Dump & Run Fork Oil Change for Standard Adjustable Motorcycle Forks

www.DaveMossTuning.com
Fork oil wears out just like engine oil. Changing it every 5000 miles (8000 km) is excellent, every 8000 (13,000 km) is good, every 10,000 (16,000 km) is okay, and by 12,000 (20,000 km) it's become more like fork water than fork oil.
www.DaveMossTuning.com

[@bluewickedburner]

This video lets anyone who thinks this is voodoo go right to it and get it done. Bravo to David Moss. This man has given more and done more for motorcycling enjoyment than any highly paid shops. I hope he knows just how much he is appreciated.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for taking the time to post and I sincerely appreciate your kind words. Comments like your let me know the content and knowledge provide dis appreciated.

[@bikerboi1983]

did my forks today with your method and wow what a difference and such an easy job. cheers Dave!

[@Pstaines439]

Bloody brilliant. Exactly what I needed for a quick first fluid change on my forks. Thanks!

[@dadboddamien]

I'll be doing this on my 954 this week. Thanks Dave for making such informative videos to help demystify the black magic that is suspension work.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for watching! GA tip of my hat to you for getting this done!

[@aaahillshandyman..bellavis864]

As always Dave, comprehensive how to with common sense.👍

[@kerinokkanmarakalleyyy2072]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nprHmXWOe91kjqc

[@Sugarstar8262]

Wow! 10 Years ago I had to rebuild my forks every year, because they were leaking. Massive amount of work because I pulled everything apart. Now I think I know my problem. I didn't pushed the air out of the inner cardrige and stored the forks horizontal till I needed them. Big thanks to Dave Moss! I wish we had someone with your skill in Germany who's doing the same service to costumers.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Glad that in time you now understand what happened and why so next time, you will get the job 100% right.

[@Sugarstar8262]

@@catalystreactionsbw I've been watching a lot of your Videos the last few days and I do understand more and more of my mistakes I've done over the years.

[@ross5506]

I remember doing this every season back late 70- 80s using ATF fluid as fork oil. Work out quite well.

[@dddon513]

I've never once seen a fork disassembly vid where the mechanic uses a plastic tool for separating the dust cap. It's so easy to slip or otherwise have an oops with a screwdriver and either scratch the inner leg or mark up the bottom of the outer leg. For $5 you can buy a set of car trim panel tools which are plastic and never worry about having an accident.

[@PERTHSCOOTER07]

Great video. Giving the home mechanic confidence to work in his/her own machine.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks 👍

[@111jkjk]

I did my first dump and run thanks to Dave and Dave. 🤓

[@catalystreactionsbw]

How did it go and what were the end results?

[@111jkjk]

@@catalystreactionsbw It went well thank you. The old oil was gross and smelly. The front doesnt dive and feels more secure. Now that I have this method I will be doing it often.

[@timsilva1944]

Good tutorial. Call me crazy, but with the amount of glitter in that oil, I'd disassemble it and clean it up proper. It's not rocket science. Oil was dumped out, but that metal was at the bottom, so there's still more inside, likely in the piston/shim stack. The owner of that bike would be well served to clean the fork tubes as much as his tank or exhaust. 😅

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Agreed..... nothing better than a full tear down to know everything is clean and fully fiunctioning.

[@XRedJar]

Another great how to!! With that much silver in the fork oil, there is no way I let mine go over 5k. All those metal bits can't be good for seals and valves. Thanks Dave!!

[@flinch622]

Correct. What came out was... lapping compound.

[@mikeca98]

Thank you Mr. Moss. Great hands-on video. Your remote consultations are definitely on my to do list for my two bikes.

[@marinob7433]

Dave is awesome! a real pro in his field. thanks dave for your time and vids.

[@Desertduleler_88]

Great demonstration showing minor fork servicing, l’ve learned a lot already from your expertise.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Great to hear!

[@sstressfl]

Thanks for this!!! I needed your wisdom to finish my own forks! God bless you my friend.

[@loner6n239]

Great tutorial! Thanks Dave! You make the job look easy... Cheers from Neuquén, Argentina!

[@torreserven1070]

Aye this video taught me how to fish! Incredible content guys! Thank you!!

[@zAqRpS13]

Thank you, Dave! And Dave! I will be working on my forks next weekend.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Excellent - please share what you did and the results!

[@karlalton3170]

Thanks Dave just what i needed to know for my Showa forks on my CRF250M Motard 😁😁👍👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Excellent - glad it inspired you to get the job done right.

[@nightfury6836]

You guys are amazing!!! I love this channel. Great knowledge and great delivery 🔥😎

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanbk you - glad you are enjoying the content!

[@chrisusmcvet3435]

Guessing this doesn’t work on a 2016 Multistrada Enduro 1200. Another great vid Dave.

[@joanesinu]

I used the 400 grit sand paper to sanded down the dirt on the forks and now they have a lot of scraches... I don't know if that's really a bad thing. Instead of sand paper use abrasive rubber which is much more gentle with delicate surfaces.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The fork dust and oil seal will polish all those marks out very quickly.

[@SteveGuevara-x7p]

I think he used a different grit to after using 400 grit. not sure what it is.. same thing happen to me. I heard 2000 works too. thanks for the tip.

[@seb81123]

So I just checked a 2020 bike owners manual - their standard procedure indicates fork first oil change at 40k kilometers (read the line twice and could not believe it ) ... so roughly never - not good I guess. Direction column bearing balls check and greasing happens at 10k ... no comment . Thanks Dave for sharing your expertise and making us getting some “esprit critique” ...

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for doing some research to give yourself data points to review.

[@PetersPowersports]

I have been looking for the past 2 hors to find a video that talks about getting rid of the sticky fork seals and you guys answered it. Stiction is the word and I am super excited to try the greasing method. Thank you guys and excellent video!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you very much for the kind words and I am grateful that this video provided all the information that you needed.

[@1stgreasemonkey]

you make that look easy...I did seals on my FZR, wasn't even close to easy.now that I've put 300 miles on her I realise it needs better springs.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Did you use propane to warm up the seal area first? It helps tremendously.

[@mikeskidmore6754]

I think I would have sprayed some penetrating oil on that rust before sanding it.. and would have tried 600 grit first..

[@dancarlton7712]

Shouldn't you use steel wool instead of 400 grit sandpaper on the chrome finish on the forks? I could see from here in michigan you scratched them up.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

It is how I was taught in 1995 when I first started in a suspension shop and have stayed with that. After a few hundred miles the chrome is perfect again. For others it can be crocus cloth, wire wool, 1000 grit emery cloth. Many ways to get an excellent result.

[@bccapone837]

when doing fork seals and changing oil is it good practice to back off all adjusters to the softest position first and if I don't are there any bad outcomes

[@catalystreactionsbw]

That is a good idea so you get maximum irculation to eliminate oil. Not doign this just makes the process a couple of minutes longer.

[@notamotorbikemechanic]

Awesome going to do my speed triple forks 👍🏍

[@ferrisnox]

What if the last person put the wrong amount in? You just keep copying the mistake?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

True - that's why you consult the service manual or go to the tech section of that brand and model bike for the needed information. Then you can choose what to do from there based on 100% accurate information.

[@dbtrackz33]

Will wait for a BPF how to. 2015 ZX6R Thanks for sharing I’m watching it anyways.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

That will be coming up in about a month.

[@algirdasmackevicius2200]

I love how the accent keeps switching

[@petev.9357]

Love your videos! I'll be doing the dump and run every winter now! Greasing the seals for stiction. How long does it last? How often to do it? Can you over do it?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes you can overdo it hence using grease sparingly. I do it in March normally, then check end of July when we are in the meat of Summer in California.

[@AndrewBoundy]

I guess using the measurement of the removed oil assumes the last guy did it right and there's been no loss? Is it best to refer to the manual or would that quantity assume a complete (to dry) service? Thanks for the video - I always learn lots.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Correct - always check service manual first for known volume, then decide what you want to do.

[@LongDogRacing]

@@catalystreactionsbw , but the service manual, for my 2007 CBR600RR for example, only gives an oil height reference while the fork is without the spring, so the only way I know how much to pour back in is to try and capture everything that comes out... unless you tell me something otherwise...? right? Thank you!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@LongDogRacing In that case (as you cannot remove cap, spacer and spring) yes, you capture the volume of oil removed to see what you have. Research online shows 400ml as a minimum or oil height at 100mm. Ride and see how much fork travel you use and mark fork bottom out as a reference. If you bottom out add more preload and compression. If you bottom out again add 25ml per leg and go back to original settings.

[@LongDogRacing]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave. I recovered 350ml from each of the forks (yes, every last drop!), and replaced it with the exact amount. I will ride them and heed your advice. Thank you for all you do!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@LongDogRacing My pleasure!

[@Jenny-u4j]

will it work for a 2015+ R1 with KYB fork? if yes that's on my to-do-list in the next winter 😁

[@catalystreactionsbw]

In principle yes.

[@NZsarge1]

Excellent how to, will be sharing

[@Mrenjoy92]

Thank you for sharing , really helpfull!

[@TherealBigJohnSt33l]

Thanks Dave!

[@stefanomanzoni7157]

Thank you Mr. Moss, your insight is invaluable. I read through all the comments and had most of my questions answered, so thanks to your followers. I'm a newbie to motorcycle maintenance and have one more question and that is, supporting the bike when you remove the forks. It looks like you have the bike resting on its exhaust pipes supported by 2x4 lumber. Is that what you've done? I assume that, if that's what you do, it must be OK for the bike. Is that a safe assumption? Thanks again.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for watching and leveraging the content. You observation is accurate. If the bike had titanium headers we would have held the bike up by engine cases.

[@stefanomanzoni7157]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for your response. I'm setting up a 2006 R6 for the track so I'll be watching a lot.

[@dylancrow7919]

How about closed cartridge dual chambers?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

There's a video on those forks for my CRF450X.

[@bradthompson6028]

Thank you, Dave. Great video! Will this work on my 2014 KTM Adventure 1190 with the electronic adjustable setup?

[@haselmauschef]

Very interesting, if you have to do an Oil change on the Fork, I guess you also have to perform an oil change on the rear shock? If not, why? (Dave taught me to play 4 year old kid and ask that) And is there a video or some source of information out there where Dave explains that? Thanks in advance guys, I really appreciate your videos and all the valuable informations that you share.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes - ask the question! Fork oil change is 2 x shock oil for track, or same time for street. 8k miles, 11k kilometers.

[@scottgrant9582]

Great work buds

[@thomasbartlett3409]

Great informational video Dave and thanks for posting....I'm about to change the original oil in my 2003 Honda Valkyrie f6 1500C with 34000 miles. Going to use BelRay Motorcycle Oil 99330-B1LW..15W instead of Pro Honda SS8 10W...... thoughts.??? Also, dirt and debris gets past the dust shield and into the seal. An occasional cleaning using plastic film or plastic fork cleaner tool seems to do the trick..

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Thomas. Thanks for your kind words. A seal saver type product is superb at what it does. 15w BelRay is an excellent choice!

[@thomasbartlett3409]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you so much for the fast reply and have a great weekend..! Best Tom

[@vadimco6154]

Good afternoon. Tell me, is it correct to change the oil in the fork without removing the spring and bushing? What does it threaten? The manual says they should always be removed.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

It risks nothing and decreases wear of bushings especially if you let them drain overnight. If you feel you MUST follow the manual, that is quite normal.

[@drjdvm]

Hi Dave. Thanks for the video. I have a 2018 KTM 1090 Adventure R with compression and pre-load on one fork cap and rebound and pre-load on the other. 25,000 miles and I am doing the first fork oil change. I dumped out 620 ml from each fork but the manual calls for 715 ml in each leg. Is there a problem with just putting the recommended amount of 715 back into each fork leg? I am fairly certain I drained all the oil out using the method you described. Thanks again for the great video.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi John. If you pumped the caps to empty the cartridges and drained it for 24 hours and 620ml came out, then I would put 700ml back in.

[@drjdvm]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave. Did pump the forks extensively until only a very few drops were present. Did not let it drain for 24 hours though.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@drjdvm Go with 700ml.

[@Leri0th]

Whats the procedure for the BPF?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

1. Open the cap. wait 30 minutes for the oil to drain or actively pump the fork to extract oil. Small holes = very long drain times and removing the cap does not help. 2. Filling time is the same process, slow and patient. Fork cap has to be pumped many times to push oil past the piston.

[@emmanuelgonzalez-jk7mk]

Questions Dave. I have a 2012 s1000rr, and the manual says I need to add 602ml of fluid and 90ml of air gap.The manual doesn't say, but is it 602ml and 90 air gap with no parts inside or with all the internals in spring cartridge, etc. Thanks so much for all your video.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

It is with cartridge only inside. Spring and spacers not in the fork.

[@christianalvarez1188]

Thank you !!

[@andrewsrtv]

Do you have a video for replacement of both bushing inside the fork?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes if the forks are what is called bash apart. The CBR600RR video has that process in it. If the fork upper tube comes off in your hand, those bushing are captive and you need to buy a new upper. Not expensive. Otherwise a suspension shop "might" have the very special tool needed to attempt to get the bushings out.

[@socks2441]

will this work on the stock kyb adjustable USD forks on my 2001 Honda CR125?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, absolutely. Give them 24 hours to drain if the oil has not been changed in a long time.

[@DylanGSXR]

What is the video called about air gag/ oil level. I'm having trouble at moment with new cartridges, air gap was 190 from the spec sheet from maxton . I'm bottoming out ,so I've put 20ml more oil more preload and a bit more comp . Now I'm still going to the bottom but got 2mm static sag and 20mm rider ,22mm so way to stiff .I can't work it out .was going to put 50 ml more oil change air gap to 110mm and put back to original settings . I'm a member of your online group so I'd like to watch any videos on oil level . regards Dylan

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Dylan. Thanks for supporting what I do via your subscription. 2mm static sag means the spacer is way too long. 20mm is generally a minimum number. Sag at 22mm with 2mm static and you are bottoming means your spring is massively too soft. Oil level at 190 is for race use generally and you do not talk about preload nor compression (where are you in the range?). Before adding oil, we need to know if that is the right direction that will yield a solution. Email me with all this as a copy & paste: [e-mail]

[@DylanGSXR]

@@catalystreactionsbw I've emailed you on davemoss tuning . Thanks 👍

[@kevinsoto7878]

Do you have to make sure you take out all the preload, rebound, and compression from the fork before removing the cap? Or can you just leave the settings you have?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

1. Record all your settings and the "Click, Turns and Faces" video addresses that and how to do it. 2. If you remove the cap, there is a video on that and yes, there is a process that you have to follow. 3. If you are just changing the oil, preload will stay the same and if you use the same brand and viscosity, you turn TEN and COM half a turn left to account for the new oil. .

[@kevinsoto7878]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you so much for the reply Dave! Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge with all of us, it is truly appreciated!

[@greydog1104]

What causes the grey metal in the oil? Also was the sanding done to remove sticktion?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

A 260mm long spring cannot keep its shape when it is compressed over 80-100mm. In deforming, it scrapes on the inside of the fork tube generating very small amounts of silver debris on up and down strokes. The sanding is helpful with reducing stiction - greasing the seals reasonably regularly helps as well (separate video for that).

[@greydog1104]

@@catalystreactionsbw very interesting, hopefully this isn't a big deal for road riding because my fork oil is 10 years old.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@greydog1104 The big deal is the viscosity difference cold to hot especially if you live in a 4 season climate. So, please save your fork oil in a jar and let it settle to see how much metal settles out.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@greydog1104 Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Oh yeah, huge deal. If you go out and push on your forks (hold the front brake and push hard on your forks to simulate a big bump in the road) your front will bounce like a pogo stick. That's what it's doing through every corner and you don't realize it because you've just adapted to it. Change the oil (service the shock too, a shop will have to do that), then setup the suspension properly and you will weep with joy.

[@greydog1104]

I'm starting to understand now there is a lot to do maintaining a motorcycle. Thanks for video.

[@muhashsanjofy8951]

Does this work for Forks if it has leaked out from the bottom screw?

[@muhashsanjofy8951]

What I mean is the remaining oil is not going to be the same as it should be. I can top it up to the level recommended in the manual after draining or should I open it up all the way?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@muhashsanjofy8951 1. You can top it up based on the manual. depends on oil age and how much has been lost. A small top up is not too much to worry about eg: 50ml.

[@briancullip2009]

Dave, thanks for the video! Can you clarify one thing for me? What were you doing at 11:12-11:17 when you turned the cap backwards until you heard the click?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you. Seating the threads correctly so they do not cross or become an issue.

[@andrechagas4549]

You're the man!

[@KillSwitch80]

Well.. I know what I’m doing this weekend! 😄

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Please share your experiences to pay it forward!!!

[@DmanGuitar327]

How often should for oil be changed for a bike that does.. 3500km per year w 3 track days? I had my forks rebuilt 3000km ish ago w fresh kyb 5w

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Rule of thumb for advanced group is 12 track days or 3-5 track days and 2,000+ kms. The viscosity difference is still relatively small at that point.

[@DmanGuitar327]

@@catalystreactionsbw well my plan was to change at the end of next season (i do about 3500km per season w 3 track days or so) so by end of next year i will have about 6500 - 7000km and 6 track days on the fluid.. was gonna change after that.?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@DmanGuitar327 You can change with a frequency that makes sense to you. The faster you go the more you depend on the forks, so assess if you have to sustain bar pressure to get the bike to the apex. If you do and rebound is not far away from maximum setting, change quicker.

[@DmanGuitar327]

@@catalystreactionsbw thx dave awesome.. yeah i dont need to maintain bar pressure like that (that i know of) but like youve seen im close to maxxing out preload.. so i think im on a good interval)

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

I have a question. On my closed cartridge dirt bike forks it says 200 ml inner cartridge and 325ml outer chamber. Using this method would I pour 525ml in the outer chamber and then use the pumping method with the cap screwed in to achieve filling the inner chamber and have the outer at 325ml?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

With dual chamber forks, you have to do oil in the inner cartridge first. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fneZn5polt2WbJY

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks very much. 😀👍

[@juanmueses1110]

Thanks Dave!, I'll be doing this soon. I have a question about air gap. Does this dump and go assume that the air gap has been set via the amount of oil that's been removed. In other words, putting back the same amount of oil that was removed means the air gap is the same and doesn't need to be set?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

That is correct. If you want to assess volume, compare with the service manual to see if you have more or less.

[@juanmueses1110]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you very much, I'll do that

Hi Dave, regards from Colombia South America. Any time have you used small amount of fresh oil to flush the system before refill? Is it good? Not necessary? Successes! Thanks for share!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

There are many ways to do this, the two most popular being kerosene or oil flush. The right thing to do would be a strip clean of every component but very have have that capability.

[@baecchi4153]

oh the smell of the used front fork oil .. just like the sewer 😆

[@lordofbasement]

I have a klick noise when i try to bent my inner to the outer fork pipe on my 3k miles Honda Africa Twin. Is this little play normal? Comes it from the bushings?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Ys, there should be 1-2mm of free play with the fork tub and bushings if you move the bottom of the fork.

[@lordofbasement]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you Sir!

[@user-sp8eb6iz7f]

Do you have to use expensive sweet smelling "Maxima" types, or will regular hydraulic fluid, or ATF work?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

ATF is generally 30w, so if your application can use that correctly, sure.

[@user-sp8eb6iz7f]

@@catalystreactionsbw ATF fluid weight Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is approx 10wt.Mar 26, 2011 Posted April 19, 2009 ATF and power steering is 10W and so is most hydraulic oil. I prefer Dexron II or III the additives package is very good. I am currently using ATF in my forks (which runs at roughly 10-15W according to BWB) and they work fine for me. Where did you get the 30 wt info?? Thanks

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@user-sp8eb6iz7f If that is the case, you need to check Viscosity index and cSt number for the oil and then compare to Maxima/Motul etc data to see where it fits in. There are many very detailed fork oil viscosity charts that can be found via Google.

[@karansawhney2906]

Is this also applicable to DDC forks. Dynamic damping control

[@catalystreactionsbw]

DDC forks have oil in the fork for lubrication of parts. The actual damping is done by a sealed chamber so if you wanted a true change the cartridge would need to be opened and fresh oil installed. I do not know (at this time) of a company that services the DDC cartridge itself. Perhaps other do and will post up.

[@kevindavies5978]

I have a set of forks that have bin neglected for years and the fork oil was thick and sludgey can I use a solvent to wash out the fork leg or a thin oil to flush it out. The bike is a Honda mtx 125

[@catalystreactionsbw]

You can use kerosene, WD40 or parts cleaning solution

[@chriswood77]

Hi Dave. Really helpful video thanks. Just in the middle of doing my forks. Only managed to get 510ml out of each fork leg but the manufacturers recommendation is 602ml. What amount should I put back in?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you. Normally you get almost all the oil out and there is a 25cc difference. Always put back in the amount you took out unless you are going to set a very specific oil level.

[@chriswood77]

Thanks for replying so quickly. Just wondering why I wasn’t able to get the majority of the 602ml out? It’s a 2010 S1000rr.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@chriswood77 Unusual - perhaps someone had changed the oil before you and chose a different volume?

[@chriswood77]

Only had the bike for 3 months and not been able to ride it much due to current lockdown rules. It’s only done 7000 miles so that’s why I’m changing the oil. Just wondering what to do now. Would the lower oil level make you think that the previous owner has been changing the setup? I’m only 12 stone but had to wind preload fully in to get correct sag. Could this have been a lighter rider wanting a softer spring and greater air gap?

[@tamishagroves7281]

Mr. Moss this Tyrone. Im looking to just change my fork oil in my fork tubes. I bought PJ 1 Fork Oil 5WGT extra light from Griffin Motor Sports i want 2 know using method here of emptying out old bad fork oil can i use said method an it gets out all of the old oil so im not messing with any screws in lower portion of fork

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, just use the process in this video to get the old oil out, measured and new oil in.

[@JoeSXR]

Hello, how does this process differ to your video for Gsxr 1000 k3 to k8? Which one do I need? What weight should I use?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Joe. What year and model do you have? What is your weight?

[@fmtz8746]

Should the preload be removed and rebound/compound valves open?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you feel that is best, yes.

[@a.leeyin9721]

quick question about pre load adjustment. I was adjusting the preload on my K7 GSXR1000 after watching another one of your vids, the right hand side was easy enough and actually got easier when it got close to fully open but the left hand side got really difficult to open fully to the point where I damaged the nut on top from banging it open forcefully, any clue why it would be so tough/stiff?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Sorry to read that the left side was an issue to the point of damaging the nut. If that is an issue, normally something is misplaced internally, so you might want to unscrew the fork cap from the tube then slide it down and take a look inside.

[@pargatsinghchandi5381]

Why the Fork Oil

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Like an engine it needs changing and in doing so, the right oil grade is essential.

[@gueroloco6334]

400cc? Is that specific to that fork or is that standard for all forks?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Every fork has a different volume based on what is in the service manual data. You can also choose your own fork oil level.

[@AE-dq9kt]

best dave. manual español??

[@MrBoomtheroom]

is it ok to do this on my 2010 s1000rr 30,000 ks on clock

[@jasonubarretto]

I have ohlins gold forks on my monster 12s. What fork oil is stock weight on it? Can I use another brand as I read ohlins have different weight compared to other brands? Thank you Dave

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Maxima 5w

[@jasonubarretto]

Wonderful I'll go I little heavier maybe 7.5 as I'm bottoming it out on maximum preload and compression on my riding style. I'm just 165 pounds but I brake heavy on corners and trail brake a lot. Or stiffer springs but I need a quick fix so oil?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@jasonubarretto Yes, oil volume will be the quick fix for now so you leverage the air spring effect

[@SantiSpeed1]

What could that metal have been coming from?

[@SantiSpeed1]

Was there an O-ring on the inside that needed to be changed?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Metal in the forks comes from the spring deforming on every up and down movement. In a brand new set of forks over three days at a race weekend for a very fast rider, we extracted 0.5mm of metal shavings. After several thousands of miles or kilometers, the amount of metal turns the oil silver.

[@SantiSpeed1]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you! I’m an auto mechanic so I was trying to thing what component in a shock is metal to metal. Didn’t even think about the spring

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@SantiSpeed1 In a fork with 50,000kms on it, we had 150cc of metal in 400cc of oil. We actually had a "flight" of fork oils to show how much metal settled out of them.

[@dbtrackz33]

BPF, SFF (separate function fork) on my 2015 ZX6R, do you have a tutorial for that ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

In many 2 Clicks Out videos we show how to dial in different types of forks from BPF to SFF to Balance Free suspension. Simply select the model bike with that suspension on it and follow through all the settings. Sag is the same no matter what suspension system you have, as is rebound for chassis balance. Compression needs more attention based on riding style.

[@dbtrackz33]

@@catalystreactionsbw I was interested in the dump n run procedure for those forks, not the tuning.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@dbtrackz33 Thanks for the clarification, and we do have a BPF video. I do not have a Balance free video nor SFF unfortunately. I will add that to the list for new content.

[@dbtrackz33]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you sir. I'll get into that when I do the dump on mine. Happy Holidays.

[@nycmotoblog913]

can i do this on the mt10

[@catalystreactionsbw]

100% yes - takes more time as you have a different style of forks - BPF.

[@mki203]

Very good tutorial Dave. Thank you ! I have a question regarding an extra step that could fit between the drain and the refill of the fork. Would it be considered "overkill" if after we completely drain the fork (as per video instructions) we put back aprox 300ml of fresh oil/fork tube, tighten the fork cap, pump it so that oil gets in the cartidge and drain it again so that every little bit of dirty oil is flushed ? Of course this means that we waste aprox. 600 ml of oil on the complete fork. Is it worth doing this? Thanks.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If your brain says that helps, it helps. Some use kerosene, some use contact cleaner and the list goes on. Getting something cleaner is never overkill.

[@mki203]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for clearing that up for me.

[@robertwhite9013]

What mileage should a oil change be done!?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Fork and and shock every 8-10,000 miles

[@AaronRiegel]

This is great!

[@garytaylor1974]

hi, what weight oil should i use on my 2004 R1 for road riding, I am a new rider so not a fast rider

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Gary, with that bike 10w in a hot climate or 7.5w in a cooler climate. Use the same volume as you remove.

[@garytaylor1974]

@@catalystreactionsbw thanks, im in the UK so I guess cooler, also can I flush the fork with something before I refill with fresh oil and if yes what can I use. thanks again

[@taliesinangling3564]

8:26 Did nobody catch that 😂

[@borscheproductions3077]

Will this method work for s1000rr ddc forks? (2017) I think it should, but would like more info

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The spring leg is no problem at all. The damping leg is a sealed cartridge so you are changing the outer chamber only.

[@borscheproductions3077]

Dave Moss Tuning i’ve been wondering about cartridge(ddc) - in theory i can plug damping fork leg back to wiring harness, turn key on, pump it, drain oil. Does it make sense? or BMW’s cartridge might get damaged by that? As always, thanks for responses 🤙

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@borscheproductions3077 Sealed cartridges need special tools to take them apart to change the oil. Plugging it back in will not pump oil out unfortunately.

[@lhefou]

@@catalystreactionsbw to clarify, does this method work and is it OK to follow it for the damping leg even if it only changes the oil outside the cartridge and not inside, correct? How important is it to also change the cartridge oil? Thank you for sharing this level of insight, it is much appreciated.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@lhefou DDC leg is a sealed cartridge so you need special tools.

[@marcodimaio3087]

Dave&Dave everything amazing as always!!, I have a question..if I replace the oli with a slightly thicker one will my compression and rebound “clicks” be more effective?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Marco. You go to thicker oil if you are close to maximum on settings with new oil specified by the manufacturer. The upgrade then sets you closer to the middle with compression and rebound settings.

[@marcodimaio3087]

Dave Moss Tuning thank you Dave!, is exactly where I’m with my s1000rr!! I’ll do that, your name should have been Ernesto cause you’re the besto 👍👍👍

[@ross5506]

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for video, with these common forks you should do one replacing the fork seals, with at least specific tools possible. Mostly common tools or what I use PVC pipe.

[@arrowinquire]

I’m surprised this is available for free.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

With the need for oil changes being always urgent, making this video free will create the awareness for changing oil and more importantly, how to do it. This helps my mission of savings lives as well as empowers other riders who are good with tools to help others in their community.

[@faithpath8283]

Dear Dave, I would really appreciate some advice. My Kawaski ZZR 600, has Preload and Rebound (rebound 3 clicks total to adjust) only, with a Telescopic Fork (right side up). OEM is SAE 10W-20 with 450ml total. The thing is, i am at "zero clicks out", and rebound is still too fast. Both hot and cold, where I myself dont feel much of a difference. Probably because the cartridge is already completly shut atm? If I had to guestimate, I would close it 2 more clicks and it would probably be just right. I realise it is already all the way shut, but my question is how much thicker of an oil would you recommend, in order to enable proper adjustement? Go 15W, or even thicker, or something entirely different? Thank you for teaching people and putting informations out there to educate. And your will to pass on knowledge, why something acts the way it does. With kind regards....

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the kind words. There should be 3 x 360 degrees complete turns of rebound for the total number of turns. What does the owners manual say you should have? It would appear the fork caps have not been installed correctly in the past.

[@faithpath8283]

Thanks for the reply. That is a somewhat a tricky one, since the owners manual does not say in text how far the click is supposed to go. However the manual states 4 adjustementsteps in text, and depicts a circle with 4 equally spaced dots numbered from 1 to 4. Additionally that a solo rider, of average height and with 68kg weight, is supposed to take the second rebound adjustement. On the bike itself the clicks are 90° degrees apart. Therefore 0°, all the way in, 90° one click out, 180°, 2 clicks out, 270° 3 clicks out. 270° full range of motion. It seems to be alright, or is there something wrong with the forks? It is a ZX600E, production year '97 or '98. OEM Forks. I myself am 1.80m tall and 75 to 80kg in weight (depending on how close it is to the last big holiday).

[@engineertrucker2568]

I over do: 1 Clean 2 Do what you need to do 3 Check 4 Ride & be happy Pozdro ♠

[@arashdeldargolchin3903]

8.20 yeaaahhh sss lol

[@martincross7016]

400 grit seems a bit harsh. 😬

[@catalystreactionsbw]

That's how I was taught when I first started along this path in 95. You can polish afterwards with 800 or 1000 grit if you want a finer finish.

[@martincross7016]

@@catalystreactionsbw appreciate the reply. Thanks. Been thinking of refreshing my fork oil and seems an OK way forward. But the 400 did make me cringe a bit. Luckily I don't think mine will need much rubbing down as pretty clean. I'll give it a go. Cheers. 👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@martincross7016 I think I showed the same facial expression the first time too.....

[@Konstantinos340]

seal is cracked

[@jamest5149]

The silver is from the bushes, it’s not metal.

[@DylanGSXR]

The bushes are metal !!! . RF 900 Suzuki I've got two done multiple fork oil changes and always grey even after a few months .

[@N269]

Wow!!!!! You did all that to remove the fork and never cleaned the old s-h-t oil out of the forks and never replaced the inexpensive seals... you had no idea what condition the bushes were in. You'd never be allowed to work on my bike. That is half-a$$'d. You saw and commented on how contaminated the oil was and just poured new in with it. Don't worry, I won't tell anybody.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

For the purpose of video, dump and run is the first step. Second step is strip clean and there are many, many videos of this process. At that time, everything is inspected, cleaned and parts replaced as needed. This is simply a stand alone video.

[@wojtekwilusz401]

Polish please :(

[@vicpnut1]

So this video isnt for a first timer who needs a step by step for his own bike 😂…..I refuse to pay someone to do what I “should “ be able to do…so off to further research via service manual and here on ye ole KZbin

[@vicpnut1]

Stiction,a very technical term

[@catalystreactionsbw]

So a free full length video of 16 minutes with step by step is not what you want? Sure, go somewhere else. Pay? It is a free video.......

[@vicpnut1]

@@catalystreactionsbw think u misunderstood…I was busting my own balls that I could find a “personalized” step by step because I was trying to be cheap .

[@Andy-co6pn]

Great vid 😃 Why not grease the stanchion before screwing in the top cap to purge the air from the cartridge ?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I rely on the spring force to kick back as well as internal pressure when compressing tpo flare the oil seal.

[@Andy-co6pn]

@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks Dave , always obvious when it's pointed out !!

[@F28B]

This guy is the dieseltechron of sportbikes. Having both a power stroke and sport bikes these guys are as good as gold. Good stuff man appreciate the content and most importantly you explain why you're doing what you're doing and what not to do also.