Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra Redsin 3D Printer Review and First Print

[@EmilioHoffmann]

For the first print you forgot to remove the screws that come installed with the printer for security while shipping. Probably that prevented the vat from moving.

[@SteveSearle]

I feel your pain from when I started a few years ago. Tip, don't print direct to the plate, lift the model 5mm up in the slicer and use supports. It doesn't matter about leaving it overnight, that's how I do a lot of mine. Leaving it also means that excess resin drains back and you don't get the massive mess.

[@BossFdz]

Cheers from México. I'm watching your video as i learn the ropes with my Saturn just connected for the first time. Let's push trough, great video!

[@DirtPoorWargamer]

When it comes to getting things off of the build plate, I've found it's best to tune your "Burn In" (Lychee terminology) layers by lowering their exposure times. Essentially, slicers give the option for your first several layers to have different settings from the rest of the print, for build plate adhesion. If prints are hard to remove, lower the exposure time for these layers until removal is acceptable to you. Also note that this setting may need to be adjusted based on the weight of the pieces you're printing; larger pieces may fall off of the build plate when using settings intended for lighter ones, which is why I believe exposure time on these layers is set so high at default.

[@Andru92-96]

Nice job but you should have gotten Elegoo's heater!

[@Lychee3d]

The belt has probably prevent the vat from tilting. About the result you don't have shared your settings but I think your first layers are way too overexposed

[@ILove3DPrintingYT]

@@Lychee3d I did 35s for first layer

[@Lychee3d]

@@ILove3DPrintingYT Try 25sec and 5 layers

[@Bradley-o1l]

​​@@ILove3DPrintingYT 20 to 25 is heaps

[@davidwatson22]

Yes the default bottom times are too long mine was also very hard to get that test piece off. I designed some clips to hold the belt to the vat on my FDM printer in ASA. Just don't put a clip in the center of the rear as that stops the build plate from lowering I found that out but didn't cause any damage. The temp on the display is not the vat but the LCD temp. It takes me a good four hrs of cleaning up the STL files before I can start the print. I end up using a program called UVtools .it finds lots of faults that can cause prints to fail

[@FreevisualsNet]

Awesome stuff thanks

[@JSunBurns]

I bought the Elegoo heaters that bolt into the printer.

[@jamesbullo]

Maybe move the thicker part of the heater cable to the back of the vat and it won't block the vat from moving as much?

[@suedaklc1172]

hi, I wanted to ask what did you put inside the washing machine? IPA or just water?

[@ILove3DPrintingYT]

IPA

[@theSnapcaseLIVE]

hey man how is this heating solution working out for you??? saturn 4 ultra on the way and thinking about heating

[@ILove3DPrintingYT]

It works really well!

[@emmawilliamson711]

just came across your channel, how did you resolve printing with the belt? did you position the wire at a different spot? i have the same one so i couldn't get it to work with the moving vat, i just keep it on the vat for a few minutes to heat up the resin and then put it to the side ( i have a grow tent). My grow tent i think then warms up and keeps the temperature reasonable for printing with the brew belt inside because it has the reflective material. I'm also still a novice with resin printing but learning as i go, still need to figure out best settings for different resins and print and resin types (orientation, lift speed etc)

[@ILove3DPrintingYT]

@@emmawilliamson711 I managed to move the cable around to the front and not close the lid tight. I also put some extra flex inside to cater for the movement. I like the idea of having a grow tent to be honest. My concern is when it gets to the height of winter would it be sufficient

[@emmawilliamson711]

@@ILove3DPrintingYT i got a yoopai one, fits the saturn, has vents aswell so you can vent to outside if you have that setup. I print in my garage temps are fine coz of that but i cant vent to atmosphere so instead i have the mars mate and an additional air filter in garage, i open my garage door if i need to ventilate after prints but my air quality monitor is how i gauge that or if there is a strong smell, which so far there has not been.

[@gregsmith6935]

dont use a funnel. buy a thermo 50ml plus syringe. get a flex plate.

[@Riceyminimad]

It’s already got heaters built in

[@ILove3DPrintingYT]

NO WAY!

[@Bradley-o1l]

It doesn't have a heater built in.. It has a thermometer built in.

[@campaigngameminiaturesderm7084]

Tips: calibrate the exposure time by watching experts like fauxwargamer. ALWAYS Use supports for your model with either Chitubox or Lychee sofftware. Yes, take it off the build plate as soon as it is done. Wash it as you did in alcohol wearing gloves and the respirator as you did showing people what they need. Always chip away at the bottom with the scraper on the build plate. It will come off with trying and do not grab the model as you did. Good for showing what not to do. Make sure the model gets dry after washing BEFORE curing. 8K Resin is brittle as you saw. Abs-like resins are not and if you drop a model it should not even break as there is a certain ammount of flexibility. 8K resin is guaranteed to have good detail but in ABS-like, too. I can't really notice the difference. You just need practice and help and wathcing videos. I made lots of silly errors like not tightening the build plate enough on my previous printer resulting in longer legs and clownlike large shoes on my soldiers! The rest of the model was pretty good though! I redid them but with a secure build plate after levelling this time.