Often used on a surface grinders, which have water soluble coolant being sprayed onto it constantly. Once that O ring wears out & coolant seeps in, it's just a matter of time. Working on one right Now. Thx for the nice video !
@DudleyToolwright8 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing your experience. Much appreciated.
@BruceBoschek2 жыл бұрын
Just got around to watching this. Very interesting. I never knew how these chucks worked. Thanks for the excellent video.
@DudleyToolwright2 жыл бұрын
Thanks. That is why I did this project as well. I didn't really have a use for the magnetic chuck.
@fredbloggs48296 жыл бұрын
I found this video really helpful. I've always wondered how these manual magnetic chucks work. The one I have also has significant magnetism even when off. It would be rather helpful to find a fix for that issue too. Great video.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the info. Having 0 experience with this type of chuck I was not sure what was correct. At least now I have another data point.
@Steve_Just_Steve6 жыл бұрын
Glad you got thru that with all your digits! That thing is surely capable of taking them off. Don't think I could've brought myself to milling the top rather than stoning or lapping, but glad it came out usable to you! Thanks for the vid!
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
The forces were significant, but not so extreme that I was concerned about a pinching issue that would result in digit loss. This chuck was really badly damaged so, stoning or lapping would have to be a final process rather than the only one. Perhaps though I am wrong. I have never used a magnetic chuck before and was not sure how they were designed. I do not own a surface grinder, so for now, this chuck will only be used for light milling operations to flat stock on the mill. I really appreciate your ideas and comments.
@edwardlance23794 жыл бұрын
Older video, but you could probably make it operate even better by shimming the slop of the pack in the bottom case so it moves back and forth and stays square (it was wobbling a fair bit side to side when you were showing the operation before putting the top on). Also, the lever cam and the linkage probably have slop from wear after thousands and thousands of operations over the years. The net effect is that the pack is not offsetting far enough (and squarely) to get the magnets completely centered on the isolation spaces (the epoxy strips), so it's still hanging on to the work piece in the "off" position. Depending on the wear of the cam, you might get away making a new linkage and setting the hole for the lever out a few thousandths (whatever is needed to make up for the wear). It might not be perfect, but it would sure help. Or, you could even make an entirely new cam and linkage and get it just right.
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
It is (old), but you have inspired me to take a second look. Thanks for taking the time to share these really helpful suggestions.
@mikehoncho5389 Жыл бұрын
Also I think they are usually filled with oil.
@chrisblight60694 жыл бұрын
Interesting, I've used surface grinders for most of my life and never had a mag chuck apart before; granted the one I use is twice the size, and, ironically, being used to grind genuine Brown and Sharp replacement parts. Anyway, nice job on the refurb, from what I can see and know about it.
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the feedback. I always like to here about the good/bad of my videos.
@riversvic5 жыл бұрын
KZbin has a terrible suggested video traffic, I’ve been watching for a long time and just discovered your channel today. Awesome stuff, I ended up with a B&s 8x24 chuck that came with my super 612🤔
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
I have noticed this as well. There are a lot of really interesting channels out there, that I am just now discovering. By the way, as I started reading your comment, I first thought it was going to be a negative one. Very funny that. A camera on catching my reaction when reading your post would have caught some funny video. I love that your logo looks like a tabasco label. Very creative.
@riversvic5 жыл бұрын
@@DudleyToolwright lol, sorry about that.You are the first to notice or at least mention the logo, was starting to think it wasn't very obvious.
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
It was to me immediately and I love the play on ideas.
@brianwalk1083 жыл бұрын
That miniature magnetic chuck looks hilarious under that normal sized hex die
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
Funny observation of my very very very strange workshop.
@chuck8952Ай бұрын
I worked in a tool shop for forty years and ground lots of magnetic chunks to get them flat and parallel to the ways of the surface grinder Never saw any one machine one before. Another thing: Why would you not think those hardened dowels wouldn’t wreck your carbide inserts. You could have at least cut them down close to the right length first.
@DudleyToolwrightАй бұрын
I did this before I had a surface grinder and carbide can be upwards of Rockwell C70+ so I thought with a slow feed the would cut right through them. I was wrong.
@cgrobe214 жыл бұрын
When you were looking for that bottom screw for the handle I kept yelling RIGHT THERE! LOL
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
I love that. The camera often catches things I miss.
@martineastburn36794 жыл бұрын
That is a surface grinding chuck. The pack is maybe ok, might be cleaner. The top should be surfaced with the base on and affixed as in use. When surfaced that way, it is sure to be square to the surface it is on and the cutter.
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
Nice tips, thanks.
@DK-vx1zc6 жыл бұрын
Nice job! very helpful, and interesting! Thanks for sharing
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for commenting.
@ZenMinus6 жыл бұрын
I have refurbished two Eclipse brand magnetic chucks. I am surprised how easily the top plate on your mag chuck is removed and replaced. You MUST put a good sealant between the body and the top plate. I would suggest that you check that if the body is made from two parts, a middle section and a bottom plate, that the seal between the two parts be renewed. The oil hole is not just to lubricate the shaft :-) it's there so that the whole inside space of the magnetic chuck can be FILLED with oil. The chuck should be watertight - obviously it was not so when you purchased it. Regards Peter
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all of the info. I have never worked with a magnetic chuck before and really appreciate all of the info. I believe that the whole bottom section is on piece of cast aluminum. I should have thought about gasket material when I closed this guy up. I did consider milling a groove in the bottom section for some kind of sealant, but I figured that if Brown and Sharpe had left such a course face milling job on the bottom section, that they weren't too concerned about this kind of issue. Perhaps I thought incorrectly. I don't own a surface grinder, so for now this chuck will only be used for light milling operations on flat stock, so coolant issues are non-existent.
@RoughAndWretchedRAW3 жыл бұрын
Maybe those plastic strips on the bottom of the top plate were originally wedge shaped. As you move the handle the wedges forced the magnet far enough from the plate that the magnet plate drops to the bottom and allows the top plate to become demagnetized.
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
Interesting possibility, thanks.
@lindabergquist46083 жыл бұрын
Hi, is it possible that the top plate has been rotated 180 degrees I know that at the factory the magnets are shimmed for perfect alignment. Rich
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
If so, it was the way I got it. Interesting idea though.
@Wolfmetalfab6 жыл бұрын
Timely video, I was working on a mag chuck last night that seems to have similar issues that came with a surface grinder I just acquired, currently the magnet pack is stuck the top so I have no idea what the condition there is though. I foresee a fight to get the magnet pack off though being that its a 6"x18" chuck. Other issue mine has is the base casting is cast iron and the hole for the cam is somewhat worn, I may need to copy that brown and Sharpe bushing to fix that. Figure years of use on a surface grinder with flood cooling its not surprising to find the inside messed up, along with the table under the chuck.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Good luck, It was really difficult to get the magnet pack off of the top of this small chuck when I got the top on backwards. I had to smack it off with a plastic mallet. I took quite a while. For your bigger one, yikes!
@ronkluwe48756 жыл бұрын
Recommend that you take the top off again and smear a very, very, thin layer of sealant on the two mating surfaces for the top and bottom sections. You stated it looked like coolant go into the interior and this caused corrosion. Seal the entry point and this issue should not re-occur.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
A great idea. I will give your suggestion a shot. I assume that you are talking about some sort of gasketing compound? Thanks for the good idea.
@watahyahknow5 жыл бұрын
the coolant used and the fact that its usually permanently mounted doesnt help the pieces are usually soldered together
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
Interesting. I guess keeping the cutting fluid out is more important than having to get in to clean it out...
@peterciurea77713 жыл бұрын
use a sheet thin polycarbonate or hdpe to distance the top from the magnet's field. it will make it smoother
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tip. It seems the manufacturers use really thin strips of plastic for that purpose. Too thick and the magnetic field will drop off rapidly.
@stephenhanson33093 жыл бұрын
thanks,was deciding weather permanent or electro. look hand flattening lithography stones for flattening without surface grinder.
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips. I really appreciate them.
@zephyrold24786 жыл бұрын
Hi I think you could get the holding power even better if you ground the magnets (upper surface) so you would get a better contact between magnets and the lid, try to stick a magnet on to a painted surface versus a clean surface and feel the difference.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
I think you are correct, but I currently have no way to do that, but I will remember your suggestion.
@JamesDedmon6 жыл бұрын
Great repair got to love folks who neglect tools. Probably was in a shop where a bunch of lazy machinists worked
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comments. I wonder if they never realized that coolant could get in between the top and bottom sections of the chuck. I also think Brown and Sharpe could have added a gasket between the sections as well.
@lindsayfog52466 жыл бұрын
maybe not so much lazy but not wanting to have to regrind it every time it's taken off which takes a bit of time and numerous wheel dressing as they are soft steel and brass, stainless or aluminium. I assume you turned it on when you resurfaced it
@jackrichards18632 жыл бұрын
Well I neveer saw inside before. Where you first milled the bit I suspected you could replace the phenolic with epoxy resin and then mill it of, just until the aluminium touched off? I also reckon a brass shim [3 mm - 6 mm was it? ] to align it in the square position during the motion from on-off [& vice versa] would help make it go better ? Also, is there not a special slippery oil that you float the inside with in these chucks ?
@DudleyToolwright2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great suggestions. You probably could use way oil inside. It is very sticky and would keep the water out. I wonder why none of the manufacturers do this?
@jeffryblackmon48466 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Now I know how they work. Too bad the vendor withheld information.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
I appreciate the comment. Thanks.
@whidbeyman6 жыл бұрын
The probable reason for the corrosion being so impressive is dissimilar metals galvanic action. Nice work and impressive results. It looked a little like there was some thin material between the top plate and the magnet pack that you removed and discarded. Could that have been intended to maintain a minimum gap?
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks and yes definitely to the spacer material. I am not sure how these chucks are normally designed, but the plastic spacers were definitely proud of the top plate by at least 0.020". I agree that they were probably there to reduce switching friction, but they were so badly damaged that until I milled the entire top surface flat, they were catching on the badly corroded magnetic pack. I can move the on/off lever somewhat easily now, but I bet it was much easier when new. I also spread some Vactra way lube on the top plate to make things smoother, but I bet I will eventually have issues. Thanks as always for the insightful comments.
@EightiesTV3 жыл бұрын
If you leave a pint of mixed grinding coolant in a glass jar a year, it will grow more strange life than primordial earth even without galvanic corrosion. The stuff is simply nasty.
@silverbullet74343 жыл бұрын
If you put a heavy aluminum foil in between it will be smooth and should last.
@DudleyToolwright2 жыл бұрын
I would not have considered that approach, thanks.
@ZenMinus6 жыл бұрын
Why not run an end mill "around" the phenolic spacers , this would ease the on/off transition of the handle. Essentially resurface the inside of the top plate to allow the phenolic spacers to sit slightly proud again. A few thou' should do it :-)
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Your suggestion is a good one and I considered it. The reason I held off on that idea, was because the top plate is a strange composite structure and I was not sure how thick the bottom section was. The brass/iron interleave structure that you see from the top is nothing like what is present on the bottom. I might still follow your suggestion though, if the Vactra I used between the magnetic pack and top plate gets pushed out and there one again is too much friction to move things effectively. Thanks for a taking the time to share your thoughts.
@douglasthompson27406 жыл бұрын
I wonder if some of the corrosion was due to dissimilar metal as brass and aluminum are a very bad pair when put together and even more so when an electrolyte is introduced (coolant and chips?). Very interesting. Take care. Doug
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Interesting observation. You might be on to something there. Thanks.
@douglasthompson27406 жыл бұрын
Dudley Toolwright The epoxy that broke down might have been acting as an isolator in the design.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Could be. To be honest I could not find an obvious place where the rather large amount of sand like stuff could had come from. The bottom of the magnet pack looked somewhat like the top. I am still puzzled.
@metalworksmachineshop6 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Now i need to go out and check the oil in mine..
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Probably not a bad idea. I am not sure if I should put oil in with the magnet pack or just in the rotating shaft portion. Thanks for the comment.
@chuckturner69846 жыл бұрын
Too bad you couldn't see my finger. I was pointing at that screw the whole time you were looking for it. It was kind of embarrassing when I realized what I was doing.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Funny, I missed that. I need to pay better attention to my viewers. I would waste less time. Thanks for the comment.
@ZenMinus6 жыл бұрын
Me too :-)
@deeremeyer17496 жыл бұрын
But not so embarrassing you didn't "share" it.
@puzzled41634 жыл бұрын
Drill thru from the opposite side of the pins and punch the pins out then fill the holes with epoxy.
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to share your suggestion.
@trebushett20793 жыл бұрын
Its non ferrous, that's why you still have your fingers.
@DudleyToolwright3 жыл бұрын
It is amazing how strong the ceramic magnet pack is. It is definitely something to be careful around.
@victoryfirst28784 жыл бұрын
What exactly does a good price mean in monetary terms ???? Many B and S chucks had aluminum bottoms so that they were fastened with hold downs. This kept the magnet part separate from the bottom part. Making the halved part flat you need to grind it, milling is not the way fella for sure. Where is the silicone lube for the o-ring ??? The old chuck was make when o-rings had more diameter sizes to choose from. The CHINESIUM do not have a clue fella for sure. Nice quick fix on the magnetic chuck D T.
@DudleyToolwright4 жыл бұрын
When I made this video, I did not even have access to a grinder, so I used what I had on hand, but I definitely get your point.
@victoryfirst28784 жыл бұрын
@@DudleyToolwright So nice to give you a heads up on my experience so to help you Dudley. Good day too. V
@MaturePatriot6 жыл бұрын
You gotta clean those things. Is the o-ring to keep liquids out or oil in? Somewhat of a win. Wondered how they worked inside. Good video.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Perhaps both. However the old o-ring allowed all of the oil filled in the control arm to leak out rather quickly.
@deeremeyer17496 жыл бұрын
Might be a good idea to check with the manufacturer and figure out what if anything is supposed to be inside that thing before assuming anything about it as far as what should or should not be inside. There are way more oils that would "eat" the "epoxy" in that thing than "water-based" coolants that are intentionally made as "non-toxic" and "non-corrosive" and compatible with as many "common" plastics and rubbers as possible so they don't react with them in a machine shop full of tools with rubber and plastic parts of all kinds. And when many oils "mix" with a little "distilled water" in the form of condensation, acids get produced that are not at all friendly to many of those rubbers and plastics. Its easier for improper "maintenance" to cause failures/malfunctions/damage in/to "sealed" systems and machines than a "lack" of maintenance period. And its VERY likely that any "sealed" tool like that with an o-ring "positive" seal on the "control arm" is supposed to have some kind of "gasket" between various sections even if that "gasket" is only a gasket-maker compound of some kind like a shellac or plastic "form-a-gasket" or even a super-thin "onion-skin" type gasket. Any and all of which can, when properly installed and "cured" and "sealed" to begin with, look like "crud" on surfaces they seal upon disassembly. Also they're easily "eaten" by various lubricants and acids. That there were broken-off screws in it should tell you that at some point that thing was disassembled or somebody attempted to disassemble it and probably not just to see what was inside. More than likely they were "servicing" it.
@peterciurea77715 жыл бұрын
it's not epoxy. it's held together with copper braze.body and bottom is aluminum, because they cannot be magnetic.the magnet plate just has to pry over by a bit, to break contact. not up and down
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the clarification. Sometimes my narration is me thinking out load. I appreciate your insight.
@scotty3621005 жыл бұрын
The "magnet, is actually epoxied together! The top plate is what is copper brazed together! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXiQYWSsjphpjZI
@peterciurea77713 жыл бұрын
@@DudleyToolwright Also, mine does have oil in it, so when i rebuilt it, i replaced the oil as well.
@seansysig6 жыл бұрын
Shameful how people don't take proper care of quality tools & implements.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Indeed, thanks for the comment.
@jentibhairamani10752 жыл бұрын
Where are you from?
@DudleyToolwright2 жыл бұрын
Southern California, USA.
@jentibhairamani10752 жыл бұрын
Ok
@deeremeyer17496 жыл бұрын
Its not "coolant" getting inside that ruins magnetic chucks. It's constant vibration and blowing off coolant and debris and using magnetic chuck incorrectly and constantly turning it on and off and wearing out the seals and not "changing the oil" periodically and letting moisture in as lubricant leaks/evaporates away that ruins them. There is nothing that's going to let lubricant out that isn't also going to let coolant - which is "emulsified" oil ideally mixed with distilled water - out if it lets it in. And since all "chucks" regardless of type or the machine they're used on wear out and get much more "abuse" and "wear and tear" than the machine they're used on and are FAR "cheaper", properly maintaining/operating the machine itself by making sure to use plenty of coolant is the "cause" of that chuck being "abused". If "coolant" breaks down or damages the "epoxy" that holds any of those internals together, then any "oil" or other lubricant put inside it would as well and particularly petroleum oils which if allowed to mix with water can form acids that will "eat" lots of things water-based coolants will not. The other thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a "good deal" on old, used and worn-out JUNK tools that need to be "restored" or "rebuilt" IF that's even possible much less ones that can only be "repaired" by grinding/scraping/machining even MORE material off them. If you've got the free time and/or money to "rebuild" or "restore" or "repair" old junk tools for a "business" or even a very important and time/money-consuming "hobby" and either demand "quality" tools, there's a good reason you do have the free time to do so and a good reason you won't for long have the spare money to do so if you don't figure out that buying new or at least WORKING and GOOD CONDITION USED TOOLS is ALWAYS the "cheaper" way to go. The reason is that your "good deals' haven't YET bit you in the ass and taught you that "big bills" resulting from not spending a "little" more in the first place to get something "good" instead of just a "good deal". And if you think "vendors" are ANYTHING but "scrappers" who get paid or pay very LITTLE to go into a "factory" or other "shop" full of industrial/commercial tools and haul off the old, worn-out, depreciated-out and WORTHLESS "junk" as SCRAP METAL or who BUY SAME FROM THOSE WHO DO AS "SCRAP METAL" and then SELL SAME as "used tools" for anywhere from "obscene" to "infinite" profits given what they're paying buying that crap per pound or even are being PAID TO HAUL OFF, you're going to get "good dealed" to death either as a business owner OR even a hobbyist because there is no such thing as a good deal on a junk machine and you'll never OWN and OPERATE "cheap" somebody else's "scrap" no matter how little it costs you. P.S. - There is NO SUCH THING as a "permanent magnet" and if you think that "restored" or "rebuilt" magnetic chuck wasn't "scrapped" at least in PART because it was no longer doing its job holding the work it was supposed to hold and THAT isn't a big part of why it was a "good deal" sold by a "vendor", that's just more "education" you're going to pay for at some point. MAGNETISM is not "permanent" unless its the result of ELECTRICITY and every time a piece of ferrous material (key to being "held" by a magnetic chuck) is "held" by a magnetic chuck, the magnets are "weakened" somewhat. At the same time the material itself if slightly magnetized, of course. That's another reason "magnetic chucks" aren't anywhere near "standard" in machining. There are plenty of machines and parts that shouldn't be or can't be "magnetized" during machining and other manufacturing processes without making them "worthless" or at least a "problem" for the customer/end user and "de-gaussing" (i.e. = "de-magnetizing") rarely works completely or permanently. So thinking a magnetic chuck is a "must-have" for machining and using one indiscriminately and especially putting lots of time into "rebuilding" a junk one are all potential "fails" for a beginning "machinist" either going into business or again just as a "hobby".
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking what must have been quite a lot of time to share your views. You make a lot of good points and I appreciate you letting me know your take. I purchased this chuck because I knew very little about how they functioned, except for the theory behind them. I bought it to take it apart and see what design choices were made. I must admit I was amazed at how bad a shape it was in. I think the seller on ebay was being misleading on purpose and I wanted to call them out. I was never expecting a tool in great shape for the $60 I paid, but I think they could have at least come out and say the mechanism was seized. Instead they claimed they knew nothing about the tool at all. Your points are well taken and if I was looking for a deal, I did not find one. However, I did learn a lot. and the chuck works alright. Thanks again for taking so much time to express your ideas.
@Mike-sp7ru6 жыл бұрын
The plastic inserts lignin up to break the magnetic field
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
I gathered that, but before I machined them down to make remove the corrosion, they were proud above the surface by quite a few thousandths. All are now flush. Spacing the magnets slightly out of contact of the iron on the top surface, reduces the magnetic field a bit. This would also serve to reduce the friction between the magnet pack and the top surface. I am only speculating about the design intentions though.
@Mike-sp7ru6 жыл бұрын
Dudley Toolwright Not knowing the mind of designers, I get to rebuild the mag chucks for out shop, lucky me, anyway not only is there a back and forth motion, but there is a vertical moment as well. The lever should have a Caming action. Good job cleaning it up.
@402outdoorzx55 жыл бұрын
Aluminum on steel corrodes fast
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
Good point. Add water and you have dissimilar metal electromigration. Thanks for the heads up.
@hilltopmachineworks21316 жыл бұрын
Poor chuck never saw any preventive maintenance.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Very sad. After shooting the video, I wondered if they never even conceived that ther was a path for coolant to get into the vise. The machining on the mating surfaces was pretty course and no room for gaskets. Thanks for the comment.
@deeremeyer17496 жыл бұрын
Or maybe somebody did "service" it but improperly/ignorantly and instead of "protecting" the chuck from coolant "ingress" just made it inevitable. Any seal that will keep "lubricant" in will keep "coolant" out. And its not uncommon for something like "shellac" to be used as a sealant in something like that and in the process of "servicing" the unit it ends up getting removed by somebody convinced they're removing "corrosion" or "contamination" before they end up putting the unit back together "unsealed". And there are PLENTY of gaskets that are MORE THAN THIN ENOUGH to properly seal those "rough" surfaces. "Onion-skins" is what they're typically called and they're used in between precision-machined surfaces that are "rough" for a reason and can't be "precision ground" smooth because "precision grinding" - regardless of WHAT countless internet "expert" machinists claim - INVARIABLY results in parts that are no longer "flat" since GRINDING STONES ARE GROUND AWAY AS THEY GRIND and never stay the SAME SIZE during a grinding operation. Parts truly "precision ground" or rather PRECISION HONED/LAPPED/POLISHED since those processes produce WAY "smoother" and FLATTER surfaces usually don't NEED gaskets or other sealants period because they're "smooth" enough that when mated the "gaps" left where the "peaks and valleys" of ANY and ALL surfaces don't provide "paths" for any fluids to pass through. If the surfaces on that CHUCK are that "rough" that should tell you what manufacturers of "precision" machine tools and other tools for machining/work holding etc think of "precision grinding". That it is only good for producing a specific "surface finish" and in "one-pass" operations over surfaces that don't have to be and often are intentionally not "flat" from "end to end". Its also possible that magnetic chuck was never DESIGNED for "wet work" and that it was just sitting outside or in some non-temperature-controlled "cave" of a warehouse/factory until the "scrap man"...I mean "vendor" hauled it off or maybe after he/she hauled it off or both where it got "hot" and "cold" and "damp" and "dry" and ended up with a dozen or two drops of condensation inside that it was "ruined". Water is the "universal solvent" and the "cause" of the overwhelming majority of "rusty" and "corroded" and "oxidized" parts. "Coolant" is usually "emulsified oil" mixed with DISTILLED water and generally is "non-toxic" and "non-corrosive" since it's pretty much everywhere in a "machine shop" and has to be compatible with and safe for all manner of plastics including "epoxies". Its also worth mentioning that since you have multiple metals and vibration and heat/cool cycles a "dry" chuck could even be "ruined" by the presence of a little condensation and GALVANIC ACTION. That powdery white substance that fell out during disassembly looked a lot like the kind of "chlorides" that go with galvanic action. And STAINLESS STEEL is HORRIBLE for galvanic action" because its a mixture OF ferrous and non-ferrous metals itself and when put in contact with non-ferrous metals its own non-ferrous metals are "augmented by" to the point of being much closer to equilibrium with the ferrous metals, it's a SPECTACULAR corrosion and "acid" producer. That's the other thing good old plain condensation water is good at producing. Acids. Especially if its "distilled" water as ALL condensation is. Distilled water is "pure" and doesn't contain "dissolved solids" so it readily "eats" any metals it can dissolve. Which is pretty much all ferrous metals or more specifically iron which is the primary component of steel which is the primary component of stainless steel. So overall, the possibility that "poor" or "non-existent" so-called "maintenance" is the cause of that chuck being the piece of scrap metal crap it is probably isn't as good as it being the result of "maintenance" that left the chuck "unprotected" when improper "maintenance" made it the lubricant leaking, coolant leaking mess you claim it is because of the leakage you claim doomed it but yet did nothing in this video to prevent if you're interested in keeping ALL moisture out of it. Especially if you don't make sure you know what you're doing including what "lubricant" its supposed to contain (if any) and also what the manufacturer's recommendations for "service" and "repair" actually are. Because as a long-time diesel mechanic, I've seen plenty of "doomed" machines from both a complete "lack of maintenance" AND "improper maintenance" when improper lubricants were used. Plenty of would-be "tool maintenance specialists" will drain lubricants and refill with whatever is handy or some "substitute" supposedly the "same thing" or "better" per some "expert" or another and end up replacing perfectly "good" but "nasty" old lubricant compatible with the machine itself with new, clean CRAP that's only going to destroy it. I've seen hydraulic oils that were "safe" for certain machines per their "specs" as far as viscosity, anti-wear and "detergent" properties but that "eat" the paint some manufacturers use INSIDE their transmissions/differentials/hydraulic systems to prevent corrosion and oxidation of "bare metal" if they ever sit either "bone dry" or even "flooded" for days at a time. Farm and construction equipment commonly get "flooded" and it would take weeks to "disassemble" and "clean" and "flush" all parts of the "flood water" so "clean out" procedures are used to "recover" flooded machines and if there is no internal rust/corrosion the machine is "good as new" without having to be "gutted". Some "quality" lubricant manufacturers make their products "cheap" by skipping steps like refining all the sulfur and other acid-forming (when mixed with water which ALL systems end up containing some of because...condensation) stuff out of their lubricants and when they're used in any system with "non-standard" materials like "paints" inside can end up "eating" that paint or rather "stripping" it and plastering sump screens and/or filters with it causing hydraulic system "issues" in the short-term and corrosion/oxidation "issues" in the long-term. But yet some people would rather do maintenance "on schedule" and "by the book" even if takes using "cheap" and "handy" substitutes that are substitutes and are "cheap" because they aren't the "real thing" the manufacturer uses/recommends rather than what the manufacturer recommends and usually sells and that is ALWAYS what is BEST for a machine. So I wouldn't climb TOO high on your "Mr. Maintenance" pedestal unless you're sure what you're doing to "repair" or "rebuild" or "restore" that chuck is actually addressing the real "issues" and you're not screwing up as bad if not worse than previous users. And stop acting like somebody "trashed" a tool that if only "properly maintained" would be in "perfect" condition and therefore probably OUT OF YOUR "PRICE RANGE" AT LEAST AS FAR AS "GOOD DEALS" GO. You didn't BUY a quality, properly maintained and good condition used tool although if you had that's what you'd have now but wouldn't have content for a video you're probably making or are hoping to make a "profit" on. And you shouldn't expect to get "good tools" for "cheap" if you have any kind of clue anyway and wouldn't be buying used junk if you wanted/needed good quality tools "good to go" and apparently don't have the desire/need FOR good quality good-to-go tools and DO have the "free time" for "projects" like this so you more than got what you paid for. And don't expect anyone with a clue to feel sorry for that inanimate object tool OR you for buying it. You're the one buying old junk and more than likely "scrapped" tools from "vendors" so I'd be careful talking smack about other "users" of that tool in the past who may have done exactly what you're doing or think you're doing and "serviced" the tool right into scrap condition.
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a lot of interesting information. You know the powdery stuff that poured out of the inside of this chuck was a lot like dried shellac. Interesting. I did not notice anything sealing the interface between the bottom section and the top, but I could have missed something. My comments were not intended to sound like complaining rather an observation of what was probably a nice tool neglected. If I came off that way, I apologize. I used vactra way lube between the top plate and the magnet pack because that is what I have. It is really tenacious stuff, so I hoped it would stay in place, but it might very well not. Finally, I do not have surface grinder, nor do I hard ever use coolant (probably a fault), so I was not worried about sealing this chuck from the elements. At most, it might see some time on my mill to do light cuts on thin parts. Thanks for spending a lot of your personal time to share your thoughts and take on my video. I really appreciate constructive criticism and I am sure others will benefit as well.
@chriselliott7265 жыл бұрын
@@deeremeyer1749 Mr Angry just discovered the quotation mark key on the keyboard?? Always best to try and be at least a little positive and encouraging, not everyone can be as smart as you.
@osgeld6 жыл бұрын
interesting a swedish company would not be using SAE o-rings ...
@DudleyToolwright6 жыл бұрын
You think the Brown and Sharpe magnetic vise was made in Sweden? I looked them up on the Wikipedia and sure enough they are owned by a Swedish metrology company, interesting. Maybe there roots go deep?
@kennethkustren93815 жыл бұрын
You need to learn ELECTROLYSIS... DIY.... VERY SIMPLE.... CAR BATTERY CHARGER, A PAIL OF WATER, AND 1/4 CUP OF BORAX, A SACRIFICIAL CHUNK OF IRON OR STEEL. BRASS ?? I'VE SEEN COPPER SEPARATIONS ALSO
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate it.
@AC-tm1ob5 жыл бұрын
This guy cries too much! Ay is in bad shape bla bla bla! Just do it! Not need to be a machinist to see tha magnet needs serious repair
@DudleyToolwright5 жыл бұрын
Fair point, but I am not really a machinist, but a serious hobbyist. By the way, I was a bit miffed because the ebay auction said this item was in good working condition. It wasn't. Thanks for the comment.
@drewdoestrucks5 ай бұрын
I have a much smaller one of these but it doesn’t seem as strong as I think it should be. The lever moves freely.
@DudleyToolwright5 ай бұрын
I get it. One thing to remember is that max magnetic attraction only happens if the material is thick enough. Magnets can also get weaker over time.