Easy DIY Home Backup Solar Power System & Battery - 6000xp Install and Test

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

*FULL KIT* (affiliate links) -Eg4 6000XP Inverter...signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=DiySolarPowerFun ($50 Discount Code: RAY) -Ruixu Battery... www.ruixubattery.com/?ref=fOKapj_VLUpGf4 -Ferrule Crimping tool...Amazon: amzn.to/3xgw7oE -2/0 Ring Terminal Crimping Tool: amzn.to/3yp8Z7T IWISS's Site: glnk.io/jlyz9/ray (5% Discount Code "RAY5") Battery Cable Crimping tool: IWISS's Site: glnk.io/jlyz9/ray (5% Discount Code "RAY5") -Ring Terminals I used: amzn.to/47GcyUQ -HardieBacker Cement Backerboard...Local hardware store (Thank you LithiumSolar for recommending this) -60 breaker(Verify that this fits your panel): amzn.to/44PXwKG -Polaris Connectors: amzn.to/4bDdNog -Torque Screwdriver: amzn.to/3V5q7Iz -MaxiFlex Nitrile Palm Coated Gloves...amzn.to/3J0K4JD (I love these) -Wire Guage chat: www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1437/Part_1%3A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit Klein cl900 Meter: amzn.to/4bKuDBK -OTHER BATTERY OPTIONS: ---EG4 LifePower4 Server Rack Battery: signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=DiySolarPowerFun ---EG4-WallMount Indoor Battery(Self heating): signaturesolar.com/eg4-wallmount-indoor-battery-280ah-51-2v-14-3kwh-indoor-heated-ul1973-ul9540a/?ref=DiySolarPowerFun ---EG4 PowerPro WallMount Battery(Fully Waterproof): signaturesolar.com/eg4-powerpro-14kwh-all-weather-lithium-solar-battery-wallmount/?ref=DiySolarPowerFun *Chapters* 0:00 Intro 3:35 Installing 6000XP 21:19 Connecting RUIXU batteries and Communication with EG4 6000xp Inverter 23:42 Selecting Breakers and Wire Sizing 27:27 Ruixu Racking System 27:53 LOAD TESTING (eg4 6000XP) 37:43 6960 Watts on one leg...Unbalanced. 38:34 Summary

[@BucolicAholic]

I've been racking my brain incessantly searching for a thorough delineation of grid tie-ins and AC outputs on this system. You wouldn't believe how common place it is for other prominent figures in this space to skim over crucial details. High praises from my end. Thank you.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank you!

[@NickOutLoud]

I have had the hardest time finding a video that actually does a whole home backup that is grid tied. I want to have the ability to change over to the grid is the inverter goes down. This is the first video I have found that actually explained and showed how it works in the electrical panel!! Thank you!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks. They system Scott shows is this video is also very good and only has one large switch! kzbin.info/www/bejne/maGUdIJ_bdd3gNU

[@solarcharging9743]

Just a suggestion. Normally, an inverter's output, especially a small 6kW inverter's output is never wired directly to a home's main electrical panel. The reason for this is that during a power outage (with a family and renters) you typically will not be able to control the energy usage of your home's occupants which will lead to overloading and shutdown of your inverter. Especially when firing up multiple high inductance loads such as refrigerators, microwaves, AC units etc. A much better and safer way to hook up your loads is to select the emergency loads that you wish to operate during an outage which are within the 6kW limit of your inverter and remove those circuits from your main panel and install those circuits in an isolated subpanel that is fed only by your inverter through its internal AC transfer switch. This will also eliminate the need to flip the main disconnect that you purchased on and off every time you have a power outage. My company has sold thousands of off grid system all over the US and this is how we trained our contractor network to install these inverter-based backup power systems over the past 25 years.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks for the comment. My situation is a little bit different than the one you described. In my scenario I will be running my house all the time on my inverter. If the power goes out I won't even notice. However if the grid goes down and we try and turn on the large 240 volt appliances my system will need to restart and I will notice that. In that scenario... if i noticed the grid is down I will turn off the large 240 volt appliances in the breaker panel so they don't get turned on by accident and overload the system. I know people have been using critical sub panels on houses for a long time... I chose to go this route because it will save me money on my power bill and also act as a backup. I also like like the idea of having all of my Outlets available to power... who knows when grandma might move into my house and will need oxygen in her room. I don't want to have to always rewire that critical subpanel... if I really want to narrow it down to only a few circuits I can just flip some more Breakers pretty easy. Thanks for the comment.

[@lamjk10]

Do most or all hybrid inverters have this jnternal AC switch? Is it possible also to just split the mains and have 2 breaker boxes?

[@nismor3490]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRayhave you thought about paralleling 2 or 3 to split the load?

[@dwightyoung5495]

​@@min2olyAre you sure you paid attention? I believe the metal slider switch he installed would prevent that.

[@jeanronaldantoine7095]

Hi where the neutral wire come from

[@russell7489]

Great Post. You did a fantastic time explaining without drowning us with info. Your speeded up videos are stellar. Of course this is a reasonably robust test system, but it's not going to power your big loads, you'll need to make sure those are off (and tenants don't have say room heaters on) before switching between line and Inverter / Load Center. Your idea is the future, no back feeding. Utilities make out like a bandit on that and they own the gov't so we get paid almost NOTHING. It's not just the 'power', its the wear and tear on the system. Areas with solar back feeding into it from our homes, especially on hot sunning high load days, we are greately reducing stress on conductors 'down the line' that no longer have to pass through all that power we are feeding back in. Cables have a defined life based on load, less load, longer life. Home solar backfeeders get NOTHING for this huge capital cost savings we generate. Usually we don't even get the same rate we'll be charged for 'peak period' which is almost 3 mo of the year where i am. Things I'd have done differently as I'm REALLY cautious 1. 200 amp main breaker. You're close to 100 if stove, oven, AC etc all on a hot day when everything AC, Refrig will be laboring under max load to work. Every panel needs a max sized main breaker so a novice can shut everything off 2. If you see something running over 100% load, turn it off 3. Main disconnect above panel and Inverter / Load Center It does not need to be fused, just a disconnect marked MAIN POWER SHUT OFF so in emergency ANYONE can figure what to do to kill all power to everything fastest way possble 4. Bus bar sized for 200 amp. with lugs enough for - 200 amp on to panel via a transfer switch, 75 amp cable to Inverter / Load Center, as it feeds a 60 amp breaker and I want the wire to be on the safe side if there's a short / overload. You'll need a 200 Amp bus bar bar installation to feed 4 of these units eventually to power up the whole panel with maximum safety and flexibility. Actually I think you need 2 100 Amp bus bars, one for L1, one for L2. 5. 75 Amp down from bus bar to inverter / load center 6. 75 Amp up from bus bar to inverter / load center to another 2 bus bars, sized for 200 amps with lugs for 4 of these units... 7. 200 Amp cable from bus bars to transfer switch 6. Transfer switch line to Inverter / Load Center 9. 200 Amp line Into Power Panel Yeah that's like a grand or two of bus bars, switches, etc.. Might as well do that next as those prices are fairly stable whereas the Inverter / Load Centers will continue to drop in cost. Then you'd get more batteries, enough for 12 hrs? use? You'll need battery bus bars and circuti breakers too. Then finally more inverter / load centers. Bootstrapping like this is always the way to go. I am doing something just like this, to 4 or 5 batteries, to serve refrig, furnace, some outlets all the time from solar / solar to battery even on partly cloudy days so an over sized solar system, as an emergency power system, as power goes out here multiple times a month.

[@tomallgeyer6606]

Thanks for the post, you have applied the 6000XP in a unique way. It appears in your situation, the 6000XP inverter is running in bypass mode which means the inverter turned off....which equates to no money being saved. This assumes you cannot control your tenants usage. So.. when you put the 6000XP (in grid by-pass) in parallel with your service panel nothing is gained. In fact, your home loads are limited by the inverters 50amp by-pass rating (your testing showed 58amps). Additionally, your inverter is turned off after you service panels draws above the 6000w limit of the inverter. Now lets look at a grid down situation. During a grid down situation, one try's to minimize the reactionary activity associated maintaining power on critical circuits. During emergency power (Grid is down) the inverter is the only source of power. Meaning running at maximum by-pass will cause the inverter to shut-down immediately during the grid down event. you will need to shut off brakers to decrease the demand below 6000watt of the inverter. All of this seems avoidable by adding a 10-circuit ProTran transfer switch. Simply install next to your service panel. Benefits: your always saving money on those 10 circuits without regard to your tenants usage. And when the grid is lost you literally are not fussing around with maintaining power to the 10 circuits. Because you matched you 600W of inverter power to those 10 essential circuits. Just another thought.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I might switch one of the appliances over to gas... or add another one of these 6000xp. Summer will provide a lot of good testing scenarios to see how everything performs. I'll provide an update. I looked a adding a critical subpanel(10 circuits only). I didn't like it. It's an extra $400 and wouldn't provide the energy cost savings I was looking for. I also couldn't decide which circuit to add.. because I could only choose 10 and it may change in the future. In a power down scenario(doesn't happen often in my area) I'll shut down everything except for 10 circuits I've specifically selected(for now) to save battery power. and I can easily change what circuits are critical if needed....God forbidding the in-laws move in with c-pap machines. Thanks for the comment.

[@whitenas]

That's my plan. Way better than trying to power an entire house on 6000 watts

[@mikee2765]

This is the best detailed explanation I have seen to date. There are no assumptions made regarding level of knowledge. Thank you :)

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank you

[@Joelwilly57]

I got a price for Solar $137K I told them that they are crazy so I’m going on an DYI journey so thanks for this video!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Wow, crazy what they charge.

[@MrJar1rad]

​@diySolarPowerFunWithRay what size are your conductors coming from your main box , that you tap your 6 awg into ?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@MrJar1rad 2 awg. 👍

[@mysteryboyee]

Find a better company, 137K is a scam unless you're getting stupid amounts of solar or battery

[@alicat398]

Were you quoted to buy a major solar panel company by mistake?

[@robertcetti6935]

I enjoyed the testing with normal high house loads such as the a/c, dryer, stove. This video answered a lot of questions I had about this particular model of inverter.

[@robertcetti6935]

I have a question though. At 36:03 you say 1300 watts are coming in from the grid. However the reading on the display looks like 13,016 watts. Which figure is correct?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Dang it. Yeah, it was 13,000 from grid.

[@unnitocases4174]

ray ive been searching for a video like this for sooo long! Ive not found anybody to describe an installation with an offgrid inverter with grid backup in this way. This is exactly what im trying to do, save money and use grid as backup. Thanks so much!!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank you. If you use the links and discount codes, Email me your order number... I might have some items left to mail out as part of a the give away program.

[@coolcat312]

This is extremely interesting! I already have a manual transfer lockout (like the one you installed) wired to a generator inlet that we use for our portable generator during power outages. I would really love an automatic battery backup system and this is looking like a possible solution, although I will have to do my own research. I thank you for sharing what you’ve done!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Awesome, looks like you're half way there. This unit is new and has been very popular.

[@OrtexVideos]

Now this is a genius system!!!! Thank you so much for making this video. I have spent many late nights looking through the manual of this inverter wondering if this setup was possible, because it is truly ideal from a cost and regulatory standpoint. You answered all my questions!!! Also I love the transfer switch and the intercepting of your main lines, such an elegant solution. Disregard all the safety inspectors in the comments, they can go bother someone with a grid tied system 😂. You did a excellent and safe DIY.

[@markgilbo]

Great vid. Seems all the guys making a video of this inverter are way past the newbie stage. They need to tailor it back to “the new kid on the block” and show them a few simple ways this inverter can be used without turning your house into a nuclear power plant.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks. I agree. Hopefully I can keep things simple

[@kidcompany]

Excellent over view. Love the real world testing and showing the details. Thanks!

[@korishan]

Stumbled on your video/project, YT recommendation. Overall you are doing a really good job of explaining of everything 😎👍 One thing to note is that when shutting off a DC load (whether that be battery charging or some other DC device) while under heavy current, it's not the sudden "stop" that's the issue. Even tho electricians like to use water/piping as a comparison, the electrons don't slosh like water. Instead, the issue here is the actual switch that's cutting the load. If it can't handle the DC Arc that is created when disconnecting (think of a DC Arc Welder), then the switch will fail quickly, and when it does, it may go up in flames. Very nasty stuff The second thing, I noticed at about 36:40 point, is that your wires going into the breakers/switches are either not pushed far enough in, or have too much wire stripped bare. You should not be able to see bare wire easily if it is installed correctly into the lug terminals. You might want to consider snipping 1/8" off those wires, maybe even 1/4" if needed, then reseat them. The reason for this is that these are live conductors. If "anything" can make a bridge between those conductors, best case is there's a "Pop!", worst case is there's slow heating that leads to a fire. Lizards, spiders and snakes like to make homes in any kind of space they can fit into.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank for that advise. I'll definitely trim those wire ends

[@SihAza]

It appears your grid supply to the 6000XP is not via a breaker, rather direct from the meter. You apparently rely on the downstream Grid breaker at the 6000XP to protect the wiring. Perhaps fine per NEC code (I'm an engineer, not an electrician). Since you used individual wires in conduit, you could have used 8 awg (rated 55 A at 90 C). The exception to that is if you have more than 3 active conductors in the conduit. The 40 A limit is for NM (Romex) cable, or if any terminals are rated 200 A-hr, but didn't want to pay that much ($2500) and the 100 A-hr seems to suffice. I mainly wanted a battery to avoid drawing from the grid during 5-8p Summer peak pricing, after solar (PV) tapers off. Battery comm works, I think via the "Pylon CAN" choice (started working while trying stuff, can't see current protocol). I have 7.7 kW of panels. The 6000XP can't mix PV and grid power to supply the load. It can combine PV + battery (termed "EPS") to supply the load (or charge battery). It can also switch to grid (termed "Consumption") to power the load, while using PV + grid to charge the battery. Likely this prevents any back-feed to the grid. I set so the grid never charges the battery, because I want the battery to store only excess PV. It shows the grid still supplying a minimal ~50 W to the battery when PV is down. I suspect that keeps the battery alive and perhaps heated. I set the grid to be active only before 8 am and after 9 pm. If not, the grid was charging the battery in early morning to ~100%, leaving no space to store excess PV later. If PV + Batt doesn't suffice during daytime, it auto-switches to grid (Bypass) and appears to stay on Grid for some time (15 min?), showing "UPS insufficient " (or such), then switches back to PV + Batt. I haven't seen any glitches in the house when this happens (PC doesn't reboot). Once you connect the 6000XP to your home wireless, it sends data to an EG4 web server. You can view that data on a smartphone app or on a PC webpage. Those only update ~5 min intervals, but you can click to request an update.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks for the info. On the app(also configurable on the web) I have it configured to use State Of Charge "SOC" charging. In the charge setting. if the battery goes low it will only charge with grid up to 30%(fully configurable) and not to 100%.... Just in case the sun is about to come out and charge things.

[@kidcompany]

Great summary. Thanks!

[@OrtexVideos]

Thanks for the info!

[@renli3d]

Amazing comment! I'm going to use your design for my own system except I have a 12000xp. I think this inverter can output both EPS+grid power concurrently. Do you have your neutral-ground bonding at your main panel? I have a CSED for my meter and the neutral bond is at the CSED. My main panel in the house is not.bonded. it's tricky to figure out how to deal with bonding. Since you have no interlock the main breaker doesn't need to be shut off to use the inverter so I can keep my bond at the CSED.

[@telosfd]

The best video I've seen lately. Practical realistic measurements for house loads. Let me say this. That the consumption (loads) of the house, even when we are on the network, we never make them work all together. That i don't like are battery's connection "clip" system. I think in shortly of time power cables must replace with #3/0 gauge! Thanks a lot.

[@jeff-millieesterline4209]

Awesome Video Ray! I have been researching this setup (Inverter) for myself. I plan to use a 10 circuit transfer switch to run all of my critical circuits on solar 100% of the time. I installed an Emporia Energy Monitoring System for about $200. The insight into my energy usage has been incredible. I highly recommend the smart outlets to supplement the main unit As much as you seem to enjoy this, you would definitely like it too.

[@saeidmofrad6276]

Great job on the video. While viewing, I noticed a significant imbalance in the loads between the inverter outputs for L1 and L2. This imbalance is concerning because your inverter lacks a transformer and, therefore, does not possess a load-balancing feature. In off-grid scenarios, it's quite common for one of the legs to become overloaded due to unbalanced 120v loads, which may be beyond your control, while the load on the other leg remains significantly lower. As a result, the inverter may shut down, preventing it from delivering the nominal continuous load due to unbalanced loads. The recommended solution is to add an auto transformer between the inverter and the circuit breaker panel. This setup ensures that the load drawn from the inverter's legs remains balanced, even if the loads on the panel's legs are unbalanced. The auto transformer will correct the imbalance on the inverter side. However, it's important to note that adding an auto transformer can be complex, and it's important to consult a licensed electrician. This is particularly important for proper grounding and to ensure that the installation does not interfere with the utility transformer on the nearby pole, which could lead to voltage discrepancies and potential damage.

[@SihAza]

Perhaps, but any big loads are often 240 VAC, which draw almost equal from both legs. Even before installing my 6000XP, I found an imbalance problem in my kitchen. A 20 A breaker would trip when both the new Microwave and new Air Fryer were on together. I measured both had ~12 A draw. I moved the Air Fryer to another outlet which was on another breaker and no more problem. That outlet is on the other leg of the subpanel, so better balanced. I recall the NEC code requires kitchen outlets to be wired that way, perhaps to balance grid loading.

[@nihongobenkyoshimasu3190]

I would add a monitoring device, like Emporia, to monitor the consumption, and in particular check the balance between each phase.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

That was one of the main items I wanted to test as part of this review as I heard that the very popular Sol-Ark 15k transformerless inverter has balancing issues and would trip easily in off-grid scenarios. I tested the 3000 watts on a single leg in a off grid scenario and this unit did awesome! kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHKtc6yEh6iqZs0. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHKtc6yEh6iqZs0 I'm not sure what they did differently but this unit handles it great!

[@p35flash97]

Damn dude. This is almost exactly the type of setup I was wanting but I just couldn't figure out how to do it. Thanks for the video I appreciate it. I subscribed. You have good content.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks, Sometimes it's tough to find things on youtube! Feeling your pain bro

[@benkanobe7500]

Outstanding Job and outstanding well narrated testing. I could follow everything because of the way you explained it.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks!

[@f.w.1318]

When I was moving and looking for rental come across a home with a setup like this, the home had regular outlets but in the kitchen and Tv room there where other outlets with different color face plates, the realtor guy said it they where wired to back up system, and in the garage was a inverter box similar to what your showing, thanks for demonstrating this, I’m not an electrician and not familiar with this stuff,

[@peterw.3816]

Great idea there. This is just the way to do a setup for this inverter. Run separate adequately sized 3 wire romex to multi outlet surface mount junction boxes mounted near appliance clusters (ie kitchen countertops and fridge, laundry room, entertainment center, etc). Land those romex onto a small load with breakers, all fed by the two EG4 inverter output lines.

[@kyleo1236]

Do you have a fused disconnect or breaker before that panel? If not, then tapping the feeders is a code violation. You need to have short circuit protection before the tap and the breaker after the tap protects against overloads.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I currently have a 100 amp double pole breaker before the taps. It sits near my meter. I think I'm going to upgrade the tap lines to number two wire... so they can be protected by that 100 amp breaker

[@remingtonblack3457]

#3 is okay

[@markolejinczak228]

​@diySolarPowerFunWithRay

[@markolejinczak228]

Great video, yours is the only one that I have seen that is so detailed. Detail is essential. I have a question regarding your purpoted need to increase the cable size from your outdoor shutoff to your inverter. Wouldn't the 50 amp breaker on the grid input protect your smaller wire? Also as an alternative, couldn't you introduce a fused disconnect between your outside disconnect and the grid-input in your inverter?

[@sengyongyep3866]

The best channel I found that cut a lot of un-related information out of the way. straight to the point. I like it, I am exploring the same things, mainly DIY including the solar panel rack. so, hopefully you can share your way of mounting the solar panel.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank you. That video is coming shortly!!!

[@public0105]

Best In Depth discussion of application capability of an exceptional EG4 inverter!

[@Nera-whimwhams]

This is the setup I was looking to buy as well. I appreciate your time doing all of this. I know the ac in on the inverter has a 50amp breaker, but just in case you need to shut off ac, while still wanting to run loads, and as added protection to the inverter, a shut off 50amp between the polaris grid out and inverter might be nice, so you don't have to go outside to the main.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yeah that would be nice. I'm trying to think of where to put that while keeping everything looking clean.

[@DuncanCunningham]

I've learned a lot by watching you. I'm going to be trying something similar in my garage (EG4 6000xp) and have it like an off grid setup, batteries will take me a while to save up to build to what I want. I wonder if you are over loading that inverter, it will age faster, I don't know. Maybe look into a nice Sol Ark 15K, that is designed to do what you are trying. you can set it up to never push the excess solar to the grid and it is certified so if you ever have an inspection it should pass and the power company (and city) will have nothing to be worried about. I'm sure the EG4 6000XP is okay on the grid too, I just don't know that much about it yet. I feel safe off grid and connecting it to pull power like you are doing.. I'm just not as brave as you.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I think most of the time it will be idling low. Like showing in the beginning of the video. Except maybe during the summer? Davidpoz did a review of the 15k and it didn't do very well in off grid mode. It kept shutting down because he couldn't quite get his loads to balance right. I'm sure it does awesome with grid connected though. This system is nice though in not having to pay for the extra grid Interactive functionality. Another thing nice about this system is if you buy two you have redundancy if one inverter goes bad. Solar 15K would be awesome but it would be a single point of failure. I hear they are nice though.

[@jimgraham290]

Ray, great video. Very timely since I want to do the same thing when I upgrade from my Growatt 24v 3K to the EG4 6000 48v. This box is a beast. However, I think you maybe need 2 of these rather than running 1 at 100+ percent all the time! 😅

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I think you might be right. It should be interesting when summer comes along my air conditioning is running all the time.. If I convert that dryer downstairs to run on gas instead of electricity I think one unit might work for me. I'll try to run this system in the summer though and give it a try as is anyways. If you do end up wanting to purchase it, use my affiliate links and that will help the channel. They should also let you use my discount code as well. Thanks

[@jimgraham290]

@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Who have you had the best luck with, Signature Solar or Current Connected? Price for the EG4 6000 is the same at both places...

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@jimgraham290 the only thing I don't like about signature solar is sometimes you have to wait a while to get through to tech support. They are good about returns but It does take a long time. I have never returned anything from current connected... when I call current connected to tech support team, they answer right away. Both companies have good support though and are very knowledgeable. So that's a tough one. Signature solar is larger. So that could be a good thing or a bad thing. I like both companies though

[@kidcompany]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Took me forever to get an RMA out of signature solar for a bad unit. They are growing and busy. Doing what they can to keep up. Support times are hit / miss, but when you do get them on the line they are helpful. Typical growing pains. The techs say they love the 6000XP's. Great units.

[@robert5]

WOW.. this is exactly what I want to do. Thanks for making this video. Going to go watch the next video where you report on results after 2 months.

[@portlandlocalchurch8168]

An Emporia power meter system will give you usage stats for your power... I installed one with 16 feeds and it's great to have that information...

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I also installed one of these. Unfortunately it only takes the average high during a given window and I can't see the absolute peak power draw through out the month.

[@nwsteffey]

So how would you connect a second 6000xp to the electrical panel? Ideally you’d have another 60 amp double pole braker. But that wouldn’t work with the interlock switch. Do they make interlock switches that can handle more than one breaker? The other option would be to replace the 60 amp with a 100 or 120 and connect both 6000xp outputs to that one breaker. Might need a combiner box. Have you seen a setup with two of these?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yes you can definitely hook multiple of these together for more power. Possibly up to six units. I can't remember the exact number. I haven't seen an interlock kit that supports multiple Breakers.... so not sure on that one. You could get a larger double pole breaker to back feed into but you have to be careful that your panel will support the higher amps. If I hook multiple of these units together I think I might lean towards a manual transfer switch so I can feed the panel directly from the top. The manual transfer switch will determine if the power comes from grid or from my inverters. I think I'll do a video on this... 👍

[@MrButuz]

Good solid vid. Man the 100,000 quote for your neighbour they sure were trying to rip your poor neighbour a new one! For 100k i would be expecting 100kw of solar 30+kw of inverter and a 50kw battery at the least!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

The sad thing is it was the same size battery Bank as the one I have in this video.

[@MrButuz]

What? 10kwh for 100 grand? Man they may as well have just walked in to your neighbours house and robbed them properly!! :( @@diySolarPowerFunWithRay

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@MrButuz he's well off...He ordered 2 of them for 2 houses he owns. I wasn't sure what to say when he told me he bought those systems.

[@MrButuz]

Oh well what can you do. Theres an old saying in my country: a fool and his money are easily parted. @@diySolarPowerFunWithRay

[@AbigailSanchez-kc6eh]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRayshould have offered to do the installs for 50k

[@Fester_]

Good job, I enjoyed that. Check and test check and test test test. Real world loads. Nice. Enjoy.

[@ibenglish]

You do a very good step by step process. I was thinking of this for my garage but am sort of leaning towards daisy chaining the 18000 version with my solar edge grid tie to make it a battery back up and also add more solar panels. Any suggestions?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I would love to hear some thoughts from others on integrating this type of system with a existing solar Edge system..

[@jjm9902]

Hello. I'm installing this same inverter. As you mention (at about 20:30 in this video) would it be harmful to have 'AC from grid' and 'AC Load' grounded and use the neutral wire as well? Or were you meaning that it's just unnecessary? Thank you.

[@jd-gn1iy]

Thank you so much for this in-depth video. I am about to do the exact same setup for my sister and myself, really glad I found your video. Exactly what i was looking for.. Thanks again.

[@jimgraham290]

Ray, after I watched this video I was convinced that back feeding my panel with a 50 amp breaker and Interlock switch is the way to go. I was going to install a Pro-Tran 10 Circuit Generator Transfer Switch. Cost $400 This would require me to select 10 circuits I could run via my inverter (soon to be EG4 6000XP - currently Growatt 3K w/ ProTran 6 breaker Transfer Switch). After seeing how you did your interconnect, I was sold. I am going to run my #6 wires from the Polaris Connectors through a 60 amp AC Disconnect box: EATON CORPORATION DPB222RP This will allow me to remove the inverter without shutting off the main breaker at the meter. Thanks!!!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yeah those 10 circuit sub panels didn't make sense to me either. Good idea with the EATON box. I think I need to add that.

[@itech1129]

thank you i live in CA and our rate has gone up by almost 80% so now thinking of diy solar i have a small home so i hope i can learn more and doit myself.

[@Emma_Axe]

would you consider using this in your RV?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Depends on the type of RV you have? Do you have a large 50 amp RV?

[@mrct309]

Wow such clever use of an off-grid inverter setup. Questions, how unbalance can the loads be for just running on battery power alone (I assume 3kw, maybe more)? And when running in battery solar and some bypass mode, does the light flicker when bypass kicks in for large loads the inverter can't handle by itself?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

3000 watts only for this unit. Then the entire unit switches to grid when overloaded. The 12k might be better. I'll be testing this soon. I've never seen the lights flicker when it does the switch

[@jasonbroom7147]

I sure hope your neighbor laughed and threw that bid back in the contractor's face! :) It looks like that single 6000XP can be a tremendous value, even if you're still supplementing with grid power. I honestly hadn't considered that option. I was going to install two of the 6000XP units, but maybe one is all I'll need, freeing up money for more solar panels or batteries! :)

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yeah. If you have to buy two, it's not a bad thing because you'll have redundancy if one of the units goes bad. If you only have two 240 appliances I think you would be totally fine with one. I am probably pushing it with three of those large appliances around.

[@Swimmyrox]

You can get a soft start thing for your AC. I think it costs like $350.

[@hadikhanlums]

Did the mode change back to battery and solar only after the surge power draw or when the power load decreased back to less than 6kw?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

It automatically switched back to battery after the surge

[@douglasvamateurradioandmore]

I will eventually be putting together a system like this. I am planning on doing ground mount solar. I have a ham shack in the middle of the yard, putting shade on where the panels will be.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

73 👍. Kj7tqc

[@jefflucas_life]

6:50 that's what I need, 200a breaker panel. 12:30 Inverter VAC to main 60a double pole breaker to charge bus bar L1/L2. 18:04 Main Grid Polaris Connector to Inverter Grid L1/L2 AC Bypass to charge battery bank.

[@chamay9078]

Great video. I would like to know at night (no solar power) when you use the battery power but when the battery power depleted does the inverter will switch to grid power automatically without interruption? (No delay of power)

[@Off-GridMountains]

I have 2 6000xp inverters. Each with 2 lipo batteries from signature solar. Running in parallel in off grid mode. Runs everything.

[@bhbaker220]

Great video Ray. I have the EG4 3k inverter and thought about doing what you did in the video except in a sub panel that I have. I would have overloaded the unit occasionally and decided to go with the ProTran manual transfer switch. I had the Emporia Vue monitoring system before so I knew what circuits had the largest power consumption (ex the AC). If this 6k inverter had been out when I put mine in, I think I would do what you did. For me, the real elephant in the room is the 4 ton AC unit. I did put a soft start in it so the generator would start it. I’m pretty sure the 6k would run it but I don’t have enough solar and batteries to run it 24/7. I also have a grid tied inverter but the buy back rate has just dropped to $0.03/kWh which sucks! Thanks again for sharing the video.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Wow only three cents! That's pretty bad. I think these Battery Systems are going to start to be more popular. The nice thing about having grid connected to this is I don't need to add the expensive soft start on my air conditioner. The grid kicks in just for a split second to kick on air conditioner and then we'll turn off. I'm liking it so far. I will do a follow-up video on how much money it will save me in the summer. Hopefully when the air conditioning is running it won't pull a lot from the grid.

[@saupham8192]

EG4 inverter ac output ties to the grid, my question: the two sources will be synchonized together ? it means the solar ac output and the grid run together to support ac unit or when to start ac unit that runs by the utility ac only. Thank you very much. You did a great job.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Sorry I'm not quite sure I understand the question. This unit supports 240 volts split phase.

[@AgentOffice]

That's called grid tied. I'm not sure how this is setup tho. Seems to be off grid

[@DarrylADavis-rb4ji]

Use 8 guage wire at the charge controller-invereter. I also use used PV panels. Mine were 5 to 7 years old when they were switched out by the solar farm. I have had them running for 4 years. They still produce like the day they came out of the factory. 11 to 12 years ago.

[@jansmit4628]

When you made room for the 60A breaker, you swapped 4 single breakers into 2 double breakers. By doing so, you swapped 2 end user groups from one fase to the other. If these are low power users, or users with similar loads, it will not be a problem, but otherwise the fase load could be disturbed. You could correct that (maybe you already did) by swapping the wires to the engroups to the original fase on the new double breakers.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I added 2 tandem breakers. They aren't double pull breakers. The tandem breakers break independent of each other. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the comment.

[@jansmit4628]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Yes, but they provided energy for 4 end users I assume. 1 and 3 were on L1 and 2 and 4 were on L2 or visa versa. Now 1 and 2 are on L1 and 3 and 4 are on L2, so the load on L1 and L2 could have changed.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@@jansmit4628 That's true...Those circuits did swap places from L1 and L2. It hasn't really affecting anything though.

[@LarryRichelli]

Almost all Solar companies are a rip off. When you consider that quality panels are around $140 each and the price for batteries and inverters have come down, full systems should be more in the $10K installed but they are more like $30k to 80K. Crazy, I wonder when people will stop using these companies?

[@mondotv4216]

Batteries in parallel do not deviate over time. In fact the voltage has to be equal. With LiFePO4 they probably won't balance exactly until they fully charge or discharge as the voltage curve is very flat.

[@Dan_H_MT]

Ray, thanks for the video. You're missing the link for the Torque Screwdriver. Thanks

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks 👍

[@kevinmatthews2620]

just a suggestion to your ac, engineer 775 on here installs a lot of solar and he uses them all the time,it stops the amperage surge at startup on ac units, cheap too less than $200

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yeah I might need to install one. I thought they were more like $350. I am not sure what brand he uses

[@Mike-01234]

This is the only video I have ever seen that shows the 6000xp can supplement with grid power. I called Signature Solar, and EG4 they both claimed that it could not pull from solar and the grid at the same time it looks like from your video that it can do that. It never made sense to me because AIO off grid the grid input is simply a AC to DC converter like a battery charger adding DC power to the input side of the DC circuit how I assumed these worked.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

After using this for 2 months I can say that signature solar and eg4 are correct. It can only switch between Grid or battery/ solar. If I need a lot of power to start my air conditioner, it will temporarily switch to grid and supply boost of power and then it switches back to battery. If I have a load that's over 6,000 Watts it will switch to grid. During that time all of the solar will go directly into the battery. I will have a video on the shortly when I do a 2-month cost saving review.

[@mikee2765]

Great video, thank you, The link for the Polaris connectors go to a search page, Which Polaris connector is the correct one?

[@mikee2765]

Pretty sure this is the correct connector www.amazon.com/OhLectric-Multi-Cable-Insulated-Pre-Filled-Electrical/dp/B0BXZPLP6M

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@@mikee2765 That looks correct to me. I'll update the link. Thanks.

[@benkanobe7500]

Ray. My cheap system (not near the quality of yours) has Current Transformers ("current clamps") that monitor L1 and L2 so my solar, when there is excess, does not back feed the grid anything. On a typical summer day starting around 7:00AM my SmartMeter drops down to a total of 5watts and stays there all day until after 6:00PM. If my house A/C comes on (almost never as we have a window unit the solar can accommodate) then the meter jumps up to about 2kilowatts as I don't have enough inverter(s) or solar to handle that. I want to replicate my system but with more inverter capability both out put and solar acceptance/utilization, but need the ability I have now with Current Transformers monitoring my load and automatically adjusting. With the current transformers my system does automatically what your new system does without the need to switch anything. For those wondering what happens when the grid goes down, I have a small function generator that produces a perfect 60Hz sine wave so I can turn off my main breaker (manually) and turn on the function generator tricking the solar to turn back on. I have this tied to a generator manual transfer switch so no risk to the grid. At night I have batteries and two more cheap inverters ($350.00) that operate exactly as the day time ones do only they draw from my Sealed Lead Acid batteries (that work perfect for now). Those inverters remain "off" during the day and are turned on by simple "Christmas tree timers". So, ....... I was wondering if this new system of yours inverter has Current Transfomers so I could replicate my system but with way more capability. (my house heating, stove, and water heating are all propane so my electrical bill is seldom as much as $40.00 and we pay 0.69cents!!/kilowatt)

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

No CT 's on this one... I need to think of a way to hook this up to a house that has pre-installed solar grid system.

[@benkanobe7500]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Happy Easter!

[@todddunn945]

Just a comment about your batteries. Each of your batteries has its output current limited to 100 amps by its internal Battery Monitoring System. Since you have two batteries in parallel that means that your battery system can output up to 200 amps. Ideally you should size the wires from the batteries to the inverter to carry 200 amps. The current carrying capacity of wires (ampacity) depends on the size of the wire AND the temperature rating of the insulation. The table you used is for wire with 105C rated insulation. The temperature rating of the wire's insulation should be printed on the wire. For your application I would want 2/0 sized wire to be able to carry the 200 amps that your two battery bank can supply. You also need a 200A class T fuse in the positive lead between the batteries and the inverter. As far as your solar array is concerned, remember to keep the open circuit voltage of your solar array below the inverter's maximum rating of 480 VDC. I would suggest staying 50 VDC or more below that. Remember that the open circuit voltage of a series wired multi panel array is the sum of the individual panel open circuit voltages. So if your panels have a 60 volt open circuit rating you can use no more than 8 panels in series and preferably no more than 7. Also make sure your solar lead wire is rated for the maximum open circuit voltage of your array. I have one comment about that inverter. It appears to be a high frequency inverter, which is less robust than a low frequency design. If your really want to power your home for a long time, I would look into a low frequency inverter. Also I don't know what your wall is made of, but unless it is cement board, the fire code likely requires that your inverter be mounted with a metal backing plate. Finally, as pointed out below, you would be advised to install a secondary transfer panel for critical loads. That sort of panel serves two purposes. One it isolates the circuits on it from back feeding the grid when they are being fed from an inverter or generator and two, a transfer switch panel doesn't include the large loads like the AC or electric range which will drain your batteries very quickly. At present you have only a 10 Kwh battery bank, so the AC drawing 35-50 amps at 240 volts will completely drain your batteries in an hour. The electric stove will do about the same. Not only do you need a MUCH more robust inverter to consistently run those loads, but you also need a much larger battery bank (say 5-10 times larger) if you want to run those loads off the batteries. Ideally the battery bank should be able to run all attached loads for 4-5 days by itself for an off grid system. Also don't forget that your solar output will drop significantly in winter. How much it drops depends on your location. Check out pvwatts.nrel.gov/ to get a very good idea of just how much solar you will really need.

[@cbmecheng]

I’m interested in seeing how your 6000xp performs. I’m currently running a split-phase setup with two 3000w eg4 inverters. One inverter seems to fluctuate output voltage slightly. I have 3 - 5kwh eg4 batteries also. I’m currently running a small 1450ft sq house off grid with about 2.8kw Solar. I’m looking forward to following your project. Thanks

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Nice setup. I will have a 2-month cost savings video update soon. With grid pass through being available I didn't shut down once. I'm trying to get my system permitted. That's definitely going to be the hardest part I believe. The 18K has more certifications so I might have to switch to that depending on what my inspector says.

[@unlikeschool]

Very informative, thanks for sharing all of this. FYI that you sometimes said "hundred" instead of "thousand" for the load wattage.

[@gdad0683]

Very dangerous to run the battery cables through a metal cabinet knockout hole with NO grommets

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I do need to add those. Thank you for pointing that out.

[@1drhnsd1]

What gauge wire are you running between the 6000XP and your breaker panel? Looks a little small to me. Also, if you don’t already have one, consider installing a smoke/fire detector close to the batteries.

[@Darren-C]

Hey boss. These are just the calculations I needed. Thanks for the explanation! I’m building a larger electrical mobile unit out of an enclosed trailer I’ve converted to be powered by the 6000xp with 10.2kwh server no alternator charge tied. My biggest question is grounding the system in a mobile application with no grid tie. Is grounding to the frame fine because of wood blocks and rubber tires. Or do I need to tie the ground to a rod at every location. I’m worried times I’ll be around pavement only. Thanks again boss!!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

If there is no GRID and subsequently no Ground Neutral(GN) Bond...this unit should have a relay that will make the GN bond or connection... If you connect a plug to the grid input so you can charge when you're near "Shore power" or in a RV park, the relay should disconnect and use the GN bond that's in your RV park. I'd test and confirm this though, if it was me. Regarding earth ground... I'm not sure what the best solution for this is with a RV. You could carry a ground rod and pound it into the ground where ever you go camping and connect it to the Ground and Frame of your RV... But that would obviously be annoying. Maybe others have some ideas. Hope this helps. Thanks! Sounds like a sweet setup.

[@Darren-C]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Thanks Ray!! I heard this system had a ground relay option when not connected to the grid so I’ll follow up with EG4. Hopefully I’ll pass inspection sending the grounds back to the sub panel and grounding the panel to the frame and to the inverter. Thanks for the encouragement!!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I had to enable setting 26 to get the dynamic G/N bonding to work.

[@Darren-C]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Good to know. Thanks

[@catwrangler1613]

if u run ur indoor blower fan before or just let it run all the time u will reduce ur startup surge on ur hvac unit because u have eliminated the surge from the indoor blower fan motor.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I believe my blower fan uses actually 500 watts wouldnt make sense to run all the time. But good feedback.

[@xTinBenderX]

Excellent easy to digest presentation of the components and connections with reasons for each. Subbed!

[@jamesrobinson9176]

New guy here. Do u have a video recommendation for what it would take to switch my fridge to completely solar. I believe it would save me tons of $$

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yup, I got a video for that :). kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGK3Xp-fisaDh5Y

[@Mike-01234]

One thing might want to note is that many AHJ's are now requiring 9540A UL ESS certification. This means the inverter and the battery has to be certified together if you plan on permitting the install. The 6000 xp does not have this certification the 18KPV does have this with the power pro battery. I read that even off grid rural counties are requiring the certification. I do believe EG4 will eventually get the 6000XP 9540A cert with the power pro since it's likely not a big leap to do it just matter of paying to have it done.

[@CubbyTech]

Still waiting for a better 'main breaker' so we don't have to do manual interlock kits. The grid tap isn't allowed in some counties in the US, even with an external meter breaker.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

This is a good option to avoid the interlock kit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/maGUdIJ_bdd3gNU

[@cleversolarpower]

Great video Ray. I have linked to your video if people want more information about interlocking the breakers.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Great, thanks. I was just watching some of your videos today also. Good stuff!

[@SamSung-jn5fi]

During grid pass through, the grid alone is supplying power? Or will the inverter share the load with grid assistance? I assume the former only, with these inverters.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I haven't tested too much, but It looks like grid only... from looking at the app during the last testing segments in the video. However it looks like, if solar is out at that same time, the solar will be charging the batteries. During sunny conditions, if the batteries are full with a heavy load, perhaps the grid just supplements...?

[@quickquote1568]

There are several high quality brands of low frequency, transformer based inverters on the market that outperform the 6000XP. One brand in particular is called Sigineer Power. They've been around a lot longer than the EG4 brand and they offer much higher surge capacities and a longer life expectancy. They have built-in MPPT, automatic generator start and transfer switch and they're UL1741 & CSA22.2 Certified. Plus they're only $350 more than the 6000XP.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks, I'd like to check out that model. Do you have it? I wonder if the fan is louder on the Transformer base inverters to keep them cool.

[@quickquote1568]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Fans on high frequency inverters typically are noisier because high frequency inverters run hotter due to their much higher switching speeds 2 kiloHertz to 15 kiloHertz (15 thousand times per second).. The fans on low frequency are typically quieter because all of the circuitry in a low frequency inverter operates at only 60 Hertz (60 times per second)

[@x_DEUS_VULT_x]

Yeah, but the PV Voc is too low.

[@kidcompany]

@@x_DEUS_VULT_x It's a low frequency inverter so it has higher AMPs. 250v / 80Amp vs 480v / 25Amp.

[@kidcompany]

Thanks for tip. This looks like a good low frequency inverter alternative to the 6000xp for larger inductive motor applications.

[@ShaneTheGeek]

To run all of that simultaneously you could go with two EG4 12K units and those would handle the surge amps without issue. You might even get away with just one 12k.

[@nikolatesla3708]

you answered all my questions as I'm looking to run the same setup. excellent video, thanks!

[@floridasailor3732]

Does this system prevent back feeding to the grid? You only draw power FROM the grid as needed?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Correct

[@CloudWalker33]

How did you configure the grid integration settings?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

By default it came with all the setting to save $ on my power bill... Eg use solar and battery first and automatically switch to grid when the battery gets low. You can call Signature solar support if you get confused or want to change things.

[@CloudWalker33]

@diySolarPowerFunWithRay That's what I had to do. I'm happy with their support so far. F.Y.I grid charging will not initiate unless your EPS switch is ON

[@whidbeyhiker4364]

You should install a disconnect for grid power to the inverter instead of depending on the main panel outside and the breaker on the inverter.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I agree! I'm going cover this topic a bit in my next video.

[@Fatpumpumlovah2]

at 10:28 when you start talking again you can see arcing in the panel on the right.

[@JohnGEmery]

How solar panels are you using, and what size are they??

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I think those panels were $325 Watts each. 10 of them. But I now have a larger array.. I'll be showing shortly.

[@LarryRichelli]

You are fortunate that you can turn you meter off. Mine has seal on it and I would have to call my electrical company to turn it off which I don't think they will do. I really wanted to do exactly what you are doing.

[@daddio7249]

He is not turning the meter off, that is just a main disconnect switch. Most homes just use a breaker box with a main disconnect included. The advantage of the remote disconnect is you can replace the breaker box without getting the utility to turn off the power.

[@bobcole3852]

Good job on the video. Wondering why you put in the interlock for your grid main. This inverter doesn't backfeed to the grid, it just uses grid if needed, like the AC condenser. You should have a breaker in your main panel to feed inverter and also a "grid" breaker in the inverter so you shouldn't have to use the interlock at all. If you have to add another inverter you would just put in another 2p50 for it. No Polaris, you have them ahead of main breaker, VERY unsafe!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks, they make those grid interlock kits specifically for when you are connecting a generator to run your main panel. If you don't have that main breaker turned off the generator/inverter power will automatically feed back into the grid charging the power lines and putting any linemen in danger if they are working on down power lines. Regarding the breakers and Polaris Connectors: towards the end of the video, before I do the load testing, I mentioned the breakers I have in place for protection. Hope that section makes sense. Thanks for the comment.

[@peterw.3816]

Watch the video again. You missed a couple important points he made on why he set it up this way.

[@MrTrueshoe]

Can you use normal Tesla batteries like from the cars ?

[@frankh7234]

Good morning, the breaker in the inverter is a C50, the 63amp is the maximum the breaker will support, but it will trip at 50, type C devices are designed to trip at 5-10 times In (50-100A for a 10A device).

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

In the video I was running 58 amps thru it and it wasn't tripping. But let me double check the spec sheet....

[@x_DEUS_VULT_x]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay He's right. they are 50A breakers. go to the Chint website and find out.

[@securenc1]

New subscriber here... thanks for the detailed explanations and step-by-step. Great video, sir!

[@timtreat]

Great job. I already have an interlock in my sub panel for my gen so it will be easy for me to use your method. I designed my system for a second inverter should I want to double my output.😁

[@DarrylADavis-rb4ji]

4 and 2 guage. Excellent. Lithium batteries like slow start and systems that ramp up. They hate surge.

[@robwatson7401]

So if I understand what you did here correctly,.. when the power goes out, you still have to run to your breaker box to shut off the mains for the interlock and turn on the breaker you installed that accepts power from the inverter. Did I get that right? Because that doesn't make sense. I get not wanting to back-feed, but I would think the inverter already does that power switching. Seems like that is not THE point, but a main point of having a system like this... but maybe I'm not understanding this whole thing...

[@mondotv4216]

Just looking at your setup your battery cables look way undersized. As a general rule of thumb I think a minimum of 2.0 guage (70mm2) is good for the connection between the inverter and battery. That inverter can peak at a 12kW which is 240amps.

[@meilyn22]

Did you even watch the video?

[@mondotv4216]

@@meilyn22 I made the comment as soon as I saw the battery wires. And at the end when talking about upgrading the connection he is still mentioning 6kW when the inverter specs say peak power for 10 seconds is 12kW. Not everyone watches videos to the end.

[@kidcompany]

Try watching the video! :)

[@brianvrota1]

Are you always running your house over the interlock with this configuration?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yup

[@brianvrota1]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay thank you so the entire house needs the be under 60amp?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@brianvrota1 basically, yes. 60 amps on each leg. Which has been fine for me the last 2 months even with my air conditioner running. If you need more than that you would need to add another unit or get a larger inverter. Just make sure the bus bar on your electrical panel can handle the amps you want to backfeed.

[@stephenbaker3680]

My second comment....Good heat pumps way more efficient than old school resistance nichrome wire element heaters..as high efficiency compressor & fan motor draw less current to move needed btus with the big heat exchangers. They pricey, but like good solar panels..pay off in time. And you can rig up dyi solar panel heat exchange coils to augment hotwater & whille the cooler panels last longer & are more efficient!//S.B.

[@KarasCyborg]

Thanks Ray! Picked up a lot of good techniques/points/safety tips!

[@XxTWMLxX]

Im trying to install a 18k pv. (The bigger brother to the 6000xp) But my utility company wont allow me to grid tie my solar. Since its not through a company. Wonder if i can install similar to this and ommit the main feed split/grid in to inverter just run bat/solar interlocked. Or grid by its self. No possiblilty of backfeed. No solar attached to grid. Its stupid red tape rules. Have to use company x y z to install but they will only install what they sell.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

That's lame. I imagine there's a feature on the 18K PV to disable the back feed functionality. Then it would pretty much function the same way as mine but with more power. I'm thinking about doing that same thing...

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

You should be able to hire an electrician to come and set it up for you

[@evanyoungworks]

Also you need to size wires and breakers for continuous duty for your application, similar to an EV charger application.

[@anthonymurphy2540]

Do you think if I have a gas stove, gas dryer, gas heat and the rest of is electric on a 2000 ft home and doubled everything you have. Could I make it off grid?

[@amythinks]

So one of the things that's really confusing me about this unit is the ground/neutral setting. Apparently, there is one setting for off grid and one setting for on grid. And if you're in a situation where you have both (as you are through the bypass you did so the grid can charge your batteries), the settings are in conflict. I don't have a deep understanding of this topic, but Will Prowse does discuss it on his channel. Is that something you are familiar with? He says you need a separate battery charger from the grid that does not go through the inverter. Thoughts?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

My system is currently disconnected but I will be setting it up again shortly. I just want to verify before I answer this one to confirm on giving you correct information. This is a very good question!

[@amythinks]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay The big problem for me is that my application is mobile. I need one that can seamlessly transfer between grid power (when plugged in at an RV site) and solar or battery power. Now these units do that, you can even prioritize where to take power from, but that is not to say they maintain a single ground/neutral bond in those scenarios. I know you installed the Growatt on you RV but Prowse has also discussed how the Chinese documentation is terrible and how he would never use that system because of it. So, I wouldn't be surprised if there were a similar ground/neutral bond issue there and if it is just not known/understood with respect to that their poor documentation. Presumably, when you are hooked up to services in your RV, the power supply has a ground/neutral bond already at the campsite hookup and what you're running in the RV should behave more like a subpanel. That means having a second ground/neutral bond inside the inverter could potentially charge all the metal in the event of a ground fault. Now, because RVs move around, I find this very concerning. In my house, I think a ground fault isn't terribly likely, but in a moving vehicle with lots of vibration and lots of people pushing the rules on what kinds of wires they use and what kind of wire connectors (many not designed to withstand vibration) this is a big concern for me. Now, I'm faking a higher education on this than I really have and you might discover I am totally off-base. My knowledge is one level above a parrot and not much more than that. I've seen people argue about whether or not internal transfer switches take care of this problem, but nobody seems to have a conclusion and it's mostly just the blind leading the blind. Which is why the most authoritative thing I can point to is Will Prowse simply stating that you need a separate battery charger.

[@amythinks]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I just found the greatest explanation video ever on this subject. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWnTgoGJd82Ij6csi=mx7un2eVBnJNpjUm. Looks like you're probably fine assuming you're main G-N bond is downstream and not upstream of your on/off breaker switch. Now as for the Growatt in the RV....I have no idea.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thank you, I will check out that video. I agree that growatt inverters don't handle the ground neutral bonding well. In my future RV I think I'm going to get a portable power station with a 30 amp DC 12 volt Anderson port to power my 12 volt appliances. Obviously no lead acid batteries for me. :) And regarding the ground neutral Bond I plan on just getting a ground neutral bonding plug that I can use when I am not connected to shore power. When I connect to shore power and I know they have a ground neutral Bond I can just unplug that ground neutral bonding plug

[@stevec5000]

The 6KW inverter seems a bit undersized for a large home with such a big A/C unit or keep the same size but get one with a large overload capacity such as 18KW.

[@remingtonblack3457]

So it appears you have a 100amp main outside which feeds your panel (which is considered a sub-panel). The wire size is probably #3 copper. The new main you installed was either a 150 or 200 amp which doesn’t matter because your outside main is protecting the wires. You tapped off of that with #6? If so, the #6 does not have proper or in fact any over current protection. Am I mistaken? If you would have used #3 that would have been better but still a violation to tap inside a panel-board. Otherwise nice enough job for a layman.

[@oneshot_onekill4618]

Question can i use that inverter without connecting to grid? I have 5000W on my roof wonder if that would be enough. Thanks

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Yup. Grid is optional. 5000 would work. I've been using a 3000 watt array the last month. Can go up to 10,000 watts 👍

[@jebadaiah1228]

Question about your panels man, you mentioned they were 5 yrs used, what kind of output have you been able to get from them?, is it anywhere near the max of 8kw?, during the video I saw you were getting around 2500w.

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

I only had 10 panels out for this video. But a few months ago I did a test where I compared these 5 year old used panels to brand new ones and they produced similar to the new ones.

[@BatMan-co1gy]

I'm assuming this isn't a permitted install , being these 6000's aren't UL certified

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

They have certificates now. You can view the UL certificates available on their website.

[@BatMan-co1gy]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay nice! so are you permitting this? I permitted mine, it was kind of a pain. I've got 2 6500ex w/the 6 eg4 server rack batteries & 40 used kyocera 265w solar panels from San Tan

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

@BatMan-co1gy yes, I am planning on permitting mine. What hoops did end up having to go through? Pretty tough?

[@BatMan-co1gy]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay the biggest thing was the inspectors had never seen one that was owner installed, especially with batteries. Biggest thing was to have all the applicable sections of the code/s printed out for them to reference. also the UL certs on everything handy. the building department in my area made me get my plans PE stamped, I had a friend of a friend so that didn't cost anything.

[@InVinoVeritas.]

Great video!! Hope to get the same inverter. Question, so as the title implies, is your electric bill now @ $0?

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Right now it's pretty much zero but the real test will be when the air conditioning is running in the summer. I will do a 3-month update after some summer months to see how it does, also comparing my power bills. So we'll see :).

[@InVinoVeritas.]

@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Terrific, thank you!!