It looks like the air creeped under the polarizing filter, oxidizing the silver layer. In the center oval, more or less where the lcd pressure kept the two layers pressed together, keeping the air(and thus the oxigen) out.
@gweilo88883 жыл бұрын
Yep, this seems highly likely, perhaps in tandem with sunlight damaging the adhesive layer over time and allowing air to make its way in there in the first place. As an aside, Dave says "You can design LCDs so you don't have black segments, you have a black background with a white segment or whatever". This used to be the first thing I'd do with my calculators as a kid in the 80s -- take them apart, flip the unbonded polarizing material and hey presto, black background with white letters.
@allensmithphotography3 жыл бұрын
@@gweilo8888 it doesn't need degraded adhesive. Just the exposed edge of the silvered layer is enough. The oxidation will creep through the material. You get similar with old photographs where the edges weren't sealed fully.
@gweilo88883 жыл бұрын
@@allensmithphotography The only reason I made that assumption is because otherwise they'd *all* be like this. I have numerous products of similar age whose LCDs haven't degraded in this manner.
@allensmithphotography3 жыл бұрын
@@gweilo8888 and that's very true that not every LCD of this type doesn't have this issue, just like not every mirror degrades the same way. It could have been that LCD didn't get as good of an edge seal. I know before I used photographs but mirrors do the same thing over time. And just as you mention not every mirror degrades to the same extent as every other just as the LCDs in this discussion
@juskim3 жыл бұрын
Someone: "Tell me you're experienced without saying a word." Dave: *Begins to show an entire collection of multimeters dating all the way back to the Roman ages
@andrewbancroft61743 жыл бұрын
Yeah ha ha wish my multimeter bin was that full
@WacKEDmaN3 жыл бұрын
the adhesive they use to stick the polarising layer eats into the foil with UV activation... nice collection of meters!
@WizardTim3 жыл бұрын
Any half decent electronics engineer should know this is the number one symptom of an LCD that is low on magic blue smoke, disappointed you ruined it instead of refilling it but at the very least it was interesting to see that your hack did kind of work, it was at least a cheap fix, magic smoke can be very expensive sometimes.
@gusmartin60533 жыл бұрын
Zebra strips work great to repair the Fluke 120 series scopemeter LCS’s. Only works to fix the horizontal lines. Just remove the hot bar contacts and replace them with an appropriately sized zebra strip. I used kapton tape pulled tightly from the top LCD glass to the PCB in order to keep pressure on the the zebra strip. Alignment is tricky though. I had to message the zebra strip to one side or the other in order to get the contacts aligned due to the fine lead pitch on these displays.
@danmackintosh63253 жыл бұрын
I used to mess with LCD's a lot as a kid (even tempts me now, as a grown kid!), flipping the polarising film to make a negative display on old watches and stuff like that. Just seemed super cool back then how you could make such a huge difference to the look of an old Casio knockoff just with a steady hand and no money in.
@fabimre3 жыл бұрын
I am a bit of a DIY'er and laid my own laminate floor panels. For the Underfloor I used adhesive Aluminium tape, ultra smooth and reclective. That would be suitable!
@iamdarkyoshi3 жыл бұрын
Well now I'd be quite interested to see a troubleshooting session with the other meter, if nothing else just to see a damage report of what happens when you blow the ass out of it
@isosmxy3 жыл бұрын
As an EE/MSE person in microelectronic Fab this reminds me of making a silver mirror with silver nitrate. To demonstrate the Tollen's reagent, you can crash silver out of silver nitrate and make mirrors! I did this in highschool chemisty, but my beaker is basically brown now. I don't know if it's an oxidative state (a patina) or somehow it form a nitrate in atmospheric conditons (the nitrogen tripple bond is >9 eV).
@rmd65023 жыл бұрын
Put a light source behind the backless LCD and make a projection meter!
@alexisdrosopoulos3 жыл бұрын
I believe that this happened to the adhesive due to exposure to UV by sunlight. It's a common point of failure for old nintendo gameboys for example
@marcriendeau56512 жыл бұрын
I was trying to remember where I have seen it before. Gameboy.
@jonsnell47513 жыл бұрын
Good to hear the word Zebra pronounced properly.
@EEVblog3 жыл бұрын
None of the zeebra rubbish.
@Standing-Wave3 жыл бұрын
Having Mrs. EEVblog explain the discolouration would be super interesting, along with why some plastics in older gear turns yellow.
@douglas2lee929 Жыл бұрын
Bromine?
@casperhito3 жыл бұрын
The clear outline segments look pretty cool.
@excavatoree3 жыл бұрын
Brings a tear to the eye. I've been down that road. I'll mention that Fluke did change to the clear windows with no model designation, with the designation moving to the LCD surround, but they had retrofit kits for the older meters with a printed LCD surround and clear window. After installing the new surround, one could purchase a new window when necessary. Sadly, Fluke doesn't offer these anymore, but most just re-polish existing windows with good results. I'll also mention that I've only had to change a handful of zebra strips, but it's important to put them in the way they came out if the contacts are the raised, solder type. These differ in height, and the connector takes a permanent "set" and won't make good contact if placed in a different location or orientation. At least one crazy person has had to try all 8 combinations (as it's obvious which side is toward the LCD0 when he forgot where they went and in what orientation.
@HEPATCA2 жыл бұрын
As an alternative to replacing the squished zebra strip, maybe add a bit of solder to the PCB pads (which look like they're already covered with a layer of solder, HASL finish). The addition of a thin layer of solder would change the topography to deal with the "set" and the added thickness would slightly compress the strip, mayb resulting in an improved contact.
@monkshoodtv3 жыл бұрын
Bit of mucking about. But how about using Kitchen foil as a silver backing with a bit of polarising film. Held together with some photograph mounting adhesive. The polarising film can easily be obtained from any lighting outlet especially Film and TV suppliers where it's a dime a meter. Just for fun.
@izimsi3 жыл бұрын
"the alignment does not matter", but every time I tried removing an LCD with a zebra strip, some of segments were then missing. Maybe it just got dirty, but I don't think I've ever managed to reinstall it properly.
@KarlBaron3 жыл бұрын
Even when Dave puts it together at 9:50 it's messed up and missing at least one segment
@excavatoree3 жыл бұрын
If I don't need to replace an LCD, I leave the strips connected to the LCD. I've never had this problem with the 70 series, but the Fluke 10 series LCD contacts were fragile and were known to lift/get destroyed. Orientation is important, as the old boards had solder "blobs" of varying height and width, and they'd take a permanent "set" and not make good contact if placed incorrectly. I've been known to have to try all 8 combinations when I forgot how they went.
@treelineresearch33873 жыл бұрын
The only time I've had success reassembling zebra strip LCDs is if I clean all the pads and ITO display contacts with high proof iso before reassembly and make sure the bezel/housing that holds the sandwich together is as tight as I can get it. Any little bit of dust or shmoo on the contacts will leave a dead driver, and if it's not down tight there will be whole spans of dead segments.
@pyromen3213 жыл бұрын
@@treelineresearch3387 yep, 99% ipa makes zebra strips a breeze!
@danmackintosh63253 жыл бұрын
@@pyromen321 another vote for the IPA here, wish I'd known that as a kid messing with old digital clocks etc, could've saved lots of frustration... (take away from this, kids, turning to alcohol IS the answer sometimes)
@dentakuweb3 жыл бұрын
That was both informative and a repair which is what people like of course. Years ago I didn't know how zebra strips worked then I looked at one closely and figured it out.
@MikeB_UK3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Alibaba and other sell reflective film and sheet polarizer for LCDs. I have seen people mod LCD watch displays with this stuff. You could likely fix the original display with some. Seems pretty cheap.
@ertyuiiknbvcx3 жыл бұрын
Perhaps a bright white piece of paper or dual layer paper will reflect even more light than the stock greyish silver and be even more high contrast? Try it :) In gardening plants they discuss if mylar, white paint or aluminum foil is the best light reflector. I think pearl white paint on a plastic plate background might look beautiful. And one could make a mold and cast a new pearl white rubber shock protector and you get a iFluke..? Oh no, what have i done.. started a contest of who has the best modded Fluke? :)
@truckerallikatuk3 жыл бұрын
You'd need to bodge in some contacts for the rotary switch, probably. As well as populating the missing parts.
@lookupfromdownunder52183 жыл бұрын
I was in component level repair with Telstra 20 years. We had this prob with our Flukes. Fluke said it is because these are not Tropical Displays, which we need in Australia. They supplied us with replacement displays. Regards Norm in Sydney......
@thomasives75603 жыл бұрын
Pick up one of those dumpster monitors and steal the polarizer out of it - many of them have a large, loose sheet of polarizer film. Alternatively, get some GameBoy polarizing film from eBay - you can get loads of it for a few bucks. Or just wear polarized sunglasses!
@Richardincancale3 жыл бұрын
Try some polarising film from an old lcd monitor cut to shape?
@EEVblog3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, was thinking of that, and I kept a big sheet of it, but I think it got lost or tossed in the move.
@SeanBZA3 жыл бұрын
@@EEVblog There is a Samsung donor LCD panel in the room of surprises though, perfect, as you have more than one chance of getting a big enough film section.
@calidoscopio15153 жыл бұрын
You can also use an old TV LCD that has a broken glass, it can peel off the layers of polarizing film and successfully repair a damaged polarizer, I hope you can read this Dave, greetings from Mexico.
@norcal7153 жыл бұрын
I have had to add an extra layer of rubber (black electrical tape) to the LCD in some cases to get to conductive rubber strips to make good connections to the LCD in past years.
@Kirillissimus3 жыл бұрын
You could turn the meter into a special one for measuring secret voltages inside secret circuits. Just remove all the polarizing films from the LCD, stick a piece of white paper to the back and wear polarizing glasses.
@volvo093 жыл бұрын
I remember doing that as a kid with calculator and sunglasses. The "magic" calculator.
@colejohnson663 жыл бұрын
I remember seeing videos on KZbin about doing that to a computer monitor for maximum privacy. Basically take the polarizing filter and stick it where eyeglass lenses would go. Your monitor will then appear bright white without the glasses (and correct angle)
@BM-jy6cb3 жыл бұрын
Sounds like a perfect magical meter for the magical audiophile industry!
@leeselectronicwidgets3 жыл бұрын
Bringing back nightmares with zebra strips, when I used to take apart my LCD watches in the 80s when I was really young, and had to hide the inevitable broken segments from my parents!
@wobblysauce3 жыл бұрын
Foul works but it aren't just the lack of polarizer, but the layer thickness/flatness to the LCD screen.
@ztechrepairs3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! Always entertaining and educational!
@LetsPlayKeldeo3 жыл бұрын
Id love to see a repair of the other one !
@donaldasayers3 жыл бұрын
I drove over my 70 series with the car, I even thought to myself; don't leave it there you'll drive over it. It still worked but the display was cracked, so I phoned Fluke for parts, they said "...and it still works? Can we have it for our display?" "No you can't! Sorry." They sold me a new display. Getting a new display for and old series 10 was more difficult.
@note2tee3 жыл бұрын
You can just put 1 or 2 piece of white paper as backing, it will look better
@bsekisser3 жыл бұрын
That was my thinking too.
@Palmtop_User Жыл бұрын
I think itd be kinda neat to print custom designs on the paper. Itd be like wallpapers. Practical no, but pretty neat
@punker4Real3 жыл бұрын
17:35 that is the same one from EEVblog #84 - High Energy Multimeter Destruction@9:13
@miguelangelsimonfernandez54983 жыл бұрын
I have a mint Fluke 75 and its a completely different beast. Excellent quality
@mrbmp093 жыл бұрын
Use silver spray paint on the back of the LCD
@rayperigo55753 жыл бұрын
This is exactly what we used to to back in the late 80's. Taped off the edges, and sprayed them with a few coats of aluminum paint Polarizing film on the front. These were for outdoor instruments, so we would glue ceramic heaters on the back so the display worked in the cold
@sprybug3 жыл бұрын
Gotta say that outline look is pretty cool. Not very functional, but still cool none-the-less!
@fubaralakbar68003 жыл бұрын
Those outlined digits would look cool on a watch.
@hermannschaefer47773 жыл бұрын
I still use a SOAR 5430 as my standard bench multimeter, they were great.
@mcconkeyb3 жыл бұрын
Your age is showing there, Dave! You don't need to replace the back of the meter to fix the stripped screws, you need to replace the front case, as that is where the threaded part is...
@SteveHodge3 жыл бұрын
Was thinking the same.
@EEVblog3 жыл бұрын
D'oh
@dgoulian Жыл бұрын
Just an asside, you were missing some segments because of degraded elastomeric strips. They sell replacement strips for about $20, However, I’ve fixed two Fluke displays recently by simply cleaning the edges with isopropyl alcohol. Anyway, great video as always!
@sebastianweinert38023 жыл бұрын
You totally missed an opportunity here. Getting a new background polarizer on and coating the backside with a mixture of luminous and neon pigments wold have been the first stage of upgrade techporn and could have ended in engineers drool by 3D printing a new stand to fit an extra tritium light with a cadmium sheet as back reflector behind the upgraded LCD :P Making things better than they were before isn't just a sport it's a way of life. We're a lot of Tim Taylors out here ;)
@king_wing343 жыл бұрын
9:22 thats epic! id say, cool idea to make it look cool, lol tin foil adds cool look!
@Torogol853 жыл бұрын
This unit is a venerable Fluke 23 series 1. I own a Fluke 21 series II and is perfectly operational
@Flying0Dismount3 жыл бұрын
Since we're discussing our first digital multimeters and with the recent passing of Sir Clive, it reminded me that my first digital multimeter was an LED Sinclair multimeter.. I think I still have it somewhere in a box in my own bunker...
@EEVblog3 жыл бұрын
I got two of them out of my other box of multimeters!
@jugularSignal3 жыл бұрын
Forgot to comment on the first video, but great comment as always Dave. Love DMM videos. Addendum: I appreciate the part number on the LCD starts with JF
@lloydtshare3 жыл бұрын
I had to hack in a modern lcd in a fluke 8010A couldn't get hold of any replacements
@testchannelplsignore85093 жыл бұрын
So cool seeing stuff I work on being shown on youtube lol.
@harshbarj3 жыл бұрын
Looks like simple oxidation. I see the same thing with old glass negatives I work with at the library. After a few decades even the best seal will still allow enough oxygen to enter to start the process.
@volvo093 жыл бұрын
Parts pile to the rescue!
@derstrom83 жыл бұрын
I learned something about zebra strips today!
@electronicengineer3 жыл бұрын
The DMM was left in direct sunlight for an extended period of time, and actually got "cooked" by the UV rays of the sun. Very common failure. Fred
@beaker20003 жыл бұрын
You can get replacement polarizing film and you just have to figure out what angle to cut the rectangle out and it works great..
@Tuttomenui3 жыл бұрын
The failure of the reflective is probably similar to the failure that bullet proof glass has after years. Bullet proof glass(at least the old stuff) becomes cloudy and loses its transparency. Has to do with the adhesives used to laminate the glass.
@MrMaxeemum3 жыл бұрын
If the resistor is open how could you have burned yourself on it? It would not have produced any heat as it is open therefore no current should have been passing.
@SeanBZA3 жыл бұрын
Going to guess the analogue front end has shorted a power rail to the input, and the shorted MOV is allowing the input to be hard connected to ground, thus the low value resistor there is passing 9V to ground, and heating up. Likely the resistor was just some random one, or got the snot blown out of it, so it shorted out from burn debris to around 100R.
@DrB19003 жыл бұрын
The light hitting the glass at an angle slightly polarizes it, that's why it works better there.
@ronliebermann3 жыл бұрын
I saw a story about a guy who removes the LCD panels from pregnancy tests. Then he makes tiny video games. He plays Doom on a pregnancy test. So you could use one of those panels for this repair, you’ll just have to squint a little.
@mattmoreira2103 жыл бұрын
19:18 If you look closely, you can see that the “new” LCD’s backing is starting to oxidize, too.
@bsodmike3 жыл бұрын
I have a sorta sad story regarding the Fluke 89 that served me well for over a decade, right though two engineering degrees as well. I made the silly mistake of sending it back to Fluke Singapore to replace the dying LCD and they wrote back saying since the unit it no longer produced they would let me buy a replacement. The cost to DHL it back was almost half the cost of a new one so they disposed of it. Blimey! Never do that, be wiser and fix it yourself. I would never have sent it if I knew this would happen. Bummer!
@Soapy5553 жыл бұрын
It's kind of them to allow you to buy a replacement meter
@bsodmike3 жыл бұрын
@@Soapy555 right? Haha!
@bsodmike3 жыл бұрын
@@Soapy555 their phrasing in their email was exactly that. They’ll “let me”. Sheesh!
@Soapy5553 жыл бұрын
@@bsodmike Yeah, I assumed that's probably how they worded it RIP Fluke 89 - you will be sorely missed
@RobTheSquire3 жыл бұрын
I dare say some aluminium tape or something would work with some double sided tape and a replacement polarizer off a donor or ebay
@miguelangelsimonfernandez54983 жыл бұрын
1/4W and so hot seems a lot of current is flowing when it's on . The probable cause of failure of the original resistor is somewhere else and its worrying
@Torogol853 жыл бұрын
I had a problem with the display of a chinesium meter. It's reflector oxidized and I stripped off the whole lot of films from the screen. Now the unit is operational again, but it's LCD suffers from the Salazar's Curse
@KaFFi3N3 жыл бұрын
Hi Dave love the repair videos would like to see if you could populate the series 2 and get it working as like the other one think that would make and interesting video
@junkerzn73123 жыл бұрын
The one and only time I ever removed an LCD, I could never get all the contacts to contact again when I tried to put it back together. It never worked properly again :-( -Matt
@cads8773 жыл бұрын
fluked it !
@ableite3 жыл бұрын
The silver coating oxidized. Its like a mirror. I have never found a perfect replacement for it online.
@101Gabriel_M.3 жыл бұрын
It's happens because the glue not UV resistant between the silver mirror tape and the LCD glass... Just UV tolerant until them reached limits... Durring a lifetime normal use, indoor a lab or workshop get nothing, but durring outdoor using also get just some exposure... But if you leave one or more days long on a direct summer sunlight... Yeah... It's like 20y long normal everydays exposure for it, what is definitely abnormal :) Same things happened with oldschool handy tetris games, gameboys, or just a digital nightstand clocks what directly got the mornin' light :) Also the UV light cause heat, heat generates not just oxidation but chemical gas as well, and of course the glue getting liquid again and deforming the homogeneity of layer thickness and casue these "fancy" effect....
@FennecTECH3 жыл бұрын
You need to clean the adhesive off the back of the lcd
@plasmar13 жыл бұрын
now I dunno if I still have em but I had a box of a half dozen parts of these:P(military throw away material)
@jtcustomknives3 жыл бұрын
Looking through all your videos on soldering stations and I don’t see any on induction stations like the hakko FX-100 or the metcal MX. would love to see you do a video on that technology
@atkelar3 жыл бұрын
It does look like "water ingress" from the shape and distribution of the discoloring. I don't think that it's related to sunlight as such; if so, it would be more uniform. Maybe UV makes the process faster or more pronounced, but it clearly is "eating into" the display from the edges in, so something in the air (gas or moisture) or direct exposure to water is my bet. 🤔
@focusfrenzy97593 жыл бұрын
don't forget the rare red LCD!
@tgfcujhb75833 жыл бұрын
Try it with white paper 👍
@zer0b0t3 жыл бұрын
could try reflective paint or tape, the types used to reflect at night
@Rorschach10243 жыл бұрын
Looks like it may have spent a lot of time in a corrosive atmosphere, like maybe at a sewage treatment plant or around sulfuric lead acid batteries.
@SidneyCritic3 жыл бұрын
Al-foil has a shinny side, but I would go for a chip packet inner foil.
@sincerelyyours75383 жыл бұрын
A golden opportunity missed to fix it with a piece of bubble gum wrap instead of aluminum foil. More reflective, fewer creases. Would have given new meaning to the expression "fixed with gum and baling wire!" I'd have also fixed the cracked bezel with a bit of black CA glue just because I'm OCD that way.
@Rorschach10243 жыл бұрын
Bet that holster will fit too.
@McTroyd3 жыл бұрын
Even if that '70 isn't fixable, it might be interesting to try swapping the ASICs to see if those still work. Could be worth a pretty penny, since they're made of pure unobtainium.
@St0RM333 жыл бұрын
I have an old electronic unit with such type of lcd and it became full blackened in some spots from exposure to the sun in years; can anyone recommend specific materials to fix it?
@HEPATCA2 жыл бұрын
LCD issues aside, that 23 still seems like a sick puppy, display jumping around between negative ohms and "OL". Was it really that sensitive to touch? I'm working on a similar vintage 77 that's acting the same way... really jumpy and flakey even after fixing the 1k fusible resistor. I'll look at replacing some of the caps next.
@pr0engineer8733 жыл бұрын
Entirely possible the structure of the LCD itself and the crystaline structure is acting like a freznel lens, and causing the silverised coating to oxidise. If I was to have a guess.
@dragonslayerornstein3873 жыл бұрын
The burn pattern suggests such, you might be correct, or maybe it was Oxygen leaking in. Awesome assessment Data!
@PlasmaHH3 жыл бұрын
likely oxidation, or if its silver based, sulphur. it diffuses usually through the glue
@SeanBZA3 жыл бұрын
Aluminium sputtered foil on polyester sheet, the uncut edges slowly diffuse oxygen through, and create the ring of oxide as it slowly diffuses through from the cut edge.
@tullgutten3 жыл бұрын
Now use polarized sunglasses and the screen gets better 😉 On my old phone i remover one polarizer layer and then you could only see the screen with polarized glasses or film in fromt of it
@TrickyNekro3 жыл бұрын
The polarizers back and front are at a 45 degree angle, or else you wouldn't be able to see anything from the reflective surface, plus are like that to enhance contrast. But I'm going from the top of my head here so check!
@martinmckee53333 жыл бұрын
I'd buy that. The polarizer broke cleanly at 45 degrees when he removed it.
@TrickyNekro3 жыл бұрын
@@martinmckee5333 I don't know how, or rather can't remember, how they are constructed, maybe has something to do maybe not. Probably that's some kind of plasticized crystal, it's not irrational to think that mechanical properties somehow match optical ones, either vertically or horizontally to the optical axis.
@martinmckee53333 жыл бұрын
@@TrickyNekro it could be that or it could be a simple scribbed polarizer.
@TrickyNekro3 жыл бұрын
@@martinmckee5333 you mean wire grid polarizers?
@jenniferwhitewolf37843 жыл бұрын
I had an LCD go bad in a Fluke 8050A-01... sad to see it slowly fade, and bleed. Naturally, Fluke had no spares, and the otherwise perfectly operating meter with dB math and battery option became junk.
@pnjunction56893 жыл бұрын
I think you can replace the LCD with an LED display, if I remember correctly. There was some information about this on the internet somewhere. Damn, now that I think about it...where is my Fluke 8050. Haven't seen it since I moved! Grr!
@AliensInc.3 жыл бұрын
Whenever I tried to reassamble a LCD with these zebrastrips, I always miss some segment. I tried this on many screens over the years and still not one works perfect after disassamble. So I kinda hate 'em :P
@greypatch8855 Жыл бұрын
i dont thing there is the space is there, im curious about modding a backlight into it???
@WreckDiver993 жыл бұрын
Dave, I have a Fluke 87 True RMS meter, it's 30 years old. Within two years of owning it, the LCD Screen started having fading issues where some of the digits would just start to "disappear". I contacted Fluke way back then, and they said "Oh, that needs a repair, it is $x plus shipping to/from us". The cost of the repair was actually MORE than the cost of a new meter (my cost via a supplier discount I could obtain). I obviously declined, and cracked the case, pulled the screen out and reset it. Put it back together and Robert is your mother's brother...IT WORKED. Well...for about a month. Every few weeks to a month I have to tear the meter apart, pull the LCD off and re-set it back into the housing. Any ideas of how I can PERMANENTLY fix this? I really don't want to buy a new meter since this one works perfectly except for the PITA of resetting the LCD every few weeks.
@excavatoree3 жыл бұрын
You may need the plastic piece that holds the LCD in. The plastic fingers get weak, and often break off as well. I apologize, but I can't find any of the ones I have, and I can't find the part number. I'll edit this reply if I find it. EDIT: P/N is 619632 for all 87s except the IV and V. I'm not sure if this part is still available from Fluke. Even though it's not WrekDiver99's problem, other's reading this may need one. There were some e-bay sellers selling these, but it's been a while since I searched. Other possible problems are the contacts on the PCB. If they are METAL, you can clean them with an ordinary pencil eraser, then some quality contact cleaner to get the residue off. Another possibility is the front LCD surround - if it cracks like Dave's did (yes, I've cracked many as well) it won't work. I recommend visiting the EEVBLOG forum, there are people who are very good at fixing meters there who may have better/more advice.
@EEVblog3 жыл бұрын
That should have been covered under warranty.
@WreckDiver993 жыл бұрын
@EEVblog...you're a funny Aussie Dave. One would think so, but Fluke stated my issue sounded like "normal wear and tear" which is "not covered under the limited warranty" It is what it is. I lost a lot of respect for Fluke when I got that note back stating it would be between $175 and $200 USD to "repair" my meter. I paid around $180 for that meter via the supplier and quantity discount (all of us jumped at the price discount we had gotten so as a whole over 50 were bought by the engineers and electricians. Back then though, that was nearly a weeks salary after taxes (I wasn't making squat as an engineer in 1991...all of $10/hr)... It is what it is...I just pop the cover and move on.
@WreckDiver993 жыл бұрын
@@excavatoree So it's all intact, all of it. I will look to see if it is dirty, and I'll clean the contact points as well. The cover snaps firmly in place, and it works for a good 3 to 4 weeks, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter before I have to do it again. I might jump into the forums (I do not like forums, 17 million discussions going on at once and you can't find what you're looking for (with the search features) and then you ask the question and get jumped on by 100 people screaming "USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION IDIOT"...so...yea...not sure if I will or won't go there...LOL.
@excavatoree3 жыл бұрын
@@WreckDiver99 Are your LCD contacts (on the PCB) gold, solder, or the carbon type?
@normanlaw81913 жыл бұрын
Hello David, Great videos! I am particularly interested as I too have a Fluke 73. It picked a fight with the concrete floor but the floor won, so the casing is in pieces. If you have no further use of the Fluke 77 casing, would you be interested in selling it? BTW, how do you send PM with KZbin? Haha, have a great day.
@4dirt2racer03 жыл бұрын
white paper would work behind the lcd, i feel like iv used a business card before i cant remember what it was on tho
@alexkindl8613 жыл бұрын
Might be interesting to modify it to have an electroluminescent backlight, just for kicks. Timex / Fluke crossover episode.
@comettoPL3 жыл бұрын
It was caused probably by soldering fumes.
@julianreverse3 жыл бұрын
The aluminium foil looks like aluminum foil to me! The good German aluminium foil is flat without any embossings.
@danmackintosh63253 жыл бұрын
The cheap British stuff also...
@sudazima3 жыл бұрын
its silver oxide, which is black. looks like oxygen got in and likely UV radiation made it oxydize. you need the polarizing filter coz otherwise after reflection you cancel out the polarization in the LCD, theres no such effect before putting in the backing.
@kippie803 жыл бұрын
Oh! it is a winner.
@craftsman1234563 жыл бұрын
There has to be a modern backlight that would fit it. Something like what they put in old gameboys
@johnellison30303 жыл бұрын
Where did you buy the yellow plastic screwdriver/lever things ? And what are they called?
@robbieaussievic3 жыл бұрын
.... Elastomeric, is the Elephant man's sister !
@paulbadenhorst29813 жыл бұрын
Could you make the 70 also working?
@FennecTECH3 жыл бұрын
This looks like ether oxidation or uv damage
@scottmiller30253 жыл бұрын
Sir I could use the front case and knob assembly if ur willing to part with it