Easy Way to Straighten Lumber & Keep it straight UPDATE

[@donaldgarmon7368]

Thank You for your honesty in such a practical application. All homesteaders can benefit from such knowledge!

[@WilsonForestLands]

Hopefully it is helpful to someone. If anything, maybe it will show them what not to do.

[@EOTE_TX]

I have a Woodmizer LT-40 and saw quite a bit of southern yellow pine as well as hardwoods. If you would build yourself a pallet the length of the boards you are cutting with supports for the wood every 1 to 2 feet depending on the wood species, stack and sticker your lumber and then band your pallets with ratchet straps they will air dry and remain straight. Just remember to keep your ratchet straps tight and check them weekly. As the lumber dries and shrinks it is imperative to keep the straps tight. Keep your pallets out of the sun when drying and cover the tops to prevent water from rain soaking the boards again. You will get better results.

[@WilsonForestLands]

That is similar to what I did in the follow up videos in the series. Instead of ratchet straps I used weight.

[@MinnesotaBeekeeper]

We have the exact same, Mizer LT. If you don't take the trouble to dry and age the logs, this is no surprise. Will spaced stickers and we never have warps.

[@carterscustomrods]

This is fine until you rip the boards, or acclimate them to a different humid environment. Twisted boards are often a grain issue. If the grain is twisted, or varies from one end to the other, it'll always twist up with weather changes. This is why I prefer quarter sawn, or rift sawn lumber. It does this far less.

[@Edward-eo5fv]

The way that guy stacks lumber it's no wonder his boards are bowed

[@larrybulthouse455]

Right on

[@DavidWilson-vx9ux]

you are a good KZbinr. Don't worry about the grammar! you come across as a very honest dependable person. It's appreciated.

[@TVPiles]

In Europe they used to leave the logs in a pond before cutting them for a time, that way the sugars and starches in the wood get dissolved. That reduces the warping by quite a lot.

[@WilsonForestLands]

Normally I don’t have a big problem with them warping. Just did on these few.

[@chippysteve4524]

That is true but in the case of hardwoods,where possible, it is much easier to simply fell the trees in the winter when the sap is back in the roots as this will,as you mention,speed up the drying AND make the wood less interesting nutritionally to woodboring insects without all that extra handling. The reason for saturating often very wide logs in a pond for a few years was primarily,believe it or not,to greatly reduce the time to dry/season the log afterwards as there is much less goop hindering the escape of the moisture,especially when you require a timber of significant thickness e.g. a huge beam or post. The general rule of thumb for air-drying hardwoods like English oak by the way is 1 year per inch thickness plus 1 further year so if u need a 16 inch thick post or beam that won't shrink(e.g. a restoration job where other timbers have already seasoned or where ur doing something really fancy) it will dry much quicker if you soak it for say 2-3 years first so you don't have to wait 16+1=17 years.

[@cherimitchell8977]

Would ratchet straps work?

[@artsteadman2230]

Or find a mill that utilizes a true vacuum kiln that'll dry fresh cut wood in 7-10 days

[@phredka12]

Yeah you're right halfway. What was keep in mud for color and lifetime warranty. That kind of treatment was used to keep wood in good conditions for at least 500 years. Close to me company is drying wood in 3 weeks in heated vacuum chambers and there is no any worps

[@garydickerhoof6748]

Honesty and simplicity goes a long way when you're dealing with us folks

[@jump4j]

I screwed some wet pine to the joists in the basement for about a year took them down and made the frame for a screen door. works like a charm

[@Tinker1950]

Silly, senseless ungrammatical dross.

[@user-yv7kw1nr2q]

Pro tip, if you accidentally hit a piece of hardwood floor with a hammer or an object, take a steam mop (if it doesn't have a seal), if it has a seal, use a little bit of hot water, the fibers will absorb and and fill in the gap. As a builder, we did this on trim carpentry jobs.

[@funkydozer]

Your honest approach to YouTubing is refreshing. I work with wood as an amateur furniture maker in rainy England and crooked planks are always a problem here, even store bought planed timber is usually warped from poor warehouse storage, drives me nuts that they can get away with selling it like that. Will be interesting to know how your experiments turn out.

[@bradleymarshall5591]

You and me both! I recently made the mistake of getting my timber delivered as I was getting a couple of pallets of pavers. Didn't occur to me that the pricks would give me all the shit pieces that nobody will buy in person. Ended up getting the whole lot replaced and got to keep the original shit. Some of it was usable so good deal in the end 😂

[@oneeyedphotographer]

In Australia it's mostly pinus radiata, aka pinus twistus.

[@matthewnasci2646]

It's common to make assumptions and predictions. The only way to know is to experiment. But also, what may work for those few pine boards may not be the same for large lots, or other species. Attempt, and learn. Intelligent approach to find a solution to a problem.

[@morgansword]

Not too sure why I watch any videos anymore as I need to go outside for fresh air and get the blood circulation moving better. I have a problem with Lymphoma, most likely the wrong word as its a infection and not cancer. I will be seventy five in oct and just got out of the hospital for a heart attack that came close to punching my ticket. I am not trying to whine or bore you with my life story but think I might add something to this challenge of yours. Central Alaska doesn't have a ton of variates in timber. We have some spruce but just what one is not in my brain. I did used to know as many things seem harder now for things I wish I remembered. Nice Birch, and up high elevations have some kind of pine. The timber for the most part is not big around/diameter and limbs clear to the butt of the tree. Where ever there is a lot of this spruce is mostly swampy bad ground to build on where the Birch is nice ground and since this part of alaska is known for excellent gardens as in record size pumpkins and cucumbers, just many great garden stuff. I was a mechanic/fabricator for the better parts of my life but hey when you needed something..... you made or sawed or just about anything it takes to have something decent to live in. "In our dreams" is heard when buying a new home, costs of living is out of control... sliding again about this topic. One of the most common trees found here is Cottonwood and it does get seriously large but is known for unstable building material. It will twist while sawing it, that and if its dry then forget even sawing it. That is probably thee hardest wood when dry to cut on any kind of sawmill or even saw a worm drive circle saw. I was up against time and needed some lumber for protecting valuables till spring so cut what I had .... and that was green Cottonwood timber. My buddy who is even older than me (this is about fourteen years ago) said... quote: when sawing it, get all of the wain off of the boards and then toss it in the pond behind your home. Leave it there for a few weeks to let the oils in that timber soak out. Oil floats on water so it made sense to me. Granted you still needed to drill a hole in a board if you wanted to nail it down but it came out straight as a string. Even in a hot summer month that wood stayed straight and never curled, twisted or even split on my old building. I did use some old motor oil after a year went by for the looks of the boards were a faded look I wasn't happy with considering my place was painted and looked nice to me. This is rough cut as owning a planer wasn't a option for me. My big brother who was nine months older than me... as I weighed about two forty and he weighed one sixty soaking wet. I use past tense as he passed away in 2019 from cancer. He was a builder if any of us had the sense to just do what we knew how to do. We used cottonwood beams in his airplane storage building. The main header on the face of the building was sixty feet long and we just cut the tree by squaring it up so was around sixteen inches thick/square. We did this because of snow load and also we were in a hurry and the lake being right there tossed every board in the lake and floated it to the place we parked that old taildragger of his. I do believe that plane was built in the thirties as many planes do go back in time here in alaska. That building is still standing after twenty years and built from mostly cottonwood. Now days we do not see much sunshine, rain and then more rain with a outbreak of snow at any month of the year. As for nails in this kind of wood, the rules never change .... best drill those holes as soon as possible or forget even trying it.

[@greggerstner5599]

Possible that simply letting the logs sit for a while before milling will reduce some of the stress (also not leaving the pith in). Some millers have had better results doing this with warpy woods like sweet gum. A woodturner/woodworker and arborist in SC, I know about sweet gum and warping. PITA. Hope this works out. But if it doesn't, you can always sell these "prime boards" to Lowe's or one of the other big box stores. Like many others, I appreciate the honesty and BS-lessness (new word!?) and wealth of information in these videos. A breath of fresh air and new subscriber here.

[@MichaelStn]

The first KZbin channel NOT devoted to instant gratification. ;) fortunately for me, this update was from three months ago, and there may be an instant result… lol (laughing at myself)

[@lhpl]

Nor any other kind of gratification. He just earned his second downvote for wasting my time.

[@joeyrector1015]

Who says that you can't teach an old dog new tricks. This old dog learns something new everyday

[@WilsonForestLands]

It’s good to learn something every day, even if it’s learning what not to do.

[@joeyrector1015]

@@WilsonForestLands right

[@joekavanagh5708]

Teach an old LOG new tricks.😆

[@Ribs13]

So glad I found your channel. I live near a locust only lumber yard, the off cuts are super handy around here.

[@lectro88]

That mold is also called "Blue Johning" or Blue John. Many inspectors will make you remove blue johned lumber in interiors. Something you can look out for is that one board you held up and said "just look at this" .. I saw that a knot or limb went all the way across the board in both places where it was bucked and warped(that'll do it every time) A really time consuming method but effective in limiting warping is quarter sawing. But like I said, it's labor intensive and wastes a lot of lumber. It does make beautiful grain or tiger stripe lumber., common in guitar making and very desirable in certain applications. I do like your approach, simple and to the point.

[@charliesaul729]

In my experience, if weighted while air drying, once dry, they will stay flat unless they are not secured or primed and painted when the relative humidity rises. Therefore, boards installed inside normally only require a few finish nails, while exterior use may require screws. I have seen a sidewall where many of the 8d galv. nails had backed out and fallen on the ground within ten years!

[@WilsonForestLands]

That’s good input. It’s always good to hear from actual experience.

[@chippysteve4524]

That's why if painting,you shd always put at least a primer coat on both faces so they shrink/expand evenly,especially on thin boards using weak nails.

[@BulletproofPastor]

I haven’t watched the end yet but what you’re doing is a low temperature “steam bend”. It should dry straight. “Silo boards” (made to form circles) are the fault of poor milling and this might be a good rescue trick. Kiln drying kills wood destroying insects but moisture starts entering the dry wood as soon as it leaves the kiln. Without keeping it snickered and clamped down, warping is going to happen. Great content.

[@chippysteve4524]

I disagree.The effect of the application of heat (whether through steam or fire) is to soften the lignins (natural glues between fibres) allowing individual cells to slide past each other rather like bending and laminating multiple thin strips around a form before the glue dries. Increasing the moisture content expands the individual cells and does not allow them to slide past each other. 🙂

[@BulletproofPastor]

@@chippysteve4524 Good point and the best intentions often run amok.😂 Sometimes you’ll cut the bands of a full bundle of kiln dried lumber and boards spring in every direction but straight. They obviously didn’t start out that way. Kiln drying is supposed to stabilize the wood but it can have a mind of its own. Steam bending works best with air dried lumber ( I’m told) because kiln dried won’t soften to the steam like green wood will. In the end you do the best with what you have and try to fix what you can with whatever works.

[@chippysteve4524]

@@BulletproofPastor That's cos the boards were machined and banded before adequate seasoning rather than seasoned before machining and banding.When your suppliers cut too many corners,we end up going 'round in circles ;-)

[@BulletproofPastor]

@@chippysteve4524 That was my first thought regarding improper milling. Thanks for your input. I hadn’t thought of shortcutting the seasoning process but it makes sense. My lumber yard does replace badly twisted boards and even has a collection of the worst in a “hall of shame.” 😂

[@Personalized_Workshop]

The speaking English segment got me to subscribe here. Great experimental series. Looking forward to more.

[@anthonymcinnis6588]

I really like this guy. Will watch more.

[@JacVisser]

There is very little you can do because warping is dependent upon the density of certain areas inside soft wood, like knots and the heart of a log. The softer areas acts like a sponge and expand when wet, conforming to the original shape, while the denser parts take longer to absorb water and stays solid longer with more resin content. Then when drying, the softer wood expands away from the denser wood, opening up so to speak

[@PhilHibbs]

How long are you going to leave them? It’s been 3 months, I have no idea if that is anywhere near enough!

[@chippysteve4524]

That may be so in a limited way but I believe it is mostly due to tensions which were within the trunk being released upon sawing,exactly the same as bow along the length. I think that what you are saying applies more to which way a board will 'cup' across the width. which during drying means warping in the opposite curve to the growth rings or if moisture increases in a board that was already dry when milled,in the same direction as the growth rings i.e. the heart will expand/contract less than the outer rings.

[@Shifffyy]

Awesome video! Looking forward to the results

[@WilsonForestLands]

Thank you Kenny.

[@senatorjosephmccarthy2720]

My dad used to store a lot of wood, all sizes, all of it close to vertical, leaning against things. For decades. It all stayed straight. Now i have a lot, all different types and sizes, some old and thicker than 2"; all stored near vertical, and for many years, and it's all straight. Don't overload tree limbs, and remember your prevailing wind and the huge amount of strain a strong wind can put on limbs. Best to tie them off in bundles.

[@geraldg9226]

Hi . The old boys said if you get say 40 or 100 2x4x8 culled lumber and band the heck out of it and just dump the lift in the pond it will be good to work with just nail it down fast . LOL Always wondered if it would work .

[@kimkleiner8456]

My milling mentor informed me that when cutting second growth redwood for instance all the viable branches were going to grow 😂to the outside of the grove. Branches sprouting toward the inside would soon be growing in shade and tree wouldn't waste energy on them. After a while the weight of those branches would pull on fibers towards the inside of grove and compress fibers on outside to balance the tree and have it grow straight. Sometimes the wood would warp as soon as you cut it. He recommended in my case because i was using a mobile dimensional saw with one big circular blade and two edger blades to locate the knots on top or better yet on bottom of log. This type of mill you don't rotate log while cutting it. Tension on fibers of log cause it to warp vertically parallel to longer face of board. For deck boards ( most of our redwood business ) that kinda warpage could be pryed straight with Japanese catspaw as you nailed it down. If you were using it for beams for exposed beam ceilings you could stack it with crown up and beams would straighten while drying.

[@Carpenterdane]

I had a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood that had bowed. I hosed it down and set several cement blocks on it over a flat surface, my garage floor. It straightened it out. I left it about a week like that.

[@konradcomrade4845]

my uncle took home a truckload of large, old, wet logs, which had been in a river weir for decades. They were very heavy; we had to pump up the tires! After one year of drying they were so light, You could lift up one by hand alone! Dry without warping. Drying whole tree trunks usually makes them crack! One way to overcome that problem, I think, would be to cut off only a ring of bark around at the bottom, and let the whole tree stand and dry for one or two years vertically at its place. Then two years later cut down the pre-dryed tree! if that doesn't work perfectly enough then maybe drilling a long hole through the center of a trunk could help for non warp, non crack drying, esp very big, very old trees? The most valuable ones. Make good wood products, better than usual shabby Supermarket quality.

[@johnmcleod5123]

I read in Fine Woodworking Magazine,years ago,to always paint end grain with a high solids paint if you air dry and then store lumber,using stickers to separate layers of the stack.Also to use some type of restraint system to restrict movement; ratchet straps , face nailing or stack weight etc. When ever I buy Hm Depot lumber I always paint end grain immediately and face nail boards in pairs siting the board preferential warping direction and face nailing them together in opposing directions. Works for me,but if you’re building a house buy kiln dried lumber, not from H Depot. Lol😊

[@Stygianstevedore]

I'm so glad you're following up on this! But I wish it had come about a year sooner; I was struggling mightily to try to straighten out some boards last month, with no luck

[@WilsonForestLands]

You should have told me so I could have done it sooner. 😁

[@stefflus08]

The first 12 or so years of most conifers are quite rebellious. Then they straighten out and stiffen. It's usually twisted leftwards a lot to be able to react with sideways fiber pressure to push straight. For Norwegian Spruce and Pine we want that youth wood smaller than 2 inches in diameter, and may remove it for some applications.

[@castawaysmc]

I’ve soaked treated lumber in the lake that had warped. Usually after a couple weeks I could use it again as it was pretty straight. With it being soaked very well what little bit it was still warped was flexible enough that it wouldn’t break when I screwed it down and forced it to get completely flat. All you need to do is put a screw on both sides of both ends. If you’re not planning on using it at the moment then a little weight in the middle is needed if not being screwed there as well.

[@AmosSykes]

I put some loblolly pine boards that had warped in the rain and they straightened out. Then I clamped them until they dried. When they dried while clamped down the cracked open and warped a little less. I cut them up in shorter pieces when I used them. It didn't work for me.

[@FalloutBreakbeat]

If you ever do this experiment again, or decide to soak them again after this stage of the experiment, I'd be really interested in knowing how much longer/wider they are after soaking. The expansion amount would be a good indicator of how/if you can use them when still wet on a project and how it might affect the project as they dry out and contract.

[@chippysteve4524]

Shrinkage /expansion along the length will always be negligible because the tree fibres are rigid vertically so the tree doesn't squash itself into the ground under it's own weight . Movement of timber is in 2 directions - radially (towards the heart) and tangentially (along the annual rings).

[@-_.._._--_.-.-_-_-_-...-.-]

You're correct. ​@@chippysteve4524

[@cleanpowerelectric]

Sticking and bundling bent/warped planks then thoroughly soaking the wood has always worked well for me. .

[@ColdWarVet-qe5pt]

When I buy lumber that is sort of wet and do not use it for a few days, I put a cinderblock on each end and another lengthwise in the middle. Let them sit for a week or two to dry out, and they stay flat.

[@lectro88]

In a different situation.. I built steps from Red Oak 2-1/4' thick by 11-1/2" wide (massive jolly green giant style) They pulled and twisted so hard they popped the deck screws in half right passed where the threads ended and went to solid shank, and not just 1 or 2,.. at least 50% And .... The thinner 1" x 8" top deck boards did the same thing, cut from the same tree, trunk was 42" across where I cut these from and I'm guessing the tree was over a hundred years old, too many rings to even consider or think about counting. The trunk section was straight and very few knots, I actually was able to cut most of the knots out or away. I blame the sun baking on exterior side and the bottom side holding moisture for the bucking and twisting.

[@LeeDaiYing]

Pure superstition

[@stoneold8751]

Years sgo I layed a green oak floor. We. Soaked the boards in diluted polyglycol snti freeze. The antifreeze replacing the water in the wood cells stops the cells from drying out. We had minimal splitting and shrinkage.

[@tioraytm]

When you dry wood in a Kiln or just in a shaded pile you paint the ends with a water proof paint to stop the planks drying faster on the ends that tends to twist the wood. Wood is always stacked with spacers below and on top of each plank for even air flow.

[@bwillan]

This will be an interesting experiment for sure. I think it will be a lost cause as the boards likely have uneven stresses and tension in them. That is what is making them twist and warp. Looking forwards to the results.

[@WilsonForestLands]

If I had to bet on the results, I would go with what you just said. But we will see.

[@seanbays1235]

@@WilsonForestLands Are they dry yet?

[@tomcarroll6744]

I would try sealing the end fibers so that the drying rate would be the same over the length. Maybe plastic pallet wrap or some kind of sealant.

[@michaelrogers9809]

Boy, that stuff grew quickly!

[@KCBhandy]

Looking forward to seeing how this pans out. Couldn't agree more with your comment in your previous video about memes. I just find them hugely annoying, thanks for not using them 😊👍

[@georgehughes8535]

Please do a follow-up . Would love to know the results .

[@MrDeathsrevenge]

Since you had placed the boards on a trailer, you could’ve use tow straps if anything those may work just as good as clamps or may be better and still pile things on top if needed. I just feel like the tow straps would help to ensure they stay in place

[@morokeiboethia6749]

If you look at the ends of the boards, the ones that show the pith of the tree are very prone to S-twist because they will try to bend to the way the pith is running. Avoid using those boards where you need them to remain straight like a door rough opening or door jamb. They can be temporarily straightened but unless locked straight by screws/nails, they will try twist again. As for the other boards that do not have pith, the drying process has to be done right to get straight lumber and to prevent other drying defects. Kiln drying lumber- time, temp, humidity settings, etc will differ according to species.

[@supermegamusicNL]

Nice Pulp Fiction quote there 😊

[@kimkleiner8456]

Missed it?

[@billbuta6519]

@@kimkleiner8456 English do you speak it. Was the quote without the explicative…… English @$&+ do you speak it.

[@ryansetter9014]

Looks as crooked as some tamarack I cut to build a deck on my house. Had to do a lot of prying and screws to straighten everything up. It will be interesting to see how your lumber dries. Sometimes I use ratchet straps to keep my piles straight, not sure if it helps or not though. Another interesting video.

[@WilsonForestLands]

I was thinking about using ratchet straps to strap them down to something while they dry. But I will probably need to use them for something else before they dry so I decided not to. I can imagine they might be a good way to go to wrap around a stickered pile while they dry.

[@Blt-rr2lm]

Weird. Larch grows really straight.

[@botto2357]

I have screwed some boards together with some deck screws and it helps.

[@eugenemorganakakeek8941]

i cut and stacked with air spacers, lots of weight on top, covered it and some wool looks like a C. What worked is cutting it and building with it right away.

[@raymondloomer5405]

I've heard that steam will release the inner tension of the wood. This was in reference to bowl turning, the purpose being to reduce the incidence of the bowl splitting after being turned. The bowls would be rough cut then steamed at 1 hour per 1/4 inch of thickness. Then the bowls would rest for a year before the final finish turning. So steam might work on your lumber as well.

[@chippysteve4524]

yep releasing the tension so everything is where it wants to be before you start. I bet that with bowl blanks (although this might sound like heresy!) you could introduce that heat much more quickly in a microwave oven!!!

[@raymondloomer5405]

yup, heresy.@@chippysteve4524

[@joshm3342]

Maybe this is why you find better boards at lumber store if you dig down into the pile: The weight of the upper boards & more moisture retention. Any lumber I don't use right away, I store in my garage laid out on floor, stacked. It helps, but it takes up space.

[@philr748]

I noticed when you were laying the boards out while they were wet if you look at the ingrain pattern some of it you have Heartwood and you need to cut the hardwood out and you might be able to salvage some of the outer strips

[@1Shaco]

I love the update man , looking forward to the end results

[@WilsonForestLands]

Thanks for the comment. The update should be out in a few weeks after I come back from being away for the summer.

[@avellgray1273]

have you tried simply bar clamping the four logs together when theyre straight and wet, wouldn't that be easier and less pain then stacking all that wood? That being said if you needed to move it i guess its perfect

[@WaynesWorldGarage]

I sticker and air dry a lot of bowrds. If it is lumber I care about, I buy some Home Depot ratchet straps and strap them down tightly. I've got some walnut, white oak and cherry I did a while ago and it seems better than piling more boards on top.

[@NicolleWile]

Paint the ends of the logs before cutting into lumber. As long as the ends are painted well the moisture will be slow coming out and less warpage

[@carterscustomrods]

When cutting (depending on the tree) a quarter or rift sawn will limit twisting a lot!

[@richvail7551]

I don’t see a follow up video of the results. I’m invested. What happened and what did you learn? Thanks

[@WilsonForestLands]

I have been away most of the summer so haven’t done it yet. I just got back so update coming soon.

[@timfoster5043]

looking forward to the update. Thanks.

[@lagunafishing]

In the words of Monty Python; "Nail them up I say, nail some sense into them"! 🤣 Nailing wood into position and/or applying paint to seal them is about the only thing you can do to prevent wood warping.

[@DavidPaulNewtonScott]

I think you are on it here. The person who mentioned getting rid of sugars is right on it. You really want to be rid of them they provide an easy start for all rot. An interesting point is the Japanese boil logs. My plan on a house I am building in the Philippinesiò is to star mill logs. You end up with wood like long cheese wedges. The wood is therefore vertical grain. This does not warp and accomodates varying moisture simply by becoming thicker or thinner. The wood cladding will not be parallel, but no matter. You simply cut notches where you meet a mounting beam. DON'T put them through a planer thicknesser. Only the front face needs to be flat. Watch this space.

[@lindadelia9225]

I have a bed with wooden slats that are rounded/warped not flat. The slats are permanently in the steel part of the bed. Are there any solutions to make the slates flat & save the bed. I even thought of putting plywood over them. 😏 Thanks

[@T12J7]

I don't think you can do much to correct these boards, but what I think you can do is to avoid creating boards which bend like this. I think you could avoid creating board like this by cutting the lock after the log has already tried out. This way the boards you cut are already dry so they can't bend due to drying since they are already dry.

[@timwcronin]

The direction of the grain in the cut boards will still create a bend. Tension is being released whenever you cut.

[@Greebstreebling]

I bought some kiln dried tounge & groove pine from a timber yard here in the U.K. Unfortunately It dried out properly once it was installed on my bedroom floor. :( what a mess. I think selling it overrides the need to dry it properly. Modern times.

[@southernadirondackoutdoors]

The suspense is killing me 😁

[@WilsonForestLands]

I think I heard somewhere that patience is a virtue. 😁

[@mychannelgoaway2833]

Whenever I have told a certain friend to have patience, she always snapped back that shes not a doctor! 😂

[@southernadirondackoutdoors]

@@mychannelgoaway2833 🤣

[@Piccyman1]

Years ago when lumber was cut it was put in rivers for quite some time to start the seasoning process

[@Blt-rr2lm]

Ponderosa pine, or yellow pine, or bull pine makes the worst lumber ever. There is a reason it isn’t used much. It always twists when dry. I would like to see this experiment with lodgepole are white pine.

[@bunkbedsunlimited]

Rachet ties might work when stickering them.

[@McSlobo]

Hmm... perhaps heat them to bit over 170°C or 338°F and force them flat under weight or some other system. Then let them cool there. That's the temperature which is needed to bend wood, I guess it liquefies the lignin. To heat them up.... well, some kind of "oven" is needed.

[@calanber472]

What about putting sticker then a weight on top while they dry?

[@chippysteve4524]

What ur doing seems to be the same thing as putting all the boards in one stack and then holding them together with either 2 clamps or steel banding or lorry straps at each end. Ideally consecutive boards should have the 'wind' (twist) going in opposite directions ie flip some of them over before clamping/strapping/banding.This shd reduce the twisting and introduce an over-compensation which,when it recoils(literally!) a bit will help even more. I believe that the 'wind' is caused by the tree twisting during growth for some reason e.g. a neighbouring tree is felled and then this one moves towards the light. In traditional carpentry there is a rule for whether it's ok or not - if the twist follows the sun then good.If the twist is in the opposite direction then no good structurally. I think it's either called the 'left hand rule' or 'right hand rule'(depending on which hemisphere you live in) and by looking at the bark before felling(depending on the species,of course) you shd be able to spot the wrong-uns before you get your chainsaw out saving avoidable hassle

[@WilsonForestLands]

Good information. On some types of trees I can see the twist in the bark. Instead of the furrows going straight up and down, there’s a little bit of a spiral to them.

[@chippysteve4524]

firewood :-)@@WilsonForestLands

[@GFSwinger1693]

Would the solution be to let the log dry further before sawing?

[@expensivefreedom]

I just found your channel and am really enjoying the content. Not sure when summer ends in your world, but I’ve subscribed and turned on notifications so I look forward to finding out how this turns out. Keep up the great work!

[@WilsonForestLands]

Depending on the year, summer usually ends somewhere between the end of September and early November. Welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment.

[@matbritton6816]

Epic KZbinr. Perfect content.

[@rosewoodsteel6656]

Perhaps screwing them down to the trailer would have worked? I have problems with wet, pressure treated lumber. It seems if I don't use it right away, I always have some that twist.

[@munsters2]

I think they will dry straight, but once the humidity changes, they will quickly return to warped. Coating them in paint or sealer might keep them straight or straiter.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

Stickering didn't work for me but standing them straight up leaning against my building worked fine.

[@johnmckell4362]

I suspect they may never dry straight/staigh-ter due to how the fibres in the tree were arranged during its growth.

[@pernilsson9749]

If you dont have clamps, you can add the use of ropes to your "weighting". "Round the rope aroung the outgoing streossel wood between the layers of" crooked" wood. Bind it up on one side deep down. Go over the pile and stretch the rope on th bottom stroer. Repeat for every stroe row.

[@WilsonForestLands]

In the last video in the series we just used weight to weigh them down.

[@Twobrothersoutdoors]

Adirondack lumber never warps, but I have been told to sticker/stack on a level surface using a straight 2x what ever top and bottom the use ratchet straps to add pressure. I've never had to try it but "I'm told" 😏 actually we cut it and sell it green, alleviates the warping 😊

[@WilsonForestLands]

I never had any warping problems here either until I had some that I didn’t sell green. Selling green has always been my preferred method of keeping lumber straight. 😁

[@williamlloyd854]

Ur tone and way u do ur videos remind me of Merlin Perkins of Wild Kindom as when I was a kid

[@thildamoon]

love to see the result of the experiment

[@WilsonForestLands]

I had to give the lumber time to dry. That one will be coming out soon.

[@txkflier]

Interesting experiment and good entertainment as well. I'll subscribe so I can see the results and check out some of your other videos..

[@morgansword]

I see now that this video is a year old so curious if it worked. I know that our cottonwood trees are the same as they will even twist while sawing them. Almost wonder why the tree doesn't look like a corkscrew.... I seen a guy try to straighten cottonwood and then nailed it on the outside of a building. It did kind of work but some was so twisty that it pulled the nails out of the walls

[@jaquesaulait]

How about hanging them vertically to dry, with heavy weights bolted on to the bottom? Like, I don't know, 50kg or smething. It would be interesting to see what happens, at least.

[@bradjacobs1844]

Wood is bent by steaming. Common practice in wooden airplane construction and they stay bent! Wing ribs are a perfect example. If have straightened wood by soaking and apply twist or torque in the opposite direction while the wood is wet. Experience tells you how much twist to add. Two sticks, clamps and a surface to hold the boards secure, then leave to dry. Not corrected enough? Wet boards again and add more weight to to the ends of the boards that are clamped to the twisted lumber.

[@389293912]

Bolt or glue them together while straight to make 3x6s . Their random warping will compensate each other.

[@dg50484]

If you are experimenting. I would take one of those boards and cut it while it's wet. Cut them into quarter lengths then let them dry and see which pieces stay straight.

[@echo-hotel]

I don’t see an update on this. But this is basically what we’ve always done. Take our twisted boards, spay them with an antifungle like stuff, and let them get rained on and dry out until next year. The pile would get shuffled as we pulled them off the bottom in various ways until we got a forklift and made that so much easier. Most stayed straight. Some did not and we just re soaked them in a pond from our spring run off, pulled them a day or two later and cut different size holes in the board acording to what we needed them for sometimes just drilling holes was good and we used those right away. Other times we would cut hold 1/2 to 3/4 of the width of the board. We removed the cut outs and dried them separately. Then as the boards slowly dried we reinserted the cut outs and glued them in. They stayed straight without needing to be nailed down. Oh, I was a child 40ish years ago. My father did all this and I helped, but I never learned what all the things he did or used was called. The anti-fungal was home made. The glue was made just down the road. The way he cut them and reinserted them wasn’t always 90 degrees. That was the general rule, but he twisted them so they’d look the best they could. The glue was odd, it took days to dry. It soaked into the wet wood but not the dry so much. It changed color of the wet wood, but then replaning and stain hid that perfectly. Anyway, he died so I can’t ask. He taught buy showing. I learned next to nothing as I have to words to go with it all. When I evently statered asking he didn’t always know the words. And this is the story as to why I’m not a wood working of any kind, lol… 😅

[@WilsonForestLands]

The update isn’t out yet. I had to give them time dry. It will be coming out soon.

[@SnakeAndTurtleQigong]

Looking forward to it

[@308dad8]

My experience get straight boards to begin with. Sure if everything else is straight and strong you can nail them boards to a fence or wall and straighten them while they’re in the fence or wall.

[@MsdMakingSawDust]

Will be watching for the final results. I like the spring you have there. Did you block that up or was there a old water mill there ? Thanks

[@WilsonForestLands]

That is a concrete dam in the creek for irrigation water. There is a pipe at the bottom of it that goes to the property downstream from this one. That property retained the water rights from long ago. That dam is probably older than you and me put together.

[@MsdMakingSawDust]

@@WilsonForestLands That’s pretty cool, yes I figured it was pretty old. My father in-law has one on his property in Wv It’s spring fead and it distributed what to two homesteads . Glad to see yours is still standing to. Thanks

[@coreyhingley6196]

Have you done an update video on this yet? I didnt see it when i looked

[@WilsonForestLands]

I have done two updates since this one. I think this is the next one in the playlist. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJ6QY62GeM-Aoposi=mDziB8zU2FWQ_Wat

[@robertbecker2225]

Beautiful property! Where are you located?

[@BB-sm8ey]

Just so you know, using wire which you twist together to generate compressive force, works much better than simple weight.

[@PaulHodgson-gm6lg]

4" ratchet straps around the stickers, I dried birch straight. Just keep the tension up.

[@ProcessedDigitally]

thanks for these videos

[@PlanetOverProfit42069]

It looks like the warping is from them being milled incorrectly. The grain is going in two directions on the planks so they were slab cut and not cut properly with the grain of the wood.

[@MtrePierre]

For me ill use these in small lenth or ...as fire wood. It depend a lot what kind of wood . By exemple Chestnut or cedar stay straight, some others are catastrophic

[@williamlloyd854]

Please do a final after putting the boards under all the slash pile of slash

[@driverjamescopeland]

There's two types of warp caused in wood... grain bound, and resin bound. This is why rough cut lumber is cut larger than finish lumber, as they're trued up in finishing. Soaking can displace resin... but does NOTHING for grain binding. There's three ways to correct for warp that is grain bound: 1- for minor warping... after the wood has dried out, you can might be able to finish it to a smaller dimension 2- also for minor warping, you can soak the wood and hang it... but only if it's going to be used in a vertically supported application. When you put a load on it, it will try to return to it's natural twist 3- for serious warping, you can steam the wood and brace the twists out of it, allowing it to cure in the position you want. Obviously, this is labor intensive and expensive... so it's not something you would do with general purpose lumber. Hence why most people just throw kull boards away, or put them in the scrap pile for burning, making wedges, block and brace cuts, etc..

[@JakeJustIs]

Laughed at the Pulp Fiction reference at 1:40.