Durhams - My Favorite Filler Putty for 3D Prints

[@909fishing3]

Durham's is my favorite, not only for it's cheapness, but for $2.99 (in my area) it goes a long way. With thinner layer lines I've had to score it, or it chips off during sanding.

[@Uratz]

This is awesome what I'm looking for. Thin enough to be painted because bondo is for smooth flat surfaces. I have many organic sculpts like skulls that could use this method. Thanks a bunch.

[@robertsadowski2743]

Your horns are kickass!

[@Souldoubtrocks]

Can you paint over it with lacquer or krylon enamel?

[@roadstar499]

can it be wet sand like bondo glaze putty? have used premixed wood putty wth good results also ...but i forget to put lid back on and my 12oz pail dried up... :( i really like bondo glaze putty... only down side is the bright red color i wish it was tan or white for easier coverage when painting with light colors...thanks

[@ChaozXIII]

when you wet sand it does it makes a mushy mess like spackle?

[@jafinch78]

Have you ever mixed anything other than water with the Durham's? I'm going to try 50/50 water and titebond2 for the water and see what it does for hardening cardboard. Figured I'd read and watch into before I try, then ask those who've used. Thanks for sharing!

[@grumpyalison4869]

i've not tried a whole lot of things, but once or twice i mixed it with a bit of CA glue and it seemed to work. I think anything with a water or alcohol content work at least a bit. Not sure about the titebond unless it's really liquidy - it might not get absorbed into the durhams. what i'd suggest is mix in the water then add the titebond. it's pretty brittle though and i have a feeling hardening cardboard wound't work the way you want. might be better to soak it in a few layers of epoxy

[@jafinch78]

@@grumpyalison4869 Thanks for the feedback. I tested out two mixes; where one mix is per the Durham's and the other is per the Durham's plus Titebond 2 like you noted since I was also wondering about the reaction since like lime or cement where the water for hydration is needed first to start the hardening reaction. I'll make a video later today regarding... and if not... I might try just the Titebond 2 on the cardboard in a range of layers to observe performance on just one layer of cardboard... then make the video. From what I'm watching too... the cardboard really needs a few layers for the stronger methods... though thinking for indoor test use of the form for spiral conical antenna design iterations... I'll try Titebond 2 since I can still return the fiberglass resin I bought yesterday if suitable since was thinking will most likely have to use that for the better strength and hardening performance. The polyester resin though isn't something I really want to work with and it's still under the working temperature of that outdoors. Thinking can put on a screen on saw horses with an upside down trash container over with a radiant electric heater under then maybe an old sleeping back draped over all of it to bring to temp to cure. Epoxy costs even more... though any recommendations on epoxy you use? Thanks again.

[@grumpyalison4869]

jafinch78 I’ve only ever used xtc but I just got a gallon of a random brand off amazon to coat a piece of plywood for a desk top. Hopefully it doesn’t suck 😛 curious to see what you come up with!

[@jafinch78]

The 2 part distilled water and 6 parts Durham's compared to the 1 part distilled water, 1 part Titebond 2 and 3 parts Durham's where the water and Durham's were mixed first before adding the glue then each mixture poured in a yogurt lid as a form seemed to perform about equally. I didn't do a good scientific test set up and just used my fingers, though seems the titebond 2 mix does flex more before breaking. My guess if equal total volumes so the formed shape is more equivalent... the glue mix will be better for structure. I'm still going to try the glue alone also just to see since I watched in this video ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5OzfYGLp7uZobc ) and either it inspired (or corrupted me). :-|) This is what I've got laser cut so far (in the photo is the worse of the four I cut for the three type designs): facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3675555835839525&set=a.1586822128046250&type=3 Of course, I didn't save my scrap to use for test swatches... and looks like all (or most so far) of the cardboard I have isn't the same type material. Thinking since the worse cardboard form isn't so bad in concept... I'm going to use some scrap to test the just Titebond 2 various number of coatings on first. Thinking I can come up with some sort of test also that is more repeatable and precise at least. Have you ever used the XTC-3D for anything that takes a load or just filling or coating? Thanks for the motivation too!

[@grumpyalison4869]

jafinch78 that’s really interesting! I’ve used it to brace things together and fill holes but mostly in the context of cosplay props where something needs to hold up to being dropped now and again. It’s worked well enough for that so far, though I imagine with enough glue you would get something less brittle in the end.

[@gregorysmith3097]

Just a heads up, the video goes to about 7 minutes, the screen goes blank, then there's the sound from the previous video repeated.

[@grumpyalison4869]

Well that's awkward. I think I left some footage in the timeline that shouldn't have been there and it exported the extra. Now to figure out how to trim videos in youtube :P

[@jeffp3495]

Hey you must have figured out how bc in 2024 this video is only 6:39 long 👍

[@AveryDelMiller]

good vid!

[@bigjeff4519]

so what is wood filler made of? we dont have it here in australia we have spak filler which is like a goopy version of plaster of paris

[@grumpyalison4869]

Not sure about most wood filler, but this is the blurb from the durhams website "None of the ingredients are toxic or harmful to humans. Nor have we heard of Durham's causing problems for dogs, cats, or other animals. The ingredients of water putty are mostly minerials, like limestone, and a plant-based starch binder. There are no volitile organic compounds in Durham's." Which is just another reason i like it - i can use it pretty much guilt free :P

[@jafinch78]

I'll note here for the record since I was just looking for Titebond 2 Premium's ingredients also: Durham's MSDS from: www.msdsdigital.com/durham%E2%80%99s-rock-hard-water-putty-msds Component CAS No. Amount % Plaster of Paris 26499-65-0 70-80 Talc 14807-96-6 5-15 Dextrin 9004-53-9 5-9 Crystalline Silica- Quartz 14808-60-7