Engine Assembly Lube Shootout: Which is the Best

Today we’re looking at engine assembly lube and which one delivers on its “marketing” promises on the package. We’ll look at Permatex, Lucas and Royal Purple brands as well as the new gel from Driven Racing Oil. Which one clings best? Do they all dissolve into the engine oil? Which ones should you NOT use? We’ll take a look at some common popular brands and put them to the test.
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#engine #assembly #lube

[@5jjt]

I mix the red Permatex assembly lube with CLP, or oil and lube firearms with it. This mixture has produced the quietest results thus far. Permatex seems to help the lube stay put better than grease.

[@robertbedsole8682]

I always use peanut butter when assembling my engine. Feels good between my fingers, super sticky, cool color, and you can lick the spoon. It passes all of the super-scientific tests in this video with flying colors. At temperature, it smells like Momma's baking cookies. Just be sure not to use the chunky style or you might float a valve (or dental crown). And if you take all that paper stuff out of your oil filter, your oil pressure will be thru the roof. No bout adoubt it...Skippy is way better than even ZuperPurpleSlimeyDrive-InCheezyNachoGoo. Did I mention that it passed all of the super-scientific tests in this video with flying colors? I should have. (P.S.A. I have not been paid for this endorsement, but I am a super-scientific sticky stuff tester and was involved in the Space program. (Well, not THE Space program...it was a pop bottle rocket we made with baking soda and the garden hose) Whatever, if you want my advise, you an send me your peanut butter and I'll test it no charge. (Sorry, no chunky style)

[@Cautela]

Patent idea: 'Peanut Butter Cam Jelly'

[@dnahva8965]

Peanut butter Jelly Time! Where you at!?!

[@bodeine454]

I've always used Goobers peanut butter with apple jelly already pre-mixed as assembly lube with interesting results. As a boner........, I mean bonus, the Apple jelly looks just like the Drivin GT-1 assembly gel and smells terrific 💯.

[@toddmarks581]

Great video I’m assembling a sbf in my apartment today. Needed this video, just ordered 4 packets of the driven.

[@shadow7796]

I just rebuilt the entire top end and lower front end on my old 2001 Honda Rubicon atv. I used a liberal amount of Maxima assembly lube on most of the parts and the assembly grease on things like the inner gears with excellent results. The assembly grease was especially helpful for holding small parts in place, like valve keepers, needle, and regular engine roller bearings. The grease dissolves into petroleum quickly and completely once the engine starts to circulate oil. Im very happy with their products so far.

[@dnahva8965]

Thank you for this video. Rebuilding a k24a2 and this was an excellent test!

[@BigCityBuilder]

Not familiar with that product, will try it. When I was younger STP was what most used, Dad sometimes worked on cars for a used car dealer he always brought Dad STP calling it bearings in a can. Dad had a mason jar with the STP and oil mixed left over and sat it on the window sill the next day there was a clear separation from the oil, STP heavier on the bottom, years later I realized that was my first chemistry lesson

[@bicylindrico]

In the 90's we did many valve jobs in the Mercedes-Benz dealership and the guys used old school STP for assembly lube. I will say that being a flat-rate shop, the engines didn't sit around and were fired up within 1-2 days when the lube was applied. No issues but we weren't breaking in flat tappet camshafts.

[@jimmywilkinson9190]

exactly

[@jimeditorial]

50 years of building engines and I always built them with STP. Assembly lube is the only sensible use for the stuff

[@DSRE535]

Clevitte 77 is my favorite lube after 25 years for bearings it can be used for cam break in but the Isky extreme pressure moly break in grease works best on flat tappet cams in my experience

[@jonmartin2624]

So glad I found this! Have new lifters, rods, rollers to install, so I bought some Lucas. Not planning on firing up anytime soon. Just noticed that driven now has a grease for cam/ lifter/ valve train, and that's what I'll be using. Thank you for saving me a surely catastrophic failure.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Potentially! Driven has had their HVL and assembly grease out for awhile. Still use them frequently. But anything long term (more than a month) gets their gel. Still a huge fan of it. Best of luck on your initial start!

[@Midnightrider773]

I'm using the GP-1 in the mower at the moment and getting at least 7 cuts per change, I guess it helps glide over the lawn faster.

[@CalvinMugenTL]

Thanks for the testing, great content

[@josephpena823]

I've known a lot of old school builders, building lots of engines, they all used lubriplate, never knew any of them to ever have a problem, though I'm sure mist if the newer stuff is great as well.

[@Marus1233]

Just the kind of video I needed! Thank you Sir.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Cool! Thanks for watching!

[@tthams73]

I use the royal purple as a gun lube. Works great for that.

[@dieselstuff2952]

Driven has definitely proven to be great products. The GP-1 line is their version of Brad Penn/ Kendall GT-1 and is from the same refinery. Honestly for the money, best bang for the buck I've found is Clevite Bearing Guard. Very tacky, doesn't drip and mixes very well with engine oil. Enjoyed the video.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I got a long list of other brands I should have tested including the Clevite. I might make a second video and test a new group of products. The Driven gel will be very hard to beat!

[@larrysmith7809]

@@MuscleCarSolutions 0

[@Airman..]

Thanks for this great testing

[@josephnirmaier4140]

That was a great video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. One question that always troubles me though is all the lube (or at least some of it) is wiped off the lobes before the engine ever starts due to setting the pre-load on the lifters. The camshaft has to be moved around to do that properly.

[@bru319]

I'm in the Permatex Ultra Slick camp. When you put it on bearings, the capillary action will hold it there. All you need is a trace film until the engine oil makes its way to these parts. I always crank the engine for 30 seconds with the ignition disconnected to pump the oil through the engine on a fresh rebuild. I would've liked to have seen a lubricity test to see which one is the most slippery under a load.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

If you have the $5-10,000 to send me to hire a lab to do that test, I’d be happy to. And priming the engine that long is just washing away your assembly lube anyway.

[@darwinfoster7420]

Bet you wonder why your cam went flat so quickly . Cant blame it on bad lifters or camshaft . That very first fire up is the most critical for any cam and lifter to survive.

[@brettjacobs242]

"Side note. You'd be surprised how quickly a hundred ml of oil heats up on a burner." Oh no, not at all. I'm guessing that heating oil on a burner is the number one cause of kitchen fires. But, my smartass comments notwithstanding, great video. I came here to find which assembly lube I should use on my project. The ~weeklong test answered a big question I had. I get a couple of hours on the weekend to work on cars. I could easily assemble a head and have it sit for a couple of weeks. Thank you.

[@stevejordan1354]

For the record, I just started a LS that had sat for 5 months with Lucas Assembly lube. It ran for a total of 8 minutes with ZERO oil pressure. The bearings are fantastic.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

8 minutes no oil pressure. What could possibly go wrong? 😳

[@stevejordan1354]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Not a single thing, actually. I checked the bearings (not even measurable wear), replaced the oil pump and fired it right back up. 67 psi cold with 5w30.

[@ShovelMonkey]

I love that, "My Break-in Bad Chemistry set."

[@deejay4837]

I used the Lucas on an Audi cam bridge and anyone that has removed and replaced one knows how crazy bad they seize on the cams and how easily the soft aluminum gets marred. I placed a normal amount on the bridge and cams and was so shocked when I didn't even realize it was already seated perfectly. It was like it mounted itself on...Great stuff I highly recommend it. Also is compatible with all motor oils.

[@cdyjkr]

Oh man, the one I've used the most is CRC, I'd love to see how that does. I'm sure it's fine since I've never had an issue, either way great video and great testing process.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s the thing about most of the time. You never know what the wear looks like till it’s time to freshen up the engine.

[@cdyjkr]

@@MuscleCarSolutions absolutely, I have never had to build the same engine twice so I really would have no way to know. I'll definitely take your results here and figure out what I'm buying next.

[@frankdelgado6353]

Question so what would you recommend for a motor that’s going to sit I have the pets for the short block but need to save for the cam kit

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Absolutely the Driven gel.

[@wearegame777]

Are we confusing assembly lube for cam break-in lube here? Driven is marketed as a camshaft break-in lube and included with Lunati camshafts now. The others are assembly lube that I would never put on a camshaft for break-in. Almost every cam manufacturer has it's own lubes they recommend and only one of them is in this test.

[@mauriziomanocchio2055]

Excellent video! thanks

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you!

[@dennis6325]

I am curious why you definitively ruled out the Super White Grease. Why exactly is it so poor? I noticed you did not try dissolving it in oil. Does it dissolve in oil? I am rebuilding my old NP203 Chevy Transfer Case and it has tons of needle bearings (over 200 of them). I tried using Lubriplate 105 to hold the needle bearings in place, but it was not tacky enough. I ended up using Lucas Red & Tacky Lithium grease to hold them in place for assembly. However, I'm concerned it won't eventually dissolve in the oil. This is a full time transfer case and uses 10W40 motor oil. I probably should of used some TransJel or vaseline. Do you think I will have any problems with it eventually breaking down and mixing with the oil?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Because white lithium grease contains no zinc, which is extremely critical for initial engine break in.

[@chalinp4886]

I use lubi plate on all my semi Diesel engine rebuilts on cam rockers piston pins and rods and mains etc on piston rings I just use Diesel engine oil never had any problems taky only slows engine oil from the oil pump on initial engine start I do agree that tacky is good for flat tap engines

[@russwilson2182]

How does this gel compare to redline assembly lub?

[@shadvan9494]

I restore old cars as a hobby. and do around 1-2 engine builds a year. I prefer the Max Tuff lube for main and rod bearings, and the Driven Engine assembly lube on roller cams, I use max tuff on roller rocker arms, valve guides. i use driven assembly lube on the ends of the push rods, and max tuff on piston pins, and rings. for ball stud rockers or shaft rockers, i use comp cams spray lube. I use comp cams valve train lube spray on the springs and for the gears on the cam and distributer. I also use Driven Break-in Engine oil for the first 30-minute breaking period. then i switch or either Lucas hot rod and classic or mobile 1 full synthetic depending on the engine. On flat tappet cams i use the lube recommended by the manufacturer and Lucas Break In oil. it has 4000ppm ZDDP for protection of flat tappet cams. after the initial 30 min break in period, I change the oil and filter and then refill with Luca's break in oil for the first 500 miles, then swap to Lucas hot rod and classic since it has 2100 ppm ZDDP and the benefit of anti-corrosion additive package, since most classic cars are not drive frequently. flat tappet cams require high zddp oils to live a happy life, they need at least 1600 ppm ZDDP. there is currently no engine oil brand that you can buy at the auto parts store off the shelf. all for them are SN rated and have less than 1000 ppm ZDDP. so, if you plan to run a flat tappet cam, plan to buy some kind of specialty oil like Luca's or other that have a High ZDDP and order it in advance before doing oil changes. air cooled VW's i use bard penn 10w40 in winter and 20w50 in summer I have not had a cam go flat since 2003. not since switching to better oils and better break in lubes.

[@Nickthestorekeeper]

4:21 I saw the tub of Ranch White Queso on the table. How did it stack up against the rest?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Panchos is the real deal. Can’t use it for assembly lube though. The container is always empty!

[@jessesyfie7244]

Id like to see these tests on the CRC Sta-Lube and the Isky Rev-Lube???

[@4speed3pedals]

I am late to the show but has anyone used Mr. Race Oil assembly, cam lube? It stays in place for ages and the maker says it dissolves in oil with no issues. Cummins Reman uses it. Goodson sells it and it can be purchased directly.

[@1987whitez]

Marvelous Marvin the best around from what I have gather.

[@BakirNinja2012]

Awesome video!!!

[@musicfashionstyle9269]

For royal purple max tuff. Use it anytime or after oil change.

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

I've built a few engines and tried out various assembly lubricants. I've narrowed it down to two types of products for general engine assembly. 20w50 engine oil in a squirt can for bearings, it's tacky and has plenty of cushion and doesn't run off of stuff very easily. ND30 (ND10 is recommended by several piston ring manufacturers) for piston and rings, you don't want a lot of excess thick oil hanging around the piston and rings clogging and carboning up on first startup. Flat tappet cams get a healthy coating of moly grease on the cam lobes and lifter faces, the lifter bores and sides of the lifter get engine oil, you don't want thick sticky gel slowing down the rotating ability of the flat tappet lifter, oil will be just fine for that. As far as valves in cylinder heads, I absolutely hate anything thick and sticky or greasy. I have taken apart several new and rebuilt sets of cylinder heads that didn't get used for several years, the grease they had used on all of them basically dried up and I am willing to bet they all would have had at least one valve stick had I not taken them apart for inspection. Again, a good amount of engine oil there is sufficient, and I bet would hang around a lot longer than that white grease would have on the valve stems. I'm not quite sure how the logic of ENGINE oil being used for assembly is a bad thing. From the first start up to the time the engine is taken out of service all it will ever see, is engine oil.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What properties of an off the shelf engine oil facilitate the breakin process?

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Other than some special care when it comes to a flat tappet cam the rest of the parts should be just fine with a good oil. No special lubricants were used on new engines at the factory and every new engine should be pre lubed when possible before startup anyways. Are you going to tear your new engine back down and re lube everything with special gels before startup when everything is still breaking in? Of course not you're going to the the key and start the engine. A lot of the snake oil assembly lubricants are like fishing rods, most are designed to catch the fishermen at the store. If the oil you're using isn't suitable for assembly lube before first start it sure as hell isn't good enough to be used in a running engine.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@MattsRageFitGarage if you think that flat tappet cams are the only part of an engine that wears in on a fresh rebuild, then there’s really nothing left to discuss. Have a great day!

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Everything wears in, and eventually wears out. But with a flat tappet cam there isn't much room for error on those things. The bearings, ideally should never make contact with the crank, they float on a cushion of oil. There should be no break in process there if the clearances and mainline are right. Piston rings, need a film of lubrication but not an excessive amount of thick gooey stuff as that can hinder the seating process and it just overloads the oil control ring at first. Pistons, of course need oil to keep from scuffing in the bore. I have built some not so cheap engines,($3000 machine shop bill alone) and I must have done something right because they all run excellent with good oil pressure, no blow by and the oil that comes out during an oil change looks and smells good. The only things I used were engine oil and moly grease where needed. On my last engine, I used moly grease on the pushrod ends and once the oil pump was spun up the oil washed it all right out anyways. I suppose that is fine if the engine is going to sit in a corner for years but for something that will be fired up in short order I don't see the point. I have used a lot of the off the shelf assembly gel's in the past and have grown to dislike them for the majority of the engine assembly process. So, if the assembly lubricant just gets washed out during the first 10 seconds of oil flowing through during the pre lube session before the engine is even started I don't see much of a point in using it. Have a nice day!!!

[@mistersniffer6838]

Moly for a flat tappet cam and grease up the timing chain with some red tacky grease would be my "only" worry. Pre prime the rest and off you go!!

[@timweb1510]

Which one sir for a cam install for an engine that may sit for quite a while? I saw you said driven in another post, which would be your second choice? Thanks

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I don’t have a second choice. If it’s going to sit for an extended period of time, the gel is the way to go.

[@timweb1510]

@@MuscleCarSolutions you sold me man 👍🏻

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@timweb1510 there may be other brands of assembly gel out there but the Driven one was the first I’ve seen and had a chance to use.

[@robertstenang2914]

Have you tries Bel ray assembly lube with moly?

[@torquebooster]

Hello, nice video. I have some questiones. How does the grease dissolve in the oil? And why did you heat up the oil? At first startup the oil is cold and it takes a while for it to heat up. Maybe in this time the gel for example could probably clog up some little oil holes and cause metal wear. Another video according this subject would be great. Greetings. Martin

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Break in starts immediately when a new engine is fired up. This is when the assembly lube or gel is at its most critical point. With those sustained rpms of 2000-2500 and a tighter engine, heat is generated quickly. Oil temps rise very fast as it’s carrying away the heat from the surfaces it contacts. That’s why the oil was heated for this demonstration to show how well it breaks down. The gel is sticky and adheres to the surfaces it’s applied on very well for long durations, but its chemical make up has the properties needed to help the break in and dissolve away in a very short amount of time. The way oil flows through a V8 of this type, there is no concern for those tighter tolerance parts such as hydraulic lifters.

[@torquebooster]

Thank you.

[@geebopbaluba1591]

I’ve built a lot of engines and really have never had problems with lubriplate 105! I just had a headache with a brand new xe series comp cam that I used there grease with break in oil and the cam wiped within 5 minutes at 2000 rpm. I really wish I would have used lubriplate 105.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What springs did you use?

[@brettjohnson8009]

The biggest thing with flat tappet cams and lifters is to make sure the new lifters are not flat on the face ( doesn't matter where you got them or how much you paid) and the lifters fit the bores properly ,flat tappet lifters should spin when the engine is rotated and the convex face follows the profile of the cam

[@scottwheaton9689]

Comps super thin red assembly lube is NG because it runs of the cam lobes soon after it’s applied so you get a mostly dry start leading the premature cam & lifter failure.

[@darwinfoster7420]

Never had a problem with comp cams and lifters

[@wil8115]

Clevitte77 bearing guard and Driven assy lube are my favs.

[@bboyairrick]

good review. I hoped you would have included redline's assembly lube.

[@michaelgreen7028]

Where is the Comp Cams Assembly lubes? (104, or 152?)

[@FishFind3000]

One thing I notice is that gel material seems to have a hard time to get 100% coverage compared to permatex or others that are thinner.

[@specialized29er86]

Engine assembly lube vs engine oil, why use lube other than engine oil. Been using 20w50 engine oil for 50 years as assemble lube and never a problem.

[@ohger1]

Agree. I want to ensure oil gets between the shells and rotating parts as soon as possible. I always spin the pump, then spin the motor for about 30 seconds with no plugs before first start to make sure she's fully primed and the bearings are "floating".

[@dstolarc]

I was waiting for an actual wear test, but never saw it. Assembly lubes protect parts wear on first start up. You claimed a winner but never actually tested ANY wear properties. I'll keep searching the internet and eventually I find an actual wear test. Thanks for posting this video though 🙂

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

My Patreon link in in the description. If you’d like to send a donation for $5000 or more, I’d be happy to pay the other half for that level of testing.

[@ewlyon]

Project farm might do a testing video if enough people throw the suggestion in the comments

[@darwinfoster7420]

Project farm has a lot of flawed results . He has to keep his sponsors happy .

[@jeffpysell4464]

What ever happened to using moly grease on cams and assembly lube for bearings?

[@muhammadakmalfadilah3273]

Hi just want to know, if an example we use lucas oil on cam shaft and let it be for a week, then i put engine oil to the required amount for an engine, then i fire it up, will it be ok?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

For initial start up protection? No.

[@stephenanderle5422]

Yes. If you pre fill the filter.

[@VinoRatRodbuilds]

Watching right now 👍

[@peteross4293]

try using the detroit deisel"peanutbutter" for this.and what about the lubri plate assembly lube?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Peanut butter has already been proven to be a terrible assembly lube for automotive engines and more specifically anything older that requires the right amount of zinc and moly. Wasn’t even considered given how bad it actually is.

[@mikemechanic8636]

Built a fair amount of small engines with lubriplate 105. All of them use flat tappet cams. Never had an issue.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Roll the dice, pray for the best!

[@maxxt4428]

I've used "Lucas Extreme Pressure Valvetrain Grease 10578 " on cams and lifters, and that stuff stays on there, and it's really tacky. I use the other stuff like Ultra Slick on bearings.

[@richardpatrick7701]

The Driven, looks like a winner, seeing how I'm not starting the engine right away. One question, would you use it for the piston rings?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Never done a premier before. That was kinda fun. Thanks for watching! Let me know what you think of this one. First time doing anything like this.

[@skipthompson288]

Killed it bro. Awesome video. Hell I even learned something lol

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Man thanks. And thanks for being around since day one of this channel. Appreciate ya brother.

[@user-nc7qu8dc7o]

I mean I really don't spend the extra money on the assembly lube when I build an engine. As long as you pre lube the parts with oil it'll leave a very thin film on the parts. At least it's not running dry for them I first start it. Oil doesn't evaporate. So as long it's a break in oil that you used as a assembly lube it'll be fine. I know a lot of engine factories that don't use assembly lube and just use there factory engine oil. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@DibroTeam]

Red Permatex or Lucas assembly lube? I will orde rone of them but can't decide

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

If you were to pick two of the worst performing products, I guess the Lucas would be better. Not by much though. I wouldn’t use either.

[@DibroTeam]

@@MuscleCarSolutions i have only these brand in my country.... Also AmsOil assembly lube I just found it..

[@vincentlouis3363]

Great content

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you. Appreciate that.

[@vincentlouis3363]

@@MuscleCarSolutions how long would store a rebuilt motor that has not been broke in?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@vincentlouis3363 guess that depends. Using the gel I would probably be comfortable for a very long period of time. Still would prime the oil pump prior to start and use a good breakin oil. I’d probably be ok with six months. Anything longer than that I’d be tempted to pull the pan and intake and get a good look at the cam.

[@andrewbanuelos7473]

How many packs of Driven gel should I buy for my sbc 383 build? The 1oz seems to not be enough for the crank, rods, and cam ect.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I just did a small block with three packets. You don’t have to put it on super thick like I did in the video. Wipe a thin layer on the surfaces and you’ll be good.

[@datruth9850]

@@MuscleCarSolutions super quick reply. Sounds good. Thank you.

[@christopherlister8932]

interesting video although I feel the test of letting the lube sit on a bare cam and see what's left later after a week isn't realistic to how it would be in an engine. when a cam is in an engine its going to retain a ton more oil under and around it being in a journal, there is no doubt there. There would be a significant amount of oil or assembly lube under each journal or cam bearing on the cam compared to this in open air sitting allowing to drip dry.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Slam one in an engine with the amount of live you’re comfortable with and come back and week later and remove it. Sure anything that’s in direct contact with something like bearings will retain more, but those exposed lobes lose lube VERY quickly. Cam lobes are the big concern here, especially with the issues over than last decade or so with flat tappet failures. Give it a try. I think you’ll be surprised how little of that assembly lube sticks around. Kind of scary.

[@christopherlister8932]

@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah, I actually experienced this first hand recently on an engine that sat assembled w Lucas assembly lube for 2yrs bagged up the lobes surprisingly were all covered still and when removed there was loads under the cam in the journals

[@FishFind3000]

I’d like to see valcos gel lube tested

[@Autophysn]

Thank you Sir!

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You’re very welcome sir!

[@Autophysn]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Haha, I just started to get back on my jeep. I used that Joe Gibbs stuff you recommended during assembly engine was on the stand for over a year, Still looked great! added a little more just for comfort and getting ready to break this guy in soon. Thank you!!!

[@Autophysn]

Came back to this after a while, my cam survived but rings did not seal. Only 115psi compression after 1000 miles. I bring this up because now there is a new Driven product HVL, and it might be time for an updated video 😉👍 Thanks again! I truly value your work! Thank you for sharing...

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@Autophysn The HVL has been out for a decade or so. Sorry to hear you had break in issues. How long did you run break in oil?

[@Autophysn]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I did the additive with cj4 oil 🙄 Learning experience for me. All good, I am learning a lot, this is just a 258 6cyl Jeep motor, very basic. However I love driving the jeep, so I bought another motor while I work on this one...I am having fun...I have been a fleet mechanic all my career, but never get this far into engines, we just swap them. I am learning this guy now before I move onto a few big blocks my dad has that need to be done. After this jeep, will be my 69 El Camino. Love this stuff!!!! All hobby for me, but also my therapy....Thank you for your videos! I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge!

[@tommyboy1two]

What do you think about moly assembly lubes

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Most of these had some amount of moly in them. It’s a great lubricant.

[@tonywall8991]

You didn't give the lithium greese a fair go, you didn't test it in the heat test, I wanted to know about that one. I also wanted to know if chain bar lube could be used às an assembly lube.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

There was zero reason to even mention it. It’s got no zinc in it. Only an idiot would use it as an assembly lubricant.

[@tonywall8991]

@@MuscleCarSolutions so what about chain bar lube, it's sticky, could it be used as an assembly lube?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@tonywall8991 does it have the correct formulation of zinc and moly?

[@tonywall8991]

@@MuscleCarSolutions not sure I will check, what am I looking for exactly, by that I mean what do you call, "correct formula "

[@tonywall8991]

Might seem like a stupid question, but remember we're not all mechanics, I'm looking for something to do in my old age that I can make a couple of bucks out of to help with my pension, I am trying to learn everything I can about small engine repairs.

[@Milner62]

How would you compare the GP-1 Gel to the Driven Engine Assembly Grease? Reading Ive been doing has a strong recommendation of a quality assembly grease like the Driven assembly grease for aggressive roller cam lubrication for break in but Ive personally never used it before and not much online comparing the GP1 to the assembly grease.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Excellent. I think if o were going to assemble and let sit longer than a month, I would go with the gel. If I were going to assemble and get running in less than that, either would be very good. It’s great product. That sticky property but still break down easily as the engine warms to operating temps is a win.

[@Milner62]

@@MuscleCarSolutions, Thats what I was thinking. My build I am doing will be sitting for a bit for final pieces so I do need something like the GP1 to cling to the cam. I hope the engine wont sit too long but after assembly I have to measure push rod length to order push rods, I have to send my shorty headers out for ceramic coating, got to mail out my distributor for recurving and I still have to buy the minor bits and pieces for my sniper stealth installation. I actually came across this video while searching for videos on the Driven Engine Assembly Grease its a part number 00728 and its under $25 for a pound of it. But after seeing the GP1 I might just go with that instead for my cam, roller lifters, pushrods, distributor gear and roller rockers.

[@kelvinleong915]

Lucas is good? Amd will oil pressure increase

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

The test was only for what engines builders look for initially and that’s cling. The Driven gel was hands down the best for its cling properties.

[@GreatestHITS26]

Should i use CRC sta-lube with moly-graphite?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Don’t have a clue. I didn’t test it and I suppose it would depend on what your needs are.

[@GreatestHITS26]

@@MuscleCarSolutions i bought 2 bottles & i heard it was good. Im doing a camshaft kit on my LS1

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@GreatestHITS26 I’ve only used it one other time in the past and wasn’t impressed with it and wasn’t unimpressed with it if that makes sense. It was just what we had and I used it.

[@GreatestHITS26]

@@MuscleCarSolutions oh okay well i just want to make sure i have all the right things bc i don’t want to lock my motor up.

[@GreatestHITS26]

@@MuscleCarSolutions so your saying the product was okay??

[@edwardaloftis6705]

Why does the motor manual state use the same oil your going to use in the engine?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

What motor manual?

[@Km64-oo1vc]

what do you use to pack a new oil pump?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Pack an oil pump? I hope that horrible advice isn’t still floating around the interwebs. If you mean prime a pump for first start, I’ll generally spin the pump for just a couple seconds. If you prime it for several minutes thinking it’s doing any good, it’s not. You’re washing away all your first start up protection.

[@iava1981]

What Do you think about permatex assembly lube?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Based on this test and because they don’t have the proper level of zinc for the older engines I generally work on, I wouldn’t use it.

[@buddyburk3184]

Do this test again with STP and try the white grease in the oil heat test

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Sure. Send me whatever products you want me to test.

[@darwinfoster7420]

Can you send me any of the white grease that has sink in it ,that's why it isnt good on camshafts and lifters .

[@Canbechangedtwiceeveryfourteen]

What’s the diff between assembly lube and red n tacky?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You want to know the difference between engine assembly lube and wheel bearing grease?

[@Canbechangedtwiceeveryfourteen]

@@MuscleCarSolutions well you used lithium grease which is also used on wheel bearings, so would the red n tacky damage internally? Seals, pumps, etc? If the two are interchangeable on one application, what makes them not interchangeable on the other? Also, what do you recommend to lubricate driveshaft splines? Sorry so many questions I’m genuinely trying to get a better understanding here. I appreciate your response as well

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Unfortunately because people still think and use white lithium as engine assembly lube. Yes, the red tacky grease would cause issues. The assembly lubes tested (other than the white lithium) as designed to dissolve and let the engine oil take over as the primary lubrication. Initial start up is the primary, first concern. Once that break in has occurred and the engine is getting the lubrication it needs, the assembly lube is no longer a factor. Using a grease that’s not designed to move and has the chemical make up to handle the load and heat that an engine oil sees will damage an engine.

[@Canbechangedtwiceeveryfourteen]

@@MuscleCarSolutions awesome thank you for that

[@willis23jm1]

i doubt we need much oil on part... simply because only a thin layer of lube needed.... i can assure that a great amount of the apply oil will fly off at first rotation

[@bencrosbie]

no STP I dig the permatex lube and driven gp1

[@carbonconnection2480]

I know I'm going to get roasted for this but I use the driven and on the first start up I don't have any oil in the engine at all. So I'm depending on it to carry my first break in cycle up to temp. Highly recommend using it 👌

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Initial break in of new components is extremely critical for the long term wear and use of an engine. The cam and lifters are one of the most critical areas. Bearings are the other. Dry initial start up sounds terrifying! lol

[@carbonconnection2480]

@@MuscleCarSolutions. If its not broke, don't fix it right? LoL

[@FishFind3000]

@@carbonconnection2480 it’s gonna be broke really quick if you do stuff like that!

[@carbonconnection2480]

@@FishFind3000. Worked for years with no issues

[@devilmonkey]

@@carbonconnection2480 why the hell would you even do that

[@ohger1]

General comment. I wouldn't use anything by Lucas even on a lawn mower.

[@arielatom03]

Really? Why?

[@mgmjferg89]

Without any reason opinions don't mean anything.

[@misters2837]

I feel same way about scAMSOIL

[@jeffpysell4464]

Agreed Lucas oil stabilizer is simply bar and chain oil

[@josephkelly4893]

Permarex Ultra Slick is the best I’ve found.

[@jeffreydiaz7833]

Can assembly lube be added in with the motor oil during oil change on a car or bike?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

No. It’s “assembly” lube. It’s designed to be the first line of lubrication on newly assembled, metal to metal contact parts.

[@scottwheaton9689]

Too bad you overlooked crane’s great sticky grey color moly assembly lube that comes with all their new ft cam & lifter kits. I’ve been using it for over 4 decades with great results & it stays put for wks/months till you fire up a fresh motor or just a fresh cam install.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Crane is no longer in business.

[@audirx8]

Liqui moly lm48 assembly pase. Doesn't drip Stays in place for as long as you need.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I had no access to it at the time of the video. I’ve got no issue with the liquimoly product. Works well.

[@curtthompson2787]

While the drip test was a good visual, it was only 1 of 3 tests and had problems in itself. The white grease tied for the best in the drip but you said it should never be used. It performed the best. Shouldve gone on to explain why not to use it and what it does. Then try to create a test that illustrates that issue for all of them. The testing was pretty subjective. Didnt disolve the grease in oil so that one wasnt equal. Its a good attemp at your first testing like this but to get a good idea how to measure and conduct the tests you could watch Project Farm on KZbin. Everything is measured, timed, guaged, temperature taken, etc. Hes done some testing on different engine oil comparisons that might have been valid for this test. He also gives a brief description what hes doing and then plays it in fast time. He talks pretty fast and you dont have to talk that fast but make the point and thats all. Guessing, assuming, thinking, etc means the test is subjective. Stick to the facts, say it and stop, and get through it. Might have been able to cut a chunk of time off this video. Makes it easier to watch.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s the problem with the white lithium. It’s got NO zinc. A prime component for break in. So even if it passed my basic tests perfectly, it was a fail from the start. Yet some folks slap that on and think they’ve done a good thing. JIFF peanut butter might have performed well too, but I’m not going to use it for my cam break in.

[@curtthompson2787]

@@MuscleCarSolutions lol, i wouldnt advise peanut butter. I just thought, heard, the lithium grease wipes off and can clog small passages?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@curtthompson2787 with the amount of oil pressure that goes through those passages I don’t think that would ever be an issue. At least I haven’t heard of any or gotten any horror stories from any machine shops I deal with.

[@darwinfoster7420]

Project farm is flawed on a lot of his testing because he has sponsors he has promote ,dont want to get them mad .

[@joecorrie1]

Been wrenching for 45 years most off road heavy equipment and crane repair and have always used lubriplate 105 and have never had any issues with it, back then people made something as good as they could and now a days it’s all about the money so I have a hard time when I hear these millenniums saying it’s better, but I’m old school, yes sold the big 330 Pete and still run around in a F450 service truck at 61 years old and yes there’s still some 105 in the lube cabinet.

[@yurimodin7333]

no moly?

[@flailios]

ATF isn't going to do anything once the engine is at temp. Between 80c and 115c, ATF becomes super thin and it's not going to live behind your bearing long. If someone mentioned a spun bearing, they're just spitting words they've heard.

[@bgregg1981]

I’m surprised to not see BG Assembly lube on here

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Never heard of it.

[@sloob3039]

To be fair the test is somewhat flawed from the start, you're basing your result on the product that acts the most like assembly grease. You can buy assembly grease if you want to install your camshaft and let it sit. According to the measurable part of your test the white lithium grease did just as well as the GP-1. but obviously white lithium grease isn't the greatest assembly lube and I would not use it. The reason it did good on your test is because It's a gel, if you had tested peanut butter it would also have not dripped down. If your physical test rank the second worst lube as one of the best you know it's flawed. GP-1 is not the best assembly lube and you can see it in the first part of the video when you test the stickiness. The gel seems to mostly stick to itself and you can see that the bulk of the blob moves from one finger to the other. The permatex and lucas did a much better job at sticking to the part (in this case your finger).

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

You make a few fair points. The basic plan was to take the top engine assembly lubricants from local auto parts stores and a couple that had high ratings online. The trouble with the permatex and the Lucas is it had no staying power. If you’re assembling and firing up the next say or two, either would have done the job just fine. In a perfect world, that would be the case. For most, engines seem to sit around for weeks or months before they get fired up for that initial break in. That was the entire basis for picking a winner. The chemical make up of each isn’t something I could ever do but it’s one that for sure could be useful information. Perfect test? No. One with measurable results based on the assumption that most engines sit for an extended period of time before initial start up? I think it covered most of that. You mentioned peanut butter and that one was in my list but when searching online and in local stores I never found it. I think it’s more of an machine shop item that’s not talked about enough for it to be mainstream. Either that or Auto Zone and O’Reillys has it hidden when I was shopping. I don’t disagree that it likely would have performed along the same results as the Driven. Easily accessible and found by the in home engine builder was a big part of selecting the product. Good points and I appreciate the feedback. Not my normal type of video and this was the best “test” I could think of with the two major considerations.

[@sloob3039]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Fair point. If I can make a suggestion for a followup video it would be to get a complete overhead cam head from a junkyard and apply the lube on the lobes and turn the cams with a small electric motor for a set period of time and check for wear. It would give a realistic scenario of cranking a fresh engine with the pump not primed.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@sloob3039 I’ve been giving a follow up video some thought. I do have access to a few tools that will measure lobes and journals in a before and after comparison. Would cost a few bucks, but might be worth seeing the results. Appreciate the suggestion. Have lots of ideas in mind. Have to decide on which way to go.

[@wkjeeping9053]

Assembly lube one thing you want most of is zinc concentrated.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Which is the exact reason why white lithium grease is awful!

[@TheBigRed.]

You should shake the bottle. ✊👋👌

[@alanmeyers3957]

So it has to be tacky for assembly lube?!? Ever heard of bearing clearance and oil pressure?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

😆😆😆 I’m quite sure thousands of engine builders have it wrong then.

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

No Assemblee Goo Green??

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Never heard of it.

[@jeffpysell4464]

Clevite bearing guard is pretty much the same as the gel but instead of an ounce for $7 you get 8ounces

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That’s not a gel. Same result as any of the others.

[@craighatfield6391]

Wheres vasaline? I assembled my family with that. Broke in fine.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

😆😆😆

[@alouiciousjackson5812]

I've always used Red Line or Amsoil. I wouldn't use any product made by Royal Purple.

[@williamdillingham5781]

Take note that the white grease has probably been around longer than anything else on the market for the purpose of building things like engines

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

And no zinc.

[@chrisparker9886]

Amsoil! 😁

[@antoninomorales]

this test missed the part where u have the bearings or caps not letting the oil drip and this is what it was, just a drip test...u can see how the white paste held up fine because well, past doesn't drip...redline assembly lube would of won on a drip test as well.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Absolutely it was just a cling test. To test mains or rods that are torqued down would have been pointless. What’s left (or not) on the cam after a short duration showed the importance of choosing the right assembly lube.

[@joeblow7821]

why would you want an assembly lube that stays like grease blobs going through your engine could slow down oil flow through certain passages especially in the cam gear area some sticky is good but permatex ultra is the best way better than what is reccomended in this video

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Couple things. You’re using this on initial contact surfaces. Bearings, cam, lifter face. The driven assembly lube has good hold properties without being too sticky like some of the others. It’s not made to last for days after initial start up. It’s made to last seconds after to start up for initial protection. That’s why we did the test to see how quickly it dissolved. There are several other gel type products on the market and they perform exceptionally well. Don’t understand it? Buy a packet and see for yourself.

[@mnewln1800]

I stricty use WLG. Lasts for months and keeps the voices at a minumum!

[@gearhead7896]

Where's the Lubriplate 105?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Absolute garbage in an engine. It’s a universal lubricant, not a specialty lubricant. It’s got a tiny amount of zinc and no moly. Same as the white lithium grease. Horrible choice for engine assembly.

[@gearhead7896]

@@MuscleCarSolutions Ok, I had my suspicions. How about the CRC Engine Assembly Lube then?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@gearhead7896 has plenty of moly but I don’t know how much zinc it has. CRC as a brand though is good. Would have to look into what it’s made of.

[@anthonygiannone1006]

So for the same reason you love the driven you don’t like the white lithium?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

That generic white grease doesn’t have Zinc dithiophosphate.