Engine Removal 998 Auto - Classic Mini Workshop Project Tardis Part 8

[@BMCWorkshop]

Great video as always Keith and perfect result with the replacement ram for the engine lift

[@DRW58]

Hi Keith Tardis is looking good nice to see you making some progress. The auto gearbox looks like a significant lump compared with a manual. I wish I had the space you have in your garage, mines now only just got space for my mini but at least / last I’ve got it back only to discover I omitted to put the clutch thrust sleeve in before I bolted the wok on and had someone else fit the engine!!! Now I’m in the process of wok removal with the engine in the car , those bottom bolts are a bugger to reach!!, but I’ll get them. Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave

[@classicminiworkshop]

Cheers Dave. I've made that mistake of leaving out the thrust sleeve before LOL, I think most have at some point.

[@tonywood6332]

Would love to see a slowed down piece by piece engine removal. All the vids are on time lapse. I had a 1984 Auto in 1999, reverse went on it, put a refurbished box in. I remember asking people to help push her back into parking spots lol Good luck bud.

[@dnf1903]

Hiya Keith-just worked out the last time I took an engine out of a Mini was around 1985. You make it look really easy. Can't wait to see progress on Tardis. Keep well.

[@jaggass]

1.0 Mayfair's went up to about 1992 and BL later Austin/Rover only offered the automatic on 1.0 Mini's.

[@leeproudler1342]

Another great video Keith. You can get the genuine engine paint colours from Somerford Mini in Calne. I got a tin of red for my SPi cooper for about £12 and it was good quality paint and applied well.

[@philtucker1224]

Hi Keith, if your pal has to keep the engine hoist outside a fresh lick of paint would also be a nice touch! Real friends are hard to come by these days....stay safe and well buddy.

[@mokeandmadness4273]

Need that insulation on the garage doors. Will help when it starts to get colder.

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks Steve, you just reminded me. I've just been out to measure up!

[@paulrobinson3528]

11:24 just look at that new shiney ram, you just got to paint the rest of the hoist now and make that look nice and shiney lol

[@Car_and_classic_lover]

Another great vid! 👍 the car is coming along nicely

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks 👍

[@martinsgarage2791]

Hi Keith know what you means about the motivation, clocks going back and the rain make it hard. Good to see some progress on Tardis though.

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks 👍

[@simoncarney9944]

Years ago (probably mid seventies) me and a mate took the engine out of his Mini (Mk1) by putting ropes around it with a small scaffold pole through the loop. We then stood on the wings either side and lifted it out! No damage to the wings at all! Good steel then. 😂

[@classicminiworkshop]

I remember doing an engine change with a scaffold pole about 20yrs ago. We were just tall enough to lift over the wings but I remember it being a lot heavier than expected

[@philtucker1224]

Yes, I used the same system back in 1971 with my lovely ‘63 mini 850, had managed to get a perfect MG1100 engine with the remote gear change, twin carbs etc back then I think I paid around £50 complete which was an arm and a leg in those days! (Stay well boys...)

[@tonyaylott4114]

Need to get my head done as well Keith, let us no the the cost, great video as always

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks 👍

[@owencook2332]

Great video, if the seals have gone on the hydraulic jack, force the arm up by hand, and then it should work again... worked for me anyways!

[@classicminiworkshop]

Good tip, although I did try that. The old one would just continuously creep back down

[@scottsuter3451]

Do you think tardis will turn into a sprout where you can’t bare it all not to be bang on?

[@classicminiworkshop]

Hopefully not LOL

[@adammilligan722]

@@classicminiworkshop That's not a "no"...

[@dainius50]

That engine is a BL gold seal engine. I seem to remember that the “seal” engines were replacement engines and the gold seal was the best quality. On the other hand it could have been a less that honest car dealer just paint the engine gold to turn a little more profit!

[@classicminiworkshop]

It’s definitely not a Gold seal engine, it’s the original engine in the original BL paint for a 998

[@dainius50]

Arhh it’s yellow in close up thought it looked gold for farther away

[@classicminiworkshop]

Sorry, just replied to your last comment. The colours might not be as clear on video

[@derekwelburn3520]

Hi I have acquired a 998 automatic without a carb on it would you have any info about what I need for it as info on automatics is very scarce Thanks

[@classicminiworkshop]

The carb should be the same as any other 998 but there will be a kick down linkage on the throttle down to the gearbox

[@derekwelburn3520]

@@classicminiworkshophi thanks for replying I've got the linkage but not sure how it attaches to the carb ,could do with a picture for reference if pos

[@classicminiworkshop]

@@derekwelburn3520 Apologies, I no longer own the car so can't just take a photo

[@markpiper8082]

I took my auto engine out with it jacked up like that was a struggle. I refitted it with the wheels on the floor and it slipped it easier may be worth jacking the back up

[@mk1leg]

Yes auto engines are more difficult done a few swaps for clubmembers lol I do have some yellow if you are intrested

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks, I have some now.

[@1chish]

That yellow is the evil colour BL chose for the A+ 998s. Its a bugger to remove. Moss Motors Europe call it 'Putrid Yellow' but Somerford in Calne have tins of it for £12.90 P/n EPY001.

[@cliveprothero-brooks6384]

i just recently took my A+ auto out and putting it back had the car jacked up all round made it much easier also bought a level bar that you can change the angle going back in but i put the legs of the hoist coming in under the front wheel from the side . i was able to put the engine in complete even with the rad close but possible and the other fittings minus distributor. the worst part the bloody motor mount bolts, and forgetting to hook up the speedo cable doing it after the fact

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks mate

[@davidhaswell1074]

I have more mini Engines than most working for a Leyland Dealer in the 60's. There is an easier way than this. 20 to 25 miniutes removal time. No need to remove the radiator or disconnect the steering hub ball joints.

[@classicminiworkshop]

Thanks, yes I'm sure there are much quicker ways. I'm not working to the clock so not really focused on the time but it would be useful if you can share how you get the driveshafts out the way without removing the ball joints. I know the radiator can stay in place but it's very tight, especially if you are on your own and you dont have a second pair of hands to guide it out.