I Made My 3D Printer 10ft Tall

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[@sqiudy-catmedland1421]

This is absolutely unhinged and i love it, i now need to see an emily sized 3d printed emily

[@LisaMiza]

emily printing emily sounds amazing and we need it!

[@joaomrtins]

Just like the Spanish guy from the large 3d printers

[@danielkorrmann5467]

Only 100 Years Printtime xD

[@StefanReich]

An Emily sized Emily... spooky

[@shadearray]

​@@joaomrtinsIvan Miranda?

[@SecondLifeDesigner]

Try printing something inside a tube and then use lateral supports that connect your inner print with the outer tube. You can make the outer tube full of holes to cut down on the amount of filament you need. This should help make your print more stable and eliminate the nozzle pushing the print around as it gets taller.

[@DrewLSsix]

I'm thinking printed supports that can clip to the frame and be positioned to hold the print as it gets taller. Might be smart to pause the print and be very careful to not move it in the process.

[@buZztiaan]

i called this trick a 'draft shield' and some slicers even allow to make the skirt more than 1 layer high, so you don't even need to CAD it up ;)

[@pfinton]

Would also like to try a plus shaped support (like fins all the way up), possibly less material than a circle

[@nono-nm1zl]

i think you could achive the same thing with string

[@greenredmario]

@MatPandaZ yea but then you need a really massive base 💀 which is probably a lot more expensive to source than two long vertical beams

[@ratgreen]

It actually worked way better than I thought it would. There is a cura plugin that slows down the print speed based on Z layer height, I think slowing down as you get higher would help a lot. Also maybe if you can, make clips that clip to the Z rails, and attach to the print, like the supports that hold up a space rocket on the launchpad. You'd have to add them manually as the print gets higher.

[@FreshPe]

Well the print moves back and forth, while the z rails are stationary 😅

[@MrNathanstenzel]

I agree with the Cura part. Supports need to be part of the print though.

[@ratgreen]

@@FreshPe oh yes I forgot it was the bed that moves woops

[@Nevir202]

Perhaps one could make some kind of overly complex follower that moves itself up the rails and reaches in to gently support the piece, while said support follows the bed motion, so no matter how high you were printing, it would be like you were never more than a handful of inches above the bed? 🤔

[@MrNathanstenzel]

@@Nevir202 adding in a perimeter wall and support trusses from it to the part would be an idea.

[@gruzzob]

It's... Beautiful. The sword might have come out slightly better if it was rotated 90 degrees, as that way it wont be wobbling quite so much as the bed slings. Won't do anything for the nozzle dragging though.

[@randallbourque1321]

I was thinking the same thing. The other part would be flow and retraction. There was alot of stringing and if the print head is moving the print, then you likely have not calibrated it as much as you could. Great video though lol.

[@SeeCoryRun]

You two are hilarious! This is the first 3D printing video in so long to genuinely make me laugh while peaking the interest of my armchair engineer core. This was AWESOME, you have a new sub for sure, keep it up!

[@ExcusetheMess]

6:39 the banding makes sense if you think about the amount of backlash you get from the stretch of a 10’ belt driven z axis. It gets better the shorter the belt.

[@hgec]

You need to use a printing system that moves in both Z and X. No moving surface. This will both improve stability and prevent a situation where the weight is too great for the surface. And also in the filling of the print it is worthwhile for you to use a strong filling in a way that will make it harder.

[@jowjor]

Yes a core XY would be great. But there is something that can be done, it's trying to stiffen the part by printing support towers in each corners, that bridge to the part every few cm.

[@JV-pu8kx]

Or thicker walls.

[@truetech4158]

@@JV-pu8kx Or SLA. A swimming pool printer conversion. Or, a entire 40 story building sized SLA printer, with submarines floating in it with laser beams attached to them, rapid spaceship production line, like boston dynamics meets the rock band boston!

[@newolde1]

​@@truetech4158this is the way!

[@conorstewart2214]

Printers without moving beds do exist, they are mainly core XY designs.

[@jacobrollins37]

This might be a dumb 3D printer but you were smart enough to make it work.

[@MattGrayYES]

Love it! Properly laughed out loud at the sun roof!

[@thecaptainnoodles]

matt gray i llove you

[@Spaceman957]

This is the first video I've ever seen from Emily and I'm already all in.

[@ElukeNL]

2nded. Subscribed.

[@HuzaifaM123]

I never thought there be a day in my life when there's a printer taller than me at 6'1...

[@LucasJed]

swish

[@smorrow]

Hangprinter

[@stikosek]

I haven't laughed like that for a really long time, absolutely fantastic video!

[@ZappyOh]

A delta-printer would be a better choice for this, I think.

[@daliasprints9798]

Absolutely, but you still need some chonky or reinforced extrusions, not 2040. Maybe 6060 or something.

[@bosstowndynamics5488]

I would have thought a Voron 2.4 style flying gantry would be best, that would minimise forces on the in progress print but would be a bit easier than a delta

[@daliasprints9798]

@@bosstowndynamics5488 Corexy is much higher build complexity and BOM cost than delta for a worse outcome. Especially if you're going for a flying gantry rather than descending bed.

[@donepearce]

I think Colin Furze needs to know about this.

[@ahkine4096]

This is mental, and i am totally here for it. We need to get her and simone giertz together. imagine the world they could build.

[@PROG-MAN]

"I just did it for the meme.. but the meme worked. So what if we made it useful?" Proceeds to make a ten foot tall cowboy hat

[@path.of.the.salaf.]

Eiffel tower was really amazing tbh. Make more crazy things pls. Love all the crazy stuff you build on the channel ❤

[@quintunesp]

OMG, I just Love this content you have made recently, you literally engineer things to be fun, even if a little silly, but extremely entertaining, and I am thinking about the handle of a certain axe to be printed in this now 😂

[@user-um4qk9du9h]

That worked insanely well I can’t wait to see what it looks like with improvements.

[@alexsalchemy]

20 seconds into this video and I already love your entire approach, this is amazing.

[@juanrodes1434]

I should have discovered this channel waaaay before. I love the memes, the crazy as hell ideas, it's... BRILLANT!

[@Subcontrabassoon]

As someone working on a very tall musical instrument using 3D-printing for the prototype, I was linked to your video about 8 times! Keep up the great work.

[@thatcatthatalwayseatsyourc1493]

Well done, I hope the instrument makes any noise

[@thomasawl]

3:49 i love everything about this shot. The stretched benchy, the noise she makes, the power pack just there on the floor, the YPO pritt-stick.

[@davejones1578]

RIP (rest in pieces) Dan's first printer 💔

[@BuildDanielBuild]

he'll be dearly missed

[@josuelservin]

Dan's first 3d printer is dead, looooooooooong live Dan's first 3d printer.

[@TheMadJoker87]

if you modify the printer so the Y axis is part of the printing head instead of moving the bed you could build an enclosure and add sand around the already printed part of the model as it goes up, that would add stability and improve the quality of the top part of the print exponentially.

[@totallyuneekname]

I like the sand idea! If the object is hollow, I wonder if you'd have to also pour sand into it as well to prevent it from collapsing.

[@ShankarSivarajan]

@@totallyuneekname That's messy! Better would be something like using jamming-transition robot grippers (not as expensive as they sound! In fact, for this application, since you don't need precision _or_ strength, they can be positively cheap) to hold the lower parts of the object in place.

[@6moon.s]

rotate the sword 90 degrees so that its inertia doesn't have as much of an impact during y travels. same concept applies to lithophanes or any print that is prone to swaying back and forth (which gets worse as the print gets taller for obvious reasons) also this mod is probably better suited to a delta. one might think core-xy, but print will get heavy and make bed sag. delta bed is unmoving in all axes. that could be dope edit: also do max vol flow testing and cap it there so that ur prints stop breaking when u try to remove them from the bed lol. max vol flow testing applies to something even as silly as this. see cnc kitchen videos about poop tests

[@KittenRaee]

Flying gantry coreXY. 3m tall voron 2.4

[@EgorKaskader]

​@@KittenRaeeThe cost of those Z-rails is going to be pure murder Maybe a belt-driven Trident?..

[@corrupted_serpentgaming2201]

This is the first video I have watched made by you, you definitely deserve a subscribe!

[@eagle3906]

Awesome! Adding string every 2 feet or whenever you need it and tying (or taping) the string to the uprights under tension helps keep everything stable!

[@minecrafter0505]

You know these contour measuring tools (Contour gauges I've seen them called) that use a lot of pins to exactly copy the contour of an object, so you can trace it somewhere else? You should have these at height intervals and move them in once the printhead has passed to fix the print in place and stop it from moving

[@Iisakkiik]

This is amazing ahaha. When you said you were printing a meme, long among us was my first thought I'd make with this, so glad to see it in the video lol. I'm guessing a coreXY printer might work better with this, as it wouldn't (bed)sling back and forth making the pronted model wobble as much (hopefully).

[@holzwurm_hd7029]

I love this woman, by far my Favorite channel for diy stuff.

[@Neonalius]

Just discovered this channel and really enjoy the humor she has. Definitely worth a subscribe.

[@SeabornNomad]

I wish I had friends like emily who shared these passions, so much more fun and practical than being glued to a phone or gaming console

[@spagamoto]

We're out there, I promise.

[@dsp4392]

Get out of the house. Join a club. There are people like this literally everywhere.

[@lordfly88]

Wow, I can't believe how well that worked on a bed slinger! Hilarious and interesting, well done!

[@sohamjha5966]

Just being an engineer. Just held back by money, and beyond expectations ideas made real by engineering.

[@machinerin151]

I am in love with you rn. You are doing the best thing an engineer can possibly do.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

A while back, many years ago, someone upsized their Ultimaker Original to print very tall as you have A few things on those print fails - did you use Z hop? Also, there's a few things you could do for that sword print, like layer time and Minimum Infill Area could fill in those areas as well. Neat project tho!

[@DaveEtchells]

Haha, Briilliant! (Actually, I think it was a perfectly appropriate sponsor 😂) Clearly the next thing to do is modify an Ender 5 S1: the moving gantry/fixed bed would eliminate the wobble problems from the moving bed, and it prints a heck of a lot faster. You could use wires with turnbuckles as cross-braces to make the frame itself super-stiff, so I bet you’d get pretty decent prints even with thinner objects. And I’m sure Creality would be happy to give you the printer to mod! 😁

[@outofdarts]

This was entertaining from start to finish! The Doug Dim-Amog was just the cherry on top.

[@jonathandill3557]

A simple counterweight on a pulley hung from the ceiling to balance the weight of the head assembly might help reduce the stretch on the belt and wear on the stepper motors. Lateral "support material" inside or around the part might be a good idea to reduce flexing, like ribs and ridges.

[@aronjakob1]

Hey Emily, the spectacle is ridiculous and I love it. I've got an idea that could improve print quality and is also pretty goofy. Turn the printer upside down, remove the build plate and the hot end gantry and servo. Mount the build plate to your fancy belt driven z axis, and mount the hot end gantry to the gantry that had the build plate on it. Mount the printer to your ceiling, reverse the z axis in the firmware, and voila, a printer that only moves the print bed down the z axis and won't wobble your long prints. I know there's only like a .1% you'd do this, but if you do then I'll subscribe. Pretty fair deal if you ask me.

[@KaneTheMediocre]

I bet you can do more complex parts without any tweaks at all. They just need to be wide on the x AND y axes so the nozzle can't push them around so easily. Also, great to see more people using 1mm nozzles.

[@pennplayz]

such a fun vibe and energy, loved the video and subscribed!

[@Mimerneos]

This was both hilarious, and brililant. If you do the same thing with a coreXY instead of a bed slinger, I bet you'd get all the detail you'd want

[@jlnrdeep]

6:36 Fun fact, that banding is caused by the bed temperature cycle, that's why when the print is far away from the bed the banding starts to dissapear. that's why it's important to PID tune even your bed temperature.

[@BuildDanielBuild]

E N GinEErIONg

[@josav09]

That worked way better than I expected

[@Rocketeer6]

This is the kind of engineering content I need in my life❤❤❤ that cursed bench had me dying 😂🤣

[@benben9794]

I’ve always seen “I made this giant 3d printer” blah blah blah… my question is… how small can you make one? What is the smallest functional 3d printer? Now I should state that when I say smallest I don’t just mean a nozzle that can only print straight upwards but like a 3d printer that has a tiny working space but is still useful for certain applications

[@RJ-wx3fh]

I think the obvious killer is height to width ratio when it comes to stability, hence why the sword had more problems than the tubes. I've used older 3d printers that had an auto setting to print a support wall around the part to reduce shrinkage and warping by stabilising the temperature and seen several prints like the 'hairy lion' where a central part is bound to an exterior wall by horizontal support threads. I think there'd be some surprisingly good potential if you could expand the bed, add that outer support wall as wide as possible and tie it to the main structure using support threads- maybe more like a 3ft wide base with CNC router servos (for the weight) and 5ft of height than 10 ft , but some surprisingly sturdy and accurate big prints could be made.

[@doctorzoidberg1715]

This is the first video I ever saw of yours.i like the fact that your humor is the same as those found in peter sripol and what not's videos.

[@porticojunction]

Loving your enthusiasm, great work!

[@WouterZtube]

Didn’t see any of your videos before, but you are a goofball genius. Love it!

[@THOR_THE_GOD]

It's cool seeing a 3D printing couple! Very inspiring, thank you! 💯

[@dragontype191]

So fun fact and something that can help if you decide to continue with this shenanigans- if you use prusa slicer, enable supports on bed only, change to organic (tree) supports, then paint the sides at random points going up the print, you can add essentially break away braces for tall thin objects- or not thin but extremely tall objects in this case. Would have been a perfect use case for the sword print! 😁

[@Skoopa92]

This is the first video I've seen from this channel and I love the mix of tech / learning and memes. perfect blend

[@diy_wizard]

this is crazy! and the print quality is very amazing!

[@brookspotts9312]

It's probably been stated a million times. THIS IS AWESOME. Secondly, you need a gantry that can move in X,Y, and Z. the beds travel transfers motion into your print. Here is what you are seeing; As the print gets taller, the waves from the vibration traveling through the plastic, eventually equal out, so all the sudden you get a perfectly good print, and then it deteriorates, then becomes good again. The geometry of the shape will determine where that motion bounces off of in the plastic and how accurate the print will be. The more you increase the softness of the start and end motion of the bed, the better. Sadly, the taller and heavier the print gets, you also tax the stepper in reference to torque. I believe that's why the hat came out as good as it did since it was a hollow cylinder. This is awesome though, and a fun example of how diverse 3D printers are.

[@bliska8434]

this absolutely needs to be modded to a corexy. amazing idea for an old ender mod.

[@gjallarhorn4504]

You should print something tall with a lot of surface area on the base and use gluestick to make sure the print does not start moving. Glue stick is amazing for that but sometimes tough to get it off the bed unless you have a flexible build plate.

[@XxGameBusterxX]

I havent seen your videos in awhile but recall them being fun shorts about printing ironman suits. Seeing you now unhinged from 3D printing makes laugh.

[@Paradox-lj3td]

THIS IS THE BEST 3D PRINTING VIDEO EVER.

[@First_StateX]

Love it ! Totally off the hook !

[@rob10856]

Try it with a core x-y and after each foot or so is printed add some ‘strapping’ to hold the print steady in place.

[@sleepib]

This is making me feel a lot better about the 2M tall corexy build I'm planning.

[@Lizlodude]

That...actually worked a lot better than I expected. I too had to learn to edit my printer's firmware when I added a new probe. Which was actually pretty easy...until I realized that the FW was slightly too large for the Arduino IDE to compile, which led to learning a standalone compiler and then a FW plugin for Octoprint and wait this isn't a small project anymore.

[@jackyoung3368]

you would have better luck with a core XY printer, because the bed doesn't move in the direction where it tends to wobble. loved the video

[@MarkRiverbank]

I think a delta might be ideal since the acceleration is predominantly vertical. Besides, a 10’ tall delta would look like something from a science fiction movie.

[@ConnorSinclairCavin]

Y’all are way too awesome, i SO wish i could come help with the crazy shenanigans

[@VictorDeLeon-rw2du]

fr...

[@YukoFurry]

This channel is a gem, how did I not find it earlier :D

[@wake-archus]

this stuff is honestly my jam.

[@rodiona8781]

So wholesome when Dan calls his first printer "Sweet Prints"

[@ktankinfinity]

This is stupidly beautiful and i love it

[@keenheat3335]

to scale this up even further, i guess you can attach the printer head to a fly drone. So the size limit is only limited by power wire length connecting to the drone. For accurate positioning of the printer head, probably need a lidar sensor link to the printer head with another set of serve to compensate for the sway of the drone. Probably with some PID controller to handle the position error with the lidar reading as the reference.

[@ytuser4562]

Not only is this interesting as a meme, but it seems to work well enough to have some practical potential. Maybe not 10 feet, but this certainly proves that taller printers are totally attainable!

[@dolphin64575]

Not sure why KZbin suggested this to me, but you're amazing and I can't wait to see your other stuff ❤

[@Zach.O]

i was not expecting that to work this well

[@itsmatka8384]

when I was 6 years old, I made a 4' tall dunce hat for school's hat day. Same issue with the wobble. We used high test string from the top to hold in each hand. The balance becomes a lot easier and you can make it wobble at will. Maybe something worth trying.

[@coolkid7500]

No way! I just built that same belt driven conversion. Definitely great!

[@brianclark3338]

This is what true engineering looks like. Carry on you beautiful amazing people!

[@UncleJessy]

😂"Dan, I will literally not pay you" 🤣

[@darraghtalorgan1905]

you could add struts to the side panels of the 3d printer at set heights and add horizontal anchors for more stability for higher prints

[@glennboyd939]

Add a tower to each corner of the bed, and occasionally bridge each tower to the main print. Uses maximum bed size for stability.

[@iggyboo]

I wasn't expecting this to work but surprisingly ... not useless. Good show!

[@rando5673]

Have struts connected to 4' x 4' sheet of 3/4" plywood so it's secured to the "floor" as well as the ceiling. Something similar is done for gym equipment to reduce wobble

[@michaeltorres877]

I love your "brilliant" ideas.

[@quidproquo9000]

I think the fact that the bed translates in the y axis gives you the wobble, it would probably work way better as core-xy

[@iopfarmer]

It is so beautiful that the print finish at all.😮

[@denvera1g1]

To print things like swords, consider outfill. Or a tube with a sword shaped infill

[@SpeedyGwen]

omfg thats sooo amazing ! now I kinda wannya extend my ender 3 eventho I never printed something close to its height limitations x3

[@ollie-d]

I remember there was this other video talking about 3D printing large metal cylinders for spacecraft and they would simulate the print in order to account for distortion and correct for it during printing. If you had some enclosure for this to control the setting a little better, I think you could utilize that methodology here

[@jimsamson7934]

Fantastic. I laughed so hard when you were driving with the hat lmao

[@jimsamson7934]

Also, for those long prints, I'm sure its failing because of the y-axis. Swinging a large object is probably making the print touch the nozzle. So print slower!

[@BE-dj6cp]

The problem is the force on the x-y axis is being applied below the center of gravity, thereby creating a moment of inertia causing the print body to rotate. The taller the body the more torque is applied and there are additional forces once the body begins to rotate off the z-axis, e.g. gravitational force, flex, resonance and even a small amount of tension as the hot plastic retains some elasticity as it follows along behind the extruder. Some ways to counteract the torque and improve quality increasing in complexity: 1. Print a support cylinder for all tall prints designed to break away. This is wasteful but easy to do. 2. Slow down the x-y motors to minimize the acceleration being applied at the base once the build gets over a certain height. 3. Reusable support(s) 1 meter in length could be mounted to the base by printing the a circular mount to the base and fastening the support cylinder to it with screws. Then, print an infill support between the print body and the reusable support cylinder in a way that another support could be added on top. The z-axis would need to be moved to home position (top) during install of supports. 4. Add more axes. A 5-axis or 6-axis 3D printer can apply equal but opposite torque by independent rotation of the extruder and base. The addition of two more stepper motors to the base and extruder too so that the print body and extruder can both rotate off the x-y plane. Very complicated and some additional hardware like solenoid sensors and a lot of firmware and maybe some lasers in the head to detect motion of the body idk ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@MaxR52]

"Dan I will literally not pay you" got me lol

[@GerinoMorn]

I wonder if the printer could make horizontal struts to some fixed hardpoints, that could be attached to the frame. Also I'd prob add a stiff metal brace to the back and bolt that to the wall as well to essentially remove the wobble (just one in the middle will make it reaally stiff, going for 2 in 1/3, 2/3 height is bringing that to probably "desired" tolerances. The braces in third's could be used to have some flat bits mounted stiff and with either some pretty accurate modelling or rather with some extra coding it could make struts when it gets to doing the layer that is on the same level as the fixed flats. Even just prob. hardcoding it into the model and hoping for the best would be decent, even with few mm too high.

[@Engineergaming44]

Engineering? 3d printing?! I think I found a new favorite channel

[@Matt_Duke]

That was awesome, but real talk a core xy with input shaping could work really well

[@deweywolf]

Oh, I am totally going to try this! I extended my ender 3 by 150mm already.

[@stevenfleming1724]

My first time seeing you, you guys are so goofy. It made .e smile the whole video. I love there was no real reason other than just seeing if you could make it work. I love it. I am curious though, how much filament did these take? If more than one roll, how do you change rolls in the middle of a print?

[@nashbellow5430]

for the sword, it looks like you will need to create some kind of supports for more detailed models

[@A_Dilophosaurus]

I love how you thought of this idea and then just decided yes