EEG-164 Motor replacement(1/2)

[@rainwater101690]

So I'm having an issue with the same fryer. It fills slowly. When it starts filling its like its not sealing.. but then it catches prime in a couple of minutes and starts filling. I inspected the plumbing and found that someone had bypasses the high pressure check valve. I assumed the valve was stuck open and they didn't want to replace it. So I replaced the valve and connected everything properly. Now it won't fill at all. Its not even pulling out of the pan. I bypassed it again and it fills. What'sthe deal?

[@cthcth6087]

Your missing a reses washer in your seal kit

[@TheFinney12345]

What's the part number for the pump rebuild kit? The rollers and o-ring? I've got a pump motor that runs but has very poor flow. Vibrates like crazy and I'm pretty sure I can hear the seal tumbling around inside the pump. I can find the seal kit but not the rollers or pump head o-ring. Thanks for the help!

[@mikewood5473]

from what my lead tech told me.. its best to just buy a brand new pump.. the price difference isnt worth the hastle...

[@jackschissler255]

You would think when designers make these, they would making replacements like the pump in a easy place (like in the back or off the side). Having these right under the grease or near the grease will short it’s life.

[@thefryerguy5982]

Hey! That sounds like an engineer thing. Why on earth would they want to hear common sense stuff like that. You're just a little old tech, what do you know? That's what I imagine they would say to us at least. On a more serious note, I find the biggest issue for these pump and motors on any brand usually stems from letting the units run too long and it just pumps air. That tends to wear out the seal in the pump heads and that allows oil to leak into the motor. Most of these motors that sit above the filter pans usually has 2 lays of protection from the oil ( except for the pressure fryers.) The shelf the motor sits on blocks a good portion of any steam from the oil, and the filter pan cover as well. So oil migration isn't as bad as it could be. Now i have seen pump and motors coated in dried oil, but that took years, before the motors went bad.

[@isaiasperez6283]

I’m a in-house tech at McDonalds Love working with Henny Penny

[@romantressler4480]

Isaias Perez hey, luckily the EEE and EEG (Evolution Elite) are very similar to the LOV fryers. If you have any issues feel free to ask.

[@mikewood5473]

LOL me too brother.. hahha

[@rocker8692]

Looks greasy

[@jmisto]

Thanks for the great video. I'm not a tech but I work on my own HP fryers at my restaurants and this was a big help. Good idea not attaching that first triangle bracket to allow the oil to drip out if the seal goes bad. You should patent a part for that and sell it back to HP!

[@thefryerguy5982]

well...I would, but they have recently updated their pump heads and they no longer have those style pump heads. So no more covers! So no matter what happens, oil will leak right into the motor!

[@joedirt978]

Hey man working with a cfe 500 would bad rollers cause it to pump weak? I had to prime it (original pump) and it seems like it’s pumping weak all the plumbing is free of debris should I remove pump? I checked the rollers and some are kinda flattened on sides on some

[@cthcth6087]

Yes rollers must be round an white if their colored brown an square their bad

[@xaivergb]

Thanks for the video, two questions, 1) Why not pull the whole motor assembly out? When I change them I find it easier to have the whole thing in my hands to work on. 2) Why did you not prime the pump before you started it?

[@thefryerguy5982]

In this video I did remove the entire pump and motor assembly. There is a part 2 to this video. Also as for priming the pump before I install it, I generally don't get enough oil in the pump to get a Vacuum. So o cheat, and when it is running (if there is no suction) will crack open the hose (just a little)and let the air out and, yes, oil will spray out. But not enough to cause any damage, if you stop the motor fast enough or close the line. Now, henny penny has since changed the pump and motor assembly and is no longer like this. The assembly is a little bigger and no longer had a seal kit.

[@xaivergb]

@@thefryerguy5982 yes that is true for some of the units makes it easier in a way to just change everything put at once. Was talking about the shelf the motor sits on. The way I get it primed is to get some oil on a cup and poor it in after the motor is reassembled. Glad to see the videos I can show my wife some of the things I get the joy of seeing everyday.

[@thefryerguy5982]

@@xaivergb I understand the idea of pouring oil in the pump once it's assembled, If that works for you, go for it. As for removing the shelf, I dont recommended doing that. Even Henny Penny doesn't recommend that, to get those rods back in place is a nightmare. To remove and replace a pump and motor the way I do it, takes me less than an hour to do. But if that works for you, then keep on doing it. I know other techs who also do the same, I usually have to go out later and replace those rods because they bent them, and then the motor doesn't sit right and then it wont line up properly and have terrible suction. But if you can manage to do that without bending those rods (or pins) have at it amigo!

[@raymondmantle9672]

How do you prime the pump on a HP500c fryer

[@thefryerguy5982]

Only if it needs it. But it's the same as any other HP fryer. Just crack open the discharge side and let the pump push the air out and let some oil come through, turn the pump off or tighten it quickly and you are set. and you are set.

[@mikewood5473]

manually put oil in the pump through the brass fittings.. until its filled then hook it up.. i used a manual pump with a hose to do it... you need to manually prime it to function... i figured it out the hard way

[@DaCrunkwizard]

Hey Just Subbed. Thanks for the videos