Elegoo Mercury X and XS Wash & Cure Review - Well, it's Cheap

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00:00 - Intro

[@FauxHammer]

Buy the Elegoo Mercury XS here Elegoo: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2183271&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack= Amazon: amzn.to/4857UQ3 Buy the Elegoo Mercury X here Elegoo: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2183273&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack= Amazon: amzn.to/4857UQ3

[@Dennis3113]

i Know a bit late but you should just use washing bags, i honestly don't know if thats a term that exists in english but in essence its a bag where you put your socks or underwear in when you through it into the washing machine. Oh and secondly your math is totally wrong, because every layer is only exposed for several seconds you don't add up the amount of time for every layer its just this couple of seconds that's hardens the resin. the Part that comes out of the Resin isn't exposed to uv light further on at least in theory.Finding the right time to cure is dependent more on how many shadows the miniature can cast upon parts of itself.

[@antongunther3977]

Small component cleaning: Get a tea infuser. Just pop heads, shoulders, or any small part into one of those. Makes cleaning them in wash stations easy mode. Though I prefer the pickle jar method personally. (tea infusers still work on those)

[@TheEightshot]

In theory, and this is only a theory, you actually only expose each layer of a 3d print for a few seconds. after the layer is printed, it shouldnt get any more curing, or the start of a print would end up massively over exposed and the end of it would be under exposed. So if a few seconds gets it to 70%, then it shouldnt take more than that to get it to 100%. Would be an interesting to do an experiment on.

[@TheRoamingbison]

I've been using the XS combo for a while. I also remove my models from the build plate before washing them. It helps prolong the time between solvent replacements. I also do a 2 stage rinse where I have some dirtier alcohol in a plastic tub that I use to rinse the majority of the resin off. That makes the alcohol in the wash station last much longer. As for the wire build plate holder thingy, I put that crossways across the top of the solvent tank and set the wire mesh model cage on top of it to drip dry for a minute or so after a wash. It's better to get as much as possible back in the tank instead of evaporating and stinking up the room.

[@jasoncombs3232]

The impeller in my wash station stopped spinning, and I've had to take it apart multiple times to fix it, but the fix never lasts long so I've switched to a 5 gallon bucket from home depot. It's plenty big for the whole build plate and any resin parts still attached to it. I just spin it like a washing machine inside the bucket for about 30 seconds. After switching I'll probably never get another wash station.

[@pjamestx]

One thing I'll say is that I thought I was happy with my little cardboard box of UV lights and small ultrasonic cleaner setup until I got one of these, and even if it doesn't feel super luxury, it feels like a very nice step-up from my homebrew solution. I tend to take parts off the supports before I clean them (so I'm not cleaning the bits I'm about to throw away), but I leave the supports on smaller pieces that might be more at-risk of falling through the sides of the basket. That said, I've had a couple of parts fall down and they've been just fine once I fished them out after.

[@backpacker3421]

You might want to try cleaning before removing the supports. I've destroyed a few pairs of nippers due to resin residue working it's way into the hinge - they become very stiff and the spring can't open them up. But if you're tidier with your nipping, maybe that's not an issue for you. Cheers.

[@SgtHouse]

Thank you for another great review!

[@B4MBI72]

Got one of these, the wash station broke within a week, the plastic spiny thing with the magnets (thats the technical term) in the base of the wash station cracked and stopped spinning , but Elegoo sent me a metal replacement no questions asked. No issues since. I tend to cure for 1-2 mins for small prints 3 -4 for big things. Not had any issues yet. Way better than a plastic pickle jar and a UV lamp, although I still use the pickle jar for a prewash.

[@blaze556922]

Can't wait to see the video on IPA vs the spirits. Your channel has become a go to for me quickly

[@peterkiss1204]

I usually cure for 4-5 minutes in the Anycubic Wash&Cure 2. Curing longer usually doesn't make the model surface better but start to become warped and brittle. I'm using generally well known resins like the Anycubic regular clear resin, Phrozen ABS like resins, Siraya tech fast, and these mixed with various amount of tenacious resin.

[@tempusavatar]

Thanks for the video. Regarding the cage and small parts: I've seen people use metal spring loaded tea balls to hold small parts that would fall through the cage. Should be available at your local dollar store (or pound shop.)

[@ThePrintHouse]

Your videos are always the most entertaining lmao

[@PsychoSubSandwich]

I have a habit of over-curing my models ever since I had a blowout on a big statue due to a _tiny_ bit of uncured resin on the inside. Even if you get tiny cracks from shrinkage I think it's better to be on the safer side and overcook it, especially if you plan to paint larger figures or statues.

[@CaimZheit]

In my workflow I might have found a partial solution for the cage, even though I don't have a wash machine. When I populate the plate in the slicer I make it so the raft and the support touch each other. When I remove them from the plate is a big single piece of resin, that then I chuck into a tub of etilic alcohol. It might work for the wash station, however some small pieces always fall.

[@Krogg666]

Here in the US we call methylated spirits "denatured alcohol". I'm not sure if it is different in other parts of the world, but here denatured alcohol is just ethyl alcohol (the kind we get drunk on) with some stuff added so people get sick if they drink it. Its reason for existing is so hardware stores can sell it as a solvent without needing a liquor license. In my estimation, that would actually make methylated spirits safer than IPA, assuming of course that you don't drink it. Don't drink IPA either, unless you want to have a really bad day. Just have a beer while you wash your minis.

[@WIBRTyranT]

i have the mercury wash and cure x stations, and i personally like them. that being said, they're the only ones i've ever used/had. but they do the job.

[@ankit-travelandgadgets]

Awesome review.thank you so much 😊

[@user-zw3mg1so7o]

Cool! I hope you an review the new anycubic washing and curing station, that one looks fancy!

[@Starfury0042]

I used the packing material and a hot glue gun from my Mars 3 to make a box and lined it with stick on acrylic mirrors and a 6' (2 meter) strip of UV lights. Put a small solar powered turntable in it and it works great - for 98% of my prints. The dragon - well it was a bit big but I made it work. I just use plastic containers similar to what you have to do my rinse; have a "dirty" one and a "clean" one. 91% IPA is fairly cheap and works fine. As for miniatures: I'm REALLY enjoying printing/painting the Artisan Guild figures.

[@Gawl88]

Looking forward to the video on spirits vs ISO. Currently using ISO and looking to switch.

[@waldyro]

Elegoo's website says 2 minutes curing for models 30mm diameter or less. The math (or maths) for the remaining 30% can't be calculated by the print layer and time, because the intensity of the UV Light is different. I do feel like these have taken a step back in quality but not price. sure there are two light sources, so that should make curing faster (i guess). but the anycubic i have that they released along side the first Mono X tilted on the top to sine down and catch the top of the print. I personally like washing them on the plate, to clean the plate at the same time. anyway here is what's on elegoo's site "Cure Time: If model diameter less than 30 mm, the curing time is recommended to be 2 minutes. If the surface structure of the model is complex, it is recommended to increase the curing time properly"

[@bacawaka2813]

I got both as well because I had an issue with my wash station that came with the mercury X and it was jamming after 30 seconds of curing causing a horrible noise. I tried to fix it by adjusting where the magnetic plate was positioned a few times but i couldn't get it to work. I bought a second unit which was the mercury xs. I am in the same boat for cure times. I really dont know. I have been doing 3 minutes for phrozen 4k resin. I use the 4k because it is a little more flexible than the 8k stuff and I cant tell the difference between 4k and 8k prints other than the flexibility. The longer the cure time the more brittle it is but there is more chance for uncured resin within the part if they are not cured enough. Also the longer the cure the more heat is generated of the resin occurs causing the parts to warp. Or at least it seems like that.

[@TheAndrian463]

Curious to see a review on AC's new wash'n'cure 'dishwasher'. Saw a similar type of 'dishwasher' a while back on KS.

[@davidthorp375]

To solve the small parts falling through I just used some fly screen with bulldog clips.

[@MajorLandmark]

What precautions do you take when handling methylated spirits? 7L is a massive quantity to have open in your home (of either solvent), which definitely puts me off these types of things without switching to water washable resin.

[@TheMugwump1]

I thought the system worked so good I bought a second container to use as a pre-wash. The sealed containers are great quality and are completely air tight. Haven't lost any ipa due to evaporation.

[@christianknaack4190]

You can use a big stainless steel tea egg for smaller parts. Or this little french fries buckets. Works great and no mor fishing for small pieces

[@xXKisskerXx]

I don't have a resin printer, but , to me it would seem it should/might be related to mass (resin dependent) for curing. So like a non-speed 4K resin might be 30 seconds per gram or something.

[@Kubrzesz]

I'm following your vids about the printing and printers, but I've never worked with resin minis of any kind, nor 3d print anything myself, so I'm absolute and utter newb to the whole concept so please forgive my question if it comes through as naive. Would it be possible to use that washer (machine itself) and fill it out with soapy water and use it to clean pieces off of the release agent like FW stuff? Or is that a bad idea and "soapy water + brush" is the way to go?

[@Jumbo_Jym]

This is the second time I've heard you say big black knob in a video now and laughed only for you to immediately address it and call out my immaturity.

[@PequignotMichel]

An advise: when your pour a liquid from a canister to a container or someting similar, to avoid splashes turn the canister as one of his largest faces (Lxh) is facing, in this case, the table.

[@FauxHammer]

i don;t understand.

[@ardnutcouk]

​@@FauxHammer When pouring liquid out of a container, air needs to rush in to replace the liquid that has exited it. When you're pouring that large 5l container into the wash station you have the opening of the container, where the liquid is pouring out, closest to the table and the handle above it. This means that when the liquid is coming out there's no air gap in the opening for the air to get in. The flow of liquid then starts to splutter and gulp as air is trying to rush in making it difficult to pour and it splashing everywhere. If instead you flipped the container around, so the handle was nearer the table and the opening was above it, all the liquid that's already in the container as you pour would be below the opening; therefore leaving an air gap for air to enter and it will pour smoothly.

[@RamonRodgers]

Is it possible to put the used spirit or alcohol fluid in the curing station so the fluid cures in clumps inside the fluid, then filter the fluid to get the resin out leaving clean alcohol?

[@brendanarmstrong7802]

My issue with methylated spirits is that they're way harsher on the print. I suppose you can look at it as a sign that it's doing its job better, but I'd gotten kind of used to being loosey-goosey about when I pull my prints out of the wash station. With IPA, sometimes I'd just let it sit for an hour before coming back to dump everything into a heated bath for support removal. I decided to give methylated spirits a try, and that was a disaster. I started having a hell of a time keeping fine bits from breaking while removing supports, and it took me a lot of ruined prints to realize that I just couldn't leave my prints in for more than 10 minutes, or the methylated spirits would start to eat away at it and make it more brittle. Ultimately, I just ended up switching back to IPA for convenience's sake. It's more expensive, but not wildly so if you catch 99% IPA on sale on Amazon, as it often is in the US.

[@FauxHammer]

I suppose it depends what you get used to and at least you tried it fur yourself. Personally I like what it does. After just 20 minutes. Supports are so sift that they just pull away easily. I'm used to that now and could not go back

[@Gromic2k]

@@FauxHammer It would be cool to se a comparison between the two solutions. I bet it would affect the overall quality of the resin as it seems to weaken the material during cleaning. It would be interesting to see if this is permanent damage or if it is as solid as ever after the methylated spirits has evaporated

[@lap87]

Already finished boltgun the first week it was out, so watching a review of it makes little to no sense now xD But i'll give you a support-watch anyhow

[@ForgersWill]

As someone who is really looking into getting a printer and whole setup to print minis. I'd love a beginners guide/buy guide. Your videos have been super helpful but I don't wanna blow my money on a bad set up cause I don't know what goes with what and yeah.

[@FauxHammer]

On it

[@kyduong3401]

If its a polygonal object i do 7 minutes per side ( usually top bottom, then insides if it has insides)

[@Ale-bj7nd]

If you eant to calculate curing time you need to account for UV lights total lumen and ir.radiation

[@FauxHammer]

Along with model surface are and volume. It’s why I just do a few minutes and hope for the best.

[@Bunyip_Studios]

I switched to the clear Meths ages ago, it's 100 times better than IPA, and way better than the purple stuff! It works out cheaper in the long run with "sun" re-cycling and it does it much quicker. I've got a 1.5l bottle of the purple that's been sitting outside for over two weeks, it's still cloudy. I put 3.5l of clear meths outside last week, they'd returned to crystal clear by the next day, ready to reuse. And it doesn't go sticky like IPA does. I get mine from Jennychem in Snodland, Kent, you can collect if you have a vehicle

[@FauxHammer]

totallly agree!

[@SamuraiMujuru]

Only reason I "upgrade" from a Mercury to a Mercury X was so it could fit my Saturn 2 build plate. Added bonus, dont accidentally cure my alcohol anymore. For small pieces I have a large, cylindrical tea steepee.

[@Jams848484]

Was it worth it? I'm considering upgrading from a Mercury + but it seems quite a bit of money just for the convenience of being able to put the whole build plate in.

[@danteinferno6513]

thanks for your review ! I just want to ask you one question : you mentionned that your prints become very britle because of washing and curing time and It is exactly what I try to resolve for my prints! Mine are so britle that it is a nightmare to paint. I first thought that it was because of resin quality ( anycubic standard resin) but you are saying that washing and curing time matters, so did you finally find an answer about this? I think that "the lower the better" for washing and curing but how could I know if curing time is enough or not enough? ( for washing it is easier, no liquid resin, clean surfaces and that is it) thanks for your help!

[@FauxHammer]

I can. Answer your question easily. If you are really using Anycubic Standard resin… it’s the resin quality causing the problem. Yes curing time and soaking time has an impact, but you won’t get much better from Standard Resin

[@markburton5292]

i printed basket insets for my wash and cure with smaller holes for smaller minis.

[@FauxHammer]

oh that's clever! What material? did you design them yourself?

[@markburton5292]

@@FauxHammer i used my fdm printer to print them so i just used pla. yes i just measured the inside values for the baskit and then created them in fusion 360. but it wouldn't be hard to do in onshape or tinker cad. if you want to do just the bottom all you need is the correct size and shape. then change the infill value and print with no top or bottom

[@TheLuggi84]

I use fine metal mesh. You can buy that stuff really cheap online, easily cut it to size and it wont desintegrate over time.

[@mentalaliashb8656]

May i ask what is the model you printed? The one from 7:24 in the video

[@pratikghodasara7018]

Is there a way to be able see these videos early? Your videos are absolutely amazing, by the way!!!

[@FauxHammer]

Yes, these wee Members only for about a month. but once I schedule them, they are no longer visible to members, which is a stupid thing that KZbin needs to fix. Many creators ahve complained about it. You will hahve another early access video on Tuesday and then more after that

[@pratikghodasara7018]

@@FauxHammer Oh hehehe I thought there was something fishy, thanks for letting me know

[@Gromic2k]

I cure my prints for only a few seconds and wash them for ~30 seconds. They are much more robust since i do it that way. But that´s with "fast" resin that only needs a curing time of 1 second while printing. Curing your prints 100% means, that all the smaller parts that need fewer curing time will be overcured and become brittle. I only cure them until they don´t feel sticky anymore. In other words, you don´t need those curing stations if you ask me. The companies will tell you otherwise, because they can sell you a container with a lamp for 200 dollars.

[@mychannelnow82]

all well and good but can you share where did you get those small buckets you rinse in please?

[@ausfoodgarden]

Here in Australia it seems Meths and IPA are similar in price. While I do need IPA for other reasons, I'd really like to see that "Why Meths is better than IPA" video.

[@codyosborne9307]

Do I NEED a cure and wash station?

[@the_kroete4357]

Haha yes the never ending question, how long do we cure our models 😂 I did so much research and am also still just guessing every time ❤🎉🤣🤣🤣

[@danteinferno6513]

Hi I'm coming back to you because I'm looking for an answer about compatibility between Saturn 3 ultra build plate "wash and cure plus" station from Anycubic : is it ok or not? On paper the wash and cure plus basket volume is too small, but maybe they feat together anyway? If it is not the case, could you tell me about another " two in one" station that feats with S3 ultra plate? ( I haven't got enough space for Mercury XS)

[@user-gx3su6hb1u]

i want the same problem, some can answer?

[@nicksmith1415]

Hiya. I'm just getting into resin printing when my Saturn 4 Ultra gets here. Do I need this? I have a homemade UV box for curing resin when finishing helmets and armour.

[@FauxHammer]

You don’t “need” it. But they are more convenient.

[@blaze556922]

Do you ever cure in water? I've heard from numerous sources that it is superior and takes half the time. I live in a very sunny place so I'm thinking I should just cure things the old fashioned way in water

[@MIN3D_reviews]

hello, is there a plan for elegoo air purifier review?

[@FauxHammer]

not yet, it's on the cards for doing in the next couple of weeks.

[@user-gx3su6hb1u]

Hello, I've got Elegoo Saturn 3 - i would like to wash my prints with PLATFORM from saturn 3, couse ive got very gentle models. Does a printing PLATFORM from saturn 3 fit with this container from mercury X ?

[@FauxHammer]

I;m not sure, I never use my plates inside wash and cure machines

[@jessehavok4181]

What is the other wire thing other than the basket for?

[@FauxHammer]

It’s to rest build plates on. I think it’s pointless

[@jod3000]

@fauxhammer my go to solution for rinsing smaller parts is to put one of those strainers from the "pickle jar" into the cage of the wash and cure. Does the job and no small bits fall into the impeller. Cant wait for the IPA vs meths video, im testing some purple meths this week

[@catnamestaken]

Cool

[@FauxHammer]

It’s the cheap option and does the job

[@richarddakin542]

I loved mine... Whilst it worked. The impeller stopped working after about 6 months

[@leeparsons1843]

Did you do a video on meths and isopropanol?

[@FauxHammer]

this was the closest i ever did

[@leeparsons1843]

I've watched this one 4 times now thanks

[@jn6305]

I have a mercury station and for small miniatures I’ve found that curing for longer than 30 seconds pretty much destroys the model. That’s with perfectly calibrates cones and 1.7s exposure times so 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@FauxHammer]

Really, I normally cure minis fir several minutes

[@kibs_6816]

I would say you can not generally calculate curing per one simple formula - the required curing depends on the resin it self and environmental conditions. Usually chemical processes are faster when its warmer. Depending on the colour and how much light is absorbt you are curing primarily the outer shell but not the layers underneath. So if you have clear resin I would assume you have to cure far longer as the resin is not absorbing so much light and you cure the whole part more even. Furthermore your thinking of calculating on 70% basis considering the whole exposure time is not valid. The last layer had only seconds and is cured approxamitly 70% as well or are the last few layers completely soft? So there are far to many factors for a simple approach - i am afraid you have to experiement per resin and guess how to change parameters when you have smaller or bigger objects... I think the cracking problem is mainly caused by curing differences betwen the layers and by too fast curing and not simply the total curing time. Unfortunatly I an just into getting the stuff myself shortly and my thoughts are based on theory but maybe you try curing 4 cycles of just 2 minutes with an hour break inbetween and compare this to the result of curing the same model curing in a single 8 minute go. I would assume the result is different. Curing is like creating a crystal structure in the material and if you force this process to much it can become brittle. If overcuring would always result in cracks and brittle objects every single resin print will become dust and crumbles when exposed to sunlight later very fast - I do not think this is the case - is it?

[@pyroshade7162]

Im a little disapointed in the review over all. I havent gotten into 3d printing but, based on your reviews the GKtwo is the way too go. At £600-£700 for the printer its expenisive and at £1100 for their whole "soloution" its even more of an investment. It would have been good to see these included as a whole soloution from elegoo compared too the likes of uniformattion and elago. How does the everything you need to get started compare, especially as a value proposition as a whole. How do these compare to the uniformation wash station and cure station and is it worth the extra £150/£200? Is a saturn 3 ultra and these better than a uniformatio gk 2 and their wash & cure soloution as a bang for buck?

[@mychannelnow82]

don't overthink it, get a mars or a saturn, depending on the size of prints you want to do. Get this, or any other cure wash station, and you will be set for years.

[@buckbuckleyson2259]

Fluent in yappanese

[@abrahamrodriguez2298]

lol 😆

[@pablofiasco2]

cheap is good i guess? thanks for the review

[@ReadyMack-g]

best fun

[@Mrhufnagl]

after this video, i'm a little bit unsure: is it cheap or not?

[@FauxHammer]

It is… and it works..

[@cargo_vroom9729]

I think you made an incorrect assumption that the 70% cured has to do with the total print time. The individual layers are mostly cured in a couple seconds, then they're away from the screen. I doubt the final cure time is related to print time in any way.

[@demijebus6831]

Tip those jugs on their side to avoid that glugg glugg.

[@BiZkiDD2]

Is it cheap and does it work?

[@FauxHammer]

Lol

[@eltont862]

You should wait until you're in a better mood before doing a review video, mate.

[@danzko]

Could it be because he’s Bri’ish and that’s his schtick?

[@Jaynimates]

​@@danzkomate

[@benkonczal4584]

It’s true. You’re not wrong and you did say the right thing… Yet… here we are 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@CraftySven]

just cure until it aint sticky 😁

[@bensgizmo2960]

As one of the other commenters has mentioned, the magnetic plate on the wash station has a tendency to fail. The setscrew on the motor shaft doesn't hold well and the wheel migrates. It's always a pain to deal with at an inconvenient time. Tighten it down hard with a little thread lock. If you have a smaller build plate and don't want to fill it up all the way, use some wire wrapped up in the squares lower down. I've also had the upright lights on the curing station start to fail as well. A fraction of the brightness of the lights under the turn table. There's better options than this one.

[@SuperAWaC]

better options such as?

[@Shooter_FPV]

Yea, what better options are there?

[@mobilefiscus]

Another broken out of the box Elegoo wash station here. Spins for 5 seconds or so then makes a good awful grinding noise and stops...

[@techlabs9385]

I've just watched today on Facebook a video with one of these that had constant issues with the curing (it kept interrupting)... Very unreliable, Anycubic's are better made (I own a wash&cure Plus for more than 2 years and it runs flawlessly ).

[@FauxHammer]

I think that's just a one off…? Someone has an issue with something doesn't generally mean they are all bad

[@minusonetohit]

iso stinks ill be ordering some of the stank free meth asap. thanks for that info

[@FauxHammer]

Well, this isnt odour free. But not as strong as ISo

[@minusonetohit]

@@FauxHammer still very much appreciated. It’s been something I’ve been pondering for awhile but go to ask and then something shiny happens and I forget. Less odour is far better than the headache inducing one of iso

[@backpacker3421]

Counting the lines in your print to figure out cure time is utterly useless. Each line gets exactly what your exposure time is... AND THAT IS ALL. And there's not much sense to curing bigger models longer either as every square millimeter ON THE SURFACE is getting the same amount of exposure in the curing machine, no matter how large your model is. Figure out what cure length is good for your machine (by trial and error if the manufacturer doesn't provide) and stick with that.

[@FauxHammer]

yea, that's how I do it now. gues work. 5 mins at at ime until things seem too brittle

[@dan3dprint183]

Don't worry the Mercury X gonna die soon that's why they release the XS.

[@FauxHammer]

This includes the XS

[@sycoforbidden]

@@FauxHammer What would be your recommendation for a wash station?

[@FauxHammer]

@@sycoforbidden Honestly, whatever you have the budget for. they all do the same thing - some are a bit bigger

[@d.se1]

impossibe to watch with that "no idea comments", waste of time

[@FauxHammer]

eh?

[@grumpymonkey585]

they are cheap break easy 249.99 CAD not cheap at all bro . the washer breaks fast lookm on youtube how to fix many issues. my the pro was crack in the machine so just jammed 3 months after why their giving so many away. free good 200 to 300 it a rip off. we dont all run youtube channel some of us are poor. that was a wast of money.

[@FauxHammer]

I’m sorry fir your experience. The one thing I can’t test on these is longevity.

[@grumpymonkey585]

I would call 3 months long term use lol. But that life looking at ultrasonic cleaner at this point .

[@oaxaple4636]

Lame review, full of negativity and sounded annoyed that he had to make a video, also gets off track a lot on other stuff.

[@anthonyvera8524]

If I took a shot every time you said the word "cheap", I'd be drunk.

[@FauxHammer]

I know I hated this after the edit. Bought a thesaurus