Ender 3 S1 - All-Metal Hotend Upgrade

[@EV-wp1fj]

I don't think you used enough boron nitride paste for this. You're going to have terrible heat transfer. You need more boron nitride paste. Pro tip: If you go to the grocery store and buy one of those cake piping sets, you can do a beautiful decorative rose pattern all around the hot-end with the boron nitride paste. Perfect for weddings!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

How do you know when enough is enough? I saw a video by Thomas Sanladerer where he clogged the nozzle with boron nitride, so I tried to avoid that!

[@EV-wp1fj]

@@NathanBuildsRobots You may need to frost the entire Ender 3 with Boron Nitride paste, just to be sure. Then top it with a bride and groom cake topper. Then enter it in a baking contest. ;-)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@EV-wp1fj my sarcasm detector just beeped, but it was really faint. Oh well, better be safe than sorry. I'll start printing out that wedding topper for my 3d printer.

[@tsesarbg.r.9771]

HAHAHAHA

[@earthwormjim]

The side flow of extruded filament is probably from exceeding the melting capacity of your hotend. You're extruding only partially melted material, which is getting bent and twisted inside your extruder. When it comes out, it's free to unbend itself, and probably is solidifying in air, leading to curling and warping in mid air.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

That is a very nice explanation, thank you.

[@WasNiksIsNiksWordtNiks]

Dude, love the attitude. Fast AF cut😂

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I try to cut to the chase! Hence why I edit 6 hrs down to 25 minutes, then pick out every sentence that doesn't add to the story, until I'm left with 6-12 minutes. A lot of 3D printing youtubers take a while ... to ... get .... to ... the ............ ...... point.

[@SchlangeBob]

Actually subscribed after that 😂🤟

[@rsunghun]

I subscribed for ender3 s1 video few days ago and it was not on my notification. Thank you for the video!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, you have to ring the bell too!

[@avejst]

Wow, what an upgrade! You just double the price of the printer!! ;-) And now you have to change the firmware to get higher temp. on the hotend. Interesting design 👍🙂 Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)

[@solstern8647]

I just bought one for printing carbon fiber. How can I adjust the firmware?

[@thetupolevtu-1602]

@@solstern8647 vs studio and download firmware from creality or github. You may need to watch some tutorials on changing it though

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I just realized Slice Engineering sells a Bimetallic Heatbreak that should fit in this printer perfectly. Edit: it does not fit perfectly. It sticks out about 2mm, but I'm OK with that. It would also need to be cut back just like this one if you want it to sit flush. For an easier way to get rid of the PTFE lining, I would keep the old heater block. That should only take ~15 minutes to install compared to the way I did it in this video. Amazon Affiliate Link for Heatbreak: amzn.to/3LfU8hS Note: You will need an Mk8 style nozzle to work with the stock heater block, so if you want to use CHT with this simpler mod, make sure to get an Mk8, not Rep-Rap, nozzle. Slice Engineering only carries the Rep-Rap style.

[@3dprinterfun905]

Hey, great Video, you are really putting a lot of effort in your research around those mods! I just wanted to Note, that you can fit V6 type nozzles into the MK8 heater block, you just have to screw the heatbreak out a bit more. Tried to mount a v6 cht to my ender hotend and it fits perfectly. This might give a benefit due to the longer thread vs the mk8 nozzles, but i havent tested that yet. Have a nice day!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Alright thanks, good to know! I guess you could always break out the hacksaw :)

[@3dprinterfun905]

@@NathanBuildsRobots ofcourse, with a saw, sandpaper and a file you can make anything work!

[@DxApollo]

If I get this heatbreak then you just install and all is good? No firmware changes needed?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@DxApollo Heatbreak and nozzle changes should never require a firmware update to work.

[@3dprinterfun905]

Great Mod and well described, 30mm^3/s is awesome! The curling happens because of the internal stresses in the filament when being pushed too hard. It is not heated thoroughly anymore at too high flowrates, and wants to return to its original shape. The CHT splits it up into 3 parts, so this funky behaviour is the result. I don't know the excact physics behind that, but thats what i have learned so far! Great work, keep it up :)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, now I just need to crank up the print speed! The extruder can definitely keep up. Yeah, there is something going on where more plastic is going through 1 of the holes and pushing it to the side. That would be so cool if you had 3 independant extruders that could steer the plastic using that phenomenon. I think what is going on is there is an unmelted core that is directed into 1 of the holes, so that chamber gets higher pressure and more flow. I don't think it's clogged, because at lower speeds it completely straightens out.

[@3dprinterfun905]

@@NathanBuildsRobots that explanation makes a lot of sense. I think it could be related to the diameter of the heatbreak. It is 2mm and the filament is 1.75mm, so the filament doesn't go straight into the nozzle bit could always be more towards one kf the three holes. That leads to more material in one of the channels, and that comes into play when the filament is almost pushed too fast. One of the channels has slightly more filament to melt, and therefore has this unmolten core as you mentioned. That leads to more pressure in one channel and you get this effect. Maybe thus would decrease if we use 2.85mm filament as the nozzle could be the same, but the filament has a bigger surface area. Or, one could get one of those 3 in 1 nozzles and try to push in all 3 Inputs at the same time, imagine the througput, maybe with a 2mm nozzle or so! This is all just theory carfting, but i think its quite interesting! Have fun pushing this hotend!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@3dprinterfun905 yeah it's an inherently unstable configuration. You are pushing an icicle shaped unmelted filament tip into a cone shaped core. I think having a bi-metallic heatbreak would help a lot, since it would allow more heat transfer before it hits the split.

[@3dprinterfun905]

@@NathanBuildsRobots i have a bi-metallic heatbreak, and also tried the cht on a volcano with a special spacer. That inreased the flowrate a bit! I think adding even more meltzone will help too.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@3dprinterfun905 I just got a mosquito magnum hotend. Will he bolting this onto the S1 and seeing how it effects flow rates 🔥

[@Zane65205]

Sweet video. I do have the S1 and I love the mod. Great job on the consistent uploads my dude!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

1 more coming tomorrow! It will be spooky...

[@smartintech2]

Good job. And I had the same issue using your suggested blower fan at too high speeds: it blew the filament right off the nozzle ;) So maybe it's not side shooting due to fast extrusion, but more a blowing to the opposite side of the fanduct.

[@gemzentaurus5537]

Your fan + fan duct upgrade is producing increased airflow...like a turbo jet engine. The airflow coming out of the vent is too strong, and causing the filament to be blown away. Lower the fan speed and run another extrusion test. Let us know if it makes a difference.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I did these tests with the fan off. The same thing showed up in my other tests too, some without the fan installed at all

[@ptalbany]

Not to pop your bubble but you can just buy the all metal end for around $22 I did it with my S1 + and from the box it printed perfect no stirring nothing, then I added the all metal end and had to do some tweaking on retraction and Bam was good to go But as always you offer a way to upgrade and for that I thank you and till your next post be well and many thanks

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I broke one of the all-metal hotend in my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I think it's still worth getting the CHT nozzle of you want faster print speeds. The simplest solution is to get the Creality all metal hotend

[@ricardoserrano-smith5571]

That drill hack is brilliant

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Mini lathe!

[@justinmoritz6543]

Cool mod! but i think you're using the knipex pliers wrench backwards. The torque is meant to be applied to the movable handle instead of the fixed handle. This provides a self tightening effect rather than actively working agaisnt your grip. Again, awesome video, really entertaining!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

On applications that require more torque I have to stop and think about which direction to use them, but in most cases I counter my stupidity with grip strength.

[@justinmoritz6543]

@@NathanBuildsRobots definitely! Tightening a nozzle doesn’t take very many ugga duggas 😆

[@bepstein111]

Check out CNC Kitchen for a great explanation about the cause of the side pulling at high flow rates. basically its internal stresses from the filament not being fully melted

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think I saw his video on the subject. In my most recent video I tried to explain with diagrams what is going on, with 1 of the channels getting a higher or lower flow rate due to the filament actually entering into it.

[@Island.dweller]

I may quietly regret not getting that parts list. Ali shipping is "different" lately. I think you "voluntold" me about extending 1 volume to 400x400 and keeping one stock size Lol. Keep it going

[@starlexDHB3dprinterhotend]

Thanks for sharing. We all make mistakes, it easier to laugh from others with sarcasm than recognise our own, great job.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Great idea, dude!

[@jamesso6811]

I'm guessing you could use the stock heat break from the s1 pro instead of cutting down the slice one correct?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes

[@chadconley9641]

One of the few times I actually took a min to read the comments. Like a neutered dog, you just don't get it. Er'one's all like, "I wouldn't do that!" - "You're crazy for cutting up that printer." - "Blah... blah... blah....". It's like you guys don't get what the channels for. Could you imaging someone going to a hot rodding channel and saying, "Man, I can't believe you modified that stock 1972 Chevy C-10. You're crazy." Eh... then what were they going to do. One thing is for sure. We don't need yet another review of a stock E3S1. There's already about 50 out there.

[@henrimcgowan5589]

The effect you are witnessing when extruding the filament I believe is called die swell.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think die swell is when the filament shrinks in length and increases in diameter. The curving issue is new to me, I think it has to do with the CHT 3-holed geometry.

[@TheMidnightSmith]

@@NathanBuildsRobots the poster is right, it's die swell. Check out CNC kitchen video on this

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@TheMidnightSmith kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIindqWgYtV4Z8U 10:30 mark is where Stefan brings up die swell. Edit: "Blah blah blah it's not just die swell"

[@TheMidnightSmith]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Jesus dude what a pendantic response. I was in agreement with the OP that it's die swell and gave an example to check out. By no means did I say I'm an expert, but offered a solution when you had none, you clearly asked what people thought it might be. The CNC kitchen video explained it way better than I could, hence I said to check it out. The sheer "I'm better than you" attitude you came back with is unnecessary.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@TheMidnightSmith Your right, I am being a bit much. I think there is something going on beyond die swell, and I think I have a good explanation. I may make a video about it. But either way I apologise, that was something I should not have pressed "send" on.

[@fushi1242]

Any plans to make a video on upgrading the S1 firmware to support higher temps? Iv got my high temp hot end but am still struggling to sort out the software.

[@davidlondon3111]

Nice guide - any idea how much power the controller board can provide and what that hot end will consume? I’m just a bit concerned that it might do some damage to the printer by upsizing the hot end

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You can always install an upgraded nozzle and keep the same old hotend/heater cartridge. That way you will minimize issues. To do a proper analysis you would need to look at the MOSFET's datasheet and consider the PWM frequency, current, and voltage. Generally people say the safe limit is about 50W, or 2 A. I feel comfortable as long as I keep it under 72W or 3A. I have ran up to 150W, or about 6A with no failures.

[@peerrucke2599]

why would you put thermal paste on the heatbreak? I understand it can help for the nozzle and the heating element...but for the heatbreak? Why? As i understand the working method of that part, it wouldnt be wanted to increase the conductivity to this part. If anything at all, insulate it/put a poor-conductive compound on the threading. Or maybe im getting something wrong. I mean, isnt that what the PTFE tube was originally for? making it hard for the heat to travel upwards? Youll make it even harder now to hold the high temps in the nozzle, because the heat gets literall sucked out of the block and cooled away in the heatsink. just saying.

[@jeremyplumb800]

youre absolutely right, we dont want any increased heattransfer between the heatblock and the heatbreak. This guy only knows to a certain extend what hes actually doing. I also dont appriciate the way he works, a little bit dirty and sloppy.

[@aps3000miki]

Good video, great mod. I trust people who know how to use a Knipex.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Someone correctly pointed out that I used one of the wrenches backwards. 😯 I guess you can't trust me!

[@aps3000miki]

@@NathanBuildsRobots you have one, that counts. You still can learn. Those things still work well even the wrong way around.

[@applemonkey_1874]

its curling like that at higher speeds because its cooling faster on one side.if u lower the fan speed or eliminate the draft is should work more gooder

[@ChrisBurnes]

Was the cooling fan on during the 'side shooting'? I had that issue with my CR10 at higher extrusion speeds, until I installed a 'fang style' blower that seemed to work to stabilize the extra fast/hot extrusion.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The cooling fan was off. I talked to bondtech and they said that happens when you are near the limit of volumetric flow rate. I have some theories on exactly why it happens, and some workarounds for it, but its only an issue at 30+ mm^3/s so its not that big of a deal

[@DxApollo]

What’s the max temp after an all metal hot end upgrade? 260? Is that locked by firmware? Lots of info going around on the ender 3 s1 Facebook page but it’s conflicting and convoluted. I have purchased the hot end and nozzle you have suggested. Hoping ur new video drops soon before I do it. I have never modded a 3d printer before.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Max temp is firmware limited to 260. To go higher you need to upgrade to a high temperature thermistor and update the firmware to work with it

[@007craft]

Why do this over buying the official metal hot end? You can get the official metal hotend for $85ish, slap it on and be done with it. Here I need to buy 4 separate tiny components, which will probably run me $40+ish by thew time I get them shipped, then spend several hours cutting, sanding, soldering, pasting, etc. Is spending all that time really worth it to save $40-$50? Or is thi smod giving you a faster flow over the official hot end?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Well, it didn't exist yet, for one. Kinda peeved at creality for releasing g these so close together and nerfing the normal S1. The CHT nozzle will give increased print speed, so it's a worthy upgrade even if you go with the pro hotend. And if you just replace the heatbreak it's a $10-30 upgrade vs $75, so its still a good way to save some $.

[@Nisagi]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Hey, Nathan. Does the original heatbreak and thermistor enough for the copper titanium tube or should i better take the kit, which includes the whole hotend? There is a possibility to order just the tube, which is 10$.

[@davidandrzejewski1409]

I have an S1 with the copper (or whatever) heat break and a CHT nozzle. Can I use the same heat break, nozzle, heater and thermistor in the slice heat block?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Probably could use the slice copperhead, but if the stick setup is working I wouldn’t worry too much about the hotend

[@Hero1117a]

Creality has new hot ends

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Why the f didn't they include the S1 Pro features on the plain S1 is beyond me... Oh wait, its money.

[@chadconley9641]

@Nathan Builds Robots - [Applying thermal paste] "Ahhh SKEET SKEET!"

[@romancherfan9962]

Hey I bought the sq plus because I wanted a larger print area. Is it completely plausible to say I could upgrade the plus to being as good as the pro with mods?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, you can make it better than the pro with some simple changes.

[@powbud]

Any particular reason why cut it to match length? Could it not just be 3mm longer, or is that a problem ?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Its no problem, you just have to extend the CR- touch down about 3mm. I've done that before, using slightly longer bolts and 4 m3 washers stacked under the cr touch.

[@powbud]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I learned the hard way that with out moving the cr-touch (did not think of that) the nozzle will dig into your bed. But I ended up cutting the plastic tip that is sticking out. And that turned out good :)

[@gigifrana940]

I have a better idea without to much modifications. Just replicate that small ptfe tube ( with a lathe)from coper 😉 and use a quality nozzle.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

If the PTFE tube was replaced with copper of the same size, the heat break would no longer work. There needs to be a section with very low thermal conductivity to keep heat from the melt-zone from going up into the upper parts and melting the plastic in the extruder, causing jams.

[@CommanDOH-JKU]

The all-metal hot end. from Creality is $10. I just went with that...

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

This was before they came out with their hotend upgrade kit.

[@CommanDOH-JKU]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Ahh, that would make a difference...

[@DxApollo]

There is a sprite pro being released with an all metal hot end

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think spending another $120 for an extruder just to get a $5 metal piece installed isn't the best idea. Now, I'd be interested if it also has at least 4 of the 8 items below: - Bimetalic Heatbreak - 500C Thermocouple - 60w Heater cartridge - Copper heater block - Metal extruder gears - Larger stepper motor - Upgraded Nozzle - Upgraded part cooling fan

[@grumpycat_1]

It looks like the all metal hotend (from the S1 Pro) will be available as an upgrade to the S1. Its ~$110 extra or about the same cost as a S1 Pro (which includes the all metal hotend) total shipped at this time ... and you dont have to wait weeks/month for it to ship from china (and pay $80) As of today an S1 Pro is about ~$579 delivered from the creality store (and takes 1-2weeks to ship from china) An S1 from Amazon is $429 delivered ... the All metal Hotend is available as a pre-order for ~$110 delivered according to the Creality store ... So for ~$530 total you have a totally usable printer delivered in 3-5 days from amazon and can pre-order the all metal hotend from creality and be printing until it arrives ... also when it does arrives you have a spare PTFE lined hotend to mod. At least this is what it looks like... I wonder if you can just upgrade the firmware on the S1 to the S1 Pro's firmware as the only difference I can find between the two Printers is the Allmetal hotend that they claim can run 300°C.. I went ahead and just bought an S1... If/when I need the all metal hotend I will just buy one from Creality if the above turns out to be accurate... If not then your mod will likely be my plan... thanks for "NGAF" and doing the mods so I dont have to ruin mine :-)

[@x_jaydn]

Do CHT nozzles have any issues with retraction due to the tri-split pathway of the filament?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I did not notice any decrease in retraction performance. If anything, the retractions looked slightly better on the CHT nozzle, but it's so close I wouldn't really say its better one way or the other.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Considering heatbrakes are made from such metals as titanium as they have a lower thermal signature, isnt adding boron paste pissing against the wind?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You bring up a good point. Titanium is 64x more conductive than PTFE and 1/24th as conductive as copper so it's kind of in a middle ground. I want to do an episode on heat transfer analysis, doing some lumped mass model analysis on the common hotend setups (standard, volcano, Rapido, CHT) so we have an easy way to see where the bottlenecks in thermal conductivity are. A bi-metallic heatbreak with a copper lower segment will definitely give the best results. I just looked it up and saw that Slice Engineering has a heatbreak that would probably work for this printer, since it has a 6mm shank. I'm going to pick one of those up and try it out: amzn.to/3LfU8hS

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@NathanBuildsRobots That would be a video I would love to watch, having some real conclusional data would be awesome!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think what I will find is that the biggest bottleneck to heat transfer is the interface between the plastic and the hotend, which will be difficult to model but I'm going to try.

[@waynefilkins8394]

Is your print cooling fan hanging down low on the left side? I ordered a brand new s1 and the fan in the front hangs down lower on the left than on the right. It looks like it's bent or something. I don't understand how this happens with a new printer. Everything I order has something wrong with it so I go new to try to mitigate potential problems and I get this. It is just barely not touching the print and at times it looks like it might actually be touching it. Worst part is these things are so much trouble to assemble, disassemble, and rebox, it would be hard asf to return unless they let me just exchange that one part.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, I would just Uninstaller the stock part cooling fan and print out the one i designed. I have a video on it. The stock part cooling fan is crap. www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

[@humblebeastkey4069]

could i just put the microswiss all metal hotend on

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

No, the new Sprite extruder has a built-in heatsink and the heatbreak attaches directly to it. There is an easier solution that I pinned in my comments though - just get the heatbreak from Slice that is already the correct size and reuse the old heater block. That is much simpler and might even perform better.

[@avejst]

Yep, that would work too :-)

[@bigwavedave1562]

@@NathanBuildsRobots What size/option, Is standard G2 the correct size and do you need a different nozzle too?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@bigwavedave1562 yes standard G2 should work. I ordered one to try out & verify, but the dimensions I've seen tell me it should work. The nozzle compatibility depends on the heater block you are using. The g2 hotend will fit into the extruder, there are 2 stackups if consider: Easy option (no soldering or rewiring required): Stock extruder Copperhead heatbreak (G2 Standard fit) Stock heater block Stock nozzle, or Mk8 CHT Hard option (what I did) Stock extruder Copperhead heatbreak (G2 Standard fit) Copperhead heater block Rep-rap style nozzle, AKA v6 style nozzle Both nozzle types are m6 thread, but one is 1 mm longer

[@bigwavedave1562]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you so much for the detailed response! I think the easy option is where I will head and good to know that I can use the existing nozzles with that heatbreak.

[@MKS_Design]

Hi Nathan, just got my ender 3 s1, what if you used a capricorn tube instead of the ptfe piece that you see inside, wouldn't that be a good enought solution?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Capricorn only buys you a couple degrees C, so it would still rule out higher temp filaments like nylon and ABS. Also the tube is not a standard size, I think it is a smaller diameter tube, maybe 1.9 ID 3.2 OD.

[@w116tjb]

What is the total length of the stock heatbreak on the Ender 3 S1?

[@steffrevoltoso7952]

I need to modify the Firmware?

[@greendsnow]

I might try it when the guarantee is no more valid...

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

Is this the case for S1 and S1 pro as well? I thought S1 pro had an all metal hotend…

[@ZaxMan3D]

Pro is all metal.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, you wouldn't need the heatbreak upgrade on the pro. But it would still benefit from adding the CHT nozzle.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Personally, I haven't tried the CHT nozzle, only the ones from 3dsolex, from which Bondtech has licensed the CHT. Those work well, though ;)

[@jvianneyjr]

Whats the diference between Spriter struder in S1 and Sprite Struder PRO?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Effectively it's just a slightly higher wattage heater cartridge, higher temperature thermistor, and an all-metal heatbreak

[@jvianneyjr]

@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you!

[@Github_tech_with_ty]

What size nozzle

[@Knuddel00]

Hello, does anyone know how big the replacement nozzle is? 0.4 or 2.0 ❓🤔

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

the standard nozzle is 0.4mm

[@Knuddel00]

Thank you for your quick feedback. 🙂👍🏼 Okey, that means the built-in nozzle and the replacement nozzle are both 0.4 mm. I just subscribed to your channel. Very interesting videos. I especially like your modified cooling. I would also like to test it. Can I get the STL file ❓😉

[@jvianneyjr]

After I chage that hotend how can I use 300ºC ?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You need to update the firmware. You might be able to just flash the S1 Pro firmware onto your machine, but I haven't tried this.

[@fredblogs]

I’m new to printing but I was not Impressed by either of your boats.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Those prints were printed at higher speeds, quality was not a priority. Matte grey filament and extreme close-ups will make it easier to see flaws in the print. I could have printed in glossy black or red, but then you wouldn't see the flaws. I'm not trying to get an award for nicest quality prints here, just trying to see the characteristics of the printer at high speeds.

[@fredblogs]

@@NathanBuildsRobots . Fair enough. Please excuse me, I’m learning.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Holy thermal paste

[@johnvira1529]

Do you have an updated parts list for slice parts that fit?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, I'm going to do another video. I learned a lot doing these mods and want to show the easy way to do it I'd just get this: amzn.to/3gy4tYz Sick with the stock heater block And get a MK8 CHT nozzle.

[@johnvira1529]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks again... What bed sheet are you using?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@johnvira1529 I'm using this one in 235x235 size amzn.to/3GFz7JS You can get it with our without a smooth PEI sticker, but I don't like those. You will get a much another surface finish on the bottom side, which can look cool, but PETG will destroy it Ive never had a textured PEI bed get damaged and they seem to hold on to parts just as well.

[@johnvira1529]

@@NathanBuildsRobots got the bed, works great with pla, but petg is not sticking any suggestions?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@johnvira1529 I have not tried PETG with it yet, though I used a similar PEI bed from PRUSA and printed tons of PETG on it. I would go with the PusaSlicer "Prusament PETG" filament preset, but bump the bed temp up 5 degrees. I'd add the 5 degrees since this type of bed doesn't conduct heat through it as well as the prusa bed, so you'll probably get a few degrees lower surface temperature. If you don't use PrusaSlicer I can look up the bed temp for you.

[@bepstein111]

holy crap thats a lot of thermal paste. other than that, nice video lmao

[@Torskel]

So, i can't change hotend without cutting wires and shit? guess I'll buy pro version sprite

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You can change nozzles to a CHT and put in an all metal heatbreak in, without cutting wires. You'd just keep the old heater block, thermistor, and heater cartridge. I still think you'd get nearly double the print speed and it would be an easier install.

[@Torskel]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I should've bought Pro version :D

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@Torskel yeah I was annoyed that the pro version came out 1 month after I made this video with some really common sense upgrades. Mine is basically a pro now. The pro still has below average part cooling, so some upgrading is inevitable IMO

[@Torskel]

@@NathanBuildsRobots There's a drop-in hotend with wires made for the S1 on Ali express

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@Torskel I'll look that one up

[@andrewholdaway813]

Well the second print was better, but still terrible.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The print quality is there, I just needed to tune it a little more than was done in this video. The focus on this episode was more on volumetric flow rate.

[@alemeza1210]

Lol. You destroyed that printer. I look horrible and on top of that it prints horrible

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Destroying printers is kind of my thing. How you found some entertainment value in it 😀

[@motelgrim]

To much paste,,! Thin layers.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

But isn't more better?

[@putin-6969]

нихрена не понятно, но очень интересно

[@spcverd6654]

Esta podria ser la solucion....kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGqZiKR-rLljppo.....Disfrutenlo..👀👀👀👀..

[@Gunner0352]

Never ever ever do this!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

What was I not supposed to do?

[@Gunner0352]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I applaud your efforts for sure don't get me wrong. I would not modify the hardware because a manufacture made a poor decision by continuously using a ptfe liner. It took them about a week after the original release to change it and make the all metal version. I am not aware if it Is is just a change in dimension and not material or if it is also a proper material change. Steel to titanium for example. Nonetheless this is par for the course for Creality as they have come out with well over a dozen printers over the last 2 years instead of putting forth the vast majority of their development in to putting out 1 or 2 extremely high quality machines at cost they are trying to keep the budget low while continuously changing. If they converted these to upgrade kits instead of complete new printers they would likely get more sales. This is a similar model to prusa which has been wildly successful.