Engine Removal VW T25 Vanagon 1.9 DG / DJ Wbx Wasser Boxer WaterBoxer

[@bigalsvwratrod7346]

Well done Al. Good to see you left your blooper in !

[@PeoplesCar]

Tx bud. I always try to leave them in unless it's me being a total plonker! 😅

[@stephenhornigold3993]

Yep Looking forward to the next one 👍👍

[@PeoplesCar]

Thanks for watching 😊👍

[@user-gs6qy2qk8k]

Very informative vid, me n the Mrs are going to attempt a engine swap over the weekend 1.9 dg for the same bit scary but seeing your vid I think we will manage

[@PeoplesCar]

Sure you will be fine just take your time and double check everything. Half the fight is just having a go, the other half is getting that stuck pipe off! 😅 Drop me a jingle if stuck with anything. Best of luck 😊👍

[@user-gs6qy2qk8k]

@@PeoplesCar current engine has been in less than a year as sold a bad one so shouldn’t be too bad 🙏

[@deanrobinson3717]

Nice one Al, shite that you found metal, and even worse when bolts snap or don’t do what you want them too

[@PeoplesCar]

Vw life, always likes to throw you a curve ball! 😅 Tx for watching 😊👍

[@benjimelts2951]

Just got my first t3 1.9dg love it. But it needs the love put back him. The old boy runs but abit of white smoke.

[@PeoplesCar]

Love my 25 too, I use it as my daily atm. Weird how an old metal brick can be so good to drive lol. White smoke is usually associated with water/coolant in the combustion chamber and possibly head gasket problems. I hope not as can turn into a nightmare if the studs are in poor and condition the wrong coolant or just water has been used previously. Thay can rot and snap both during use (I lost an engine due to this) or when torquing up the heads when replacing head gaskets. Hopefully it's nothing too serious. Best of luck. 😊👍

[@benjimelts2951]

@PeoplesCar cheers brother we shall see. I know the idiots prior tk me have just used water because it had rust all around the water tank, the one inside the engine bay not the flap.

[@PeoplesCar]

Yeah as you probably saw in this vid previous owner did the same with water. Total minefield buying 2nd hand! Best of luck 😊👍

[@benjimelts2951]

Thanks again, man ✌️

[@stephenhornigold3993]

Informative thanks, I’m dropping my engine and gearbox when it gets warmer and replacing them. Should I drain fuel out as well ? Engine will be from an Audi 80 mk2 1.8 petrol.

[@PeoplesCar]

You mean the fuel in the carb? I didn't. The engine isn't leaned over too far during the removal process for it to become a problem. The fuel lines were both blocked off so fuel couldn't leak from tank. Audi engine sounds cool, something I considered with a bug adaptor kit for the 1600 ct van, but ended getting another van for sensible money instead. Best of luck 😊👍

[@AAA-rd1um]

Do you know where could I find the best breakdown of the engine compartment for de-assembly and assembly? As in.. what all the wires are, what all the hoses are... :D I have couple manuals but I am missing a clear "blueprint" picture to use as a checklist. If you have any other resources that helped you which you could recommend, please let me know! Lot of problems with my T3 and its1.9 DG engine.

[@PeoplesCar]

I'll be honest I don't really refer to much other than a Haynes manual when I need to. Im sure you could asking in T25 groups on Facebook, there is one called Vanagon Help!!! and another Vanagon Technical Respository that maybe useful? There aren't many wires/pipes you have to take off between the van and engine for removal and I cover these in the video. If ever I'm taking an engine apart I'm not familiar with like when I got the Toyota Rav 4 I label each wire or pipe with masking tape and label it. Then take loads of picture to refer back to for reassembly. Best advice I can offer to keep track. Hope that helps. Best of luck 😊👍

[@AAA-rd1um]

@@PeoplesCar Definitely worked! I found a lot of useful pdfs and manuals after commenting too. Thank you for taking the time to write such a comprehensive reply. It's all a bit intimidating, especially when thinking of the possibility of shearing bolts and also having to put it all back together. Phew.

[@PeoplesCar]

@@AAA-rd1um no problem 👍 worst thing for shearing are the head studs holding the head on when the incorrect coolant has been used and they rot inside the water jacket. Then the studs like to strip out the heads that hold the exhaust on due to corrosion. Thankfully neither of these need to be removed to drop the engine. That on on top of the engine in the vid was the first ive had for some time, tho so fingers crossed you will be good. 😊👍

[@AAA-rd1um]

@@PeoplesCar Are you thinking about rebuilding it? If you do, it would be cool to see a video of that. My compression is tolerable but uneven and I know a rebuild is something I will eventually have to consider

[@PeoplesCar]

May be a relatively simple job of new rings and regrind the valves all very DIY able, think that's all was done with mine b4 I bought it and has strong compression. Unfortunately they were heavy handed with the exhaust studs studs and stripped 3 out, total PITA lol. B4 you strip it have you checked your valve settings? Although they should be self adjusting and not need touching as such, I believe they can actually 'tighten' over time and possible just need reseting causing you uneven compression. It doesn't take long I did it in this vid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3mXfWSmr9KdqZosi=9uuojFUrSG-Ra8Jf I've been considering stripping down the broken partially seized previous motor just to see what went wrong (suspect its lost a ring) but fighting for time atm and have so much I wanna do. Somebody must have done this on youtube already?

[@stephenhornigold3993]

Hi How can I test the oil pressure in my wbx petrol 1.9 engine

[@PeoplesCar]

I imagine would need to connect a guage to where the oil pressure switch fits. On my subaru bug I fitted a M/F/F T Piece in line with the stock pressure switch and the after market sender to my pressure guage so had a pressure reading for my tach guage and the original warning light too. Access on the 1.9 is pretty bad tho so may need to get creative if go that route. Other than that I'm not sure how it can be checked. Hope that helps, best of luck 😊👍

[@stephenhornigold3993]

What’s the next step,? Different engine or repair attempts ?

[@PeoplesCar]

I needed it back on the road asap so bought another motor. I've stripped the broken one down to the block and may split it down for another video over winter, not decided yet. I suspect a piston ring may have gone looking at the metal/sound and possible the oil loss was just a red herring although it wouldn't have helped....but won't know till gone digging further. I watched back the bleeding vid the other day and thought to myself..... that doesn't sound right 🤔 so possible was a fault b4 the last trip out and what I thought was a duff exhaust fitment and tappets to adjust was something more serious. Will see. Thanks 😊👍

[@stephenhornigold3993]

@@PeoplesCar ok, that’s what I’ll be doing was it a new one or second hand? Prices vary so much I’m not sure which way to go

[@PeoplesCar]

It's was 2nd hand from a local guy. It was supposed to be fully rebuilt and checked over with excellent compression on all cylinders. Also was supposed to have a replacement water pump & new regrouned valves etc etc. On closer inspection I found exhaust studs missing or hanging out of badly helicoiled holes and the burned Flywheel was the worst I've ever seen needing a re-skim for sure but I didn't have time b4 van engine was needed for VW Action so had to leave it (weirdly the flywheel off the other engine locked it solid when tightened down even though i couldn't see any difference and had the same part number! No idea what's going on there). Thermostat housing was usable but broken. Dip stick tube I need to swap as is mashed up but didn't discover this till was all re-fitted, or that the engine was Flywheel locked! 🙄. Carb looked filthy and was an unknown so reused the one off the other engine I know worked OK. Basically if it was stripped and checked I have serious concerns about the quality of this work in hind sight. Given the information I was told I paid £1200 which I think was 200 quid over the odds than the max I expected to pay. Was looking for something working but untouched in the 700-900 quid range but was short on options with only 3 weeks to sort the van. It is now running well other than an exhaust leak... I suspect where attached to the head when I couldn't crank down the exhaust properly in 2 places due to sloppy re-helicoiled helicoiled stud holes. So not overly happy with it but does seem to be running well fttb. Basically take your time to find the right one, be careful who you trust and what they tell you, I never learn! LOL Mine was listed at 1400 so didn't feel like I could risk a closer inspection on collection and to haggle given my time restraints, that was a mistake. If it comes out again I'm going to leave more time and go non turbo sohc ej22 with it. Best of luck 😊👍

[@PeoplesCar]

​@@stephenhornigold3993 oh I also found the clutch friction plate off the old broken engine, that I was planning to reuse, cracked. The thrust bearing on its last and the fingers of the pressure plate heavily worn because of that, so something to look out for if your planning similar. I ended up replacing the whole thing for peace of mind. I got one of the cheaper ones from CoolAir and seems to be OK atm. If you register on the website and use discount code PEOPLESCAR you will save 5%. I don't get any £ cut back for that in case your wondering, tho hoping to do a better parts discount deal with them for a mention in any relevent vids in future, just to be transparent 😊👍 Have always been my preferred supplier anyway as been good over the years and prefer to support smaller companies where possible. 😊

[@stephenhornigold3993]

@@PeoplesCar thanks chum, great insight on what to look for