A-Type to J-Type conversion - Part 5 - Assembling The Transmission

[@williamlucas8793]

This series was timed perfectly for me as I am overhauling my 76 gearbox with a J type now. Thanks for the great content and instructions!

[@timmarsh6754]

Thank you for this Elin. Instructive as usual! 🙂

[@BaronVonWhosit]

Elin, the gasket you installed at 34:05 underneath the cover plate has a cutout that matches that oil return hump you mentioned (you can see the cutout in the gasket at 33:31). It looks like you installed it with the cutout on the bottom side of it instead of in line with the cutout. Not sure if the gasket will block the oil return passage.

[@markrobinson8539]

Yes he did. I think I would open it up and put it in the correct orientation.

[@RustyBeauties]

Uh, oh, never paid attention to that. I just went to the garage and checked another gasket (I have several) and yes, you are right. Well, I think I have some wrenching to do tomorrow :) Thank you!

[@markrobinson8539]

It''s easy to miss something like that and you can practice annealing the copper washers at the same time lol

[@HamishRacing]

another great Video Elin.

[@BruceBoschek]

Amazing detailed description, as usual. Thanks, Elin!

[@RustyBeauties]

Thanks Bruce! I am glad you are up and running again :) Say hi to Karin and Halgrim!

[@MrMikeyspfx]

Thanks for the very informative video. Awesome my friend. 👍👍

[@starckmad1779]

Elin, Another great step by step video! I personally like my Form A Gasket and a Ritz cracker and wash it down with Blue Moon!

[@RustyBeauties]

I like my rust crackers with form-a-gasket :)

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Very well explained! GOO'd job!

[@markrobinson8539]

Elin you might want to take the precaution of annealing the copper washers before you fit them. Heat them to cherry red and then drop them into cold water. It helped me a lot on my Blazer front hose flexible brake line sealing action. The non annealed washer was a bear to seal and felt funny on the torque wrench..it went easy and hard several times as I tightened the bolt. The annealed one felt smooth on the torque wrench all the way down and never leaked.

[@RustyBeauties]

That's a good advise. I never heard of it. Thanks! However here the pressure is not as high as the brake lines.

[@markrobinson8539]

It was something that was done to Triumph motorcycle, all copper head gaskets. When the copper is annealed it becomes soft and malleable. You don't know the state of the copper when you buy a copper washer, so it is better to anneal it to be sure. I think you will be fine in this case but it is a good thing to do in the future.

[@markrobinson8539]

Actually the brake line leaked just sitting there, so it leaked with little pressure. It was a banjo fitting to the front brake caliper with a copper washer on each of the two faces. I was surprised by how large the torque setting was. It felt strange as this was a bolt head that took a small 7/16 inch socket but the thread diameter was almost as big as the bolt head in this case.

[@hotttt28]

Much thanks!

[@peterbeckmann7545]

Thanks for the great video, again

[@Vespanation]

Question: Referring to the two thrust washers on the mainshaft, at 4:13 and 11:01 in the video. You mentioned that the front most one has a groove in it for oil, and that the groove goes towards the gear, and, that the rear one does not have a direction because it does not have a groove. But, in the factory parts book, and Moss catalog, both washers have the same part number. I'm thinking that on the rear one in your gearbox, the groove has worn away. I just took my gearbox apart and I can see that both my front and rear thrust washers are worn. On the front one, I can still see the groove, and on the rear one (more worn), I can still see where the groove was, but is no longer. So I think that they should both have a groove, and therefore, direction. Also, on the Moss page for this, it seems that the new ones they sell have no grooves, (or they are just photographing all the thrust washers on the non-grooved side).

[@davidberlanny3308]

Great video, very well explained. I'm really enjoying this series. I wondered about the Goo as well but you and Darrell have explained that perfectly thank you. If you able to, can you explain how the levers prevent both sets of gears being engaged at the same time, efectively locking the gearbox. The arrangement here seems to be different from my 1976 Spitfire, but its a long time since I had that car, almost 30 years!!. Good luck from Spain!!

[@RustyBeauties]

Well, I have finished this project and I don't know when I will have another one to have a chance to explain how the interlock works, but I have explained it last summer in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6jYeHWkr6mKhcU It is simple but ingenious...

[@davidberlanny3308]

@@RustyBeauties Thanks very much for the link and yes it is ingenious and you have made it simple to understand!! I had a quick search for the 1976 gearbox and it is different, it's called a single rail. I found an exploded view and saw the interlock plate that somehow I forgot to fit!! I drove down to the shops about 5 miles but when I came back the car just wouldn't move as both gear sets had become engaged. Luckily it's fairly easy to strip down lift the cover and refit the interlock. I can visualise you opening a can of Stella and shaking your head!!! Thanks once again for your videos they are bringing back many happy memories and I'm learning a lot!!

[@japaneseminitruckimportsll7634]

Can you please sir share with me the name of the repair book for a J type transmission M41 with overdrive, I Thank You for your help.

[@uweziegenbein3114]

Great, thanks for sharing with us! What is yours permatex it is ... for me it´s cruril ... i think it is the same :-)

[@drivewayshop]

Great info in this series. I have a gt6 OD gearbox I need to assemble some day. Is it basically the same?

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, and no :) It works the same way, but some of the parts look different. The countershaft for example on GT6 is one piece and you can't replace a single gear. The main difference is in the shifter. But I actually have a video series covering a non overdrive GT6 gearbox overhauling. kzbin.info/aero/PLLWNLIF9Lk96ibktN7sCAscX_92sZiVGx I have D-type overdrive transmission for my GT6 that I need to check one day, but I don't know hw soon that is going to be :)

[@cheftush]

Perfect bedtime video 😉

[@RustyBeauties]

I know right....

[@MrDazvere]

Won’t the thick grease block the oilways and channels? I have always used STP oil when assembling.

[@RustyBeauties]

It is transmission assembly goo, designed for that. Supposedly it gets dissolved with the oil.

[@MrDazvere]

@@RustyBeauties Thanks Elin. Just found some on the inter web and it gives this as part of the description. “Assemblee Goo will not melt at shop temperatures and provides "Tackiness" required during the assembly process. Yet it dissolves and solubilizes in transmission fluids at operating temperatures so as not to clog filters.”

[@donprice9050]

Which car is that transmission going into?

[@hotttt28]

Goop.?