Eliminate Algae and Boost Your Pool's Chlorine Level with a Phosphate Remover - This Really Works!

[@luisfloresjr1759]

I’ve been doing this process and pool have been algae free. Thanks David.

[@stueydooey181]

Love your content and thank you. You are straight and to the point with everything. Could you tell me what digital tester you are using, I’m sure it’s pricey, but I’d love to have one.

[@drdrew3]

That tester is a LaMotte SpinTouch. Sells for about $1000 and the single use cartridges are also pricey

[@amaliaortiz8540]

Great video! I've been dealing with a algae problem for a while and my local pool store keeps telling us to shock it. Works for a bit and then we're back to square 1 😭. I'm gonna get my water tested and give this a try!

[@SPL]

Let me know how it works out for you. 👍

[@amaliaortiz8540]

@@SPL my phosphates are at 2500 and my cya is at 150 they recommend draining my pool what do you suggest. My biggest mistake was using dichloro-s-triazinetrione based products lots of lessons learned :(

[@SPL]

@@amaliaortiz8540 I think they are correct. Water is the cheapest thing still when compared to chemicals. For example, to treat phosphates at that level you are looking to spend a good $60 or more on the product and any CYA reducer is at least $30 a bag and you will need several bags. To refill a 14,000-gallon pool in my area of CA is around $90. Plus you get fresh water and a new start.

[@amaliaortiz8540]

@@SPL Thank you so much!

[@pauljones6321]

The way I understand, it the Phosfree bonds with the microscopic phosphate in the water to coagulate it, so that your filter will trap it. If you have algae in your pool, the phosphate (algae food) is already bound with the algae so the Phosfree does little to no good. So get rid of your algae first, then get rid of the phosphates, so that you don’t have any more algae problems ever again.

[@wyattfischbach7297]

What machine or digital test kit is that in your video?

[@SPL]

Spin Touch Mobile. An awesome machine.

[@alo300wsmsako7]

thanks dave for the tips your tips made it much easier to get my water treatment certification, since its very correlated and gave me good experience in handling chemicals. Now I am going to close down my pool accounts and focus on the water treatment thanks again, could not had done it without your knowledge. swimming pool water treatment is a good transition to water treatment is very similar to drinking water it will make it way easier to understand it. well it was fun working maintaining swimming pools.

[@IEraiderfan]

David, this is good stuff I used and swear by it now it works great thanks for the video keep them coming Liked and shared.👍👍👍👍👍

[@theguy8242]

Did the phosfree or remover slow your filter down? Never used but have heard that it can

[@QuaabQueb]

David, are phosphate removers better than algaecides ? To my understanding algaecide only kills the algae not remove it it's food source.

[@Fish-cj4ub]

Chargèro algaecides shouldn’t need to be added often or as often as phosphate removers should be.

[@SPL]

I think this works better because it removes the food source from the algae. So after one or two treatments you should be good.

[@drdrew3]

Phosphate removers are used to PREVENT algae from appearing while algaecides are TREATMENTS once algae is visibly present

[@andyponcia7722]

Which phosphate remover is better for the money? I've been using phosfree but a few people said to use pr10000. What's your advice? Interesting enough the pr10000 I guess goes into the pool and not the skimmer. I've never used pr10000 but am thinking of getting some.

[@SPL]

PR10000 is much stronger.

[@Jbyrd75901]

@@SPLI have been using pr10000 but it looks like phosremove is twice as strong or more and cost $102 a gallon verse $45 a quart for pr10000- I’m about to order a gallon of that as compared to Pr-10000 it would be the equivalent to $12.75 for the chemical ability of $45 of pl-10000 Thanks for turning me on to a less expensive product

[@toms8483]

Great video...I have a quick question though, how do u remove the caps along the pressure trim of built in stairs to inspect the screws underneath for water loss? Dont want to damage liner or the cap :(

[@SPL]

Anything that could cause the liner to separate should be referred out to a liner specialist. I had to have a skimmer replaced at one of my vinyl pools and the specialist did a great job. The danger is damaging the liner or causing it too pull away from the top since the weight of the water is a big factor.

[@acf846]

What is maintenance dose for 30k gallon. Also natural chemistry has another product called Pool Plus etc., Isn't this the maintenance product, or Leslie's product Weekly etc.. I have a couple tall old pines plus neighbors mulberyish type tree he never trims. Windy conditions

[@SPL]

They have a product called Pool Perfect + Phosfree. The Pool Perfect is an enzyme to help breakdown suntan lotion and prevent a scum line on the tile. I prefer just the straight Phosfree for algae treatment. Would say 12-16 oz for your size pool each week.

[@johncasor9698]

that borax 20/20 mule team. can i install hand soap brand ??? or must be say detergent soap???

[@drdrew3]

The main ingredient in Borax is sodium tetraborate. The name brand doesn’t matter as long as you are using the proper chemical. 20 Mule Team is just $5 a box at Target

[@alexgunawan98]

boss, what is the brand of your test water device there ? care to advice ? 🙏🏼

[@SPL]

That is the LaMotte Waterlink spin touch. 👍

[@jakemf1]

The Phosphate level gets high due to chlorine tabs use correct? SO I should monitor how many are in the floater? Thanks

[@SPL]

No,from stuff blowing in the pool. Fertilizer and dirt are common sources. They can blow in from over 1/4 of a mile away in some areas.

[@Fish-cj4ub]

jakemf1 tablets increase cya, not phosphates. It’s easy to get those confused though I get it

[@brianpappert1]

Why are you adding to the skimmer? What benefits does this provide? Its going to clog your filter faster and put stress on your grids/cartridges. For high levels I spread my Phosfree around the pool w the heaviest in path of pool returns.

[@lilgreesey123]

It tells you in the directions on the back to put it in your skimmer.

[@brianpappert1]

@@lilgreesey123 I get that. I've found it works just as well put in the pool plus you'll keep better circulation before a backwash or stripping a tank. I've never had a issue w phosphates after doing it that way. Ever.... I maintenance roughly 30 to 40 pools a week myself. I really recommend using commercial strength remover in smaller amounts. That will be your best bet

[@lilgreesey123]

@@brianpappert1 do you clean the filter after using the Phosphate free? Or is it fine without cleaning out the filter . I know before you add the Phosfree your filter needs to be cleaned but after is it needed.

[@brianpappert1]

@@lilgreesey123 typically, it's a good idea. Always keep an eye on your Filter Pressure. If your 5 pounds over your clean tank psi then you'll definitely need to at least backwash. A tank cleaning will be needed in your near future either way

[@lilgreesey123]

@@brianpappert1 hey thanks I just got into the pool industry 6 months ago now have 45 pools and have a few pools that keep having low chlorine reading with algea growing every week I come back. I used Phosfree 2 weeks straight and didn't notice it improving.

[@JP-ku3he]

How much do you charge your customers to remove phosphates?

[@SPL]

I just charge for the product at mark-up and for the filter cleaning if they are regular customers.

[@RideUrOwnRide]

Is this really necessary? I don’t have any problems with my pool but when I get my water tested at the pool store they say it’s getting hi. I read that if you keep your pool well balanced this is unnecessary no matter the readings of the phosphate’s. I am using the BBB method but add tabs and cal-hypo powder to control my chlorine levels

[@SPL]

Not needed. It is optional if you find that you have algae or the chlorine isn't holding. Just like a car all you need is the oild changed every 3,000-5,000 miles unless their is a problem no other maintenance is needed.

[@drdrew3]

I only use the phosphate remover if levels are high AND it’s warm water during the summer. Algae can barely grow during winter - especially if you’ve added borates

[@octaviogajardo1577]

Buen dato un abrazo desde chile

[@docfaceful]

Wow I been fighting algae in water at least twice a year for years and never tested phosphates. Oops!

[@josecastro-tn8ug]

The phospathe level in a pool should be 0....?

[@SPL]

0-300 ppb

[@josecastro-tn8ug]

@@SPL from 0 to 300 is ok??? 300 and up need treatment????

[@drdrew3]

@@josecastro-tn8ug Treat if over 300ppb. If still seeing algae and all other chemistry is balanced than get phosphates down to 0.

[@astonmartinkwpn]

Is this harmful for people or animals (DOGS)

[@SPL]

No, not at all.

[@astonmartinkwpn]

@@SPL Thank you. We are having major issues with our pool as our three golden retrievers love to swim and the pool is almost constantly cloudy or green even at times. The pool maintenance company dont seem to be able to sort it out and no longer want to service our pool. They say that the phosphate levels are veru high because of the dogs. Do you think that this is a solution - or should i be doing something else?

[@drdrew3]

Pools aren’t harmful to dogs but dogs can be harmful to pools

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

Agree a phosphate remover is very good for pool health. After decades of experience, never use anything to "boost", "condition" or otherwise add CYA (cyanuric acid). If you truly have zero CYA in your water, you need to slightly add more chlorine (easy to do). If it goes above 100 ppm, everything starts to go wrong, 200+ ppm = why is my pool water going bad? Way to fix high CYA? Drain pool and add fresh water (slow, annoying, and costly). Don't know how it got started to suggest adding CYA, boosters, conditioners, or even those god awful chlorine disks that are "tri..blah blah"... yeah, chlorine with CYA booster. Don't care, just know... don't add CYA....ever... if you like easy pool maintenance don't do it. Do add CYA/booster/conditioner to make your pool maintenance suck.

[@drdrew3]

A CYA level between 30-50ppm gives the ideal balance between chlorine potency and longevity. Outdoor pools need some stabilizer to maintain a sanitizer residual. This has been scientifically proven and confirmed for decades. Attempting to maintain a pool with zero CYA is a fool’s game

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

@@drdrew3 When you find a pool that can actually have zero CYA, let me know. CYA gets in the pool no matter what you do and the chlorine tabs add so much it quickly does the opposite... completely fails to sanitize. BTW: If you have any system to auto-stabilize/add chlorine, like a salt pool with a chlorinator, or any pump based system that auto-adds chlorine, your argument is total rubbish. There is one reason for CYA and only one... to help chlorine survive in the open sunlight. If you manually balance your pool, its essential. If you have an automated system, its worthless. Proof is paying attention and measuring for over 30 years. Funny how people who never actually measure and truly discover through trial and error always quote "science". You literally do not know what you are talking about. CYA is not needed at all. All it does, if at the right minimal level, is keep chlorine in tact in the sun. If too high, you can have correct chlorine and every other aspect in balance and watch your pool turn green because it does nothing to sanitize with too much CYA. The ONLY way to remove too much CYA is drain/dilute the pool water. BTW: Enjoying my crystal clear pool that I haven't done anything to maintain manually in over 60 days... because my pool takes care of itself. Please, don't act like an expert when your expertise is reading something and its not based on what you do with an actual pool over years, and years, and years.

[@austine2680]

These Phosphate removers vs Yellow Treat? What would you rather use for maintenance? There's a few pools with bad circulation design that I sprinkle yellow treat on as the last thing I do but if Phosphate removers is better then I'll switch.

[@SPL]

I think the Phosphate Remover is more effective. And it doesn't have a negative effect on the chlorine level, quite the opposite.

[@austine2680]

@@SPL I forgot to ask the cost difference. I go to a distributor for chems, as I assume you do. Cost difference between using phosphate vs Yellow treat for maintenance. Also which brand of phosphate remover do you recommend? I used to use concentrated orenda phosphate remover back in the day. That's stuff was pricey but super effective.

[@SPL]

I think the cost of the products are close given the different amounts you need to add of each if you are doing the straight maintenance dose.. I think the Phosphate Remover is the more effective in my testing. This season I have gone to 100% phosphate remover and no YellowTrine and the pools are all doing much better. The Phosfree stuff is pretty inexpensive but you got to shake the heck out of the bottle. The one gallon PhosRemove is better since you don't need to shake it and it is concentrated. Can't remember the price ofgfhand of that one -but not cheap either.

[@austine2680]

@@SPL Alright you convinced me. Switching to the gallon phosphate remover!