Edward Green Shoe Review | Split Toe Derby 👞 | Kirby Allison

In this video Kirby Allison reviews Edward Green's Split Toe Derby. Edward Green is known for making some of the finest leather dress shoes in the world.
Edward Green was a man with a singular passion for shoes. Starting in the industry as a twelve-year-old apprentice, Edward was driven by an ambition to make a better class of shoe. He established his own workshop in Northampton in 1890, gathering around him the town’s most illustrious craftsmen, each an expert in their respective field, and sourced the best materials for them to work with.
“Excellence without compromise,” was his promise and soon his name became associated with the finest English Goodyear Welted footwear, gracing style icons from Ernest Hemingway to Edward, the Duke of Windsor.
Edward Green prides themselves on using the highest quality leathers from the uppers to the soles. The uppers are sewn with the highest-grade French and Italian calfskins on the market. Ensuring that the shoes will not only be incredibly handsome from the start, but also age and patina equally well. The uppers are hand-clicked, or cut out by hand, allowing the clickers to avoid any natural blemishes and use only the best areas of the hide.
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[@countalma9800]

The combination of patterns and colors you're wearing couldn't be any better. Very elegant. Also, the collar shape is ideal. The perfect spread!

[@kxmode]

This is a quality bespoke video. * seal of approval *

[@jrn6471]

I love the pair i have, just the same dark oak colour as in your review! They are shoes that suits most occations, also together with a nice grey suit without tie, accompished with a nice hankie

[@ivantan4388]

Hi Kirby, I am looking at getting either EG Dover in Dark Oak or GG St James II in Vintage Cherry. Which would you recommend? Thanks.

[@edf2953]

Hi Kirby, I love the look of a split toe derby. I’ve been looking for one to add to my collection of dress shoes. I agree with you that the dark oak is striking on this fine shoe. The elevated lacing makes for a somewhat casual look to the shoe. The burnishing of the toe adds a nice complexity to the look of this derby. I was surprised to learn that the it has a single leather outsole as it looks so thick. Did you mention that the outsole is a “JR”? I’m not sure if I am not a fan of the invisible stitching of the leather outsole as it brings glue into the construction process. However, the invisible stitching does add to the aesthetics of the shoe.These are beautiful shoes, however; at Edward Green’s price point (which I am sure is well worth it), is a bit above my budget, as I’m recently retired, I’m afraid that I will defer to a similar split toe derby that Allen Edmond’s carries in its collection. As usual, you did a great job reviewing this fine Edward Green shoe, captured in a very interesting video. Great job...Ed

[@lulolee5325]

If this shoe is your casual shoe, then I believe your gym shoes are derby on rubber soles.

[@crisyorke1328]

LOL. I have a Derby shoes on cushion soles.

[@stevefg3067]

LOL, “Derby Shoes are for intense cardio” ;)

[@ericday4505]

Who has a better all around shoe, Edward Green, or Girling?

[@lulolee5325]

Moreschi and Santoni make the best ready to wear shoes.

[@ianarn]

Edward Green came before and they have the most ‘classic’ designs from the most classic lasts! I don’t think there is anything between them in terms of quality of construction and materials. Generally with Northampton shoes you get what you pay for with the possible exception of Church’s.

[@zoobee]

Northampton is so renowned for its shoemaking trade that their football (soccer) team is known as 'The Cobblers'

[@ianmedium]

Hopefully the Lobb video will be up soon, thanks Kirby.

[@kechen801]

Hi Mr. Kirby Allison. Thank you so much for your general great contents about shoes. I do enjoy watching your many videos, well made and very informative. I just wonder do you have previous experience about Magnanni shoes, somehow I pretty enjoy wearing them, great price values and very elegant and comfortable in general. I just want to know do you own their shoes, and would you mind to make a review video about it, if possible? Thank you again! Ke Chen

[@jc2604]

LOL

[@sleepy4078]

Could you explain to me how they make in general these split toe designs ?

[@davidgibson4411]

I have one pair of Allen Edmond black toe oxfords.What pair do you recommend?! This will be my first Edward Green purchase

[@willarmstrong5832]

Can you do a video on how to wear velvet slippers?

[@johnsantello9731]

What is the UK size equivalent of US Size 7.5 EEE?

[@Richardlizhu]

I might have missed it, but was any part of this shoe beautifully finished?

[@kirbyallison]

Maybe needed some polish....

[@nikolajovicic174]

The society has casualised a lot lately, so I can see how these EG Dover derby shoes can look too formal to some. However, when compared to the EG Chelsea on 202 last, classically rounded Oxford last, these suddenly do look casual .. Personally, I never liked this style, though I see it is highly popular on style forums around the globe.

[@up3371]

I struggle with the fact that such a shoe costs 1200 bugs. Yes, its better than Allen Edmonds and Carmina. But 3-4 times the price? It's hard to argue I find. Maybe I still have to grow into it.....

[@Cue-pv3jg]

Beautiful pair of shoes but I would wear them with a suit since not many wear this particular style of shoe. Brings to mind the old Esquire magazine illustrations from L. Fellows.

[@christiangilberti9834]

Kirby why should I buy this when I can have a sleeker one from St Crispin for the same price?

[@Groudon2510]

I would say EG leather is much more consistent, also rtw wise the finishing level(pattern, stitching, welting, edge and sole) of EG is second to none Yes SC last, pattern and design is gorgeus and they are also handwelted, so it all comes down to personal preference To me English shoemaker is like an acquired taste - very conservative ( except for GG 😆 ), you need to own them and spend time with them to truly get them.

[@mitchgreen-poisson6776]

You should make a scented candle of the saphir shoe polish, just sayin

[@bradle4162]

Are you reviewing this since it's Caleb's dream shoe?

[@kirbyallison]

Brad Le Haha. Unfortunately, we have to return the shoes, so Caleb is out of luck.

[@glenclough9080]

Edward Green or John Lobb (non bespoke)?

[@terminator9099]

Edward Green

[@louishuynh1558]

Can you review patent leather shoes Kirby?👞😊Please thanks

[@iaido01]

i call it lazy leather. not worth buying good patent leather shoes. unless you are gping to use it in a white tie event.

[@alikhalid2888]

What makes Edward Green derby better than Carmina or Crockett Jones? Leather? Sole?

[@terminator9099]

Level of details, and huge gape of leather quality. Carmina is better than CJ handgrade, and one of the best brand at 500 usd.

[@ianarn]

Life Style It is better to avoid them as Tom Ford is essentially a fashion brand and Church’s is now controlled by Prada so a lot of money is just going on the marketing and brand! The Church family bought Cheney bootmakers so buy them if you want some of the old Church’s quality.

[@lachyt5247]

@@terminator9099 I know this is a 4 year old comment, but that is such nonsense. C&J Handgrade leather is the same quality as EG and G&G, first grade vegtanned from Hass. The exception is C&J handgrade shoes get 4-6 shoes per hide, whereas EG gets 2-3, so EG is more selective and handclicks their hides thus higher price and better consistency/quality overall. Carmina is a much cheaper, lower grade leather. Carmina makes very nice shoes at a very reasonable pricepoint but not at the level of C&J handgrade and certainly not EG. Carmina RTW shoes simply could not use top tier leather at their price point without making a loss on every pair.

[@terminator9099]

@@lachyt5247 CJ is grade 2B and 2C, EG is 1B and 1C

[@terminator9099]

@@lachyt5247 also green use many different tanneries

[@louisholland3057]

Just ordered a pair in nightshade. Im feeling like a kid waiting for christmas

[@marquepadley2715]

Beautiful shoes,

[@lostinthepages2409]

Kirby I would love hear your opinion on John Lobb shoes

[@glenclough9080]

John Lobb bespoke I’d say are considered to be the best shoes in the world

[@russ9921]

Glen Clough Nope. They do not provide a trial shoe, nor trees in the price, and the designs are very traditional and old fashioned. Very few measurements taken compared to other bespoke makers (the shoes killed me and had to be remade). Many of the Lobb shoes are sent to outworkers, not made in house. Very, very expensive (£750 extra just for the shoe trees,) and they are in my view resting on past laurels. Both I and a friend had three bespoke pairs made between us, the fit was not as good as expected and we came away disillusioned. There are enough mugs around who will no doubt still think Lobb are the best. But from now on give me Gaziano & Girling.

[@glenclough9080]

Russ shocked to hear that, I’ve never had a pair made myself..mostly I hear Edward Green are producing better shoes with more contemporary styles these days but I just assumed Lobb are still the best, in your case they certainly aren’t

[@russ9921]

Glen Clough Edward Green don’t do bespoke, but they do make very good shoes indeed. I predict that after the Duke of Edinburgh passes and given Prince Charles has given a warrant to other shoemakers (Crockett & Jones) that Lobb will lose all their Royal warrants in a few years time. I heard a rumour from a good source that Prince Charles thought the Lobb fees preposterous, but whether that is true I don’t know. It’s telling however that he wore C & J to the last Royal wedding, and not a pair of Lobb.

[@emmanuelgeraldo5337]

Great

[@maddogsblues9206]

Great video!

[@thesceptic1018]

Kirby, did you say they don’t have double leather soles? I believe they do.

[@kirbyallison]

the sceptic I don’t! But I’m having a pair made MTO that you guys will learn about later!

[@atacsk1983]

@@kirbyallison the model presented here (which is RTW I believe) has tapered double leather sole for sure. it's their basic configuration with dover.

[@terminator9099]

this one is with a very thick sole, it is considered double sole by EG, but is almost as thick as a triple

[@crisyorke1328]

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE by GG is my favorite.

[@kirbyallison]

Cris Yorke Greet shoe!

[@guerreiroitaliano6952]

👍🏻!

[@ericday4505]

That is not a casual shoe.

[@jw7692]

Please do a review of this monstrosity: www.harryrosen.com/en/footwear/dress-shoes/thom-browne/longwing-brogues/p/20045067 They're over $1000! What the actual fuck!?!?

[@jrlee1031]

This shoe from EG can be bought at almost the same quality with a Sons Of Henrey shoes.

[@iaido01]

you must be new to shoes. leather quality/build quality/handwork/attention to detail/comfort. i was like you 8 years ago. until i bought my first Crockett and jones and 1 year later the edwars green galway. dude their is a major difference in quality. it is like comparing the mercedes S class to a C class

[@lionelgarcia2386]

Very nice crafted shoes. But Blucher shoes are just not relevant dress shoes. Or for that matter a regular Derby. Notwithstanding the price or who makes them. And every version of split toes just look bad and really detract and distract an outfit. To me, if you're wearing dress shoes its for a reason. Either go with an Oxford for formal dress, or an Oxford or Derby brogue ( prefer Oxford) to dress up a more casual look. Casual dress shoes fall into an unnecessary no-man's land of this area, just like dress shoes with sneaker soles - they're a solution looking for a problem that doesn't or shouldn't exist - so don’t bother. There's no scenario when I'd use these Bluchers to "dress down" a dressy outfit, or "kind of” dress up a casual outfit with “kind of” more casual dress shoes. I know some guys like them for whatever reason. But go all in and the entire outfit will look much better.

[@TobiasTheWolf]

I’m sorry but if you describe mens shoes as having an elegant design; I’m out.

[@jc2604]

Go back to your Nikes.

[@福島幹夫-x9j]

Please Japanese Word

[@stuartbritton7408]

You talk like a machine.