Construction of the Stays ~ part 2

[@JessieRadfordJocoExplorer]

Can I just say how utterly amazing and wonderful it is to watch someone put all the time and effort into this garment by hand

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you so much Jessie! I love sharing my passion for costumes and I am glad you enjoyed watching the video :)

[@henryw6167]

I only wish I'd seen this video before I started binding my stays, because now I see that I did it the hard way - no wonder it nearly reduced me to tears! Lovely video, thank you :)

[@9CatLives]

😱😱that binding maker is amazing!! I've never seen anything like that before!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

It definitely makes things faster when making bias tape!

[@castoputa]

You use it like a master, it always goes wrong when I try them lol

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

@@castoputa I have found that pinning down the finished side so there is some tension while ironing the bias tape really helps!

[@daniellehammond5964]

@@EnchantedRoseCostumes Do you still use this? I haven't seen it in your latest videos!

[@julianamoraesgomes7821]

I'm using this same pattern right now!!! although its my first sewing project ever and I made so many mistakes i wanna cry LOL i'm struggling SO much with the binding, thanks for the tip on the ladder stitch in the bottom parts!!

[@germanantoniopiedrahita9404]

WOW WOW......how come such an awesome garment designed centuries ago can look SO COOL AND MODERN and be wearable during the day going to the mall or during the night time at night (with the right accessories) as well CONGRATULATIONS

[@fernlintner65]

I am so glad I found this I am extremely visual and truly needed an actual guide not only a picture or description in a book thank you so much for taking the time and effort to do these videos wonderful resource!

[@misswazzra]

The final result is absolutely gorgeous!

[@peregrinemeyer907]

I am enamoured with your stays. I am not a fan of pastels for myself, but every time I see the picture of this over the chemise, I want to order an obscene amount of robin's egg blue. Also, I watched this twice, backing up and taking notes on how you did the tabs and eyelets. Thank you for this journey. Oh, and realizing I am commenting four years later, the Halloween party I am going to is just around the corner. I'm going as a Fairy Godmother, quite glittery, bright, and over the top. Thank you for asking 🌞

[@peregrinemeyer907]

Oops, I saw a typo and edited. It erased the heart you left me. Now, I know better. 😳

[@petowii]

Oh it's so beautiful. I gasped at the last picture of it

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

You made these beautifully! I love the colour combination you chose; very pretty 😍

[@Tbehartoo]

I do not know how you had the patience or endurance to do all that hand sewing but, hat tip! The results are stunning!

[@lauramcguire7970]

Those colours are so dreamy!

[@CaptDisgruntled]

These are very beautiful, and seeing the step-by-step construction is very helpful. I wondered what effect you noticed from the boning in the shoulder straps? I wanted to suggest that when you have been successful in creating lacing holes by use of the awl, it isn't necessary to use a blanket stitch on the holes. Simply overcasting is sufficient to hold the holes open, and they will be further compacted by the stress of lacing. Many period examples show overcast stitches (that is, just poking the needle through one side of the fabric, going through your hole, and poking the needle back through) that look pretty rough to our eye. I'm told that when doing the overcasting, you don't even need to cut and knot your thread--if it's long enough, you can just continue on to stitch the next hole.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you for you comment! I haven't had a chance to really wear them yet, so I personally haven't noticed a difference between boned vs non-boned straps other then the fact that your can't slide them off or closer to your shoulder. Another blogger I'm following who made this set of stays said that she liked feeling of structure that the boned straps gave her.

[@mircaedesmedhurst8152]

I love that big brimmed hat on the bookcase behind you, and your stays look fantastic by the way, you are an inspiration

[@joannamiller9446]

You are a queen for doing this! Its so pretty and took so much time and love to make!

[@besina1563]

This was so helpful - obviously I'm a visual learner - I was stuck in the cutted out process - now I know how to finish , thx a lot ! Nice voice you've got by the way !

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

How did your project turn out? I would love to see what you created :)

[@joniibryant6462]

It came out beautifully! It was totally worth the wait to see your process. Thanks again for posting. I'm looking for forward to seeing your next video.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

+Jonii Bryant I'm glad you enjoyed the video :) I am quiet happy with how they came out.

[@razzmatazz1974]

lovely garment! would love to have the knowledge and skills to make one! it is my dream costume. Congrats for such a nice piece of clothing.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

+razzmatazz1974 Thank you :D The best way to learn is to try it yourself, also learning from other mistakes and triumphs helps! There are so many talented seamstresses out there and gathering ideas and inspiration from them has definitely helped with my research and construction :)

[@deannacumpston9318]

Thank you so much for this video. I am planning on trying to recreate these same stays and I learned a lot from watching this.

[@laurelsinger7166]

The stays turned out great!

[@chareseshinabery]

Wow that turned out so pretty!

[@christinaskinner8282]

They are gorgeous!!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you Christina :)

[@GlitteryDinosRAWRgoogleplus]

this is going to be so helpful when I create my stays

[@karenstclair9420]

Absolutely stunning!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you :)

[@cali3nat]

wow. awesome. love all the handwork

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you Natalie!

[@saltlifegull4091]

Simply amazing! Beautiful work:)

[@louisascottsewing]

Love to watch you work, thank you. I am wondering how the 'bones' don't move up and down. In a Victorian corset they are flossed, but what about 18th century stays? Do they not eventually work their way out the top, or at the top of the tags at the waist.

[@LaDivinaLover]

These are so amazingly helpful and I was the Princesse De Lamballe :P

[@misathrace7037]

These are so pretty!!!!!

[@celticgoddess81]

Great work, might I suggest the next time you are binding a corset's tabs that you use a curved needle? It helps a lot when you are doing those pesky tabs.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you! I did try using a curved needle, but I didn't have the best luck with it. It may have been that my needle was to big so I wasn't able to get the speed that I could with my straight needle.

[@celticgoddess81]

It takes practice with curved needles. It took me several weeks of trying but once you get it down its so much better for those pesky tabs. It does go a little slower... but its still nice to not kill your fingers on. Richard The Thread has the best curved needles I've found.

[@aLadyKatey]

Lovely job, someone recommended your tutorial to me as I was puzzling over from which side to whip stitch the panels together. Love the colors of these stays! How have you found the reed boning to hold up?

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you! I actually didn't end up wearing this pair yet as I was 4.5 pregnant when I finished them and my body has changed a lot since the initial fitting. I did end up making a second pair that was maternity friendly, and the reeds on those have held up great! I definitely want to make another pair in the future but a bit later in the 18th century that is only 1/2 boned and try out zip ties.

[@castoputa]

Magnificent work, thank you for posting these, a massive help :)

[@proudarmymom50]

Beautiful work!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you :)

[@midnightqueen3332]

What resources would you suggest to someone for a Corded corset/stay informational, patterns, etc? I am considering trying to make a corded corset or stay out of Denim. Like heavy blue jean denim not lightweight shirt denim. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[@archangelsaphalon8215]

Awesome. Its beautiful. Thanks for sharing. I'm still deciding if to make it or not its alot of work😕

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you 💗 I've heard great things about Redthreaded stays if you want to buy instead of making a pair!

[@teresacolson6965]

I absolutely love your videos and have found the ones on your stays very helpful i do have a question though what type of thread was used abs how much binding did you use over all? Thank you

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you. I just used a regular sewing thread, as for length I don't know how much I actually used...

[@katmartin7992]

Your stays look absolutely lovely! What size reed did you use? I’m currently in between buying 3/16” for historical accuracy or 1/4” for stability.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

I used 1/4" flat oval reed 💗

[@raeleneblacketer3409]

Very pretty!

[@Traybuff]

Just wondering what happened to the horizontal boning at the front of the stays. I've tried searching on-line for how to do this, but it seems most people skip this part on tutroials or don't explaint very well. One tutroial siad the horizontal bones go behind the verticle boning, so would there be a seprate tube channel create on the inside, but then I guess the boning would not show through to the outside piece then. I'm guessing a gap must be needed when you sew the verticle channels going up to where the horizontal bones should go maybe, because some how i've got to cross bones over eahc other, none of my books explain it properly and the norah one I have as well doens't really give any insturctions. When I saw you had the pattern with the 4 bones going across the front as well as down, I hped it might show me, but you missed them out. Any ideas? thanks from Tracy :)

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

I lost that footage when I was making this video. I added the horizontal bones after the vertical bones were already in place. I did this by hand sewing three 5/8" pieces of twill tape(1 at the top, 1 in the middle, and 1 halfway between them) on the back side of the middle layer before the seam allowance was sewn down on the front piece. Each piece of twill has 2 channels, and the bones curve with the body to achieve a rounded front. Please let me know if that makes sense to you, if not, I will makes sure I get that footage when I make my next pair of stays and post it on my blog.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

In some patterns you can see the horizontal bones on the exterior of the stays, but they are usually half boned and mine are fully boned :)

[@Traybuff]

ok i'm still lost on it though, but you say you have put them in, but I can't see them anywhere on your photos. I don't know if this link will work to a photo, but like this with about 3 or 4 horizontal bones showing across the chest. Really confused how i can sew channels that have overlap with boning. As if I sew one channel straight i won't then be able to get the other bone through horizontally. thank you for your time anyway. Maybe when I come to do it i'll miss out those bones across the chest as I cannot understand without a good tutorial. I've tried asking some musuems if they have any photos they could pass onm but heard nothign back as yet. Thanking you kindly anyway link to photo:- s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d6/c5/78/d6c57895d1abd16398b66fb4af5030c2.jpg

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

The photo you posted is a pair of half boned stays. You are correct, when you get to the part where the bones meet there is a space left open so the bones can cross over/under each other. Take a look at this blog: katafalk.wordpress.com/tag/pair-of-stays/ She has a close up of her stays where the bones meet.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

And here is another link to a machine sewed pair rococoatelier.blogspot.ca/2013/12/speedy-18th-century-stays-tutorial-part_20.html

[@Kittehsmahname101]

Also is the lining absolutely necessary? This is just my opinion, but I would love to see the blush fabric on the inside :) it doesn’t look like you’ve left any raw edges from the seam allowance!

[@simonakhara3963]

Stunning!

[@louiselill1528]

They are beeautiful

[@lexygirl1786]

Did you find after hand sewing for a while that your stitches got kinda big? I get so impatient after an hour and my stitches start getting less cute and tiny.

[@marichin99]

Beautiful!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you Marilyn 💗

[@oliviadesign]

beautiful!

[@brianaschmidt910]

What abput the middle front. I watched very closely and I don't believe that you showed any part of the process for this. If I am wrong please let me know, but if I'm right I would love to see how it attaches to the rest of the stays

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you for your comment! The middle isn't attached to the rest of the stays 🙂 when wearing the stays the middle is slipped behind the lacing and it is held in place by the lacing 😊

[@brianaschmidt910]

@@EnchantedRoseCostumes thank you so much! Your videos inspired me to redesign the Disney women costumes. I appreciate you and the hard work you do! O can't wait to see what you pull off next! I would love to show you the desgins I made on FB if that is ok?

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

@@brianaschmidt910 I would love to see them!

[@Kittehsmahname101]

Can the bias binding be machine sewn or does it have to be hand stitched as you do in the video?

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

It can be done by machine! Redthreaded has just recently posted a blog/video on how to do it!

[@marcellatramonte]

can you please put the link for the types of stitch? thanks!

[@SabladeZ]

I loved watching part 1 and 2. Great work! have a question ... Why did you choose to use the whipstitch when attaching the lining? Was it for strength? Is it what the pattern called for? I would have used a blind stitch... But perhaps it wouldn't be strong enough to hold all the wear and tear?

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you for stopping by, I am glad you enjoyed it :) The pattern I used didn't actually have a clear set of instructions for building the stays, I decided to whip stitch the lining because I found it was quicker to attach it that way then using a blind stitch. When I was looking for building tips I came across a web page called "Before the Automobile" and that is how they were done on her site. Also looking at it historically, they were not as worries about stitches being invisible as we are now a days :)

[@lizardqueen47]

I'm making my own pair and I was wondering how many inches( or half) should the eyelets be in the zig zag pattern?

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Carlee Whitlock it depends on how many eyelets you want. Mine are 1" apart. The top eyelets are even with each other, to start the offset eyelets I measured 1/2" down on one side and 1" down on the other. I continued with the 1" measurement until the bottom ending with the 1/2" and then level eyelets. If that doesn't make sense Google the zen of spiral lacing and a blog should on offset lacing should pop up. 😄 would love to see your stays when you finish them!

[@eveningbane6390]

Is a stay a corset? Like would I wear it under a dress to give shape? Thanks : )

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Evening Bane Yes! Stays and corsets are very similar, but, stays were worn before 1800s and corsets replaced them after. Stays also give the body a different shape then corsets. A lot of people use the names interchangeably, but there is a difference :)

[@catarinapietri1577]

How do you adjust the pattern to your size? I am very busty.

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Catarina Pietri I have found that is simplest thing to do it first find a pattern that is close to your size, then compare the difference between your measurements and the pattern. Let's say there is a 3" difference between your bust measument and the pattern measurement. You would then divide that difference over the amount of seams on the pattern. Let's just say your stays have 6 seams (3 ÷ 6 = .5) you would then divided that measurement by 2 (.5 ÷2=.25) and add that amount to the pattern pieces on both sides of the seam. You would have to true up the lines after and make sure that the pieces still line up properly afterwards. I hope that helps! I am sorry if that doesn't make sense or is worded oddly. It is almost 3am here and my youngest is teething...

[@Rotten_Ralph]

After I watched this the first time... I had to buy a set of bias tape makers

[@TiffanyDesign]

Your videos are amazing, your makes are gorgeous, but the music is driving me slightly nuts. Please change to something less 'its a small world' keep making content though! youtube needs you!

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you for your comment. I have changed my music for my more recent videos, but unfortunately I can't change it more my past videos without taking the videos down.

[@TiffanyDesign]

@@EnchantedRoseCostumes ah so sorry didn't realise this was from 2015!

[@PatDooley50]

I love all the work that you have done on this. I really enjoy your videos, but that music drove me batty

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

Thank you! I've changed the music in my new videos!