Engine Building Part 11 - Engine Painting

A guide to painting your engine and engine paint
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[@OneDrone]

Mate, I really love your videos and your attitude. People should be grateful for people like you to learn from. You acknowledge that no one knows everything, and, willing to learn more yourself. Keep up the great work!

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you Sean

[@loriskillern804]

Pete, thanks for your videos! I came in knowing NOTHING about cars! I leave having a better understanding of how a car works. I'm not trying to become a pro by any means I just wanted to educate myself on how a car operates. Thanks again for the awesome videos...and yes, you should go into teaching. I'd think you'd be excellent!

[@ArcticAstrophysics]

Never would have thought about aluminum foil, great tip!

[@PetesGarage]

ArcticAstrophysics Works every time

[@MrQ8fan]

I have been watching all of engine building parts and I learned lots of things along the way..appreciate it thanks

[@Enguser100]

Thank You Sean for the great effort and time, we might need to read many books and we will not be able to get these tips and experience. Vielen Dank!!!

[@danielrdugan]

Amazing video series! I've watched all of them. Thank you for taking the time to upload all this information. You did an awesome job at explaining everything.. Again THANK YOU!

[@PetesGarage]

Dan Dugan That's awesome Dan. Thank you for watching my friend

[@deanmcquillen4118]

What a series of videos. Way to go, Pete. You are among the best of instructors - learning ought to always be this much fun.

[@PetesGarage]

+Diesel Ready I'm trying....not sure about fun, but I try to make it less boring

[@harmvalentijn8665]

Great Video's Pete! I wish you were my neighbour!!! A am a total novice in car repair and learned to take things apart of my car (citroen xm turbo diesel) and put the things back in place, hoping to not be left with any bolts, not knowing where they would have to go (which actually happened) because it broke down when staying on a camping in the mountains in Spain. A lot of white smoke and loss of cooling liquid, so you may guess what happened. Well, the garage in the village refused to repair it, so I had no choice! I asked a friend of mine in Holland (where I am from), to go to the library and get the book about my car and copy the pages about changing the cylinder head gasket and send it to me. Together with my children and the copies in the hand we took the things apart, writing down and drawing everything we did. Once we had a new gasket we did the whole process in reverse. I was pleasantly surprised when I started the motor, and it actually run! We drove home, but with the motor smoking enormously during about 500 miles (which we tried to ignore), after 500 miles the smoke fortunately disappeared and all was well. It has functioned well since then for some years. Now things are different and the motor was making such a banging noise (of which nobody could tell me the cause), that I decided to buy a new (second hand) motor and replace it. I am working on it now to get it running again. Unfortunately I miss time to dedicate to repairing the car (that I've started to get attached to), so temporally we are doing all by bus, train and of course... bicycle now, until I got it fixed again. However there are always new challenges. Seeing you building a motor from scratch is very stimulating! Thank you so much for making the video's and share them with us!

[@PetesGarage]

+Harm Valentijn Wow...what a story! the white smoke was from coolant getting into the combustion chamber. It will clear up after awhile but you probably scored the cylinders from the steam. Steam is very corrosive so the block needed to be bored out. At least you have the guts to try to fix it yourself. Let me know if you plan on moving to the US...lol

[@MegaBigman1111]

I love your channel man, and I love your videos, I have learnt so much from this channel, keep up the good work.

[@stanthology]

Hey Pete I prostrate myself before your attention to detail! Regarding masking spark plug holes... To avoid dropping any FM into my precious motorcycle engine, I cut some spark plugs just above the threads so there was a tiny bit of flare left on the plugs. Batter out any porcelain.Then I JB Welded an Allen (hex hole) screw into the remains of the spark plug. I just whacked the ground electrode up a bit and it helps to hold the Allen screw in place till the JB Weld cures. Now the top of the Allen screw is flush with the flare piece of the remains of the spark plug threads. You can now take a wood dowel and epoxy a piece of the correct size Allen key into it. You hold the threaded gadget you just made with the Allen key and can reach into an installed engine, past all the manifolds, heat shields etc. and even use compressed air to blow dirt away from your spark plug holes with no risk of any FM falling into the precious engine. You can even use a scraper to dislodge the FM on the convenient ledge usually found right by spark plugs Because the slight flare you left on the end of the spark plug threads in can be tightened snuggly and you don't have to worry about screwing the thing right into the combustion chamber and having the blasted thing fall into the engine. Or in your case, just use this for masking the holes.

[@PetesGarage]

That is an absolutely brilliant idea! Thank you for sharing it with us!

[@UH123ful]

I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.

[@daveayres8273]

Great series. Really comprehensible info. Way back when, it was kind of established that a rough finish paint coating on the engine, allowed the engine block to dissipate heat from the engine more 'efficiently'. It was found that black was a more efficient color than Chevy orange. Same with the aluminum intake manifold, no paint on the exposed rough surface was a way to save the engine from retaining heat unnecessarily. The paint on an intake manifold was not necessary. The old, old chevy 265 283 and 327's in 'stock', non performance engines were presented in vehicles from the factory with the "cast iron" intake manifold painted Chevy orange. Racers were using physics back in the 70's.

[@PetesGarage]

Interesting, thanks for the input.

[@Blafard666]

So neat , good job !

[@blairguinea1337]

Thanks so much Pete....you are the perfectionist of the highest degree

[@PetesGarage]

It's a curse

[@RedPillAware]

Greeting from Australia (Adelaide). Thank you so much for your fantastic, easy to understand videos. I am studying engineering at university. Your videos are the best on Utube. Thanks again.

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you so much mt friend...Greetings from New York....

[@guerosern]

GREAT JOB PETE !! I run a family oriented Autobody shop and looking to follow your tips on Engine detailing !!

[@PetesGarage]

That is awesome...thanks Emanuel! Detailing is in the eyes of the beholder.....or customer

[@Barnekkid]

Great video, Pete, and thanks for sharing the knowledge. I always learn something from your stuff.

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you my friend...never stop learning!

[@sanantonionolimitrcracing]

Your the man Pete when you're videos are a hour long they pass fast when I'm watching I learned alot so far from your videos! Thanks!

[@PetesGarage]

That's great...thanks Ruben...keep on learning.

[@xastolensummerx]

great guide you've done, thanks very much. looking forward to more!

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks greg....I'm making them as fast as I can

[@nd318865]

Thank you for the entire series of 11 videos. I feel like I may be due a couple college credits at the least. Great work!

[@donrutter6765]

Great quality work, and thorough. 4 stars.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Don

[@joedicarlo8817]

I would definitely let this man build me an engine, incredible attention to detail and takes pride in doing it.

[@PetesGarage]

+Joe Di Carlo Thank you very much my friend. I believe if it's worth doing...it's worth doing right

[@Siafu66]

Another great video Pete. I watch them in their entirety and I'm not even a car guy. Well done!

[@PetesGarage]

Should have made a video on polishing acrylic...

[@frostyshakez77]

Awesome play list. Learnt some new things, especially about cork gaskets!

[@PetesGarage]

+Romil Singh Cork is no bad...but there is better

[@Diftonez]

Like the way you work, and your approach.

[@PetesGarage]

+Diftonez I always try to do things right

[@slimjim119]

looks awesome great job

[@93kassem]

Thanks Pete for this series , it's very useful and learned me so much . And I'm waiting the installation of electrics and seeing this engine running Greetings from Egypt :)

[@PetesGarage]

I'm almost finished. I will have those videos. Type text or a website address or translate a document. Cancel Help improve Google Translate Celebrate Chinese Language Day Help us improve Translate for Chinese شكرا

[@pd1jdw630]

I find the sealants showing after paint , it has something nostalgic . It gives a bit more factory feel. Instead of covering it all up behind paint. But that's my opinion .

[@TheCadillac99]

Thanks for all the uploads

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks for watching Chris

[@stephensallak2059]

I can also attest to the quality and effectiveness of the Amercoat 2 part primer. That's what the Department of the Navy is using for surface ships now. Lots of dissimilar metals and terrible saltwater environments, but it holds up really well.

[@PetesGarage]

+Stephen Sallak So the Navy is as smart as me huh?...lol

[@stephensallak2059]

+Petes Garage I certainly wouldn't go THAT far. maybe they just got lucky and picked a good product.

[@charliehawkes9413]

Hi Pete, I've just finished watching all 11 parts to your Cobra engine build. I found it extremely interesting and I learned a great amount. Thank you for sharing with us your videos. I would love to see what happened next with the Cobra e.g. running the dyno tests, installing the engine into the body and fitting the electrics, cooling system and etc etc. I watched your series all the way from the UK and I vividly enjoyed it. All the best. Charlie.

[@PetesGarage]

Hi Charlie....those videos are coming.

[@stevehodder2605]

Mate very much appreciated with your help buddy

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Steve

[@papagreg534]

Good job Pete!!!👍😁

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks 👍

[@kemarhenderson2657]

these videos are the best ones i ever seen

[@PetesGarage]

That is awesome! Thank you very much

[@guganeshanmahalingam7915]

hi pete ..... great videos .... gathered good knowledge from ur videos...... thanks ... please continue this in the future

[@PetesGarage]

I will continue as long as I am able

[@wasgoodintech]

Beautiful engine

[@mrs_radrod]

That primer is great. I didnt believe you for a second then I saw that Oil Rig orange color. I guess you were serious about how heavy duty that stuff was.

[@PetesGarage]

I really try not to say anything that is not accurate. That is the same primer used on bridges and ocean equipment. It is very high in solids and extremely chemical and weather resistant. Thanks Christiian.

[@mrs_radrod]

***** I'm listening to your video on piston rings and I was wondering what you do for a living. Of course you do engine work but you sound like my Materials Science Teacher talking about the ins and outs of materials and their temperature phases.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Christian. I'm an Engine Assembly and Testing Processes Engineer for GM. Building an engine is more than just putting parts together. Understanding materials and some physics will help you solve many problems.

[@omermahmoud897]

Keep it up!!!!! Very good job and video

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks my friend

[@davenevarez4738]

Love the details.

[@PetesGarage]

Gotta have details

[@genewiley1079]

thank you for video, good job.

[@PetesGarage]

+gene wiley Thanks my friend

[@cassiusclaynyc]

pete you are THE MAN. Noone on yt or on the net shows the quality and attention to detail you show. The end result is just beautiful. I followed your instructional 2 years ago painting a sbc and it came out great. Today I will be painting a jeep 4 liter 6 gloss black eastwood. The machinist already put it in primer any advice would be awesome sir. THANK YOU!

[@PetesGarage]

Wow, that is really cool to hear. I would clean the surface as good as possible with a degreaser....should turn out great!

[@codo7]

Hi Pete. I work in the maritime industry in vessel repair, we have used epoxies for years and the Ameron brand is something we use often. I once was speaking to a clerk who sold epoxies, asking him why folk use polyester resin instead of epoxies when they build fiberglas boats if epoxy is a superior material strengthwise. His answer was that epoxies cure time is much longer than the polyester resin. He also told me that epoxies stick to anything.but not vice-versa. So you could build your boat using polyester to start and finish with the slow curing epoxy for strength. I mention this because you used epoxy for the primer on that Chevy and also a two part for the finish paint. Anyway, it is necessary to make sure the paints are compatible. Thanks for your videos.

[@PetesGarage]

+Don Gamble Absolutely correct. Compatibility and grip strength is important. The primer must have more grip strength than the paint or else when it gets chipped the primer comes off too. That's why I use epoxy primer. It's a metal etch primer. It is very compatible with every paint

[@user-fc3fk1sg7l]

very good thank you sir

[@ecleveland1]

Here's something for you and it's and Eastwood product. Satin Black Hi-Temp Coating Item #10393 Satin Black Hi-Temp Coating It's rated up to 1400 degrees. Made for headers so cool down and heat up with expansion and contraction should not be a problem.

[@PetesGarage]

+ecleveland1 I knew about that paint, I was looking for a 2K ceramic coating like their other engine paints. Thanks for the recommendation

[@Samsgarden]

There's also the different surface textures to contend with. Sand cast vs CNC, or however those heads are produced.

[@chrislazos2832]

Love the videos

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Chris

[@1jpapi]

NICE INFO , GREAT JOB..

[@PetesGarage]

+John Papi Thank you my friend

[@freewayoneentertainment3189]

For cleaning, regular oven cleaner is amazing. It dissolves grease and even old flaking paint like a boss!

[@PetesGarage]

I use that quite a bit, very effective and cheap

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

looks awesome

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks John

[@jamesnjenga8250]

The videos are awesome have learnt alot

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you my friend

[@crisis-cast]

very nice. thank you

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you too!

[@WizzRacing]

Only thing I did different on my last engine rebuild was have the piston crown and combustion chambers ceramic coated. The heads combustion chambers dimpled for even flow. The last one you need a computer to layout the pattern.

[@ijible]

Pete, i would like to hear you talk about the science of N/A and FI performance enhancements. You have a great way of explaining the details! If you've already done this just point me to your playlist.

[@PetesGarage]

That would be a great video. Each had it's benefits. When I get to hooking up the computer and fuel system on the Cobra engine I can talk about that.

[@RobsPackanShine]

ty for ur videos sir

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you my friend

[@heeschenaar0412]

Turned in to a show piece!

[@christopherpatrick2343]

Great 😊

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks 😊

[@caffeintweeker1]

Great Videos, learned a lot! I may have missed it but what ended up happening with the engine?

[@kanezim1135]

NICE ENGINE

[@chrelstongriss]

That's nice I hope mines comes out to be that good

[@PetesGarage]

Take your time and it will

[@905Speed]

subscribed! good video

[@PetesGarage]

Drock Welcome my friend

[@Taterater134]

great video, and nice shirt!

[@PetesGarage]

Magic Man!!!

[@Delton84]

that engine looked very very nice in the end. great job. i was so torn between typical orange or black for my engine. after this video its getting black

[@PetesGarage]

+Delton Crouthers Awesome.....it did look pretty sharp

[@tinor6996]

***** okay sooo honestly i love your videos i'm a tech student and these help me understand alot more, and i know your mainly about "Hotrods" but i'm a Subaru type of person.. do you have any videos on something around that area or... think about possibly doing a future video on something like that?... besides that love the videos, helps a lot, keep up the good job.

[@PetesGarage]

I try to make the videos general enough so they apply to most engines. Subaru should not be that different.

[@firefightergarcia]

it looked awesome before painting I wonder why people want it all color coded. I like the look of shinny new parts

[@PetesGarage]

+w garcia I don't argue with the customer.

[@LuisMorales-xp1zc]

Awsome video man, I learned a lot. I was curious if what you think about the POR 15 products?

[@PetesGarage]

Those are good products. I use them from time to time

[@KevinVarga2002]

Haha I like the shirt Pete!!!

[@PetesGarage]

Shake and Bake!

[@rapidride2]

Nice video. It took one Bad Hombre' to paint those pretty chrome/stainless intake bolts.

[@PetesGarage]

Yeah....but the customer is always right

[@rapidride2]

***** Lol. Nice work. Love your videos. You need your own television show. However I'm thinking you give viewers "more power to the pavement" on youtube. You have a creative way of making your videos highly informative yet easy to understand. Keep up the excellent work!

[@PetesGarage]

I will....thank you my friend

[@potaka79]

Awesome work Pete. When are we going to see that Cobra on the dyno again, would be some interesting numbers i'm sure.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks...I'm getting to it. Work gets in the way of work....lol

[@querty347]

Fantastic Video, so well done. Much appreicated. A couple of small things i do not understand and I couldn't quite see in your video. 1) I have my 302 on a stand cleaning it now but how do you paint an engine on a stand and get to the back of it that is attached to an engine stand? 2) When you tape off the exhaust ports and other areas do you worry about tape residue? Can you just get tape and its residue everywhere and what do you clean it up with after? Thanks Peter

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you. 1) You do not want to paint the back of the engine where it bolts to the transmission. You have to be careful with the spray gun to get around the back. 2) Tape residue is not a huge issue, but lacquer thinner takes it right off.

[@beverley8987]

#1 Ilike your show I did however notice you pointed out dissimilar metals such as the brass and aluminum some how after all that trouble and expense why not use stainless and aluminum maybe I'm paranoid but electrolysis is real I am not being picky it is just one of my pet hates just like your FM thanks for your show the 409 was a good choice I am a chevy fan myself I love cubes the more the happier my 502 create has been great to me thanks again

[@PetesGarage]

Choosing parts and metals is difficult. I agree with you, I try to do the best I can.

[@jonathansanders5165]

Great video Pete, love that your taking out of your time to shed wisdom on us. Hey, I was looking at that Amercoat 385 Primer and it is listed to only handle 170 - 200 degree temps. Any clues how well it has been holding up yet on this motor?

[@PetesGarage]

I've been using it for a long time. It's been bullet proof so far. A high solids epoxy properly applied is really good for closer to 300 degrees. I only apply a very thin film to maximize grip strength. If you put it on very think I can see heat possibly causing a problem.

[@jonathansanders5165]

***** Thanks Pete. On your recommendation, I am ordering the primer and paint you used here to wrap up my rebuild next week. How much of each do you typically go through?

[@ladamadenadie1658]

I'm going to take the time to watch all of these engine building videos and take notes. Maybe I will have the courage to fix my 20 year old F-150 truck since the mechanic fcked up my motor while changing the timing chain.

[@PetesGarage]

You can do it!

[@TEAMPHY6]

How has this engine held up with the epoxy? Could it withstand the heat?

[@gregstorino6744]

Hi Pete, Great video. What kind of paint sprayer did you say you use. I'm looking for a sprayer.

[@PetesGarage]

Hi Greg. You can buy a DeVilbiss Finish Line set that includes a small spray gun. It's great...I use it for many jobs. Eastwood sells the set

[@brianjohnson4301]

HI Pete, I have a garage door that faces the west every year it cracks and peels all the time. We had bought something that was supposed to fill the rougher paint and etch to the metal doors. I'm guessing that a coat of the PPG paint primer and eastwood paint would do the trick....

[@PetesGarage]

+Brian Johnson A strong epoxy primer will definitely help. The sun is killing the paint from expansion of the metal.

[@keitherwin4152]

You would be good to work with thank you for the tips

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Keith

[@dram340]

make a video on tuning an engine after a rebuild it would be very appreciated

[@PetesGarage]

I have plans for something like that.

[@user-fc3fk1sg7l]

I read in an article that they coat inside the cylinder with ceramic to decrease the heat is this correct and is it a paint or put ceramic

[@PetesGarage]

I have never heard of that.

[@aaronbaxter9935]

hay pete see for spark plugs do i need a timing relay for the spark plug to spark for the air to fuel ratio cuz im confused on how they work and what i need for them to work

[@PetesGarage]

Just a distributor and a coil

[@TheMikee2006]

Very cool idea with the aluminum foil. I'll use that on my next paint job. I've always had problems with overspray in bolt holes I usually thread bolts in but I've had paint pull away if u don't cut around them. Any suggestions?

[@PetesGarage]

+Michael Elizondo If you do use a bolt you can cover it with vaseline. The paint won't stick and you can trim around it with an x-acto knife before removing

[@wes2793]

Thanks Pete for great videos, have learned a lot. I am doing a cheap budget 302 build and I am just wire wheeling the block but their is still light surface rust on the metal what would you recommend to do before painting it? Thanks

[@PetesGarage]

+West Coast Wipe it down with a prep solvent or degreaser and paint. There is a rust converter you could spray on first.

[@wes2793]

OK thanks. I just wire wheeled it than gave a good wipe with Varsol.

[@AO-xr8mk]

Great video! Will a NASON DTM Epoxy Primer work too?

[@PetesGarage]

As long as it's a 2 part metal etch, sure

[@TheS3GG]

Hi Pete, I really liked the original metal colors of the engine. I wonder, is there something like a clear cloat with the above specs of the ppg epoxy primer? Great video!

[@PetesGarage]

Sure...there are clear paints. Check out Eastwood

[@briannielsen7176]

Would you paint the engine with the oil filter on? I just figured the oil filter could cover that area really well. It wouldn't matter if you got paint on the oil filter since you'll dispose of it after break in.

[@PetesGarage]

That's a great idea! As long as you can spray behind it

[@codyjurgens8556]

Hey Pete, i've got a question, at 4:26 when you're pointing at the plug there's an open hole right above the freeze plug. What goes there?

[@PetesGarage]

I think that's the engine mount hole

[@natebennett2873]

what paint would you recommend for aluminum cylinder/heads. Ive been inspired by your video to wait my 85cc's motor and swing arm. thank you again for the amazing content.

[@PetesGarage]

+Nate Bennett The Eastwood engine paints work awesome.

[@natebennett2873]

okay. thank you

[@BuzzJones]

Hey Pete, This is for that everyday driver Barracuda I been restoring .I want to Paint my 340 Mopar Engine that "Corporate Blue" which is a light Blue. I don't know what kind of Paint to use for spraying with a Gun , nor do I know what Sealer/Primer to go with, I don't know if I should just use PPG , Dupont or whatever else is out there?

[@PetesGarage]

I prefer the Eastwood ceramic 2K engine paints. They are awesome

[@XWMaster]

Hey Pete, I'm a painter at a body shop and anything I've ever had to spray always has to be sanded or scuffed, but I've never painted a block or anything like it, and I couldn't tell if you had scuffed it all down or anything and was just wondering if it's necessary to do..

[@PetesGarage]

It is always necessary to clean the block or engine with a degreaser. The primer etches into the metal. I've never had one go bad.

[@gavinsherban2691]

Hey Pete, What holes do you have to cover and what holes can you keep open on the engine, can any holes that need bolts not have to be covered

[@PetesGarage]

+Gavin Sherban If there is a hole I know a bolt is going into I will put a tapered silicone plug in it to keep it clean. You can always chase the threads if you get paint in the hole.

[@SteveMartinezpilotman]

Hi Pete, great video on painting. My 16 year old is building a 65 Mustang. We are currently reassembling the 289 Ford we just got back from the machine shop. Do you a video we could watch that could help us build it? We are not experts so we need all the help we could get.

[@PetesGarage]

My whole engine building series on the 351 motor is pretty close to your 289

[@ThatDanDude]

Great job.....I'd prefer more contrast on the black if your going to show it off. Different strokes.

[@PetesGarage]

The customer is always right

[@CFster]

Pete, thanks for the video. Sort of a related question - I've heard that black paint is best for dissipating engine heat. Do you think that's true, and if so how much of a difference do you think it really makes. Also, does the extra step of priming the block negate any of that? And, does painting aluminum heads prevent them from radiating the heat away as effectively as they do? Thanks - CF

[@PetesGarage]

Great questions Colin. I think I can wrap them all up with one answer. The ability of any material to transfer heat is dependent on the density and chemical composition (color is not a factor). I suppose certain colors may have a different specific gravity, but the effect would be negligible. A plastic enamel or urethane is more of an insulator where an epoxy has more solids so the heat can dissipate. I have not read any studies in this regard. Since the coating is relatively thin I do not believe it is significant and probably not measurable. The metal etch primer will help reduce peeling from expansion. Thanks for those questions. I had to really think about that for a bit.

[@Mr.BigweldNBTX]

Great video. Im trying to paint my small block the same color as the car. I was told by someone that I can use the same paint which is not rated for any kind of heat, as long as i use a high heat clear over it. Is this correct? Any advice would help thanks

[@PetesGarage]

+Alejandro Gonzalez If you do use the same color, apply it as thin as possible. Paints that are not temp rated can burn and end up brown looking. A high temp clear over the top will help

[@stevenpeters8237]

hey there brother, sorry if i missed it......but how and what did you use to clean the engine before you painted it? spray degreaser?

[@PetesGarage]

I usually clean by hand with a paint prep or lacquer thinner.

[@jasoncarr4350]

Love the videos Pete!! I'm a Honda Tech. 25 years. Love the technical stuff that you have covered. Can I hang out with you? 716? I'm just south of Rochester...

[@PetesGarage]

That would be cool....as soon as the weather breaks and warms up a bit

[@georgewhyte101]

The datasheet for amercoat 385 says it's only good for up to 93 degrees dry. Any specific reason this will not break down on a 180 degree engine?

[@ihatecountry]

+George Whyte Looks to me like he going to have a lot of dissatisfied customers. Wrong primer type tut tut!!

[@foxtrot789]

And that's one hell of a glossy satin black.

[@SuperChevyman98]

Do you go to j&l for all of your machine work? And do you know how much he charges for nitrous refills? Thanks

[@PetesGarage]

I do go there for 99% of the work I need. I'm not sure but you can call and ask Paul how much he charges 716-684-8971

[@laithalmas8413]

Pete, how do you recommend to break in a brand newly built motor?

[@PetesGarage]

Hydraulic, solid, roller, flat...they're all different. follow what the cam manufacturer recommends and use a good break in oil like Royal Purple.

[@snower13]

"Kids, get out of here, you're in my shot...Thanks for stopping by Pete's Garage" ;)

[@PetesGarage]

When they're hungry they come to the shop and circle me like wolves... I told them to sit and have a beer until I finish the video...lol

[@snower13]

***** Ha! That was my guess. And dad is thinking, "I've been up since 6:30am, you guys roll out of bed at 10am and expect pancakes?"

[@PetesGarage]

Exactly...but this time it was 4 pm and they wanted chicken wings on a Sunday afternoon. Only benefit to living in Buffalo...lol

[@phyllisjoann]

***** hello pete i see you really know your stuff on body work i have a 71 ford maverick 2 door it has alot of rusted out areas would like some advice from you thank you

[@phyllisjoann]

***** oh i see my moms name is on here mines matt just letting you know thank you

[@ryderinblack]

would it make sense to use a heat resistant powder coat instead of a glossy finish in the case of finding minor leaks?

[@PetesGarage]

I don't think that would help leaks

[@ryderinblack]

@@PetesGarage No not stoppin them, finding them haha

[@PetesGarage]

I have powder coated engine parts before