How and why to replace fuel lines on your classic VW camper. Disaster narrowly averted!

I get to this 1970s Volkswagen bay window camper van just in the nick of time before disaster struck, and get the fuel lines replaced.

[@lukedorny]

Excellent explanations. Isn’t that the truth? Always finding other jobs that also need attention. Also, there’s a reason newer cars have metal fuel lines.

[@gordonmack9948]

Great video thanks 👍🇮🇪

[@carlosz7208]

Luck 🍀 of the Irish 🇮🇪 that filter not failing

[@Endfloat]

Absolutely! He was a very lucky man. I think it melted on a hot starter wire.

[@OldRaver]

Just Kampers sell 5.7mm Ethanol resistant fuel lines, with the relevant clips in a bundle 👍👍 I just bought a V2 and yet again some lazy numpty has put the fuel filter in the engine compartment (I get it, it’s super faffy replacing the lines/filter underneath, but do they not understand the risk putting it inside? To be fair, whoever fit mine has made sure it is far away to the left and clear of anything hot (omg the one you have there close to the exhaust!!!) I could tackle the internal replacement myself, but now I see how faffy it looks doing the underside part, I think I’ll get a pro to do it!!!

[@thetartanwesty]

Yes, just make sure with the ribs on the filter that the pipe goes over them and are then clamped so that if the clamps fail it doesn't pop off and spew fuel.

[@Endfloat]

Absolutely. That's good advice.

[@EngineeredDAILYTV]

Great video. I've got a T2 and this info is gold. I wonder if you could answer a question. What is the correct place to run the breather hose from the fuel tank? I see the standard air filter has gone on this model, so where should that breather hose vent to?

[@Endfloat]

Thanks. If memory serves me, the breather goes across the top of the tank and up into the air vents on the side of the van but I'm not 100% sure. With the crankcase breather, normally people use a small filter on the fitting if they're not running an air filter box with provision for the breather.

[@trevbrady]

Next time you're in there, re-route that white wire to the choke element around the back of the carb. Where it is, it could get frayed by the throttle lever. Potential fire hazard.

[@Endfloat]

Good point. I will do that next weekend. Cheers for pointing that out!

[@markwalsh8411]

You said every 3 years but I would say considering how little it costs to change it all yearly, I’ve seen 1 year old r9 perished, maybe use or lack of was a factor but I’d say yearly. 👍 otherwise great video

[@jaywise8523]

I'm currently doing this on my 1970 bus. This was a great video. I'm having a hard time finding the correct hose clamps. I order some from wolfsburg west and the ones I got are super tight for my 6mm hose. Could you refer me somewhere that I can order ones like you have on this video.

[@Endfloat]

I just bought mine from the local motor factors to be honest. They're not hard to get. You probably need the ones for pipes with an external diameter of 11 to 13mm.

[@Dave_Stafford]

Good advice. The last time I replaced mine I discovered the barbed nozzle could be pulled out of the fuel pump. Driving these things kinda gives the same thrill as base jumping.

[@Endfloat]

It's unusual for the fitting to pull out of the pump, although I've heard it happening with the fitting in the carb. Some people lock wire the fitting in place.

[@only-vans]

Personally, I use E100 rated fuel lines. All fuel has ethanol in it. In winter it has more ethanol in it. Ethanol rots rubber fuel lines. There is no point ( I don't care how original purists want their vans to be ) in using original spec fuel lines. You can't buy original spec fuel. R6 fuel lines will rot and crack within 12 months using modern fuels. R9 fuel line is not much better. Look for the E rating on the fuel line. E100 .... nobody is going to run a vehicle on the road using 100% ethanol fuel, although I would like to see that :-) The danger of burning out your old VW camper is greater if its a petrol engine ... petrol ignites/explodes from the tiniest spark or heat source ( usually exhast manifold). T2 ( bay window) are at the greatest risk of losing their vans due to this type of fire, they prefer to spend their money on bolt on shiny things and polish < LOLZ> or the fact they the vans are older and all petrol engined. T3 owners have all done the TDI swap, so spend most of their time under the van and can see the fuel lines. < LOLZ AGAIN> Hope the E numbers make sense.

[@Endfloat]

That's good info. Thanks for posting.