Eddy USB Sovol SV08 Install and Configuration

[@felixyasnopolski8571]

For 20mm distance - calibration cube works really well

[@markusmaeder1388]

I had bad first layers with the original probe and switched to the BTT Eddy USB. Seems to be a really big improvement. Thx to Sovol for keeping the printer OpenSource, thx to Biqu for the Eddy Probe and last but not least, thank you for this video!

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I'm glad I was able to help!!!

[@jannekallio5047]

Thanks for the video! One problem with many of these kind of videos is that there is no explanation what the thing is and what are it's benefits = why should I do this? Most videos just jump in expecting the viewer to know it all. Another nice thing would be to mention other options (if there are such) and compare them a little.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks for watching. I agree, it is hard to do these videos and include all aspects. That is something I am looking to work towards and do differently than everyone else! Appreciate the feedback.

[@alexmiller7879]

If you are searching for a video on how to set up the Eddy, it is assumed you already know what the device is. This is a how to video, not an explanation on what the device is.

[@KS_Husker]

This is very helpful. Thank you for sharing.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

No problem at all, happy to help!

[@garyblenkhorn4566]

Great VID Aaron. I have my Eddy on order and will be following your steps again.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

This one is way easier than the klipper upgrade too!

[@garyblenkhorn4566]

I had to reflash my eMMC today after a forced power stop when the z limit failed on me. It must have corrupted something on the eMMC. Redid everything but luckily did not have to flash the MCUs. Luckily I had a backup of all my files so it was much easier this time around. Only took about 30 minutes. .

[@YaelLorenzo]

Hello, thanks for the detailed video. I may have missed something while working on other stuff during this first attempt. Did you manage to connect the probe to the board internally, or are you using the external port or a hub?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I did go back and route the USB cable internally. I ran it along with the existing cable for the tool head, unclipped where it meets the base, and ran it through and there is a second USB port on the board that works.

[@YaelLorenzo]

@@ThePrintasaurus awesome!! Thanks for de details. I just finished a DIY enclosure and waiting for a bigger fan to be installed. After that I will definitely follow your guide ❤️. I am tires of running the offset on the fly when the print starts.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@YaelLorenzo No problem at all! How did you do your enclosure? I have some acrylic panels laying around that I might CNC in a video to make a diy enclosure soon. Just need to find another panel to complete it.

[@YaelLorenzo]

@@ThePrintasaurus I followed this guys instructions kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5uVaIOrg76pga8si=CdxQ2hwF9Hq7pUH_ He has a document with the cuts and some templates for the drillings. It saved me a lot of time. I used 5mm acrilic as I couldn't get anything else in between 2.5mm. If I could have selected, I would have used 3mm for the sides and 5 for the top (to avoid future bending l, bad experience with other stuff : 😅) I cut an old drill bit for the hinge pins and designed my own handle ( to be published in thingiverse soon) to be in the middle of the frame. Strong magnets glued to avoid interfering with the belt. I can update here when I post the handle if you like.

[@mvroegh1]

Thanks... very helpful video.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Appreciate the support! Glad it helped!

[@sbhanji]

Hello, thank you for the detailed video. I am using Eddy Duo (USB) and when I try to "LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy" I end up with the value 0. I have tried moving the z-axis closer to the bed, but at any height it always return 0, any ideas? I have triple checked my configuration and all match up 😞

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I have an Eddy Duo I am getting ready to use on my Voron 2.4. I'll try and work on that this afternoon/tomorrow at the latest and get back to you to see if there are any issues. You want to be 20mm away from the bed surface to do the drive current calibration. I did find an article with someone having the same issue, they recompiled/reflashed the eddy and then they were able to calibrate correctly.

[@sbhanji]

@@ThePrintasaurus Thank you, let me know what results you get, I have already tried reflashing but no joy 😞

[@krunchy3761]

After you demonstrate the lsusb, which device on YOUR console is it? There is no match for Raspberry Pi RP2 Boot in your console. Is it the one that ends in rp2040?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

If your in boot mode with the eddy USB - done by pressing and holdling the boot button and plugging in usb a the same time. When you do your lsusb - it should come up as "Bus 001 Device XXX: ID XXXXXXX (whatever your device id is) Raspberry Pi RP2 boot. The device ID is what you want to copy and add to the make flash FLASH_DEVICE=thedeviceid. Once ran it will convert that device name to usb-klipper_rp2040_XXXXXXXXXXX_if00 If you are seeing that, it was completed successfully. To test / check. Unplug your Eddy. ssh into your printer and run that ls/dev/serial/by-id/* You should only see two usb-klipper devices - one is your tool head and the other the mainboard. When you do a lsusb - you should see two OpenMoko stm32f103xe those again are your tool head and mainboard. Press and hold the boot button on the eddy, and plug it back into the usb port at the same time. Run your lsusb and you should now see a raspberry pi rp2. If you have already flashed your eddy - when you do lsusb it will display as OpenMoko rp2040. Let me know, happy to help you get things sorted!

[@KS_Husker]

FYI there are quite a few additional settings in the eddy.cfg file now. And when I went to do the first rapid scan, it probes a bunch of individual points even though I copy/pasted the line for rapid scanning. I am not sure why it is doing this still.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Are you running this? What command are you using for rapid scan? BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan does that allow the rapid scan? In your sovol-macros.cfg around line 103/104 you should have this as part of your Print_start. #BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1

[@dreysbimmer]

@@ThePrintasaurus I am having the same problem. changed #BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1 still same problem

[@ThePrintasaurus]

​@@dreysbimmer Back up your eddy.cfg and try this. This is my eddy cfg macros. In the eddy.cfg after the ########## macros and related ###########. Replace everything with this below. Once you have that saved in your eddy.cfg. Open your sovol-macros.cfg and around line 103/104 look for your BED_MESH. And make sure that line reads this. BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1 [save_variables] filename: ~/printer_data/config/variables.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [force_move] enable_force_move: True # Allows a user to move the z axis down if they have no other means of homing Z and need to calibrate the Eddy. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [delayed_gcode RESTORE_PROBE_OFFSET] initial_duration: 1. gcode: {% set svv = printer.save_variables.variables %} {% if not printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].restored %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ svv.nvm_offset|default(0) } SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=restored VALUE=True {% endif %} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop # Take note of the lines that should only be used if you have a KNOMI installed. [gcode_macro G28] rename_existing: G28.1 gcode: #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=True # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg G28.1 {rawparams} {% if not rawparams or (rawparams and 'Z' in rawparams) %} PROBE SET_Z_FROM_PROBE {% endif %} #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=False # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [gcode_macro SET_Z_FROM_PROBE] gcode: {% set cf = printer.configfile.settings %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG Z={printer.probe.last_z_result - cf['probe_eddy_current btt_eddy'].z_offset + printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset} G90 G1 Z{cf.safe_z_home.z_hop} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE] rename_existing: Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE_ORIG gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=nvm_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset } # Uncomment the lines in this macro if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET] rename_existing: SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG variable_restored: False # Mark whether the var has been restored from NVM variable_runtime_offset: 0 gcode: {% if params.Z_ADJUST %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset + params.Z_ADJUST|float } {% endif %} {% if params.Z %} {% set paramList = rawparams.split() %} {% for i in range(paramList|length) %} {% if paramList[i]=="Z=0" %} {% set temp=paramList.pop(i) %} {% set temp="Z_ADJUST=" + (-printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset)|string %} {% if paramList.append(temp) %}{% endif %} {% endif %} {% endfor %} {% set rawparams=paramList|join(' ') %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE=0 {% endif %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG { rawparams } # This macro automates a lot of the frequency mapping process and simplifies the steps significantly. [gcode_macro PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO] gcode: BED_MESH_CLEAR G28 X Y G90 # Abs positioning G1 X{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x/2 } Y{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y/2 } F6000 {% if 'z' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z-1 } # Allows the user to work it down until it touches. {% endif %} PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE {rawparams} #This macro is optional but useful if you want to run a rapid scan before each print. Simply uncomment it and add BED_MESH_SCAN to your print start code. [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] rename_existing: BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE gcode: # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=True #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=False #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg

[@dreysbimmer]

@@ThePrintasaurus fixed it by removing the # in sovol-marcos.cfg before METHOD=rapid_scan originaly its BED_MESH_CALIBRATE_BASE ADAPTIVE=1 #METHOD=rapid_scan Thanks for helping.

[@M4ddon.]

@@ThePrintasaurus I had the same problem, but for me the sollution was to take the last set of text out of your comment and place it on the bottem of the eddy.fcg file so thank you for the guides and comments. and i wanted to say that this guide is a big step up from your mainline klipper guide verry useful and clear to follow.

[@Liberty4Ever]

The BTT Eddy looks pretty sweet compared to the 8 mm inductive probe that's standard on the SV08. The stock inductive proximity sensor doesn't provide a very accurate bed mesh even with averaging two readings, and it's not temperature compensated, however the Amazon reviews on the Eddy are not very good, including a comment that Bigtree Tech keeps relisting the Eddy, presumably to hide all of the bad reviews. I'm going to wait to upgrade the 8 mm inductive proximity sensor. I don't see any need for half a micron of probing accuracy with the Eddy when the thin aluminum bed on my SV08 warps more than 1 mm across its surface when heated to printing temperature. I started the mod where the magnetic sheet is drilled to expose the mounting screws so the thin aluminum bed can be removed and 3D printed plastic shims can be used to level the bed and pre-stress it so it warps to a flatter taco shape. The aftermarket upgrade we *really* need for the SV08 more than any other is a thicker stress relieved cast aluminum bed that doesn't warp into a taco when heated, preferably with user accessible mounting screws with leveling springs underneath. I see that you're upgrading the nozzle on your SV08. When assembling my SV08, I installed the MicroSwiss hot end. I love that I can now cold swap a MicroSwiss FlowTech nozzle in a minute using nothing but a 7 mm nut driver, without needing to remove and reinstall the heater and thermistor without damaging them, as is needed with the stock nozzle. I also replaced the stock motherboard fan with the Noctua NF-A4x10 24V fan. It's so quiet that I didn't bother to put it under PID control to lower the speed to the lowest that would cool the MCU and turn the fan off when the SV08 is idle. The Noctua fan runs all the time and it's so quiet I can barely hear it. That added five minutes to the SV08 assembly time and was well worth the time and money.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks for the reply! I am finishing up a video on the micro swiss hotend. Being able to swap the flowtech nozzles with minimum effort it awesome. I frequently go back and forth with a .4 and .6. The flow is better and more consistent too. I was having some issues with PETG and the stock hotend, it would clog on occasion. No issues with the micro swiss. The bed... Mine is a taco, and gets worse the more it's heated. I have played with the idea of swapping to a 8mm thick voron bed. I have a cheaper 50.00 350mm bed that I had swapped out on my Voron 2.4 for a Mic6 bed that stays almost perfect on the voron. I have found a few have made adapters to adopt the 2.4 bed to the sv08. I think l'm going to do a video on it and why people may want to look towards an improved bed. I'm on the fence with how far I want to try and improve this printer. My original idea was to pick and choice lower cost options that would improve the print experience with the SV08. Changing beds, and everything start to push prices up into the lowerend Voron 2.4 kits. But I can see the value in doing these mods at the same time. You can start with something at a good price point and pick the mods you want to do. The SV08 means well, and I think Sovol did a good job in terms of offering a Voron like printing experience at a price point that's affordable, and something you don't have to have the knowledge to assemble, and program - until you start modding it! With the Eddy Coil. I have seen a few issues with the shielding of the usb cable. I have a higher quality cable, but have not had a chance to pin it and install. I'm hoping that improves some of the noise/frequency interference issues. It hasn't been a consistent issue for me, but I have a few emails so far and inputs on issues with that. The Fan mod is 100% a must. Instant improvement, as you said even without setting it up to be temperature controlled. Thanks again for sharing your inputs!!

[@Liberty4Ever]

@@ThePrintasaurus - Totally agree on all points. I like Sovol. I love that they're embracing open source, giving credit where due, contributing back to the community (code, mechanical designs and a little cash). There is definitely a business model where open source can be leveraged to make a product that is re-engineered to be more suitable to manufacturing, and the SV08 was a noble effort. Sovol got a lot right in the SV08. As an engineer, it bugs me to see the places where Sovol was a little penny wise but pound foolish. I would have loved to spend $100 more and had a flat print surface and 5" touch screen, and maybe a reliable camera. I don't mind paying extra to upgrade the hot end although I wish all 3D printer manufacturers would form alliances and get discounts on good extruders rather than building their own as that's usually the weak point although the 3D printer manufacturers are finally starting to make good extruders and hot ends starting in 2024. Similarly, 3D printer manufacturers should ship their products with plain vanilla Klipper instead of cobbling their own version, and they should ship their printers with configuration files for OrcaSlicer, SuperSlicer and PrusaSlicer rather than re-skinning one of the slicers that is guaranteed to be out of date and become more out of date. That's wasted effort that could be spent ensuring we have good profiles for the slicer we already use. So far, my SV08 is printing well. PLA is forgiving enough that the taco bed isn't causing problems. The camera didn't work, then worked for a few minutes after I upgraded the firmware, then quit again. The Sovol SV08 camera trouble shooting page has several generic recommendations then asks the community to let them know when we've fixed the unreliable camera problem. My SV08's WiFi didn't work either. Most people apparently had the camera problem or the WiFi problem but I had both. I plugged a Vonet 2.4 GHz WiFi bridge into the SV08's Ethernet port to get it on my wireless LAN. It would be nice if these annoying issues were resolved before the SV08 shipped. I waited half a year to avoid bleeding edge new product issues, and still had these problems, but it's still a good printer for the money and it'll take a lot less time and money to get the SV08 where I need it than building a Voron 2.4. If I can drill the magnetic sheet, remove the heated print bed, shim it, rinse & repeat a few times and get the bed flat to within 0.2 mm, that's probably good enough for the girls I go with, but it really should be much better. If it's not too difficult to switch to a Voron 2.4 build plate, I'd be willing to do that but I'm not ready to delve into the engineering. I'm lazy enough that I hope someone makes a video explaining what to buy and how to do the upgrade. Subscribed! 🙂 My SV08 wish list: Stay flat print bed Rock solid WiFi Camera that just works 0.1 mm accuracy or better bed probing MicroSwiss hot end (done) 3D printed enclosure (I'm designing it and will upload to Printables/Thingiverse) Good OrcaSlicer profiles (I'll develop profiles the PLA, PETG, TPU and ABS that I use)

[@felixyasnopolski8571]

@@Liberty4Ever I'm doubling down on the bed/profiles/better probe, but.... Guys, I'm really curious what's the problems are with your wifi and camera? It's just the same linux as on RPis/OrangePi or wherever else, if something doesn't work - don't rant, look how to fix it not on SV08, but for Linux. If there would be some hardware-dependent stuff - look for SoC name too. I've seen that regularly during discussions on something new - people starting to reiterate same stuff, and one non well-versed in Linux guy gives assurance to another guy with same Linux level, and they starting to think that it's printer's problem. Everything that doesn't touch moving/heating parts - is a software-backed. Yep, I think that quality control and R&D could be a bit better, but after all... there's really simple way, how to look at it with a fresh mind: by forgetting that it's SV08 and by treating it like Voron2.4 with sensorless homing. Because it's what actually it is, just with a wee bit crappier extruder and injection molded parts.

[@Liberty4Ever]

@@felixyasnopolski8571 - Totally agree on the Just Fix It attitude. My list of issues was as a warning to those who might expect an SV08 to print without fixing things. I suspect the WiFi issue is the internal antenna, maybe badly routed or missing). I plugged the SV08 Ethernet port into a WiFi bridge. Fixed. The web cam is probably a timing issue. It mostly works. If not, I go into Mainsail and restart Crowsnest. The other deficiencies I listed, I'm slowly fixing. I'm heat soaking manually to get good accurate bed meshes and first layers but need a better fix. For now, I'm printing, and liking the SV08.

[@bradleyliebl2931]

I bought the E3D EZ probe but was wondering if the eddy would be better since I was going to do it anyways and going for the faster one seems a better idea if I'm already installing something.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I have looked into the PZ probe potentially for one of my vorons. I have a standard revo hotend, with tap on that machine. The eddy is very fast, and reduces the prep time a bit even with a heat soak to prep the bed before printing. The tap and what the PZ probe would be are really accurate as well. I think it really comes down to what you are trying to do. Speed at the sacrifice of some accuracy (eddy) or the Pz probe accurate but a slower method with having to touch the bed to probe. Both would be a vast improvement over the SV08 inductive probe.

[@bradleyliebl2931]

@@ThePrintasaurus I have been holding off to see how the eddy does, I have been running a bambu E3D obsidian nozzle on the SV08 and it has been great with great flow and the prints look clean so it puts me in a situation that I cannot run mt E3D EZ probe. I am waiting to see what the reviews are for the eddy longer term. My sovol has pretty good first layers with the stock one just a little squished as long as I soak the bed.

[@jschroedl983]

Why is manual bed leveling with paper still required? Doesn't the SV08 come with a probe on the back of the build plate?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Yes you do have the probe point on the back of the build plate. If your migrating to mainline klipper, you have to setup all your sovol marcos to work again. So my mindset in this case was I didn't plan to use it as the recommended method for setting the offset with the eddy is the old fashioned paper test. Which works. Offset has stayed consistent with the Eddy probe, and I'm only resetting my offset when swapping nozzles. I'm actually in the process of reworking that back section to allow a purge bucket to purge, then clean the nozzle before prints. Thanks for the question / comment! And for giving my content a look. Appreciate it!!

[@cassiqz5471]

I have a question about temperature compensation, when I enter the command TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4, does my toolhead automatically move all the way to the right and doesn't stop in the middle like it should? Maybe you have any idea what this could be? Thank you very much !

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Did you home your axis's and then do a G0 Z5 before you ran your TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4? Dont' forget to set your idle timeout either. SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=36000. You shouldn't have any movement on your x or y axis in this process. You should only be stepping down to set the z-offset at each temp range to allow the temperature compensation.

[@cassiqz5471]

Yes i followed the instruction, but after i enter the probe eddy 56 step 4 in it moves instant to the right side 😅

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@cassiqz5471 Did you have the same type of movement when you did the first probe calibrate? PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO CHIP=btt_eddy

[@cassiqz5471]

No thats the funny thing, it came with temperature probe

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@cassiqz5471 I am not sure what would cause that. I'm going to play around to see if I can create the issue to help troubleshoot with you. I would of expected the same behavior.

[@slowlane3391]

I installed the btt eddy on my svo8 and have found it to not be great for z-offset. It works ok after a calibration, but later on when you go to print its always out just like the original probe.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

What does your bed mesh look like? I have found that I have to let the bed heat soak at whatever temp I am printing at for 5 minutes or so. Then when I run my print start - it bed meshes and first layers are consistent. If it's cold and I go straight to printing when the bed heats up I have had some issues. Also did you do the heat compensation calibration? You may need to revisit that after your initial calibration. You can also do this below to add the z-offset save function, which will work more like a traditional probe offset adjustment and allow you to save your z-offset. In your eddy config I would comment out your existing macros and paste the below in what I am using for macros. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [save_variables] filename: ~/printer_data/config/variables.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [force_move] enable_force_move: True # Allows a user to move the z axis down if they have no other means of homing Z and need to calibrate the Eddy. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [delayed_gcode RESTORE_PROBE_OFFSET] initial_duration: 1. gcode: {% set svv = printer.save_variables.variables %} {% if not printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].restored %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ svv.nvm_offset|default(0) } SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=restored VALUE=True {% endif %} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop # Take note of the lines that should only be used if you have a KNOMI installed. [gcode_macro G28] rename_existing: G28.1 gcode: #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=True # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg G28.1 {rawparams} {% if not rawparams or (rawparams and 'Z' in rawparams) %} PROBE SET_Z_FROM_PROBE {% endif %} #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=False # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [gcode_macro SET_Z_FROM_PROBE] gcode: {% set cf = printer.configfile.settings %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG Z={printer.probe.last_z_result - cf['probe_eddy_current btt_eddy'].z_offset + printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset} G90 G1 Z{cf.safe_z_home.z_hop} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE] rename_existing: Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE_ORIG gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=nvm_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset } # Uncomment the lines in this macro if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET] rename_existing: SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG variable_restored: False # Mark whether the var has been restored from NVM variable_runtime_offset: 0 gcode: {% if params.Z_ADJUST %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset + params.Z_ADJUST|float } {% endif %} {% if params.Z %} {% set paramList = rawparams.split() %} {% for i in range(paramList|length) %} {% if paramList[i]=="Z=0" %} {% set temp=paramList.pop(i) %} {% set temp="Z_ADJUST=" + (-printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset)|string %} {% if paramList.append(temp) %}{% endif %} {% endif %} {% endfor %} {% set rawparams=paramList|join(' ') %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE=0 {% endif %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG { rawparams } # This macro automates a lot of the frequency mapping process and simplifies the steps significantly. [gcode_macro PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO] gcode: BED_MESH_CLEAR G28 X Y G90 # Abs positioning G1 X{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x/2 } Y{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y/2 } F6000 {% if 'z' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z-1 } # Allows the user to work it down until it touches. {% endif %} PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE {rawparams} #This macro is optional but useful if you want to run a rapid scan before each print. Simply uncomment it and add BED_MESH_SCAN to your print start code. [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] rename_existing: BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE gcode: # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=True #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=False #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg

[@slowlane3391]

@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the macros above. I can see they are from the eddy beta config file. Updating to these macros I am now able to save the z-offset and now its been consistent for 5 test prints. I tested both from a cold start with 5 minute heat soak and starting a print after the previous finishes and am getting the z-offset to be spot on or only out +/- 0.05 mm which is easy to adjust while its doing the purge lines.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@slowlane3391 I'm glad things are working more consistently! The beta z-offset config I'm going to add to my description. I've been using / testing for a week or two now and with you confirming successful prints I think it's a good option to include. Something I am looking into now is the bed, mine is close in anyway to being flat. I'm experimenting with shims, but might look at bed replacement options too to see if I can get things even better!!

[@dwuk99]

Great video - just ordered an SV08 myself and would like to do quite a few upgrades to it - including your EDDY one, multiple print heads, larger bed. Like the ship in the background - is It 3d printed? My main objective for the upgrades is to build a printer than can print ships like that, multi colour, really fast, in one go.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks for the comment! That ship is actually pretty old. Was my wifes great grandfathers. Sounds like you have some great projects your going to be working on. I have not explored the multi-print heads yet. I'm going to be experimenting with the armored turtle filament changer once all my parts arrive. Will be a 4 color setup. Will probably be a month or two before I can do any content on that video! Keep me posted on your project, interested to see how it goes!!

[@dwuk99]

@@ThePrintasaurus Good luck with that - I would like to add some sort of MMU to my SV08 too - probably in addition to a tool changer. My ideas - some of which might be a step to far are illustrated in this short video if you are interested. kzbin.info/www/bejne/amiclpauhZKmhac

[@ThePrintasaurus]

That video is fantastic and crazy at the same time lol. The dual gantry is an interesting concept. Keep me posted on your project really interested to see how much you do.

[@gargoyle67]

My Eddy usb worked ok the first time a ran the temp com calibration, but now if I try and run it I get "Manual probe failed! Use TESTZ commands to position the nozzle prior to running ACCEPT" and subsequently get "temperature_probe btt_eddy: calibration aborted" it happens right after I try and save the first heatsoak Z offset save. I've homed all and ran the Z 5 mm, Any clue as to what happened ? should I delete my calibration save data and try again ? Thanks and merry xmas =)

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Merry Christmas to you as well! What are you seeing in your printer.cfg. Scroll to the bottom, the section that says do not edit. Do you have something like this? Curious if the initial calibration failed. Under the calibrate = you should see a large amount of data. [probe_eddy_current btt_eddy] reg_drive_current = 15 calibrate = I would rerun your drive current calibration. Make sure you are at 20mm and rerun your LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy Make sure you save that - SAVE_CONFIG Then reset your z-offset - PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO CHIP=btt_eddy again save that. Then rerun your temp offset calibration. G0 Z5. SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=36000. and then your calibration command - EMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4 I switched to the Z-offset beta config as well - which allows you to fine tune and use your Z-micro steps to tune your offset and save it. Wanted to mention that as well. You can copy the macro section, everything below ###########macros and related ############ and replace what you have there. Just wanted to share what I have found to be a nice addition. github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy/blob/master/sample-bigtreetech-eddy-zoffbeta.cfg

[@gargoyle67]

@@ThePrintasaurus Yep that fixed it, thank you and happy new year ! Oh and I see there is an firmware update out now, someone really needs to do a vid on how to correctly update mainline klipper firmware ! ;)

[@Hotkife]

Have you had any "mcu 'eddie' unable to connect" Errors on klipper yet? I did the same install last week on my sv08 and kept getting intermittent freezes mid print coming from the eddy. After some GitHub reading I bought some ferrite cores and used one on the eddy cable and another on the tool head umbilical. I've not had an issue since. This is something to do with EMF Interference apparently. Just dropping this here to save people the headache I had.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I have not gotten the "mcu eddie unable to connect" yet. I will keep an eye on that. I did not attempt to modify my usb cable, so I wonder if the quality of the shielding isn't good, or if it's shielded at all!! I'll drop a link if I can find a higher quality cable that is cost effective and see if I can do a video on converting to those for the tool head and eddy. Thanks for sharing that information. My plan with this printer is to do a series of upgrades to improve reliability and performance.

[@Hotkife]

@@ThePrintasaurus The shielding is the conclusion that was reached on GitHub discussion.

[@blaine_th3_mono]

Hey there! I got this error periodically. It makes my butt hurts when long print fails. I'm running Neptune 4 Plus with Eddy USB. I'll try cores, hope it works.

[@Hotkife]

@@blaine_th3_mono I haven't had an issue since sticking the ferrite core on the usb and my hotend umbilical. The latter was just for good measure to be honest. I hope it sorts it out for you

[@blaine_th3_mono]

@@Hotkife Hi! I installed ferrite cores on every interface cable (eddy, usb hub) and carefully would say that as for now have no issues on two long time prints.

[@Dutch1969]

on my sv08 the fan was actually on the connector on the bottom right (the 3 pin connector)

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Interesting. When did you receive your printer? Mine arrive in early August. I wonder if this is / was a QA check. I'm curious what Pin is assigned to your front fan? I went back and looked at my original print.cfg to make sure I wasn't crazy and it's PB0 - which is the top right, PB1 is the lower fan connector. So my SV08 appeared to ship plugged into the upper right pin!! Now I'm curious if others are experiencing this issue. I'm going to add the pin # for each location in the description so everyone can adjust as needed.

[@Dutch1969]

@@ThePrintasaurus mine is connected to PB1 . [fan_generic fan1] # front model cooling fan pin: extra_mcu:PB1 max_power: 1.0

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@Dutch1969 Thanks for following up. I'm going to add that information now, so whomever can use either if the configuration is different. Thanks!

[@garyblenkhorn4566]

@@ThePrintasaurus there are 2 location where you can plug in the cover fan. They are both Fan 3 PB0. If I could post a pic of all the connection I would. I will email it to you.

[@Kamikatze108]

I received mine two weeks ago and was also connected bottom right

[@mitchellout]

Great video, easy to follow and understand. Interested in your view on the calibration/z-offset functionality. With the increasing popularity of quick/cold change nozzles (E3D Revo and Micro Swiss Flowtech), frequent nozzle changes (hardened, hi flow, >0.4) might become more of a thing. The stock automatic z-offset should be of great use. The way Eddy seems to be setup, this doesn't work. Others implement contact/tap (Carthagropher/Beacon), but although this was also worked on for Eddy, this seems not to be finalized or planned yet (to my knowledge). Would you see a combination of the Eddy in conjunction with the load cell as a possible workaround or maybe a less involved calibration procedure than the first calibration?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks for watching and the support! Very good question, just to add I am testing the micro swiss flowtech soon! I am a fan of the quick change nozzles, I think it adds a ton of versatility and makes the process fast. I have been playing around with the Beta Z-offsets for the eddy coil. The macros allow you to save Z by micro adjustments. So far I'm able to fine tune to an extent but I'm fighting the bed issues now too. The bed I have is far from level, and I'm looking into options to improve things there. Tap is one of my favorites for the reasons you have mentioned. Eddy has the advantage of speed, which is why I wanted to give it a shot. A load cell would be a good option to compliment eddy, I'm hopeful as things advance with Eddy that BTT will offer some extended features. I think it's got potential. The calibration process is lengthy, the temperature compensation is a welcomed addition with the USB version. Beacon is something I'd like to try next, all the feedback I have seen so far has been really positive. I just picked up a Orange Storm Giga, and I'm looking into the "blue storm" which pairs the beacon probe with a Chube hotend. I'll keep you posted on my progress with Eddy and the Sv08, I'd like to continue fine tuning and playing around with the beta macros to see if there is a "secret sauce" to getting things more dialed in and a process to make things more interchangeable. I'm going to run into this scenario when I start working with that flowtech. So I'll have something to create a workflow and finetune what I can to cut down on calibration time. I'll share that as soon as I get it figured out!!

[@mitchellout]

@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the thorough reply. Great to hear you are also considering the same aspects in this printer journey. I've subscribed to your channel, so I'm looking forward to updates on your experiences. Good luck!

[@jsInstalls]

When I run the make command itni get an error cause it’s trying to use avr instead of arm even though I have selected the rp in menuconfig

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Can you email me the log / output when you do your make command? [e-mail]. Would like to take a look and see what's going on, from my understanding your make command is utilizing the avr-gcc, instead of arm?

[@jsInstalls]

@@ThePrintasaurus actually I just got it to flash this morning at 3am. While trying anything and everything I accidentally deleted my Makefile I downloaded one I found on GitHub and I was able to flash so apparently I had something wrong in the original Makefile file. Thx for the willing to help. I do have An unrelated issue with flashing an Arduino nano if you could help with that would be appreciated

[@jsInstalls]

@ I figured it out at 3am this morning. Was trying anything and everything to get it working and accidentally deleted my Makefile. I downloaded a replacement file from GitHub and everything started working. Apparently I had something wrong in the original Makefile. Thx for willing to help

[@ThePrintasaurus]

That is fantastic that you were able to get it going. Send me an email on the audrino and I’ll see what I can do to help you.

[@peterschachte9932]

I found that pkg-config was not installed, so the make flash command didn't work. I had to do 'sudo apt install pkg-config' first, and that seems to have fixed it.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thank you for sharing. I'll add that to the steps in my description for those that do not have that package installed. Everything good to go now?

[@peterschachte9932]

@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the reply. The other issue I ran into was that if you don't update your eddy.cfg with the serial port config before updating your printer.cfg, when you save and restart, klipper reports an error, so I think it would be better to update eddy.cfg first. But after updating eddy.cfg everything is working, with reliable z probing. One weird thing, though, is that its bed mesh isn't fast and smooth the way it looks in the video; it still stops at several mesh points at the start of each print. How can I get the quick mesh I see in the video?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@peterschachte9932 In your Sovol-Macros.cfg under your print start. In mine around line 104 you should see this... M117 Bed Mesh BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 Comment out your BED_MESH line and use this one. BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1 That should allow the rapid scan when you print. I'm putting together some notes on your feedback as well so I can get things added appropriately to help others out. Thanks for sharing!

[@colinmsmall]

Great video. Thanks for making it. I see you have some X1 Carbon’s. I own an X1C and I’ve been considering buying an SV08 for the build volume and the ability to upgrade it and tweak it etc.. but I’m curious, as an X1C owner, how do you compare the print quality between the two? My X1C has been a workhorse with consistent amazing print quality.. it just works over and over again. How do you find the print quality of the SV08 in comparison with or without your upgrades so far. I’m not expecting the user experience Bambu offers of course.. just wondering about the print quality you are getting

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Thanks for watching and that is a great question! The X1C is definitely a level above the SV08 for sure in terms of ease of use and setup. Which is probably the largest difference between say a voron type printer / SV08 voron clone and the Bambu printers. The bambu's just work out of the box, you really don't need a ton of printing experience to have a great printing experience. The SV08 can be a good printer, that offers very similar quality of prints, it just takes some work to get it there. I have the SV08 and a voron 2.4r2 350mm and my Voron prints excellent (But that too is hours of testing and tweaking and upgrades). I will say the upgrades I've done so far inch the SV08 closer to a more expensive Voron 2.4 which is a good thing. If you want something to tinker with, has potential and you need the additional build volume the Sv08 isn't a bad choice. It's on sale now too for black friday / cyber monday so that makes it even more of a bargain. I'm testing some hotends to see if I can further improve print quality. Things are improving greatly, and the side comparison of the same print on the x1c and sv08 is getting harder to tell a difference.

[@colinmsmall]

⁠Thank you! Just knowing that it is possible to get them that close in visual print quality is probably good enough for me to take the plunge.. the price is definitely right. I just found your channel and enjoy these sv08 videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them and share your knowledge and experiences etc.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@colinmsmall No problem at all! There will be plenty more videos on the SV08. I have been using it more and more lately.

[@spsully2582]

​@colinmsmall very different animals. X1c basically needs nothing but only prints so big. Sv08 almost needs upgrading (if not need then definitely would recommend) but here's the real thing. You can make an sv08 print bamboo quality for way less time money and effort than you could dream of getting an x1c to print 350x350x340

[@M4ddon.]

Hello, I am stuck at chapter 5 point 32. If i run TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4 my printhead starts wandering to the right. it sound like one of the steppermotoors is getting engaged just slightly, when it's as far as it can go the sound remiains the ssame. If i then home all it just functions like normal. i have changed the eddy cfg file to the one from the meinline klipper updat (and typed my serial again) but this does not solve the problem. any ideas what this can be? i can't calibrate the eddy like this sadly. many thanks.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

When you run a G0 Z5 does the tool head move to the center of the bed, and nozzle moves to 5mm above the bed? For Step 3 you performed point 19 - 21 did a Save_config, then moved to the bedmesh step 4? What does your bed mesh look like, did it mesh the whole bed?

[@M4ddon.]

@@ThePrintasaurus G0 Z5 moves to center nozle goes to 5 mm, it starts wandering after the TEMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4 command. i did manage to calibrate by disconnecting the two steppermotors when the print head was in the middle. step 3 i did 19-21 i also tried the other method but it kept saing i was out off range. i did the SAVE_CONFIG it did mesh the whole bed it looks like an upside down taco range 0.111 and -0.181. It did a good first layer (after i changed the nosle). when i tried to do a whole print, it started eating the print when making the infill. I have bought it in october 2024 and am mailing a lot with SOVOL. The printer always had problems with first layers and consistency. I did this conversion to hopefully solve all of my problems because SOVOL just does not understand me. I have tried all their sollutions but nothing works i am at wits end. I love the concept of taking the voron 2.4 and making it more accesible but i hate this printer because it took more then 50 hours of my time and it still does not work. (sorry to write all this but now you know the back ground :-))

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@M4ddon. Send me an email at [e-mail] I want to see what I can do to help you get your printer in working order. Sounds like you may have some issues not directly related to the eddy coil. I'll share my config files for everything and see if we can figure out what's going on. Happy to help if I can!

[@cassiqz5471]

Same problem with mine it could maybe be a mistake in the script, i noticed the endpoint match the endpoint of the probe screw (in eddy.cfg) G1 X319 Y176 Z5 but right now i dont figured it out

[@rocky6428]

Mine was an absolute nightmare. Had to redo settings every single print. Not consistent all. Have a cartographer on the way

[@ThePrintasaurus]

That doesn’t sound good!! I have had decent luck with the eddy so far. Interested in your cartographer and how that goes. Did you get the cnc mount too? Are you going to use a stealthburner tool head or go custom with the sv08?

[@rocky6428]

@ThePrintasaurus I haven't decided yet. I'm waiting for it to show up first

[@The_Privateer]

Is there any way to use the Eddy device (any of the Eddy models/interfaces) **with** the existing probe pinout already on the toolhead board?

[@ThePrintasaurus]

BTT is supposed to have a can verizon coming out, they currently have one that works with a nighthawk tool board. EBB36/42. BTT also has a duo out that I can't find any additional information on. That supports usb and can. I'm going to try and order one and see if that is an option. I can report back once I've tested and gotten familiar with the duo version.

[@treyduval5399]

@@ThePrintasaurusI would be interested in what you find out also.

[@LovelyBertha-d6e]

Yes but it's not particularly easy. There's I2C on the probe pin header so you can use that and get 5V from somewhere else. Or a regulator on the 24V of the probe pins. I then had communication issues. There's an errata for the st chip used it the toolhead and the workaround didn't seem to work. I don't know what's going on but basically I got it to work by pulling the pins low at start, then pulsing the clock pin a bunch to shake loose the devices on the bus. The pull ups of the I2C bus of the Eddy was too weak so I changed those. And finally there's no temp sensor so I glued an LM75 to the eddy PCB and the I2C. It works well but I'd say it's not worth the hastle.

[@polycrystallinecandy]

​@ThePrintasaurus SV08 toolhead doesn't have CAN, so not sure what you're talking about

[@polycrystallinecandy]

​@@LovelyBertha-d6eis there really any benefit to the temperature sensor, since you're using the z-endstop for homing anyway? The bed mesh will just be applied to the endstop position, relative to the zero_reference_position

[@spsully2582]

2:30 Finds random plastic thing that is 20mm..... if only we had the technology to make something that is the exact size we need. Would be great if it melted plastic in controlled ammounts in different shapes with comouter controlled precision. I guess maybe some day. Going to measure Legos.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

I approached that with the idea of options. If you have calipers use them, ruler that works too. If you don't feel like holding something there as you micro step a lego duplo happens to be a close enough size. Some could easily make a simple square, rectangle in fusion, solidworks and print it. I figured those that can do that would go straight to that. Thanks for watching, and I appreciate the support! What kind of stuff are you printing? Always curious to see what all everyone is working on?

[@spsully2582]

​@@ThePrintasaurusjust pointing out the irony. Very thorough walk through. Not as flashy as some of the other sites, but your explanation and attention to detail exceeds most of them in my opinion. I print all sorts of stuff. I just got done doing 400 clips for Christmas lights. Yes all 400 fit on the plate. 20x20 grid.

[@spsully2582]

​@@ThePrintasaurusI'm sure you know, but for your viewers... In orca slicer, -right-click on empty build plate -primitive -cube -scale to 20mm uniform No cad needed

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@spsully2582 Wow that is a lot of clips!! I to have a list of things for christmas to print for the kids and wife! I appreciate your opinion as well, that is what I aim to do. I want to make content that is easy to follow and helps people. Eventually I'll have some extra cameras to do all the extra stuff with!

[@joseluismartinez1529]

Alguien a conseguido solucionar el desvío que hace la sonda cuando se posiciona para hacer la medición en la compensación de temperatura? La mía se desplaza hacia la derecha casi al final de la cama y aunque me deja hacer la medición luego me da error diciendo que está fuera de rango cuando intento calibrar

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Did a Google Translate. So you have issues with the temp compensation. If so try and do your first calibration again to set the Z-offset. I had one person with a similar issue with the temp compensation. We figured out that by redoing the initial calibration it allowed the temp compensation to work properly. I apologize if I have translated wrong.

[@joseluismartinez1529]

Gracias por tu respuesta, he estado intentando volver a nivelar la sonda desde 0 varias veces y no hay manera, incluso he cambiado la montura por una diferente pero el resultado siempre es el mismo, el cabezal se sigue desplazando hacia la derecha cuando intento hacer la compensación de calor. Seguiremos intentando

[@ThePrintasaurus]

@@joseluismartinez1529 If you are using the mount I referenced in the video do you have your eddy.cfg setup this way? [probe_eddy_current btt_eddy] sensor_type: ldc1612 z_offset: 2.5 i2c_mcu: eddy i2c_bus: i2c0f #x_offset: -16.5 x_offset: -16 y_offset: 11.5 Also make sure you have your initial distance set correctly for the drive current calibration. 20mm

[@genius23pl]

Ok. Nice tutorial - but in the title you have a description of Eddy Coil - but it's a completely different version and a completely different connection - and a completely different configuration - which you don't talk about.

[@PGXX8]

Have you seen Nadir's video about calibrating Eddy through probing the bed by touching it with the nozzle? kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJLVkH1mjL-AbNUsi=ftzlNLEvCP3F1i6i Looks very promising and eliminates the tedious recalibration of Eddy with a sheet of paper for different temperatures. Maybe you could add this to your video once it is released as it might be a game changer for using Eddy.

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Yes I have, I have been following Nadir's stuff for some time now. I'm interested to see how Eddy Tap comes together.

[@cybergnetwork588]

A 3D printer that still requires a piece of paper......god damn....

[@ThePrintasaurus]

Yes! No paper retirement yet...