Eastwood Line Flaring Tool Review -EricTheCarGuy

[@newls1]

Eric, I just want to throw this out there: I'm a long time car guy, parts counter salesman, etc.. im no longer in the business as im an EMT now, but i started this nature of work back in 1999 and sold parts at a "mom & pop" type parts store named Congress Auto Parts in West Palm Beach up till 2008. I stayed in the business for that length of time for CUSTOMERS LIKE YOU. I enjoyed being on a 1st name basis with my "good" customers, ordered "special" parts over phone for them, etc.. I was a great asst manager and made it far with in that company and i thank customers like you cause i LEARN from them! Thanks for all the great videos and reviews... Seth

[@ManicMechanic007]

Got sick of using the older flaring tool over the years at about 60% effectiveness. Bought the Eastwood tool and the Lisle 3/16" tube bending pliers and was astounded by the effectiveness of these tools.Awesome. Best tool combination I have purchased in years. I have not made a bad flare since. Thanks for sharing Eric.

[@LC-go1uh]

I've always gotten a 100% success rate with my cheap tool. I don't do enough brake jobs to spend the money on this tool.

[@stevemarra1534]

Another quick way to measure the brake line diameter, put the open end of a wrench over it. A 3/16" wrench fits snugly over the 3/16" line and a 1/4" wrench fits over the 1/4" line, etc.

[@lucasholt3482]

sorry if anyone covered this already, but you mentioned that 37 degree flares are becoming more popular with builders for "some reason". The reason is in fact, stainless steel lines. You're supposed to use a 37 degree single flare on stainless line because of its nature to easily become damaged or split during the multiple bends required to achieve a 45 double, or even a 45 single flare. If you want the nice shiny stainless lines, you gotta do single 37 flares!

[@speedjunkie13]

I use the Ridgid flaring tool specifically for stainless lines. It doesn't press the whole flare at once, it presses in a circle, slowly flaring as it rotates. I have this Eastwood flare tool also but I'm having issues now getting a flare that doesn't leak, and I've barely used it.

[@briansmobile1]

When you were talking about the other style flaring tool I said out loud "they suck!" I have a set from MAC tools and I hate it. I thought money could solve the problem by buying a nicer kit. Nope. A nicer design is in order. Especially if you work on Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep much. Let's just say their brake lines are "creative" (Frankenstein one-offs) and never in stock. I'm buying this. Take my money! There I go again...

[@ericthecarguy]

It's a sickness many of us deal with. I understand. I'm here for you.

[@briansmobile1]

$50 off was more than enough to cover the $20 shipping.

[@ChristofferOdden]

Looks like I need it....

[@waynec6059]

Yeah, crap, wish I'd have had this for the other brake line jobs I've done. Just got done buying a new one of the lame type not 2 weeks ago too. Guess I'll have to hope the deal holds a while so I can save up the pennies for this.

[@briansmobile1]

Buyers remorse huh?... sorry man. I just ordered this tool and the 37 degree die that everyone with a choice seems to love. When Eric said it was "life changing" the part of my brain that trusts him and the part that hates flaring made a commitment to go for it. I'm excited to try it out!

[@kirklanddavis]

Glad I found this video, I have to redo all brake and fuel lines on a CJ-7 jeep project and I was regretting using the old tool I've used before. I'll definitely give one of these a try on my next paycheck. Thanks Eric.

[@RonGrosinger]

Oh man.... I used the old style to do my Ranger once. Now that I had that experience I can justify the $200 for this upgrade. I knew about the $200 one from Eastwood, just tried to make the $60 dollar old style work. Had to remake several flares as they were off center. Spent lots of time... learned a lot about flares. Like learning to use hand tools before power tools.

[@resinductelec]

I have been using the Master Cool hydraulic hand tool and it works great. It will do double flare, inverted flare , push connect, metric bubble, and GM transmission. All at a cost of $300.00

[@SkinnySRT8]

37 and 45 degree at that price?

[@billhayward2668]

I got the cheap flaring tool years ago,out of 30 or so flares I made with it, 3/4s of them leaked.I ended up buying lines already made up! My new Eastwood tool came today,read the instructions,didn't quite understand how a bubble flare was made. Your video made it clear,thanks! The cheap flaring tool is going to the scrap metal pile!

[@MagaRickn]

Excellent tool, and fun to use! I'm restoring an old 56 Chevy, not a full time mechanic, so I found a Vevor flaring tool, pretty much identical, for less than $100. Comes with basic dies, and tubing cutter. Does both 45* and 37*. I love it!!

[@EpicHeroSandwich]

37 degree flares are for stainless steel lines, with two part an3 fittings.

[@fenrizwulf6682]

Open end wrenches are good for determining tubing size, too. In this case, though the tubing odd only going to fit into to clamping die of the proper size, so those work nicely for finding the size too. Great video!

[@kimblekottmann]

I love your deliberate step by step demystification of auto work, thanks.

[@motorheadv10]

That has to be the best flaring tool in existence. I've been using the blue point flaring kits for years with no trouble but now I see an upgrade in my future.

[@shadowdog500]

I bought mine a year or two ago and love it. Brake lines are a breeze now. I got mine off of Eastwood's eBay page. They are a little less expensive there.

[@petrocksgarage]

Another great & informative video Eric. I have no doubt that this tool works great, is well built and well worth the price if you're doing a lot of brake lines in a shop or something. But for the DIY'er like myself (and I presume the majority of your viewers) who rarely has to flare hard lines, this tool is a little pricey. I just wouldn't be able to justify the expense for a tool I might use once a year or so. The 'clamp' style tool is available for rent from most auto parts stores for 'free' so most DIY'ers will probably gravitate towards that tool rather then a $200 tool. A video on how best to use the clamp style tool would be awesome though and probably help a lot of your viewers. Thanks.

[@michaeljohn8905]

I was looking at buying this .I’m a 3 year aviation mechanic about to take my certifications. Im lookin to see if I can use this as I work for a flight school and our planes get ridden hard and put away wet. Oh yea and all our airframes were made in the 70,s and on up. Mostly nothing younger than 2003 😂 . Point is we have to keep these things going no matter what and they have to be safe. It’s a tall order but if you really like working on old stuff this jobs for 🫵 Anyway thanks again I’m gonna buy these tools because I can’t tell you how many hydronic lines and brake lines we have done this year. Anyway like to say thank you for this video ! It’s not just for car guys Eric ! Your helping us fly boys too! IM A LONG TIME VIEWER OF THIS CHANNEL. one of the best on you tube. Thanks Easy E ! Your a quality guy. Would love to have a beer with ya one day. Lol. See ya ✌️ Mike M . KLZU Briscoe airport Atlanta .

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

It's nice to see that DIN standards still do have some international meaning (since you input the "DIN" in brackets below the name "bubble"). DIN stands for "Deutsches Institut für Normung" (German Institute for Standardization) and is the standardization instance I grew up with, before there were any other standards in this place - there was a DIN standard for anything and everything ;-)

[@jpjoneso]

Recently picked up a very cheap GM wagon with rotten brake lines. I have always shied away from a car with this problem, mostly because every mechanic I have known has ruminated about what a PIA this kind of work is. I watched your vid on the Fairmont brake line replacement, and I am super appreciative of the way you approached the task. I am, as a DIY guy, ordering the Eastwood tool, yes, a lot of cash, but do it once, do it right. Still beats paying the local jerk.

[@crawford323]

AN Fittings ( believe or not stands for Army Navy ) is approved for aircraft. AN fittings use a 37 degree flare. I have been told the reason being the stainless steel will tend to crack when flared to 45 degree.

[@rtta51]

I've had the hydraulic one for years now and it is really nice and yes you can use it ON the vehicle. Always buy the best you can afford even if it hurts. good job Eric. I'm a fan and member

[@cadavatar]

Being able to fabricate brake lines is an awesome capability. Shops often charge a LOT of money for brake line replacement, so in places like the the Northeast it's not unusual to find used cars that are in good shape but need brake lines that are available way under KBB valuation. Spools of brake line are only +/- $25 and I tend to re-use the original fittings with no problems.

[@timramich]

I don't think that first step makes a bubble flare. You would need to use the other side of the die, that says DIN, to make a proper bubble flare.

[@farmboy30117]

I bought one of these tools when I was replacing my brake lines. Money well spent!

[@bestbuildpc]

Thanks a lot for the explanation. I never thought they were gonna make something so beautiful and easy to manipulate. Amazing tool.

[@D3thM3tal]

I bought one of these not too long ago and its takes all the hard work out of doing brake lines - they are actually fun to flare! I've been getting away without lube, but WD-40 is good enough. After your flare, slightly loosen the blue clamp and wiggle the line - that frees it up so when you pop the pin and swing the clamp off the line is not stuck to the dies. What I like doing is removing a line off a vehicle and bending it to match and flaring new ends. This is much easier and you don't have to use that clamp too under a vehicle. Oriley Auto sells a REALLY nice hand flare tool like he shows above - it looks to be better material and has a better case. Just tell the guys you are buying and not renting, or have them order a fresh un-opened flare tool to buy. Worth every penny - everyone will want to borrow it.

[@Derpy1969]

At the 5:XX mark, you are holding the tubing pliers backwards/they are facing the wrong way. You should always have the round opening of the tool on the outside of the bend so when you bend the tubing, it sits in the curved portion of the pliers.

[@spacepirateivynova]

A proper brake flaring tool will save a lot of heart-ache. We needed to replace the ENTIRE rusted out brake line system on an old pickup truck we got that had sat for almost 10 years. My room-mate at the time took this on, and got a cheap flare tool, annnnd.... well... I believe it's still having leakage problems after 3 attempts. A good flare tool and good brake line will save you MANY HOURS of work and tracking down brake leaks that are inevitable with a cheap tool.

[@T25de]

suggestions for you Eric- a nice sand paper can be used for clean up the outer edge of the tubing, doing it by hand this way will help prevent taking too much off with a grinder. if you do not have a de-burring tool a heavy grit paper can also be used in the inside of that lip and just finish it off with a fine grit to get a nice clean surface. lube on the working end is necessary and will help out a lot, glad you didnt leave that out of the video. the tubing pliers you were using make an excellent solution for bending line while in place, or for things that do no have to look pretty, but a quality handheld tubing bender will be justified if appearances are important. we always used the 37.5* AN flare or a swagelok compression fitting for cryo applications- the latter also being great for creating fittings while in place or when a very small 'back-to-back' fitting is required. as always great video ! (^_-)v

[@ericthecarguy]

Cool. Thanks very much for the suggestions.

[@todd5082]

My directions that came with the kit says “oil or anti-seize”. Great video by the way. Thanks!

[@LikeASimpleLife]

When using the tubing cutter I have found never go the same direction in turning. It is best to turn than tighten and turn back the way you came. This helps if your tubing cutter is worn or not properly aligned. It will give you a more consistent cut.

[@robertdavis6708]

Always DABBLE CHECK your flairs! Nice video Eric. You're the man!

[@davidgagliardo3258]

Thanks for the review! I purchased this tool last night. Can't wait to use it! BTW, a Miami Dolphins fan must have had a hand in choosing the colors!

[@Cragified]

Just from observation of the tool in the video I like the chunkiness of the load bearing parts of this flaring tool. Structual mass really helps the tool not flex and bend when using it so the tool is more precise (not to mention durable).

[@mattygee5000]

I think any demonstration of a bench grinder should include description of hazard created by grinding non ferrous materials. Great channel. I've watched a lot of your vids and enjoy them all.

[@ldickson5]

I bought one on your recommendation and love it, except... For the life of me I can't get it to form a proper double-flare with 3/8 steel line. 3/16 works flawlessly, but after more than two dozen attempts with 3/8 I've given up. I've tried various degrees of chamfering, two different brands of line and the result is always the same. ~270° of the flare end is perfect and ~90° looks only partially formed. Any ideas?

[@bryanhudson4645]

Instead of drill bits, how about taking a 3/16 wrench or 1/4 wrench and see if it will fit around it

[@tomasgonzalez7014]

Thanks carguy I just bought the tool and you really taught me on how to use it ,yes it is a great tool 🔧

[@nancywalker1325]

😍 I'm in love! This video is 7 years old and I'm just now seeing it 😳

[@benjaminbreitenbucher7910]

Thanks for taking the time showing me what this tools can achieve. My wife will yell at me for hours, but i'm buying one.

[@kevinmalone3150]

Eric, check out the Mastercool MSC71475 hydraulic flaring tool. Will do trans/steering/fuel line flares so you don't need to buy those "repair lines" to change a filter on a really rusty GM. Lines went from being miserable to being tolerable.

[@kevinmalone3150]

also, you can use it on the vehicle. no vice required!

[@jimmacumber4337]

Kevin Malone i agree Kevin,awesome tool. i paid 390 to my door but i can also do twice the lines and on vehicle.

[@rziem5538]

They sell the pliers at Harbor Freight on the cheap.

[@raykettel1837]

Yes, I was found the bending tool at Habor Freight and another one that is smaller that I prefer. The Eastwood flaring tool is sold under TGR brand for $180 on Amazon.

[@SaraW-es4qk]

The best video I saw yet. Great detail and explanation. Looked at many videos and for me, this was spot on. Thank you Eric Sincerely John

[@frankg6563]

Just two quick comments. One is that it is unlikely that we will "deburr" a 5 or 6-foot length of tube on a bench grinder. A uniform end is not likely. I would use an "inside" and "outside" deburring tool akin to what bullet reloaders use. It is fast, uniform and clean. Second is that bending plier works better on Nicopp tubing and is an awesome tool to use while you are fitting the lines around all the obstacles along the chassis. Quick hint: use a little brake fluid on the tip of your finger over the end to be flared to ease the flaring process. Just a smear will do.

[@JoeFpoc]

this thing is amazing. had it at my old job you can double flair a brake line in like 5 seconds once you get good with it. changed jobs where we do alot less brake lines and going back to the regular flare tool sucks. if anyone does alot of brake lines or flaring of any kind this is for you. where as you may flare a line once every 4 years then yeah just stick with the manual one

[@josh33025]

I wish I knew about this tool about 4 months ago when I had to replace my brake line on my f-150 from the rabs block to the rear. I had bought two flairing tools which were crap and then got one from K tool international. It worked OK but still could not get a consistent flair. If I have do it again I will definitely get this tool and by the way bending lines isn't fun at all especially when you have to go around things on the vehicle a certain way.

[@fpvgtking]

"Perhaps you could give this to somebody you don't like" lmaooooo

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Hahaha! I liked the "Dubble". ;) Nice tool, but it's too limited for that kind of money for me. Were it usable under the car in tight spaces, then it would be great.

[@Mintonperformance]

with the tubing bender pliers, you want to hold the pliers the other way around to bend them. with the curved part of the pliers facing the bracing point of where they're being held

[@ericthecarguy]

Yea, I actually thought about cutting that part of the video but I wanted to leave the pliers in. Perhaps at some point during a project I'll demonstrate how to use them properly. Thanks for your suggestion.

[@Mintonperformance]

:)

[@Blazer02LS]

You may want to look at the sliding block style as well, The pliers work good for tight bends in close to fittings and areas like that but the other style usually are easier to use.

[@Saint1533]

Eric! Get rid of the old school steel line. Give cupro-nickle line a try, No rusting, super easy to bend. Its a bit pricey but once you use it you will never go back!

[@joshuaburkey5841]

Haven’t watched the video and I already need this

[@Passionate747]

Eastwood brake flaring tool everyone must have one . The best tool for brake lines.

[@louisschilling5705]

Very interesting tool....seems like a great bench tool. Someone had commented that flaring steel 3/8" line was a problem I have to ask what you doing with the steel line? Power steering maybe?....We use 3/8" aluminum line for fuel injection and the aluminum is good for 300 psi. Also I didn't see it anywhere, but many hot rodders like to do their brake lines in stainless steel, but if you do so make sure your SS line is "annealed" not hard....soft enough to flare correctly, but plenty strong for brake line pressures...

[@UBBERTANKER]

you should check out the mastercool set, it does brake and fuel lines and a few of the guys at my shop have them and they work awesome. it also doesnt need a vise so you can do flares in the car.

[@BigFrogs4x4]

I just bought this tool. Love it and haven't even used it. Saw it at a truck show being demonstrated and had to have it. I was going to do a video on it but yours is so good I'd be wasting my time. So can I do a quick video sending people to your video on this tool and your channel? I'd link in in the description and a card if I can. Good job man!

[@CollinsProjects]

I've been happy using the regular "bar style" flaring too from Matco. Other brands haven't quite cut it though...

[@rosen9425]

All the things that can be done if done just as correctly as easily. Tools. It's important.

[@lemagreengreen]

Hi Eric - you should review the Trident flare tool. It's very consistent, cheap and can be used in situ. I think they're available in the USA - sold by AB Tools-Bond apparently.

[@markbenoit]

The problem with the other tool from my experience and what I see other people doing is: you need to tighten the clamp nearest the tube 1st then tighten the other one, if you do it the other way around the tool has no leverage to tighten down right then the tube slips on you.

[@punker6506]

we have had this kit for a while at our shop. it is branded S.U.R.R.A.R. One of the guys bought one of the hand help hydraulic flaring tools and it is BOSS!. i reccomend spending a few more bucks and going with the hydraulic tool

[@owenprince4823]

Eric: You should grind of the face of the stone and not on the side. I met a fellow who had his thumb blown off from a grinder because it had a micro crack in it and when he was grinding on the side it exploded and took his thumb off.

[@jackhaller5189]

Great video and fantastic tool. I purchased one several months ago and agree with you Eric it is a must have tool.

[@OKRODDER]

These are the shit! Those are exactly what we use in the aviation world...

[@Mebob2001]

great tool, but one major issue. its ment for a vise... so when you go to try and use it under the car it's useless, there alot of modren cars where its impossable to make the line before installing it, they got the bloody things wraped all over the place. i perfer the one napa, snap on, matco ect... sells where its a little portable ram with the same die's but it can also do other things besides just flare's. awsome review eric!

[@ReedsAuto]

Nice kit and certainly a step up from the traditional tool. However, I'm not a fan of being confined to the vise. Sometimes I need to flare a line that is already on the car. I use the Matco hydraulic flaring tool. More pricey but it's worth it for the portability.

[@tpcoachfix]

I use open end wrenchs to measure the size of the line. Example 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16 inch.

[@buckct147]

I’ve got mine,believe me no disappointment here,pricey but we’ll worth it!!!!👀💯

[@sangkim1035]

Great tool, but has limitations. I can do all my flaring with $70 tool, with some practice you can get pretty good at it and is small enough for you to carry under the car.

[@markbenoit]

$250 is hard to justify for this tool how many brake line jobs does the average mechanic get? You might do one then a few years go by before you need it again. I build race cars and have plumed whole cars but theirs just not enough profit to get this tool. I like seeing how it worked though I think you could have cut the video down by about 2/3 of the time. I would have like to see you once just flaring it without the pausing in between to see the speed of it. 37deg flares are used on "AN" (army navy) fittings (them blue and red ones you see on race cars) they use a support sleeve on the back of the tube flare and only need a single flare, so they are pretty easy to work with because doing the double flare is the part that is hard on that "other tool"

[@ykmalachi]

In the last 12 years or so I've bent lines by hand and never once had a kink or buckle in any metal lines. I use kneecap for large soft bends or thumbs for tighter radius. But the fabbing of lines I found really sucks are arse. Those flaring tools have about a 50% success rate for me.

[@lwuajiro]

Just bought it ....because of this video. Awesome tool dude! Thanks!

[@uncleslayton2097]

Eric, I like how in this video you already knew about the tool, had already used it, and were already familiar with it, as compared to when you unbox and try out a tool for the first time. I think this is a better style review. Do you plan to do this in future reviews? Cheers!

[@ericthecarguy]

I'll consider it. Thanks for the input.

[@williamallen2817]

Nice setup for a production shop, but I would have a heck of a time getting your bench and vice under the car. I want a tool to use mobile, cut, splice, done. I don't get 70%-80% success with cheaper tool .Not always quality of, but always the quality of the mechanic . Do a couple test flairs, if your not sure.

[@TheUghhJunkie]

AN fittings are great I use them all day at work....parker aerospace has tons of those in all sizes.

[@evoGage]

Great looking flare at the end. So simple to use too!

[@Banditt42]

I just did my whole brake line to both rear tires. I am using the crappy tool that Eric wants to give to a friend he doesn't like. I can see why since all my Flares, except one, leaks.

[@enginerepairguy]

about finding out the sizes, just use the dye :D easier because you have it right on your hand, and about at the most shops in Denmark we use copper brake lines, because they dont rust and are easier to work with, and we have a lot of salt on the roads at winther time. but brake lines is hate job for everybody especialy on a newer VW Transporter/caravelle

[@1darslars]

I love Eastwood's stuff!

[@ericiisurdaddy2985]

Definitely a good review..I will be buying that set with the 37° also

[@SpacemanFan1988]

Try the Phoenix V12 brake bleeder. Great tool and easier to use

[@martjames6608]

I use a tube bender for 90 degree bend's w/ flare fitting nuts on both ends, the distance between the flare nuts will be determined by the thickness of the die or tool holding the aluminum or copper tube to be flared. U have to install the fittings onto the tube after inserting into the dies or holding tool. The cheap tool u wanna throw out is only 3/4" thick compare to what ? Eastwood's 2"+ thick dies? When making a "Short" 90 degree tube bend W/ flared double nuts. the 2" of tube on each side of the 90 bend to hold into the die will turn out to be 4" more tube to the 90 bend, " Not Good" for making "Short / Tight" 90 bends

[@solesearched]

Love Eastwood. They make some quality stuff.

[@johnoshibe4163]

I need this Eastwood brake tube flaring tool

[@johnoshibe4163]

Hi

[@stevesas4394]

It has been about two years since I needed to review One of your videos.I was shocked to see you thinner & cleaner cut (goatee)You looked good/cool when you had the added weight and the scrunchy hair face.Your face was more full nevertheless, you have a fantastic voice. A voice for radio.

[@18iser]

The true benefit of the cheap tool is that you can acteally use it while the brakeline is still on the car, like for example if you only need to reflare or smoething.

[@ericthecarguy]

Yes, that is true.

[@tomclark3592]

EricI bought this tool after watching this video and I love it. Have you tried the other flare tool from Eastwood that you can use on the car? If so, do you like it?

[@spacepirateivynova]

Some VERY EXPENSIVE cars, usually italian supercars, may use multiple line diameters and some non-standard lines, and some really weird hydroformed pieces, but if you own one of those cars you are probably taking it to a tech that works EXCLUSIVELY on those cars, and gets to top dollar for their work.

[@niole2113]

I greatly appreciate that you gave a tip on how to de-burr/clean up the end. I don't have a bench grinder though so I am still fuzzy on how to prepare the end for flaring. Help? Do you flush out the completed line with ??? brake cleaner? water? air? *Love your instructional videos and especially this one as I have a big brake line job ahead and no clue-- like I didn't get how the fitting thing works until you showed that it is going to apply a clamping action on that flare, screwing into ... hmm. whatever it threads in to... Any tips on torque for installing a fitted brake line like this? snug + ? Someone mentioned that you can use the other type of tool under the car, so maybe it is worth keeping. I WAS going to buy one of those and try to figure that out, but I have seen the light, and well on my way to justifying buying a more "lifetime tool."

[@trailblazer632]

they have actual deburring tools. some of the tubing cutters have them built in especially the larger ones. ive also used pointed punches to debur the inner wall and simple sandpaper on the outside will do just fine

[@P46345]

You may want to use brake fluid to lube things up, that way there will be no chance of any contamination.

[@tnt-lu4ue]

on sale now for $199.99

[@yazmo109]

great video but i wish you tell us the application for different kind of flare

[@busdriver1469]

Hi I have a 2001 chevy tahoe 5,3 vortec and i live in Norway….i tried to double flare like i have done before on my old chevy van 1990 ,but that flare did not fit my tahoe….it only leaked everywhere,so i ordered your kit here Because i think you use a different standard on american cars than we do here and hopefully the flare you did in this video is the same as the one i have on my tahoe….can you confirm this?i like your channel it is detailed and very easy to understand….you should probably be a teacher😉💪👍TS from Bergen Norway

[@trailblazer632]

i do have one issue with this set. how exactly do you do lines on the car if its a vise mount system? if youre a production mechanic making lines on a bench with fine measurements is simply to time consuming when compared to using the old school tool. now granted i have had some really really crappy flare tools. the harbor freight one like you showed... well it works. but it has a lot to be desired. now they do have a handheld version of the estwing tool thats hydraulic. but it is a pain to setup with the different dies and extra pieces trying to place in a specific order all at once. the best thing ive found has been the ATD brand old school style kit. i got the full master kit with the bender and tubing cutter since my cutter was shot already the price was right. i have yet to have a single bad flare from this tool. its small enough to do lines on the car in tight spaces. its smoother than youd ever expect in operation and has me sold on ATD tools. for the 79~85 dollars i would highly recommend it. i do brake lines at least once a week sometimes every day. ive gotten to a place where i can comfortably reroute and run every line on a car in the factory places in only a few hours sometimes as little as 45min depending on the routing. brakelines are no longer a miserable adventure. one of the few tools id stake my reputation as a tech on. the ATD 5478 master brakeline kit

[@workingshlub8861]

i just bought an off brand one like this for 140$ ...works great ..

[@UberAlphaSirus]

I'm not quite sure you where using them there pliers quite right, looks like they make nice tight rads.

[@ericthecarguy]

I wasn't. In fact, I almost cut that from the video. Perhaps at some point I'll be able to use them in a video. In fact, I found a compression fitting on one of the brake lines on the Fairmont the other day.

[@jayamd3579]

half the pipe in the die and half the bit in the die see if it wobbles?

[@ronbunker5778]

Really good tutorial, very easy to understand!

[@jetjazz05]

I don't know... if it's 70% effective and I do it once every 3 years I rather buy the 25 dollar tool from Harbor Freight than spend 200 on a really nice machine. I do love tools that work good and will last forever, but at the same time I have to ask myself; is it going to be worth it to me? Sometimes the difference between a bad tool and a good tool is 10, 20, even 50 dollars, and that's fine. 175 dollars difference though... I actually went to the junkyard and pulled brake lines off a car rather than making new ones or having them fabricated. The junkyard charged me 1.50 per line, and they were good as new and OEM quality since they were OEM.

[@jetjazz05]

Still loved the video though! Sorry for sounding critical.

[@Tedybear315]

Jesse Crandle Issue with the cheaper 'clamp' type flare tools is that the knurls that hold the line in place round over far to easy. Now if you're smart? OTC makes a tool called a "Stinger" that looks exactly like the cheapo double flare kits. Runs about $25-$30 at Autozone (where I ordered mine from) Napa sells it for $45-$50. The tool is made from better steel and it resists rounding over/flatting out the tube retainer part. I've used it for over 2 years now and it's been rock solid. Unlike the cheapo house brand ones they try to push off---that you'll be swapping out every 4 to 5 flares when the line slips out of the tool.

[@Cragified]

Well there is also the factor of what material are you working with. For example mild steel lines can be bent and re-bent with virtually no issue so making a mistake isn't going to make you start back at square one. BUT for example if you are using stainless steel once you bend it stays bent. So if you screw up a few flares and end up having to cut back too much you might end up having to bend a new piece instead of being able to modify the bends to make it reach.

[@MrAnthonyfym]

i use a wrench to determine the size of line if its 3/16th a 3/16 open end wrench should go over the line snug

[@EFSOutdoors]

Take a 1/4 wrench and put the open end on the line, if the line can wiggle around between the jaws of the wrench, its 3/16 if it fits snugly its 1/4 thats how I tell if my eyes cant tell me off the bat.