DW735 Planer Shelix Upgrade - Part 2 - Installation (step by step)

Complete Step by Step installation of Shelix cutterhead upgrade on a Dewalt DW735 planer.
UPDATE: At 20:40, the washer goes first, the key second, third the pulley then nut!
Products used in this video:
DEWALT DW735X 13" Two-Speed Planer Package: [affiliate] amzn.to/22VtexK
Byrd Tool Shelix cutterhead for Dewalt planer DW735: [affiliate] amzn.to/1WM560J
(alternate vendor) Grizzly T25670 Shelix Cutterhead for DeWalt DW735: [affiliate] amzn.to/1WM60dy
DEWALT DW7350 Planer Stand with Integrated Mobile Base: [affiliate] amzn.to/1WM5cp9
I've been asked about the hose and quick connect system I use on my dust collection ports. It's the Rockler Dust Right system. I bought these three parts specifically:
4" Dia. Dust Right® Hose, 3 Ft. Compressed, Extends to 21 Ft Long: [affiliate] amzn.to/1WOlNIR
Rockler Dust Right 4'' Tool Port with Clamps, 2 per Pack: [affiliate] amzn.to/26lMNDH
Dust Right® 4 in Quick Release Starter Kit: [affiliate] amzn.to/1YNUJYS

[@CafeenMan]

The helical gear is probably threaded to tighten in use so you probably don't need to torque it too much. It looked like you were getting close to snapping it.

[@johnk663]

At the step where you installed the nut on the new cutter head, you might have been able to lower the cutter onto a piece of wood and held it that way.

[@gooeytarballs]

I thought the approach would have been to call the supplier of the new cutterhead. Certainly, they would know there were no flats to allow use of a wrench and would have had to go through this process as part of their Q.C. and even the process of writing the manual of instructions supplied with the unit. Surely, for a $400 upgrade, they would offer some technical support and a toll-free number.

[@rayhuntley9434]

Does the nut need to be super tight? It appears to me the rotation of the head in service would be to tighten the nut rather than loosen it.

[@Edward-vs4hz]

That's what I ended up doing.

[@howarddeares3733]

great video, an easy way to hole onto the graded roller would have been to stuff a heavy rag or a short piece of carpet into the roller blade area, that will hold the roller so that you can torque it.

[@stokes771]

I know in the other video you talked about your depth gauge being off with the new cutter. Shelix makes 2 cutter heads for this planer, one is what you have and the other is a little bigger. The bigger one requires you to remove all the knives to insert it into the machine then re-install them. The larger head gives you the proper size which allows your gauge to be accurate. It is far more work to remove then reinstall the knives but at $400 plus and the fact that you really should only have to do that once I think it's a preference thing. Great video though. Thank you for it.

[@OldDungeonMaster]

The removal gauge can be adjusted as well the depth adjustment scale plate has elongated holes for this purpose to adjust them so the replacement cutter head can read accurately. This video helps me to get the right part for myself and my needs for myself I hope to get the oem size cutter head soon. I enjoy the tool as it is now being my only power tool but I think the benifits of upgrading this tool will make it a lifetime tool for myself.

[@createthisdotcom]

+disneytodd777 hand tool user, aye? I made my workbench with hand planes. Electricity is a wonderful thing. ;)

[@OldDungeonMaster]

createthis sharp is a good thing and electric is a good thing I just have a fondness for sharp hand tools and one secret monster electric machine about to get a overhaul

[@johnmacmillen6244]

Thanks for the comprehensive instruction. Mine was making a rattling sound and I pulled the panel off to discover the 23mm nut was loose and free. Bad quality control.

[@robertgregory3589]

Nice presentation, precise and explained logically ! I market the "Shelix" spiral cutters in Australia and will recommend this video for owners for their new retro-fit. Congratulations to Byrd Tools for the development of their "Shelix" spiral cutters for all planing machines.

[@trev2417]

Hi Robert can you send me contact details regarding you marketing the spiral cutters please Regards Trevor

[@SlaveToMyStomach]

This is the first video from your channel that I've viewed and I've given it a thumbs up. Not only is the subject matter of great interest, see all previous comments, but the commentary and editing were well done. How I wish the other bazillions YT creators would get a clue. And, yes, I've subscribed.

[@Mongrel85]

Thanks! Just watched your video as I upgraded mine step by step - appreciate the effort!

[@ozzstars_cars]

Nice job with the upgrade!

[@aroldfut]

Excellent tutorial! I am going to upgrade instead of buying more blades....which I need again. Thanks for the thoroughness and not including annoying music! :-)

[@createthisdotcom]

You're welcome!

[@martinpoulsen6564]

In regards to the HSS vs Carbide deal. I have been looking to get a jointer/planer for a while, and think I will end up with a Hammer A3-41. So I called the rep, asking a bit as whether to get this, that or the other. He goes: What are you running? Softwoods mainly, I reply. But you do sneak in the odd piece of hardwood, he goes. Sure I say - there'll always be an oak door step or something in there from time to time. OK, he goes. You need a spiral cutter block. You'll be 3 sets of knives gone, before you're halfway to turn the tips for the first time. Of course he is a salesman, but #1 I trust Felder to be a serious company, and since they don't operate in bulk (not here anyway), my guess is they want their customers to stick around. Second reason is the pros for this particular style of cutter block. it is silent, delivers a cleaner cut, you only need to rotate/replace the damaged cutters, should you have a mishap. And the 3rd and final reason is that you cannot get it as an original retrofit. It is either or from the get-go. Maybe you have some aftermarket manufacturer in the US, but I'd like what is purposebuilt for the machine, and since retrofit outfits are not such a big thing here in the EU, I think I'll just stick with stock. That kinda went off topic - sorry - but I still saw some comments regarding whether or not to get a new cutter head. Maybe it could shed a bit of light on the topic. Great video! Actually scrapped the idea of ever getting one of those smaller portable planers, since what I've personally seen in the past, has been nothing but tear out and chatter marks. This could make the whole difference.

[@mib20000]

wow that cutter head cost $485 bucks.. I was thinking maybe 200 while watching this. about 1150 total .. you can get a Grizzly G0889Z 13" 2 HP Benchtop Planer with Spiral Cutterhead for 750.00

[@thistledownwoodcraft3426]

What a great step by step, very well done! I have used a wedge of wood jammed into a space against sharp stuff to keep it from spinning, maybe a wedge would have kept the head from turning when tightening that big nut. Too much sheer force on one single little screw for me. All in all I found your 2 vids a great watch.

[@michaelpyefinch9906]

this was awesome, one of the things I really like that you do is read the step by step instructions when taking it off and then read them again in reverse order. Really liked that so much that, thats the way I'm going to do it albeit reading it to myself LOL. Looking forward to more videos!!

[@daveyJ213]

Did I see you forget to put the race back onto the shaft that holds the gear head on the spiral shaft side of the cutter? Maybe I just missed it. Great demonstration!

[@henrylopez945]

Appreciate the detailed instruction, the presentation is clear and educational

[@trev2417]

Absolute brilliant video. Thank you 😊

[@meowmaow]

Just curious. When removing the 23mm nut instead of using the 19mm wrench to hold the blade platten still, why can't you just use the locking device to lock it?

[@createthisdotcom]

+Robert Morgenstern it's been a while, so I don't really remember, but I think the lock may be removed by that point. The real problem is when installing the shelix because there is no nut to put a wrench on.

[@oscar.gonzalez]

at 20:40, doesn't the washer go first, the key second, third the pulley then nut?

[@createthisdotcom]

Well... SHIT. ;) Good catch. I'll have to correct that before using the machine again.

[@oscar.gonzalez]

+createthis your video is very helpful. thank you for putting it together. had a difficult time putting on the belt. used a scrap wood a bit thicker than 1/4" and wedged it between the pulley and belt. then rotated the pulley at the same time pushing the belt inward. I tightened the pulley by wedging a piece of wood between a flat part of the shelix at the end ( pulley side) and the planer, preventing rotation

[@createthisdotcom]

I'll have to try that wood wedge technique too. Thanks for the tip.

[@createthisdotcom]

Fixed this on my machine last week. Wood wedge wasn't working for me, so I used the torx bit method again. Had a bunch of trouble with the belt not tracking on the upper pulley this time. It's worth checking to be sure it's centered before reinstalling everything.

[@LDBecker]

Thanks for the videos. They were helpful. Could I suggest putting a warning in the 2nd video that the washer goes BEHIND the pulley, not in front of it? I had it correct, then really struggled to get the key in and the belt on (my machine is pretty new), then took it off when I saw your video, then had to redo it again to put the washer in correctly. But if I hadn't noticed Oscar's comment, I would have left it. I think it would have damaged the machine because after I tightened the bolt, the cutter head felt like it was binding up as I turned it. The washer must keep the pulley wheel the appropriate distance from the housing and bearing. I also used a wood wedge in the cutterhead to allow me to tighten the bolt.

[@kennyb4871]

Hah, At the end. "SUPER QUIET" he says as he has Gun-Muffs on lol Great video. I actually had the Roller Pulley crack at the hub, and the belt melted around said pulley. This video was a HUGE help. Thanks much!!!

[@createthisdotcom]

+Kenny B super quiet compared to the noise level with the original cutter head. Glad it helped!

[@daveschalk5371]

How the hell did you stretch the bicycle chain for the rollers?!

[@ErikPeterson1]

This was so helpful for me, I am very grateful.

[@MikeJohnson-ut7lx]

Very informative video! Thanks.

[@dennystrate3186]

I have the same planer have you had any problem with the motor not turning on after you ran boarda through it. Theres nothing online on how to fix it or any solutions

[@createthisdotcom]

+Denny Strate I'd call tech support.

[@C_L_Thomas]

Man I get it, and you make it look relatively easy, but that's an expensive cutterhead. I'm not sure if it would be worth it for me. This is not a snarky question. I'm genuinely interested to know how the cost is justified - as in - you make a steady income using your planer or you have to change blades every few months or ???

[@createthisdotcom]

+cltinseattle1 for me, my blades dulled almost instantly in hardwood. I prefer the carbide and not having to sharpen them constantly. Add up the hourly cost (your time) of sharpening and reinstallation and/or the cost of new blades. I think the payback is pretty fast when you look at it that way.

[@rbfriesen]

Kind of late but, once you go spiral on one machine, you’ll want it on all. Leaves a dream of a finish and rotating one tiny knife takes less than a minute.

[@tjseagrove]

On the assembly, you jumped from step 5 (replacing the handle) to step 2 ( replacing the dust cover. What about step 4 covering installing the cutter rotate lock plate? It seems like it has to be put in place while installing the cutter head. Or, is it no longer needed? ****** So now we listen all the way to the end and find out it isn't needed. 😳

[@christschool]

Excellent video. I think I'll try out the Infinity carbide blades first and if those aren't any good, I'll go with the Shelix.

[@donaldamlaw1266]

Very good job, informative and I liked how you did it with the instructions. Would have liked to see some curly maple passed through to see the results. Keep up the good work!

[@rfrhoad]

Thank you SO much for taking the time to create this video! Along with the instructions provided, your added video and tips made this super clear and easy to do. Cheers!

[@jamesmacbride4189]

Enjoyed your video but, whatI really need is a video/directions on how to remove the motor on a dewalt 735 planer. Can you help me there?

[@BuiltByN8]

Nice video! Helped me!!

[@colemahaney880]

not worth the trouble or cost

[@pipercub45]

Thanks for the video! Very well done. One thing I would add is where the belt goes on the handle side is to make sure the belt is on the right pulley also. There is an access hole on the right side. I get no snipe. One thing I learned was to run the boards through at an an angle.

[@hansangb]

Doing this tomorrow. So thank you!

[@johngalt1931]

Thanks, great step by step video.

[@doug.ritson]

At 5:10 - I agree. Having a screw loose is a problem, but usually only if others know about it. I watched the 3 part install by Chris Wong quite awhile ago and it seemed much more complicated. I have not used my planer much because the blades dulled VERY quickly and all I could see was $70 + $70 + $70, etc. Your explanation, video angles and overall demonstration were excellent. I'm rethinking my decision.

[@createthisdotcom]

I think it's an excellent upgrade for this machine. I had the same problem with just seeing dollar signs every time I used it. Carbide is definitely the way to go.

[@maydanlex]

Thanks for posting the video.

[@belfordlancaster6818]

I used your video to install my Shelix cutterhead and can tell you that there are two glaring mistakes in your video. The first one is the size of the nut holding the belt pulley in place, it is not a 23mm but rather a 24mm. I wasted an hour going to Home depot and Fleet looking for a 23mm socket. The Second error is you placed the washer on the outside of the belt pulley before the nut. The washer should go on before the pulley itself. (when disassemblying the cutterhead you show the washer in the correct place behind the pulley, not on the outside)

[@createthisdotcom]

I made a note of the second error in the description of the video and in the comments. This is the first I’ve heard of the nut size being wrong. I wonder if they changed it.

[@robertaiken4088]

very good video clear and easy to see all steps. thanks

[@HeartwoodByChristian]

I used a cordless impact driver with a 23mm socket for the nut on the pulley. I wore a glove to hold the pulley by hand while torquing the nut. You can do something similar for the helical gear. Hold the pulley or put a socket on the pulley’s nut and this helps keep the cutterhead stationary while you loosen or tighten the helical gear. I didn’t torque the helical gear too much since the end on it is quite small and easy to strip.

[@HeartwoodByChristian]

Oh yeah and it probably goes without saying but do not hold the cutterhead itself with your hand when you use the impact driver!

[@timejiff]

Loved your ultimate patients with the upgrade. Any finicki shit I fly off the handle. LOL.

[@createthisdotcom]

Whatever that quality is, it's what makes me a good software engineer too. My partner thinks it's aspergers. It's strange when the thing that makes you good at what you do for a living is labeled as a disorder or disease.

[@Dennis-wi6nn]

Sorry but phooey on the insert cutterhead. Thanks for the vid. Helps me replace drive belt.

[@createthisdotcom]

Shrug. I love mine.

[@ryang6513]

What kind of snap ring plyers are you using? Don't see them listed in the description...

[@Edward-vs4hz]

Any pair will do, just as long as they say they perform double duty for inside and outside rings. I just used the Husky brand I got at Home Depot for under $10.

[@thomasgilbert9347]

Thank you for the tutorial.

[@vyaterminaciones]

hi mate, thank you,i have the some planer, where can i get that cutterhead?

[@createthisdotcom]

+gustavo velasquez link in the description I think

[@Edward-vs4hz]

In the middle of the installation. Good call on grinding the 19mm wrench. I would also note that you correctly ID the shaft nut at 23mm, whereas others have it spec-ed at 24mm. The biggest surprise so far is how difficult it was to tap out the existing cutterhead shaft. I felt like I was going to damage the machine at first, but after about 10 strong taps with a dead blow hammer (and using end grain white oak as my tap block), it finally started to move. About to install the spiral head now.

[@createthisdotcom]

it was a piece of cake compared to my grizzly jointer shaft. ha. had to buy a hydraulic press for that one.

[@Edward-vs4hz]

Finished up the installation and am about to run some tests. A couple of observations: 1. The T25 bit they supply is kind of crap. Almost stripped the sprockets screws with it, but everything worked fine once I switched over to my own Torx heads. 2. Although it quickly becomes obvious, they should probably mention in the instructions that you don't replace the springed cutterhead lock -- it's designed for a hex fitting rather than the round shaft on the Shelix. 3. They now supply bearings with the Shelix, but apparently they didn't when they wrote the instructions. This should be updated. 4. The instructions say to put the key on the shaft of the Shelix before you slide it through the opening to seat it. I didn't do this, because of the obvious danger of losing it while you're banging the shaft in. Seems like a dubious instruction that should be changed. And never mind the fact that you would have to take it off again to fit the bushing. 5. Tapping the Shelix in to fit the bearings takes a surprisingly long time (actually, not so surprising given how long it took to tap it out). A simple gauge for when enough is enough is when the hex shaft comes up against the snap ring again. A couple of times I felt like I had tapped enough, but I was still a few mm away from snap ring.

[@Edward-vs4hz]

Holy crap! The Shelix is AWESOME!!!! I've been planing these reclaimed oak beams, on which the original knives dulled and chipped after only a few passes, and which sometimes struggled to pass through the planer because they are a bit wonky (don't have a jointer, so I flattened one side as best I could with handplanes). They now pass through as smooth as butter. And the noise? If you had told me beforehand a planer could be that quiet I would not have believed you. But it really is that quiet. Which is a good thing since my shop is in my garage, and I've terrified the neighborhood for too long with the sound of my planing. I'm still getting some snipe on some of the boards, but I think it's more a roller issue combined with the difficult wood. So happy I made the investment.

[@createthisdotcom]

+Edward Reno haha. Right? Carbide ftw!

[@mdtoolguy65]

Boy I have wanted to do this for a long time but the 2 hr video that was done by the other guy a few years ago convinced me to look at other options. Now I restore very old Belsaw planers but that is an still expensive undertaking but well worth it. Your video is truly outstanding and simply explained. Made me go directly to Amazon and buy the carbide cutter head! I will be watching again a couple of times when the part arrives. Take away the speed up portions of the video how long did this project installation actually last?

[@createthisdotcom]

+mdtoolguy65 I didn't keep track, but filming always slows things down and I'm a pretty slow mechanic anyway. I think I spent maybe five hours on the mechanics then another five editing or something. Editing is exhausting. I think a competent person with tools already on hand could reasonably expect to do this in two hours without rushing.

[@Edward-vs4hz]

It ended up taking me around 2 hrs all told (not including breaks to write KZbin comments!). And I'm not mechanically inclined by any means.

[@pachino_4244]

Nice job.... If you mind me asking, how much was the helix cutter-head and where did you get it for the DW735? I am really interested in getting on for mine

[@createthisdotcom]

Check the description of the video, above. I've got a link to the one I bought on amazon there.

[@pachino_4244]

ok, thanks.

[@bradwelch4917]

when you pulled the pulley the washer was behind it. when you reinstalled you put the pulley then the washer

[@createthisdotcom]

+Brad Welch I think I mention this in the description of the video.

[@bradwelch4917]

createthis yep, I didn't see that. I never read the descriptions. Great video.

[@jerrodbrown6699]

This was great. How long did it take to swap?

[@createthisdotcom]

Hard to say as filming always takes longer than just doing it yourself. I think if you have the tools on hand beforehand you can probably do the job in 2 to 3 hours.

[@neilcopeland5815]

Please everybody, don't grind on the side of a grinding wheel. They aren't designed to be used that way. The wheel can break up.

[@createthisdotcom]

+Neil Copeland just curious... if you don't use the side of the wheel, what's the appropriate way to get a flat grind?

[@neilcopeland5815]

createthis I guess patience and a bit of skill. Or use an angle grinder as those wheels are reinforced for side loads.

[@createthisdotcom]

+Neil Copeland That makes sense. Thanks for the heads up. I'll use an angle grinder next time.

[@edcctf]

You're actually Kurt Russell in disguise aren't you?? (You sound like him!) Great video!

[@bat-amgalandemberelgaldan5958]

how to use 220 volt?

[@createthisdotcom]

can't AFAIK

[@createthisdotcom]

might be able to use a VFD though.

[@bat-amgalandemberelgaldan5958]

createthis thanks