Troubleshooting Tankless Water Heaters In MINUTES ~ Step By Step

[@grahamlocke7650]

I wish there were more people who can explain things as well as you. Excellent job and i feel alot more confident and knowledgable now to acess my issues with my water heater. Thank you

[@jhorne18]

As a professional educator, I say your tutorial is excellent! If you are not teaching, you seriously should consider doing so.

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks Jeremy! I really appreciate the kind words. I have many videos that cover a wide range of subjects. Be sure to look over my video playlists below, and most importantly share. kzbin.infoplaylists

[@JohnHoranzy]

Step 1: Check the fuse and circuit breaker. Step 2: Check and retighten any high current mechanical connections. (Check all other connectors for condition and security.) Step 3: Check consumable or high wear, high power density components such as the heater elements, mechanical switches. I cannot recall any control board systems just breaking or failing with the modern electronics. Excellent and informative video. Thank You!

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with your friends.

[@JohnHoranzy]

I forgot .... After checking the high wear, high energy density items, going into your well laid out trouble shooting procedure is the next step. I have just been lucky that my control boards or electronics never failed.

[@JamesMartin-tb9vf]

absolutely perfect, clear and concise. I wanted to confirm I tested everything before ordering the flow sensor and you made that easy. Thanks!

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you liked the video James! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks kzbin.infoplaylists

[@joshlima1572]

Where did you order the flow sensor?

[@brandonk5087]

I don't know if you still check in on this video. This is the BEST breakdown of the electric heaters I've found. The EcoSmart troubleshooter manual doesn't even get into the triacs and thermostats... I have an Eco-27 that was running great for about 2 years (cleaned every 6 months too). Recently, the hot will intermittently cut out mid-shower, then come back on before I can run out to check for a code. I have yet to be able to catch a code, so I ran through testing the ohms for the elements and I replaced my flow impeller and sensor top (reused the body) because the impeller was starting to make a little odd noise (not the usual noise). Still has intermittent issues. Thermistors next? I was under the impression triacs are either good or bad, so am I correct in thinking these are not the problem? or maybe one or more of the thermostats? Your vid mentioned how to see if they are closed, but at what reading should they open? Wouldn't an open condition (hot) turn them off? Thank you for putting this together and for any input you can provide! Edit, just caught the codes. When it shut off, the display reads "5103" and "P009". I can't locate those codes anywhere and they aren't the expected "E" codes in the troubleshooting guide. Turned back on a few moments later... Pulled the elements and they are clean but I noticed that #1 and #2 seem to have contact points near the top where the loop touches(d) the sides of the chamber. Is this normal and could this cause "grounding" or a short of some sort that kicks it off? Ordered new elements just in case (and having spares never hurts).

[@iljanov]

Great video tutorial, very easy to follow, My issue is that my water heater overheats at the hot end even when I switch off the heater, I'm still kind of new but I've tried what was displayed here. The hot connector gets so hot that it melts the inner hose that leads the hot water to the house. I don't know if it's the hot end temperature sensor.

[@AF-rr7ir]

I'm having the same problem. Did you ever find a fix?

[@omniscientsport]

One of the best troubleshooting videos I’ve ever seen on KZbin. Great information. Way to go.

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks Matt! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my videos with many others so I can continue to make more videos like this well into the future. kzbin.infoplaylists

[@harishcoolman4521]

Excellent video, very well explained and logical trouble-shooting methodology. This will save the viewer a lot of money.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you think so! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks kzbin.infoplaylists

[@miguelloya4296]

Can you please provide the video where you talk about the optocoupler (13:20) . I just replaced all of my heating elements for my Eco Smart Tankless 36, I also cleaned out the inlet and outlet sensors. Turned on the hot water, checked for hot water . Left it running for at least 5 minutes. Then when I wanted to use the shower 2 hours later, I got no hot water. Which means I'll have to troubleshoot the system and figure this thing out cause a plumber would cost about the same as the replacement. And also, I have a soft spot for these types of repairs. Thanks, Great video...

[@bobfuller5991]

Thank you, sir, for this great video. I have an Ecco Smart 11. I am in the Sacramento, CA area with inlet temperature around 60 degrees F. My shower head limits to a flow of 1.6 gpm. My problem is that unit appears to only "sort of" working raising water temperature to 80 degrees. Voltage going into unit measured at 245 and amperage on wires going in to both heating elements is about 23.5 A for each. Also I have tried on 2 separate Eco Smart units with same results. Could there be a problem with my double ple 60 amp breaker, or.. Is the shower fixture itself at fault?

[@romanorozco6764]

I congratulate you. I speak Spanish. I had to translate this text to ask him to make a new video, but this time put the explanation written in Spanish in the description of the video. That way it will also help those of us who speak Spanish ..! please..!

[@garycstube]

wow! a repair video is useful and done logically. Thank You! I wish that there were more guys like you that knew what they were doing and willing to take the time. You can't get prints for a Rheem which is not as smart as the one that you demo but now I know what to look for. Thanks!

[@wadesaylor1841]

It's obvious you know what your talking about just by your confidence... thanks for the help keep it up

[@liamtorres4422]

Question first I really appreciate the thorough video. I have an EccoTemp and they say the solonid isn’t working. I didn’t hear you mention a solonoid any help

[@donhenn4396]

I really appreciate your extreme knowledge of electronics.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoy my videos! Thanks for watching Don, be sure to rate thumbs up and share.

[@rnrdollavon3443]

We appreciate this video. You mention thermal transfer compound. What product do you recommend for use on the new triacs?

[@tarnowek1]

Thank You very very much...this video is straight to the point and really educational .My Eco has just stopped heating, its lED dial is lighting up , I had just replaced one of the heating elements however its still not heating up ..Triacs ?could you make a video on replacing them ? I also have a question do the triacs fail in pairs? because my water is cold even when I put the dial to 43 * C, Last time I just replaced the element and every thing worked..anyway thank You once again.

[@electronicsNmore]

No, they don't normally fail in pairs. Very easy to replace. Unscrew from heat sink, desolder, solder new triac in place, apply new thermal compound to the triac, then screw back onto heat sink.

[@kevinberry7076]

Thanks for the video, can the triac be tested while in the circuit with an ohmmeter? I have Chronomite water heater, one triac is 90 ohms MT1 to gate, and the other is 1 ohm MT1 to gate. And I'm testing these while still installed in the circuit. Thanks.

[@electronicsNmore]

For reliable testing, I desolder.

[@DHarrisChillin]

Very thorough and well-explained sir. Thank you very much. You helped me diagnose a bad heating element. I used my multi-meter to measure the ohms between one of the heating element terminals and piping as you instruct around 8:00. I had tons of crud from the busted heating element run through my hot water pipes. It was a pain in the butt to flush out!

[@techo205]

Hi thank you for your well explained video. I noticed on my tankless water heater that the heater red LEDs were flashing and then the system turned off. I reset the heater however I am getting an issue. The heater will only start heating only when the water pressure is very low. If I turn the pressure up a little the heating LED indicator goes off and then no hot water.

[@jujujijijaja]

Thank you very much for this great video that actually explains how the system works. Like another poster said, I was able to rule out other faults before changing the water flux sensor.

[@Jorde-u4u]

I am the kind to open and investigate if can be fixed, many times a fuse is the problem but, you went way beyond helping. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! ❤ 🙏 🫂

[@lazaratabares5493]

hi we have a tempre plus tankless water heater that keeps popping its high limit switch do you know why by any chance.

[@uncledan210]

Need help Rheem tankless electric water heater not coming on, LED screen to lighting up weather I turn or push the knob. I have power at the breaker and at the unit. I've changed out the control board and still having same problem. Any suggestions? Thank you

[@danmorgan77]

Great explanation. Question....my JNOD tankless kicks down at 105 degrees even though set at 125. Small transformer seems to buzz now. ???? Won’t hold high temp and good water pressure.

[@starlace6570]

Hello. Great video! It helped me understand whats going on how to test each component. I dont normally like to bother creators with personal questions, but for this ive searched everywhere and im at a loss. So thought I would ask. I have had intermittent hot water for some time. sometimes luke warm, sometimes hot. It finally went to all cold recently and when I inspected the unit (ecosmart 27) the first Triac was completely melted!!! So thats def the issue. But what I cant find out, and what really concerns me, is WHY did it melt. Ive ordered a new Triac, but is it just gonna melt (they arent cheap)? More importantly, is it going to start a fire in my house??? I thought the Fuse would trip to stop something like this, but even with it already melted, the circuit board light up and showed a temperature reading. Any ideas as to why it would melt like this? I read about triacs a bit, but it does get confusing. Did it fail open? Does this just happen sometimes and its ok? Any help from you, or anyone else that might read this, would be appreciated! ThankS!

[@waynebarr8124]

We had a gas Rinnai RGU199 installed with a loop due to our house configuration in August. Hot side works perfect but cold side we get tepid warm water. It has to run a bit to ever get cold. Any idea as to the problem?

[@paulhoefnagels492]

I have a sharp WH-55 or hothot I have used your video to troubleshoot and found the potentiometer, the triac and the main double pole switch to be correct. The temperature sensor was open. No indication on the controller board of damaged components or burns. The triac is a combined item with two wires carrying ground and live and the third connection the gate I suppose from the controller board the neutral wire is connected at the terminal to a wire that returns to the control board. There is no transformer. In the end I found that the temperature sensor has a little pin on top and if you press that one the temp sensor closes again and allows current to go through. Thanks for your video

[@MADuranDude777]

I am getting power to one heating element but no power to the second one. The oil reading is good on both. What can I look for next?

[@earthlingi72]

Hats off to you bro ! wonderful guide

[@kevinclowe5829]

Wow! All I can say is WoW! Great Job.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my Channel with others. Thank you

[@docjanana]

Thank you for so much information and very well conveyed to the electritards out here such as myself. my problem is different i was filling a bucket and lost complete power to the eco tank all together. any guidance on that issue? the unit is only 5 months old too i have an ecosmart 11. thanks

[@electronicsNmore]

Make sure you have 240V at the terminals to the unit.

[@martygraw1550]

I have an Ecosmart 18 which is 3 years old. A couple days ago, it started making a water hammer noise. I contacted Ecosmart and after about a half hour of discussing the problem and being put on hold, they decided I needed two new elements and triacs. I ordered the parts which should be in tomorrow but meanwhile I tried the water heater again and the thermostat is at 109 degrees but the water is getting boiling hot with vapor coming out of the faucet. Before recommending the parts, Ecosmart sent test procedures for the element and triac which tested ok. I will change the parts which cost almost 50% of replacement but I really think it is a circuit board problem and they should replace.

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds like a faulty temp sensor. You should remove the cold water line from the unit and make sure there's no buildup inside. Could also be a faulty board.

[@juanmora6980]

Hi tanks for a great explanation, can I use an step up transformer to 220VAC since I have 110VAC Outlet?

[@jjeffery129]

I hope you can see my comment and provide some input. I did what you said to bypass one of the optocoupler on pin 4 and 6 and it worked again. I even changed a new control board and that ruined the optocouplers on the new control board. I would’ve just changed the optocouplers, but it seems that something else is breaking the optocoupler short. What could be the problem?

[@korrige1]

Thank Sir for explaining these method in such detailed..looking forward to your videos.

[@komoru]

The 1 amp fuse that connects to the triac is blown on my unit. Any idea why this may have blown....on my unit, the fuse is soldered in. You do not mention how to troubleshoot if this fuse is blown.

[@giliancamacho9606]

Hey how are you I have a Takagi TK4-in I change the burner and the tank after that it reset ,now I’m getting a flashing #10 code on checking info says that code is np but I don’t think it’s normal could I get your honest input on this problem.thank you.

[@sonnymoon6465]

yes. we installed our cheap tankless water heater for which there is no listing online or factory phone number that works. cycles on and off but never on long enough to heat the water substantially. hopefully i will be able to adjust that somehow. i need to watch this more and more. your other videos are very useful.

[@GeoRaAlva]

Did you ever figure out what was wrong and how to fix it?

[@JonathanTurner1998]

I’ve been going back and forth with Rheem customer service. I have a RTEX36. I’ve had it for about 1 year. All of a sudden last September the water stopped getting hot. Most faucets will get warm but nothing over 90 degrees. The #1 element is the only one that never turns on which according to the manual should be the 1st one on. It’s also the only one with -0- volts. All of the elements are reading at 6 ohms. Customer service suggested I replace the #1 triac and the #1 thermostat. Nothing has worked and another caveat is when I turn on more than one faucet I’m getting an E5 error. Sorry for the long message, but I figured why not ask to see if you have any ideas. Thanks in advance.

[@richardmyers7801]

I am having the same problem. Did you ever figure out the solution.

[@sejalpatel1484]

Hello I am exactly in the same situation as you. I have my Rheem for over 1 year and now all of a sudden water is not as hot as it was 1st year of installation. Called Rheem and told me to replace element #1 as reading of 0 volts. The others are reading 6 ohms. Let me know if you figured out what is the problem after all. Thanks

[@BushyIV]

My tankless water heater looks identical to yours. My problem I will have intermittent hot water, it cycles hot to cold back to hot and again to cold. The green temp leds stay illuminated and I can hear the flow sensor working. Any thoughts on the intermittent cycling hot water?

[@richardribot1441]

hey there electronicN more I have a question I saw your video I have a American heat ADK-2 tankless water heater had it for 5 years change the elements twice, now I have a different problem the water heater is on but no hot water I checked the elements they're good. I used to see the lights go on and off according to the floor of the water but now I can move the thermostat to any degree and it does not do anything if I take one of the cables off one element it'll work on the highest level and gives me warm water if I have them both connected it won't do anything if you have any advice please help thanks

[@MaxxHomesLLC]

What's it mean if the unit gets hot as soon as you Power It Up, without any water flow. Also the water won't flow anyways. It seems plugged. I'm thinking the flow sensor is melted and not turning

[@mattloper6301]

Hi, I have a question if you have time. I have tested everything in this video. I have 120V on each leg going in from the breaker. I have 12.5 VAC on the secondary of the transformer also I have around the same resistance that you got on the primary and secondary. I checked the continuity through the thermostats while cold water was running through it. I checked the resistance on the inlet and outlet temp sensor with an ice cube. Resistance goes up when ice cube is applied and goes down when removed. I hooked up both triacs the exact way you showed and they both worked by turning on the light bulb. The heating elements look fine upon visual inspection. No corrosion or bloating and they both read 10 ohms. The screen seems to work fine. I can turn it off/on, up/down and from C to F. I tried shorting pin 4and 6 on both the opto couplers with a pair of pliers. The temp of the water seemed to go up a small amount when I did that. Do you think I could have an issue with my water flow sensor? And if so is there anyway to know without having to test it with an O-scope? Do you have any other suggestion? Thank you

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds like a faulty flow sensor.

[@jennifercoburn471]

I have a Rudd gas tankless hot water heater. I can get hot water everywhere in my house except the bathtubs and washing machine. I’m thinking it has something to do with the pressure? But cannot figure it out. In one of my tubs, it’s a tub/shower combo and if I use the shower, perfect hot water. If I turn the bathtub faucet to hot, to take a bath , the panel shows the flame (that it’s heating up) and then it goes cold and shows error code 11 on the display. There are so many things code 11 can mean it has blown my mind. Any ideas? Any suggestions would be helpful thank you!

[@Lawless187indika]

Good day man, awesome detailed videocant thank you enough. I love learning about these types of fixes and trblshoots... i have 1 question... read ur descrption :).. my question isnt relating to post-testing so much i guess. What i want to verify is. @ 10:35 you mention 240v. Is the unit you use here a 240 v heater or is it out of those 4 terminals they split into 2 collective volts of 120v. So the pair going out120v and the pair going in at 120v?. Sorry if i missed, i rewatched the vid. My heater looks almost exactly like yours here but it clearly says on my heater 120v. so When i probe two of the 4 terminals i get a reading of around 123-124 volts. is this correct? or should it still be as you stated at 240 v? thanks

[@electronicsNmore]

240v heater with 240v elements. Thanks for watching!

[@Lawless187indika]

@@electronicsNmore thank u for responding. That means my reading is accurate?120 v heater. . My 2 terminals at 122-124 volts,for a 120v element. .Thanks for being a teacher.Keep it up!

[@Cryptochinodotsol]

Did you have that connected to a power supply

[@electronicsNmore]

Only for certain tests.

[@jakobskyaguilar584]

Excelente video maestro saludos desde México.

[@shieldcracker]

Very good video. But I am not familiar with the model you present but I think the device in series with the heater attached to the tank is a thermal cut out or safety switch. The temperature of the water is controlled by the pwm of signal to the gate terminal of the triac.

[@herculestubalado906]

The best nobody can do it any better - thanks very much

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You

[@fabiocarrillo3653]

Hello Sir I have the EcoSmart 8 problem, what happens is that the water gets hot for 10 seconds then goes cold and then hot again, never consistent. What could be the problem?

[@electronicsNmore]

Dirty cold water inlet(clogged filter screen) or faulty flow sensor are the usual.

[@fabiocarrillo3653]

@@electronicsNmore Thak you good Sir.

[@MrJimbo6]

Nice video, I have a problem with my water heater which is 18l and powered by 2 d battery's, everything works as it should but if I turn the hot tap off the lcd screen stays on for ages so if I want hot water again while the screen is still lit the heater won't fire up again until the lcd screen goes off could you offer any advice many thanks

[@electronicsNmore]

Possibly a faulty water flow sensor making the unit think water is still running when it's not. Thanks for watching!

[@bparker86]

I'm trying to modify a rheem just like this for commercial use I need to get it hotter than 140f is this something you or someone else could help with pls

[@1968DMURRAY]

My first heating element has power to both leads at all times even when water is turned off the triac has power coming out when water off any suggestions this is a eco11 tankless

[@siphiwesiame5880]

What should i look out for if my electric heater is showing all lights and degrees but not change temperature from 25°c

[@tinaspence5691]

I have an ecosmart tankless hot water heater. About 2 years old. Today is the first time I have ever had trouble with it. But if I turn my faucets on to thier normal position (dont have low flow faucets) to get the hot water it just comes out cold. If I turn them barley on water gets hot just like it should. Could it be one of the heating elements or what would you suggest looking into?

[@electronicsNmore]

You need to do some tests. Maybe a faulty element, faulty flow sensor, or faulty mosfet.

[@ideas8854]

Thank you very much, Sir. I removed my "thermostat and applied some thermal grease pest and screwed it back on and it worked for me, I don't know why though." Is that a thing? 🤝🙏🙏

[@komoru]

Anyone have a suggestions? I have assembled the circuit as per the layout at 6:00 into the video. I have the yellow wire on the ground side of the light bulb socket. My bulb socket only has a ground and a power wire, so I am assuming this is how it is connected. I did the test with a 1 amp fuse with yellow wire connected to ground on the bulb socket, going to terminal 2 of the triac switch. The light turned on brieflly (for a second or two), but then the 1 amp fuse blew. I tried a 5 amp fuse and even that fuse blew. Thoughts/suggestions appreciated!

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds like you're using the wrong pins. Look up the datasheet for your triac, so you can make sure you're triggering the gate pin.

[@komoru]

@@electronicsNmore I could not find any info when I google my triac which only has two numbers stamps on it: S6065J and 2DTF5. The two pins on the left are identical width and the pin on the far right is much narrow so I presume it is the gate, like your video shows.

[@shawnastarnes1533]

Thank you so much for this video! I have an Eemax unit and have done some trouble shooting over the phone. They tell me the problem is the magnet getting stuck, which would require a whole new assembly. I'm a little skeptical of this because the tests didn't seem consistent. Is there a way to test the operation of the magnet. Apparently the magnet in the Eemax unit is different from this because it's in a tube. Thanks again for this awesome video!

[@qiujicai198]

In the event the flow sensor switch is a problem, how do you remove it especially for Joven water heater?

[@electronicsNmore]

+Casey Qiu Every tankless heater is different, but they all work in a very similar way. Look up your heater online, as well as the exact part to get an idea how to remove it. Thanks

[@ronaldmarcano5648]

Hi...I have an ECO 11 like you are using and it blew the inlet pipes out with an explosive sound.. broke the PVC pipes. I connected it and heard an explosion again through the open pipes so I disconnected the power. I am trying to work around the problem but I am having problems around the flow meter and whether it blew out. I need to see it’s physical placement in the circuit...Thanks in advance.

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds like a faulty heating element. The hot water outlet must be CPVC or copper, not PVC.

[@justgivemethetruth]

I have a Noritz tankless water heater, and it works pretty well now for over 8 years. I have a problem though, if I try to make my my shower water cooler, I get to a state where the water either turns totally cold, or gets totally hot. When it works it is often very hot, which I mostly like, but sometimes I want it cooler. I bought and attaches the remote control unit and set the temp to 100 degrees, but it seems hotter than that sometimes. If I am taking a shower and I turn the cold water up too much the whole thing shuts down and I get totally cold water. If I turn the cold water down eventually it will get warm, but then it will also often get too hot ... even with the max temp only set to 100. I have a very cold hot and cold water combiner ... maybe from the 60's or earlier to control the shower, and I thought that might be part of the problem. If I open a small stream on the vanity faucet it seems to work OK. I think somehow opening up the cold water pushes against the hot water and causes the stream to slow down and the burner to shut off. Is there a way to fix this?

[@electronicsNmore]

You need to inspect the cold water inlet of the heater. It could have a lot of debris/corrosion inside.

[@justgivemethetruth]

@@electronicsNmore I just cleaned the filter again and it was almost clean as a whistle. I think there is a drop in pressure on the outlet of the water heater, and when the cold water mixes in the shower fixture the cold water pushes back on the hot water because it has higher pressure and impedes the flow, and the until seeing less or no flow shuts off the burner. I don't think the imput is obstructed, and I don't see corrosion or rust in the screens on the faucets?

[@t4862rm]

GREAT VIDIO. LOTS OF DETAIL!!!!

[@kevinphung6378]

Wow, thanks for this video. Logical and succinct. I know it has been awhile but I have a question. From your explanation, the flow sensor will send a signal to the board to turn on the triacs to turn on the elements... Wouldn't the outlet thermister cause the triacs to turn on the elements also? Otherwise why have a thermister ? Or would it be flow sensor turns on elements and thermisters fine tunes the amount of heating required?

[@electronicsNmore]

The flow sensor and thermistors are both used together. :-)

[@dixiegentsc]

Where's the link for the video on troubleshooting the flow meter you mentioned at 1:37 in above video?

[@electronicsNmore]

Hi there. KZbin just recently stopped using "Annotations" in videos. Please go back to that point in the video, you'll see the link I just posted. Thanks for watching!

[@richardribot1441]

hey I'm making a small correction when I have the thermostat on the lowest level the lights go off and on like they used to but nothing happens when I turn it up to high they all stay on and give me warm water that's if I have one of the cables of either one of the elements disconnected if they're both connected like they supposed to I don't get nothing just every other second lights flickering acting like if it was on the lowest level Heat. thanks.

[@Lawless187indika]

Me Again i wanted to test why i have no power on my unit the RTEX-04 but it doesnt have a transformer,or has none like your unit. as result ,Can you refer me to where i would do my testing/troubling shootin for a no power coming on. I do get required 120-124v going in the unit on the 'Screw terminals from the power cord

[@hallcolt]

first off , great video! I have a titan n180 electric water heater. i have checked all possible causes with no luck of the culprit sticking out. I get hot water on a very low setting. however it will stop working then I have to adjust the temp on the unit up and down and up and down a bunch of times until I can get it to work on a low setting again. I'm guessing a faulty board but I'm not sure. I can see a voltage drop coming from all 4 triads when it decides to stop working. and don't any optos on the board

[@electronicsNmore]

Check all wiring from the breaker panel to the heater. Measure the AC input voltage when the problem occurs. If the voltage drops, then you have a poor connection somewhere.

[@hallcolt]

thanks for the response. the voltage stays the same coming from the breakers to the unit. voltage drop come from the triacs, (all 4). turn temp down all the way they output like they should, then I can turn up (sometimes,) 2 temp levels, (just under half.) if I go higher on temp, voltage drops from 120v per leg coming from triacs,to roughly 50v. never seen anything like it.

[@hallcolt]

suscribe and personally sent link to friends of mine to check out the video, just a thanks for the response.

[@evangriggs6290]

We have a brand new Rheem tankless electric and out of the box it had an e4 error code, after using the hot water it cracks and pops(like boiling water)we can't control the temperature of the water at all, it works even when you turn the power off with the knob. Now it's starting to hiss all the time. Have you ever seen anything like this? We are at a loss... any guidance would appreciated.

[@electronicsNmore]

An error code ‘E4’ on your Rheem Tankless Water Heater indicates that the flow meter sensor gets faulty. The flow meter sensor is also referred to as a water temperature sensor. If this sensor is at fault, it will not send a signal to the computer, which starts the tankless unit. A defective flow meter sensor, broken wire, and poor connection are the culprits that trigger the error code E4.

[@rayv7921]

Had a bad heating element with an e5 error. Replaced it and still getting the error. Water is heated until too many faucets/appliances are running. Any of the other parts worth checking first?

[@rayv7921]

Got into diagnostics and the inlet temp is 70 outlet 125. Flow at 2.1gpm with the tub running and it will throw the error if it's turned over 125. Guessing I had a bad triac and element? Recent lightning strike took out tv/thermostat/stereo/etc.

[@ronaldmarcano5648]

Hi I really watched your video and you recommended the heater elements were defective which I since replaced. The heater isn’t coming on so I checked the flow sensor and a 5 volt is not changing when water is turned on so the circuits aren’t sensing the water flow. What I noticed the flow sensor is not the recommended one I see in the parts listing for the ECO 11. It only has two wires. Is it just a switch then or how do I troubleshoot this part the two wire flow sensor. Thanks for any help you can provide.

[@electronicsNmore]

If the unit doesn't turn on when the faucet is opened, then it's a flow sensor issue if the unit has power.

[@jimrojas62]

I was able to repair my Eco 11 quickly with your help. Thank you. I have a question. There are KW pins on the circuit board that you select according to the model you have. The last pin says 125. If I put a jumper there, does this mean the unit will always be at 125 degrees? I have a problem with someone dialing up the unit to 140 degrees. I have small children here and want to prevent an accident. Thanks again for the great video.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad it helped you! I no longer have that unit, I moved, so I cannot answer your question. I have many great videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, and most importantly share with others. Thanks!

[@pedrobain3972]

I

[@danielscullion887]

I have a JNOD tankless water heater. The electric flickered a couple of times and now it’s saying that the temperature of the water coming out is 170 degrees when I have it on 120. Can you please tell me how to fix it and also where I can buy the parts I need. Thank you

[@electronicsNmore]

Maybe you need to reset the breaker. Power off, wait a minute, then turn it back on.

[@savllya6049]

Thank you for a excellent tutorial. My problem is the water heater is always stuck at max heating. Can the NTC sensor on the outflow be a problem, any suggestion on possible suspects?

[@ashleyhernandez8203]

We are renting a house that has a Rheem tankless water heater. We are not abke to get hot water anywhere in the house. My landlord has had a plumber out several times and the clean the system and we are still not able to get hot water. Do you know what is causeing this. Thanks Ash

[@electronicsNmore]

If the unit is showing that power is applied, then there must be an issue with the flow sensor not turning the heat on

[@quivsterderilo1244]

is it necessary to supply it with water first to test the unit?! if no water supply what will happen?!

[@electronicsNmore]

+Quivster Derilo Without the flow of water, the system will not turn on for you to test the heating element.

[@clintonwilliams9739]

Sitebel temperture switch not resetting

[@skirmantedanial6278]

Where are you located? My tankless water heater not working properly, do you provide service in Saint Augustine, FL? Or can you suggest anyone?

[@electronicsNmore]

I don't do repairs for viewers, I don't have the time. Appreciate the offer.

[@MikeCameramike]

Installed an EEMAX heater. It worked until I turned on the cold water in my shower at the mixing valve. Is it likely that I had back pressure at the outlet from the cold water? Before turning on the cold water at the mixing valve it worked fine. ?.

[@electronicsNmore]

Turning on the water at a fixture will not damage the unit.

[@MikeCameramike]

One of the triacs has a broken connection the black material is cracked. Where can I buy one? Not sure if can resolder the connection. Thanks for great video.

[@electronicsNmore]

Great that you found it. It's fairly easy to swap out. Look on Ebay for the part #, also buy some thermal compound.

[@plasmar1]

where do you buy the elements? shopping around for prices

[@electronicsNmore]

Either Amazon or directly from the manufacturer.

[@augustineortiz8588]

Great video , thank you for sharing . Very informative well articulate.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share my Channel with others. Thank you

[@jasonl4237]

Is there a risk of electrocution when using a faulty instant water heater? How to prevent electrocution? Thanks.

[@jonathanhix9118]

Do you have a troubleshooting video for a TAKAGI T-K1

[@electronicsNmore]

No

[@briancrane7644]

Great video. I have an intermittent issue where no water flows through the tankless at all. It has been coming and going the past few days. Any ideas what the issue could be?

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds like the water is partially frozen at the inlet, or the inlet filter screen is mostly clogged. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share my channel with others.

[@eleazarmayorga1464]

hi. you have a video where you explain how test the water flow sensor?

[@ocam988able]

My water heater tripped the electrical breaker. I tried to reset the breaker but it quickly tripped again and it gave off burn smell from the water heater box. Wonder if the box fried from a recent lightening/rainstorm we had.

[@electronicsNmore]

With the power turned off, disconnect the wires from the heating element/elements, protect the bare wires with wire nuts, and turn on the power again. If it doesn't trip, you have a faulty heating element.

[@PhilLeith]

Are there really three different triacs, one for each element, in an Eco 27? Parts are listed that way ... but they appear to come with their own wiring harnesses ... and I wonder if it's just different wire lengths... seems to me you wouldn't need triacs with different specs for each element. What happened with ours is, a couple of times in the last week, it would get hot, then cool some, then get hot again and stay ... now it just gets lukewarm. I haven't run these tests yet. I was hoping it was just a fuse, but ... now I'm afraid it's a triac. Don't know which one, though. I'd like to just keep a few on hand, but if they are really element-specific, that's a crap-shoot.

[@electronicsNmore]

You definitely need to perform some tests. Thanks for watching!

[@PhilLeith]

@@electronicsNmore Talked to EcoSmart tech support today. Yes, they are just different wire harness lengths, the triacs are the same. BUT ... he also said triacs are very rarely the problem, initially. Bad elements & thermistors CAN eventually cause the triacs to go bad, but the #1 and #2 problems they see are elements and thermistors.

[@guanacux]

Thank you for the informative video! Once I have determined is the flow sensor switch that is defective (by elimination). Do you know where I can order it? I have a 8.5KW Atmor waterless heater. I've looked online and have found nothing. Thank you!

[@electronicsNmore]

Call the company. Thanks for watching!

[@yevgeniyburda3924]

Can you adg the temperature on this units ?

[@RobertCornell464]

Hi, really interesting and informative video! We have a rheem 13kw which has been working great for years and has good water flow. All of sudden quit heating..I followed some of your tests and have good supply voltage and the heat exchangers check out, what happens when I reset the unit is it goes into full heat whether or not there is any water moving or not.. The unit will not go into standby mode always full heat. For now we are just running the water and turning on the breaker to get hot water. In the interest of using the unit have not tore it apart to do any further tests. Do you have any idea what might be the cause of this malfunction. And of course if I let it sit with no water moving and it turned on it will over heat and kick the reset switch. Any help greatly appreciated..the wife says buy a new one!!

[@electronicsNmore]

Definitely a faulty flow sensor or shorted triac.

[@RobertCornell464]

@@electronicsNmore Thank you for the insight, I have since purchased new for obvious reasons but would like to fix the old one as a backup if possible. So will dive in and check out your other videos and such and see what I can do. It was great that it did not totally let me down, only one cold shower until I realized a workaround..Thanks again

[@rawdog1250]

Just read a bit about the triac and learned how it works with AC to DC power. if you can clarify this a bit further i would appreciate it

[@slamdvw]

TRIACs are AC switches. When triggered, they conduct until the voltage crosses zero volts, then shut off. If triggered again, before the voltage comes back on the negative pulse, they'll conduct again. They get their trigger pulse from the optoisolators. The Isolators get their power from the DC supply on the board.

[@aldomendoza5289]

I'm having touble with mine Im not getting any hot water. The unit has power but the dial won't change the temp and even if I leave it pressed for 3 seconds it won't switch between c/f if I turn the breaker off and leave the button pressed before I turn it back on it will let me change temp for about 5 seconds then will freeze again. Do you know what might be wrong with it

[@easywaycircuit9233]

what is wrong of my tankless shower heater if i click to ON its automaticaly heat abnormaly even in not HEATING POINT ARROW pls help me and thank you

[@jonathancanoy6286]

If the heater is was not properly mounted on the wall instead they put it laying above the toilet ceiling will it works properly or not?

[@electronicsNmore]

The orientation of the heater shouldn't make any difference. Thanks for watching!

[@iftieddie621]

Excellent explanation

[@electronicsNmore]

Ifti Eddie Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thanks!

[@GeoRaAlva]

Just installed a new 5.5kw ecotouch and it will only go from 69°F to 76°F? I checked the volts and water pressure but no change, what could it be?

[@electronicsNmore]

Are you using a very high volume of water?

[@leonardthebarbercelestine5334]

My control has no lights. I have a Rinnai and want to know if there is a battery in the control panels in the house?

[@electronicsNmore]

You need to open up the unit and test for power. I have no idea what your model looks like. Thanks for watching

[@fishwanda]

What if i have 220 coming from wall. 220 going into water heater. But nothing. No lights or anything at all on display

[@lizaguila3473]

Hello Thanks for the video. I have a question. I need to buy a triac for my ecosmart 11. Are they both the same? because online it shows 1st triac and 2nd not sure of which one is the 1st. The one that I have bad is the one closes to the cold water intake. Thanks again

[@tarnowek1]

Hi did you find the answer? I have problem with my 11 also..so 1 and 2nd triacs are the same?

[@PeterFrishauf]

It would be great if you had a video on how to clean the flow sensor. EcoSmart sent me instructions for this, but they are incomplete and do not list all the steps. This video on electronics is outstanding and very useful. Thanks!

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@lesliegurley1057]

I bought an on-demand propane water heater online and it flashes like it will ignite and then nothing. The manufacturer said I need to adjust the ignition needle but would not even send me a photo showing where to look or how to adjust it. Can you give me some guidance on this task? Send a photo or diagram with the part in question circled and how to adjust it please. These cold showers in a room that is poorly heated in December are not fun. Thank you.