Electrification of a Ninja 250 - System Design and Component Selection

[@KermKerm420]

This guy is an absolute unit. Love every single video given the structure and quality ❤

[@LifeOfMikeChannel]

Watched this one all the way through, and I have to say that I learned a lot! I like how you provided all your formulas too for anyone who might want to spec out something similar in the future. Great work as always! Can’t wait to see how you mount/layout your components. Do you plan to bench test your entire system before the installation process begins?

[@lightningfrog27]

Yeah man, certainly need to confirm everything works together nicely before hanging it on the frame. Also planning to electrify a kid kart (an Infento build actually) as a sort of confidence builder along the way...which is another video I'll be making in the coming months 🙃

[@xxskizzumxx]

Sounds like a fun, but difficult, project. Good luck with everything, EV conversion are the future of hotrodding

[@lightningfrog27]

Thanks for watching my video and the well wishes....I'm going to need all the help I can get!

[@jakeck614]

This video is amazing. Just subbed to follow progress. I learned so much. Loved the useful math and how straightforward you are.

[@lightningfrog27]

Thank you so much! means a lot to me, especially since i spent so much time learning it myself :)

[@keverator8997]

Very helpful video! I also just started an EV motorcycle conversion, also used QSMotor hardware, but went down the hub motor route… I guess we shall see if that was an expensive mistake or not… hopefully not.

[@lightningfrog27]

Lots of electric motorcycles use hub motors...I don't think there's a "right" or "wrong" answer....just different configurations with different pros and cons. Best of luck on your project!!

[@lezbriddon]

as mentioned its a weight thing, if your on tarmac and not in twisty turny terrain a heavy wheel wont be an issue and will make the bike feel a little lighter when you lean, but it can also make the front twitchy so you may want to move most of the battery to the front, its not a good setup for offroad bikes. a mid engine bike will feel heavier moving around but will have better cornering on rough roads. and front wheel drive, lol just no......(yes its been tried by people)

[@kalikiller1771]

@@lezbriddon that's good to know I was honestly wondering about that

[@peteristhegreat]

Looks sharp! Your maths seem decent. Are you going to post a jupyter notebook or other kind of website for some of these conversions? The bag style stack batteries seem to be popular lately in the hand power tool section of lowes/home depot as being able to pack more amp hours in a smaller space. Also if you reach out to the companies that make these parts and say that you are making a youtube series about some integration, you could maybe get a sponsorship on some of it.

[@lightningfrog27]

I hadn't planned to make a website about my project, but there are several (preexisting) online calculators...I even linked a couple in the video description 😉 I like the idea of getting sponsored, but I think my channel is far too small for any company to give me any free stuff (yet!)....heck, I'm not even monetized. Maybe this video series will put me on the map? 🤔

[@NRMN_]

Great explanation of your component choices! Are you gonna try and build the battery to fit in the original fairings or go custom/no fairings?

[@lightningfrog27]

Hopefully going to fit inside OEM fairings! If I can't make it fit, I'll try to modify them as little as possible.... mostly just want the aero benefit of a smoothed profile - will make a meaningful difference for range at higher speeds

[@ganzeytyler]

You can get a BMS that uses a contactor instead of mosfets. Much more reliable, and 2 birds with 1 stone. QUCC sells them, not too expensive either (probably cheaper than a daly off amazon). Otherwise batteryhookup sells contactors for this power level for $30. Cheers

[@lightningfrog27]

Thanks for the tip! I've already orderd the DALY, but i'll be sure to look up the integrated contactor BMS option, and talk about it in a future video for posterity's sake :)

[@lezbriddon]

just getting to the end of my city bike build, i went hub motor because unsprung weight at city speed isnt a real issue, and city is like straight line 20-30mph, and our legal motor size limits a bit limiting in the uk, 250w(e bicycle) 4kw/29mph(e-moped) and i think 11kw(learners motorcycle limit) and then above. as i live in city boundaries with no road above 30mph, and traffic that cant get to 30mph in the daylight hours, an e-moped was the fit for my needs, and less on insurance. but i built with headroom, running 84v and it should achieve about 50mph unrestricted, but that would be naughty.. i have built many e-bicycles, then this, and next i dont know if to go for a 12kw mid build or a small car conversion. i may build and sell to earn to fund the small car.... if anyone thinking of a small-medium build is reading, do not buy the cheap 3kw fake motor controllers that look like votol em150/200..... the parts inside are cheap under rated and the software is terrible, cant find an lcd to fit, or ways to program. usually theye like 3kw $90-120, avoid them.... your not saving if it lasts only a short time

[@jscythe74]

Holy shit dude. I've never put that much thought into an electric build. There are only three parts to a conversion. The battery, the controller and the motor. For a motorcycle, the motor has to be rated for 3KWs or higher. The battery just has to have a voltage rating that matches the motor and enough amp hours to give you the range you want. The controller just has to match the safe operating amperage as the motor. The rest is just mounting all that shit to the frame. There's really nothing more to it. Side note: To get an estimate of range for the battery, you have to multiply the voltage of the battery times the amp hours. The result is the total number of watt hours in the battery. So if you're motor is 96v and 3 kilowatts, you're going to need 96v 30ah battery to run the bike at full throttle for one hour. So if your top speed is 65mph, that battery should give you ~65 miles of range.

[@lightningfrog27]

Thanks for the feedback! I guess it does feel like I'm overthinking my project...but my background is in aerospace, so I'm accustomed to a high level of rigor and documentation in the design phase.