EASY! How to Make a Two Part Mold & Resin Casting

[@songbob2324]

BEST TWO-PIECE MOLD TUTORIAL ON KZbin EASY AND CLEAR

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks

[@NahiretQuintana]

Finally a good video showing the process, it's accurate and easy to follow. Thanks!

[@dibright1445]

This was the best video on making a two part silicone mold. Thank you for sharing.

[@kkupadhyayupadhyay8871]

very useful to molders who cast single pices or idel casters

[@TheGhostGalleon]

Great video. I've watched a few two-piece mold making tutorials, but this is the only one that makes me confident that I can do it.

[@chibilily]

This is just what I was looking for. I readed how to do the mold but couldn't imagine it. Thank you so much!!!

[@JonathanNeill]

You are welcome, glad it worked for you

[@EratoTiaTuatha]

I have figured out how to make a core piece mold after all and it's kinda working. Mostly I need to invest in more silicone for thicker walls and make good support for the mold so it doesn't warp and it'll be perfect. Anyway, thank you for the reply! Unfortunately, the mold needs to be reusable so the lost wax method would be just too much effort to repeat every time. I am excited to try this once I have a use where it applies better though!

[@jackdeferrari]

Thank you so much the video is my base point for when i start to try this. the video was the most helpful on youtube by far, thank you very much!

[@dariousstallworth7753]

Love this video it was simplified thank you so much

[@JonNeillArtist]

darious stallworth thanks for commenting, I really appreciate hearing from folks like yourself and would like to ask if you wouldn’t mind sharing this video- thanks!

[@WTF-qi2hj]

Excellent tutorial! I've watched several now and this one is the most helpful and concise. Thanks!

[@JonNeillArtist]

I'm so glad - I really appreciate these comments and I hope that what ever you are making turns out well.

[@TrueNorthModels]

Thank you for putting this in simple steps. I want to cast parts for my model cars and this seems to be the one to follow. Cheers

[@carissakirksey6606]

THANK YOU! I have been looking all over to find if vaseline would work as a good release for the silicone!

[@nikogyro5013]

I appreciate all the great information. So deceptively simple looking. Great work.

[@JonNeillArtist]

Thats a great question! You will want to use a platinum based silicone, not tin Based. The reason for this is that the clear resin will become cloudy if you use tin based. Platinum based is superior to tin but it is finicky to certain materials when curing like latex and sulfur clays.

[@ElizabethLOhrn]

Nice video - very thorough, love the time lapse as it shows all steps in process. Often, videos that start and stop miss some particular step that is what I'm missing in my work. Also like that materials and tools are "every day" and inexpensive.

[@justindeclemente6760]

Fascinating and very well done. Thanks for taking the time to educate us...

[@khelilhoussameddine5261]

great work

[@bellapietrocola3558]

great easy mold making tutorial, thanks for sharing

[@ranarahman8739]

Thanks for sharing the process and great work!

[@MrRzful]

Thank you so much Jonathan! This is very very helpful & simply explained. Well done!

[@VeryBeby]

great tutorial! Now I can begin casting the doll I've been making! Gotta get a drill and a dremel though, which I'm not too excited about having to use.

[@chiripitio]

Excellent . very proffesional explain .Thsnks for share !!!

[@JonNeillArtist]

Excellent I am so glad it helped, thanks for posting! I hope your piece turns out well!

[@JonathanNeill]

Yes if you remove all undercuts it will work fine. Or you can have a multiple piece mold as long as there are not any parts that will lock. I hope that makes sense.

[@BluGhostCustoms]

Great, quick to the point video!

[@JonathanNeill]

Thank you!

[@JonathanNeill]

thank you

[@Zullala]

Oh my gosh, I love you! Thank you for this tutorial! This really helps me out!

[@davidhunt6152]

thank you, highly informative and produced very well

[@gneaux1]

WONDERFUL video, very direct and educational, hard to find videos this well done and informative on youtube most of the time, im wondering though, would you recommend the same products and process for smaller/higher detailed pieces? such as small figures/doll heads/miniatures/etc?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Thanks for the compliment! Check out my cup mold video, as I handle super tiny parts differently. I like to slice my molds with a jagged cut by wiggling the xacto knife. I have found that I can get a perfect casting for mini parts this way. I would try a test run to make sure your cuts are giving you great results. If can make a sliced mold over a two part mold, I would favor that option.

[@ghwvgirl1358]

OH MY GOD YOU LIFE SAVER

[@nondemenai7260]

thank you for this video, you made it much less scary

[@sinsix1361]

Very informative. I am looking to make and cast my first mold. I was curious what cost investment I would have to mold and then cast 3 or 4 softball sized molds, using the method you laid out in this video?

[@melkel2010]

I don't know anything but your problem made me think of something called the lost wax method. Perhaps an adaptation of this can be used in conjunction. Prolly too late as this is 4 months old, but perhaps for future uses. Make a wax negative of inside hollow shape. When your casting is done, apply just enough heat to melt the wax out. Maybe if this idea doesn't suit, it gives you a new idea instead?

[@pickledshoe]

wow thanks for that awesome tutorial

[@jenniferford327]

Thank you for your quick response! I will let you know what happens:)

[@urmieseenarine4810]

hi I am very happy to see your work i would like to do a container in two half can you please advice me.thanks urmie

[@artsculpture1024]

Thanks for that, informative.

[@hammysauce]

Great tutorial!

[@EratoTiaTuatha]

Thanks for the vid, I found it very helpful! I'm afraid though that some parts of my current project will need molds made with more parts (parts hollow inside that absolutely MUST be cast in one piece, and the shape of the hollow inside cannot be lost - and therefore cannot be substituted with something like a straw) and I'm looking for tutorials on how to make that work. I'd appreciate any links or tips greatly ;)

[@ryanbarker5217]

if you do this you're apt to get a lot of air bubbles, which are the black spots in the video. a vacuum chamber will rid you of most of that, but tapping on the mould with the resin in it will help as will your pouring method. a good video that gets to the point, but could have mentioned those things for a better product.

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks for adding that Ryan! I made that video for folks who had never tried it before and may not bee ready to invest in a vacuum chamber or pressure pot! I'll address your good suggestions soon!

[@Dollightful]

Very helpful! thanks so much!

[@JonathanNeill]

You are welcome

[@kerry1963qld]

Thankyou so much it was a great tutorial

[@chrisrichman6197]

I have some antlers from a reindeer blow mold. Can I make this kind of mold to make more reindeer antlers? Thanks Jonathan

[@SS-tx5zo]

Hello,Jonathan Thanks for your video! I should make a mold for my art work now, but i've never made a mold in my life. My mold is for 2 spheres connected in one shape. Almost like an hourglass, than it is supposed to have a space to put something inside. i'm wondering that you have a solution for that!

[@crunterstamps]

That was Brill Jonathan,thanks.I'm in England so I guess some of the product names will differ?

[@user-dn9om6cx6q]

Hello, I am impressed of you work! But I have a question, wich is your favoroute wax? Because I wanted to sculp small very detailed figures and for that I need a strong wax..

[@Catapults4U]

Excellent video

[@JonathanNeill]

Thank you

[@mehrymartain6295]

awesome tutorial. I have a lovely resin cherub...but I want to make a mold to make a concrete copy for my garden...I'm just unsure how to approach the wings..it seems like a two part mold is not possible. any ideas on how I could make this mold??

[@JonathanNeill]

+Mehry Martaín I'm certain you'll be making a multiple piece mold. perhaps 3 or 4 piece. Ideally you would be making a case mold with internal silicone mold, but it is possible to do it block mold style if the silicone durometer is not too high ( firm) You'll need to slice the silicone and make sure it doesn't snap off the wings. Make sense? Good Luck!

[@JonathanNeill]

No, White clay is water based clay that air dries. Pottery clay. Thats why you see me using water with brushes in the film. I would only use oil based clay like or better yet, klean clay for doing a clay lay up against a intricate object where the water from the clay would rust or damage it. An example would be against a knife or a computer. You keep the water based clay slightly moist by spritzing it with water occasionally and covering it with plastic wrap overnight. I hope that helps!

[@ncunico]

Baby powder isn't a release. It does the opposite. It reduces surface tension on your mold and helps draw the resin in to every nook and cranny.

[@JonNeillArtist]

Thanks for the clarification!

[@shirin1468]

How would you make a mould for a miniature hand size of a 50c coin? Would love your opinion as it's a hard one.

[@lydiawong]

Hey Jon, thanks for the video, its very helpful. Was wondering if you had any advice on how to create a mould from a piece of meat e.g. chicken breast? Would you need to wrap the meat up in plastic wrap (but would this not create creases)? Would it matter than the meat is soft? Thanks so much, sorry for the strange question.

[@JonNeillArtist]

GREAT Question! Dry off the meat and mold it the same way. Ideally I would use a faster setting catalyst. I make movie props this same way. It can be a horrible experience molding a fish from the market or similar for TV or Film props. That's why you want the silicone to cure in a few hours if possible. Also when you demold the meat, do it outside or a ventilated area. Best of Luck!

[@lydiawong]

Thank you, great stuff!

[@geoff7936]

Voice is suuuuper chilled haha. Great vid though, thanks:)

[@bethsyme1424]

Thank you so much! wonderful info :)

[@NorthViewModelShop]

Great video

[@mikeyoung9810]

It's amazing what you can learn on youtube. :)

[@leesixtwooneone]

i like the way you sound haha. it sounds engerly sleepy. anyway thank you for the great, simple but critical tip

[@rebwar08]

Thank you so much for this video

[@JonathanNeill]

You are welcome! I'd love to know what video you'd like to see next

[@JonathanNeill]

you are welcome!

[@LeonNoelCos]

hi, is the white clay same as the plasticine? it wouldn't dry right?

[@nicodiangelo9810]

If you were doing this on, say, a painted toy gun, would the clay you use here damage the gun or remove the paint in any way? I want to create a mold of a toy gun, but I don't want to ruin the toy in the process.

[@Wrongway346]

Very nice video... I am building a wooden model... will Vaseline do the trick, or should I clear coat the model first.. It does have primer on it now... I was now sure if coating Vaseline on the primer is enough/ mike

[@JonNeillArtist]

+Wrongway346 Hi Mike, Vaseline will work, since you have sealed the model with primer so the silicone won't soak in to the wood, but the thing is, you may want to heat it up so that the vaseline does not leave streaks or brush lines when you cast it. all the best, Jon

[@donyel4976]

This is a great tutorial! If you wanted the piece to be hollow could you treat as you would porcelain?

[@JonNeillArtist]

d gg yes, slush cast with a slow setting resin

[@donyel4976]

@@JonNeillArtist ty

[@Sydneyblue101]

Can this same method be applied to a plaster mold?

[@teebat58]

I have made a custom shaped hard wood archery grip that I use for Olympic archery (FITA) . I want to make a mold so I can make a copy for my backup bow. What material (how hard?) should I use for the casting resin? The grip must not give, so the strength need to be similar to a plastic screw driver handle.

[@JonNeillArtist]

teebat58 MPK ENterprises has a high impact resin in jet black. Ask for Michael Knott, tell him we emailed & you saw the video - 562-755-0039 Its great material, I think its the same material he sold to Weta for the Hobbit.

[@JonathanNeill]

When you are molding against something that could potentially get ruined. Especially with water based material which could remove acrylic or water based material, or even rust metals, use a clay called Klean Clay. You can find this through Hobby Silicone or Reynolds Advanced Materials.

[@nicodiangelo9810]

Okay, awesome! Thank you.

[@jamesporter6125]

Klean Klay has been out of business for years, it's no longer in production. There are alternatives, google it.

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks for mentioning that James Porter - I have a ton of it and wasn't aware. If you need a Klean Klay Alternative: I like Reynolds to shop @ and my 1st choice - www.reynoldsam.com/Tools,-Supplies-an/c1_1334/index.html Then here is this material from everyones friend, Amazon: www.amazon.com/Van-Aken-Protolina-Alternative-Medium/dp/B007R5M1F8

[@2007suprasport]

Wow! 😂 that is totally insane! Thank you for sharing!

[@shafavania2908]

OMG!! thank you SO much!, this really help me making the duplicate of my clay creatures!!

[@slowphiechen]

Hey! I have a (propably quite dumb) question: I've seen many people casting things they only need once. Why don't you just use the original model for that? Wouldn't that be much less work? Or has it something to do with the material? I just don't get it....

[@JonNeillArtist]

Do you mean molding things they only need once? There are many reasons to make a casting. Sometimes the materials are wax and you want a casting in a final material. Other reasons include selling copies.

[@slowphiechen]

Jon Neill Oh, guess I meant molding! It's still difficult for me with all these new words :) Anyways, thanks for you really fast reply!!

[@brianjeffers7648]

What happen to the piece of plastic wrap you had on the bottom of the hand? It was there one minute, then it was gone? What happen to it? Thank you Mary

[@khaynie96]

Will you please give a supply list and possible retailers for supplies? My son wants to start this kind of work, but I have no idea what or where to buy the materials.

[@JonathanNeill]

The supply list is at the end of the video - buy the supplies at www.hobbysilicone.com

[@ryanbarker5217]

i've watched a bajillion of these videos over that last couple of years, and yours is pretty good. i don't think the moulding process would be the challenging part for me and the simple scults i have planned, rather the finish is my concern and hoped you had an idea/suggestion. i own a trophy shop and wanted to make some custom trophy toppers. i think resin would work fine, but i don't know how to get that 'chrome' look trophy toppers have. any thoughts?

[@JonathanNeill]

Yes, you have it chrome plated. There's also vacuum metalizing but that looks like a bad model kit. You can have anything silver plated, gold plated etc. You take your little guys to a place and they can do it for you. The more you bring in, the better the price. make sure you have a couple screws sticking out of your piece so they can hang them up. Look up chrome plating process on google, and you'll get an idea on how to prep your figure. Good luck!

[@ryanbarker5217]

thanks for the reply. :) i did look into the home chroming kits, but the focus tends to be on metal pieces for that, naturally. actually, vacuum metalizing is something i hadn't thought of and i'll check that out ~ for my purposes that may work out fine! since i'm not an expert at this stuff, i'm still searching for methods of finding the right finish ~ at the right price, lol! as you can imagine, folk are only so willing to pay for a trophy topper, custom or not. :)

[@JonathanNeill]

ryan barker LOL I agree with you! One other thing, I have seen some do it yourself chroming kits through some hobby catalogues like www.smallparts.com in the past, perhaps you can check there? Please let me know your final results!

[@ryanbarker5217]

thanks, i will. :) more challenging will be convincing the wife to spend the money. well, i *do* have a birthday coming up....

[@janaycastain]

can i use shea butter as a release instead of vaseline?

[@prettybones8]

Could i use this technique with clear transparent resin? I have a piece that I would like to replicate in va

[@elobi3991]

Great tutorial! Will helps much. I just have one question: what clay did you use to sculpt the hand and what did you seal it with?

[@ClantonCombatives]

Thanks for this. You sound like Bob Ross, also.

[@JoeChalk]

Is the mold reusable for the resin casting? If so, how many times can you reuse it?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Yes it is reusable. The amount of times you can use it depends on a few things. The quality of silicone, how you take care of the mold, the shore hardness in comparison to the amount of undercuts in your mold. So a ballpark answer could be anywhere from 25 -100 or more. In a mold like the hand, there are no undercuts so if I was running multiple parts, I may be able to get a couple hundred out. When the mold gets hot, it degrades. So you have to baby the mold a bit to keep it cooler if you are running mass parts. If I was going to make tons of them, I'd be pulling parts while they were still "green". Not super soft obviously but still slightly flexible and let them "off gas" outdoors, not in my house. That way you save the mold several minutes of high heat. Thus you'll be able to make more Hand castings. Hope that answers your question.

[@JoeChalk]

Jon Neill Awesome! It was more than I expected! Thank you so much!

[@AskLotti]

really helped thanks~

[@SirLoinOfHamalot]

Let's say I want to make a helmet like one from star wars. I'm putting in a special powder that when heated becomes plastic. How would I make a mold that I can pour in the powder and when it solidifies, I can remove it, and it be hollow so I can put it on

[@JonathanNeill]

+Ramon Gonzalez Im not sure about a special powder that becomes plastic. I think I'll need to make a video on how I made my HALO HELMET. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHuVn41nbL2Fotk

[@TexTam]

Loved it!

[@dane311]

doesn't the clay dry out so you cant re use it again? how do you keep the clay this flexible over and over again? if you have a symmetric piece, like a ball, can you poor silicole for the bottom part instead of using the clay, let it dry, put vaseline one it and then poor the second part?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Great question - You can use water based clay over and over again. Just store it in a bag and add some water. You scrape off any impurities like crystal clear or silicone scraps, and use it again. It is cheap to so if you can afford 10-20.00 for a box of clay, you are set. In answer to your second question, you can pour a ball shape, where there is no chance of capturing any bubbles on the bottom. Keep in mind, the air in the silicone rises to the top. Which also means, even if it doesn't touch the sculpt there could be small air pockets set near it. When you come to casting, the resin heats up, expands the air trapped in the silicone and MAY show up as dents in your casting. You can chance it to skip a step or use an evacuator and maybe you'll be ok. Good Luck!

[@dane311]

thank you very much :-)

[@fantassy40]

Hi there!! great video, is your Clay already mixed ready to use or did yo mix yourself. thank you!!

[@JonNeillArtist]

I'm not selling clay. GO to any art store which sells "white" water based clay- it's called white clay and has a very smooth consistency, no granules. It's cheap too and re-useable.

[@nicolehilberg6998]

How come your cast has the black lines around the edges of the hand like your original did?

[@JonathanNeill]

Usually the first casting may pull a little of the ink from the silicone - I usually will paint and prime my sculpts anyway so that doesnt bother me. You can also use a mold release on your mold prior to casting and that will make the ink from not transferring.

[@AnthonyJRapino]

Would this style of molding work for a cured polymer sculpt? Also, would you recommend not painting the polymer clay sculpt until *after* creating the mold, or is painting it before hand okay? Thanks! (great video too).

[@JonathanNeill]

Good question! Yes, wait to paint the sculpt. The mold will pick up any added textures from the paint and it may mess up the paint job. After the mold is completed, You may want to pack up your original sculpt and paint a copy of it instead. That way, you will have it to make another mold at a later date. If you do decide to paint your original sculpt, wash it off with some soapy water or some alcohol if it doesn't decay your piece. You will not want any silicone residue on there when it comes to spraying primer on your piece or painting directly onto the surface. Hope that helps!

[@JonathanNeill]

Anthony Rapino Thanks for the video, that really helps me understand what you are doing. There are two ways you could do it, probably more. Here are both ways. The first way, cut off the two bones and mold them separately in a cup - see my action figure head video. When you remove the bones, make it so that they fit into the base like a puzzle piece so your seams will be hidden. You'll want to add a bit of extension to the cut edge on the bones, that'll be your pour spout. Then do a big block mold out of some softer silicone like 18 durometer. On the top of your bones and probably off the top of all your parts, add a tiny sprue and travel them to the bottom part of your sculpture. Avoid having these sprues exit where the pour spout is. Make sense? The idea here is that the air will escape from the silicone as you pour in your resin. If your vents are also in your pour spout, everything gets blocked up and its hard for the air to escape. Also in the summer time especially, when your resin is warmer, it will cure faster an give you less working time. The longer working time with the resin, the more likely you'll have less bubbles in your mold. Good luck! oh, the second way would be just to add sprues to all the highest points,and travel them back to the ground. You'll need to mark on your sculpture where you'll need to cut from your vent to the part so you will be able to release the vent tube when you pull out your pieces so that you do not lock in your sculpture into the mold. This way is trickier but the reward is that you do not have to remove parts. You will have to make sure you have enough vents. My advice is to do the 1st process.

[@AnthonyJRapino]

Jonathan Neill Wow, thank you so much for the detailed description. I had a feeling I'd be better off cutting the bones off the sculpture, but whatever results in the best mold and cast is the way I'll do it. Thanks again!

[@JonathanNeill]

Anthony Rapino Sure thing! If it were me, I'd make all the little parts fit like puzzle pieces and cast those separately. Regarding sculpting with sculpey clay you probably know too that you can bake the sculpey and sand it to better get the forms you want. You can also sculpt on top of the baked surfaces. Sometimes there may be good reasons to bake a portion of the sculpt before adding something else. In order to keep the joints from fusing, you can brush on vaseline to the parts that contact for easy removal.

[@AnthonyJRapino]

Jonathan Neill Right on, thanks again. Well, I did read about being able to do those things with sculpey, but I've yet to try. Hopefully I'll learn all the tricks soon. Cheers!

[@Sustaita.handmade]

I'm looking to cast some polymer clay sculpted teeth and was wondering if a one piece mold or a two piece mold would be better. Now that I think about maybe I could do a one piece mold but when I sculpt the teeth make the bottom edge longer so I could sand it into the shape I want. Anyways suggestions would help and if my idea seems like it could work please tell me so :) thank you for your time

[@JonathanNeill]

Is this going to be like a tooth appliance? If so, I would do a one piece mold. With Polymer clay, you can do you initial sculpt, sand it to a polish and mold it. Or you can also sculpt on top and bake it in layers, Since you are molding the teeth, attach your sprues to the root side and have them connect to a base which will be your pour spout. On the tips of the teeth, make your vents run past the pour spout to the very bottom where you are a choring everything. The air will need to escape and being fused to the base/pour-spout will not work properly. When you finally have your cup or one piece box mold poured up and the original sculpt removed, you'll slice each vent from the external side of the mold not to cut into your teeth sculpture. Provided you used a softer shore silicone and or the wall are thin enough around the pour spout, you should be able to get your fingers in there and pull the teeth casting out. Make sense? Let me know.

[@Sustaita.handmade]

ah yes this was very helpful :) I'm still a bit confused on some parts. I am not putting sprues on the teeth since they are for a mask and the gums will be made of silicon and can be glued here's a photo of the project i am working on 2.bp.blogspot.com/-WgEVpJn8AM0/UmKnrNwaXLI/AAAAAAAALzM/hnCVQKKce9g/s0/018.png also about the vents thing, you mean it should have a hole or something in order to let the air escape? thank you this was very helpful :)

[@JonathanNeill]

muffinmonsterssgoahh Hey that'll be cool. I assume you are making the gums as a facial appliance so you will be able to open your mouth? If so, contact Reynolds advanced materials so you can get set up with that process. if you are just having the mouth closed, why not switch to dental acrylics and monomer. I made some awesome fake teeth for movies using that stuff and its easy to find. I bet reynolds also carries it. Or try your local dental supply store or FX house. Since you are making a custom mask for yourself, are you working on top of a casting of your face? If not, You should do your sculpt on a casting of your face. the stone casting of your face becomes the backside of your mold so when you make parts, they will fit you.

[@Sustaita.handmade]

the gums will be attached to a piece of fabric that has a zipper and will be sewn to the inside of the a pleather/vynle mask i have made i wish i had photos on my computer to show what i have so far. i will look into the suggestions i am very thankful for your help :) i will probably check out reynolds advanced materials and also check out Nigel's beauty emporium to see what they carry. the mask can probably be more closely related to a luchador mask i guess? xD thank you for the advice

[@etremelyinnpropiart6756]

hi, Hobby Silicone! can you do this with model horses?

[@JonathanNeill]

You can actually make a mold without removing the horse legs. But yes, you can use this similar technique to make model horses but as a three piece mold.

[@etremelyinnpropiart6756]

can you do a toutorial? i want to learn to cast my own resin models. :)

[@umeinui]

I want to make a goat hoof to attach to a boot.... should I follow this process?

[@JonNeillArtist]

+KyoTheFoxDemon Well that depends, If you are casting the sculpt of the goat hoof an then attaching it separately. I have no Idea what your design is for this. I would think you'd have a metal structure suspending your shoe and balancing on the goat hoof which would need the metal structure cast inside of it. Once cured, then you could attach it to the boot. That's my two cents. There's a handful of ways to do this rig.

[@umeinui]

Jon Neill What would be the easiest way for a beginner to do it? The only reason why I thought of using resin because I saw a pair already made by a costume designer who said she had used some sort of hard resin to attach to a pair of heels. Other than that I have no clue how she made her hoof so by all means tell me how you think it should be done because IDK

[@JonNeillArtist]

+KyoTheFoxDemon Resin would be strong enough to hold you up but I would be more concerned about building a frame which would hold you up then cast the aluminum structure into the resin. You may be able to find a tutorial on the stan winston school website. To make hoover legs is an involved process, one that I just can't write out without making an entire tutorial. Best of luck though, I know you can find one :)

[@robertorodriguez3885]

question where DO I GET THE SCALE FROM I WRITE BIG HARD TO SEE LITTLE WORDS

[@JonNeillArtist]

Joe, go to your local office supply store ( Staples/ Office Dpot/Office Max) and purchase a digital gram scale that took do single digit grams. You don't want a scale that counts by 2. Expect to pay around 35-55.00.

[@emiawesome3330]

Question, was the original sculpture made of clay as well? Do you bake it before submerging it within the clay?

[@JonNeillArtist]

The original sculpt is a wax like material. One can mold anything, even fresh food, fish, wet clay etc. ever see those rubber lizards in the store that look unusually realistic? Chances are, they too were molded in silicone. You can also sculpt something in a soft wet clay and mold it, even do a clay lay up against it. Just spray it with crystal clear and thats enough of a barrier coat when making your mold. Good Luck!

[@dannyafireinside]

Jon Neill Hello, may I ask what wax like material you used? I'm trying to make a sculpt to use to make a mold.

[@JonathanNeill]

***** That material was castillina, but I am now a fan of Monster Clay. You may really like it.

[@dannyafireinside]

Thank you! I will try monster clay, for I have been hearing a lot about them, again thank you!

[@baljazz]

How would you do this on a 24in super sculpey clay sculpture that is not baked. I don't want to cook it cus I want to reuse the armature. Please help

[@JonathanNeill]

A box mold would use way to much silicone. Do a brush up silicone mold with a Jacket. Use ultracal to make your jacket mold. I need to make a video on this process.

[@baljazz]

Yea lol I'm so confused I just started sculpting. Figured 24in would be good to start with cus it's easier to get detail in but..... lol I don't know how to cook it and I would like to reuse the armature. My armature is a 24in truform got it for free but I do not want to buy one. If you made a video I'm pretty sure a lot of people would appreciate it just as much as your other ones. Thank you for the fast reply. Subscribed!!:)

[@riotdrive9927]

Will this work for the clear Polyester rein?

[@JonathanNeill]

Riotdrive BoudouZenshin Use platinum based silicone for casting clear parts.

[@jackdeferrari]

How strong is the resin?

[@asskick1991]

Where could I purchase the silicone you use? I really want to cast a bunch of resin figures for my gramma's "Santa's village"

[@JonathanNeill]

Awesome! Buy the silicone through www.hobbysilicone.com, the materials are listed at the end of the video. Best of luck, Jon

[@sorin990]

how do you know what is the quantity you need to create when pooring liquid resin or latex ??

[@JonathanNeill]

fill your silicone mold with water then pour that water into a measuring container. The resulting measurement will answer your question. Good luck!

[@sorin990]

Jonathan Neill Damn that was easy but if I didnt think about it ....Thank you very much ! and inverted ? when you make the silicone mold after a clay model ?

[@JonathanNeill]

I think it was a 10lb kit of silicone which is about a gallon ( not 100% on that) is what it took to cast my hand sculpt. The bigger the flange and void around your sculpt, the more space it needs to fill. I try to make the void small, but not less than 1/4 of an inch. You can also take older tin based silicone rubber and cut it into chunks and fill the space away from your sculpt with those slices. however dont have it touch the sculpt as Ive gottne blemishes on the final part by too many short cuts.

[@sorin990]

Jonathan Neill thank you

[@izzysan4013]

could i use this to make cast of a lightsaber hilt?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Easily!

[@jacobzking]

How much did you have to pay to get Andy Dick to do the voiceover? :) But seriously, great tutorial, thanks!!!

[@winwinlovewin]

thank you

[@Dark4estImagery]

Is it possible that I can send you my model and have you cast it for me? If so, what would be your cost? I have tried this unsuccessfully many times and cannot get it right.

[@JonNeillArtist]

Hey Charles, Sure I can do this. Can you give me the width height length of the model, how many parts to mold, take a few photos and email it me? I'll give you a price for molding it, and I'll also give you suggestions in case you'd like to try it yourself. best, Jon

[@henriseefeld8286]

Can this silicone,old be used on a sculpted clay newborn baby . My name is Henri seefeld

[@JonathanNeill]

yes

[@JonathanNeill]

If you'd like to email me a picture of what you are talking about, I will be able to help further. There are a few different ways to get a hollow casting. the easiest is to pour a bit of resin inside and roll it around until it cures. You will need a slower setting resin - one with a longer working time. You'll also need to be in an area thats not hot which as you know will speed up the curing time. I used this technique creating 100 --- T-800 endoskulls for Stan Winston Studios.

[@MrReljus]

how much time does resin need to harden?

[@JonathanNeill]

The resin shown in my video cures in about 10 minutes. Go to Www.hobbysilicone.com to purchase it.

[@MrReljus]

+Jonathan Neill thanks :)

[@theafancslake9653]

What if the thing you are casting is made out of clay :/

[@JonathanNeill]

spray with crystal clear and follow the video instructions - get all materials in the description list and you are off to a great start! good luck!

[@jaystationconsolegaming1578]

hi Jonathan. great video. Ive watched several of these now and think I'm getting the hang of it but theres so many silicones and resins, I'm not sure what to get as funds are tightish so don't want to go mad. I'm just getting into sculpting and have nearly finished my first piece of yoda. if your on instagram I'm @jayclay74 if you want to have a look. I'm going to have to do a 2 piece due to his ears. would love any advice or tips to put me in the right direction buddy (if you have time) thanks Jonathan