Importance of Prefilling and V-Grooving butt joints.

In this video we talk about the importance of v-grooving butt joints and prefilling any large gaps, cracks or holes.
Is this something you do on your jobs?
Let us know in the comments down below.

[@jimmyb4956]

I cut my V’s before we hang the sheets way faster than doing it on the walls or ceilings and you don’t have to waste so many blades from hitting screws

[@JB-sz3yw]

However, did the drywall on the 1-hour soffit & fascia did it wrong. Should have let the 2nd sheet overlay the first sheet. So your cornerbead has more meat to sit on. And not a cracking issue down the road.

[@notsofunpj]

Thanks for another great video! Would love if you guys could do one on how you prefill around bad cutouts. I was taught the perma patch method (I'm not a pro pure hobby level) but seems like you guys have a faster, cheaper and cleaner approach

[@drywallnation]

Thanks for the kind words. We'll try to do that on one of our upcoming jobs. 6" rolls of Fibafuse work great for floating over damaged areas.

[@rickyperkins232]

@@drywallnation the problem why there is a need for V-Groove is pan mud and paper tape. I use Duroban and mesh tape and hot mud to finish and I never ever had a bubble or cracks.

[@rickyperkins232]

@@ViperStruck1 lol, Anytime bro the truth be told when I am on a union job I will use pan mud but if they have any hot mud on site I am going to burn through every bag first, cut all my corners and sometimes do a second coating before my shift ends

[@rickyperkins232]

@@ViperStruck1 that wood had to be moving or something because that is not normal especially with gluing it too

[@rickyperkins232]

@@ViperStruck1 this is being honest as honest as I can, with the combination of hot mud, duro rock and mess tape I have never had even one crack ever. I believe in that combination so much I even use it in corners which is a slow process but no cracks.

[@caseyalexander1705]

Great vid. 97% of people will never understand what it takes to get to this level of work. The guy I learned from, on my first day said “this is an art form most people can never appreciate”. Getting PERFECT walls is not for the faint of heart, glad you help people understand.

[@DragonAurora]

Pretty sure 97% of people don't want to do this type of work...it's 10% actual building and 90% ticky tack bullshit. People were building for thousands of years without these kinds of techniques...

[@lucashersh3553]

More like 94% dude

[@anthonyrodrigues5032]

@@DragonAurora Right do you prefer the comfort and quality of modern homes or do you prefer huts

[@TheBruunz]

love ur comment

[@als4817]

Thank you for posting. Part of my work is re-flattening walls during remodels, and yes the customers can tell. They've lived in the home for years and appreciate when it's brought up to standards many in this comment section may not appreciate.

[@Mark-EFMB-Combat-Medic]

As a retired DYI homeowner, I like how you combine clear and concise information, without turning it into a social event, while actually doing the work. Very much like on-the-job training in many industries. While I have seen lots of great drywall KZbin channels, it is my opinion that your instructional methodology is best suited for me. Thank you for the time and effort you put into educating people like me.

[@danfish4life249]

Nothing compares to watching a pro as he explains what he's doing and why, plus some things to watch out for and how to avoid problems. Great video now I will go struggle to do a passable job. It won't be my first rodeo but I have never prefilled before so it should make this a little easier.

[@endoalley680]

This that he is doing ain't exactly rocket science. A cub learns this his first day on the job with a professional crew.

[@jwm6314]

​@@endoalley680 "Pro" is not short for "Rocket Scientist." It is, in fact, great to watch a professional at anything explain what they do and why, if it's drywall or rocket science, it's all gravy.

[@simplyengineering2350]

@@endoalley680 cool superiority complex.

[@endoalley680]

@@simplyengineering2350 I just see real pros doing the work pretty much all day every day. Everybody V-cuts joints and prefills.

[@simplyengineering2350]

@@endoalley680 That's exactly what someone with a superiority complex would say. Cheers. ^_^

[@emmettbrandt]

Manitoba. I v groove and pre fill exactly like you. Always got mocked by the other tapers for v grooving but every time I stopped I’d see it showing(usually on sanding day or after paint🤦🏻‍♂️).

[@drywallnation]

Yup! Same, nothing worse than seeing a tape peaking through the finished product. All because someone didn't take 30 seconds to vgroove. Didnt used to have to vgroove as much years past but with lightweight drywall the paper delaminates very easily. Keep up the good work man!

[@carverdahlin2728]

Yep👍 the best method! I only v groove too and people mock me. They eventually realize their faults after paint and you see their butt joints lol

[@jimyeats]

V-grooving the drywall reminds of how you prepare a joint for welding to get appropriate strength and bonding.

[@davidtyndall9604]

OMG... I have been doing this for years and have been called every name in the book for doing it. I would rip up sheets of 7/16 OSB for my joints and get some of the flattest and smoothest joints that you have ever seen. I don't know if he is covering this or not but here is another little tip: do not put the screws in the adjoining edges until the second sheet has been installed. This greatly reduces the squish out that happens when screws are too close to the edges.

[@JoseFlores-xp9jp]

What does OSB mean? New to this trade.

[@ballgms308]

@@JoseFlores-xp9jp it’s particle board, like a piece of plywood but tiny strands. Google might be able to help

[@ballgms308]

Damn good point about waiting to screw butt joint until both pieces are hung. That squish will tighten it up a tiny bit too not that it matters

[@terdfergeson23]

@@JoseFlores-xp9jp oriented strand board. It’s the plywood that is made up of wood chips

[@jamesnm21]

You're supposed to hang drywall sheets vertically. The edges are already tapered for that reason. No butt joints.

[@yoshy4072]

For me watching pro boarders is a treat, I did it for a short time, 2 of us, my partner was a pro, I was greener than lime green. But the two of us would board a 2000sq ft home in 8 hrs, partner would go back in the evening and tape the entire home, 40 yrs ago without all the cool tools they have now. But like I said , I really enjoy watching pro's work regardless of the job.

[@frankking1466]

🙏🏼 amen, I agree with you! I learned from a pro & he and I could completely board a 1800-2200 square foot place in 8-10 hours! They were some stupid fn cottages too, needed like 30ft of scaffolding cuz of vaulted entrance/ceiling!

[@Hamp72]

Come on now.

[@dillon7981]

@@Hamp72 some people really do have that work drive tho, you wouldnt understand

[@Hamp72]

@@dillon7981 OK how many sheets does a 2000sq ft house take? I will tell you 145 sheets. I have been doing drywall since 1991. The most me and another man has ever hung, 2 of us was 119 sheets in 8 hrs. Back then we nailed everything. Now I have had a crew where we would go in and hang 179 sheets and tape it out in 9 hrs. You can't tell me nothing about drywall. I am Mr.Drywall. I have been in business for over 32 years. Haha blow that smoke somewhere else.

[@robscott2154]

Pixar called, they want their stories back 😅😅😅

[@johnhubbard6262]

I always V-grove on patches, interesting I have never seen anyone do it on full installs.

[@hooks4nooks]

Yeah, helped...I have an upstairs that was done with a friend years ago, and he said not to worry about gaps, that they'll get filled when they mud. Big mistake. But I think I've found a solution with your video. Pre-fill with quick set. And V-notch seams. Remove Paper fuzzies. Thanks. 👍

[@jeffmacfarlane3853]

Out in northern Utah, I always prefill but haven’t routinely v’d out the butt joints. Too often the butt joint has barely enough room to get the screws into the framing behind so cutting away some of the paper would lessen the holding power of the screw. Thanks for your videos. It is great to see how other drywall pros do it!

[@endoalley680]

Dont cut at the screws for maybe an inch..

[@kennethmabus381]

@@endoalley680 huh?

[@endoalley680]

@@kennethmabus381 If the screw head is in the butt joint because of a poor sheetrock measurement, start Veeing maybe 3/4" to either side of the screw.

[@kennethmabus381]

@@endoalley680 so if someone uses trim tex buttboard should they v cut the joint?

[@f87115]

It’s a 16th of an inch your cutting off the edge that is furry and uneven ,,, I see what your saying , but only if the cut was too far in , as far as weakening, everybody has thoughts I’m not owning yours, I enjoy the think pool .. ps and I’ve been wrong many times in my life :)

[@gregorysampson8759]

I want this guy on my job. A true pro. All the best.

[@pcno2832]

When I first moved into my condo, there were places here and there, mostly in corners, where it wasn't cracking, but you could see a certain wavyness and the surface felt hollow when you tapped on it. Sure enough, you could stick a screwdriver in and find a sizable pocket of air underneath where, when they taped it in 1958, no one bothered to pre-fill. Joints like that not only look terrible, but I would expect them to be vulnerable to penetration by fire, partially defeating the purpose of using drywall in the first place. I've cut out and filled those gaps whenever I've painted over the years; one great thing about drywall is that you can easily fix most flaws, no matter how sloppy the original job was.

[@Diablitojunior]

I've been recently v grooving my butt joints and on small jobs applying compound 20 sheetrock on my first coat , applying a fiberglass mesh tape. Again only on smaller jobs to help speed up the process. On all jobs v grooving your butts and applying prefill of any kind is a great choice. I don't think I'll be using durabond any time soon, that stuff is not sandable at any stage. Maybe for filling larger holes in plaster repair jobs. I give this guy credit, very confident and great overall working attitude. Great video. Cheers

[@scottbrown1820]

Finally a drywaller on KZbin that knows what they’re doing

[@JustinBiddix]

Cool video! I did some dry wall work in my basement a year ago. It was my first time. I was humbled. I told myself I’d never do it again. But.. of course here I am about to start mudding a bedroom I just built. I prefilled my joints on my first time. I will be pre filling joints today also. It just makes sense. I also am going to try v-grooving my butt joints. Thanks for sharing your skills!

[@inoutrenos]

What bothered you the most about it? (Most people is the sanding factor.) I usually use a sponge & warm/steaming water between coats so I dont have dust

[@jamesnm21]

Next time hang the sheets vertical buddy. The edges are tapered for that reason. That's how we do it here.

[@greggotheeggo]

V groving should come with a extra cost. It adds several hours if not half a day labour on a average house.

[@williamhelus3522]

I use the bricklayer method. Put mud on seam before butt mounting. I don't usually use tape. No v-groove either!. BullyBilly.

[@amariza21]

I been doing this for the past 20 years and had so many debate with other guys about this. Finally i found a person that really unstable it. My uncle taught me how to do joint compound in 97 and 5 years later i challenged him and my cousin on this , but couldn't win the debate, specially against your master

[@JESUSCHRISTISLORDTHEALMIGHTY]

I have been VGrooving my butt joints for years and thought I was the only one, and also sometimes question is it worth it. Then I see these guys doing it and I feel proud. These guys are tits

[@danielwest9230]

I was a journeyman taper for many years. Everything was backfilled with Durabond 90 before taping. Seams, butt joints nails. Less shrinkage. And our rockers alway cut a tapered bevel on the butt joints.

[@jamesnm21]

Hang em vertical buddy. No butt joints. Edges are tapered for that reason. That's how we do it here.

[@markdavies4307]

Awesome Video. I usually tape, then see bubbles, then rip off the tape, and get some mesh tape and cut it to 3/4 wide and then put in channel and then apply 7 coats of mud, LOL, you guys are masters Got to go sand, thanks

[@bigez107]

I am a DYIer and in the process of a full (to the studs) remodel of a bathroom. It has been a monster so far. 1955 home with multiple layers of plaster (actual concrete) and steel mesh to remove. There is not one level spot in the room when I started, but I have done the best I can to get it level and flat. BUT, I have some gaps and a few damaged areas (one where the cut out saw got away from me). I have watched at least 100 hours of video and THIS ONE actually address the things I want to know. Thank You! I just sat down from checking my screws, scraping any edges sticking up, cutting the edges of damaged areas and removing any loose drywall. Plan to do my prefill tomorrow!

[@wrifraff]

I have a house from 1920, and the upstairs walls have a terrible texture on top of crumbling plaster. Definitely thinking of knocking the walls down to the studs, adding some plugs and insulation, and drywalling. Any words of advice?

[@robbydobbywabisabi]

Hey there I'm a painter in Bellingham,wa. Thanks for the great video. I've found that most cracks that appear in drywall over time are from delamination at butt joints and large gaps not being prefilled. To fix them, I v-groove the effected areas, and fill the crevice with loctite power grab adhesive before doing the repair. This way the cracks won't reappear the way they would if they were just mudded over. Nice to see someone taking the time to do the prep that will ensure maximum life span of their work.

[@joenowak7212]

If there are cracks they usually need taped again it technically becomes a seam again.

[@ClashGardener]

I like when my snip stays in one strip when I cut my butts. Most satisfying to see all the strings on the floor after I'm done. Great video Bro. More people need to know they can't jump to get tape on.

[@drywallnation]

Thanks man. I've seen people tape over disgusting buttjoints before. Haha. You get what you pay for. A solid base coat lays a good foundation for your tape. Keep up the good work!

[@garyrosie9475]

I can. My base is the sheetrock.

[@markhuru]

Only cut out paper if bulging or loose, seems overkill, I have been using a heavier mesh tape with diagonal strands, and regular mud. Durabond is great of course for big gaps

[@Campisimike11]

to cut vs in a jobs buttjoints is a waste of time when the dollar keeps rolling. maybe ya by the hour lol

[@lorenzoreyes4832]

I do open my butt joints a bit getting rid of the burrs... but it looks like u opening the hell out of those edges and for me it's a big no no.. there's no need to use the Moses technique to slipt the ocean... all u need is some mud to get in there

[@cfomusic73]

Great video.... Yes I prefill using 5 min mud but only because typically I'm doing a bathroom or kitchen so it's not a large area so 5 min is plenty of working time. Then I tape same day with 20 min and then by the end of the day I'm putting a final coat on with 45 or 90........ Well I try to at least. So this way I can sand the next morning.

[@carlsimpson9978]

If I done this on house builds I wouldn’t make any money on the price’s

[@stanislavandrievsky2182]

It sure is a great practice but all this takes time and time is money. Unfortunately nobody in my area wants to pay extra. They will find another guy who is cheaper and doesn’t prefill. No one cares anymore what is underneath as long as it looks good when painted.

[@michaelkistner6286]

I agree. On the upside, it keeps the repair guys busy. I do a lot of repair work and I've yet to fix one that has been prefilled unless some sort of disaster like a wall moving or water line failure has happened. Don't get me wrong. A body can do everything right and stuff still goes to crap. But cutting corners pretty much guarantees that it will. It will just be someone else's problem when it does.

[@sdqsdq6274]

not really , i dont mind paying more ,if i know what goes into the work , most of time owners dont ......

[@Gussy0981]

I wanna know what this guy charges per sq ft.

[@carloscartagenarodriguez2106]

$19.50 pr square I heard

[@toocoolfor48]

👍. I prefill with Durabond 90....Every time...awesome advice...never v-grooved before, but will now...Thanks !

[@donzon353]

Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. i usually pre fill big gaps and breakage. But I like your thought on grooving out joints and will incorporate that into my work.

[@kennethwilliams7731]

Your contractors must pay you very well! So much competition and drywallers cutting cost and underbidding! Here in eastern N.C.the builders are only interested in a very fast turnover. They want you in and out in 5 days max! Can't take the time to v groove or prefill!

[@drywallnation]

Well its not up to my contractors to decide what they pay me. Lol. Only I decide that. And its not cheap no. Drywall is 70% of your homes visible interior, I'll never understand builders who try and cheap out on drywall work. It's literally what shows the most throughout a home. Quality workmanship takes the time it takes. I dont work for builders or contractors who give unrealistic timelines or poor site conditions. Vgrooving and prefilling doesn't take that long either. It just ensures the rest of the job goes smoothly in my opinion.

[@tonysicily2687]

@@drywallnation And THIS is why people watch your videos, and not the “cowboys” Keep up the good work

[@jodester7434]

@@drywallnation Preach brother! LOL...I am the same way. I am so busy that If they don't want it done the right way then they aren't a good customer for me. This is what someone will be looking at for the duration of the houses lifespan....it has to be perfect!

[@remodelwithashleys]

@@drywallnation I wish you guys were in NW Louisiana. I'd keep you guys busy, love your attention to detail. The time you take out of your day to educate and video your work is very much appreciated.

[@drywallnation]

@@remodelwithashleys Thanks for the kind words :)

[@SWhite-hp5xq]

Can you show the difference/benefit over time?

[@OurBuild]

Love seeing how you do it over there Brian, cant believe you guys get recessed edges on the ends of your sheets, thats awesome! We only get square ends in AUS, so try to avoid the but joints where we can.

[@drywallnation]

Well to clarify the butt ends of the sheet dont come recessed. We use Trim-Tex buttboard in order to achieve that. You might possible be able to order it in AUS but I'm not sure if it meets your building code.

[@brucedeleskey8540]

I just fast set 90 anything over an 8th of an inch wide v it out if need to

[@G4RY1159]

They always do tape poorly in the UK, lost count how many times I've had to repair ''poor'' rushed shabby work, same with artexed ceilings that haven't been bonded properly.

[@blaq7892]

I gonna do it. And add way more screws along joints

[@vornamenachname8783]

Hi from Germany. V-Shaping is absolute Standard here! I think most would do prefill as well. To me it is common sense. With Uniflott Plaster Knauf claimedin the past, you wouldon`t even need to tape. But at the dusty edges you should apply deep sealer to reach good adhesion. In daily life I think people don`t make sure to separate walls & ceilings from each other with silicontape, so cracks could be an issue then. I am about to put drywall on our roof. Here I use deep sealer and tape because the roof is said to be kind of "moving" way more than walls & ceilings. Strictly separated surfaces from each other. With Silicontape there is a sharp "haircrack" only. Hardly to be recognized, like it a lot.

[@johnaustin9051]

Craftmanship is not cheap, but worth the extra $$$. Been doing the V with the 90 hardest for years now. Great for repair base.

[@sandymilne224]

Correct… on higher end jobs. Definitely NOT for a basement suite for a rental. Too costly to do.

[@454Casull]

When carpentry meets welding

[@drywallnation]

Haha, pretty much.

[@michaelkistner6286]

Great video. I've been prefilling forever (the guy who taught me insisted on it). The one thing I can add that might be helpful is to use a grout bag. Cut the bottom out of an ice cream pail and stick the bag through it. Fold the bag over the lip of the bucket and put the whole thing into a 5 gal bucket with a lid that has a hole for the ice cream bucket. It'll hold the bag open and fold the end over at the bottom. Just fill er up and you're off to the races. For me it's about three times as fast as putting it on with a knife.

[@drywallnation]

Im not entirely sure i understand what you mean but that sounds interesting!

[@normanknoodle7267]

Make a video and show us how you do this. I learn most by watching.

[@andrewcarr2431]

@@drywallnation he is making a large icing bag similar to what a cake baker would use to decorate cakes using a couple of pails and a grouting bag. You then squeeze the compound out of the bag nozzle and the pail holds a large amount of material to save you refilling the piping bag constantly. Personally i just mix up in a small bucket and slap it on the hawk as I go along, but whatever works!

[@9and7]

@@andrewcarr2431 Wouldn't the 45 or 90 minute mud ruin the bag? Just wondering because it sounds cool.

[@b4runner25]

all the gaps should be prefilled in my opinion.. love to see Durabond 90 being used

[@drywallnation]

So....exactly what we did in the video?

[@markstarr8927]

Great video. First pro validation of pre-filling I started doing rehabbing plaster and lathe walls

[@gregcollins7277]

My man I would LOVE to work for you. I wish I could get guys to understand that prepping a job first just like this will make it a better job. Guys just don't understand this but I do. Great job my man! 👍👍

[@jamin3131]

What's the difference between doing a v groove and leaving a 1/16-1/8th gap between butts? In Ontario, we've been improving our finishing every job, currently using 90 to prefill gaps and first coat on screws to avoid shrinkage.

[@drywallnation]

We're also in Ontario. You can definitely do what you suggested and leave a small gap. However, vgrooving serves as a double purpose. It also helps eliminate any loose paper or burs on the edge of the sheet that may peak or delaminate once moisture from the tape is applied. Keep up the good work man! Never stop improving!

[@kerriwilson7732]

J M or DrywallNation I'm not a drywaller, but please indulge my foolish question. I thought taping was to make a physical tie between 2 sheets. If the sheets are gapped & filled with Durabond 90 (for example), then mudded, why is the tape needed? Aren't the boards cemented together sufficiently with the Durabond 90? Wouldn't skipping the tape allow a level joint instead of a raised joint (+ 14 inches wide or more mud to taper the joint to hide the seam)? Why is the tape essential? 🤔 TIA

[@alimacallan3814]

@@kerriwilson7732 I'm not a dryliner, I'm in joinery and millwork in the UK, but I've always been told the tape helps stop hairline cracks.

[@karljam8220]

@@drywallnation yeah I wouldn't prefill angles with 90min not a good idea if it's a new house due to settling.

[@bulldogloverlover5496]

Very informative and great presentation. From Dothan, AL

[@drywallnation]

Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@johnanderson8096]

63 year old contractor... Impressive!!!!!!!!

[@heartlesslover5998]

I learn something new everyday! Much love from Canada!👍🏽🤙🏽😁

[@gregmaffei4820]

I wish our finishers would watch and learn, that's the way to get ready for tape. Nice work.

[@johnbeckwith1361]

My first thought is that the drywall market in your area still pays well. I can get a 2 car garage completely drywalled and textured for $1600, done in 2 days by 3-4 guys. Not much money there, not much time can be spent on the details. Not sure where you are at but the Dems' open Border debacle going on right now will surely wreck your market (I'm 45 minutes from the Border in CA). You'll love the cheap labor at first. But soon you'll be competing with 20 more companies, cost of services goes down, wages-down, quality of labor goes down, etc etc. This will happen to every sector of home remodeling. Its a matter of time now.

[@bobjoatmon1993]

But but but the illegals will vote Democrat so all other detrimental considerations are irrelevant (to Socialist Democrats who really ARE NOT for the working man, that's just propaganda they spout and ignorant people suck in)

[@BillSW]

they dont send their best!

[@squigglyphrank9348]

Good stuff man. You take pride in your work. My wrists are starting cripple from coating beads. Do any of those tools work for coating first coat of bead? Maybe do a video on those. Thanks

[@drywallnation]

Thank you sir! We really do take pride in our work. Sorry to hear about your wrists. How are you currently coating your beads? By hawk & trowel or pan & knife? Whichever it is, something you can try immediately is to try whichever you're not currently. Some different style movement might help elleviate some of that pain. As far as if any auto tools work for filling beads, you can coat beads with flat boxes yes. We will be filming a video on this very shortly!

[@gerryhazelton9569]

Coat the beads with a bead box . Your hands might be hurting because you need to put a lil water in the mud ..

[@danielhandfield7647]

J'aime beaucoup les commentaires de Brian de DrywallNation,ont reconnais sa compétence et je me suis inspirer de ces reportage pour acheter mes équipements de Level 5, ces un bon communicateur, Mercipour vos bon conseils,

[@drywallnation]

Merci d'avoir regardé! Felicitations pour votre achat d'outils Level5.

[@bomatdaman]

Excellent video!! Question: I live in Vegas and our patio ceiling during the summer months periodically makes a loud sound, like a pterodactyl has landed on the roof. Upon further inspection, the ceiling drywall butt-joints are shifting because of the heat. Would tearing off the tape and FILLING THE BUTT-JOINTS WITH DURABOND solve this problem? In other words, does Durabond "fuse" the two panels preventing the shifting under intense heat conditions (likely 150 degrees on a hot summer day above the patio attic)?

[@ryane6719]

Highly unlikely. Anything that moves is going to crack. What about a high reflective coating on the roof above so you don’t have so much heat soak?

[@workisfun...2438]

Great swings in either humidity or temperature causes the framing material to move in one way or another. It effects many parts of the building envelope. Where we live, it would be insanity to install finished rock on a porch ceiling. If the sheetrock were to crack and you continue to have issues after a repair, it would probably be time to consider an alternative ceiling material. But to answer your question directly, no, it wouldn't make a difference.

[@MrGooddoctor]

Hey man thanks for this. Solid video bro.

[@drywallnation]

You're quite welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@carcasscruncher9354]

I'm definitely not a pro with mudding. I just use all purpose mud. Been doing drywall repairs and what not for years and never had a complaint. I never v cut. I never used anything other than all purpose mud. Hot mud seems a lot faster though for first coat for sure

[@AllThroughALife]

I just started using hot mud after a decade plus of weekend warrior premade joint compound. It makes a huge difference in the quality of the finished product. It's not as easy to sand, but you don't have to sand as much because it goes on better and doesn't shrink or crack as much. I'm kicking myself for not using hot mud sooner.

[@derekreed503]

Great video and tips. Helped me get a better finish.

[@drywallnation]

Happy to hear Derek!

[@craigkovatch7564]

Great camera work too. Critical in videos like this and often not so good 😅

[@9and7]

Toronto. 90 Durabond Prefil is a must and Very happy to see so many gooVers in the comments. Cheers.

[@irashort]

I was taught to prefill....but not like this. This should be the go to reference for prefilling. Well done.

[@charlesviner1565]

Davenport Iowa. We fill gaps and cracks but we should do more and it shows. Thanks again for the video

[@drywallnation]

Haha! Thanks for watching man!

[@jondavidmcnabb]

OMG!!! I learned a ton from this video. Thank you for the education!

[@latinprince896]

Rarely ever V groove since its not time effective and takes more time. I only v groove when necessary. But i always prefill larger gaps / damaged drywall

[@sarabiakristofer]

Yeah bro we pre fill but we don't v cut the butt's, we use hot mudd at the company I work for located here in California, but it seems like good practice to v cut the butt's prior to pre filling. Keep up the great videos.

[@jaylyons4785]

Yes sir, prefill I think is very important for quality professional workmanship,in my opinion! Concrete fill is my product of choice, I call it liquid drywall, with the fibres in product creates incredibly strong bond and fast setting. From kootenays, bc, canada

[@tinamassie.1534]

Husband taped in Alberta for years , prefilled with confill all the time .👍

[@drywallnation]

Very nice! Confill is awesome!

[@jeffro5032]

Been a taper going on 32 years now. Nice seeing these young bucks taking their time and doing it correctly! You V-groove your butts , it saves on time through your first and second coats , and you use way less mud from trying to float out a hump! Seen so many tapers NOT do this......which hurts them in the end.

[@rrboss33]

​@@ViperStruck1not at saving mud and making transition less noticeable

[@rrboss33]

@@ViperStruck1 companies dnt give it that taper or edge because the edges would break easier during transport and wouldn't have the surface to apply the paper that holds 2 together for transportation and yes now in days nothing last past 7 years that's what they mean by lifetime warranty if things lasted for ever we wouldn't have jobs this is more for detail finishers or diy not production

[@kennethwilliams2738]

Not me, it takes me a little longer but I peal the butts. Several reasons for this. The mud bonds to brown paper better than the surface white paper. Pealing it gives the same effect, removes the delamination, and fuzzy factory ends. I prefill with setting compound, I prefer paper, my partner prefers mesh. When we work a job together I bend my ways. We peal the butts, double mesh the butts each tape over lapping the joint by ⅓ of the tape and like your doing using the knife perpendicular to the joint and a little slapping to squeeze the mud into the joints. I know this is a little off mfg spec's. But it works well. When pealing you need to curl the peal which gives it a nice clean tear without it running away on you. It's a trick of the trade. This works well I've seen work that's decades old and holding up nicely, done using the same methods. I'm a north east taper. A lot of guys here question why I do them the way I do.... Sometimes I'll tell, sometimes I won't. I let em scratch their heads and think they are better than me. Makes a little mess, it's very slightly slower than cutting a v, but again the mud bonds to the joint better and your able to get a nice flat butt joint that's strong. Maine.

[@andysturrr]

I always prefill my butt

[@rolandlamore5439]

I'm from VT and have been prefilling of large gaps & butt joints for years with Durabond 90 hard set . However I go one step further on my butt joints. I spread the durabond on the butt joint then I put a double layer ( offset slightly ) of fine mesh tape,then coating right on top of that with a light coat of the same durabond mix. Then after it's dried I 1st coat with heavy weight black lid Profoam compound , 2nd & 3 rd coat finishes I use light weight mud. This method has served me well for decades ,where butt joints that break over moving area's such as doors and windows I've never had a call back for a cracked butt joint ever. Love that you also take the extra time and effort to take care of your customer vs the guy working / thinking it's by the sq.ft so he needs to quickly slam it out and run .

[@johnathonramirez9845]

Iv never even heard of doing this. Muding my first bathroom tomorrow. DIY. Glad I found this.

[@ClashGardener]

Anyone who knows anything will be snippin loose paper. Some guys just won't lol. Rather add an extra coat or sand like hell. The v allows you to not get so much depth on the sheet. However, I hate durabond sheetrock staining on the drywall. Boys need to get their shit together and stop trywalling.

[@DeuceGenius]

thumbs up. im a concrete guy but need work in winter lol. took a drywall job. good to watch some folks that know what they are doing. thanks i learned a lot

[@johnneytilley4165]

From NL Canada. I always 'V' my butts and prefill as well. With spendable 90 usually

[@matthewmagrisi5451]

I always pre-fill my butt joints and gaps. Normally with easy sand. I will v-grove most butt joints to keep it smooth. Nice video.

[@drywallnation]

Good to hear! Keep up the good work brother!

[@joshuaparnoff4479]

@@drywallnation have you guys used easysand for the prefill? Or always durabond, any dry time difference or benefit from using one or the other?

[@thomasfreer580]

Been taping for 30 yrs. and never V grooved or not staggered butt joints......this guy probably takes and hour and a half to watch 60 minutes.......lol

[@Tolohtony]

I'm just a DIY'er who just drywalled my basement. I V-grooved and prefilled my bad butt joints just because it looked like it would make it easier to tape. Glad to see I was doing something the pros do.

[@vids595]

If I am doing patches of large areas, can I just use easysand and mesh tape? Assuming my butt joints are not too tight? It seems that with mesh tape I can force the easysand to fill in the gaps without prefilling before taping.

[@NathanHarrison7]

Beautiful clean work. Thank you for sharing your decades of experience. Why do you install the drywall horizontally versus vertically? And why, in this video, did you use that hot mud? Why can’t you just use regular all purpose stuff like us normal humans use?

[@kidjetrecon7153]

Explain why your needing to pre- fill butt joints be honest, drywall manufacturers are getting lazy with cutting . Never had this problem until 2010 , flats are becoming a problem. In Iowa I personally have pre- filled everything butts , flats dura bond no easy sand material. I can show anyone the difference after ten years make a difference, I have to live around my customers. 😂. People don’t care for quality until it’s already too late.

[@JamesJohnson-rh5qw]

I’m a retired sheet rocker and we always grooved our butt joints before we hung the sheet. Sheet rockers looked like they could have done a better job of hanging. They gave you a joint eight inches from the wall. Why?

[@drywallnation]

I'm glad to hear you v groove as well. Regarding the joint 8" from the wall, it's a long video, so im not sure which you're referring too but we hung this job ourselves, so im sure we had our reasons. We also use buttboard which recesses your buttjoint.

[@frankking1466]

You’re not v-groovin all butt joints I hope!! Your video is decent but how are your factory edged butt joints getting all ram jammed up? Up here in Canada we just tape butt joints regular style , on new home builds with good framing I don’t understand what prefilling factory but joints does! (Except waste time & give ya extra hours on paycheque)! 🤔 Been taping for like 10 years & Only time it needs to b done is if you’re trying to tap/splice into existing drywall to match & blend it!! (Reno style)!!

[@PaulPeck]

Yes, we V and prefill our butt joints with setting type compound. Great video Brian!🔥👏🏻😎

[@drywallnation]

Right on Paul! Nice to see other pros in the industry doing the same thing. Thanks dude!

[@andershommeversland4807]

Been painting since 84, always prefill dammages, mistakes and but joints. Use powdered jointing compound with warm water or quick set.

[@petera.watters4459]

I'm inWhitehorse, Yukon, Canada. I always prefill. Pretty much same way in this video.

[@GaryVelt]

Nonsense. Always stagger joints. Can't afford rock don't build. I don't ever prefill or cut buttjoints. Must take a year to do a big house.

[@trentonplace957]

Listen, What counts in todays society is speed, EXTERNAL appearance and marketing/rhetoric. You take a guy that knows advertising, and a guy that an manipulate reviews, you have yourself infallible business. Then you can pay the third cheek to do out and do the shittiest work man wont* ever see. Today's buyer doesn't even know what too look for in a house (because he's never held a tool...).nonetheless, people will keep coming because the kids pay attention to the AI voice on tik tok and the reviews. There is no incentive to do a good job anymore and that's a fact..

[@timothywhieldon1971]

20 minute compound, always prefill and vgrove nearly all joints and repairs, anything that is not a factory edge... MD and CO Reporting in.

[@jhalleck]

Upstate NY Durabond 90 I prefill everything you mentioned in the video. I also fabricated a 45 degree wood block I use with my utility knife to make nice V grooves consistently.

[@drywallnation]

Nice dude! Good thinking making your own v-grooving tools. Tajima makes some nice ones now.

[@davidpolom8726]

just had to do this same trick as a repair to the ceiling at my aunts house in Virginia. It worked great !

[@mikeallen5291]

Midwest USA. I prefill gaps, damaged corners, and anywhere that tape might sag into the joint istead of lay flat. I also have been doing something like v cutting my butt joints since the 90's. I've actually made a cutter that cuts a 1-1/2" wide x 1/8" deep flute into the butt ends of my drywall. Once I make that cut, I take a 3"" knife and coat the bare gypsum with durabond 90 so it doesn't leave boogers when I tape. I also use this method on my corners as so they are always true 90's (so long as the framer did a good job. lol) I also use buttboard as well depending on the application. Usually my cutter and tape make a seamless joint with no hump though. The cutter works like a planer and it takes about 10 seconds from bevel to bevel to scoop the material out as I obviously do not scoop anything out of the bevelled edges. The best part about the tool is that, when I have an odd ceiling height or anywhere where I come up in the middle of a sheet, I can cut a bevel into my sheetrock so the joint can be clean and even . I'm currently working on a portable steam press that can compress the cut edge of the drywall to create more of a factory style bevel that will not strip the paper and eliminate the need to coat the raw gypsum.

[@alexnunez4019]

Philadelphia - I bassically prefill everything with an abnormal gap or imperfection 💪🏽

[@lonniecrook1684]

Nice to see someone who really knows their trade and prides themselves on doing the beat job possible.

[@geraldmarks5880]

I'm from Newfoundland. Been plastering houses and commercial buildings for 15 years. I've always done this . Just with all purpose mud thou if I wasn't in a hurry to tape in.

[@soulbrother3299]

No! 20+ years...now if there wide cracks yes fill it in!! If not it could "blister" but normally if theres enough mud behind the tape so when pressure is applied the gap is filled. Still nice video!! Georgia

[@MrRon2k]

Why aren't V-grooved butt joints treated like regular factory paper edge joints. I agree on removing the fuzzy edges on butt joints but why pre-fill? Sounds like v-grooving and treating like a regular paper edge would be enough