BETTER cleaning & curing of 3D resin prints [EASY METHOD]

[@philhathaway708]

Be careful spraying your prints with an airbrush. I did this for the first couple of months of resin printing, and ended up with a bad skin reaction on my face and exposed arms. It seems that the process atomises the resin/IPA and it settles everywhere. Also, when using the swirl-in-the-jar method, try to find a container with a lid, as this can lead to splashes.

[@Explore-Gobal]

That's a great tip/observation and makes a lot of sense. Many people assume if you can't see it, it's not there. Will keep this one in mind, thanks.

[@vogman]

Thanks for the VERY IMPORTANT SHARE. Safety is easily overlooked. Even though I wear mask and gloves, I don't use a face shield. I think your comments warrant a reconsideration of my safety gear - and hopefully all others that read this. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@5FSF]

@@vogman This is actually true of quite a few chemicals that either appear harmless or that contain particles you don't see. As a general rule, air pressure should never be used with anything that can damage your skin, eyes, or if it is harmful to be ingested. Issues like this can be especially nefarious because you can't see exactly where things go. I can tell you from experience working in chemical manufacturing plants that pressurized air gets much, much further than you would expect it to. Given the issues with liquid resin causing potentially serious reactions, a face shield would also be inadequate. If you wear glasses, I'm sure you have experienced how often things will seemingly defy the laws of physics to wrap around them and get into your eyes, and the same would occur with a face shield. You can also contaminate surfaces that you never touch and would otherwise consider safe, but the particles will collect atop surfaces just like dust will. It can even settle inside the fabric of your clothing, in your hair, on one or both surfaces of your mask, on the outside of your glove container, etc. My alternative recommendation is to use a cheap toothbrush. It takes a little bit more time but it is much less likely to cause issues unless you scrub too hard with your face within about a foot of the print and get caught by tiny splashes. My steps are usually to use a shop towel (specifically NOT regular paper towels) to remove as much liquid as I can in large passes. Then I take the toothbrush and start going over the print with the towel still between the print and the brush, this allows the bristles to push the towel into harder to reach spaces and dry everything without risking tiny splashes from the bristles moving. After I go over it like that to dry the larger cavities its just back and forth with the towel and the brush until its dry. You likely will not have to do as many passes as I do after switching to mean green which does not evaporate nearly as fast as IPA. Edit: I also wanted to suggest getting a few plastic trays, the kind that you might see in a cafeteria. You can place these onto surfaces that you don't want to dirty with water, liquid resin, or alcohol such as wood that could absorb them. You can spill all over the place inside the tray with no worries and cleanup is very easy. They're made to be less porous than other plastics that can potentially hold bacteria or particles and are largely heat resistant out of necessity because they typically run through industrial dishwashers.

[@karllautman]

Perhaps airbrushing inside a small container with a transparent cover, like an improvised glove box, would eliminate a lot of the problem.

[@MrKfadrat]

toothbrush, compared to airbrush, its awful idea. airbrush at least has a directional cone, brushes bristles are essentially tiny catapults. way way worse when it comes to particles in the air. obviously safety first, but lets not hop into spacesuits just because we paint miniatures. if someone is worried - just use ultrasonic cleaner and dont do other steps. no point getting sandblasting fumehoods for just spraying a resin miniature if one is not allergic (and not everybody is)

[@msamyweber]

Great idea, I will be making "reflectors" for my curing station tomorrow. That makes SO much sense. Thank you

[@vogman]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Grrizz84]

I have 3 small containers and 2 large containers (+ the wash station container); I use a small prewash container and large wash station container for a week or two while another small and large container of IPA sits on a window sill, this gives the resin a good chance to settle in the container. After a week or two I pour the wash station containers IPA into the spare large container and decant the one that had been on the window sill into the wash station container. Then decant the small container of IPA that had been settling into the other spare small container to use for prewashing. I then let the dirty IPA and 'empty' dirty containers sit in front of a window. After a few days the settled gunge at the bottom of the empty containers can be scraped out. Rinse and repeat every couple of weeks, letting the IPA settle gets rid of a surprising amount of resin. The small prewash containers get most of the gunk too so the main wash station (and bearing) stays relatively clean, I found this gives me very good cleaning results because the main wash IPA isn't filled with small particulates of gummy resin. After washing in the station I rinse under warm-to-hot water to make sure as much IPA and resin has been removed and the warmth helps make easy work of the support removal, then just pat/blow it dry and do the final cure. 😊

[@mrgriff9648]

The main safety issue with the sonicator isn't due to the heating (it is one yes) it's due to the fact is creates a solvent vapour without it heating the liquid, as these cheap sonicators are not lab grade with spark protection they can auto ignite the vapour. Covering the pot with a lid, even one that's not clipped on will reduce the vapour that escapes.

[@vogman]

Good point. I've not noticed an increased smell, but it could be there. A sensible precaution 😁👍👍👍

[@omnomnomnivore2766]

I was just about to suggest the same thing. I use a ziploc bag filled with IPA, and then put it in water in the ultrasonic cleaner. Keeps the IPA fumes contained during the cleaning process

[@theQuickRundown]

Great tips! But i would be careful with airblasting uncured resin around, unless you have a safe way to catch ALL of it and cure it in the sun. I just got my Anycubic washing station and I'm already thinking of buying some additional tupperware to mod the propeller into, to optimize IPA usage.

[@vogman]

I normally work inside a cardboard box, but it makes filming a nightmare 😁

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

Anycubic also sell additional wash containers, with the propeller, for about £15-20, so that's a much easier route if you don't want to mod your own

[@yaRincewind]

Thank you for this great video. Watching your videos is always entertaining and informative. PS: Missed your mother in law ;)

[@vogman]

She'll be back... in my nightmares for certain 😁

[@JoshuaRilliet]

Hello, could you tell me the name of the figure we see at the beginning of the video, the link to Archvilain does not work but I follow them on MyMiniFactory, however given the quantity of figurines they have produced so far it could take me literally hours to search and find your figurine, so if you could tell me its name it would allow me to find it more quickly, and by the way maybe change the link you put in the description that does not work. Thank you ;o) As far as the subject of the video is concerned, I use the same technique, I have a tray with IPA which isn't super clean but it's enough to remove most of the resin that's left on the miniatures, to "help" with the cleaning I use a brush to go just about everywhere. Then, like you, I put the part in the W&C with clean IPA, and when I get out I do the same thing, using my airbrush to remove as much IPA as possible from the small nooks and crannies of the parts and so dry them as much as possible. I remove the supports after this drying operation or sometimes I do it before drying so that the supports remain supple and easy to remove. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner and I don't intend to buy one at the moment (a good ultrasonic cleaner is quite expensive and not necessarily necessary), as all the cleaning I do seems to be sufficient. Finally, of course, I put the pieces under UV light. To 'clean' the IPA I leave the containers containing the soiled IPA in the Soliel light, I don't care how long, I know they'll stay there for several days or even a few weeks. Once the sun has precipitated the resin residue, I can filter the IPA and reuse it. I do this routine all the time and I have to say it saves alcohol.

[@somethingstupid699]

Thunderfoot's second channel

[@gravesclay]

Just put your IPA in a glass jar and run it through a few 60 minute curing cycles. Let the cured resin settle out and filter off the liquid. It comes out crystal clear and non-sticky every time.

[@UncleJessy]

I really need to start multi cleaning my prints like this! Clearly much better results

[@vogman]

Great to hear from one of the experts 😁 👍👍👍 If nothing else, dunk, ultrasonic and air dry (even with an ordinary hairdryer on cool) and you'll be amazed at the results.

[@WizarfOneOhOne]

@@vogman afraid I haven't an ultrasonic

[@vogman]

I hear you. Not everyone has. For those with one it's a great tool. For those without, hopefully there's enough other options here to help 😁

[@jelle123123]

Hey VOG, I also found another way to filter your used IPA. I use an easy alcohol filter (commonly used in home brewing kits), I've added a carbon cylinder to filter out the resin from used alcohol. Ive usedi about 30 times now and the liquid still comes out clear. As long as ya dont keep it in direct sunlight. Id love to show ya and hear what ya think!

[@vogman]

Sounds like a clever idea Mark 😁👍👍👍

[@martinbirrell57]

I have heard that people expose their IPA to UV to make the resin turn solid then filter it. I have yet to give this a try.

[@ballsyau1974]

How many uses of the carbon fo you get?

[@jarradbradley6934]

Something that’s worked well for me, especially when you can’t fit the build plate into your wash’s ipa tub (like my mighty 4K plate ) and have to remove the prints from the BP first, is to cut a piece of plastic fly-screen mesh into a shape so that it covers all the insides of the wash basket. This way the tiny parts that would normally get swirled to oblivion are held safe in the mesh cage. The same mesh can also be used to wrap the print in while you “airbrush” or air-gun dry your prints. Again this protects them and stops them rocketing off into space when you don’t have a super tight grip on that part. Cheers and thanks for the great vid

[@vogman]

Excellent suggestion. A finer mesh is a big advantage with tiny parts 😁👍👍👍

[@Miketz]

If you want to stick aluminium foil onto a smooth glass/plastic surface, just spray some water or spray cleaner on the surface and press the foil directly onto it. When everything is dry, the foil stays in place. And it's easily removed, leaving no marks. Great for windows in full sun, and UV curing stations.

[@vogman]

I've never come across that. Excellent tip!!! 😁😁😁😁😁

[@TrepidDestiny]

One of the ways I extended the life of my IPA in the past, was I placed it on my balcony where the sun shines most of the day, and allowed the slurry to "cure". Make sure you don't have an airtight lid, as there will be pressure build up. After this curing, the IPA was mostly clear again (slightly yellowed) and I was able to strain it off. It left behind a goopy yellow/grey sludge that I was able to dispose of.

[@finnon7460]

Just got my first printer(Anycubic Photon Mono) a few days ago. Watching your videos and reviews over the past year helped me take the plunge into this wonderful hobby. You seriously make the most charming, helpful, and to-the-point 3d printing videos on KZbin :) Thanks for sharing all of your tips and experience, you've helped the community immensely

[@vogman]

Thanks Finnon. There's plenty of excellent Community suggestions amongst these comments too 😁

[@amplogik]

STOP!!! NEVER USE IPA IN AN ULTRASONIC!!! I've been using ultrasonics professionally for decades, and this is just about the stupidest thing you can do with them. Heat is less a problem than the vibrations vaporizing and filling the air with a gas that is extremely flammable and extremely poisonous, unless you happen to be wearing an extremely good organic vapor filter mask. Never spray, vaporize or agitate isoproply, including using it in an ultrasonic. If the vapor builds up, as it will in many common workshops, flashpoint is only a static spark away. Furthermore, isopropyl vapors can cause permanent damage to your lungs. You might not notice it after a week or two, but in 5 years when you have COPD, you'll regret it. There are legitimate uses for cavitation reactions with isoproply, but they need to be done in low oxygen environments with appropriate safety gear, and organic respirators. You're already touch and go with resin vapor outgassing and your lungs, do NOT use an ultrasonic with isopropyl, unless you have proper resiprators, safety equipment including fire extinguishers and powered ventilation. This is such a common, common mistake. Please, stop doing it, or at least move it outside, away from any source of heat or spark.

[@Eviscerator03]

My washing method: Use water washable resin, stick the model in a small tub with a good lid half full of water. Shake like fine booty.

[@KyleofAsgard]

As someone who hasn't committed to developing my own multi stage system yet, this was a fantastic video, lots of awesome points that I haven't seen brought up before, and will definitely use some of these down the line!! :D Great work!!

[@vogman]

Glad it was helpful!

[@transcendtient]

I take the supports off before I wash. Much less resin in the IPA means much less cleaning of the IPA. You can also avoid sticky IPA by curing your IPA. Leave it in the sun for a day. The resin will cure and you can filter it off.

[@xBenedictumx]

you say theres no point in filling the ultrasonic with ipa unless you are doing a larger print. but you should NEVER. EVER. EVER. EVER. put ipa in an ultrasonic cleaner, even if it doesnt heat the fluid. The transducer on ultrasonic cleaners can suddenly dump an excess amount of energy into the fluid flash firing the ipa and start a fire even when its quite cool. you should ALWAYS have the ipa in a separate container, preferably covered/sealed, inside water in the cleaner.

[@bakedbeings]

That's what he's doing. He's talking about not filling the ipa comtainer, and mentions that the ultrasonic vat contains water.

[@Hobypyrocom]

i use 96% ethanol to clean the parts, 3 baths in different containers, the third one is always clear... i soak them for 5 minutes in the first bath, then i brush them with a brush, then 5 minutes in the second i brush them again and 10 minutes in the last bath without brushing... they come out perfect...

[@RocketMagnetUK]

It's a good system. 3 or more sequential stages where you discard dirty Stage 1 periodically.. 2 becomes 1 and 3 becomes 2 and you then make a new final "polish" wash stage 3. Home recovery of solvent is possible but a Rotary Vacuum Evaporator which would be the best method are too expensive for the home gamer.

[@Hobypyrocom]

@@RocketMagnetUK i am just exposing the baths #1 and #2 to UV after some time and filter the alcohol (also clean good the bath container)... i was thinking about distilling the alcohol after the UV exposure as a better way to clean it, but in my country lab glassware is impossible to buy :(

[@gagglegames]

I got a salad spinner to clean my prints. Drop in my models, close the lid and spin it back and forth a few times, then lift out the inner bowl. Works like a treat for a couple quid.

[@RaVeN1K]

You can clean the IPA by curing the resin inside with UV light. If you live in a hot climate you could just put the clear container in the sun and let it do the work.

[@AceBullion]

Thanks buddy for this video. I am finally bringing AceBullion into the Resin printing dark side to save on spru'ing up every piece by gand and ir making wax molds of my 3d printed pieces. God help me 🤣🤣🤣

[@red_eyed_sophist]

Wowowowowowowowow! This foil upgrade for W&C so genius! :O Ill make it! So sad, but phrozen resin very expensive...

[@rtsstream]

I like to take the buiId plate with the print stil on it and dunk it in a small bin of ipa and swirl it around. ..THEN scrape it off the plate so im not dealin with resin. Then I pop it in a ultrasonic bath of ipa. Blast with air to completely dry. then I cure the entire thing at once with the supports which makes them super easy to remove once finished. Your method sprays resin everywhere..then you have to invidiually dip each piece in the alcohol. If you do the entire plate its fast and your hand stays out of the alchohol.

[@Igzilee]

Might be easy, but it's also very expensive. Minimum $150 for the ultrasonic cleaner and a combo wash cure station. I'm starting to feel like actually printing any miniatures is too much of a hassle to be worth the hours I have to spend cleaning every batch, and borderline regretting getting a resin printer. Not to mention how much room I need for the process and the mess it creates.

[@jjpython]

Great video, I've just made the leap and bought a mono X2, I've 7 years with fdm machines and this makes me feel like a newbie all over again

[@BarringtonDailey]

STEP 1 Don't use expensive flammable IPA in huge vats. Just use Flash cleaning liquid (Mr Clean USA), fraction of the cost and won't catch fire. STEP2 :Put FLASH in Ultra-Sonic Cleaner and use that. Much faster and cheaper with sound results.

[@CaraHan-HeightLed]

Dear VogMan: Very detailed explanation! I have already subscribed to your videos. This is Cara, from Shenzhen Height-LED Technology Company Limited, China, a professional UV LED curing system and automation equipment supplier. I see from your video that the curing station you use is a simple mercury lamp device. Do you need a UV LED curing station specially used for curing 3D printing resin materials? I would like to recommend our UV LED curing oven to you. Our oven has reflectors on the inner wall, so you don't need to add extra. Also with turntable, can be customized according to your needs. PLC plus touch screen control, easy and convenient. If you have a purchase plan for UV LED curing equipment or want to know more details about our products, please feel free to contact me!🤗

[@jasona2828]

MARS GIVEAWAY MADNESS ive run my mars 2 pro for years and never thought it could get any better but here we are a short 3 years later.

[@flamingomtn]

Question about recycling your IPA...do you put the used IPA in UV light before you run it through the filter to solidify any suspended resin? If so, what causes the stickiness? It seems like the resin would filter out once it was cured. I've only used water-washable resin so far but I do put my used water in a clear container in the Florida sun for a day before filtering out the resin.

[@PencilParasite]

hi VOG, sorry if I'm OT but Elegoo has announced its version of the Mars 3 with T.I. DLP technology : "Free the hounds of war!" 👹

[@happyfarang]

For cleaning the IPA, what i do, is i put it in a transparent cheap plastic container and leave it out in the sun a day or two (with a tight fitting lid on of course) and all the uncured resin becomes a nasty slur that you can filter off. Repeat a few times until you are happy with your IPA. It's nasty but it works :)

[@ale6242]

Wow, yeah ok i've been dunking directly into the Wash and cure and getting reasonable but not perfect results. Totally going to add a "Dunk" station at the very least!

[@vogman]

It's a great use of dirty IPA and dunking really does shift the bulk, which keeps your wash station cleaner for longer 😁

[@willm59]

@@vogman Great tip. Thanks

[@dracoQuest]

I'm thinking about getting a resin printer. Primarily to make pieces that I need for normal plastic models. Not big earrings like you. And you know, alcohol runs through an airbrush. I recommend a two millimeter nozzle gets a nice spine spray at good velocity

[@RocketMagnetUK]

To stop parts sticking through the basket and getting hit by the impeller print a rectangular spacer with holes in it that fits the bottom of the basket. It will also reduce the vortex depending on the spacer thickness and hole size/shape. I'd also add some handles to help remove the part protector spacer when you need to.

[@RunTheTape]

I just blast with an air gun all the resin, then spray with about 50 ml IPA the model and then wash it in the sink. dry it again with the air gun and put it in the sun. very little IPA used and mostly perfect outcome.

[@lanesteele240]

Aluminum is funner to say than alumininum Zeeeeee is funner to say than zed Chip is funner to say than chrisp Cookie is funner to say than scones. Give them a try my British friends.

[@Sharpevil]

Very interesting! You're getting great results. I actually use nearly the opposite method: I first give my models a heated bath in the ultrasonic cleaner (Directly in Mean Green degreaser concentrate), then finish them off with a little swish in IPA. I find it gives fairly similar results, with the added benefit of making it much easier to remove supports after the heated ultrasonic stage. I'm planning on adding the Mercury X to my production line once it's available for purchase again. Also, was that Siraya Tech Navy Grey I saw at the start of the video? It seemed a bit darker and bluer. If it is, I hope it's treating you well. It certainly appears to be by the results shown.

[@vogman]

If it works for you, keep doing it 😁

[@scottflorida7954]

What do you use for the warm bath?

[@blueckaym]

Nice video! I only wonder how do you deal with hollowed massive(ish) prints, and getting out the resin (ideally even curing it a bit on the inside). I just started 3d printing this month. I subscribed to Artisan Guild and got this month's set 'Defenders of Lok-Badar II' dwarves & gryphons (I really like the gryphons!), to print as a gift to a friend that's deep in D&D. So in that set there's a kings throne, which is rather bulky, and fortunately I printed after I started thinking about hollowing structures. This one was really easy, as the shape is combination of cuboid, so the inner space when hollowed is wide and all connected, and also there's plenty of flat surface at the bottom to drill big enough holes. However (for some reason) I tried printing one hollowed gryphon, and while I somehow managed it, I wouldn't say it was easy, and I'm still unsure if there's some uncured resin left inside. The first difficulty is that more complex shapes have narrower, complex and often separate cavities when hollowed out. One thing about hollowing I think is that if you have hollowed out a cavity but you can't make holes (or you don't want to make them because it's difficult to hide them afterwards) then it's a ticking bomb - only a matter of time for the print to break and leak some resin everywhere. The gryphon hollowing was challenging and I got to get ... creative ... It had two separate cavities - the gryphon itself and the stone column which supports it in the air (by casually touching it with a foot and tail). The column was a bit easier, since its bottom would later be glued on a baseplate and would hide the bigger hole I made, but to be sure I added a small hole on the top too. That top hole is visible, though partially hidden under the gryphon's tail. But the gryphon was extremely challenging to hollow out. It's a complex shape, but fortunately it made a single cavity, just a wiggly and thin at some places, but also it didn't have any convenient places to hide the drain holes. So when I said that I got creative I mean that I put two holes where gryphons (and us too) have holes ... for the Ins & Outs :) One tiny hole in its mouth, just where the throat should be, and another slightly larger ... under the tail :) Because of the tight inner cavity and small holes I worried that it might be a failure (in the sense that it wouldn't be safe if it was a risk of leaking resin), so I got hopeful, when I saw some bubbles coming out of its mouth when submerged in the alcohol (the stone column was easy to drain). So I drained it many times manually dipping it in & out to get the IPA in and then out. But it's difficult to see the IPA draining out since all the gryphon is wet with it and the IPA was probably more than the one dripping from inside. The only way I knew it worked were the air bubbles that came out its mouth when I submerged it again & again. But even now that's it's clean and post-cured (so that I can safely put my lips on it) I have a very hard time to blow air from its mouth (thru its other hole). It does work, some air comes out, and no resin leaks, but I really have to blow hard :D So do you have any advice (or perhaps video already) on hollowing prints?

[@scottflorida7954]

When I use my ultrasonic cleaner, I fill it largely with just water. Then I put my printed pieces into a ziplock bag with some IPA. The ultrasonic passes through the ziplock with ease and the parts get well washed by the IPA, while using about 20% as much IPA as I would filling the whole reservoir with it. Edit: I don't think this would work well with the wash machines with the propeller. Further Edit: I didn't come up with this idea - credit some KZbinr I saw do it a couple years ago, no idea who it was.

[@HQBunker]

I'm not a chemist or didn't try anything like that, but can't you cure the resin in IPA to sieve it out totally?

[@retroniker]

...or you can buy an ultrasonic bath directly and have no more problems. Above all, this is much gentler than these "turbo" baths.

[@niklasdahlgren7641]

Utilize a clear container for the IPA when curing. after it gets dirty you put the sealed container in the sun and then filter the hardened resin "paste" from the alcohol. Now you can reuse the alcohol.

[@jamesclendenin431]

Ya know if you happen to come from the southern states and just happen to have done a healthy amount distillation in your life ya might try stilling off the sticky and unusable ipa and see if it doesn't come out brand new I may put some purified water in as well just so the resin doesn't gunk every thing up

[@randalljames1]

There is a small "home distillery" you can run your old IPA through.. will output clean IPA..

[@dumbcat]

has anyone tried using blue Dawn dish soap instead of IPA? that stuff will clean just about anything

[@NeoDemocedes]

My first step is to remove supports in a tub of hot water. This seems to remove much uncured resin. I clean the print in IPA after. I leave the water in the sun before disposing. Is this bad?

[@chopsworth3833]

These are some great tips. Could you possibly show a side by side comparison for a model using these extra steps compared to the same model using less refined techniques?

[@vogman]

It's a pity I didn't think of doing that 😁

[@glowing_kitty]

Interesting approach. Didn’t consider the air blasting part yet. But to be fair, I typically only print larger parts - cases for my LED projects mostly. My approach is slightly different: first removing the print from the build plate, then removing the support (by hand or with a tiny saw), then clean in a dirty IPA bath by hand, then use sandpaper to remove the remainings of the support (so the surfaces are smooth), then clean again in dirty IPA, then clean in “clean” IPA in my Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus Station for up to 4 minutes, then dry the print with a fan on coolest settings, then place the print in a transparent plastic container filled with water and let that container cure in the wash & cure station for 2 min, then dry the print with paper towel, then completely dry the print with the fan on coolest settings again - and done ^^

[@vogman]

Thanks for the share 😁

[@huesudowoodo]

i use clear water washable resin and my models become cloudy and milky if i wash them, when going straight to curing they stay clear, what am i doing wrong?

[@jixs4v]

Hey has anyone tried using 96% pure ethanol to wash prints? How does it compare to IPA?

[@keithday3658]

You could also use the airbrush to paint your prints LOL. That's literaly what it's for

[@Fahnder99]

How do you think about Ultrasonic cleaning resin in IPA bags?

[@Робототехникаотдетейдлядетей]

Do I need to do two-step cleaning with water'washable resin?

[@madluper]

To long (that's what she said). I just use cure station and wait till it dry bedore uv light step.

[@DETHMOKIL]

I take em off the suports before cleaning that's for sure. less stuff covered in goo!

[@JustForUs-c9m]

"You could also use the airbrush to paint your prints" 😄😄😆😅

[@karllautman]

Great video, VOG. Have you tried airbrushing with IPA instead of just air? That might remove even more resin before washing.

[@lhinarizona6658]

Have you considered using a distiller from Amazon to recycle your IPA back to clean and pure? That would remove all your resin and leave it on the bottom of the distiller. Of course it would depend on the actual amount of IPA that you are using, as to whether it would be cost effective. But it might be something worth looking into.

[@ronaldod7116]

Doing this now for 6 months. Just get a distiller you can set on 87C to avoid a to hot distill. And put a hose on the pipe so you have less spillage.

[@vogman]

I haven't tried one of these. They look interesting, but make sure they're good for alcohol. Boiling alcohols is a tricky business, as I experienced in my IPA recycling video 😁

[@vogman]

Interesting 👍

[@grahamhanks906]

I.use an airbrush to dry my prints too, but only after the final clean rinse.

[@MagoAventureiro3D]

I still think that the best cleaning is done with ethanol and a toothbrush, brushing the piece very well and drying it very well before curing is perfect and very opaque,

[@vogman]

Possibly... but my wife gets annoyed when I use her toothbrush for things like this 😁

[@MagoAventureiro3D]

@@vogman i can imagine that! lol

[@JoshuaRilliet]

Hello, what is the first figurine we see, would you please have a link to find it?

[@OffhandDelivery]

wow...i just dump my stuff in the wash station for like 5 mins...

[@3DJapan]

If my print isn't too big I usually put the entire build plate in the cleaning station, hanging it from its attachment. One of my build plates doesn't fit the hanger attachment so I designed an adapter.

[@OminousPinapple]

Methylated spirits aka Denatured Alcohol is a cheaper alternative

[@youngtschakaloff]

Please try this: use hot water before removing supports, they basically come off by themselves! It really is effective. Also, i wonder how to properly get rid off old IPA. And should i cure the IPA before filtering it? How do i get it to be the cleanest again? Thanks!

[@vogman]

Thanks for the share. 😁👍👍👍 I have to be honest, hot water doesn't work for me, but maybe it's just my choice of resins

[@BROCKUPPERCUT]

when ultra sonic cleaning in a cup why not fill the cleaner with water then you dont have to worry about heating it up

[@ihsanduzgun]

Wash time is 2-3 minutes ok but what about ideal curing time with stations ?

[@MyAcer20]

if you put a uv light to the recycld ipa would it not just clump up and sink down

[@TDax]

I bought a 2nd tank for my anycubic wash n cure. I now have a 'dirty tank' used to do the initial clean, and a 'clean tank' used to finish the job. When the 'dirty tank' gets really dirty I clean it out, filter the dirty IPA, and convert the original 'clean tank' to a 'dirty tank', and refill the original dirty tank with clean/ recycled IPA to make a new 'clean tank'

[@vogman]

Smart move. 😁

[@osmanpasha_diy]

Have you thought of curing the dirty IPA in UV light?

[@Explore-Gobal]

Scouring YT for ways to wash and cure. Been tossing about the idea of either using a wash and cure station like Anycubic or Elegoo, using a ultrasonic cleaner per this video, or bashing an aquarium pump to jet cleaning solution directly onto the part.

[@vogman]

I hope this helped 😁

[@MrCow579]

I always just hang my buildplate in the wash and cure station tbh

[@BenLewitt]

That's an awesome mini, what was it called? I didn't see it on their site.

[@Shooter_FPV]

Still new to resin printing. What is the best cure time in a cure station?

[@jtompkins1277]

What about spraying ISO through an airbrush on the print?

[@andy-in-indy]

Lots of good info. I don't have a Wash and Cure type machine, so I have been ding the dunk, then brush(if needed), and Ultrasonic (in a glass container, but that will change now). I am happy with my cure setup, which is a pair of 30W UV Lamps (that do extra duty for retro-brighting old plastics and curing resin used as filler in FDM prints) and a solar powered turntable (it turns under the UV lights).

[@vogman]

Sounds very similar set up. Thanks for the share 😁😁😁

[@dans-designs]

some great tips here! I have a couple more if you dont mind.. Make a filter from cheap coffee filter paper and activated carbon (fish filter or charcoal will do) and pour the used IPA thru that, collecting the resultant filtered IPA.. this can be done at least 5 times without creating a sticky IPA.. the carbon will have to be replaced ever 4-5 times as it does become saturated.

[@vogman]

Thanks for the idea!

[@tuliogodinho3674]

Good evening my friend, thanks for the enlightening content! How long do you leave in the UV station? I usually leave it for 30 minutes but I feel that it heats up the lamps a lot, I don't know if it can cause problems.

[@vogman]

Personally I only cure for 5 minutes with most prints. Biggers one maybe 10 to 20 minutes. They don't need much 😁

[@ericbouchard7981]

on the foil use threem spray glue its awesome

[@scifimodelshop]

what is a good normal cure time? can it be over done is left in too long ?

[@Presbiter]

I have never understood, why anyone would go for that overpriced plastic so called "wash stations" that operate with a whirl in the fluid... ...I mean, industrial sonic cleaner stations have been around for quite some time now and come with a similar price tag, but with industrial grade built quality. Meaning for every day heavy use. Why use such crappy whirlwind maschines?

[@vogman]

Actually they're pretty good, though a sonic is better in my opinion. However, you still need the cure station.

[@PhuVet]

Have my toddler Swirl it in the dogs dish. Dump it in the ultrasonic filled with mek. Have toddler hold it out of the window and drive 60mph.

[@vogman]

Aren't you concerned about the toddler? They may drop the print... 😉🤣😂🤣

[@MrTOniDIni]

i use the airbrush technique but i fill it with clean ipa

[@Liberty4Ever]

Two years later and there still isn't much improvement in the messy tedious cleaning and post curing process. I make structural parts so there aren't delicate parts as found on artistic models. I really need to come up with a method that allows me to quickly clean and post cure parts in bulk with a minimum of IPA. My early attempts at repeated stations with the parts moving right and the IPA moving left resulted in the leftmost tank becoming disgusting.

[@lokiwartooth1138]

What model is that shown at the beginning Sir?

[@kajn3206]

nice video good advice i use technically lichen then rinse in hot water from cac 38'c tap and vitvzovaci station i made UV led tape and aluminum box (from bathing) maybe they'll be inspired in the future and make a video

[@vogman]

Thanks for sharing

[@flowinsounds]

ziplock bag in ultrasonic cleaner is best

[@timothyosullivan6079]

So use water washable... I do. No expensive stinky alcohol in my flat. 😷😷😁😁

[@vogman]

If waster-washable works for you, keep going. I use a lot of speciality resins (castable, etc) and these need IPA.

[@kensaiix]

what's the model name for that animated armor at 5:50 ?

[@freddotu]

Please do not swill IPA. It's okay to swill ethanol but restrict IPA to swirling. Ethanol in the non-poisoned form (vodka?)

[@vogman]

You are right to be caution about inhalation 👍

[@Daepilin]

Oh, I will be so well prepared once I finally find the time to get a resin setup going :O Great content :)

[@vogman]

Preparation is key. Acquiring knowledge is never time lost 😁😁😁

[@dagamore]

From looking at the curing station, it does not look like the tops of the prints are getting a great flood of light, better after adding the Alu foil, but not great, do you thing it would be worth it to add a 405nm cure light to the top to add more uv?

[@vogman]

Some curers have top UV lighting. Phrozen for instance. Personally with the foil and lots of bouncing UVs, I've never had a bad experience with curing 😁

[@charlesrestivo870]

Just turn off heater option in ultra sonic I'm a jeweler for over 40 years .I use ultra sonic daily

[@vogman]

Thanks for the "experienced" input 😁

[@itsleme4288]

Always remove support before cleaning its help alot keeping the resine clean longer

[@vogman]

Very true!

[@patrickdillon500]

@vog that model from the opening, the big hulking demon, where is that from? It’s an excellent model! I just bought my first printer on friday and I’m searching for model artists to follow.

[@sterkriger2572]

I think that the heating of the ultrasonic cleaner also bad for the IPA because it would make the alcohol evaporate faster

[@vogman]

It certainly could. A lid on the container is a wise precaution.

[@HeraldWitte]

It is like using a powerful water brush yet delicate. Spraying solvent with a pump action (flower watering) spray bottle. Over a bucket to collect over spray. Dip in warm water for easy support removal. Give it a good spray down with clean solvent. Let residue solvent sit in a airtight container for a day. Than pour it back in to the spray bottle (leave the gunk at the bottom). Ps. It is like using a powerful water brush yet delicate. Release pressure of the spray bottle when done.