Completely upgrading an existing 120/ 240V electrical service to 200 AMPS

[@dchambers986]

I installed 400A 480V 3PH power to my shop completely on my own, from the 3' ponytail to the 100' run of 80 A for the 50 HP blower. Installed the R3 exterior enclosure, meter box, weatherhead, hung the conduit, pulled the wire, loads of runs mostly 8, 10 and 12 awg - all based on reading the NFPA NEC Book. I do my homework. Also I have a BSEE. There is always more to learn! I liked your video. I thought Entergy (the local Power Co.) might give me a headache, but they sent out an EE/field engineer - I told him what I wanted and what my plan was, no one ever asked about a license or inspection or permits or anything. This was outside the city limits (county) and I had already looked up the state law, which said it was legal to do the work on your own property yourself - this was 10 years ago in Arkansas.

[@johnrosas2606]

I’m not an electrician; but I like to learn how electricity works. The bonding of neutral and grounding conductor has been a mystery to me and where to join and where to keep it separate. You explained it very well. For those that do understand this important part of panel installation it may be redundant information. For me I wouldn’t mind hearing it in other videos too just to drive this bonding of ground/ neutral into my head. I appreciate the knowledge you’re sharing with us.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

The grounding electrodes and grounding electrode conductors ALWAYS get terminated at the main disconnect, the service disconnect. Here, the grounded neutral from the service is BONDED to the grounding electrodes. At this BONDING location is where the equipment grounding conductor is derived. The key to understanding this better is to understand that the grounded neutral conductor from the service and the grounded neutral in each of our branch circuits and feeders, are current carry conductors. The equipment grounding conductors and grounding electrode conductors do not intentionally carry current unless there's a fault condition. Hope this helps.

[@zachw4829]

As a young sparky in NJ I love how informative these videos are. Really helpful for a guy like me starting my career. Appreciate all your hard work Ron!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Pay it forward. That’s what it’s all about. Be the best electrician you can be!

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Love watching your videos, clear and concise when you explain why something is a violation and include a code reference of the said violation. As a sparky in the Greenville SC area, whenever I see breakers from a different manufacturer installed in an older panel, often the reason was because the manufacturer of the panel in question went out of business or brought out by another company, OEM parts are no longer available or cost prohibitive and a breaker needed to be added or replaced. In this situation, assuming the panel is in good condition and has adequate capacity, classified breakers are available and listed for use in panels from different manufacturers including for panels not manufactured in decades such as Federal Pacific Electric, Zinsco, and Bulldog/Pushmatic, although you'll most likely have to order them online from an electrical supplier.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Yes, Cutler-Hammer makes listed circuit breakers for other/ older manufacturers like Challenger and I-T-E. Watch out because they can be expensive, really expensive. As a company policy I do not add to any FPE or Zinsco panels because of the liability with those panels.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey I do mostly new construction, and so I haven't seen an FPE panel in service for about 8 years, and we also DO NOT trust those classified breakers listed as a "safe" replacement to the original FPE breaker, we give the customer two options, a) the panel goes in the dumpster where it should have went before it left the factory, and a new panel gets installed, or b) find another electrician willing to take the liability. If my word of advice isn't enough, there's your friend Google, and failing that, I literally have the scars to prove what happens when a two pole FPE breaker fails to trip on a 240V short. Back in 2013 before I decided to become a sparky, I was at my friends polebarn unplugging an arc welder from a 50 amp surface mount receptacle, ran with a metal conduit system with the conduit used as the equipment grounding conductor. The plastic housing disintegrated and the contacts broke free touching each other and the metal box. Both the 50 amp breaker and the main failed to trip. I remember dropping with my T shirt on fire, after which I crawled for at least 30 feet to smother myself out and to get out and call 911 from my cellphone which was in my car. Molten metal was flying all around me which set fire to shop towels and some paint cans, paint thinner and what have you before ultimately reaching the oxygen-propane cutting torch rig. The roof collapsed before the fire department arrived and the primary fuse on the pole transformer blew. I spent 5 days in the hospital with first and second degree burns to my hand, arms and stomach. I want to thank my lucky stars I'm still here to tell the tale and help raise awareness about these problematic panels. Neither myself nor my friend had any idea about the problem or that him, his wife and infant daughter were living in a powder keg ready to ignite.

[@sethtaylor5938]

Hello from Florida. Retired substation engineer @ JCP&L. I used to calculate available fault current for electricians.

[@johnnytoobad7785]

My Godson is currently near the end of his training to become a licensed electrician in CT. I am a retired Electrical Engineer who "dabbles" in home wiring upgrades. I literally re-wired my basement for "sound". I am recommending your channel to him..as part of his ongoing education and to learn "best practices".

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

That's terrific! It's a great trade and you can become very successful very quickly if you put the work in. Getting an electrical license is the key.

[@mikedfranklin]

Real nice job, Ron. Great to see a Jersey guy knockin it out of the park with your professional workmanship!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

You're very kind. Thank you!

[@arthurmiller8336]

One of the problems i had with putting in new circuit breakers in an old box sometimes they don't make them anymore so they're not available so that's why that there's different ones in there but your situation you're putting all brand new stuff which makes it a lot easier

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@arthurmiller8336 Different circuit breakers is a violation, readily available or not. The panel listing dictates what breakers can be installed. NEC 110.3 (B)

[@russrockino-rr0864]

Always love your videos, Ron. We always did 40-40 200 amp Panels when I did Residential. That was before AFCI"s too. The extensive use of LED Lighting Circuits will hopefully offset some of the Load rise from Electric Vehicles. Thanks, Russ, 29 years in the Electrical Trade.

[@manuellastrollo2168]

i like your video Sir. start of your video shows a violation & shows clearly what section. i love the way you start. first timer from your channel.

[@ElectroAtletico]

Working the Mid-Shift, drinking coffee, enjoying a fun vid!

[@jrpritchard1622]

Awesome workmanship Ron have a great week be safe

[@mattmiller8251]

Love your videos as always! I like when my mains coming into the panel come in beside the lugs so i don't take up so much room in the side of the panel.

[@brianleb]

Great work Ron! I successfully upgraded my home to 200a thanks to your videos and how much I was able to learn. Not as beautiful as your work, but I am very proud of it, thanks again.

[@JamesJones-in4bi]

Hey Ron. Thanks for the video. I have normal shelves in my van . I have some space behind the Husky organizers that I stack a variety of scrap lumber (1x2, 2x2, 2x4, 1x6, 2x6), for when I need to shim something out like a nail-on box away from a door trim/corner, a fart fan, or a load center, etc... Thank you.

[@elangomattab]

Thanks for recommending minimum of 40 full size breakers for new panel installs. My panel is an old Square D QO with 200 amps but only has 30 breaker spaces with 6 of those allowing twin breakers. I don't have any double breakers yet but my panel is full due mostly to my electric heating system. I don't even have space for an EV charger right now even if i could afford an EV.

[@mohammadmarkazi5555]

You Have great work Ron. I am Master electrician in Toronto ON and always like your professional work. Big Thanks

[@davidkirby3667]

I sure do agree with your 40-circuit panel for a 200 A service. In my all-electric home, over the years I had to installed two sub panels. One was when we upgraded our kitchen and then we put in a Hot Tub. However, if you have a home with natural gas that serves the Oven, heat and other gas appliances it could be a reason to put in a smaller panel.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

200 amps is the best value here, especially for homes older than 50 years.

[@elangomattab]

I'm in a similar boat to you. 50 year old all electric home with resistive heating basically talking up half of my 30 slot main panel. AC, stove, and dryer are all relegated to my single subpanel. At this point if i need more circuits I would need to free up some space (up to 6) with twin breakers or another subpanel. I want to look at getting a variable speed heat pump installed to replace both AC and heating. I'd get almost half my panel back if I disconnected all of the current zoned heating.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

@@davidkirby3667 that or if your home currently has an electric range and unfinished basement, and the main panel is full but there is a natural gas or propane furnace/water heater, during a major renovation where circuits need to be added, you could replace the electric range with a gas model, and reuse the cable for the range as a subpanel if it's the modern 4 prong receptacle wired with 8-3 or 6-3 w/ ground cable, or replace the SE cable or two wire NM with a 3 wire. The electric clothes dryer can be replaced with a gas dryer and plugged into the 20 amp laundry circuit to free up two more slots in the panel as well. Since almost all dryers are on a 30 amp circuit, it would be less practical to use the dryer circuit as a subpanel.

[@spudman9367]

Another great video! Went to trade school in 1970 and completed electrical apprenticeship 1974. How things have changed. Your work is a clear sign of your professionalism. Thanks also for the response to my question about main disconnect/ emergency disconnect.

[@doc13067]

Haha you are a madman getting shocked so high up. Respect. Come over to the dark side and put the main on the bottom when feeding from the bottom. I promise youll love it. I absolutely love your videos and watch almost every day. One of the few who shows the entire job and responds to comments. Do you do all of this without a helper?

[@electricaltimelapsetest5713]

Try the rack a tiers 6in impact bit that has #2 square drive on one side and Phillips on the other. It's awesome.

[@0blivioniox864]

Cool vid. love watching these.. Heat's crazy out there man - stay hydrated

[@seeps766]

Do you not need an expansion fitting in the pvc riser? Just curious Nice job

[@scottfabre239]

Great video Bro! I didn't know there was such a thing as a whole house surge protector that can reside in a place meant for breakers I will definitely look into this for my panel!

[@Scotty_in_Ohio]

I will ask for an external disconnect when I have my service panel replaced. Very helpful for upgrades and changes down the road.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

They are required by the code.

That was an excellent video. I watched the whole thing from start to finish. Great work!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Thank you!

@@electricianron_New_Jersey You're welcome.

[@ClayAdams-zj8yf]

How come pvc for the riser and not emt? 37 year electrician in Texas. Like seeing how other electricians do it in other parts of the country.

[@ClayAdams-zj8yf]

Also are you not allowed to turn your panel upside down or do you just no choose to?

[@kahlil4745]

A lot of apprentices have journeyman that are burnt out and don't teach them shit - that was my apprenticeship anyway. So, these channels are very helpful. Also, if you like new belts and stuff, give the Diamond back "sparky" package a try. Best belt and pouches I have ever used. Question: Your service entry cable is a four wire (2 hots, neutral and ground) - so why run the number two Al from the main service disconnect outside to the water pipe inside? The ground wire from the four wire bonds the meter and disco to the panel inside. From the inside panel you can take your number 6 (or 2 Al) to the water pipe. But going back outside with it isn't needed at that point. All you need is the copper #6 to the two ground rods out there. That is that point where you separated ground from neutral. Four wire comes into the panel, take the strap off the panel between neutral and ground bus bars and land your neutral and ground accordingly (separated). Then you can take the #6 copper from the ground bus to the water pipe.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Go to apprenticeship school because you’ll need it to get your license in NJ!

[@OSAS726]

The bonding jumper provides a link between the equipment grounding system and the neutral that goes back to the center tap on the transformer. It helps provide that low impedance path back to neutral whenever there is a ground fault.

[@dyelon13]

What shocked you when you were tying the wires together at the top of the service mast? Wouldn’t everything be de energized?

[@Th3Su8]

Looks nice and tidy, good job. I have personally never liked using PVC on the outside of a building unless it is just a short bit exposed after coming out of the ground. UV from the sun does a nasty job on PVC. It also seems like no matter how many straps you put on the conduit, it will still droop, bend and go all funky on you.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Not if you use expansion fittings as required and PVC straps which are also an NEC requirement.

[@binaryglitch64]

My Dad taught me, he owns his own electrical company and he would bid a low base value bid "with options" similar to options when you buy a new car... so base value comes with a 20 circuit panel, no service loops, and lighting circuits on 14awg where possible, but you could opt to upgrade those things at a given price. I don't remember his prices but just for example it might be a $150 upgrade for the 40 circuit pannel and $50 per 100 sq ft for service loops and well lighting circuits on 12 wire makes even less sense nowadays cuz everythings on LEDs but you get the idea.

[@pstew124]

Seal of approval for top electrician who also listens to Motorhead's 'Ace of Spades' .

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Ozzys Bondyard 🤘

[@dchambers986]

If you already have plans to install a 24 breaker, 125 Amp subpanel in a utility closet off the kitchen (midway point in the house), don't you think a 24 breaker main panel would be enough, even for 200 Amp service? I'm about to rewire my grandmothers old house (we moved into the country, many acres for our fruit trees and animals) - it has 100 Amp service and probably a 20 breaker main box now, but as you mentioned, this is barely adequate for a modern home. And thanks for these videos, you are helping a lot of guys get it done the right way, at least the ones that want to learn. I started my first job in the trades as a gopher on large house build in '85 - my summer job at 11 years old. I made a $1/hour - as much as $50/week - I was RICH! Boy things have changed but I like the old school ways. I love the code book references, please keep putting those in, start forming those good habits early.

[@w1sers]

Nice vid as always Ron, but I'm always surprised how fast you go from planning to drilling/coring through walls. Have you ever hit studs/rebar when going from inside to outside of a home, and how would you remedy that situation seeing as the damage is already done.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

I just edit that out of the video. Haha kidding. I make mistakes and I’ll always make it right with my customers. The first step is to take responsibility for the error.

[@rswind1964]

Check with NFPA 54, "National Fuel Gas Code" for the clearance requirements. You will find the three foot requirement from the meter to spark producing equipment in Section 5.7.2.3, "Gas meters shall be located at least 3 ft. (0.9 m) from sources of ignition." hummm is this true. Looks like great work.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@rswind1964 it might be true for new builds but this house was built in the 50’s so here in New Jersey we follow the Rehabilitation Subcode for existing structures. The gas and electric were there next to each other for half century. Now there’s a problem?

[@unstableatbest]

Hi Ron, have you considered using a Meter Main, by chance? All-in-one meter socket and disconnect, with some added benefits: They can eat the surge protector and save room in the main panel, and they offer some breaker slots outdoors for a future spa or anything that would need a trench.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Thanks!

[@voltstoamps120]

Only 1 NJ POCO allows those but hopefully more will soon. The one he was dealing with the video is definitely a no to that because they actually own the meter can.

[@unstableatbest]

@@voltstoamps120 Ahhh I see. Thanks for the info sir.

[@jackpestaner6925]

Great video Ron, I just upgraded my VA house from 100A overhead to 200A UG service and 100% rewire to code as it had 100 year old knob and tube. Got permits for the whole project since VA allows a homeowner to do their own work on their own home. Some things I picked up and saw you did: bushings on all the large cables (code required), and duct seal on the pass-thru inside and out. One thing AHJ cautioned me was to maintain 36 inches from the gas meter, your thoughts? Finally I have an old set of insulated gloves given to me from my industrial electrician pal; they are all dated to expire due to deterioration, but probably for 240 volts they are okay as long as they arent cracked or brittle. Be safe out there, glad to see you are getting a new ladder!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Like for like for upgrades here in NJ so if there’s a gas meter nearby on an old home I’m not required to move it.

[@ArtVanAuggie]

Cutler Hammer BR panel? Eaton BR panel or Eaton CH panel. I prefer CH PON panels and install extra ground bars. Does your Disconnect switch panel (outside) have a surge protector integrated into it? Thanks, great videos.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@ArtVanAuggie this is a plug on neutral panel and the surge protection is in the panel too.

[@BearStar1]

In TX we mainly use SD Homeline or SD Q panels or GE panels.

[@thecodingchicken]

Just would like to state...at least for the utility i work for, we dont do parallel runs for 400a services, its just 350mcm for the two hots and 4/0 for the neutral. But, 600a services(ive ran two for houses) are two runs of 350mcm.

[@anthonyelectric6045]

Nice work Ron👍. And yes that ladder scares me also. Did many services that were wayyyy up there. BTW did you have to give the power company a load calculation for the 200amp upgrade?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

No, I was not asked for a load calculation. The only time I'm asked for a load calculation has been for adding EVSE and standby generators permit applications usually require it.

[@anthonyelectric6045]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey agreed. I had some power companies just ask why I’m upgrading due I guess to the size of the tub and or incoming triplex( not my problem) thanks Ron👍

[@billhandymanbill2775]

Great video! Thanks! I would be nervous about putting in the ground rods so close to the underground natural gas line even though you are on the other side of the meter away from the street side.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@billhandymanbill2775 it was actually marked out at the street.

[@detroitjohn4724]

NEC specifies 25 OHMS of resistance on ground. Testing of grounding rods with grounding tester ?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@detroitjohn4724 we’re trying to achieve 25 Ω or less to provide a low impedance path

[@AlanAssuncao08]

Hey Ron what great job. Another great vídeo

[@kustomkulture4308]

Do you have to put the main disconnect panel in? I’m in chicago area and I don’t see those here.

[@rickelliott777]

This guy is not an Electrician... He is an Artist beautiful work 👍👍🍺🍺

[@mackfisher4487]

Nice job Ron, hope you bid it T&M. question what are your inspectors say about bonding to the buildings metallic gas supply?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

EGC for the furnace bonds the metal gas piping.

[@GlenMacNeil]

Great job Ron. Thanks for the video. Do you require locates every time you drive ground rods?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Rarely. It’s a good idea to locate where the gas main and water mains are in the house. This’ll give you a general idea where those enter the home.

[@mrpriceisright]

Nice explanations going along. I was thinking the main breaker panel (bottom feed) could be inverted, to shorten the main feed and also make it easier to reconnect the existing house circuit wires? Eaton specs that all indoor panels are able to be inverted, just not any of the outdoor panels. My big question is whether the meter base is grounded or not?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

The meter base is always grounded. The lugs where the service neutral conductors are terminated have a connection to the enclosure that automatically makes this connection. Good question!

[@johnkulpowich5260]

How did you get away with putting aluminum ground wire on a bronze ground clamp

[@ptso7580]

I remembered a inspector failed us for having main disconnext and meter within 6 foot from the gas meter and lines. Had to call sayin the gas is being omitted it was on the pern. It was a Monday. 😊

[@throttlebottle5906]

aluminum sided homes were bonded to water lines and not always directly at the utility service, I've seen many over the years bonded to spigots and tied to lightning rod systems. you'll get a heck of zap on it, that's for sure and you should really wear gloves for any live work, even more so on a ladder, where it could cause a fall. nobody want's to fall.

[@billyblanks6985]

What size are your service entrance wires? I never heard you mention that. I was thinking that you'd be using 3/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum?

[@jmcqueston5759]

Why did the panel mounting board have to extend down in front of the ledge, which then required you to have to add spacer blocking?

[@nabeellughmani940]

IS the neutral and ground separated here and do we have to separate neutral and ground when we have disconnect outside,

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@nabeellughmani940 downstream from the main disconnect only.

[@nabeellughmani940]

@@electricianron_New_JerseyThanks!

[@vincentpereira8416]

You do really nice work

[@umbrellahole]

12:25 I really have no room to say anything but, wouldn't it have been easier to cut the bottom of the board you added so it was able to fit above the concrete that was making it too far off the wall instead of supporting the board with more wood?!

[@ammaraldulaimi3237]

Is there any requirement for how far the electrical panel should be from the gas meter?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

600'

[@SteveN-sy4bm]

Really like your videos, does it matter which lugs on the disconnect are load / line…. I need to go out the top and in the square d disconnect there is not enough room to loop around and keep a professional look to the wiring. So I want to connect on the bottom and just go straight out of the top lugs. Thanks

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

No, the top is always the LINE side and the bottom is always the LOAD side. The paperwork explains all of this so don't make this mistake.

[@quadcityracing]

Do any meter sockets have the breaker disconnect built in for the new code?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@quadcityracing Yes

[@johnrosas2606]

Great informative video. Thanks !

[@96jnu4546]

The ground is or should be a #2 soledgroy #2 ground wire

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@96jnu4546 the EGC or the GEC?

[@JeepLJ]

What wire are you running to the grounding rods from the disconnect? Can you use copper 6 awg thhn wire for this?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@JeepLJ #6 AWG

[@JeepLJ]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey thank you!

[@spree1948]

My house is similar but the cables enter through the concrete bottom part of the house. Can I run an extension pipe from the disconnect to the concrete and use the same part you have u set the disconnect? Or does it have to connect directly to the disconnect? Also, what brand cable and size do you use for a 200 amp upgrade?

[@jfowler702910]

Why did you install a main breaker panel along with a main breaker disconnect? Is the exterior service entrance disconnect required by code now? Years ago if I was putting in a main breaker panel I would come directly out of the meter housing and right into the main breaker panel with my service kick. There wouldn't be any exterior disconnect unless the main panel was located more than 3 ft inside the dwelling. If so then we would use a main breaker exterior disconnect with an interior main lug panel.

[@Truckguy1970]

I was always told that if you can't turn a bolt or a nut by hand then something is wrong. A lot of people make the mistake of trying to force it the rest of the way with a wrench or a screwdriver and they end up crossthreading it or blowing out the threaded hole and end up ruining expensive parts

[@timsullivan3525]

Hi Ron! Great work, do you typically work alone?

[@dalepres1]

If you're putting in a new panel today, as in an upgrade or new build, along with the number of circuits, you should consider using a generator ready panel, as well. Whole house generators are getting cheaper and more common.

[@Scotty_in_Ohio]

I was thinking about the same - at least room at the top for a lockout circuits at the top. Ultimately, the home owner might feel they don't have enough outages in that area...

[@davelavigne2133]

Why do you have a main breaker outside and then the 200A breaker at the box? Don't you only need one for code?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

In case they want an interlock for generator wiring.

[@ScottHetzel]

Nice job... that romex above the garage door not legal here in california...needs to be in metal flex or conduit. Here we would set the meter and let the local power company bring power to meter. Obviously your doing a hot connection.

[@BassmanII]

Question on the 20 circuit 200A panel. What about adding a 20 circuit subpanel. Would that be sufficient?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@BassmanII Of course you could that but you would be taking up two spaces to supply the feeder to the sub panel.

[@BassmanII]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey so then probably bumping the sub to a 24 space

[@trpblr]

@Electrician Ron - are power feeds from transformers generally oversized already? Just curious as you upgraded the feed from the meter up to the interconnect, but those are the same old feeder cables coming from the pole. I need to do a similar upgrade and I thought I might need new cables from the pole.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

ask the utility company.

[@stanbecks1097]

Great video, I just curious, why did you sink two grounding rods, are you going to parallel grounds from the box? 1 to the cold water pipe, and two from the grounding rods?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

The ground rods and water main ground make up the grounding electrode system.

[@gardenjohn1]

Ron, great video. I am in this 20 circuit panel in a 2011 home, with no available space for a 20 amp double pole breaker for surge protection. I live in Delaware, Murray panel with some square d breakers, What do I need to have done for 20 amp double pole breaker? Thanks

[@slipstreamvids7422]

Very nice work. Two questions on the west coast here. Does this install meet the requirements for distance from the gas entrance. Why a separate outside disconnect? Doesn’t the panel have a main breaker?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Natural gas pipe there is of no concern. The disconnect is required.

[@apostleyayaHsu]

what is the distance between the gas meter and the electrical meter? It might be too close in my jurisdiction.

[@jasnapon]

Good job Ron

[@MrStebe120]

Hi Ron, great work! I didn't see, but did you use any kind of sealant for your screws and holes?

[@1219ess]

Does the electric company provide every home with 200amp conductors?

[@davidmontalvo6560]

Awesome video. Very detailed. If you don’t mind me asking, what’s a job like that cost? More or less of coarse.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@davidmontalvo6560 $4000-$5000 depending on conditions.

[@jackkreighbaum783]

Is it necessary to separate the neutrals and grounds in the electrical panel when it isn't the first disconnect?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Yes.

[@gregadventures2024]

QUESTION- Why did you bond to water main and install ground rods ?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@gregadventures2024 because National Electrical Code requires it.

[@gregadventures2024]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey yes code requirement for ground rods but is piping bonded just because it’s exposed?

[@oscar27ization]

You ended up with a # 6 for your rod electrodes and a # 4 cu for you water main electrode and a # 4cu for your equipment grounding conductor inside your main disconnect. Total of 3 green wires? What size LB did you use for your feeder conductors?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@oscar27ization 2” PVC

[@kamilpikos3497]

Is it required to run grounding wire to meter enclosure?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@kamilpikos3497 the meter is bonded by the utility grounded conductor.

[@kamilpikos3497]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey the reason I am asking is that there is a label inside meter box enclosure: “GROUNDING WIRE SHALL BE SECURELY FASTENED TO THE GROUND TERMINAL LUG IN THE LINE COMPARTMENT” My setup looks like your on the video: meter box and then pvc conduit to main disconnect switch and then to panel (4 wires) as the bonding is done in main disconnect switch. WITH NO BREAKS IN THE GROUND WIRE.”

[@DavidKingmasterWV]

Do you like the PVC all thread it comes in inch and a quarter and two inches

[@DavidKingmasterWV]

The all thread would be good for your back to back install from the meter can and the disconnect to the panels it would save you cutting the PVC using male adapters the all thred is good

[@unept96]

Watched the entire video and have a question... Why is it necessary to have ground going to both the water main AND the ground rods? Just curious, thanks.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@unept96 Lightning ⚡️ induces a voltage on the service conductors. The ground rods and copper water pipe provides a path to ground for the lightning to dissipate its charge.

[@HenryLoenwind]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey Not just that. It also ensures that there's no potential difference between grounded electrical appliances and touchable water pipes/armatures. While both are in the ground, the ground isn't made of copper and has enough resistance to allow dangerously different potentials.

[@davidmarquardt9034]

@unept96 The ground always goes to the water line. However, in the mid 1970's the NEC deemed this insufficient and added to the code requiring the extra ground rod. Only one rod was required UNLESS the resistance exceeds 25 Oms. But instead of the old heavy-walled Type-K copper entrance line, some places are going to polyethylene, PVC, or even PEX.

[@TechGod7]

Great videos Ron what camera do you use?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Go Pro 10 and iMovie.

[@stockconstellations1013]

great explanation

[@lancewolf2451]

No arc fault breakers? I thought any upgrade requires arc fault breakers

[@dchambers986]

A few small errors were heard around the 20:00 min mark... I will DM you when I have time Sir.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@dchambers986 no errors

[@spree1948]

Hi Ron, have a couple of questions. 1.would this setup work in Woodbridge? 2. What brand breaker panel and disconnect are you using? 3. Do the ground rods need to be a certain distance from the panels? Thanks

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@spree1948 1. Yes 2. Eaton Cutler-Hammer 3. Ground rods should be spaced 6’ apart and as close as possible to the main disconnect.

[@jinsu0504]

Is running romex wires, running them into a pvc conduiti outside the house to connect power from first floor panel to second floor, against code?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@jinsu0504 Yes. “Romex” is not rated for wet locations. Anything outside is considered a wet location.

[@jinsu0504]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey well what is rated for outside

[@bigdeal6058]

Thhn/thwn-2

[@gregadventures2024]

Was that a plug on neutral panel?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@gregadventures2024 Yes it is.

[@spree1948]

Hey Ron, great video! May I ask where you buy your panels?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@spree1948 Goodfriend Electric.

[@vince6829]

Great workmanship as always. Stay safe; get the gloves. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@user-pm2bo7fp8d]

Hey Ron. Love your videos. Random question. What kind of work boots do you wear?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@user-pm2bo7fp8d Timberland Pros.

[@OSAS726]

Good morning Ron! My question is what were you talking about when you were saying to make sure that the transformer had a lower fault current protection than the disconnect breaker? Maybe I’m misunderstanding? I’ve never heard of that. I’m just curious as to what that is? Thanks in advance for your response. BTW, great content. I love your channel.

[@BillCalder]

Ron said the available short circuit current on a fault down stream of the pole transformer can supply up to 10,000 amps (presumably at @ 240 VAC). The breaker is labeled with an interrupting capacity of 25,000 amps (again I presume at least @ 240VAC). This means the breaker is more than capable of interrupting the maximum available short circuit current. Retired GE/ ABB Circuit breaker development engineer.

[@Lucio..]

I like your videos RON there is at lot to learn.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Keep watching! So much to learn. Glad u like the videos!

[@carlluis770]

6:10 wouldn’t the breaker on the disconnect have an AIC rating and the transformer on the pole have the Short Circuit Current rating and the Available fault Current rating ? Sounds weird that the breaker has a SCCR rating . Love watching your videos

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

AIC and SCCR are kind of the same thing. Most 50kva pole-mounted transformers in residential neighborhoods are 10,000 available interrupt current.