgaming3176]

Help, the screw that keeps the heatercore in place stripped, what can i do... These screws are so small😢

[@GregOseid]

I thought I had stripped screws when I replaced my original hot end due to breaking the wires trying to remove a filament blob that coated the outside of the hot end. It turns out that some of the material had coated the screws above the hot end and was locking the screws from turning. I saw a suggestion to try holding the tip of a soldering iron to the head of the allen screw for 2.5 minutes then quickly remove the screw with your allen wrench before it has a chance to cool down. That worked easily for me.

[@GregOseid]

Another suggestion is using a 1/16" ball end wrench or hex key in the stripped out hole. It is slightly larger than the 1.5mm hex key. The ball end works a little better since it is oversized the taper helps it fit if the 1/16 hex key wont quite fit.

[@DJProPlusMax]

I saw two other tutorials - no mention of titanium screws there. Is that a new addition?

[@ModBotArmy]

As far as I know it has always been. It just launched so unless they had an immediate revision I am unaware of they should have all had them.

[@xx-qs1ij]

a question - why did u changed hotend to begin with ? is stock K1 Max not that good ?

[@IanTheWoodchuck]

I tried running with the stock hotend for a while. The clogging and leaking I had made a huge mess. Because the nozzle and heatbreak are machined as a single piece, meaning you don't need to worry about heat expansion because there's no gap for filament to leak out of. That's what they mean by "cold nozzle swaps." When you pull the nozzle, the ENTIRE nozzle/heatbreak comes out at once. The input opening goes all the way up and butts up against the output of the extrusion gears, so it's a single channel all the way down to the nozzle aperture.

[@wojbar9238]

does anybody know what is "lifetime" of these new nozzles?

[@Liberty4Ever]

I hate to see every 3D printer manufacturer making their own high flow nozzles for the new faster Klipper printers. Proprietary nozzle designs are not in the customer's best interest. Even worse, many companies offer only a brass 0.4 mm nozzle, even on their larger Max machines where a 0.6 mm would be better for most applications. If the Micro-Swiss hotend allows use of a standard set of quality Micro-Swiss nozzles, that would be worth the upgrade.

[@kimmotoivanen]

Next up: changing long-threaded nozzles with power tools 😅 Is that like SuperVolcano length?

[@ModBotArmy]

Lmao. This is not quite that long but yeah the super volcano may need a power tool 😂

[@kevanamjadi2853]

Can anyone tell me if they were able to print carbon fiber nylon with the .4mm nozzle with this hotend?

[@Racio00]

Is this the same for k1c?

[@SanthyagoGallao]

Can I use the unicorn nozzle with this hotend?

[@IanTheWoodchuck]

No, because they lengthened the nozzle to also act as the heat break, once you perform this upgrade, only FlowTech nozzles will work with this setup.

[@LargeKid]

If i get the flowtech hotend, do i have to use the flowtech nozzles or can i use a diamond tipped one instead?

[@boitmecklyn4995]

unfortunately no. the hot ends are designed differently.

[@IanTheWoodchuck]

You MUST use FlowTech nozzles because this upgrade changes the entire flow channel to the nozzle tip. That said, MicroSwiss DOES make Tool Steel and Diamond nozzles for abrasive and super-abrasive filaments.

[@alexdark6]

does it print carboon with the standard hotend from micro swiss?

[@IanTheWoodchuck]

The standard nozzle with the kit is plated brass. There are more exotic nozzles like the CM2 (Nickel-plated Copper Chromium Zirconium with M2 hardened tool steel tip) and the Diamondback (Polycrystalline Diamond Tip). The CM2's cost is pretty reasonable at about $24/each and CAN do carbon but will wear much faster than the Diamondback ($125/each). I'd stick with the CM2 if I only tinkered with carbon, but if you do any kind of consistent carbon printing, you'll need to pop for a PCD-tipped nozzle, no matter what printer you have.

[@johnnydavila2487]

i just finished dissasembling the hotend and man that glue on the connectors are a huge pain! I have the flowtech in the main right now. wish they had a hardend steel nozzle will need to avoid CF and glow in the dark filaments till they release one. or until triagle labs or someone else makes a compatible nozzle. Honstely the lidar is a waste of hotend space. you might at well remove it as it doesn't do anything yet unless you print from creatlity cloud

[@Engineeringchaos]

Would you recommend it over a bambu lab machine? I have considered them or a voron 2.4. What should I do. I already have two ender 3 pros. Great video have a great day!

[@portmanteau.]

K1 can be had on sale as low as $350. I have 100+ hours fault free, couldn't be happier. I am still interested in Bambu's offerings, but I hear they may pack some of the new A1 tech into the P1, so I'll likely wait for a model refresh.

[@ilyak8333]

Increase the extruder temperature - NO, Buy a new extruder for $65 - YES!

[@skaltura]

for the cost and complexity, that bump in flow is abysmal.

[@zayedseddiiki975]

Did you experience blowout

[@maximilianlindner]

Every single 3D printing channel is releasing paid advertising for this „upgrade“ that is essentially not even a real upgrade and is just overpriced. I say it out loud: this product and their marketing strategy straight sucks

[@ModBotArmy]

Micro Swiss has been making quality upgrades for printers for many many years. Creality launched this printer and already had 2-3 extruder revisions and a hotend revision due to issues. If you want to chance it with the stock hardware thats fine. You may have no issues. Some have experienced leaks and clogs already. $65 for a hotend is mid ranged price wise and less than most others. If you are happy with the stock hotend thats great, but many would rather not chance it. The design on this setup removes the possibility of a heatbreak leak.

[@maximilianlindner]

@@ModBotArmy Honestly, I‘d have that opinion too, if I was paid whatever they pay you for a review (I estimate a 4 to 5 figure amount). From our point of view, it’s just a part, that replaces another working part for no tangible reason. I‘m not mad at you for making a profit (in fact I support that!), I just feel like most 3d printing related channels are evolving into shills, because it pays best. That’s quite the opposite of what the 3d printing community should stand for.

[@ModBotArmy]

I wish it was anywhere close to that amount. I have always pride myself on transparency with my audience. Any review I do covers good and bad. In some cases I look hard to find things to nitpick at because perfect does exist. This is not a review, it is an install video intended to help someone who purchases this hotend. Because of all this shill calling I am seeing more and more creators lean into it. In a sense I can understand it. If you are going to do your best to be fair and cover both sides but still be called a shill there is no winning. I have gotten this far by doing what I feel is right and trying to be as transparent as possible. The goal has always been to help others be it a tutorial or just sharing my experience. Largely I feel that is what we are doing and what I plan to continue doing. @@maximilianlindner

[@cidrain]

Cold nozzle swap. Worth it for that alone.

[@b2eache2]

​@@ModBotArmy Some people just don't understand the mod life! I guess he also hasn't had nightmares occur with hot swapping 😅 I personally thank you for this video, sponsored or not they trusted you with their product, you need to make money and we need good Intel from a reliable source. I don't get why everyone thinks everyone should just do these things for free but here we are! Thank you, and please any mods you test out that make the k1/k1 max let us know!

[@alexey_sychev]

$65 for +3 mm3/s? Pfff...

[@ModBotArmy]

The flow is just a bonus. The removal of leaks and ease of changing is what you are paying for. It’s a higher quality hotend.

[@bananasba]

64$ not justified

[@evomente]

your explanation is for k1 and k1C. Not useful for my machine, the k1 max. 😐

[@ModBotArmy]

@@evomente I’m running this on my k1 max

[@joelmichels5564]

Creality printers are disappointing, they just need lots of tweaks and upgrades, and this really sucks! I own Prusa MK3 and Bambu Lab A10 and the K1 Max is the one that asks constantly for my attention. This is just disappointing! Not to mention the money you constantly spend to upgrade

[@Omgbroccoli]

Copper(!) thermal adaptor combined with aluminium (!) heatsink makes the worst possible galvanic pair which leads to further corrosion and decrease of effectiveness of heat transferring. Nice design choice, dumnuts.

[@notedmastrmind]

My understanding would be that this only applies when current is present and would be accelerated in the presence of moisture. There would be no need for a zinc separation barrier between the dissimilar metals under normal heat cycling, as this application does not have any voltage passing through it. The only issues that might arise would be from the difference in expansion rates, but that seems unlikely with the miniscule rates of size/temp/cooling for this application.

[@Omgbroccoli]

@@notedmastrmind difference in electrochemical potential is a source of current. I may be wrong about the temperature though.