EEVblog

[@Vhbaske]

My friend, we really enjoy your classes! The most intelligent teacher I have had in Electronics...

[@boblewis5558]

This is an old video so I'm not sure how many people will get to see this, but using the Arduino and outputting a 2,3 or 4 bit binary code in conjunction with a cd4066 analogue mux/demux you can emulate physical point to point connections quite easily. The on resistance of the CD4066 is also nearer to the carbon resistance strips than a straight mechanical switch. There are more modern versions of the CD4066 which have lower on resistance but I'd have to do a bit of chasing around to obtain the number. Try Googling for them. The beauty of such devices is that they do not rely on a common ground they literally act like electronic 2 contact switches and are bi-directional too IIRC. There is an 8 channel to one output version too which provides a great way to expand an ATTiny 85's ADC inputs by effectively sampling any one of the 8 by selecting it from the Arduino. THIS technique can enable a multi channel data logger to be built in a TINY amount of space with thee minimum number of chips, external components and size.

[@vasko002]

"Just a quick video" 18 minutes. Love it!

[@lodevijk]

The end result looks spiffing! Great job, Dave!

[@AureliusR]

Dave did a whole video on this, using oscilloscopes as an example. Look it up, it's called How NOT to blow up your Oscilloscope. Basically connecting the two grounds causes a loop, or another circuit, and interference (and sometimes high voltage/current) can flow between the two circuits, messing everything up!

[@Darryl603]

Hi Dave, I like to see projects where you are a little creative, on top of the usual tear downs. Hope to see more Thanks for sharing

[@EEVblog]

There are arduino libraries that allow you to capture the IR signal if you wire up a receiver.

[@KnuckxCB]

Dave, you can do multiple buttons with a common ground and discreet transistors; I've done it (for an audio amplifier remote in this case). All you need is a PNP transistor for each button with the emitter to the scanned side (I checked with a scope for the scanning pulses) and the collectors to the input side of each button. Drive base low thru a resistor to switch on, float base to switch off.

[@0LoneTech]

I've used 4066 (as others here suggested) before, and it did work perfectly. The main limitation is that the switched wires may not exceed the voltage the 4066 is powered from, but that's not an issue for 3V remotes.

[@Britec09]

Nice video Dave, a nice quick and easy hack, good job.

[@EEVblog]

I didn't have an IR Shark. Hacking the IR remote IS the simplest, quickest, and murphy proof way to get this job done. Literally a couple of minutes work (but I shot a video, so it took me 20 minutes or whatever)

[@stuner1337]

The way this is working is that the Arduino either connects the two Pins (by pulling the pin to its GND) or disconnects them (by putting it into High-Z mode). You have to do this because of the matrix configuration, which means the remote isn't just looking for a logic low/logic high. This is a simple approach for this application but optocopplers/a CMOS switch/... would also work.

[@EEVblog]

Oh FFS, it took all of 5 minutes to do this, it's the quickest solution possible, that's why I did it. And it's practical because it works. More fail for you. If I wanted to "impress" I would have decoded the IR command with a scope, and programmed it into the Arduino manually and/or wrote my own driver.

[@lejink]

"A quick video" 18 minutes long, you've awesome Dave

[@EEVblog]

Bought it from Freetronics. Very easy to use, that countdown timer is half a dozen lines of code.

[@esavarem]

When the io pin is in input mode, the two wires going to the remote are disconnected. Once you turn it into an output that is driven low (to ground) you get a connection between your arduino's ground and the low output. So it does not "use logic levels", but "open/closed"

[@DarkInsanePyro]

Amazing how many people are either playing ignorant or simply post comments without watching the video. Oh well. Interesting hack Dave. Amusing. =)

[@EEVblog]

Yes. I don't understand why people think this would be quicker and simpler than 5 minutes hacking in a learning remote? Sure it's neater, but no way it's going to be simpler and quicker. You have to wire in an IR receiver, get a suitable library, learn how to use properly, capture the code, maybe write some code to replay it, and then maybe troubleshoot it if it doesn't work first go.

[@3dmaxuser]

I was going to do something like this but I could not find one of those remotes so I ended up having to use a picmicro and working out the IR code it took me ages lol but I got there in the end :) , Thanks for the video Dave !

[@EEVblog]

Yes, I mentioned a CMOS switch in the video.

[@worldgeektube]

I enjoyed the video and learned something. I wish some people would go elsewhere if they are going to be so needlessly rude and ignorant.

[@EEVblog]

I mentioned that at the start of the video, yes I could have done that but I didn't want to dick around with capturing the code and getting that working. This was a quicker and easier hack.

[@EEVblog]

I didn't want a cable, it would be very messy for this use.

[@EEVblog]

Yes, that would require a separate shield or something to mount the transistor on. I didn't need that anyway for my use.

[@jamesbomb0069]

I bought that same Dot Matrix Display too! I'm going use it for my clock/weatherstation(inside-outside) Arduino project & probably use it to trigger, via IR, my evaporative cooler too!

[@msjaxp]

Your videos became superior every day :) Keep on Dave :)

[@AureliusR]

Everyone seems to be missing the point -- the reason he's doing it this way is because he needs to use the Arduino at the same time to run the giant timer board. Yes he could potentially do it another way but this frees up the resources of the chip so it can time the on/off cycles better (at least that's one reason, I'm assuming)

[@EEVblog]

I mentioned you could use those if you wanted to. I didn't need to.

[@williefleete]

I've done something like this with a computer keyboard, I've used optocouplers attached to the row column pads on the keyboard controller board, the LED side of the coupler connects to a console controller, direct to the buttons or via a comparator for the analogue controls

[@EEVblog]

That's not the reason. I didn't use the arduino direct because hacking a remote was just simpler and less hassle. 5 minutes work if I didn't shoot the video. To do it in the Arduino direct requires me to find a suitable library, read how it works, wire up a receiver to capture the code, then program it to spit it out again, and possibly troubleshoot code if it doesn't work.

[@micahnightwolf]

Dave, I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to electronics and hacking. But I was able to figure out a solution for the problem you were facing with the remote pressing buttons when you turn off the Arduino, and this is what I found. You might be able to conquer the power off problem by putting an NPN transistor between the remote and GND on the Arduino, and connecting the base to 5v or 3v3. It should make the connection between the remote and GND on the Arduino and allow the remote pins to be shorted by pin 0 as long as 5v or 3v3 is on. It will cut the connection, thereby removing the short between the 2 remote pins, when 5v or 3v3 goes dark. Also, can you power the remote from the Arduino? I'm not talking directly via 3v3. Even I know that won't work. But what about using a voltage divider and powering it from 5v? You may be able to fit the voltage divider inside the battery compartment.

[@rossbixley3173]

Here's a IR control hack for you Dave. Take a pair of 433Mhz IR extenders plus a set of 433Mhz power outlets. Push a button on the RF remote and the extender TX will convert it to IR. Lock this IR code into a programmable IR remote and now you can use the extender TX to receive the converted code and operate RF devices in other rooms with your IR remote. Change channels with 1 button and turn the electric blanket on in the bedroom or the electric kettle in the kitchen or simply control the lamps in your lounge possibly with the 4 now defunct teletext buttons. Confused ??? I'm sure you're not but email me [e-mail] if you need any clarification. ROSS BIXLEY NEW ZEALAND

[@elboa8]

Could all the people with negative comments post links to there site so we can see how it should be done. I am not holding my breath. Thanks Dave.

[@rtk1122]

Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to document everything so well.

[@johntheelectronmanensor3774]

Are you sure your camera doesn't already have the timer option programmed on it

[@wickedxe]

awesome as always dave :)

[@JohnEdwa]

Would multiple buttons work if you used buttons that have no common points at all, or is that they get connected inside the microcontroller that breaks them, no matter what pins you use ?

[@kaziq]

Easy solution to control multiple pins (possibly all) without any additional components: 1. The grounds of the remote and Arduino must be connected. 2. Connect all the row and column signals to your GPIO pins. 3. Write a program that detects the scanning signal of the rows or columns (an interrupt will be most reliable), and outputs states to the columns or rows at the specific times. This would effectively make the remote processor see the logic states on the inputs corresponding to the specific keys at the right times. A problem with that could be the delay between the scanning signal and the CPU changing the GPIO state, but that would not be hard to overcome.

[@johncoops6897]

Easier way... just use the matrix buttons that already share a common row or column connection. DOH

[@kokoilie]

Can you suggest a simple infrared reader schematic? I have a phototransistor and I can gather more parts if needed. After i buy a microcontroller I'll program it to understand the input.

[@raulguilherme2454]

did you build that led matrix? or bought? if build, can you explain how?

[@EEVblog]

No, I still need the full size Arduino to drive the LED matrix display.

[@FOHFILMS]

I've gotta pick up a few of those learning remotes.... Seem really helpful

[@LosNir]

Because then you would connect one of the matrix's common column \ row to ground, which will make it unusable. This is because the arduino actually acts as switch; when the pin is output & low it is connected to the arduino's gnd - which creates a short across the two pins on the remote, and when the pin is set as an input, it is no longer shorted together.

[@hobergenix]

I tried useing a 5v reed realy on each row and colum and tied one end of the relays to a common bus so I could have full control of all features. I was wondering if I could just use a cmoss switch like a CD4066 instead of the relay.

[@hankus253]

Dave I see you shop at Costco too, as I see Kirkland branded batteries being used.

[@BloodAsp]

So, how would you use all the buttons if you wanted to from the Arduino?

[@vladsinger]

How would you figure out the codes? With an oscilloscope and a photodiode?

[@MrR0FL0LMA0MG]

Why are small holes in big PCB copper traces made for? At 11:40 you can see them on ground plate.

[@johnfranks]

Does your camera not support LANC? I'm pretty sure there is a LANC library written for arduino...

[@SLYKER001]

Does optocoupler will work as key?

[@UberAlphaSirus]

We are not all using your forum, so perhaps a pointer or heads up for the whys and what nots of what you are trying to achieve would help us youtubers only. So this is for a giant timer board? BTW update on your solar would be cool :D

[@briwicklab]

would you try robotics mechanism like servo motor?

[@EEVblog]

Why? I didn't need an opto.

[@Razor2048]

hopefully this does not lead to shorter videos. anyway. if you have a ton of battery power or a wall adapter, you can use an old windows mobile pocket PC and create a macro on a universal remote app. Then after that, you can manually start the countdown timer as soon as you start the macro. I currently use my old pocket PC as a universal remote (may upgrade to a logitech harmony when they get rid of the cloud requirement and make an offline app for programming the remote.

[@D4RCinc]

Any chance you could help me out? I picked up a phone with a membrane interface like that, but unfortunately it doesn't appear to be as simple as the remote. Whats the best way of dialing a phone with a membrane keypad like that using an Arduino Uno? Thanks, I've been stuck on this problem for a while, and didn't want to give in to buying a DTMF chip and using that because I've already bought this phone.

[@TGHstudio]

Wow, nice led matrix !

[@lolbroek98]

Can you give a link for the remote

[@MahdiMohammadi0]

thanks dave, please make a video about RCA basics and how to connect an RCA device to a microcontroller, I mean the connectors with yellow (Image), white (audio), red (audio) colors. thanks a lot!

[@Knight8365]

New improved version of DaveCAD? Extended interface :D

[@ScottieNiven]

Why not use a relay to short the pins of the remote?

[@timbdotus]

Dave, you should grab one of the MSP430 Chronos Watches from TI, use that to control the camera! :D

[@AureliusR]

My bad. Didn't think about it that way, you're totally in the green on that one

[@DaveMcAnulty]

Hey dave, how did you connect the jumper wires to the remote, are they super fancy, or did you just solder them on? :-)

[@Eyetrauma]

props for using a pilot g2

[@Umovni]

MAYBE... Just a suggestion, You could try to explain the basics of some stuff You show in Your videos, like the carbon traces in this video. But briefly...? Just so to complete the whole picture of a device You are showing...?

[@EEVblog]

Don't assume things, because you are wrong. I was already in the store and saw the remote and thought oh yeah, I can just use that for my project, should be an easy hack, potentially better than dicking around trying to capture and program the arduino to do it. And if you follow me on twitter you'll know that I originally wasn't going to do a video on this. But in the end went what the heck. You failed miserably.

[@TheRossiale]

Why you can't use HIGH and LOW levels? I don't think i get it, still learning :) I think i sign up in the forum :P

[@ImRickJamesBtich]

Video not available on iphone.. Huh?

[@hankus253]

Sorry, I saw the Costco AA batteries and knew we have a Costco in nearby Sydney...just thought??

[@keiththompson4680]

Can you do a vankyo 600 remote please haha customer service are CSuckers and wont release any info for people can use firesticks on the projectors

[@hotbananas]

Assuming that Dave writes the text in the about box, I've only just noticed that he refers to himself in third person.

[@EEVblog]

We don't have Costco.

[@AlvaroAcosta]

You ahve to update your license of DaveCAD, the logo is no longer showing!

[@berni8k]

Or you can put an optocoupler or an switch(like an 74HC4066) between the button and the MCU and you can run it all from a single supply with no ground worries.

[@Mythricia1988]

As far as I know that's to decrease the capacitance of the ground plane(s), but I might be off on my assumption there.

[@Bluscream]

You can use a FLIRC usb dongle

[@crazzzik]

Even if you were able to work it as intended, you would have to map the AUX and Learn buttons as well. In case your programming on the remote is gone, you could program the arduino to learn those codes again. A failsafe.

[@fsphil]

Have you ever had a problem with those little Canon cameras refusing to charge a battery? Mine failed last year (on a trip to Sydney oddly enough) and I got a new battery only to find it won't charge that either. Typical. The official Canon external charger is very expensive.

[@ChrisGammell]

The blab is forthcoming!

[@yaminamrabet3718]

Peut on avoir la traduction en français ? Merci

[@jamesusespivot]

saying 'half a dozen' makes the number six seem so big

[@WorkFromHome-th2eq]

Nice project

[@koffibanan3099]

Can anybody explain me why exactly it didn't work driving the four different buttons with the arduino? Is it because he's effectively shorting the pins through the arduino, while pressing a button on the remote would still have a couple 100 ohms resistance between them?

[@blogtodeath4736]

+Koffi Banan Because the Arduino can only select a high or low to each pin, on a remote or other keyboard the 'rows' are strobed high in sequence not held high or low. So if I strobe the rows A-B-C-D depending on whether a column detects a high at the same time as A or B or C or D will give A1, A2, A3, A4, B1, B2, B3 etc. It is multiplexed so you can detect rows x columns keys say 4x4 - 1 keys. they are never held high or low

[@koffibanan3099]

Thanks a lot for your clear explanation! It all makes sense now! :)

[@andrewnz8753]

A

[@EEVblog]

Not as simple as using no opto at all, just a wire.

[@HDXFH]

It's a Sunwave remote!!

[@Tjousk]

I find it easier to grab my left ear with my right hand than with my left...

[@EdwinNoorlander]

Another way is to use only the arduino. Use A IR library.

[@Earentir]

You shouldnt really even care to reply to these ppl. And loved the hack btw :)

[@Shroommduke]

Do you have a working solution? If so, lets see your video, I'm all eyes!

[@ShadowManceri]

Brilliant ending there ;)

[@HDXFH]

popular universal remote maker!

[@NeMewSys4]

That is an IR repeater. I would like to see it learn a Fibonacci sequence through IR lol

[@trigg99]

I love it Dave

[@NerdNordic]

Indeed it is. It's a pain to work whit IR and µC's

[@k250014783]

Aww, what a hack! Just generating an IR signal with a microcontroller and any random IR LED would've been easier and neater.

[@Lizlodude]

OMG these exist! I don't know how I overlooked them for years but I'm buying one now! all I can ever find are the stupid DeviceCode ones!

[@blogtodeath4736]

+Lizlodude these have existed since the eighties and VHS days! I used to sell them for around 80GPB, now they cost around 10GBP

[@Lizlodude]

+aR Bemo (aRBemo) yep but then they tend to get replaced by the ones that use device presets, so I couldn't find them.

[@sapp5826]

I had this remote for years :D

[@therealjammit]

Increased power consumption, inductive kick and contact bounce (although the remote probably has a few micro seconds of lockout to prevent contact bounce).

[@shadman1911]

I collect Logitech Harmony remotes... they are exceptionally good

[@alexmaurer]

Ho nooooooo !! No "Dave Cad" this time ??? :-(

[@sl2k4u]

and there are some really cheap universal remotes available everywhere...