Electric window motor bench test, strip & fix

Electric windows are, by nature, less reliable than the old 'hand' operated regulators. However, it's obvious that reliability & subsequent repair costs are way down the priority list of most modern vehicle manufacturers. Take LED lights as a prime example - what was a simple & inexpensive bulb swap now becomes a complete, bank balance destroying lamp cluster replacement!
So, with manufacturer's constant quest to complicate cars & provide more 'luxury' for the driver, electric windows are now a 'standard' feature on cars & have been for many years. As a result, given their complexity & increased number of components, they often cause problems, be it relays, motors, switchgear or even a simple break in the wiring loom - whatever the fault, it's a mechanic's job to find it & fix it!
Here's a video I put together one wet & windy Sunday morning when my own Nissan Patrol's driver's door window mechanism decided enough was enough. The video covers the bench testing, strip down & rebuild of the electric motor assembly and a look inside the controlling relay, contact cleaning and relay operation too...
I'm happy to say that the window is now working better than ever!
If you have any questions please add them to the comments section & I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Andy Mechanic

[@petee1968]

Really useful, thanks! I've got a winder motor for a TVR Chimaera that I need to strip down and service, this will be really helpful.

[@jaidenmackay9244]

Saved me %110 with my GQ Patrol, Thankyou !

[@rogerd4559]

if you have an electric drill that has a sufficiently big enough chuck you may be able to rotate that armature and use the drill as a lathe spinning the commutator then you will be able to sand it evenly by rotation. I, fortunately, have a small lathe that I service armatures in that respect

[@Ottonic6]

I had to chuckle when you said "a lot like Ivan". You read my mind..

[@AndyMechanic]

:-)

[@baboolalheeralal6195]

The most detailed video I have seen.great job,I have learnt a lot.thanks

[@ElectronPCFix]

Great explanation! Thanks 🙏

[@uriab2022]

hello thank you very much for your comprehensive explanation, you are very clear and methodical it is very important .

[@pedrocolmenares82]

very good teacher,,,congratuleichion,,thank you

[@mikepierre3386]

You have got a great explanation voice

[@kushuk2360]

Excellent

[@Projectlife2023]

The discoloration of the windings on the commutator side is from the brushes. as they wear the material makes its way to the windings.

[@omarhaider3035]

thank you so much

[@rogerd4559]

make sure you remove the debris between the commutator plates and check that the mica is undercut sufficiently

[@petecurran3995]

Good stuff Andy. That motor was a lot less notchy at low volts after the clean up. Worth getting those soldered joints under the magnifying glass?

[@rogerd4559]

you are better off using sandpaper and not wet and dry because that type of paper contains carbon grit and it lodges into the commutator.grinding down the brushes rapidly and shorting out the commutator. this is what my shop teacher told us in electronics class

[@richardwood5340]

Hi , Im upgrading a 2010 Citroen from manual to electric power windows, I bought the regulators and harnesses from breakers, however there are 2 lots of wires branching off each harness, my guess is that some of these would be for remote door locking, could you tell me which wires are for power and earth, I have pics of the harnesses but dont know how to load them on here, I should add that the harnesses have the plugs at both ends, cables that branch are blue,pink,grey,brown,white/black stripe, on other harness, grey, pink. Thanks.

[@jony507pty]

thx bro

[@rogerd4559]

clean out the grooves! you will just short the commutator bars together with the copper dust!

[@ClevelandRocks216]

brilliant:)

[@strong_man.]

Wow nice vedio learnt alot ❤

[@rogerd4559]

I thought I saw rub marks on the armature. That would indicate the armature might be touching the field shoes. That would be a tell-tale sign of worn bearings. if that is the case then that would be why the motor occasionally stops working as the armature may be hanging up on the field shoes. In that case, replace the motor. the motor has given you good service its time to change that 20 YO motor

[@bmw-e30]

I thought that if the other windows are working ok then it rules out the relay and the motor or wiring to it, is the problem.

[@viktorvik1973]

nice

[@MuhammadJunaid-tg5sm]

But tell me that after cleaning the motor and still motor is slow then what is the reason ??

[@aguynamednak7150]

Nice work ; can you mention the model of that car

[@AndyMechanic]

Yes that was my 1992 Nissan Patrol Cheers Andy

[@aguynamednak7150]

@@AndyMechanic thanks for the reply

[@1weirddoe571]

What would happen to motor if one winding was open? Would it still turn or turn with less power?

[@AndyMechanic]

No not really as with an open circuit on one of the armature windings the motor wouldn't restart if it happened to stop in that position on the previous actiation

[@jacquelinemanzano9328]

Clean the copper wiring with a brush and acetone.

[@rahalati]

Good job. My power window motor works okay and then slows all the way down till it stops. I have to wait few minutes before it starts to work again, then it repeats the same scenario. I opened the motor, cleaned it and even replaced the brushes and still the same problem. Any thoughts.

[@AndyMechanic]

Yes, I'm confident the problem you have is that there is high friction between the glass & the felt guides in the frame of the door. Silicone spray will sort that. The other possible issue is that the metal frame that pulls the window down may have a tight pivot too. The motor cutting out is a protection system to prevent the motor getting too hot due to the excessive load applied caused by the high friction from the guides or frame pivots Hope this helps Cheers Andy

[@rahalati]

Thanks for your quick response. The problem is happening even while the motor is not attached to metal frame

[@AndyMechanic]

Oh.....that isn't good. Maybe check the wiring to the motor then, there could be high resistance (broken wire or corrosion etc) on the feed or earth wire. These are also often controlled by relays so it may be worn contacts inside the relay. You could try powering the motor directly to see if it works okay then you know it's not a fault with the motor.

[@rahalati]

I will try these suggestions especially wiring the motor directly and let you know. Thanks for your advice and time

[@muhammadtofiq4451]

@@rahalati what was the problem

[@frankyw8803]

You off to court ?

[@comeinhandynow]

Well done, it shows that fixing the motor/regulator is possible, which is then free! Here’s my video fixing both the motor/regulator, gears, bearings and switch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKW0ZmOYatF7pdU