Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner Elements

[@shawnreid101]

I have great difficulty paying attention to videos, especially instructional. I usually have to watch it a few times to figure them out, but you sir; Need a handshake. Thank you so much! Pofessional and simple. Keep up the great work!

[@markmadnessbeats]

Just started a new job training in appliance repair and this really cleared up a lot of the parts that have been confusing me. You make it very easy to understand. Thanks so much!

[@charlesyingst1825]

Glad it helped! It took me a while to understand these concepts also. If you are looking for appliance service management software... I have built a web application system that I'm pretty proud of. It's servicenode.work If you check it out and have any questions let me know!

[@SeanDee21]

Earlier this afternoon, one of the blocks on my stove burned out and the heat on light remained after after all the switches were turned off, thoroughly freaking me out. After watching this video, I was able to troubleshoot the problem and avoided a potentially hefty repair bill. A couple of new parts and I should be good to go! The video was extremely helpful so keep it up!

[@the_stixXx]

I've been repairing my own appliances for a while now. This was a great video that gave me information that was useful. Thanks for sharing.

[@applianceassistant]

Glad it was helpful!

[@DavidBarilAlmonte]

Excellent instructional video. Good clear voice and diction. Clear graphics. Pacing and level of detail bang on. Thanks.

[@ventutrer]

Great video!! Fixed the stove top just before Christmas. I am now my wife's hero. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

[@vycogh]

I found this video and others that you've made very helpful in fixing appliances on my own. The style is very appropriate to get the message across in a light-hearted way and I definitely prefer something humorous than other videos which are poorly lit and boring as hell.

[@sazennonumber]

Thank you ever so much, you just fixed my stove element!! I am far from knowing anything electrical, but luckily my problem was a very simple one. Just had to sand down the wires and all of a sudden, my two coils that did not work (on a new stove!) started working! Now, I just have to fix the rubber that detached from the oven door... 🙄 Brand new! Have to get some silicone glue and do the best I can to seal that oven. I am a woman and I live by myself, so.. long live youtube and the wonderful and kind knowledgeable people who share their talents. Saved me a lot of money and frustration. Thanks again!! 🧡

[@l5e5m5]

Thanks so much! Fixed my problem @5:18 The replacement switch I ordered was the issue, the infinite switch was rubbing against the plastic housing causing it to bind and get stuck, not allowing current to flow through. Used a razor blade to remove some plastic and allow the infinite switch to move freely, good as new!

[@applianceassistant]

Now that's what I'm talking about! Good observation skills! thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@DorothyLeanneFlores]

Contemplating what to do, recently learned our stove top isn't working. Great video, and agree with others the clarity & technical explanation is very helpful. Like the humble humor too❤. Gives me another hopeful option vs going straight down the tunnel of buying a whole new stove! Thanks

[@houmanbenz]

i never wrote a comment on you tube.. but this is by far an excellent tutorial. keep them coming

[@Pascalore]

Thank you for the information. I had replaced the entire cook top wiring with a wire set from another brand of range. My brother sent me the replacement from a scavenged unit as mine only had two working burners. Replacement went flawlessly without help but the large element I usually use to boil water now took forever and never fully boiled. Your identifying the amperage range of the switches was the solution I needed. I simply swapped the infinite switches for the left two elements and solved the problem. The right two were already connected correctly. I can only guess that the original stove had both large burners on the front.

[@ddr5ecc768]

It is a 9 years ago video. However, it explained well with the mechanism. Very helpful. Thanks!

[@alvincoleman3470]

FINALLY!!! I've been searching everywhere for someone to explain in detail about what could be the problem with my stove, and how to set that Multimeter thing-a-majig and actually show what setting. Not only was I tremendously puzzled ( Imma Hairdresser NOT an electrician) and frustrated because I couldn't find a video that went threw and explained it all, I also heard some things I hadn't heard but It made my day because SIR you had me ROFLMGAO. Thank you so much!!!

[@applianceassistant]

Glad I could help! Are you in Louisville? Because I am in serious need of a haircut ; ) Thanks for the comment!

[@clairhills5368]

one of the best vids i have seen on this type of repair, exceptionally good. I liked how you showed close up of how the element terminals slide into the copper receptacles

[@applianceassistant]

Thank you for taking the time to comment! Glad you liked it!

[@edwardlee9163]

Thank you for your information. It is very helpful. It's true that I never appreciate the heat until it is gone. It is time for me to dig in and go to work.

[@doughelms558]

The Citizen Kane of electric range repair videos! Magnifique! Four Stars!

[@willhezlep5897]

Just fixed my stovetop thanks to this video. It was simply an unplugged wire going to the burner, but I would not have had the confidence or know-how to troubleshoot without the video. Thanks. I also thought it had the perfect balance of humor and info. Thanks again.

[@BallroomDancinFools]

I was impressed with this clear tutorial, I learned a lot. Many thanks.

[@ZeekSuds]

Probably the best video I've seen on this ever

[@MrMikkyn]

I am struggling with my heating element, and will probably have to get someone to repair it. But I will continue watching this video, rewatching it. Maybe write down the instructions. Very good video, I just need to study this video carefully.

[@LienLe1]

Thank you very much. You shined my day. I've just reset the range circuit breaker and it worked. Awesome video. Thanks and thanks.

[@applianceassistant]

Wonderful! Thanks for the comment!

[@Mrflymess]

just worked out the problem with my old stove thanks to this video. timeless for those who like a bit of hands-on

[@anniversary4]

This is an awesome video. Thanks for your efforts. Concise and well explained. Helped me alot. I was working on a range that had 2 dual elements and they are both operating erratically. I was thinking it might be due to the temp probe on the element and told "no that probe is simply for the pilot lights so it is most likely the control switch/knob that is the problem. Your video seems to confirm that all the heat cycling is done at the control switch/knob. Is that correct?

[@applianceassistant]

Thats the direction I would try first. Good luck!

[@beanies4811]

Thank you for the video! I think I will need to watch this several times before I can fully understand... I might end up hiring someone, but still wouldn't hurt to understand how everything works. I thought you are very talented. Not just at fixing, but making an entertaining & informative video clip with an ad slipped in for your website! ;)

[@applianceassistant]

Glad to help : ) if it is just a cook top then it should have a separate power supply from the oven, so I would still guess that there is some kind of a problem with the electricity getting to the stove top... maybe a loose connection so be careful. Good luck!

[@bacer5846]

Excellent video! Saved me the cost of a professional technician servicing my faulty burner.

[@destructionindustries1987]

Excellent job. Very understandable. Lol "it takes 2 to make a thing go right" 😅 I have my grandpa's multimeter and was trained as an electrician Apprentice, so i understand alot of your tutorial. Appliances are pretty interesting.

[@barrygoodman509]

I once thought that the entire cooktop had to be replaced when one burner failed. Thanks to this video, I've fixed/replaced burner switches and/or burner elements on mine and some of my neighbors glass-top stoves easily and quickly, saving them and me plenty of money in service calls in the process. Thanks.

[@applianceassistant]

That's what its all about! Thanks for the comment!

[@akidojlaw537]

What an awsome and generous tutorial you all put together. Simply, Thank you for all the videos you produce.

[@applianceassistant]

Thanks for that! Glad you enjoy them!

[@user-lf7en6rf8m]

Man, thank you, yes there does seem to be alot of info in that video, however it answers all my questions lol, im new to troubleshooting appliances, but you sure remove the intimidation of it, subscribed/ liked/ loved 😊

[@roger61]

The oven does work. The stove and over arent together the stove top is on a cabinet sort of way and the stove is in the wall type if that makes any sense lol thanks for replying your videos are more helpful than you know and saves alot of money for people.

[@BKB1969TN]

Thank you. I could not find a how to for removal of a top forever. I changed my element in about 20 minutes after watching this.

[@KhelanBhatt]

Fantastic video: Concise, accurate AND entertaining.

[@steamboatdad]

excellent, succinct and fun video. My frigidaire electric oven goes to 375F, but no higher. Is it likely to be the control block, or could it be the heating element?

[@mattbankert]

Thanks! This video helped me figure out the problem with my stove! The element control switches were switched (pun intended), so that the small and large burners were mismatched. It caused the large burner to not really heat at all unless you turned it on high. It must have been that way from the factory. I just switched the switches and everything seems fine.

[@applianceassistant]

Congratulations! Switching switched switches...Perfect! Thanks for the comment!

[@johnnyandmila65]

Wow! Very well done! Got it. Great summary of what my problems could be. I like your safety moments as well.

[@applianceassistant]

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

[@samuri17]

Excellent video. Clear, concise, and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing this information.

[@applianceassistant]

Thanks for the comment!

[@khaney9667]

Michael Knight I found it annoying. Like it was made for an audience of 12 year olds

[@applianceassistant]

The idea is basically the same the main difference is the need for a pan or pot with a fairly flat bottom for better heat transfer. the only other issue is when your tasty culinary concoction is complete, it is a good idea to move it to a cool surface element because cool down time is fairly slow with electric surface elements. Also if you have a glass top be careful not to use pots and pans that may scratch the surface. Good luck! Thanks for the question!

[@gfalani]

THUMBS UP!!!! I think your video is great. Very informative and Entertaining. I'm definitely more confident in trouble shooting my burner issue. Thank you for taking the time to educate others!

[@qewd0075]

Now I got somewhere to start....if I turn on most if not all my heating elements like to mid heat 4-6, the burner bearly heats up. So I got to turn it on high, let it heat up, then back down to mid....then you walk away...come back and no heat again... I was ready to throw the range out the back door but maybe its simple fix! Good video!!!

[@Thebowzer221]

THIS IS REALLY AN EXCELLENT VIDEO. I actually understand it. I have to do this on a Kenmore glass cook top. Either I fix it r it goes 2 the curb. It came with the house. Would never buy one of these, cheap, junk. I would spend more $ and get a better quality appliance, than buy junk. Tired of fixing/having it fixed.

[@overkillkiller]

A lot of info is better than not enough, so I don't understand the down votes on videos such as this, were those people so stupid that they googled cat videos and watched this and decided to down vote it because there were no cats in it? I didn't google cat videos, i google how to remove the range top and this was on the side, so I might as well educate myself some prior to needing it. Thanks for a great video

[@applianceassistant]

It's hard to make appliance repair entertaining : ) Thank you!

[@TNOffroadPhiDelt]

Great content and information in a nice and tight package. Well done!

[@AurelienCarnoy]

That was perfect for a me who does not know anything about appliances. Either the thing that gets red is broken. Or the switch. Or the wires. Or the connection between all that.

[@applianceassistant]

Sorry for the delay, I hope you figured it out. Try using a meter to check for voltage from a screw on the range's frame to a ground connection and see if you get a reading. There is probably a shorted wire somewhere... Then unplug it and check for resistance from each of the plug terminals to the frame as you turn each burner switch on one by one. Hopefully that will help to narrow down where you should be looking. If you still don't find anything look at the oven element wires. Good luck!

[@shawnnguyen6902]

I learned a lot after 7 minute video. Thank you

[@applianceassistant]

Sorry for the slow response. on the Frigidaire style there are a few Phillips head screws on the under side of the top that you can see when you open the oven door. at that point the top hinges up on two tabs under the back of the top. Be super careful!! you may want to have someone else there to help. If the top breaks it's very expensive to replace! Good luck!

[@timothygraves1531]

Man this video is so old but should still be good

[@sandymitchell8182]

This was a great video, I didn't understand all of it, but I'm sure if I go to the site I will learn, gave a scribe for all the useful info, 👍

[@lechatbotte.]

Thank you for all the wonderful information. Because you were so concise I was able to open the cook top and review the parts. It became immediately apparent that my large front right burner was none functioning because one of the metal connections on the wire leading to the burner had burned and was no longer making contact. My question is: Do I need to replace the complete wire with ends? Is it possible to put just a new end on? Do I need to replace the L1 L2 switch as well.

[@kr4d100]

Great video. Gave me some direction that will hopefully lead to the issue Im having. Thank you 🙂

[@mannyrob]

Great video, fun & informative, thank you for taking the time to make it.

[@avadawnhunter5443]

This tutorial helped me avoid a tech visit. My breaker was the problem!

[@ballisonfargo]

That was my thinking as well. Ordered a new element last week. Not in love with this range but not ready to replace it yet either.

[@applianceassistant]

Perfect! I just ran into my first bad simmer control board last week... Same symptoms. Thanks for the comment!

[@bouasonephouikhambay4081]

very good information in such a short video

[@V1N1V]

Thanks for your video. What should I do with broken filament? Is there a way to reuse it or solder join?

[@applianceassistant]

There isn’t anything official that I’ve heard of or tried, but if you can figure something out that works I would love to hear about it. Solder wouldn’t work because of the heat involved.

[@nerdlinger2]

that's a great video. im gonna subscribe. my friend just told me they got a shock and I thought id try and help her out. I asked if she removed the elements to clean and or saw any defect in the element herself. im waiting to hear back. any advice? I know its an apartment stove and gotta be 3 wire cause that house is old.

[@billstmaxx]

Excellent info... Thank you

[@applianceassistant]

My pleasure! Unfortunately no, this is the only range video I've made. But in most cases the back panel will come off with a few screws and the switch is held in place by 2 screws behind the knob. You need to order the switch by the range model number which is usually located behind the storage drawer on a sticker on the frame of the range. Make sure you get the right one for that element, they can be different depending on the element size. Good luck! Thanks for the question!

[@jjs777fzr]

Thx for the video. My left front burner was not working - and it is the one controlled by the simmer select control board. After testing the infinite switch for continuity L1/H1 and L2/H2 to be okay - I ordered a replacement simmer select control board and now its back to working order. Save hundreds on a repair man visit.

[@smetivier429]

Hi, I'm so happy to found your explanations. I bought a Maytag in 2007 but the triple surface burner element never work. By the time, I realized it, the guarantee was finish. I checked everywhere with multimeter and the problem seams to be a broken coil. I want to know if it's reparable ? Can I do welding on it ? or need to replace ? It's very expensive, about 150$ Can you help me please ?

[@applianceassistant]

hard to say for sure but it definitely is a shot to the cabinet somewhere... Do you have a model number? I don't know if I will be able to find any diagrams for a range from the 50's but its worth a shot. I would probably just start looking for a short somewhere between the buttons and the heating element.

[@FreddyT62]

Great video, keep up the great work, Thanks for taking your time to help others.

[@applianceassistant]

Thank you!

[@Texaca]

...damn this is an 11 year old video, it looks like it was made last week. That's some good production you got there. ✌🏽 And some very good info. They never covered any of this stuff in Electronics Tech school🤔

[@katrinasondy5269]

your name here i love it 1 of the best vids on here

[@TheJosa007]

Excellent video, I've done my part helping, I shared it on Facebook. Good luck with the ratings.

[@deborahrieser2276]

Good clear well made video, Thanks!

[@montyb12]

Great great video!! I have a Frigidaire Galleria and the two front burners on each side won't heat up to red level although they still get warm. What do think the issue is? Thoughts?

[@rxtorres]

Excellent instructional video. Thank you very much!!

[@applianceassistant]

Well that kind of is what they are supposed to do... Is it not getting hot enough over all? When they are on they are full on, then cycle off to cool down, then back on again and off and on and off... Side note: If the element is heating up to red it is okay. So if the temperatures are not good enough I would lean toward a weak infinite switch... Hope that helps! Good luck!

[@Daddypawo59]

Great video Thanks, like to ask you a question I am not getting the 240 volts when touching both hot wires. I do get the 120 volts off each side. where could I start looking for the problem

[@Mike-oz7sr]

Thank you I check out the power connection with a meter and only one leg had power so I rewired it and it working great now.

[@applianceassistant]

Perfect, Congratulations!

[@zupermx]

It is very much helpful, thank you. Do you have a web page?

[@applianceassistant]

Thank you! Yes it’s applianceassistant.com!

[@MontrealMan1970]

i actually wish it was longer than 7 minutes, a good watch indeed. tks

[@popewv]

Thanks so much! I had just bought a used electric range, and some things weren't working. I thought I was only getting 120 to the oven, and after watching your video I was sure of it. I went and bought a multi-meter and confirmed that was the problem! Many thanks!

[@applianceassistant]

That did have a slight speed adjustment but no by much. after they have heated up a few times they are about that fast. Thanks for the question!

[@iquit4gud]

awesome video and website! I have an electric glass top stove. one of the elements on the stovetop when turned on, will make a big spark coming from the element, blow the fuse in the electric panel and create some smoke. could it be the switch itself is faulty and pulling too much amps?

[@mtha_777]

Liked, subscribed and I want to say this video is helpful

[@rick210t]

i have the original ge electric oven/stove top. very basic. it was in the house when i bought it and i hope to use it until i redo the house and buy new in a year or so. but the only thing that works is the light inside the oven. looking forward to following your troubleshooting techniques tomorrow. thanks.

[@applianceassistant]

Do any of the elements work? Try resetting your breakers first. If that doesn't get it going again, you will need to look for a loose contact to the H1 side of the switches. Hope that helps some. Good luck!

[@donaldcouture4882]

where do i send the check, you just saved me a bunch of money ;^)

[@applianceassistant]

Whatever elements are sticking on sound like they need new control switches. most likely the L2-H2 connection is shorted closed and not cycling properly. when the switch is turned completely off then the L1-H1 contact opens and turns the element off. Good luck! Thanks for the question!

[@linearco]

What a great video...!! any thoughts with 1 out of the 3 burners not working? I get a power reading on the 3 operational burners, but no reading at all on the bad one. Any suggestions?

[@applianceassistant]

Probably a bad switch that is controlling that element. check voltage at the switch L1 and L2 is input so you should have 240 VAC there all the time… Then if the switch is on high you should get 240 VAC at H1 and H2 which are the output connections. Good luck!

[@kmleckrone]

Thanks! I was able to successfully replace the switch for a large burner. I also replaced a small burner switch that “sticks on” but it’s not acting any different. Burner itself was replaced too. What am I missing?

[@HankinsMT]

wow ... Excellent video! well done!!! ... looking forward to more

[@jankowskyglass]

Hi, I like your entertaining and very informativ videos. Know anything about repairing induction cooktops? This is the 3rd time that one of the cook fields fail and it's run out of guarantee. Is help available or is that too complicated? cheers from spain

[@jimpackman9049]

I thought the video's were very well done, easy to follow.

[@edrodriguez6972]

Great Video. Thanks for the concise info without silly antics.

[@applianceassistant]

Thank you! It's always nice to hear what people really think... It's a tricky job keeping this stuff entertaining and still covering the important stuff in under 7 min. : ) Thanks again for the comment!

[@applianceassistant]

You can crimp on new terminals. (you can find them at most hardware stores) However, it is a high amperage connection so it needs to be a very solid crimp connection. Your switch are likely okay you may want to double check so if you do need it you will only have one shipping charge. But it's probably fine. Thanks for the comment! Good luck!

[@turrubiartes9]

Thanks a lot 😊

[@rayanderson286]

Excellent presentation.

[@donnellbarber9733]

Wonderful video very informative. I have a question so my stove has a small burner and a larger burner being controlled by one dial or switch. So when I want to use the larger burner the entire eye is suppose to heat up. Sobthe coils that heat the outer portion of the eye work and heats up while the coils that heat the inner part (the small burner) of the eye does not heat up. In turn when I want to use the smaller eye portion only it still doesn't heat up. How should I tackle this problem?

[@charlesyingst1825]

Even though the element is one item it is made up of two separate heating coils. Sounds like the small coil is probably broken. Visual inspection or checking each part of the coil for continuity with a meter would verify the problem. Best case would be a power supply issue inside the control switch for the smaller coil. Hope that helps! Good luck!

[@martinad1941]

great presentation about a look "behind the scene"

[@applianceassistant]

Thank you!

[@vbos57]

Clear and informative .Thanks for the help. Now my wife doesen't have to' take my word for it !'

[@applianceassistant]

Most likely... It sounds like the L2 connection is welded closed within both switches. You can use a meter to verify... the L2 and H2 connections should not have any contact when the switch is off. Thanks for the comment!

[@polancorosahn]

Excellent info, I have a question My electric range, burner when turn on very little red come on and off quickly then little red again so on n off to soon do I need replace the burner I did install infinity switch no to long ago thank you.

[@Sharkie626]

Oh yeah, also wanted to mention, do the glass-top coils heat up and cool down that fast, or was that just fast motion?