East End Architecture London Walking Tour | Stepney & Poplar (4K)

Inspired by Modern Buildings in London by Ian Nairn. A walk through Stepney and Poplar in East London following some of the architecture featured in Ian Nairn’s book, Modern Buildings in London first published in 1964. Our walking tour starts on Mile End Road and heads down White Horse Lane, once the main street of medieval Stepney. We then visit St Dunstan’s Church Stepney, originally built in 952 by Dunstan Bishop of London and further expanded in the 14th and 15th Century. We look inside the church, and marvel at the Saxon stone rood. Continuing down White Horse Lane we look at the Stepney Meeting churchyard and then turn in to Salmon Lane and Flamborough Street to the first of the buildings described by Nairn in his book.
Our walk takes in: The Danish Seaman’s Church on Commercial Road (1958), St. Paul’s Bow Common (1958-60), Flats and Maisonettes in Pekin Close (1951), Old People’s Home in Grundy Street (1951), and the Lansbury Neighbourhood and Chrisp Street Market (1950 onwards).
Music
Of Virtue - Christoffer Moe Ditlevsen
Quiet Steps - Kasper Schill
Rent Out My Heart - Zorro
The Burdens We Carry - Gavin Luke
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Maps:
Open Street Map “© OpenStreetMap contributors” using data available under the Open Database Licence
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Shot in 4K on a Olympus OM-D EM-1 mark 2 with audio recorded with a Rode Wireless GO
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[@waynemoore9951]

As a former town planning and regeneration student, I still don't know whether to find the juxtaposition between the normal housing and the towering canary wharf looming above, sad or pleasing. It's the obscene wealth looking down onto a working class area I find concerning I suppose. Great video john

[@BarryAllenMagic]

As an E1 lad (born in Shadwell) that both lived AND earned a living around Stepney and Poplar, this filming meant so much to me John. I adore your superb channel - but jeeeeezus.....you truly pulled it out the bag with this one mate. So many happy memories from my youth. Thank you. Thank you oh so very, very much. 👍🏻

[@harvey22]

What a wonderful video. I especially enjoyed the visit to St. Dunston's church. And the weather looks glorious in England today. Thanks, as always. Richard in Reno

[@JohnRogersWalks]

cheers Richard - we've had a glorious burst of late summer sun

[@nige_breaks_bikes9782]

Good to see some ungentrified London … Ian Nairn’s other books look like an interesting base for future walks … perfect accompaniment to a late Sunday evening ❤

[@markriley4665]

I know St Dunstan’s well. I went to a wonderful performance of Bach’s StJohn’s Passion there a few years ago. The ‘Danish church’ has a great cafe that’s worth a visit too. I love this walk John as it covers my local stomping ground and.the area I lived throughout the 80s and 90s. St Paul’s church is a favourite to and the Nairn book is a great guide to this part of post-war London. Thank you..

[@JohnRogersWalks]

many thanks Mark - I'll make sure to go back

[@jamesbain4351]

Another good one John, thanks. What a character Ian Nairn was, there are a few Nairn features on the BBC iplayer (Nairn about Britain etc) remarkably he was a pilot flying one of the first jet fighters in the RAF, the Gloster Meteor. A fondness for beer of course (which eventually killed him). Looking forward to the next one John. Best wishes 👍

[@JohnRogersWalks]

great fact about the Meteor James, thanks. I must dip back into those iPlayer docs - what a character

[@trickydicky_1265]

The old East End community went years ago, mid 90s. I’m Stepney born & bred and loved living in there, fantastic upbringing even with the rough estates & people.

[@JTTW1455]

St Dunstan’s is certainly historic. I suppose the new architecture went up quickly as the area recovered from bombing. Thanks for the interesting video, John!

[@johnmurray8428]

Thank you for the Grundy Street section, (thank you for the whole video), I found my Grandfather, his half Aunt and her Husband in a shop in Grandy Street in the 1891 census. The history of the area told me Grundy Street was the last street in the East End that maintained a cow for local milk sale.

[@chazzyb8660]

"The old Half Moon Theater over there, now a W***********s". Possibly the most depressing start to another enjoyable walk with the joyous John Rogers. I love that book, well anything by Ian Nairn really. And suddenly we slip back 1000 years at St Dunstan's, wow.

[@luluandmeow]

Oh John, how could you not visit the wonderful farm virtually opposite St. Dunstan's? Also, St Dunstan's gardens are beautiful, lots of daffodils in the spring and other gorgeous flowers, it's a lovely area, it's wonderful to just wander down side streets, etc. Thank you John for your quality output

[@williammorrison5678]

One of my favorite walks you've done. Thanks John.

[@JohnRogersWalks]

many thanks William - I loved it so editing the video was a real joy

[@robertmorrey547]

Just watched this in hotel Chattanooga USA 🇺🇸 brilliant as usual 👌🏻👌🏻

[@JohnRogersWalks]

What a wonderful image Robert - thanks

[@catieoates1726]

What a fabulous walk. Always enjoy seeing the interesting buildings that you find. It reminded me of the oranges and lemons rhyme which they think St Dunstan's are the bells of Stepney

[@philj4574]

It would be interesting to see what Nairn’s view on current architecture would be

[@lindasueanderson8024]

You sure moved through time on this walk. Loved the focus on postwar architecture

[@TXMEDRGR]

I love it when you draw attention to the many layers of history to be found around London. As a history lover, it is something that draws me to watch your excellent videos. Thank you.

[@clairbarnard9058]

Thank you John. Inexplicably, I found the film really moving! Not sure why my emotions were so stirred, but it was a lovely piece as always.

[@Michaeluk61]

Hi John. Thanks for another interesting video 👍

[@angelenoof206]

The tall block of flats behind the market at the end with the separate elevator column connected by footbridges is a famous one that shows up in videos/books/ lectures on Brutalism

[@joeorwell4323]

Balfron tower

[@sonicfactory-co-uk]

Brilliant, as always!

[@zwerdna35]

Truly textbook John Rogers film. I enjoyed every second of this walk. Thanks

[@jessewrites17792]

My hasn't London changed. For better or worse? We love our capital city and all it holds.

[@carlbyronrodgers]

Wonderful!

[@Heinz57ish]

Left me wanting more with this one John . . . Home of my maternal ancestors (the Irish side) a few married in St Dunstans so that was great to see. I loved Stepney; Victorian terraces, green leafy spaces and the traditional pub - really lovely.

[@TheWalnut47]

Thank you John - such an interesting walk and your positivity about the area was much appreciated. Not places that I really knew as an ex-south London lad who rarely ventured into the East End.

[@rubytuesday6515]

Wonderful 😊. Thankyou!

[@JohnRogersWalks]

thanks for watching Ruby

[@cheekyllamacreations]

This was a great video! 👍🏼

[@marty9011]

Interesting walk & nice to see some mid-century developments.

[@hectorheathwoodundercover879]

Oh wow! I was just watching a documentary about Ian Nairn earlier today.x

[@AngeloBetrulas]

Wonderful, as always. Thank you! (My manor, Stepney.)

[@johnpett8241]

Thank you John very enjoyable and informative 😊

[@jennythescouser]

You always end up at a pie and mash shop - lol. Maybe you can do a series of videos on our ever disappearing Pie and Mash shops. Some great locations, showing that if you stop and look at them, places are more interesting than you think.

[@festivaljapan]

Amazing video. I'm your fan.

[@markames3688]

Lovely!!!!

[@StarWarsJay]

I used to live in All Saints Tower on the Beaumont Estate as a kid (now demolished, thank god). There’s a lot of chat amongst the Dalston crowd of nostalgia for 1960s/70s brutalist British architecture. I’ve even seen some try to replicate the decor in their homes. Isn’t it funny how some of the rich want to live that life (minus the poor diet, violence and stench of urine), but those of us that had to endure the reality want the opposite? Us humans are a strange bunch.

[@manephewlenny6401]

The hipsters want 1960s London but with their Beigel Bakes and Uber Eats.

[@neilboulton9813]

Same as a lot of modern architects lived in beautiful Georgian houses demostrated in some these houses, but rather than re-imagine their lovely proportions and density they foisted their ugly glass and steel on everyone else.

[@stevehodder179]

A thoroughly enjoyable mix of architecture and history. I don't think you mentioned George Lansbury, after whom the estate is named. If you didn't perhaps he might be worth returning to in a subsequent video?

[@hoytoy100]

More on the canals?

[@paulblake1164]

6:45 Left side bottom corner a Caduceus?

[@ew4206]

I need to visit the Bethnal Green disaster memorial - Stairway To Heaven. Genesis 28:17 ... “And he was afraid, and said, How dreadful is this place! this is none other but the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven.”

[@PaulCloves]

The old east end is alive and well uve just got to look for it is a contradiction in statement if ever I’ve here’d one u didn’t have to look for the old east end in the east end years ago it was all around u I know ur probably talking more about the buildings but they in themselves don’t make an area it’s the people and all the originals have I’m afraid gone it’s a shame cos I grew up there many many years ago and the place was great but the character has been stripped out now it’s just being bought up by newbies with money what was it u said the library is now a swanky hotel that just about sums the place up for me now

[@glennvage]

so,poplar and architecture in the same sentence...and no balfron...come on mate..?

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Seems strange I know Glen but Nairn's book was written a couple of years before the Balfron Tower was built

[@glennvage]

@@JohnRogersWalks ...a chance to mention flemings abiding hatred of goldfinger's architecture,thus immortalising him as a bond villain..?i think i'd have shoehorned that in...cheers John

[@paulhutchins6019]

Thank you for taking me down memory lane on this walk John. My dear Nan used to live in the flats, Osterley House Poplar, just off Chrisp St market which made an appearance a number of times, but not referred to. They had an "Adventure playground" just nearby too and I was allowed to go in when I got a little older. Fondly remember her Steak and Kidney pudding, which was steamed for hours and Incredible! Happy times☺️

[@JohnRogersWalks]

thanks for sharing those great memories Paul. The geographical references in the block names did strike me but I forgot to mention on camera.

[@AlisonPhilcock]

Hi John! So much to say about this lovely film. Thank you for making it. I’m pleased to say The Half Moon Theatre is very much alive and well just round the corner from its original location. Now in Whitehorse Road very near St Dunstan’s. One of the things you can see in the film is the red ensign flying from the top of. St. Dunstan’s and the White ensign flying from St Anne’s Limehouse (Hawksmoor’s church on Commercial Road). They are the only two churches to have permission to fly the naval flags and show their close connection to the. Sea. Loved your coverage of The Lansbury Estate and Chrisp Street Market. Named after George Lansbury of course, MP for Poplar and leader of the Poplar rates rebellion which led to 30 councillors being jailed for refusing to tax the poor. Heritage panel in Poplar Recreation Ground if you’re in the area again!

[@morriganwitch]

Thank you John and Iain keeping the threads of London relevant xxx

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Many thanks Morrigan

[@williamrobinson7435]

I did not notice that you had identified as a witch until I had already liked👍your comment. Blessed be🤘⭐

[@morriganwitch]

@@williamrobinson7435 Blessed Be xxx

[@TheCinderellaman10]

St dunstans churchyard has monks buried their. Some graves are around 1000 years old. Incredible.

[@josephyearwood1179]

Saint Dunstan seems to have some kind of link to Satan. Other than the aforesaid, interesting that there is the ‘Bishop of Stepney’ but nowt ‘bishoprick of Stepney’. ?

[@markmiwurdz2248]

St Dunstans Church also has a plague pit.

[@joankeating8999]

We moved into a thirteenth floor flat in Latham House, a tower block on the Mountmorres Estate, visible from St Dunstans, at Christmas 1963 when I was six months old. We were rehoused 16 years later. The docker's leader Jack Dash lived on the floor above ours. There is a strong history of protest in the area - I remember the anti silver jubilee graffiti in Bromley Street and Maltese PM Dom Mintoff's daughter who lived on Westport Street being arrested for throwing manure in the House of Commons in 1978. Incidentally my parents thought of Latham House as the promised land, having been rehoused from Stephen and Matilda House in Wapping. The underfloor heating and mod cons were a thing of dreams.

[@tarscase7653]

Limehouse next?! Ive always thought its a hidden gem, the basin is gorgeous! Thank you for this, looking forward to the next

[@MrJohnQCitizen]

Limehouse Limehouse Limehouse!

[@mickeythompson9537]

Yes please to Limehouse.

[@PatriciaEnright]

Very interesting....from a former Resident of Bow. My late Mum worked in Poplar Hospital in the 1960's when the Docks were still operating. Your film brings it all alive.

[@malcolmrichardson3881]

Great walk. I especially enjoyed your portrait of the Lansbury Estate which still displays some of the ethos and optimism of the early post-WW2 period.

[@waldorfstatler3129]

Wow! Those gorgeous hidden gems of Georgian/Victorian houses and squares tucked away behind the Brutalist main roads. I think those honking cars were for you John. They recognised you.

[@williamrobinson7435]

Wonderful Nairn walk here John. Especially noticed the camerawork, very evocative, in the sunshine.. Lovely! ☀️👍

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Thanks William

[@MF-fg3cg]

Waiting for the upload really pleased you are looking at Nairn. I stumbled on him as a kid when they repeated some of his TV progs in the afternoon. It was compelling yet quite melancholic TV. A flawed genius. Wonder what Iain Sinclair makes of him

[@terrysaint688]

Thanks for taking me back to where i grew up,christened and married in st dunstans

[@bt5080]

We all see things differently. Your way of always trying to see the good torches my heart. We may see the grandeur in old buildings, but seeing these newer structures shows how the architects really cared and wanted to make things better after the war. It was so cool to see a little bit of both. Dunston Church was wonderful, especially to be able to go in and look around. Thank you John for bringing your heart on your walks; it means so much.

[@runningforasthma_]

A magical place built for the people indeed, totally in agreement that Chrisp still retains some of its wonder. Thanks for another wonderful video

[@nigelreadon8381]

Holy Trinity Church is known as the Clown's Church because of the annual service held each year. "Dalston, London E1" use to get nightmares about the clowns photo between the hall and that church, wondered if that was on your bucket list to visit.

[@CthulhuInc]

Hi John - when you said it was time to finish the video, i thought - aw, no, not already! i was really enjoying today's walk, as yesterday was a bit of a stress-out for me, and your walks are so helpful in reducing stress, i find. thanks once again - love from canada!

[@Jude1310]

Thoroughly enjoyed this. Subscribed

[@margaretpepper3550]

I found your walk around the area most interesting as my grandparents lived in a slum in Stepney in 1911 & went to school off the Commercial Road from 1955-60 & my memories of that time was of the bombsites everywhere. I went back there 40 years later & did not recognise the place.....

[@davidcottam7431]

I love these videos. They're fascinating. I could easily imagine them being made into a BBC series they're so well researched and narrated. When I was young, my parents would take my brother and l to London every year, usually around Easter time. I'd have only been around 3 or 4 when we first went, but my earliest memory is eating some smarties in Trafalgar Square when I was about that age. I remember riding on the Routemasters and in cabs, and I still think the routemaster is the most beautiful and iconic piece of engineering. I try to go to London once a year still (I live in Yorkshire now), and more recently, I've tried to avoid the well known places and explore more unknown sections and these guides are a great reference point. I've booked for a weekend in April with Emery Taylor's House, Dickens' house, and Denis Severs' house on my itinerary.

[@fork_in_the_road]

Just off the Mile End Road - through an almost unnoticed archway - is the amazingly rural Mile End Place, sandwiched between a couple of disused Jewish cemeteries

[@JohnRogersWalks]

I shall take a look

[@TheUndergroundMap]

@@JohnRogersWalks Mile End Place is visited here about 7:15 into the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6WslZ2heK-ea7M

[@ThisWontEndWell]

I think those yellow brick maisonettes above the shops were one form of 1950s development they got right, if they had kept that scale instead of developing the high rise estates things would have worked out better for that era of development.

[@claireclarkson3191]

I remember the 'L' shaped old people's home. It was a lovely building set in gardens that surrounded it. You missed many features around the area, including the wall built out of the drones of the bombed St Stephens Church and the curve in the road in Ricardo Street that marks the position of a small circular parade of shops that are no longer there...I have fond memories of growing up in Poplar and Limehouse...5th generation but I choose to raise my own children in Suffolk as the East End my husband and I knew no longer exists...

[@RubbishGimpy]

They have knocked down the whole North/N East part of the chrisp street market that boarders Cordelia, Equinox Sq and Chrisp St. Its all bare ready for new shops and development.

[@josephyearwood1179]

Steppenwolf hive also got lots of super important Jewish graveyards. Sabbatean Frankists and Zionists and so forth.

[@cardriver3358]

This should be shown on TV, fantastic ..

[@kindnesscake2819]

I wholeheartedly agree 🌟

[@philburdett]

Excellent stuff as ever sir! My dad's old stamping ground is Poplar...I've been off social media for a bit (for sanity reasons ha!) but am back trying to flog my stuff again...but have kept up my regular Monday appointment with your good self & my weekly dose of ambulatory therapy! 😐 Keep on truckin' my man...

[@philburdett]

And as an added bonus the mighty Ian Nairn as your guide...

[@fenlandwildlifeclips]

I think you need to make a statement about Russel Brand: didn't he write the intro to your book? You really ought to say something. People like that drag everyone else down with them. It's good to see your little channel doing so well these days.

[@stephenoliver1437]

St dunstons church very nice to see vid all good to view

[@spinosauruswearingboots4156]

Looking forward to the book Jon. Do you plan on releasing an audiobook of this book like you have done for your previous book? Thanks

[@day0walker]

I get my hair cut in that old black industrial building 16:23 small business and studios run lut of there from what i can tell.

[@sulalee7413]

What a lovely video to watch; relaxed and interesting, story-telling approach. 👍 I've subscribed and shall look back at what else you have talked about. 🙂

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Many thanks

[@henryjames5663]

As a former resident of Stepney Green, thank you for this video, A wonderful and cohesive community, great shows at the Half Moon theatre, best pubs in London with free bar food in Sundays, ; Stepney a happy place to live until the Isle of Dogs was destroyed, and the community against their wishes moved out; though happy memories stay with us

[@henryjames5663]

Too add! Captain Cook lived on Mile End Road, Colonel Booth began the Salvation Army on Mile End Road

[@mctasty6094]

Do like stepney so evocative even now of the past century 20th in all its different era's.

[@Tokyowalking2023]

It's a wonderful cityscape! I felt as if I was there too. Thank you very much for providing a nice video 😊

[@EdEditz]

Excellent video as ever! Thank you!

[@VickyAllum]

Thank you for such an interesting walk around the areas of Poplar and Stepney, my great grandfather was born and lived in Poplar and most of his family worked at the docks, i live near London but have yet to visit these areas and how lovely to see pockets of some streets still with the victorian houses standing and the pubs which are still open busy , my great grandfather moved away to Battersea and became a Covent Garden Porter in the end .

[@topbanana4013]

this is my town lived on Stepney green near the clock tower . there is a story when i was a kid there was secret caves around the grounds of st Dunstan's and there was an entrance somewhere around white horse road not lane

[@tomtucjr]

Very happy to see this video after asking if you'd be around Chrisp Street a few weeks ago. Fabulous production as always.

[@CameraNostalgiaClub]

Excited for the book!

[@claireclarkson3191]

Thank you also for showing me the flat I was born in. 36 Market Way...amazing memories of growing up on the market with family and friends... Thank You so much...❤

[@dss14dss]

John, how about Edward Bulwer-Lytton London route?

[@brianjrichman]

Thanks for the maps as part of the video. I had quite forgotten many of the places here - not been in this part of the world for over 2 decades now!!!

[@ashleysgaze]

An interesting area of London, John. Thanks for the walk - very engaging! ❤

[@julianwhite4855]

Fabulous video as always, thank you for the work you put in. We see parts of London that I’ve never seen and your knowledge and enthusiasm sweeps us along as we watch. Thank you John, keep them coming.

[@suewhite6612]

Loved this walk John thank you so much. Always mixed feelings seeing the aspirational post war architecture for the people and thinking what amazing things we could have created as a country if we had kept that agenda instead of rapacious profiteering and rentier capitalism

[@festivaljapan]

Amazing video. I'm your fan.

[@ralphwinter6421]

Nice one John, gud walk...

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Thanks Ralph

[@howarddavies9932]

What a cracking walk - so interesting - from the medieval to the modern era - thanks John for the ongoing quality and inspiration your walks provide.

[@kimbarnetson3297]

It's always such a treat to see a new walk video has been uploaded, thank you.

[@DemocracyDefined]

Lovely videos as always! Seeing my knock of the wood in a new light. Any chance of a Spotify playlist with the music featured in your videos. The music is always so beautiful.

[@JDMJOE]

Nothing more relaxing then watching one of your walks. Cheers John 🍺

[@Mrdorf14]

Literally thought that before I saw this post.

[@JohnRogersWalks]

Hope you enjoy it Joe

[@janetsherwood7210]

Pleasant always to walk along with you Mr. John Rogers. Even if via KZbin.🙂 Love England (London). I greatly appreciate your channel . From Tennessee (GMT 4) 🕊️🌳🌾

[@toni4729]

Why are we looking at headstones and your face when you're supposed to be showing us Stepney etc. What's the point in walking along looking at you?

[@JohnRogersWalks]

You appear to be in the wrong place Toni

[@toni4729]

@@JohnRogersWalks Apparently. You prefer to show us you. I'm in Australia, looking for sights of East London.

[@SMILEVIDEOTRAINS]

Nice to see John. Thank you

[@RubbishGimpy]

Two weeks ago I visited Chrisp Street, the market and walked through the Lansbury Estate. I observed how a 1960s council estate had successfully grown into itself and wondered if John Rogers had made a video on it. And then..............................

[@LesleyArnold-y3c]

Hello John... My dad took my older sister to the festival of Britain in 1951, and it has occurred to me how little of the population of Britain was able to experience the festival directly... I can't remember how they travelled there, but it would have been beyond the capacity of most people to do so, financially and socially. I wanted to say also that as a person who relocated from a rural life to the city in the 1970's, to live in East London, I did notice how the smaller locales ( groups of streets ) operated as villages... So that I eventually l felt more comfortable living there. Thanks for the "walks" we enjoy them immensely

[@LesleyArnold-y3c]

Hi John... Just adding .. would you consider walking down Burdett road to east India Dock road ? My old stamping ground and steeped in history of London's docks .?

[@davelawday6609]

Lovely walk.. thanks John. This one was really appreciated..my grandparents lived in Stepney way. Me and my sister always spent as much time as possible in the children's playground at the back of st Dunstan's...long gone now...that was 60 years ago...😊

[@michaelmiller641]

Oh yes, Ian Nairn, I have a battered copy of Nairn's London. When I visited many of the locations he praised and railed against! Your counterpart of the 60s and 70s His wonderful programmes on TV. And "Outrage!". Who drunk himself to death, tortured genius, to use a cliche. But I'm not familiar with that book, I'll have to look it up, and yours too, John.

[@user-bt4jg5lh4b]

Thanks John , great video , Im a fan of Ian Nairn and particularly like it when he moans about some of the modern architecture (1960s and 70s) . His scathing reviews are brilliant , funny and still relevant today , I advise everybody to look his clips up on youtube , theres some very entertaining moments

[@shirleymiller2631]

Hi John glad to see the seaman's mission is still there I had my wedding reception there on the 5/3/1969 shame you didn't visit hawkesmore church St Anne's said to have been the seaman's church where I married my husband in 1969.