ENDER 5 S1 - SILENT FAN UPGRADE and MODDER BOARD V2

[@airingcupboard]

Nice. For the standard ender 5 I did something similar, but the 60x60x25 - took the PSU cover off and then used brass stand offs to list the lid up to make space. I also replaced the 4010 fan and reversed the direction to pull cool air in and expel it with the other one. The PSU fan is temperature controlled so it only comes on sometimes. The stand offs reduce the resonance as well. It was a bit of a mistake, but worked.

[@ShaggyShaggums]

You made a great board. I got a new 24v fan and it works great. I'm happy to know I have a bigger window for upgrades down the road. I'm also happy to report that both Wathai 5015 Blower Fan and WINSINN 5015 Blower 50mmx15mm 2PIN Fans with the fan mod fit in the Spriteburner v2. I almost forgot, you have to flip the positive and negative pins on the fan in order to make it work with the Mod Board since negative and positive are reversed on the board, otherwise the fan won't spin.

[@loganklose1007]

Hey Nathan I love your videos, you inspired me to get into 3d printing and tinkering with the printer itself. I have a ender 3 s1, running klipper on a RaspberryPi and soon to add a breakout board when it arrives! Keep on making the great stuff and I will try to follow in your footsteps to make these cool mods! Ps: My project next year is to add a Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder once I figure out how to make it work with a Sprite extruder haha.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Awesome! Good luck with the carrot feeder, I'm sure it can be done!

[@Rolohaun]

Great work as always! Yay Klipper!!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Should be getting the Sonic Pad tomorrow... I heard the new firmware for it was bricking people's sonic pads. Wish they would just open source it and let the community figure out the software configuration.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

Great video, I really like your approach.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I changed the fans in my power supplies on my Ender 5 Plus machines and it is so so quiet, I have my printers in my workshop and before I got the 5+ printers I had Ender 3's in there and didnt bother changing the fans as they were loud but not annoying but the 5+ printers are in another league, I could hear them outside the workshop thats how loud they were!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, Creality's new PSUs have some real garbage fans on them. Fortunately there is plenty of space to fit a big low-profile fan in there.

[@djispro4272]

Hey Nathan, I just wanted to let you know that the fan grill on the power supply fan is probably making the bulk of the noise. I have a similar power supply, I replaced the fan inside it to a 92mm one with a 3D printed cover that had no fan grill, and then I took the old power supply fan and used it to cool the mainboard (on my old printer) - without the weird fan grill - and it sounded much quieter. So just removing the fan grill off the power supply cover might mitigate most of the noise.

[@jamesocker5235]

Might have glass beads put on resistor as that was old way to stand it off board, love the board will be getting one, the phone connectors when you squeeze them it’s called insulation displacement

[@ljuboslavboskic7961]

Great video! Are you planning to make a specific board for the Ender 5 S1?

[@tophatvideosinc.5858]

adding the resistor on the board permanently and allowing it to be toggled on or bypass using a micro switch so users don't have to risk destroying the board by soldering it without experience or proper tools might be something to try on the next version of the board. It is nice that you gave the solder points some space from the rest of the circuit, but don't underestimate the human capacity to catastrophically fuck shit up

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

True. I want to build a buck converter into the next version. If someone is not capable of soldering it themselves, hopefully they can find someone who can, or use it as a learning opportunity. If it's too daunting I would just recommend people to not install it and stick to 24V fans.

[@wotter814]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I have ordered the ender 5 s1. The PSU fan seems very anoying, so it is a 24v fan? How did you convert it to a 12v noctua fan?

[@kristian6087]

You could do like a toolhead board for the Ender 3 that also works with Micro swiss direct drive as i have one installed with an cable out board down close to the mainboard so you could tiddy it up a bit more and use a single cable im unsure if its possible but just an idea.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

So many ideas, so little time! Not sure I get the idea of a toolhead board. There is a way to install the modder board in the base of the machine, then run standard cables out to the hotend. But I like taking advantage of the 24-pin connector. Its pretty nice!

[@gelukken5246]

Perhaps you can mount the resistor on the other side of the board, so when it heats up it doesn't damage your plastic connectors. It seems you have room to do so...

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

That is an interesting idea!

[@kazolar]

If you do a full klipper install (not with the sonic pad) with a Pi or equivalent, you can add canbus and use a canbus toolboard. I have a canbus toolboard on my voron, and I klipirized my older bed slinger, and put a canbus toolboard on it too. Now just need 4 wires going to the toolboard -- not 24 or however many the ribbon cable has. I've migrated my big 4 headed printer to canbus as well, a huge reduction in amount of wires it uses.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I would like to try Canbus eventually. It's nice to have less wires but you need more microcontrollers and stuff. Plus, doesn't it rule out anything besides klipper?

[@kazolar]

@@NathanBuildsRobots my big 4 headed printer runs duet. All expansion on duet3 is done via canbus

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@kazolar now that is nice! Any pics or videos?

[@eskanderx1027]

Great success! - Boяат👨🏻

[@hex1795]

Would you ever consider doing a full tutorial to add the board, fans and psu fans to the ender 5 s1v

[@Hagis2k]

Really love your channel I am about to buy the Ender 5 S1 shortly your channel is full of useful information thanks for all your time and effort, but if you ever make another revision there are small cheap plug in models of like 7812 that are switch mode power supplies. Then you can go for more powerhungry fans too :)

[@unclenicnac1035]

thats basically a good idea but you have a around 2W heater with this module next to the stepper motor in an Ender 5 S1 so if you use the 7812 you need an additional heatsink for it

[@3dprinterguy]

Great video as always, I need to put jokes in my videos 🤣

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I always told jokes in my videos but I don't think people realized I was joking until my 20th one lol

[@3dprinterguy]

@@NathanBuildsRobots you know exactly what to joke about too lol 😂

[@PanchoLUL]

do you have a comparison video before you had put the fans on?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

in my original unboxing I had some audio of the fans, but no real measurement.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Rather than add resistors you should have used a potentiometer or installed a thermister controlled fan control board.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

That would be nice. Nice thing about resistors is they are cheap and almost never fail. Not the best solution, but certainly one of the easiest.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

Mac OS doesn't recognize internal code starting with "discord." WTF? Actually, it's Safari that doesn't recognize something

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Mac OS is a pita sometimes.

[@QciapMr]

Hey Nathan, nice upgrade :) Do you have a photo that shows how far from the frame the fan is at maximum deflection of the Y axis ?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think it’s 1-2cm, plenty of cleaance

[@ericc8895]

What do you think of this printer? I have the ender 3 V2 with tons of upgrades and I was thinking of adding this printer next

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I don't think you *need* it, a it doesn't offer anything above what a modded ender 3 v2 offers, but it is an interesting form factor and can go slightly faster with better components in the stock configuration, so your call!

[@ericc8895]

@Nathan Builds Robots I agree with you so I ended up ordering the Bambu Lab X1C last week

[@JaCKoP619]

bro, what did you do with the PWM signal pin for the power supply fan? the documentation states that it needs 5v and might break if it's overstepped

[@axelmg89]

Hey Nathan, met you at ERRF. Couldn’t agree more with you about creality machines basically being tinker grade. Just wanted to float an idea, what are thoughts on making a similar breakout board to work with tool changers like the hermit crab or mutant?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Could be interesting. I will have to look into those products in more detail. Would it be too add sprite compatibility to those systems? Or just make them more moddable in general?

[@axelmg89]

@@NathanBuildsRobots a bit of both I’d say. I’m going from a Sprite to the hermit crab right now. Ideally I’d just like to have one of tool plates taken but by the Sprite. IMHO the hermit crab would be better if it used a flat ribbon cable and if the wiring terminals were in a different spot. During assembly of the hermit crab you have to remove and reinstall the PCBs anyways, I’d imagine if someone were crafty enough they could design a better PCB.

[@JackDoesGameStuff]

My noctua hotend fan isn’t working and I have made sure the resistor is soldered correct and help would be appreciated

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Join us on Discord: discord.gg/pZW7femQaJ First thing I would check si the correct polarity for the noctua fan wires as well as where they are attached to the board. The backside of the board has +/- markings to tell which pin is which polarity, and the noctua fan documentation says which color wire is which polarity. Just remember that the + is red on one model and yellow on another. look up the noctua fan pinout for 3 or 4 pin fans depending on which you have

[@JackDoesGameStuff]

@@NathanBuildsRobots So I am using the omni join adapter that came with the fan. could that be causing the problem

[@grathado28]

This would be so cool if cealities direct driving extruder wasn't soso

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

How so? I have printed over 75 mm^3/s with it. Not many extruders can keep up with that.

[@IanDDalton]

Great video as usual, can we purchase the modder board internationally yet?, or is it still restricted to the US?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

International is ready. Just shipped the first international packages yesterday. Hopefully they don't have a rough time in customs!

[@IanDDalton]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Excellent, just ordered one, looking forward to trying it out :)

[@Knockelhead]

And got a update already?:)

[@ThantiK]

@1:00...wth would you use a resistor instead of an LDO? They cost basically nothing, are a single T0-220 package, aren't gonna get hot, and can do like...2-3A... Look up the L7812 - they have a wide voltage input, 12v output, with very few components (practically none), and can do 2A easy. Without being a fire hazard...

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Do those have short circuit protection built-in? I can add them in the next revision, but I think they burn off the power, but if they are soldered to the board it will have a lot more dissapative power. Would also need to probably use a capacitor too?

[@FruitSamuraG]

I have this board on my klippered ender 3 s1. I plugged in a 24v 5015 fan to either the 24v slots and it doesn't run. I splice the fan into the JST creality wire and it works. is there a code that I have to input into the printer configuration file to make those fan works ok those slot?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I would check the fan polarity. There are + and - leads on the back of the board. Lots of fans and cables have the red and black wires switched, since there is no standardized polarity. Can you join the discord and ask there? It helps to be able to see pictures of the setup.

[@christrimble7936]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I am having the same kind of issue and I am using sonic pad, I plugged the original heater fan into the side spot instead of the top with the JST and it worked there so I am thinking I have to go into the config file to change the pin location but I am trying to figure out what the other would be named.

[@aaronw1375]

Hey Nathan, I saw that Noctua has a 24V 120mm and 140mm fan available. It may be a better solution for the PSU. They're both PWM as stock.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Those are much louder fans. They would work OK if using a little PWM module to slow them down

[@aaronw1375]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks! I didn't realize that. The slower 24V Noctua NF-F12 (2000RPM) is listed as 29dB whereas the 12V NF-F12 (1500RPM) is 24dB.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@aaronw1375 29 db is still pretty quiet, but 24 is barely audible

[@unclenicnac1035]

wouldn't it be better a to use a LM2574 or a regulated (for example DEBO DCDC DOWN 4) instead of a resistor for the 24 to 12v pin? greetz from austria

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Probably would make more sense, but resistors are super simple, cheap, and virtually failure proof for low current draw applications.

[@tommynguyen8620]

Is there any way to set up the resistor to drop voltage for the part cooling fans as well, to allow for a 12V part cooling fan to be used?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You can, but generally part cooling fans are higher powered, which means you end up dumping more heat into the resistor. I don’t like using resistive limiting for anything over 100mA

[@bigbaderek1978]

I didn’t get any of the solderless wire connectors with my board😢

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Sorry man, I changed those to an add-on. If you are in the states send me an email and I can send you some

[@bigbaderek1978]

@@NathanBuildsRobots thank appreciate the offer..i bought all new fans last night though..thanks for the speed too..was not expecting to get it already

[@Pugwash.]

Does the thicker hotend fan reduce your y-axis at all or is that right at the bar at the front?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

There is clearance for it

[@Soravia]

You gonna make the build plate bigger? Is it possible?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think it is doable. Will be revisiting this printer in a bit. Got some more printers to check out right now.

[@Ibokubok]

Just bought the modder board from your site since the stock fan decided it was going to lose 3 fins ;) didn't do anything to it, just heard it vibrating really bad after a long 2 day print. Question for you if the modder board I bought does it have the limiter already soldered on ?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I leave it off in case someone decides to plug in a fan that draws too much current as it could melt some things. The idea is that if you solder it in yourself, you’ll prove enough electrical knowledge to know how to not mess it up. It’s really only meant for noctua fans or similar low power fans.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

However I do include a 220 on 3 way resistor in the box, so if you have access to soldering equipment it’s easy to install

[@Ibokubok]

@@NathanBuildsRobots perfect thanks

[@ShaggyShaggums]

Hi Nathan, I just received Modder Board v2. My question is I have the Wathai 5015 Blower Fan 12V, I already modded it to make it fit in the Spriteburner too. But, Did I buy the wrong voltage 5015 fan, should it been the 5v instead of the 12v? Still confused about the resistor part, Thank you in advance. Chris

[@ShaggyShaggums]

I figured it out. I need a 24v fan just like the original.

[@thomase907]

Nathan, you say in this video the the E5S1 is more for modding, and that its not like some other printers where they are just great out of the box.. I am curious, what are these "great out of the box" printers?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Lots depending on price range.

[@thomase907]

@@NathanBuildsRobots 500 to 700?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@thomase907 I would get this or the P1P. P1P is better in the sense that it works with no fussing around, and is faster. Easier to put together and start using, very little tweaking/tuning required on your end to get the most out of it. Downside is the Bambu Cloud stuff and lack of DIY serviceability is not my cup of tea. I like the Ender 5 S1 printer because it’s more fun to work on. You have to set aside $100-$200 to spend on upgrades to tailor it to your liking. It’s much more of a project than the P1P, but not as much of a project as a Voron kit build. It’s a worse design by almost any metric. It I have a lot of fun with mine.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

If I were going to start my own print farm, another option would be to get 2-3 artillery sidewinders. Great printers, easy to assemble, massive build volume, decently fast, Super cheap.

[@thomase907]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Okay so I did a deep dive on the P1P last night and it ended with an order completed for it haha this machine looks amazing man, its exactly what i've been looking for. Thank you for your help and suggestion!

[@AlexAlex-bh8fi]

Bro can i upgrade the heat break in ender-5 s1 plz reply i need this upgrade

[@cioccioyoyo]

just received my V2 all the lower connectors, those that mount the original creality fans work the whole upper row does not seem to work, plugging fans in the 2 Pfan connectors and one in the HF1 do not spin any idea? i'm using standard 24c 4010 and 5015 fan am i doing something wrong? Am I forgetting to do something?

[@davidhaney1394]

You really shouldnt user a resistor to halve the voltage . Its just asking for trouble . A VR would have been a much better solution .

[@ZaxMan3D]

What is that latched 24 pin connecter called? and where can I get one? :D

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I had to order mine direct through a manufacturer, took me months to track down.

[@ZaxMan3D]

@@NathanBuildsRobots sycks for me i guess :D

[@ZaxMan3D]

Hey @@NathanBuildsRobots Since you have a source for that connector I got an idea I would like to run by you if you have 5 min at some point. it should be very simple but I don't have the skills to draw up pcb's. We share a few discord channels so I should be easy to find :)

[@ADEADFISH117]

Hey nathan ordered the v1 board from your website like 2 months ago will it still come in eventually?

[@ADEADFISH117]

All I have is the PayPal invoice I'd hope this helps. I rZAgWYZO2O9dVRyCavpVJc2zJ

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Hi Isaac, I sent you an email with your tracking number. It should be arriving today. The pre-orders were all shipped this week shortly after I received them on Monday. Any future orders will ship out in 1-2 business days.

[@ADEADFISH117]

@Nathan Builds Robots amazing than you nathan! Can't wait to get modding !

[@edwindiaz3932]

Are all Part Cooling Fans 24v?

[@billkaroly]

Does the ribbon cable face forward or back on the S1 Pro?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Up and back

[@JA-fn7le]

So the 2 boards I ordered will be like this and will work for both the E5 S1 and the E3 S1 Pro?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Ender 3 S1 should be a drop in replacement, Ender 5 S1 should work with some slight rewiring shown in this video

[@JA-fn7le]

@NathanBuildsRobots I sent a message on Patreon, About adding some fan wiring kits to my order.

[@JA-fn7le]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Dang I need to order a couple of the fan wire pigtails and some of the solderless splices. Or I could get them from AMAZON or DigiKey maybe

[@JA-fn7le]

I sent the E5 S1 back, too many problems to deal with. But I’ll use your boards for sure on the E3 S1 pro

[@RotaruCosminLeonard]

The resistor thing is really really really disappointing....

[@jamesocker5235]

Why?

[@cgwworldministries83]

At this point you could just get a prusa and never have to do any of this horseshit.

[@BrehSuckMySock]

Would board work with an Ender 7 if I were to use the sprite Extruder

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I think so, anything that can fit a sprite extruder should also be able to fit this board

[@skinpounder666]

I have everything hooked up the right way and my fans won’t work

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Can you check the + and - to see if it matches up with the fan’s positive and negative? Sometimes it’s backwards. If you hop on discord I can take a look at the wiring and help out more