Easiest Way To Disconnect Clutch Master Cylinder From a Clutch Pedal On a Ford Truck, Best Technique

In this video I show you how to remove clutch master cylinder from clutch pedal on a 95-11 ford ranger or Mazda b2300, b2500, b3000, b4000, and if you break the bushing what not to replace it with and why.
#best
#diy
#repair
how to sharpen a drill in 10 seconds with this idea.

[@chrsshears4528]

I feel like I’m in middle school with this guy….he’s good..though I live in Orlando and never changed a brake line,clutch line,suspension part, anything like that and all my sport tracs are 20 years old..but zero …zero…rust…but I like looking at these messes up north…of these rangers…rust never sleeps. Sounds familiar…that’s for the help

[@everydayirace]

No talking during class 🤣, we got rust but no alligators, it's a trade off I guess.

[@richardsmith741]

Nice vid. Helped a lot. Thanks.

[@davidclark3147]

Thanks dude preciate the help

[@9voltentertainment]

I need to know how to take it off without breaking it

[@beerggls]

So take apart an old wiper blade for the long flat thin metal piece inside, cut four sections out of it that are a few inches long, and slide one under each of the 4 plastic snap clips between the lobes and the groove on the pedal stud to get the pushrod off of there without breaking the retainer clip. That’s the information I was looking for. Just came up with that now lol, I’m gonna go try it.

[@everydayirace]

I'll have to try it, thanks.

[@1badombre82]

Good thing there is a ton of room to do all that (he said sarcastically) . But seriously I am going to try that. I did all this once before 8 years ago when I did a v8 swap on my ranger but I must have blocked out the memory of that nightmare until I just had to replace my slave cylinder and found out the master hold lots of air. So now I gotta pull the piston out of the master from behind to bleed it.

[@beerggls]

I actually found a better way. Took apart the end of a spark plug wire, the metal part that clips onto the top of the spark plug. Also needed a pair of gas/mig welding pliers, they have a rounded portion of the jaws designed for gripping copper mig welding gun tips. Using a shaft with the same diameter as the clutch pushrod, I was able to reform the portion of the metal spark plug wire end that crimps around the wire itself, around the mock pushrod shaft by squeezing it with the afore mentioned portion of the plier jaws to get it shaped correctly and then bend the portion of the metal plug wire end that clips on the tip of the spark plug 90° and flatten it out to where you can hold it with your fingers and use it just like a fuel line release tool. Push rod popped right out. A fuel line release tool would’ve worked perfectly, if the clutch pushrod were the same diameter as one of the release tools in my assortment. But of course not, so I made one. And the Internet said it couldn’t be done.

[@beerggls]

This is what happens when you grow up watching MacGyver

[@beerggls]

@@1badombre82 I think I just replied to myself instead of you but check out the method I conjured. It works. After removing the push rod, and getting the whole master cylinder and pressure hose assembly out of there, I took out the retaining clip that holds the master cylinder piston in the chamber, removed the piston and spring, filled the cylinder with brake fluid up to the brim, and reassembled. Not much air, if any, to get out by pumping the piston with a screwdriver if it’s already full to the top with brake fluid from the git. After the “quick release“ (yeah right) pressure hose coupler is pushed back into the slave cylinder, I gravity bled two reservoirs of fluid out through the bleeder, never touching the clutch pedal or letting the reservoir run dry. My clutch hydraulics finally work flawlessly.

[@TheLastPirate1973]

is the retainer clip for the master cylinder available to purchase individually?

[@Davidsavage8008]

Put a slight bend down and slight bent up on plunger push rod to take up slack in warn out fixture if desperate.😊

[@tommacdonald6070]

I checked the Ford Service Manual. It says "Using a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod from the clutch pedal pin." So I wedged a screwdriver between the pedal and the rod, and twisted. The rod, along with its crappy plastic bracket came off in one piece. Easy.

[@jonathanmoulton9251]

Felt like I got stupider watching this.

[@Scooter_built]

A 14mm 12 point wrench works great to pop off that plastic clip. 😊

[@everydayirace]

14mm wrench only comes out of my toolbox when I am working on a toyota lol, I'll have to try it anyways.

[@rockyjr1522]

It's really professionally explained, but if Dorman isn't good, can you tell me where to buy it from Ford. I've searched everything but I can't find it. Thanks.

[@andrewsreclaimedDIY]

Glad I found this! Quick question if you please, sir, my clutch is suddenly just flopping in the breeze. If I replace that little clip that holds the rod to the clutch pedal arm, the clutch should now engage, right?

[@HoloScope]

Honestly while you’re there just replace the whole thing

[@Thelegendking-yj4bm]

Video on how to remove assembly ?

[@AdeptReaction]

I can’t quite get the new rod to pop onto the pedal in my 93 ranger I need a quarter to half an inch to be able to pop that rod and clip to the clutch pedal

[@alecfarmer1413]

1991 ranger the brake and clutch stick on I have to pull with foot to bring them back into place any ideas

[@everydayirace]

Your pedal bushings failed.

[@thatdude8247]

So you video is about the linkage not the master

[@user-ox9qi8cb2g]

Ok but how to remove the rest of the pushrod from the peddle assembly

[@ibeamdaveo]

How do you take the push rod out from the master cylinder ?? mine snapped in half ...

[@everydayirace]

There's a snap ring in the master cylinder that you have to remove to separate rod from master cylinder.

[@akaridavis4474]

Will this work for a late 90’s, early 2000’s (I think it’s a 98) Mazda B2500?

[@everydayirace]

Should be the same 95-11 rangers/b-series.

[@RafananClan]

What's the Mfg part# for the clip?

[@chrisvantuyl5554]

Have you ever found a answer to this question?

[@russelmussle7866]

Which year Ranger between 98-2011 is most reliable?

[@andrewgammon1468]

97 best with all steel and bigger motor in the ranger

[@chrisvantuyl5554]

Does anyone have the FORD OEM part number for the bushing?

[@brocurt8323]

Yes

[@brocurt8323]

It is 6C3Z-7A581-A

[@chrisvantuyl5554]

@@brocurt8323 thank you so very much!

[@haileebrinton2734]

How did you get the pedal assembly out. I’m having a tough time with my 96

[@everydayirace]

I unbolted it from the truck, takes like 5 mins.

[@Lilchino707]

The clutch is in the way tho did you remove the entire clutch assembly? It’s too long to just pull straight out

[@fantasyyy_]

@@Lilchino707I’m wondering if anyone in the thread has found a way to pull the pedal assembly out yet

[@Lilchino707]

@@fantasyyy_ yeah so the clutch and break pedal is on piece. You need to remove 2 bolts under the dash and removed the 4 bolts that are around the breaks/pedal bracket, remove the clutch from the pedal. It’s a pain in the ass but it is possible haha took me 2 days to figure it out. Basically you have to remove the entire bracket assembly to be able to remove the clutch pedal itself and the break pedal. There are a few wire sensors that NEED to be on the car to start so I’d use some tape and number them unless you feel confident in remembering how to re assemble them.

[@Lilchino707]

Once you remove the clip that attaches the clutch to the clutch pedal you can carefully push it towards the engine bay to fully pull the bracket out.

[@militaryjunkie6207]

What bolt size is the clutch master cylinder? The 2 bolts Is it 10 or 12 mm.

[@tubeheader1]

on my 1993 it's a 10 mm.

[@irdiver3]

a hole vid on a little clip

[@dfacate]

That helps in absolutely no way.

[@Dumontjon]

Just helped me

[@zimbi4483]

Pretty much no help

[@garylee9738]

Poor design on Ford's part.