Elna Supermatic Star Series - Pattern Cam Stack Drive Gear - Part 2 - Assembling and Adjusting

If you've watched Part 1 • Elna Supermatic Star S... of this video series, then you may be wondering how the machine goes back together and how it's adjusted. Well this video answers those questions in detail.
Covers models Elna Supermatic TSP, SU, ST, SP, ZZ, EC - free arm and flat bed.
In this part, I cover re-installation of the elnagraph assembly, aligning the needle bar, setting the hook timing and testing.
Keep an eye out for part 3 where I'll go through the details of adjusting pattern balance.
Let's keep these classic sewing machines going for as long as possible because they are great machines and the build quality is brilliant.
Please visit my web site at www.institches.co.nz
www.patreon.com/sewingmachines

[@irvingfallon5510]

I really enjoy your videos, particularly on Elma sewing machines and sergers in general. I recently came across very inexpensive ($15 American Dollars) Chinese made electric balloon pumps with 400 watt motors. About the size of a human male fist, so small enough to have on a work bench. I think coupled with a foot pedal, a few feet of 3/8” diameter silicone tubing and a short piece of 3/8” copper refrigeration tubing (or similar) and you would have a serviceable sewing lint blower for servicing sewing machines. For about the same cost as a can of “air.” I am about to make one for myself. I hope you like it.

[@robertbonnell4909]

I did the unthinkable, I hit the reverse lever while in reverse mode and chewed up my drive gear. I agree with your comment that Elna needed to put a warning label to advise users of the danger of a double reverse. I made one and placed it over the reverse lever, so never again!! Thanks to your detailed videos I managed to replace it and tune my mother's Elna that I inherited, the one she would sit beside me as I made craft projects so long ago. It works better than ever and I now have the confidence to make any adjustment to keep it in tip top shape. Thanks to your two amazing videos because it sat unused for so long but I am now jumping at the chance to sew anything that needs fixing.

[@debmilton7605]

I really appreciate your clear videos, and concise instructions. I don’t have a broken gear, but learn so much of how the machine functions while watching your videos, which helps trouble shoot other issues too.

[@tinyhandmadedolls4529]

In case anyone is wondering I’ve been following these steps on my slightly older 62C and so far everything is the same… except the clutch on the handwheel had a C clip to open. Waiting for the gear then time to try putting it all back together! Thank you for the exceptional detail and quality of your videos!

[@capedoryus]

Major thank you! I was up to putting gear back on main shaft but was not even close. Getting frustrated I checked you video again. What worked in 10 seconds? Standing up! Getting the overhead position was great!

[@vanessadonovan1119]

You are amazing!!! I was able to bring my beloved Elna back to work!!!

[@johnalex3023]

You’re videos are very well done. I like how you explain things. Very helpful. Thank you for doing them.

[@beatricebenda8887]

Wish I was close to this Elna EXPERT. awesome visuals.... Thank you In Stitches!

[@stephaniethomas3449]

Thank you so much for this video it has been amazingly helpful, especially with the adjustments, I have spent hours looking for help with those they're almost impossible to find. I've been working on getting my elna 62c (that I inherited from my grandmother ) working again. I have the repair manule but it olny gives basics, and for the life of me I can't figure out where I'm going worng with it. But your video helped me get passed where I was stuck before, so I'm eagerly awaiting part 3, so I can get the automatic feed working right so I can use cams again.

[@charleshanover5210]

Thank you for the excellent step-by-step instruction! This is the first time that I have repaired a sewing machine. Two repair shops declined to replace the gear, so you were our last hope! I found some things that may help others doing this repair: - Our machine has a modified reverse lever that prevents it from moving when a two layer cam is installed. - I suspect that the gear broke because the bracket that controls the lateral needle position was not freely pivoting. I removed the end cap and worked oil into both ends of the bracket. - I found that the bracket with the hole above the needle shaft to be useful: For the worm gear orientation, I set the needle shaft to the position that is best centered underneath the hole when the needle is at maximum height. To set the rise for the hook position adjustment I used a caliper to measure the distance from the bracket to the top of the needle shaft. - The gear that I purchased off of eBay from CKPSMS was binding on the shaft. The distance from the roll pin hole to the gear face is 0.35mm greater than on the original. I used wet/dry sandpaper to grind it down. It is also a different kind of plastic. I hope it lasts! Still, I’m glad that someone made it for a 50 year old design. It now works perfectly! I want to send you a one time thank you, instead of a subscription, for your instructions that saved the machine. How do I do that?

[@InStitches]

Thank you for your kind words and I'm pleased the video helped.

[@franreichenberg7466]

Great video thank you. Please do part 3 the stretch stitch balancing!

[@moulino5971]

Merci pour ces 2 vidéos très claires. J'ai commandé la pièce, je l'ai changé, j'ai remonté la machine à coudre: - l'aiguille n'attrape pas toujours le fil inférieur; - en couture droite, même si je règle la longueur du point dur 1, 2, 3 ou 4, les points sont trop longs + le fil inférieur n'est pas assez tendu (même si je tourne la minuscule molette); - en couture zig-zag: le pied de l'aiguille fait le zig-zag, mais finalement la couture est droite; - même si je tourne la mini vis pour régler la largeur de l'aiguille, soit l'aiguille est trop à gauche, soit trop à droite. J'en ai pleuré tellement j'ai cru que j'allais pouvoir la réparer seule; Je n'ai pas assez d'argent pour demander à un réparateur. Sauriez-vous m'aider ? (si vous parlez lentement je peux traduire avec un traducteur en ligne). Merci

[@andrewmoe2063]

Great and useful video. I have an Elna that sews perfectl straight stitches but no zig zag. I have the gear I'm ordering some better grade of Allen wrenches before I tackle the job but I'm encouraged. Thankyou.

[@galakz]

Excellent video and explanations. I really appreciate that you made these videos. Is part 3 still in the works? I'd love to see more videos showing adjustments and/or maintenance on these Elna machines. Thank you!

[@InStitches]

Yes, that's on the long to do list :)

[@GM-jp4mv]

I recently re-timed my needle, but ever since I can't go in reverse. Is the feed dog timing out? As soon as I reverse threads get caught up instantly. What could the issue be? And thank you for your videos!

[@dukeanddauphindonald8849]

Hi, the needle position dial on an Elna Supermatic I got at a tag sale doesn't move the needle. It just stays to the right. I had the machine working for a straight stitch and so it wasn't to big a deal but when I changed the stitch dial to zig zag, now the needle won't go all the way down. I don't think it's hitting anything but it just jams to a stop. Any suggestions for a solution would be greatly appreciated!

[@waynechapman8754]

I have replaced the Drive Gear as per your instructions, using your excellent instructions. There appears to be a broken "lever" inside the little casement with the arrow on the left hand side of the elnagraph unit. This "lever should make contact with the Cams. What is it called so I may look for a replacement part............?

[@theflyingbedstead]

This has been a fantastic video - thank you so much! I have successfully changed the cam gear on my SU following your instructions step by step. It’s great the way that you explain everything so clearly that I can understand what I’m doing and be confident that what I have done is right. The zigzag is now working but has highlighted a problem with the lower tension so I’ll be hunting for a tutorial on that! By the way, I have tried to find part 3 in this series, but can’t. Have you published it yet?

[@InStitches]

Thanks. I hope to get part 3 out soon.

[@tiemanmalcolm]

Thank you for these videos, priceless, we have a SU but we have to start the machine by rotating the wheel towards us to get it running, any idea what I might do to rectify this, and something seems to be slipping when we push all the way down on the foot control?

[@InStitches]

Thanks. Yes it is more than likely the drive idler pulley is worn. Replacements are available and they are fairly easy to replace.

[@annroland6987]

Thanks so much for such a detailed video, so helpful! It was great that you should how to time the machine too! I noticed that you did not grease the worm metal gear that meshes with the cam gear. Should I be adding some grease? Would you also be adding grease to the metal worm gear that meshes with the bobbin gear? Looking forward to more videos about the Elna Star Series.

[@InStitches]

I didn't show greasing because I plan on doing another video on lubrication. It's an easy part to get to and lubricate at any time.

[@capedoryus]

Thank you again! Yes it's done! Without this video I'm sure it would be put back into the closet for ever. I'm so grateful for this video. I tried typing in the patreon address but could not figure out who was who. Could you post a live link? Thanks. Any insight on how to get the links on the belt from hitting the plastic (broke one piece off already) containment box on the backside of the switch and plug receptical? I replaced the brushes in the motor. What a joy. How do you guys make money? It should be a simple task but no. Any tips on the belt/box clearance? I even thought of removing the light wiring. I did find a way to deal with the spring inside the faceplate or end cap that I would like to pass on as it's a royal PIA. place the small end of the spring one it's original pin. Machine has to be upside down. Wedge the spring end in place with a rag or anything that will not tear and flip machine. Spring should still be on pin. Take and return other end to original position. Remove rag. Done

[@InStitches]

Thanks. I get the spring on by making sure the needle bar is on the left throw of the zig zag and I use a small pair of long nose pliers which makes the job very quick and easy. The belt hitting the inside of the machine is not adjustable and would indicate that the belt may be stretched and may need replacing.

[@briansorensen3359]

Hi Thanks for the great tutorial how to replace the zig zag cog. I have followed your repair to the letter, but Now can’t make the needle catch the bobbing thread. Have checked the hook timing and it is ok. Not sure what to do next?? Regards Brian

[@InStitches]

Thanks. Make sure the needle is new and inserted correctly and that the needle bar height is correct.

[@jimmorrisonandthefloors2480]

Greetings, thank you! My Elna SU is having trouble with the buttonhole feature. When switching from 2 to 4 and back to 2 the width doesn’t line up. And the stitch length changes from the left-forward motion from nice to longer on the back right-backward cycle Also the double cams don’t work although the followers are working. Could these be caused by something worn out or broken? Thanks

[@InStitches]

It's more than likely an adjustment required. I'm getting quite a few requests to produce part 3 in the series so I'll make that a priority. Thanks.

[@tinyhandmadedolls4529]

I can’t believe I managed to do this, it’s all thanks to this brilliant detailed video. The zigzag now works and all the built in stitches too but for some reason I’ve tried the double cams and the stitch comes out looking wrong or squished. I used a new needle and firm fabric, do you have any tips I can try? I’m doing my best to clean/tighten/lubricate everything but I’m at a bit of a loss of what else to do.

[@InStitches]

Hi, It's a reasonably complicated adjustment and I have not as yet produced a video covering this subject. I hope to get to it soon. You could try downloading the service manual which has all the info you need. Thanks.

[@tinyhandmadedolls4529]

Ahh I see-this is the third video you’ve mentioned that people are asking about in the comments! Well I have a long to do list myself so I understand it may not show up anytime soon! Thank you so much for the reply I will have a look at the service manual. Glad to know it’s not a simple thing I just missed.

[@megumimills7480]

Can’t find much on KZbin about my particular problem. I’m not sure what needs to be done for my machine. When the hook race ring holders are in place, there is resistance in the movement. You don’t do virtual maintenance do you???

[@InStitches]

Yes I do. You can email me. You'll find my web address in the video description. Thanks.

[@r.duroucher225]

Do you have any advice as to how to adjust the needle so that it is centred properly on straight stitch and that it does not touch the needle plate either on the left or right? Mine seems to be fine on the left but the needle very slightly touches the needle plate on the left.

[@InStitches]

Yes, you can email me via my website. Link in description.

[@jussinator]

Hi, I've followed both parts of the video and successfully fitted the new cog - however, it has highlighted another problem that I wasn't aware of: The mechanism above the light bulb that moves the needle shaft from side to side for zigzag and pattern stitches is stiff - the spring is present but is not strong enough to pull the shaft to the left as needed. I can't find anything online to help with this - any ideas beyond oiling the parts I can see? Thanks

[@InStitches]

Try getting lubricant into the bearings in the mechanism. Work the oil in and make sure to warm machine to room temperature or leave it in the sun for a while.

[@jussinator]

@@InStitches thanks for your super quick response! Do you know of a way to take that front part of the machine off above the bulb? I feel that if I could remove that part I could better get in there to give it a good clean and lube, but can't find how to do it online. It's so frustrating to struggle with the other repair and fall at the final hurdle! Thanks

[@InStitches]

@@jussinator Take a look at the video at around 31 minutes. Cheers.

[@jussinator]

@@InStitches Wow, I can't believe I didn't take this in the first time! I loosened the screw ready to adjust the concentric screw and the bar clicked into place - it hadn't been properly seated when I re-installed it and it was this that was preventing the needle shaft from moving freely - I feel like such an idiot! As soon as it was seated and adjusted the needle shaft was moving perfectly left and right as it should be. I've tested the machine and it now seems to work perfectly - I've even tried using the Elnagraph for the first time and the pattern was perfect! The only remaining thing is a slight noise from the spring in the base of the machine but I can live with that. Thank you so much for sharing such an informative series of videos - I wouldn't/couldn't have done it without your repeated help!

[@InStitches]

@@jussinator I'm please you got your machine sorted.

[@cherkruger1166]

I am having trouble with the needle position wheel, I have oiled it and applied heat, the heat loosens it up but as soon as it has cooled it is difficult to move, please help what can I do? Thanks for a great video and all the trouble you went to to show how to repair

[@shorelined1]

I used wd40 and sometimes goof-off in minute amounts from tip of toothpick to break up old oil. I could see it working as yellow residue would run after repeated reheats and solvent applications. It took mine some sitting overnight a few days to leach out the build up. I only wish I hadn't put too much force on it second day & caused hairline cracks at center of wheel. Also, solvent took off some of the needle position markings. Just keep it clean & try to prevent any contact with paint too.

[@InStitches]

Try a penetrating oil such as WD40 or CRC 556 until it's free when cooled. Then put oil on it.

[@cherkruger1166]

@@shorelined1 I was afraid to use the wd40 as it says on the can we get here in SA that it should not be used on plastic, I came right with Q20 and heat over a period of 3 days then I put machine oil on and it loosend up and it is working perfectly. Perhaps you can repair the cracks with ca glue and then use a marker for the positions, hope that can help you.Thanks for the reply

[@cherkruger1166]

@@InStitches Thank you for your reply, I used Q20 in small squirts then used a paint brush to loosen it up, it was difficult to get it to move but thankfully with some oil it is now working perfectly

[@shorelined1]

@@cherkruger1166 Congratulations on getting it fixed!

[@chevydoctor]

It is too bad that you are on the other side of the earth from me. I would love to work as your apprentice a while.