EASY! How to MOLD & CAST an ACTION FIGURE head

[@Nexsusthepro]

Absolutely love this! Precise no tedious assumptions that leave you guessing- just clear and amazingly quick introduction on the process that goes into creating a mold and reproducing it!

[@Ereckdj]

I made my first character toy and now thanks for your video am going to carefully write down the products. I really need to make a few copies of my original toy. This is going to be my first time.. Thank you so much. Your video is very helpful

[@pinkyg6508]

You are an Excellent Teacher. Your instructions were crystal clear. Very thorough & most informational. My son is interested in making molds & figurines & I am happy to have found this video. We will be watching this together. Thank you for sharing your expertise with the world :) Your awesome

[@rgstargalaxy955]

Most clear, concise and helpful casting vid I’ve ever seen! Thank you.

[@JonathanNeill]

You're very welcome!

[@Guywithcrazyideas]

You have full permission to do my head.

[@bikerscout2012]

Very nice video! I'm thinking about taking up action figure making as a hobby. I'm almost 40 and have always dreamed of making figures of some comic book characters I created as a youth.

[@JonNeillArtist]

Do it and post your results here!

[@valdapuing251]

Did you ever do it? I'm 42 and "ready and willing" to start!!!

[@JacknVictor]

You could use way less silicone by either using a smaller cup, or by cutting the top third of that cup off so that you don't end up with 2 or 3 inches of unnecessary silicone at the bottom of your mould.

[@nigelcarren]

Great sculpt, great video. I have to be honest... I took a deep breath just before the little guy went under the first time! Jeez, I must drink less coffee.

[@crunterstamps]

I bought some of this stuff 12 years ago,still unused! It was really expensive! I was too scared to use it and risk messing it up.So thanks for your brilliant de-mistifying tutorial!!

[@JonathanNeill]

crunterstamps I'm glad you liked the tutorial! You'll need to check your material as it doesn't have a long shelf life, it probably has gone bad. Do a test batch - mix up both containers seperately and scrape the sides and bottom. If the catalyst is chunky its most likely trash. Once you get both A & B mixed, then do your 1:10 ratio in a small cup and see if it sets up or not. Best of luck!

[@alexandervanwyk]

Cool.

[@MrWhoDatIsMe]

Try to find some regular mold release powder, baby powder has oils and perfumes that can cause problems for the mold or the piece being molded. Just a little info from and experianced mold maker.

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks Matt, I switched from Mold release to baby powder and have been using it for over a decade without problems. What types of problems actually occur with the mold or the castings that I would recognize from the perfume or oil?

[@yurushii]

This is excellent! I would like to request for you to make some orange translucent nunchaku for a retro TMNT Michelangelo. Make two pair and I'll be happy to buy them.

[@dnomarsenoj7063]

you didn't mention to put the mold back in the cup when pouring. but I love this video. it will help me when I do my next mold. being self taught I love your techniques. lots of great techniques you used. the air pour was just great. thanks for this video.

[@JonathanNeill]

+Raymond Jones Thanks Raymond, You can also use a rubber band if you don't want to use another cup when you pour in the resin!

[@georgehamilton8330]

Great vid, very good cast.

[@dariusdrake9154]

THanks for the video, Jonathan. I'm completely new to this. It seems there were some steps that you may have left out (because the video isn't for complete newbies). My questions are: What did you do to allow air to flow out of the mold when you poured the resin in? Also, when you used the white resin, there were extra parts on the head that formed from the pouring tunnel...parts you would have to cut away (Go to minute 4:57). How do you deal with that? Lastly, what were those tools you used to suspend the head while you poured the silicone around it? Thanks.

[@ryangunwitch-black]

Lol I'm like "Where the hell did the wax come from? What kind of wax do you use? Does it come in little snakes like that? Is it hard or did you have to cool it?'

[@CobyNeill]

Good job on this demo Jon!

[@johnnypinball6071]

Super brilliant...

[@JonathanNeill]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@creatornat]

The child's voice was pretty hilarious and winsome. :) But I wish I had someone to show me the step by step in person and watch for my mistakes as well...

[@JonathanNeill]

Well it's time to do a live event. :) What exactly do you need to learn that I didn't address in my video?

[@richiethefly124]

great work my friend, it looks awesome!

[@garystorey]

Cool video, my son lost one of his ninja turtles swords from an action figure but I still have one left. Thinking of casting spares for all the other weapons too as he loses them often. This seems like the perfect process, just need to weigh up the expense to see if it works out more economical than buying the action figures again just for the weapons...

[@szarusia16]

Really nice and helpful tuto!

[@teddy007kong]

great video breakdown just what I was looking for

[@ewwwt]

2:15 the T1000 NNNAAAAAAHHHHHHh GGGOOOORRRRGGGGLLLLLEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!

[@bladerunnersn]

I'd like to try this to create vintage style GiJow heads

[@amelianeill7820]

This will be easy using this process, just avoid casting the ones with the hair or you'' have to grind off the "excess facial hair resin" in the casting.

[@bladerunnersn]

I only collect painted head anyway

[@trueCinemaniac]

I LOVE this video tutorial, it's just about all the info I need to get started on my new passion project of making toy figures with detailed heads. Only part I'm confused about are the blue wax vents, how do I make them and how do you strategically place where vents should go? Help Jonathan!

[@JonathanNeill]

Glad it was helpful! I'm planning to make a video about Vents soon. I hope you were able to gain some insight into it already!

[@gabeminnick7438]

Could you make a video on how you used the blue wire wax?

[@AnneAndersonFoxiepaws]

Very cool! I think I need to try this!

[@JonathanNeill]

Did you try it?

[@alancastaneda8322]

Excellent vid! Many thanks!

[@MrRodz901]

you are really talented. aswesome

[@gneaux1]

NICE, thanks for the quick response, video was just what i was looking for

[@eddyothy]

this is awesome. Great video.

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks!

[@kidneymcsecrets8402]

Great instructional video! It's the only one of many I've seen, that makes me feel confident to "clone" a treasured part that cannot be replaced. If this product only needs baby powder as a mould release...then this is exactly the type of non invasive process I would trust with that particular part I'm eager to try it, and it seems like it won't harm the part in trying. Otherwise I'll have rupture my funds for a 3-D printing.

[@kidneymcsecrets8402]

@JN Bye the bye; could you give us a correct spelling on the pigment product you used in this video? All tens? Altense? Or...

[@JonNeillArtist]

The pigment is called "All Tints" but a universal colorant is what you need to use to color either silicone or eurethane. Here is a link to Reynolds colorants - www.reynoldsam.com/search/?q=all+tints You can also buy colorants at www.hobbysilicone.com By the way, if you are molding a 3D print, make sure you seal the print BEFORE you mold it as the silicone sometimes does not cure properly against the material or may fuse against it.

[@kidneymcsecrets8402]

Thanks for that and any other info and tips! I'm going compile a shopping list before visiting the link(s) About one dozen (two dozen would be great!) of the head I want to cast would enable me to complete all the headless projects on my workbench, and any future muses as well. So I'm still learning while deciding what would be the best way. Thanks for helping with the decision making and for posting the vid. Bye the bye; the "loop" and the baby talk are both personable and welcoming.

[@kidneymcsecrets8402]

@JM Which product (s) would you recommend for mould/casting a part (pistol in holster 1/25 scale) with the approximate dimensions: A bit over a 1/2cm in height x 4mm in width x 2mm in thickness?

[@ispajic3]

Jon Neill Hi Jon, sorry to join an old discussion, but what do you mean by "if you are molding a 3D print, make sure you seal the print BEFORE you mold it". How do we seal it?

[@kidneymcsecrets8402]

Hello Jonathan,I am finally ready.I have the MPK starter kit, All tint, and a variety pack of wax sprue and wax pour spouts. But I don't have a scale. Can't I use the volume of the cup I use for the cup mould as a guide as to the amount of silicone/catalyst I need?For instance; for a full sized 70mm (1:25 scale policeman) I'm using a 9oz. Cup, and for small applications, such as 1:25 scale head with hat, or a pair of boots, or a patrol bag etc.etc. I'm using 2oz. cups, the type you get your burrito condiments in at the taqueria. I will make 9 ounces of silicone/catalyst, in a another 9oz. cup to fill the 9oz cup mould with the master, and if I have a little extra I will have a "mini cup" or two, ready for any extra material created by displacement. Won't this "freestyle" work, or am I forgetting something? Thanks

[@RelinquishedMemories]

Hey there I had a number of questions about molding and things you were available sometime. Thank you.

[@davidsauce3675]

If I want to do a mold for a moveable figure will the molding material mess it up?

[@JonathanNeill]

If you are molding something with moveable parts, silicone has a way of getting into those areas and making sure they are molded and sealed. That being said, it makes for a fun afternoon cleaning those parts so the piece can move again, if ever. So what do you do, right? The solution is by using this BEFORE you mold --www.reynoldsam.com/Tools,-Supplies-an/c1_1334/index.html - It's a clay that you'll use as a barrier on your piece, around each moveable area, clay it up with dental tools. Once you do that, it's ok to mold it. You'll still maybe need a dental pick to pull out a few areas of silicone, but it shouldn't be serious unless you miss something obvious and it fills with silicone. Good luck and don't be scared, you can do this!

[@Shubeeduwah]

very useful video, thank you

[@orphansrequiem4999]

Hello, I have a question about making Molds, I have a miniature my sculptor is near finished, however, how the swords cross over lap one another, creating an empty space surrounded by the sculpt itself. How would I go about making the mold? I can provide Photos in an email if you would prefer. Thank you.

[@JonathanNeill]

Send a couple images - As a rule I avoid cross over parts if I can help it. Are you able to remove the hand at the wrist and channel out the sleeve slightly and extend the wrist to fit into the part? Or you could also add a bracelet around the wrist and do the same sort of principle to hide the seam. Then mold the hand and sword separately. I'm not saying it is impossible to do it the way it is now, but It'd be a lot easier if you dismantle it a bit. Use a jewelers coping saw to cut through your parts and have plenty of blades if you are breaking them. This will insure a smooth thin cut minimizing loss of material and damaging the form of the sculpt!

[@nocaptainmatt3771]

Jonathan, two questions. 1: if I use a 1/6 scale head, paint and pigments still on, will casting it damage the original heads paint? 2: when you are doing the mold, how did you do the venting or when in the steps did you do it? Before the mold was dry or drilled into afterward?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Hi, The silicone shouldn't fuse to the pigments however you can always get a spray release agent ( ReynoldsAM.com) and dust the head or do a small test on the back of the neck. I created the vents by attaching wax rods to the sculpt and the base, then filling the mold up with silicone. You can also use thin armature wire and clip it the exact size, secure to the base and pour the silicone. After its cured you can easily pull out the metal armature wire. I know I really must make a few videos on vents. I have a to of people ask me similar questions regarding the topic. Please let me know how it goes. Best, Jon

[@clintlewallen4857]

i want to make a mold like that but with smaller parts and make them clear for like lighting on a modle

[@JonathanNeill]

Use platinum silicone and something like "325" sold at Reynolds Advanced Materials. There are plenty of clears out there. I have heard that tin based silicone will fog the clear resin as it cures.

[@hengestgoldfist2340]

Very good video a great help, how does your mold making method compare with the other method of making two molds, a top and a lower piece. -Requiring a powder or grease to keep them separate, but the two would have to line up perfectly!! Yours is quicker I guess but is it less suitable for a complex detailed piece where you may not guarantee the resin has run into all the detail?

[@JonathanNeill]

Hi Hengest, I use both ways depending on what is required. Watch my two piece mold to determine which way you want to make your mold. For heads, my goal is to avoid excessive seams. Silicone is flexible so use that to your advantage. Here is a link to my easy two piece mold. I do not know what you are dealing with and perhaps I will make some more advanced molds for view. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqCsqGWYicuip5o

[@jplays352]

Cool

[@lucaciccioni]

Very useful video, thanks! Just a question: how do you melt/remove the wax sticks?

[@anokesunboxing-figurenundm2113]

Great!!

[@TheRealGreeble]

Awsome tutorial!

[@jplays352]

I love it

[@dariusdrake9154]

And what do you think of using EasyMold Silicone Putty? My project isn't as complex as the one in the video (I'm making toy figures to sell).

[@MichellesHandmadeCreations]

Great tutorial. TFS!

[@samurairebel8]

awesome video thank you very much for the information I really appreciate it

[@MrJeab43]

Thankyou for your video.

[@VeganRashad]

Thanks

[@mderoller]

great video. thanks!

[@Konani_the_unicorn_queen]

thanks youtube, i, somehow, really had a interest in watching this based on my preferences, or it was just a random "here is something old, watch it human!" hmm...

[@Rockman707]

This was a really nice tutorial. Very informative and looks really easy to make. Can you please explain or show to us how the blue wax was made? Is the blue wax really stuck into the head sculpture or can it still be removed? And what's the small cup below the blue wax in the middle called?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Thanks for your question - Many people are asking about the spurs, the blue wax. I actually purchased that blue wax through riogrande.com I think its called round wire wax. It comes in a couple different hardnesses, I prefer blue, but theres an even softer red as well. The wax is tacked onto the head but can be cleaned off of it pretty well. The small cup was actually part of a syringe cover, my original idea was to have the space to use to add a syringe for extra pressure to fill the head, like a cheap version of injection molding. I found however, it was too much info for that video. This year I plan to do some more videos which I will cover the who sprue thing in more detail.

[@jurassicwars]

Jon Neill c

[@kaylam217]

is there a video on how to make or apply those vent sticks? can't seem to locate them online at all. Do you happen to have a video of how to cast an object with a hollow center. I have a toy that i'd like to cast and have it be hollow inside but don't know where to begin?

[@JonathanNeill]

+Kay Lam Hi Kay, Many people are asking for a video about the sprues. SO I will make one. Thanks so much for asking!

[@skyrimfan30]

can you use liquid latex?

[@lambdaweaponscache5394]

Can the casting resin be painted with acrylic? Or is there possibly another material that I could use that can be painted?

[@JonathanNeill]

yes it can be painted with acrylic. I like to use an acrylic spray primer as well.

[@victorbadila7607]

Oh and awesome video btw

[@MrWhoDatIsMe]

The mold will deteriorate faster and get weakened. You could also have pitting and no fills. I use my molds alot for wax to use in making jewelry so maybe the resins you use won't be affected by the oils. Just thought I'd pass it on.

[@DoitsukiDesu]

I have a question regarding making a silicon mould of a painted resin sculpture. Would the silicon remove the paint or have some sort of chemical reaction to the sculpture (it's expensive and I want to make copies of it without destroying the original) ?

[@JonathanNeill]

When these types of situations occur I ask myself three questions - Firstly is doing a test to see if the silicone will remove the paint or stain it worth the risk of damaging the spot. If it works, is the value of mass producing the sculpture worth the risk and thirdly, and I am not saying you would be doing this, from a legal standpoint, could you get into trouble making copies. If it is worth making the silicone mold, use a clear or translucent tin based silicone, as platinum can be more finicky. I like the sorta clear series sold through Reynolds advanced materials. I have molded fossils and remains while working at a museum, so you'll need to be careful even when using mold releases. Ideally you can get a release at Reynolds that will work for your needs. Good luck!

[@evanpennock1301]

awesome video...would it be possible do pour molten wax in instead of resin? I would then want to make a plaster mold and melt the wax out for casting aluminum. thanks!

[@JonathanNeill]

Yes, that would work, have you tried it?

[@hariboshitez3811]

Very cool info. Can you tell me if this would work with the same type of head if the head was hollow inside and underneath the head say like a pez dispenser head? Or does that require a negative 2 piece mold? Thanks!

[@JonNeillArtist]

You can make it work if you fill the head up with something like clay and then make your mold. If you are wanting to make it just like the pez head (Hollow) you are better off grinding it out after you have cast it or using a jewelers saw to separate the head so you can capture both the inside and outside shape accurately, then putting it back together once you have cast it. Or if you are lucky, the inside shape has no undercuts. If that is the case, you will be able to pull the silicone mold out of the inside. Hopefully though, all you need to do is fill the inner section with clay and make your mold using the video above as a template. Best of luck!

[@fahadahmed5499]

Thank you for the wonderful video. I was wondering if it's "Baby Powder" or "Baking Powder" you were using to act as a seperation film. It's not in the list of materials and I cant get that part properly over the audio. Thanks again for the great tutorial ! Cheers !!!

[@JonNeillArtist]

Fahad Ahmed it’s baby powder, also called talc or talcum powder. Thanks for your kind words!

[@fahadahmed5499]

Jon Neill Thanks Jon.

[@comicguy9611]

Hello again Jonathan, you have been help a lot, thanks. I start the process of brush mold but I need to ad poly fiber. I cannot finder around where I live, can use something else? I was thinking about that grass model powder to thicken the silicone. Have you tried or use something else? Thanks again

[@comicguy9611]

Hmm Now, what should use to make the mold, can I use clay? I'm thinking to create a kind of structure around the figure with space between to pour the liquid rubber, so in the end the mold will be the rubber itself. Again, do you think it may work or there's a better method? Thanks again for your help.

[@JonathanNeill]

Are you saying you'd like to use clay to make a custom shape instead of using a cup when you are to pour in your silicone to make the mold? If so, yes you could do that if you think its a good idea.

[@aaass200]

wow... Good!

[@bencutts9268]

This is the best casting tutorial I’ve seen yet! I’m a little confused why the vents don’t fill up with the resin though??

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks Ben, in a perfect world, the vents should fill up. It also depends if the vents are level with the pour spout and if the resin is lower than the top of mold. I have had many people ask about vents and I'm planning to make a tutorial, or a few tutorials about vents.

[@bencutts9268]

Thank you, I see!! I was just confused because In the tutorial it appears as if the vents cover the ears and considering the cast looked perfect I was surprised that the vents didn’t fill with resin causing the ears to lose a lot of their detail, I’ll be looking forward to seeing your future video on the vents!!

[@TooManyCables]

Jonathan, What do you use to de-nib any small areas of the final piece that you do not want on your final mold? Does Wet-n-Dry work on this material and keep a smooth piece? Thank you SO much for the detailed a clear video! Rob

[@JonathanNeill]

Hi Robert, Thank you and great question! I use the edge of an xacto knife and in some cases I would use wet and dry, used wet so as to not breathe in the dust from it.

[@TooManyCables]

Thanks!

[@lavenderwyvern]

I was wondering what material the original head was sculpted with? I am wanting to sculpt a mask in resin, but I am having trouble finding information on what sort of clay I could sculpt it out of, and then make a silicone mold of it. Would oil based clay work?

[@JonathanNeill]

Lily Esthiem You can use oil based clay however you may enjoy working in WED clay, its waterbased and you can do some great art in a larger, mask size scale. You may want to also watch my video on making a two piece mold. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqCsqGWYicuip5o

[@farhanpulukadang4815]

If i use pressure pot, are the vent canals still necessary?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Farhan Pulukadang vents give the air a place to escape. You might be able to get a clean cast but it is not preferable

[@victorbadila7607]

I have a question. What starter kit should i buy from hobby silicone?

[@hiwadkhan7997]

thats very good plz someone tell me that where I buy this mold or resin

[@JonNeillArtist]

www.hobbysilicone.com

[@AngelStyl26]

Do you have or know of a tutorial for small hands with open fingers?

[@JonNeillArtist]

+Nikki Reed I should do a tutorial but the easiest way would be to use wax sprues and then model them slightly into a hand. I know that doesn't really help like a tutorial, you probably have already found something by now too.

[@privateking1466]

🤓🤓🤓

[@toup82]

This is fucking awesome

[@raefblack7906]

What about a tube with details in and out . Would I use the same technique

[@JonathanNeill]

Raef Black You'll need to make a 3 piece mold for that probably and you'll want to make sure that you can get the core mold out of your part so you'll have to design it to come out in some fashion.

[@maydeways509]

Hi you don't need any spary? thanks!

[@JonathanNeill]

+Mayde ways What is Spary? I have never heard of it.

[@horror_chris]

What kind of clay do you have to make the main head out of?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Hi Chris, Small sculpts i create with a hard sculpting wax

[@ispajic3]

I'm not sure I understand the venting piece. How do you avoid the venting piece from casting along with the rest of your figure? I see when you take the head out that there's nothing on the ears, but there should be some resin extruding basd on the vent tubes...

[@JonNeillArtist]

The venting part is supposed to cast. The vent is designed to let air escape when the resin flows inward. The resin, pushes the air out of the mold. If the pour spout is higher than the vents, the vents will leak over your mold until the surface between the pour spout and vent are level. When cured, the vents will be on the part but the connection between the part and the vent should be minuscule, not super thick, it is air escaping, not a thick material. Hope that helps.

[@ispajic3]

Jon Neill I think I get it. I guess I'll have to see first hand :)

[@ShiNy12511]

great tutorial video! by the way, does baby powder acts as separator between resin and silicone mold?

[@JonathanNeill]

Yes, I have used baby powder for many years instead of regular mold release. However you can purchase specific mold release as well.

[@bloodkills666]

i got some clear resin. what would be the best way to add color to it?

[@JonathanNeill]

Ok theres a couple things about clear resin. You'll want to use platinum grade silicone when doing any casting with clear resin or your piece may become cloudy. Because there is a wide variety of great pigments available, Here is a link to some great pigments to purchase from Reynolds advanced materials - www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1119/index.html

[@sionmarcsimpson7487]

Great video thanks for sharing. I have a question you didnt cover. How do you know the quanities of mixtures, Silicone and resin for the project? Many thanks ;)

[@JonNeillArtist]

Good question. I'm glad you brought this up and I should do a video of this because theres a handful of ways to solve the problem. Some small cups can have measuring info printed on the side. If thats the case and the head fits inside the cup, then you can guess you'll need enough silicone to go to the top of the head. Usually the volume of the head sculpt will be enough to make the silicone go well above it. When pouring the resin, I will either weigh the sculpt or "eyeball" the volume of the sculpt plus the sprue. Then after the first casting, I will weigh the casting with the sprue and make a note on my mold so that whenever I need to make a casting I know how much resin it'll take. Make sense?

[@sionmarcsimpson7487]

Yes it does I'll have a bash at it and see how it goes. Many thanks from rainny old England ;)

[@ericagrey7828]

what method do toy companies use to make head sculpts for mass production? is there a special machine for that?

[@JonathanNeill]

It depends on the sculpture, it could be injection molding, poly stone, cold cast resin, vinyl. Most companies outsource the pieces to China factories - think Alibaba.com With the exception of the highest quality action figure companies, the final product never really comes close to looking as good as the original prototype. At least that is my experience.

[@ericagrey7828]

+Jonathan Neill how do u think hot toys does it? By hand or machine?

[@TheMsSuccubus]

hi what if I want to make a mold so I can make a silicone object?

[@comicguy9611]

Hi, I have a question. How can I make a mold from a aprox 12-16" complex pose figure without cut it in parts? I thought about two parts but it will not match later, thanks. Lot

[@JonathanNeill]

Good question. Its possible but complicated and hard to say if you could get multiples. I would do a brush up mold and butterfly cut the thing so I could remove the piece from the mold. If you cut it correctly, there should not be much of a seam. You'll have to experiment and I cannot guarantee the results.

[@jljripper69]

what type of wax items did you use for the vents? Are those birthday candles or what are they and where can you get them?

[@JonathanNeill]

I never thought of using birthday candles, I think the thinnest birthday candles would still be a bit fat for this type of process. I actually use sprue wax. Many Jewery places sell it. One place which has everything and definitely is not Walmart when it comes to pricing is Rio- Grande. Here is a link to the wax sprues... www.riogrande.com/Search/wax-sprue

[@jljripper69]

What gage do you use on the Sprue Wax? Are they easy to bend?

[@JonathanNeill]

jljripper69 I bought a variety pack and choose one that isn't too bulky for the sculpture. i would guess 18 - 20 gauge? for something tiny like an action figure head. It also depends upon the volume of area that you are filling, for example, I cocktail straw sized sprue on an action figure head would be way overkill, but perfect on a larger mold, like the size of my hand in my video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqCsqGWYicuip5o - even though I am not using any sprues in that one, I think you get the concept. Get your piece set up and send me a photo and I'll let you know what I think - Sound good?

[@magna59]

Nice vidi , simple , well filmed , helpful hints .... zig zag cuts & the like ......... but shame about the music .

[@JonathanNeill]

Thanks, what kind of music do you think you should be in the video, if any?

[@iarellano27]

What about shrinking the head?

[@JonathanNeill]

yes, it's possible to shrink the head. there's a technique using silicone and solvent as well as letting alginate dry.

[@fleurlewis]

Hey... If one can't make a silicone mould...can you cast resin in plasticine ?

[@JonNeillArtist]

+Fleur Lewis, no, don't do that. You can also use silicone caulking.

[@raphaelsolanine9284]

What was the original sculpture sculpted out of?

[@JonNeillArtist]

sculpting wax

[@pierrevandwalle18]

what is the initial sculpture made of? Scupley would work fine right?

[@JonathanNeill]

Yes Sculpey would be fine! :)

[@TusPrincessDisney]

Do you make the head sculpture?

[@juanrafael7752]

How many molds can one make from the starter kit if all they were molding were actuon figure heads ? Thanks

[@JonathanNeill]

Good question, you could calculate the cup size by a gallon and give you a rough estimate.

[@MerkWares]

What is the material used to make the air vents and fix the sculpt to the cup? Thanks in advance.

[@JonathanNeill]

wax rods, or thin gauge armature wire.

[@sbcinema]

👍

[@xiinkshop]

I want to ask, what is the material that creates the product, The formula to mix it,, Thanks you so much!

[@JonNeillArtist]

HI, All the information in the video is in the description about the video just below the video window. Best of luck!

[@alexandralaine1154]

Can you reuse the mild after it has been split?

[@JonathanNeill]

I assume you mean, can you make multiple castings out of the mold, - If so, the answer is yes, if the mold doesn't not have too many delicate undercuts, you can have it last over 100 castings. It really depends what the shapes are in the mold. If your question is can you reuse the silicone material for something else after you get your casting then the answer is sort of. You have to take your mold and run it through a meat grinder to break it up in tiny pieces, then mix those parts into a fresh batch of silicone. You'll use considerably less fresh material that way.

[@gorkous1]

Really detailed video, but the video links in the end cover up the list of materials used for making the casting. :/

[@JonNeillArtist]

Thankfully I put the list with links in the video description to help out with purchasing!

[@gorkous1]

See. This is why I need blatently obvious information. Lol Thanks, man.

[@davidstory8312]

Good video Jonathan. I was wondering if you won't damage your mould opening and closing it this way every time you cast another part ? In other words what's the lifespan of that type of mould ?

[@JonathanNeill]

That particular mold I bet I could get 60-80 castings from if using resin. If using some material that didn't get as hot, probably even more. The resin for so many castings is that there are not many undercuts if any. Moulds with more undercuts and delicate parts will deteriorate sooner. But really, opening and closing the mold, you'll have some sort of release, be it owner or a spray release and that extends the life of the mold, plus keeping it in a cool place ( library life). I hope that helps explain.

[@davidstory8312]

Jonathan Neill Thank you. 60-80 is not bad at all. I thought it will be much less. I have a one more question if you don't mind. What type of mould would you use to cast a truck wheel in 1/35 scale ?

[@JonathanNeill]

Have you seen my how to mould an action figure head video EASY! How to MOLD an action figure head & CAST in resin ? I would make a tiny block mold and cut down one side. The cut you make down one side is critical that it is NOT a straight line, you'll see what I mean in the video. This way you'll avoid extra seams to clean and a potential bad seam edge. Good luck!

[@kylemarsh66]

do you know anywhere where you can sends parts off to be resin casted?

[@JonathanNeill]

Send me images of your parts and how many you would like and I can give you quote - the price won't be like having parts cast overseas however.

[@captloizou]

Say I wanted to make my cast in black. What would I use with the plastic/resin to achieve that?

[@JonNeillArtist]

This black resin is absolutely awesome! I used it to do my helmet castings of my cosplay helmet - if you saw that video on my other channel. Here is a link to the resin. www.hobbysilicone.com/resin.htm#hiimpactblack

[@captloizou]

Jon Neill Thanks for the advice.

[@AlexBabcock-hw9iz]

Check out Toby Wayne Studios He does a silicone mold of a zombie head he sculpted called Rotten Rob a few of the things I saw missing in here compared to his video. 1. Before he does the main pour he uses the silicone brushed on the head to make sure the fine details don't get air bubbles in them. 2. When using a release agent (talc powder) he brushes it on with a brush then taps it out seems a lot more accurate way to make sure clumps in low areas aren't a problem. Not saying this wasn't a good video but maybe Toby has figured out a ways to make sure your molds and pours come out better.

[@JonNeillArtist]

Hi Chris, Thanks for your reply. Using a brush on can trap more air by nature. I actually prefer to evacuate my silicone with a vacuum chamber then do a high pour. There wont be any bubbles. If there are any, I'll take a tiny bamboo skewer or similar and run it by the area - the gravity of the silicone will pull the bubbles away. I've done the powder the way Toby has done his molds , and sometimes I will do it that way if the mold requires that technique. I think you'll learn the more you make molds, theres several ways and several variants per type of mold and for each sculpt. The same method doesn't necessarily work every time for every sculpt. You can also use an air nozzle or canned air and blow out your mold after using talc. Good times! Anyway, thanks for talking about that zombie head video, hopefully he will get many views!

[@AlexBabcock-hw9iz]

Thanks for taking the time to respond so quickly. I like to see how different people do things on the same type project. The more you learn the better off you are and there's things to be learned from everyone. The addy for hobbysilicone was very handy thanks. Have you ever used a silicone mold using a hotglue gun to fill it?

[@JonNeillArtist]

Do you mean casting with hotglue? Yes, it's cool for certain applications.