EEVblog

[@ConradsStudio]

The battery pack reveal was this video's I AM YOUR FATHER moment. Unexpected, but strangely satisfiying... Thanks for all this Dave. Its been a great journey, and we're not even done yet!

[@PatheticComputing]

I bought a Hammond enclosure a while back and I also admired the awesome 3D model in the datasheet.

[@whiskeyify]

Dave reminds me of the techs I worked with at AT&T ...I was a telecommunications tech. The guys I worked with all had a strong work spirit. .

[@BenjaminEsposti]

Dave ya should have tried using a metal case as the heatsink. Or you could use SMD parts ... that will save you plenty of room to get the extra stuff in there!

[@valordk]

thumbs up for 18650 cells! finally someone using them for a nice purpose. Professional flashlights have long used those cells for good.

[@MrDubje]

Watching this, I get a lot of nice ideas. Why not duplicate (in terms of size) the board for it to fit in the top? Mount the batteries, dc jack, charging circuit and the binding posts to that board and if there is room for it the lcd. For interconnection: NO CABLES. use header pins. Like a PC/104 bus. That way you can screw the boards in, and close the housing. If you need to change the batteries (aging, defect cell or whatever reason), you just have to open the housing and change them.

[@sifterjoe]

With the board on the top case so the knobs are also on the top (PCB is dead bug orientation), why not put the LCD on the bottom of the board soldered directly to PCB and cut out a rectangle in the lid (or a clear window), (shorten standoffs?) Seems like the best solution and you only have to make room for the like 10 thru hole pins. Front panel would then just be switches and USB and maybe leave room to move the connectors in line with the knobs where the display would have been

[@Oshbotscom]

I'm glad I made it to "Part 11" now I'm off to find me some Li-ions. Thumbs up. :)

[@EEVblog]

Hey, nice work. I hadn't used the 3D model to accurately align things, so didn't find that. Wierd, you would think it would come straight from their manufacturing CAD file?

[@RandyLott]

What's some good advice on mounting LCDs? It'd be quite a bit extra for a vertical PCB that would sit behind the front panel. Connecting the vertical PCB seems like a challenge as well. I'd like to avoid all wiring. There's always tape, but I don't feel a sense of professionalism or rigidity.

[@joshstube]

Dave! @ 13:30 If you would still like to keep the USB, why not cut out the top of the case to mount the lcd? perhaps an additional assembly step, but I would LOVE to have the lcd on top for easier reading. (just think of looking at it from the view you have your camera set too, you can't read the LCD if it's mounted on the front! Cheers ;)

[@KyleCarrington]

Great idea on the battery powered. Great for tinkering up at the cabin, or off-grid.. as well. Suddenly I may have to go back and invest some time on these videos.. this project, alas, it is not just another thing I can "buy for cheaper" :)) 5 stars *****

[@NoMercy1900]

Dave, after completing this project are you going to offer as a kit? That would be awesome!

[@SomeMoreVideos2468]

Really interesting project. I'll admit I've missed a few of the longer videos due to being busy, but I'll catch up when possible. You may have already covered this but I hope you consider selling it or kits for it, as far as I can tell it's all through-hole so I think it would make for a great kit. However, I'd consider other brands of battery, xFire aren't known for being great quality, the flashaholic community are quite wary of them.

[@mdcplas]

I would keep the 5 volt usb I think it adds a nice touch to it. LOVE IT... For your LCD mounting problems you have the lcd mounting holes already in place. Just run 4 screws from the front through the front cover. Add a nut to the mounting depth of the lcd you wish. Attach the LCD then put on the final locking nut on..DONE. This also allows you to change the depth of the lcd to what you would like. Love it.

[@PrimaSilica]

Dave would it be possible to setup your knobs and binding posts underneath the LCD on the 70 mm case? I'm assuming you could place a bigger LCD if you wanted to build a little bit of a bulkier PSU. I guess you're right though, if you're using a 70 mm case you might as well go all out and build the design for higher power usage.

[@metrick1312]

Get one of the aluminium cases from hammond instead. Then you can use the case as heatsink , and looks twice as cool (:

[@RandyLott]

Yeah, it was strange. I've found problems with files from other companies before, but the fact that Hammond sent me one was quite respectable. I nearly had to redesign a circuit due to an incorrect pinout once and they basically told me that I read it wrong. Looking at the date of their PDF, it was updated right after I mentioned the problem. Just goes to show that mistakes are everywhere. It's a matter of how these companies deal with them. Hammond handled it well.

[@MrDubje]

By moving the Dc jack to the top board, you may have room to spare on the opposite board for a vertical mount usb port.

[@Robbyinwesthouston]

I would say you might want to also have a ext battery input source... battery's might run low during the use and you need to keep the project running...so it would be nice to have a bypass for the internal batteries. Just my opinion...

[@ssj3gohan456]

If you're going the preregulator+LDO way, why not go the extra mile and use a well-filtered buck-boost entirely switching power supply? For instance, I've designed (and just tested) an isolated 5-to-5V 1A supply for USB isolation that produces less than 5mV ripple at full load thanks to a double LC filter. Also, this way you can use a single 18650 cell, requiring no balancing whatsoever and enabling arbitrary capacity expansion.

[@RandyLott]

Hey Dave. I just reported an error for this enclosure's .STEP file. The PCB is not correct as two of the mounting holes are closer to one edge than the other two. They have fixed this and they sent me a free one for the find. You probably already figured it out, but I thought I'd let you know.

[@EEVblog]

@PrimaSilica Yes, plenty of room and options with the 70mm case.

[@petemnu]

hi dave just subscribed to your video blogs so a newbie here but learning all the time great stuff

[@veektornelson7820]

I don't know much about electronics, but he makes it very interesting anyways.

[@nicwilson89]

Is it just me or do others feel that if we had alot more people like Dave on this lonely planet, we'd be far better off?

[@jabramow]

Great idea. I have never seen anything similar

[@MrCruiserhead]

you can use lithium polymer batteries for lower profile pack with more capacity

[@EEVblog]

@rear3000 Actually, I was thinking I might put it back, on the back panel. Would need to be an LDO though.

[@onlywhenprovoked]

great stuff, i want one! would be nice to keep that 5v, maybe put it on the back, or even the side?

[@DIYTAO]

@EEVblog Nice.. Have you thought about making your own prototype front panels with 3D printer? That way you could test those LCD+key positions before ordering the C- version of board?

[@joshstube]

it's been a month since the last PSU installment Dave . . . I've been quite entertained with everything you've been doing, but when do we get the next installment?? :) Keep up the good work! p.s. it would be great if you could bring the 5v back!

[@robot797]

when your done designing will you make kits or somthing?

[@srscricket]

hey dave, a question i've been meaning to ask... is imperial used more often than metric, or does it depend on where you are?

[@EEVblog]

@electrodacus Commercial one from the usual suppliers, I doubt it. Some hacked consumer hard drive case or something, maybe.

[@kildas]

All that time I was wonderign where and what kind of trafo You will be using. I was so wrong :D

[@criscros7]

@valordk 18650 cells have been widely used for years in battery packs for laptops, power tools and even electric cars like the Tesla Roadster (which uses almost 7,000 of them).

[@86Ivar]

can we buy those boards? kit etc. really want some.

[@ANDREYgrava21]

Awesome !!!

[@blueblast88]

@EEVblog Hey Dave! is this gonna be sold as a kit? or just in general like the uCurrent.

[@quicknuclearscience]

How the project coming I would love to buy one when it's ready.

[@MickOhrberg]

@EEVblog What would the battery life at 6V 1A be, considering the draw of all the components?

[@Cineenvenordquist]

Hmph; what, no boiling formed starch in acids, autoclaving mycelium, or thermoforming under silicone cookie sheets to make the case to suit? Pack the cells in darkened calcium carbonate, blacken the inside and one side of the case for heat transfer, silvering the other under a clear (PETE/lexan/UV-blocker-coated) coverplate (plus a jackfruit logo?) No future-looking photovoltaics-in port?

[@billynightmare]

did you print that case with your thing o matic?

[@EEVblog]

@DIYTAO It was originally 1:15min, so I split into a two!

[@CoolDudeClem]

Being battery powered it really is a power supply.

[@herctrap]

since you are redesigning the whole thing why dont you add a thermometer??

[@gnagyusa]

Awesome.

[@StewartAllen]

Dam I could have used this the other day. I had to drag power cords and crap just to test away from the bench.

[@muh1h1]

help i am in an infinite loop :D

[@AMalas]

Dave, I did not follow the entire series but why nkt use SMD?!

[@squelchedotter]

His goal was to sell kits, and for it to be a beginners first powersupply they could assemble themselves

[@AMalas]

ATschTheCube oh, makes lots of sense then

[@psp10004]

Why arent you using a li-po batteries? they are more compact.

[@funlw65]

And I bet you will continue it in Altium....

[@ryanmcdougall7470]

Are you selling one of those boards?

[@mm5032]

@eevblog can you upload the rev c for download

[@TediCreations]

One question. I do not see any electrolytic capacitors. Can somebody explain me why not use them?

[@0867532]

because its linear supply

[@mrthings3296]

G0867532 and?

[@TediCreations]

Thank you.

[@BenjaminEsposti]

+G0867532 Linear supplies need capacitors too ... it just depends on the design -_-

[@0867532]

+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti If OP amp fast enough, they need't. Regular 1uf+0.1uf ceramics will be fine.

[@EEVblog]

@DIYTAO Just as easy to cut some holes in the front panels I have.

[@daveyjones5702]

lithium ion in a device that gets hot like a PSU?

[@markslab28]

What Happened to this can we buy it

[@DIYTAO]

Just 15 minutes? .. I expected at least 45 minutes :-)

[@DLTX1007]

Dave , you need to normalize the audio in your editing software , this new video is way too soft !

[@00Skyfox]

I was really hoping this project would remain simple enough that a dumbass like me could build it from salvaged or purchased parts, but it's really gotten far more complex than I can build.

[@BenjaminEsposti]

+00Skyfox It always seems like that to me XD I always end up building a circuit, and find some quirks ... just gotta figure them out lol .. that's how ya learn! Just take it step by step, so you won't get overwhelmed XD

[@redemptusrenatus5336]

+00Skyfox Check out "Power Supplies" 2nd Edition by David Lines, ISBN 9780790611204. Look out for used copies for cheap, it's getting harder to find and people are starting to charge ridiculous amounts for it. It's a good book and shows you how to build these things with simple components as well as explaining the how and why.

[@joshstube]

@ 14:50 the link is to This video :) (I thought I was having deja vu ;p

[@bcsupport]

Why so much PTH ?

[@jabramow]

Ahh dropping the 5v is a shame

[@adam7868]

battery powered seems legit

[@thenerdyouknowabout]

70mm looks like a sandwich box

[@aptsys]

@heroineworshipper Not true.

[@lessopinion9707]

Maybe a little less Babel would leave more time for useful information on your subjects. You do sometimes have insightful topics, however this is not one of them. Let's do one on video editing and we can all learn something.

[@mm5032]

Can you

[@invernomuto00]

pro stuff, not for me.