Engine Updates, Hercules Boring, Travis L134 Sleeved, Lou's M38, Larry's L134, and More........

As always there is a lot going on in the shop. I have to sleeve the Hercules engine and wanted to show you that one sleeve would do the job. Customer wants entire engine sleeved so after 60 passes with the Van Norman 944 boring bar I am finally finished. .0025 press fit allowed for sleeves.
The L134 that belongs to Travis has been re sleeved. Old sleeves were improperly bored last time and I couldn't save them. Had to open up the bores another .005" or so and tried my best to get the bores in better shape. With a .002 press fit I could almost feel the block expanding, so I did add some adhesive sealer to each sleeve.
Finally have Lou's engine apart and found some good and bad in there. The .030 bores look pretty good and the pistons and rings are in ok shape. The main problem with this engine is the valves, absolute mess. I am going to have to deck the block and head, and do a proper valve job. The valve guides are in tough shape so they will be pulled and new installed.
I was going to get the pistons and rods into Larry's engine today but as I was removing the old pistons more mangled up bolts were found. You have to take you time and be careful when installing piston pin retaining bolts. I find this problem on almost every engine I rebuild, so much so that I ran out of the proper bolts on my last rebuild. More bolts due in tomorrow so I will get back on Larry's Willys L134 engine rebuild soon.
Thanks for watching everyone.

[@robertscranton8293]

Honestly, it is hard for me to believe that anyone that has watched any of your videos would not have the ultimate respect for your opinion. That's how I found my way to this channel. A friend who is into WWII Jeeps told me to come to this channel for instruction.

[@metalshaperJeep]

good to have you watching, MB crank is ready to be ground and the MB block is ready for cleaning and machine work. Other engines are in different stages but lots of info coming on the assembly of them

[@colinross7800]

Your attention to detail and your vast knowledge is impressive.

[@michaeldulaney2497]

Good video Brian. I would take your advice about rebuilding an engine over some shade tree mechanic on a forum. I would like to see when you install the sleeves in the block. Keep up the good work, you put out alot of useful information.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Sleeve install coming soon.

[@juanzayas7719]

Hola Brian…. Good update.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks for watching

[@jordanweinberger4893]

my favorite poster love your work

[@metalshaperJeep]

thanks for always watching

[@larrychristenson5120]

Thanks Brian. Nice work and info. Appreciate the time to make and share the videos.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Gaining on your engine, should be done soon.

[@larrychristenson5120]

@@metalshaperJeep. Is it too late to send the rear engine plate so you can mount the flywheel? It’s been primed.

[@metalshaperJeep]

@@larrychristenson5120 send it along and I will get your flywheel mounted. Please remind me again what color scheme you want on the engine. I think I remember some orange on some parts.

[@LLC-47JC2A]

@@metalshaperJeep I will get the Rear plate coming your way tomorrow. Colors: Block= Black; Intake-Exhaust Manifold= Argent Gray/Silver; Head= Orange; Other Access'y=Black. Thanks

[@davevanatta1965]

i agree leave well enuff alone

[@metalshaperJeep]

My point exactly, removing that much material for sleeves in a good bore is crazy

[@laudennn]

in 30-50 more years no one will have the opportunity to make that mistake @@metalshaperJeep

[@ginacoronel6872]

Good thing that you were able to bore some extra material on Travis' block, to get the hole for the sleeves straight. What would happen if it was crooked and there was no extra room for boring? Would it have to be sleeved and bored 0.010 over to try and make it straight? Trying to figure out what I'd have to do with the AMC 232 I'm working on. Thank you for the update, I see lots of great content coming up!

[@metalshaperJeep]

I am now switching to the SIP machine for boring so I can bore perfectly with the crank centerline. I can straighten a hole, move a hole, etc.... Not so easy to do with the boring bar bolted to the deck surface. I was able to get Travis's block in good shape because I had different sized sleeves and had a bit to bore true. Not sure on your 232, need some details on current size of bores.

[@danmulholland6730]

Perhaps an unanswerable question-when a block has cracks that the machine shop says they can't fix- my situation-where to look for a buildable Fhead block?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Why can't they fix your cracked block? I have a bunch of F head engines here and can check to see if I have a bare block.

[@danmulholland6730]

It has two cracks, involving cylinders 2 and 3, exhaust valve area- the cracks go about an inch from the valve seat on the block top surface, and an equal distance under the valve seat down the pathway for the pushrod. Total guess on my part is that the installation of the valve seats was done in a way that stressed the block. Would appreciate it very much you could check your block supply.

[@garyrobertson3645]

👍👍👍

[@metalshaperJeep]

appreciate you watching

[@jimhoran5445]

👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@metalshaperJeep]

good to hear from you Jim

[@laudennn]

LOL! in 2024 the forums are great, to read chatbots convincing you to spend more money. no wait, it's a 65 year old genius on the other end waiting for your comment replies! he knows everything - his identity is the forum! complete with links to where you can purchase said parts.