How to test a power window switch/motor (1985-2001 Toyota)

1992 Toyota Camry Power Window Troubleshooting.
The testing procedure shown in this video can be applied to any reverse polarity DC electric motor. This car has an Auto Down power window circuit that is used on many different models.
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Tools used
Power Probe IV
www.aeswave.co...
Power Probe Lead Set (PPLS01)
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AES' Electronics Accupuncture Probes www.aeswave.co...
OTC 3633 Mini Circuit Tester
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Related videos
Auto Down Power Window Circuit Operation and Troubleshooting
• Video
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.

[@shanebrunette4399]

where do I get your book

[@ScannerDanner]

Through my website at www.scannerdanner.com It is available as an eBook or paper book. Thank you!

[@smokelikeahippi4538]

ScannerDanner I am having s major issue with my 2000 blazer. I'd appreciate it if you'd contact me by email. my email is [e-mail] I just need help troubleshooting. any advice would be greatly appreciated

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm having trouble keeping up with these types of requests. It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 90,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there. Paul Danner (ScannerDanner) www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@ironmike742]

@@ScannerDanner that's what you get when you're a problem solver. I work at a Ford dealership and have 26 years in the field. My phone rings off the hook from people needing help. I always try to pay it forward and help because without a lot of people's help I wouldn't be where I am today but sometimes it becomes overwhelming. It's a double edged sword but the good Lord will never give us more than we can handle.

[@ironmike742]

@@ScannerDanner also when I am unsure of the voltage reading on a window circuit since I have the master window switch right there in my hand I'll test a working circuit from another window. Testing a known good one is something you teach and preach all the time. I have learned alot from you sir. We are a dying breed. A high percentage of TECHNICIANS in the field are parts changers. Keep up the good work and just know that you are appreciated.

[@Ottonic6]

I am currently diagnosing a 1992 4 Runner drivers window that won't go up, but anyway, looking at the FSM Electrical "System Outline" which explains the operation of the different controls in the master switch it explains that in auto down 12v is sent to the motor while at the same time is also sent to a solenoid (inside the little "Solid State" box on the Mitchell diag. that doesn't show anything) which locks the switch in the down position and when the motor hits its down limit increases the current through the solenoid which disengages it along with the switch... There's a lot more going on with 8 resistors,4 diodes (1 zener), a couple caps etc... I know that won't play a part in my diagnosis, but what you explained really helped me out in direction when I attempt to fix my problem. Thank you for your time and expertise.

[@KingBaconMonger]

Dang!! I was trying to figure out on a 2013 CRV: Master window switch? Passenger window switch? Motor? Regulator? I did what you said, I yanked the button on the master switch up and down, nothing, did it again, did it again, mashed it down - THE WINDOW MOVED. It's something with the master window switch. I can replace that, no problem. YOU ARE A GENIUS! Thank you, ScannerDanner!

[@joeandgod1]

I've used the power probe, the load pro, etc... After everything, nothing beats the simplicity and efficiency of the mighty "TEST LIGHT".

[@ScannerDanner]

agree, the test light would have been my tool of choice had it not been for the fact that I needed to manually get that window up.

[@AGuysGarage]

Couldn't you use a DMM and just leave everything hooked up one way? When it reverses it will just read negative voltage. Easy peezy. Unless i am missing something. /shrug, love my fluke dmm with super sharp spear you in the eyeball probes

[@joeandgod1]

I think that's another way of doing it. The only problem with the volt meter is that it doesn't "load" the circuit like the test light does. So the test light checks for ground and power and loads the circuit at the same time.

[@AGuysGarage]

keep the motor in circuit and it supplies the load. meter just tells you if there is Voltage in both directions. Sort of a quick and dirty test. If it goes down, u get 12V so up without changing anything should be -12v because the grounds swap. if it remains 0 the motor is good because it went down, only thing left is switch / solder on the switch board. or a broken wire for up. or the module itself /shrug to each their own. once one gets the feel for it, it is shocking what you can find out just with a simple diode check setting. "use it as a short detector" I have been in electronics repair for a very long time, i guess i am just really comfy with the DMM plus it is relatively cheap compared to fancy stuff. the window circuit on my pathfinder is a bit strange, when you close the switch it grounds on a different module entirely. pretty simple really, hit the button, completes circuit and window moves. used it to install my "momentary switch 2 wire door popper" never call the locksmith again or worry about a magnetic key box letting go when u hit a pot hole or a good bump.

[@Tech-28]

Danner your working on one of the most reliable automobiles ever manufactured.

[@TerryThrower-ci8ek]

Thank you so much for your time explaining how this switch works, it really makes sense now.

[@Tom.N]

Pete seems to be a very capable and busy mechanic, we are lucky he lets you film you working there.. Cheers to Pete.

[@megastick9324]

Looks to me like he is filming himself.

[@pierretessier1682]

you're very very patient.The most important is that you knew what was the problem.Very very good troubleshooting my friend!

[@mrghiax]

Nice video Paul. As you openly admit - very nearly ended up in the reject bin but personally speaking I'm pleased it didn't. I very much doubt you are the first to be caught out using a new tool. Full credit for owning up to your rare mistakes and learning from them.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks friend. I appreciate you guys so much

[@zenSutherland]

Seriously great work! I have the same problem, and saw what a snarl taking the switch assembly apart (i'm famous for taking things apart and watching springs fly out and jumping into cracks in the universe) so I'm ordering a new switch assembly. Your explanations are very helpful!

[@misterhandy5121]

freaking awesome !!!!! another one from a real teacher , not like these other fake mechanics on you KZbin that are just part changers without even knowing what the actual issue is!!!!! Paul For President!!!

[@wyattoneable]

The detail you include in your videos are well appreciated. It helps me understand more about circuit design.

[@throttlebottle5906]

"trying to do a real quick one here guys" noticed it's 44 minutes of video about the same time I heard it, and that caused a good chuckle :))

[@ScannerDanner]

Lol it would have been if I wasn't such a dumbass in my original explanation of what was going on with the switch and my power probe readings.

[@swlmmrtn]

I have seen these problems so many times in my time working on cars. Everyone should really look into taking the switch apart and getting to know the contacts inside "rocker" switch. They get built up with so much dust and gunk that they simply don't make contact. The down contacts are completely different than the up contacts inside the physical switch itself. I'll bet I've cleaned upwards of 50-60 switches for people over the years and got their windows back to perfect working order with simply contact cleaner, small brush, (sometimes toothbrushes work best), and some dielectric grease. Give it a shot on a known bad switch if a junk pile, you'll be amazed how well it works and how little effort it really takes. Saves money and customers LOVE when you can fix the little things instead of replacing.

[@stevenhzoll7057]

I could never wrap my head around a Power Probe and I know how they allow you to supply batt+ and - to the circuit under test . Yes the incandescent test light (scope on a rope SMA) is still my go to tool and if you know the current carrying capability of the circuit a sealed beam headlight makes a nice load. I agree that the auto down feature cannot function as wired in the Mitchel diagram. Keep up the great work between you, Eric O and Ivan I might just start to figure some of this stuff out Thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice, thank you! I thought maybe I was going crazy with that diagram.

[@theadventuresofjavier8698]

hey Paul ,I know everyone gives you props all the time but I wanted to say I really do appreciate the time you invest in me personally.yes me.love all your videos.when I felt my professional auto tech career was stalling and becoming stagnant I found your videos.they started a fire inside and makes me want to get deeper into auto repair more than just being an r and r guy.God bless you always my brother in Christ.sorry for bein long winded.

[@ScannerDanner]

But I still need to hear this. It keeps me motivated. Thank you so much my brother.

[@D_J_R_S]

ScannerDanner exactly the same story for me. You and Schrödinger's Wrench(that's the channels name, right?) completely flipped my mentality towards the profession that I had grown tired of. I'm forever thankful, because that fire has crept over to other parts of learning in my life. To you, I bow down.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Thank you my friend

[@aussiefirestorm]

Second and/or third the above comments. You have made me want to be a better mechanic, it is better to be good rather than lucky.

[@8953147]

Great explanation, with wire diagram, of reverse polarity switches and switch dissection! DeOx-it works great for cleaning and lubing electrical contacts.

[@roadkill5333]

I've read the schematics, good ones, bad ones, and I still can't figure them out. If someone could tell me once how the auto-down feature operates, I could probably do a little better, but..... I e also tried to diagnose a power window switch from a '96 GM pickup passenger side. I finally just left the switch unplugged, as no one wanted to spend the money on a new switch, and the salvage yards didn't want to warranty the used ones. $40 whether it worked or not. So, we just left it unplugged, as it wouldn't operate correctly from either side, but operated from the drivers side correctly, with it unplugged. Great vid, thanks! And thank Pete for taking one for the team, props to him for letting you "play around" with the electrical stuff!

[@ScannerDanner]

I usually can, but not on this one. I am positive there are mistakes in that diagram. There is no way that auto down module needs 3 or 4 different ground wires.

[@roadkill5333]

ScannerDanner, I wonder if a different source would show the same diagrams, or if there is something wrong with the factory ones? I discovered a factory issue in a motorcycle factory repair manual (not an aftermarket, Clymer or other brands). Mistakes can be made anywhere up the chain. Perhaps you could look at Ivan's (pine hollow auto diagnostics) favorite go to source. BBB Industries. Maybe their diagrams show the correct info. It's a free, public source, not a pro source. But it's usually very good. Just another tool in your bag!!

[@tecnaman9097]

Paul from my experience attempting to fix taxi cab window switches over many years it just ain't worth the trouble.! I used to bodger them using a points file (remember them) to clean the contacts but it always failed. Only did this if I didn't have one to go. Man, I know what you mean when you say patience is needed!

[@pinpointautomotiverepair1592]

Great video on this window circuit. I am also a huge fan of what you did with the diagram, using paint to display voltage measurements through different portions of the troubleshooting. Makes for a very clear and understandable procedure! Tons of great information here to be gained on this system, as well as lessons that can apply easily to others. Wonderful video as always!

[@jackshea6937]

You've motivated me to buy a new $29 switch module and hope for the best: trouble-shooting is god's work - clearly.

[@madmotorrepair1748]

Thanks Paul, much appreciated dedication here, showing how to use a power probe and the directions it can take you, I will keep this in mind!

[@kennethnichols7263]

Great video. I don't have a schematic but what I would expect for the auto down is a self latching circuit. In the old days a relay was used and the switch side of the relay would be put in parallel with the switch. The coil for the relay would be put on the unpowered side of the switch to ground. Once the switch is closed the relay closes its switch side maintaining the voltage on the other side of the switch to keep the relay closed. The latch is now in effect. Now with the window motor this voltage should be enough until the motor hits it end of travel and the motor stalls. When the motor is moving a back emf (electro-motive force) is generated which is proportional to the speed of the motor. This is because all D.C. Motors are also generators. At the end of travel the voltage will disappear and the coil will loose its power and the relay will open delatching the circuit. Now these days the relay may have some kind of transistor circuit to replace the relay. By the way, multiple grounds and power pins may be put on a circuit board due to the limited current carrying capacity of the connector pins. The traces on the board or power/ground planes can be beefed up to carry high currents but there is a spec on the pins which is the limiting factor.

[@stevenknaub55]

I’m no electrical engineer, but I believe when you press the auto down feature, the resistor, works in conjunction with the circuit board to maintain the physical position of the switch you activated until the window meets the end of travel at which time the current exceeds limitations, and the board then releases its control over the mechanical switch and the switch returns to the neutral ground position

[@BigDog50001]

Checking window master switches, especially ones with integrated modules, can be tricky with a Power Probe. Nice video Paul.

[@lovetolearn5253]

pp4 has a continuity test to check the Integrity of the switch great videos but like offer viewer stated the pp4 does have a lot of capabilities I don't even understand half but learning it's fun to learn

[@leifsimmons2464]

I believe the resistor is a current sense resistor. When the motor stalls, current will increase and the voltage drop over the resistor will increase. The "solid state" box in your diagram will be able to detect the voltage difference between "true" ground and motor ground and stop feeding power to the motor.

[@rhkips]

No doubt Pete's a sharp cookie! I just worry that I see so many cars you troubleshoot there with dead batteries. Does Pete feed off DC electricity, and just him being around drains all the nearby batteries? ;D Great video, Paul! The confusion with the Power Probe turned into an excellent teaching opportunity for you, and an excellent learning opportunity for us. Total win! Though, you really should carry around a sheet of 120-grit sandpaper in your glovebox; works great for cleaning dead contacts and a myriad of other things! 120-grit is the WD-40 of sandpaper. :D

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm thinking the same thing! I always have a dead battery when I'm down there. Thanks for the positive reinforcement. I hesitated to upload this video. And thanks for the tips!

[@markchidester6239]

rhkips Maybe Paul needs to get there before lunch time, lol! Great video!

[@Airman..]

Another quality diagnostic job

[@baxrok2.]

Excellent presentation Paul. Good lessons in a couple of areas. Thanks! Oh, and thanks Pete for making this possible.

[@AGuysGarage]

Good Video Mr. Danner, thanks for posting. I like when u post your misunderstandings or stuff you say that isn't entirely accurate, shows the Human side of Utubers, and you are one of the better ones sir. Much Respect and Many Thanks to You. Hats off.

[@michaelmcdowell8801]

that was a lesson in confusing a apprentice. should have looked at that video several times before posting

[@nickayivor8432]

Good Evening ScannerDanner take care and have a great day ScannerDanner God bless you ScannerDanner 👍 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Great tutorial thank you 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@MrTwisted1977]

the auto down function is simply a latching relay or a basic transistor curcuit if u think this is difficult try working on cars with can bus systems.these old Toyota circuits are just child's play to the right person so basic and bog standard it's boring at times diagnosing them.anyway scannerdanner is a champ for going through it in such depth especially the new techs.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Thank you but i disagree that CAN bus systems are more complicated. It's just different, same principles apply to testing an output of a power window module on a network.

[@picoboo5048]

ScannerDanner Premium Do you have any videos about diagnosing comm issues?

[@ScannerDanner]

I have many no com videos from shorted sensors and blown fuses and more recently with the network itself. I have two coming up. Next week on this channel, I will be uploading a no com with the TCM on a 2012 VW Jetta that I filmed with Tommy Wolfe of Positive Lead Diagnostics.

[@picoboo5048]

ScannerDanner ok cool, I've diagnosed network issues before but it would be cool to see how you go about it. Especially with Can systems with Lin buses and all the other protocols I don't remember 😄

[@carlosvaldez3874]

Hi, good video, i have installed 2 power windows to my manual windows. Passenger and rear behind passenger. Have not installed the driver side with master switch, my question is, does it need master switch on driver side installed in order for all the other windows to work?

[@greygoosemafia]

in my 99 ram i did that method. switch it back n fourth and it works now.

[@gvvq-pi5ml]

Hi Paul i think the reason when the switch is in the middle it puts and earth on both sides of the motor, it's kind of like a dynamic brake if you will, they used to do it on wiper motors in the UK in the 1970's to stop the momentum of the motor carrying it over the park switch and carry on working when turned off, when the park switch opened it put an earth across the motor stopping it dead...hope that makes sense...with windows i used to put a bulb in place of the motor as they dont worry about polarity if you put a volt meter in place of it of course it would try to go backward on one side and forward on the other...from Fred in England.

[@2094Ryan]

Great vid buddy, I am glad to see the power probe video, it's something I have in my box but never use as am scared of frying something lol but interested in learning how to use it properly. Please do a power probe video. And am glad you shared it outcome with us lol.

[@donaldlee6699]

My Buick Park Avenue 2002 front driver switch has quit. Power windows. Door locks. And mirror has quit working. I have purchased a ZKZYEE Vehicle Super Probe KM50 to test with. It has been difficult to find anything on the internet about the fuses. I believe the fuse is in the back under the seat? Or under the dash. The Windows quit previously, and the door locks on the driver side. Then, after about (2) two months the light on the switch began flashing. I tried it and it started working again. Now, it has stopped again. And the passenger side has stopped working also? It is difficult to find a specific video for the 2002 Buick Park Avenue. I like your video. I subscribed.

[@edwardjames6070]

those switch assemblies are very similar all throughout toyota. I have a 96 land cruiser and an issue arose with the windows. I know that being a 'parts swapper' is not preferred by you, but $10 and an hour and a half of time and I was able to replace the assembly and have it working by using a switch from a 96 four-runner. after investigating the faulty switch I found corrosion at the faulty contact. now I have a spare switch assembly, and more important, I was able to keep the wife happy.

[@patrickliverpool6487]

Great job Paul you are amazed

[@ozzstars_cars]

With all the rain and melted snow water that door lock/window switches get it interesting they don't short out sooner than later. Manufacturers don't seem to make door switches water tight

[@madyoza3061]

4 grounds would make sense if all the windows have the same auto feature.(I was confused for a second too when you said that). also what if everyone used the windows simultaneously, you would need 4 ground wires not to burn something out.

[@Raulachu]

Solid diagnostic skills mah friend 😎👍

[@nickayivor8432]

SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner Thank you 👍 Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@kirkabrahamson1148]

Great content again. Must be improving Paul, up to 10 haters now lol. Unfortunately most people wouldnt want to pay for a thorough diagnosis on a vehicle of that vintage. Just throw in a 2nd hand switch and hope for the best, but we appreciate the time you put in to teach. The coverage of all aspects of the diagnosis was well detailed mate.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks so much Kirk! This one was difficult to put together

[@josepeixoto3384]

Not really! you cannot do that (use a replacement part) every time,every day! and... use a used one? might be also bad! unless you have in the shop an exact alike car, (almost impossible in a generic shop). Unfortunately,you must be able to troubleshoot.

[@johnkaplanian]

Dear Mr. Paul, maybe sometimes such contacts that resembles old distributors contact points can be cleaned well using sand paper / FYI and thanks you indeed for all these wonderful videos.

[@BigMac2222]

Aw man I was rooting for you too. I've been there with "component" repairs but sometimes it's worse like when you put the switch back in and nothing works now lol.

[@ScannerDanner]

yeah, it was disappointing that I didn't fix it. I'm sure if I spend more time with it I could have. But at least I was able to show where to clean it for others in the future.

[@alpinewhite]

19:15. In an ideal world, there should be zero resistance between where you're tapping and the car's chassis. But there is small resistance between where you're tapping and the chassis. That resistance is fixed, albeit a very low resistance. Remember Ohm's Law, E=IR (voltage = current x resistance). By allowing more current to flow through that section of wire, the voltage drop across that wire just went up. That's why your voltage went up from .05 to .97 volts.

[@playuhhaytuh5633]

Hey man, you make very helpful videos Keep it up 👍🏽

[@mohammednovalija]

I was wondering about the "GREEN" wire you measured. It looked like it was green with some sort coloured spots on it rather than solid gren. Looking at your schematic , there is at least 1 green wire with another colour combined with it as well as a solid green So my thought is you may have measured the wrong wire when testing.

[@theASEtech]

thank you for your videos and for the time you spend in doing and explaining the best thank you

[@stigonutube]

yeah i had this problem on a 1997 nissan last year i found circuit complicated to figure out, lucky i tracked it down to dirt in the switch contacts and after a clean was working again.

[@alpinewhite]

The way I would've done it would be to put a voltmeter across the green (+) and red (-) wire. In the "up" position, you should read +12volts. In the "down" position, you should read negative 12volts.

[@jackshea6937]

Yes! - Why not do it the easy way? Save watching a 44 minute video, (which is great), but speaking for myself, I'd prefer to just get on and fix it - life's too short.

[@josepeixoto3384]

There is no neg. 12V ; there is ONLY +12V and 0V(ground) but i get what were saying

[@alpinewhite]

The voltage you read on the DMM is the voltage of the red wire relative to the black wire. If you switched the red and black wire, you will read a negative voltage.

[@freddyflores6412]

I always just use a multimeter to diagnose window problems . Just back probe both wires at the same time and then push switch either way . Then look at your voltage reading .

[@ScannerDanner]

Definitely multiple ways to troubleshoot these. Thanks for the comment.

[@little739]

Hello, Paul If you didn't get battery voltage in the down position of the red wire, would you still apply 12v to the green wire in the UP position? With perseverance and your guidance, I now understand the diagram and have answered my own question. Thanks for the video.

[@robertmedina6875]

GREAT JOB PETER & DANNER!!

[@cwj9202]

I would assume the solid state device serves as an electronic latching device during the auto down function, and so that part would not be displayed in the electrical schematic. I prefer to utilize my DVOM, not the test light, to check the loaded voltage readings and see the loaded ground circuit voltage rise. Good video as always. Keep up the great work.

[@leedress2187]

brake clean would've cleaned up those contacts.. Just kidding. I always have a can of quick dry contact cleaner around for stuff like this. i think you had further damage away from the contacts though.. . love your thought process though. Keep up the good work!

[@fredflintstone8048]

I agree that the diagram does not appear to reflect the circuit which holds the power on the window motor to travel all the way down, or all the way up automatically. My guess is that it will be some kind of transistors or FETs in parallel with the manual switchs. It is also my guess that the resistor in the diagram that is more than likely clamped by the diode (notice it's in the circuit with reverse polarity) is the circuit that tells the solid state control when the window has reached the end of the travel. The amount of current through that resistor will increase sharply when the motor reaches the end of the travel creating a voltage drop seen by the controller to turn off the window motors. Typically a diode is used as a clamp to prevent the voltage drop from being too great due to high current draw thus damaging the input that monitors the voltage drop. Regarding the circuit board being damaged, what I believe we're seeing is not burned connections, but instead soldering flux that was not cleaned off. It could indicate an attempted repair in the past, or a rework at the factory due to defect.

[@ScannerDanner]

Great insight! Thank you. I only mentioned the "burnt" contacts for the untrained eye. That would be the first thing they would see and I wanted to make a point that, that was not what you're looking for. You would be correct, "burnt" was not the right word to use.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Oh, and I forgot to mention, great video! I really enjoy the discussions about the voltages found on grounds, loaded and unloaded, and how those things can help us determine a problem. As you point out, the amount of current flowing through a circuit will determine the voltage drop so the more current the higher the voltage will be above ground, or battery negative. The same holds true on the positive side, or really anywhere in the circuit. The perfect wire, or circuit would have zero resistance, but that's never the case. Wires, switches, connectors all provide a little resistance in the circuit and will thus provide a voltage drop proportionate the the amount of resistance, and the amount of current. Ohms law. It's a thinking mans game, and rewarding as well when we understand how it works. We need the money of course, but it's satisfying to work on these things when we come to understand what's going on. Again, thanks for sharing another great video.

[@ย่ากะปู่]

Thank you very very much verygood video👍🙏

[@kevinedward1234]

Paul, I have a PP4, if you read the owners manual, it states what the led lights mean. It can be tricky to learn all the features of the PP4.

[@ScannerDanner]

yes it can for sure.

[@arcburn3364]

I never carried a spit cup for my chewing tobacco in my welding trucks, so I gave my drivers side window switch a workout.

[@USA4thewin]

na man awesome I used baby wipes and cue tips my windows is working great again thank you so much for the video.. Note there is a nasty spring for the window lock the square one took me a while to figure that one out and install it properly

[@mikeanderson1994]

man ur amazing i watch all ur videos and ur the best i liked scotty kilmer and eric the car guy i mean u 3 are the best in youtube keep up the good work best regards to all

[@nemanjadzombic6101]

On 500 likes statistically there has to be certain number of dislikes. But 31 is a bit to much. I guess people who dislike, they do that because they were thinking this is gonna be simple fix. But whatching it and having difficulties understanding it, make them angry. I can't possibly see any other reason to dislike this video. It would be really interesting to read explanation for hiting dislike button. I like simple solutions but if there is no one, what then? Parts changing - You're definitely on the wrong channel and that's not autor's fault.

[@selador11]

I have this car. I have this problem. Just started watching the vid, hoping to get a solution. Just a remark, first. That auto feature... Is that "auto" light supposed to ALWAYS glow dimly? Mine does. Always. Key on, key off, key completely removed, everything turned off. The light glows dimly, no matter what.

[@jamesward5721]

The switch is burnt, but it being bad is a red herring - note how much slower the motor was going up - it's intermittently bad itself & that's what fried the switch - the motor needs changing as well. Cleaning it in this case most likely won't work as it will be the sealed plastic gear wheels that are binding & you can't get at them. If you can make the switch work again, swap out that window motor too, or the fix won't last. :-( I was at the identical all morning today.. BTW if people don't have a power probe ( I do) you can run the window motor with a cheapo 12v variable power-supply, just swap the +/- over to go between up & down, it will run the motor no problem, might get you out of a pinch if you have a bad switch & a window that is "stuck" down. In todays case for me, which is identical to that ^^, I will swap out the switch & the window motor for good used ones, because just fixing the switch will only work for a little while till it fries again. Change both. :-)

[@renatovivanco8002]

I love simple test light

[@josealzurut2956]

Hi good video, I have the same problem with the driver´s windows (IS there a fusible or relay to check it?. I cleaned all master swithc window

[@all-about-programming]

You always the best... ...Can you tell me where I can get the best wiring diagram please

[@rku840]

I doubt the circuit diagram is complete, where is the thermal switch? I have my camry drive side powered window problem. When going down initially no problem, but when going up a short distance it stops, then I need to wait for few minutes before it can move a little bit up again. To fully close the window it has to stop a few times and each time a few minutes before I can reactivate.

[@throttlebottle5906]

I'd guess the resistor is there for the "auto" feature to sense motor current, which seems redundant since the grounds go to the "magical solid state circuit" or the diagram is plain wrong/missing other things

[@paulmeehan1978]

thanks Pete for the video nice of you to do that

[@Jpilgrim30]

Early 2000 GM trucks are bad about solder joints cracking in the abs control module. I pull those all of the time and resolder them. Easy money all labor.

[@jpintrick84]

you ever run into a broken wire in the door jam I run into that all the time wear the harness goes into the door the wires Flex a lot and end up breaking inside the casing talk on them a little bit the broken one will stretch just fix that on my Ford Explorer only took 2 days LOL

[@RAFICKDAMISONMOYO]

Scanner danner subscriber forever ❤❤❤

[@jaakkomarin1789]

Could the resistor inside the switch be a shunt resistor for the autodown solid state circuit to be able to measure current flow of the switch via voltage drop across the resistor?

[@robertofkennedy]

your probe has power feed test and ground driver test it calculates resistance in the circuit and gives you a reading in ohms

[@superchin2818]

Good work

[@amr-50]

you are genius man

[@toppledgod]

I'm really surprised you don't carry contact cleaner, it's amazing at removing carbon deposits!

[@ScannerDanner]

I'll add it to my toolbox! This didn't look like something any cleaner would help with.

[@theASEtech]

Even though Pete is learnig too thanks Pete

[@TomTremayne]

Dude, can you come over to London and fix my windows!!! I've got power to the switch, passenger side, took the switch apart and it's mechanically sound, changed the motor as well but still my passenger side window goes down but not up and doesn't respond at all from the master driver's side switch. Maybe it's the contacts, dirty where the naked eye can't see, maybe the Italian wiring has failed, maybe it's something else entirely, who knows!

[@ScannerDanner]

We can help you on my forum. IT is free to join www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html Hope to see you there! We definitely need to look at a wiring diagram

[@Asian_Connection]

HELP!!!! Your videos are great. I love my 1997 4runner Ltd with 240k also. I want keep it runner forever. Can you help me with one issue that I can't solve. My passenger door window only goes down but not up. I have replaced the window motor already but it is still having the same issue. I tried both driver and passenger side buttons, checked the fuse but they both can't bring the window up. Can you give me a few pointers in troubleshooting the issue. Thanks.

[@ScannerDanner]

broken wire in the door jam most likely

[@hellomoto8203]

Hey Paul how can you address excessive voltage drop in this situation? Assumed source voltage from the battery is at full charge, would you find yourself chasing wire for excessive resistance, like the door jam?

[@ScannerDanner]

Give me a time frame to check on your question. Thanks!

[@hellomoto8203]

Thanks for your quick reply! During this video, I was thinking about what would you do if when applying the load (using the window's switch) you saw 4-5 volts instead of 11-12, or in your case 8-9 because of a strained battery. My thoughts are corrosion at the connector, moisture in the wire at some point perhaps..

[@ironmike742]

The extra grounds are to help carry the amperage and keep resistance and heat down

[@verajavi12]

polarity led lights have also threw me off on both low volts= no red led light and no green light when expected because of voltage thresholds in power probe internal circuitry.it was really bad on power probe 1,later power probes had a digital voltage reading that enable u to trust the voltage reading more than the red or green LEDs.often times old school test lights are just better because of simplicity.

[@konquerorx]

Mr Paul! Just a question sir. I have a Toyota Camry 1996 equivalent called a Toyota Windom. I'm not sure if it's in the states. Basically it has these frameless windows. Similar to the Subaru's. So when you close it, the window suppose to drop slightly, to shut the door, or open it. I've tried to initialize the windows but that did not work. So I'm unsure how to approach this one. Thanks in advance sir

[@ScannerDanner]

I do not know my friend. Post it to my forum. I have thousands of members from all over the world. Someone may be able to help you. Thanks! www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@1weirddoe571]

I smashed the two LEDs on my passenger side switch that illuminates can I solder in some Christmas light LEDs will that be good enough?

[@ScannerDanner]

:-) not sure

[@tboneproductions2453]

Damn, no happy ending! Sorry, couldn’t help myself😊

[@joachimjohan1215]

yeeeeeeeehhhaaaa....... i dont think so.....: "trying to do a real quick one here guys" HAhehh i love it!!

[@blingmotions6996]

I was checking a control like that one but no doors work no light in the control, only the door lock button work nth else and i fine know broken fuse..plz help

[@1weirddoe571]

SD, my (FORD 2000 Windstar) motor ohms infinity or randomly 1-2M Ohms. Isn't there a fusible link inside that's supposed to protect the motor? What about the windings in the motor? How do you know one of the loops of the windings is not open even though the rest of the motor is okay? How do you know if one of the loops isn't open and the motor still works so-so that you can't tell the difference? Show less

[@ScannerDanner]

I need a time frame of a specific test I was doing to answer your question, it is too broad otherwise. Thanks!

[@1weirddoe571]

@@ScannerDanner, I Ohmed the motor wires and got "infinity" or 1-2MOhms. Then reconnected since had +/-12V switched and kept banging closed the door while depressing up/down and it started working again. (Even, before, connected straight battery to motor and still couldn't jump it up or down.) Now I don't have to rip door apart. Much Thanks.

[@tnamen1307]

Sir my car i20 windows motor connector has 6 wires on it. How to get the wires for roll up and down windows?

[@Boro-Lineman]

Resistance in series voltge drop over each resistor the motor was dropping the majority of the battery voltage as lower resistance than the one in tne switch the 0.97 volts is the voltage drop in ths switch the ground on the other side of tbe switch resistor will be close to 0v

[@toothless_2v594]

I looked at my window switch and my circuit board is broken in half lol. Guess my diag is done 🤣

[@billyr9840]

Nice !

[@uptownimports-foreignautor5338]

What software do you use to highlight the circuit? I'd like to have it for my techs so they can highlight circuits.

[@ScannerDanner]

It is part of my Smart Notebook program for our Smart Boards at the school

[@faizanautos3764]

What is this software or website, you use for wiring diagrams... plz tell me free website for free wiring diagrams...

[@ScannerDanner]

It is called shopkeypro and is a $150 a month program. There is a DIY version where you can purchase a 1 month pass for your car for $20 which gives you access to the same material I show. www.eautorepair.net/marketing/html/about_us.asp?VID=&Count=Y