e46 330ci Emergency Brake Pad Replacement

This is how I replaced my e46 330ci emergency brake pads. There will be a separate video showing how I adjust the brake pad after installing.
Perform any and all repairs at your own risk. This is my car and will certainly be in different condition than yours and you will find your own issues that may be different from my car. Use proper safety precautions such as heavy duty car jackstands, safety gloves, and safety goggles.
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[@YootubeUK]

Very good! Well shot and thorough! I've a light bang-bang-bang coming from the rear so I'd say a shoe just came astray.

[@ianizzy-e4679]

Really good video I haven’t completed this project yet but I’m about to start tomorrow and this video does a good job of showing what needs to get done

[@bmwchannel7209]

I'm glad it helped you!

[@t-man8498]

thank you this video was very helpful, im just about rounding up my project build and really needed this detailed video

[@georgiiegonzalez9154]

Thanks bro. Now I know how I can do it by my self

[@bradmaxwell1143]

Very useful video helped me out doing mine today!

[@gothicstar6]

Verry good explains

[@krzysztofploszek7342]

Very good BUT please never use copper grease for aluminium rims! course copper and aluminum react electrochemically, use ceramic or silicone grease instead of copper. For steel using of cooper grease rims never mind. Good day for You!

[@cameronwilson9193]

What should I check if the rotor won't fit back on. Good video by the way thank you

[@cameronwilson9193]

if anyone is having the same problem measure the handbrake shoes. sometimes they are the same size but the small grove is a few mm shallow compared to original ones

[@bradmaxwell1143]

Had the same issue with one of mine, i ended up loosening off the handbrake lever adjustment which allowed me to fit the disc

[@atobsky]

Thank you so much

[@rafaellalinde3154]

Thanks, Great Video! Though anti-seize under rotor and wheel are bad idea, creates gap and could cause brake pulsation, also the clamping force by the lug bolts clamping down the wheel to hub is what creates the friction so when you hit the brakes they don't move independently, if you add lubrication in between now they might move. BMW wants nothing put in between, but putting just a tiny bit around the center hub where it meets the rotor works great.

[@matreyia]

Do not listen to BMW recommendations for this situation. 5 bolts torqued down properly will effectively weld the wheel to the rotor no matter what you do. Just don't go putting anti size on the bolt threads and you will be fine. If you add anti seize on the bolt threads, then you will not get correct torque values with the torque wrench and risk overtorqing. Same thing with spark plug threads on BMW. I have owned multiple bmws, honda, toyota, nissan, saab, audi...and I use this method on all rotor wheel mating surfaces with the wheels to make my life easier when the wheels need to come off and not once in 20 yrs has there been an issue. Proper torque is key.

[@DCS21O562]

While it is always good to consider the possible ramifications of one's actions when servicing your motor vehicle yourself, especially the wheels and brakes, in this case the concerns that you raise by not "going by the book" and using anti-seize between the rotor and hub are unwarranted. The miniscule amount used in this instance won't create an uneven gap to cause pulsation, nor will the wheel move independently to the hub when applying brakes. Tighten those five bolts that locate the wheel to the rotor/hub correctly and there will not be any movement between the two whether you use anti-freeze or not. My father was in the US Navy for a long time (7 gold stripes), in the engine room. He ended up holding 13 trade ticket qualifications. He was a very practical man about such things and serviced all of the things around the home (cars, air conditioners etc.) I watched my father use anti-freeze as used in the video when servicing our cars in the 60's, 70's and the 80's. His advice was good enough for me and I have consequently used anti-seize between the rotor and hub for the past 40 years with no issuem as well as obsetrving countless others do this too, including professional automotive mechanics. If you decide to not use anti-seize between your rotor and hub, that is your choice. But I daresay that you only have to encounter one instance of a rotor rusted aganist the hub to get you to change your mind because the time and effort that is usually required to separate the two can often be considerable. If you like working smarter and not harder, use the anti-seize and you will thank yourself every time you do.