Mars 5 Ultra & Saturn 4 Ultra: INSIDE! Elegoo Resin 3D Printer

[@GeekDetour]

I had to Re-Upload my last video... after fixing a couple of things: 1) I wasn't using gloves and that's dangerous 😩 2) I made an "improvement" that didn't quite work 🤬 Please, help by liking and commenting something cool. Thank you guys!

[@germandelcorral7253]

I think it's really responsable from you to re-do that part of the video and upload it again (with all the disadvantages it means for you) to show your audience the proper way to do things. It proves you are a professional and also a great guy. Keep it up!

[@radiotbo4646]

I love your videos!!!! very nice editing

[@GeekDetour]

Hey Germán, thank you man! Yeah... I went to bed with a lighter heart. Everybody should wear gloves when dealing with resin.

[@ThatGuyKal]

I thought I was getting deja vu!

[@evanystabenow267]

Son, I’m a slow learner, but a fast fun and I see your dedication in making this , adjusting it, so to reach best level. I didn’t know you could make Timelapse in resin also. You dared to show the inside and that’s a plus. Such great effort couldn’t go without my drop of encouragement. Love you son and I admire your professionalism.

[@GeekDetour]

Hey mom! Thanks! ❤️ I am not happy… I missed the mark in this video, for 5 days. It seems everybody already watched a few reviews about it, they are satisfied and the interest is gone… I cannot push the click-through high enough for KZbin to recommend it to more people. Looks like I made a video very few people will watch 😩

[@evanystabenow267]

@@GeekDetour I understand, so sad about that son. 🥲♥️♥️

[@evanystabenow267]

⁠@@GeekDetour KZbin is recommending the video to me 😊 keeps doing.

[@vacarios]

It was really helpful to reference this video for figuring out the multiple exposure calibration function! Thanks so much for saving a few head scratches and a fair bit of time! Much love!

[@Lotorens]

how you dont have atleast a milion subs yet are a complete mystery to me. seriously your video quality, editing and the detail of your videos are insane. Please keep going we will share your videos just keep going!

[@GeekDetour]

Wow, thank you so much! ❤️ I didn’t make many videos - they take too long to make 🤣🤔 Frequency is very important on KZbin. The channel is growing - slowly. Your kindness made my day. I lost the launch mark for this video and now it is being pretty much ignored.

[@Lotorens]

@@GeekDetour sucks that the algorithm grind is this harsh. But i realy men it i have seen every video out there (or just about) about the Saturn 4 ultra and this is bar none the best. Makes sense when the rest have to pump them out so damn fast :-/ keep up your quality and **** the algorithm ;-)

[@terriblegamers2213]

Thank you for the fine tuning section of the video. I was getting failures in 1 quadrant of the build plate and it turned out that the build plate was not properly tensioned. Fixed my issue right away.

[@GeekDetour]

I am so glad it helped you ❤️ Thanks for letting me know!

[@RubberSoul73]

El mejor vídeo que he visto sobre esta Impresora 3D, ¡Gracias!

[@mzell36]

I had the same issu of « auto levelling » with my saturn 4. Thanks for the tip, no fail anymore!

[@jona4230]

how do u make the mars 5 ultra go to ''0''? cause i think i have the same issue

[@reytheist]

Fauxhammer sent me here. Thanks for the wonderful advice on leveling.

[@GeekDetour]

Wow! That’s great! Ross is a great guy!!! ❤️ have you tried it already?

[@reytheist]

@@GeekDetour No, about to do it as my plate lists to port haha. But it's so clear even I could manage!

[@GeekDetour]

You just put take the VAT out, home, then place a sheet of paper and in tools move the plate down until it “detects”/crashes down (then sensor will stop it moving more than it should). Ideally, all corners would be pressed with the same intensity. That’s probably not happening if you already measured differences.

[@robryan5478]

I'm one of the few who needs to adjust their screws - the visual guide will be a big help. Thank you!

[@nicholasvinkler1635]

Best video I've seen on it yet. Love it

[@GeekDetour]

Wow, thanks! ❤️

[@alfredanil]

Best review ever👌👍Thank you vrey much for all the details.🙏

[@GeekDetour]

Thank you! Your kind words means a lot!

[@paulpardee]

Man, I'm really disappointed your build plate modification didn't work. I was going to do the same thing! There's gotta be something we can do to break the surface tension there and force it to drip off. Maybe a polished edge? Maybe sand it on a bias so it drips toward one corner? Great video!

[@GeekDetour]

Thank you! Yeah... it looked like it improved and it looked very clean when I used other resins - but today I had to fix the video anyways because I wasn't wearing gloves, somebody commented that - and he was absolutely right... So I also had to re-print the balls in that same white resin to really SEE if the improvement was substantial. I think it got a bit cleaner, but I don't think it is worth the trouble to do the mod. I added the result, I had to do it.

[@MyTechFun]

That time lapse still looks very good (both)

[@GeekDetour]

Thanks Dr. Igor ❤️ I appreciate you coming to the revised video 🤣

[@jagcalle]

Would you mind doing a more in-depth video on how you manually levelled the S4U? Having serious issues getting anything to stick to a quarter of the buildplate, something I’d fix easily on my trusty mars2p by re-levling it. Which screws do I need to loosen, in what order if any, and how do I get it to go to 0 so I can actually fine-tune it without smashing the lcd.

[@CrazyMongol123]

I'm agree and ask for that video! Having such issue right now..

[@cakku02]

As a fresh saturn 4U owner this is super interesting! I think I'm going to try adjust my leveling with the screws, as I measured about 0.2mm variance in the plates level side to side from raft thickness. 🤔

[@GeekDetour]

That's great! Please, get some thread locking fluid if you don't have. Otherwise the screws might rotate and your adjustments will change with time. Let me know about your results!

[@TwoFrothyBeards]

Thank you for this video. Excellent as always. A small request: I would love to see how the COB Fresnel lens works. Thanks!

[@GeekDetour]

Thanks @TwoFrothyBeards ! I am happy you liked it! ❤️ I have a good demonstration about the Collimated Fresnel feature when Elegoo introduced it for the first time, with the Saturn 2 - you should watch it, you will find it very interesting! Here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5Wkp3eqqt6FacUsi=0btp_mqhDijLzhXB

[@Veefan3]

Loce your video ❤❤❤ im thinking about buying a resin printer and you helped me alot

[@GeekDetour]

I'm so glad you enjoyed and the video is helping in your soon-to-begin 3D Printing journey! ❤️

[@romainmantonnier2986]

Thanks so much

[@GeekDetour]

You're welcome! 🤗

[@claudianance6363]

I'm trying to find a video that addresses replacing the Mars 5 Ultra LCD screen. I can't find anything for the Mars 5 Ultra, even on Elegoo's website. I watched this video and found it to be exceptionally clear and concise. The big plus is that your video is actually for the Mars 5 Ultra. So many of the search results I got were for the Mars 4. None of these were of any help whatsoever. Anyway, I'm writing to ask you to PLEASE make a video of replacing the LCD screen on the Mars 5 Ultra. Thank you in advance!

[@markel661]

Do you know if it it's a decent idea to have the saturn 4 ultra on my bedroom if I use a fume extractor like yours + I have the printer inside a still air glove box?. I would like the toxicity to be close to 0% as I would be spending a lot of time in the bedroom

[@GeekDetour]

It is highly not recommended for you to have it in your bedroom - I once had mine in our bedroom and I could always feel the resin smell 😢

[@fukyu2123]

Thank you for a great dive into the inners of this printer. I'm about to pick one of these, but I'm thorn between the Mars 5 Ultra and the Saturn 3 Ultra, both have pros and cons, but as they cost me the same, which one would recommend picking?

[@GeekDetour]

Yeah, the Saturn 3 has a much bigger print size - the Mars 5 has the Tilt Mechanism and it is BY FAR easier to print since you mostly don’t have to worry about bed-leveling. If you are buying your first Resin 3D Printer, the Mars 5 Ultra will give you such a great and easier experience. Of course, if budget was not a concern, the Saturn 4 Ultra would be my choice.

[@mikejackson9585]

I'm wondering if the deformation in the FEP comes by the EXTRA long bottom layers suggested by Resione (70 seconds). I would imagine they generate a SIGNIFICANT amount of heat which could go a long way to deforming the FEP.

[@GeekDetour]

It could be heat - but it happened only where I had the failures, where the resin got stuck to the PFA instead of coming with the build plate.

[@ukaszuckiewicz2875]

Which one should I buy? I already have an FDM printer (ender 3 pro) and was thinking about getting a resin one for more detailed prints. I'm stuck between Mars 5 Ultra and Saturn 4 Ultra and I'm not sure which one I should get. Is Saturn worth the 130 euro difference?

[@GeekDetour]

If you have the money for the Saturn 4 Ultra, go for it. Bigger print area, Flip-Up cover is great. I think it is a better deal. But, sure, the Mars 5 Ultra is cheaper. Don’t go for the Mars 5 (non-ultra), since the Mars 4 Ultra has better resolution than the Mars 5 (non-ultra).

[@tjalivio]

beautiful breakdown. btw, how accurate are the print measurements of the printer? like if i put a 2mm box, does it print 2mm box accurately down to the last 0.00 digits or do we have to tweak some settings first?

[@GeekDetour]

Thanks! 🤗 Resin 3D Printers themselves should be quite accurate (X Y plane is an LCD, so, spot on fixed size physically) - the challenge is Resin Shrinkage after it is cured… It shrinks during a few days. If you need accurate final size, it must account for shrinkage that is different for every resin.

[@deviouscat0]

How come the bed jiggles in your method of timelapsing but not in the built in timelapse? I would also find a way to put your camera inside the printer so fumes don't get everywhere.

[@GeekDetour]

Hi there! It’s because the built-in TimeLapse takes photos when the VAT is UP. On my timelapse I am triggering when the VAT goes down. But I can also make the VAT look still in my external camera - and you can see it at 8:55 (I adjusted a delay in my trigger) See? The Vat is “quiet” if I want.

[@HouseProjections]

Thanks!

[@GeekDetour]

Wow! Thank you so much! It really helps ❤️ Have you tried the screws? I am curious.

[@HouseProjections]

​@@GeekDetourI apologize for missing your comment! I have been using the plate "as is" to run some tests, comparing the new build plate to the original, with stock gcode as well as adjusted gcode. Now that I have those numbers, I have a full set of benchmarks to know what type of changes I'm achieving with my tinkering. I'll let you know! Thanks again!

[@IndianaDiy]

Awesome Printer! But What slicer version works the best?, the beta crashes a lot.

[@GeekDetour]

Thanks you so much! That’s an excellent question: I could not test that objectively because I use an iMac from 2013. The last OS that I could run “officially” in my machine doesn’t run ANY of the current slicers. So I use a patched MacOS (OpenCore Legacy Patcher)… I had problems to make the new Chitubox Slicer Beta run on my Mac - so I attributed my troubles to my 11 year old Mac. For this review I used Chitubox Pro (it was what I could run on my machine). If you had trouble with the new Chitubox Beta, please, open a ticked with ChituSystems - they will fix it sooner if people tell them about any problems. I don’t like to use anything Beta for this reason.

[@antoniomilanesi3722]

Great video! I ask you one thing: what is that spray you use on the plate and on the miniature before removing it with the spatula? What is it for?

[@Shogun-c87]

I've had my Mars 5 Ultra almost a week but haven't started printing yet as I'm waiting on some ventilation parts. I did the paper test with my build plate and had the exact same quadrant that was a bit tight. I have adjusted my screws and I am satisfied that the build plate is much more level, but I am now wondering how long it will stay like that...

[@GeekDetour]

Did you use a thread locking fluid? It is worth buying: after it dries, the screw doesn’t rotate easily.

[@Shogun-c87]

@@GeekDetour I did not. Gonna see how printing goes.

[@GeekDetour]

I recommend you to get the thread-locking fluid. It is not expensive and you can use with any screws that you want to get firm / not unscrew by usage or vibration.

[@leowu6110]

I just got my Saturn 4 Ultra today and it doesn't seem to want to behave... Thanks a buch for your awesome video, I'll try the leveling advice right away! One strange thing though, after finishing a print my build plate does will not go Home, it just hovers the part a few centimeters from the tank and says that it finished. Is that the case for you as well? I couldn't see in your video.

[@GeekDetour]

That’s interesting… have you tried updating the firmware to the latest version? If I remember well, yes, after mine finishes printing, it goes all the way up.

[@leowu6110]

@@GeekDetour Yeah it's the latest firmware. Hmmm that's strange, would you mind sharing the G-code from your Chitubox? I suspect it might be that. Thx for the reply!

[@CrazyMongol123]

My printer do same..

[@TheRockDK]

I got the Saturn 4 Ultra now and I've printed your handle, thanks! Do you have this in an enclosure when not filming? The new lid design leaks the resin fumes all over compared to my older printer... I wonder if it's possible to give the lid a good seal, so I don't need to use an enclosure. Any suggestions are appreciated.

[@GeekDetour]

Hi! I am glad you enjoyed the handle! Did you use the adhesive one? Or the one you screw? I don’t print with resin inside our home anymore (we moved to a house where I have a separate workshop) One day I’ll install an extraction tube that I’ll use for the laser engraver and also the resin printers, and connect to the exit at the back of the Saturn 4 Ultra

[@TheRockDK]

@@GeekDetour I'm using the adhesive one. It's a little wobbly compared to using screws, but it's not coming off anytime soon. I'm really interested in a mod for the printer that makes it easier to hold the buildplate. Like a grip. Do you think there's a way to make a grip without drilling holes in it?

[@carbonguy]

Great video! I’m not sure if I saw this correctly but at the 9:04 mark are those trails of bubbles inside the tops of the towers? If they are I was hoping this tilting vat was going to get rid of those. Have you printed any of the Anycubic high clear or Siraya Blu Clear type resins. I would love to see a 75-100mm tall, clear and solid figurine type print to see if the trail of bubbles appear. In your opinion why would these appear?

[@GeekDetour]

Hi there, thank you! I think what we see there has more to do with my poorly applied spray painting that didn’t coat the interior of the piece properly. I noticed that too when I was editing and I had to check the part in my hand - I actually printed two and I only coated one, the raw part looks solid with no bubble effect, although a bit frosted, as resin parts look when you clean them well.

[@kensaiix]

8:50 that is an issue of surface tension, not of insufficient inclination. try a surfactant.

[@GeekDetour]

Well, we cannot add a surfactant to the Resin without messing up the resin. BUT, I still have a Voxelab Proxima Resin 3D Printer that has a bigger rounded slope in the edges and it actually finishes clean. If the Elegoo plate was thicker, I am sure I could reach the same result.

[@kensaiix]

@@GeekDetour nono. I don't mean surfactant added to the resin, i mean surfactant treatment for the upper side of the build plate. there are coatings and surface treatments that increase or decrease surface tension, depending on what is needed. I think the black side is merely cataphoretic painting, that could be actually disadvantageous regarding reflow. You can see how the raw resin is building up a thick uniform layer on there. Now look at how the resin is pearling off a fep film. Surface treatments may be as exotic as lotus effect paint or plasma. You may not have to be that fancy though, if you have the courage, i would suggest cleaning the surface thoroughly with IPA in an ultrasonic, and giving it a few sprays of teflon coat from a rattle can. You have to mask off the print side with tape ofc. Worst thing that can happen is you ruin a batch of resin.

[@GeekDetour]

My goodness, ha ha. I finally read your reply - very interesting! But it doesn’t look like a simple solution for the average Joe (I mean, me, ha ha). I prefer that the geometry itself would carry the resin out. Anyway, if you have a product in mind (like, a spray paint) that would be extremely slippery to the resin, I might try one day! 😁

[@АлександрБармин-ы9ф]

Good afternoon! Please tell me, there is such a problem, the Lego Mars 5 Ultra model does not stick to the table but remains on the film, the first few layers, and then prints idle. Lagoon water washable resin 8k. the illumination time of the lower layers (4) was set to 30, 60, 120 seconds. I checked your video, the sheet of paper is clamped exactly.

[@margreiv]

how do you get the plate close to the screen to calibrate? I see no Z-setting and I don't want to crush my screen!!!!

[@GeekDetour]

Hi there! You place a sheet of paper and use the “tools” section to move down. You can move it down from milliliter to millimeter when it gets close - but I was adventurous and I just relied on the Load Sensor in the ARM: I sent it down and it stoped as soon as the plate touched the paper.

[@nattthanx]

Hello everyone! Does anyone know if an LCD screen protector is necessary for this printer? If so, can you recommend a good one?

[@GeekDetour]

Check closely on the website - I think it has a “9 something” hardened glass on top of the LCD. I never used screen protectors on my resin printers (but I am extremely careful). Ask on forums because I don’t have a recommendation. Also, have in mind that adding a film on top you are increasing light diffraction and reducing sharpness of details.

[@HeitorDrive]

Muito bom!

[@GeekDetour]

Que legal que você gostou ❤️👍

[@noblelegacy670]

I'm very confused where does did the screen go.

[@GeekDetour]

The screen is on the same place: under the VAT - but the whole thing tilts down after every layer is printed.

[@HouseProjections]

I have tried 3 different versions of Chitubox Pro to run resin calibration prints. I numbered my own models, and rotated model #1 90 degrees to be sure. I have them laid out exactly the same way as you show. In my case however, my prints come out reversed. The #1 position ends up printing in the #8 spot. Instead of flipping the build plate from left to right 180 degrees, for me Chitubox flips the build plate front to back, simply moving the "back" row into the front. I have the same results in free and pro. Did the update change anything? You mentioned you hoped they change the layout.

[@GeekDetour]

Oh, you don’t mirror the parts - numbers will appear, well, mirrored. I have separated objects and I drag them to different positions. On the computer, you need to see the objects as they should appear in real life. What I did differently is that in the original stl, the parts were together as a single object and I broke them apart in Blender, and exported them to individual STLs. I hope I am explaining it properly 🤣

[@HouseProjections]

@@GeekDetour I'm sorry, I explained that poorly. I did not mirror them myself. I was only trying to illustrate my results. I numbered my models, have them laid out exactly as you show in the video as the successful order. They also match my own dry run using paper over the screen to view the lights, etc. Looking at the build plate in Chitubox, #1 should be placed at the back left. When it prints, it would be in the location of #1 on the touchpad, which looking at the machine would be the back LEFT now. The front right being #8, or the shortest time. When I run my print the model tagged #1 in Chitubox, and placed in the back right of the plate, prints on the front right, which corresponds to #8, the shortest time. I have to place my calibration models OPPOSITE of your layout, and Chirubox's layout, for them to work. I know this is a Chitubox issue, but if anyone else is having the same problem, they might not be aware. They may be looking at their results backwards. I have a photo that can explain it better, I'll post it for you in a moment. I've been trying to wrap my head around this for last few hours!

[@HouseProjections]

@@GeekDetour Thanks for the help! I just sorted out my issue. I did a complete and total removal of Chitubox, and a reinstall. Not just uninstall and reinstall, as I've done that numerous times with no change. I removed all traces. After a fresh install I now see the rotated #1 model printing in the expected #1 spot. This is with the same version of Chitubox that was printing incorrectly. Either way it's working now. Thank you again for the great information!

[@GeekDetour]

I am glad you could fix it now 😁 I had some fight with the latest version of Chitubox Basic - but that’s my Mac’s fault. It’s an 11 years old iMac i7 from 2013, and it runs a patched version of MacOS (unsupported) and it is showing the limits of what can run on it.

[@DanielChaves1984]

Curious if the Saturn 4 green lid will work on the 4 ultra?

[@mikebrave-makesgames5365]

how would you avoid it deforming the pfa film?

[@GeekDetour]

This is an excellent question: I don’t know if this resin will always deform the film, or if it happens if exposure time is wrong… That’s why this rubber resin is not for beginners. I still need to print more with it - this film is already ruined anyways. I’ll print with F69 a bit more on it and if I detect a pattern I might make a video about it.

[@canalpan9]

can you please compare their resolution on some detaied models .pls

[@PDaavyy]

My screen cracked on the first use 4 hours ago; I couldn’t even complete one print. I don’t think I did anything wrong. So disappointed. Do you have any suggestions?

[@GeekDetour]

Contact Elegoo’s support: they will probably send you a new screen.

[@catnipaddict126]

You definitely did something wrong. Like not checking the vat for debri from previous prints counts as your mistake

[@HardCoil]

Thanks for the tips. I was really wondering about the whole "auto leveling" thing. What's the deal with the spray?

[@GeekDetour]

Thank you! Please share the video if you can ❤️ Yeah, I need to make a short video about how I cure my parts.

[@helderlimaletsgo]

Duvida: pq vc cura suas peças submersas? No que elas sao submersas?

[@GeekDetour]

Água 💦 Eu curo minhas peças em água 😄 Vou fazer um vídeo sobre isso.

[@monsterdriftzz]

SO WHICH ONE HAS THE BETTER RESOLUTION THE MARS 5 ULTRA OR THE SATURN 4 ULTRA PLEASE HELP I NEED TO BUY ONE ASAP

[@GeekDetour]

The resolution of the Mars 5 Ultra is just a little higher (smaller pixels) but the Saturn 4 Ultra is not so much behind and the build size is so much bigger! My favorite is the Saturn 4 Ultra.

[@monsterdriftzz]

@GeekDetour man thanks for the fast reply 🙏 you just gained a loyal sub! I plan to make jewelry so what would you recommend I will be honest and say I already bought the mars 5 ultra but I can return it before it's opened

[@monsterdriftzz]

@GeekDetour price is not the issue but I don't want to buy something and wish I bought the other down the line

[@GeekDetour]

For Jewelry I think you made the right choice. On jewelry you want the finest resolution - unless you are making very big parts 🤣 The Mars 5 Ultra has an 18 micron pixel size and that’s the highest resolution you can find right now😎 That’s great!

[@kennethjrgensen6016]

Hi! How did you manage to get the test to go from 1234 over and 5678 under?

[@GeekDetour]

I changed the position of the objects on the build plate, in Chitubox. I manually moved them to the places where they would correspond to what the printer does.

[@evanystabenow267]

Valeu!

[@IGarrettI]

which one to get, Mars 5 U or Saturn 4?

[@GeekDetour]

Unless you work with Jewelry (the Mars 5 Ultra has the utmost highest resolution), the bigger print size of the Saturn 4 Ultra to me is the sweet spot. The Flip-Cover lid is also something I love. If you have the money, Saturn 4 Ultra.

[@IGarrettI]

@@GeekDetour ah damn, forgot I asked that and went for the mars 😂 the price is very nice. If I find the size lacking, I'll return it and get the Saturn

[@GeekDetour]

For miniatures the Mars has a big enough build size. I am more into functional parts and on a few occasions I could only print on Saturns.

[@IGarrettI]

@@GeekDetour ah okay. I think miniatures to figurines is what I want, and I don't mind slicing

[@monsterdriftzz]

​@GeekDetour so if I am buying one to make jewelry what makes better quality the mars 5 ultra or saturn 4 ultra