3 Big Problems With Direct Injection Engines (Gasoline)

[@johnnyreb86]

Late 90s early 2000s engines were the best. Decent power, not too much plastic, port injection, good fuel economy, and most were ulev so very clean. It’s a shame we massively increased price and complexity and decreased reliability for another 3 mpg.

[@hotchkess846]

Yeah, this is true. Most of the German cars that I've worked on from that era were great in both power and efficiency, yet weren't too overly complicated where you needed to disassemble half the engine to do an AC Compressor. Unfortunately somewhere in the mid to late 2000's engines became increasingly more complex and crammed with more plastic and sensors/electrical components.

[@patricknesbitt4003]

Thank the government for this.

[@Mikebuildss]

Facts

[@Slays_Media]

I think that, inch by inch, we'll get better without sacrificing the spirit of 90's cars. Look at the GR86, for example. It retains and improves upon the driving experience of 90's sport coupes while improving fuel economy a bit. I think cars like that give us hope for the future of petrol.

[@TheRyansLion]

Love my K20 for that reason, it was just before emissions became stricter and so it revs to 8300rpm. VVT, Vtec, Still gets about 27mpg which isn’t bad, and is port injection

[@krism3600]

The engine oil in the wine glasses was a nice touch. Pairs nicely with SAE 5W-Chardonnay

[@CarsSimplified]

I find 20W-XXs to be a fine vintage.

[@dannycalley7777]

Wine Conneisseurs ...............non detergent Beer here !

[@buddyrevell4329]

Excellent!

[@-jimmyjames]

May I suggest cheese appetizer and main course of grapevine smoked salmon with side of broccoli and rice pilaf can substitute w cous cous. Yum yum! engineering brain food

[@anthonys7534]

You will taste notes of pistons with a hint of bearing material. Pairs well with some aged gasket cheese

[@goforitrazz]

As a forty year retired general duty HD mechanic,this video brought me up to speed on the new auto engine problems quickly ,well done👍

[@andali555]

Mazda got GDI right. There's an air/oil separator from factory and they rerouted the coolant in the block to increase temp at the very valve seats, minimizing carbon deposits. Moreover, the Skyactiv design of the headers and other components work together to prevent knock (pre-ignition). Just keep with oil changes and the engine is expected to last 300k+ miles.

[@benca101]

what doesn't Mazda do right? thanks for posting this info.

[@andali555]

@@benca101 yep, sound deadening on the first 3 gens of Mazda 3 😂

[@MalindoWe]

Not all GDI engines are made by Mazda

[@chasl3645]

@@benca101 Well they didn't do my 323 or my 929 very well in fact I'll never buy another Mazda again.

[@andali555]

@@chasl3645 you've had bad luck. I got a Mazda with over 300k miles, got new piston rings and didn't even had to bore the block, meaning it can go another 300k easily.

[@GregSr]

Great video as usual. I used to change the Mobil One oil in my 96 Impala (5.7 liter LT1) every 5,000 miles - like clockwork. Now, I let the oil change monitor in the car tell me when it needs to be changed. The "change oil" light came on yesterday. That means I drove 5,800 miles since the last oil change. Under ideal conditions, the oil monitor allows a max of 7,500 miles between oil changes and reduces that max number based on driving conditions and habits. In my case, I make a lot of short trips so the monitor decreased the max miles by 1,700. The monitor does not actually analyze the oil, but instead it monitors how the oil is used.

[@ericbucher8636]

I usually change in the 25 to 30% range. even then the oil comes out thin and black as coal. If you run it the whole way down it comes out like water.

[@GregSr]

@bacorable That's exactly what I'm doing...Jesus!

[@gravemind6536]

I do it by mileage or time whichever comes first and I am religous about it, it usually gets changed 2 weeks early or 500 miles early because I won't go 1 day or 1 mile over the interval. My car always gets a proper service at the right time with the correct oil. It is also run on premium fuel at all times which I am sure is great deal of help for the engine.

[@peteshea8010]

Your LT1 is port fuel injected and is therefore entirely immune to this problem.

[@davidcaprio8919]

Luckily, I drive diesels, so 10k OCI is no problem. Ok. My DI VW VR6 non turbo was about 7500k, but rarley short trips. No problem. Turbo gasser was 5k and was not DI😯

[@tedferkin]

Only Jason, can make an entire product placement video both interesting and useful.

[@mgmcd1]

Gotta pay the bills. 🤓

[@OxBlitzkriegxO]

it helps that Mobil 1 is smart about it and doesn't try to ram it down your throat the entire time.

[@victorfranca85]

good products im ok with. its when they start slinging crappy products at my face that I cant stand. Only the hot stuff please

[@mrplow3874]

No comma needed, Ted.

[@tim71pos]

I was already using mobile one anyhow. And have been for 30 years. I must say I have yet to get rid of a car because the engine was bad. But it's surprising how many other expensive things can go wrong.

[@TakeDeadAim]

As usual, your videos are very informative and without much "fluff". Very well explained in layman's terms and easy to watch. Others should take note!

[@EngineeringExplained]

Thanks!

[@GeneFever]

@TakeDeadAim Have you seen speedkar99 videos? Takes apart everything and explains how it works, no fluff. A good compliment to EE channel.

[@CarsSimplified]

* Taking Notes *

[@Danger_mouse]

@@EngineeringExplained Jason, in regards to timing chain wear, as a mechanic of some years, the main issue seems to me to be the engineering choices made by the engine manufacturers to use tiny, jewel-like chains and complex curved tension side guides to make the systems quiet. The prevalence of small pitch single row chains on spindly plastic guides would, in my eyes, be the major cause of failure. They just don't have enough margin in them to last. Surely a poorly tuned old school carby engine had at least as much soot in the oil as a modern clean burning DFI

[@markkauffman6184]

@@Danger_mouse I agree 100%. All American V8 engines had a double row timing chain and it was very short by nature. When we see the timing chains used in these overhead cam engines , the timing chain is three times as long and yet it appears to be a single row type.

[@slipp3ryslop3]

Every time I see the white board looking like this at the start of one of Jason's videos I think, "I'm not going to want to sit through all this." Then I look at the clock and it's 10/15/20 minutes later and I'm still glued to the screen. It's hard to fathom the amount of work that must go into making a video like this both informative and captivating, yet somehow he does it time and time again.

[@EngineeringExplained]

This means a lot, truly. And from a creator's standpoint - that first part scares me (the "I'm not going to want to sit through this). KZbin as a platform has certainly evolved, and I with it, but I'm still a one man show and a whiteboard is a really effective tool for the kind of content I like to produce. It's very warming to hear it's appreciated! And yes, there's a lot of time going into a video like this. Numerous discussions with engineering, follow ups, planning the whiteboard out, filming, editing. Even with a simple premise like a whiteboard as an educational tool, it's not nearly as easy as hit record and upload haha. Thanks for your comment!

[@slipp3ryslop3]

@@EngineeringExplained Don't let it scare you! I think everyone interested in logic and physics-based explanations understands that the white board *needs* to look the way it does (and by the way, compared to professors I've had your white board is extremely neat and has great illustrations)...I just sometimes assume I'll lose interest before all of the information is covered, yet I never do. Thank you for all your hard work and for making learning about these concepts consistently fun. :D

[@JK-rv9tp]

Back in ye olden tymes, the 40, 50s and 60s, the common practice with airplanes operating in the Arctic was to dilute the oil with avgas, on purpose, before shutdown. This would get the viscosity down to a level where you could start the engine at -20C without building a fire under it, or having to drain the oil from the engine and keep it indoors overnight (another common practice). Oil dilution systems were common options on airplanes run in the far north. You had a button you'd push for a certain time while idling the engine before you shut it off, which would pump raw gas directly into the oil tank or sump.

[@hotrodray6802]

Invented by a WWII B17 mechanic in England who got in the brig for doing it. Then the AirCorps had them all do it because it worked. When the oil warmed, the gas evaporated.

[@FluxxOG]

The real TIL is in the comments.

[@JK-rv9tp]

@@hotrodray6802 An oil dilution system was first patented in the late 30s (it appears in Google Patents). I'm sure the mechanic story is true, but probably was not the first to do it.

[@jamminwrenches860]

I just watched a p51 mustang video that showed that switch in the cockpit, the narrator didn't explain it's purpose but you just did, thank you!

[@f-j-Services]

Oh yeah International Harvester would call for a quart of kerosene per 5 gallons (I think..) in 10 degree or below weather for better cold starts with the 400 series, such as DT466. Something along the lines of a quart, not much.

[@eighthof8]

Very Very good! We purchased a Ford Edge 2.0 new in 2020. I try to change the oil every 4000 miles with Amsoil 5-30, but usually get around to it by 4500. I sent in 2 oil samples for analysis. Both came back with excess fuel readings. Everything else was optimal, except for the fuel in the oil. This has totally answered my questions, and I appreciate it.

[@PostalTwinkie]

Great! Another video to fuel my existential dread of owning a Flex Ecoboost while living in a small town. Good job! It's why we give it the Italian Tune-up on the regular. Or, as my son called it once, the "Irish Pedal!"

[@TML34]

Italian tune-up is vital! 😂

[@ice44567]

The Ecoboost is pretty solid, just use synthetic oil and change it every 5K and you'll be fine. Some people see 5K as excessive, but for "severe duty", ie lots of short trips, its good practice.

[@tim71pos]

@@ice44567 I get my oil tested every time I change it. I only use mobile one 0 20. This last time I waited 7 months which was only 5,600 miles. The oil test came back from Blackstone with excess gasoline. So from now on I'm going to make sure to change my oil at least three times a year never mind the mileage. I think testing is a good idea with these engines. I have a GDI four cylinder Accord with turbo. I plan to test every time I change the oil but if you wanted to make an economy move you could probably test once a year as long as you were changing the oil three or more times a year.

[@perrytilton5221]

Take mine in the back roads with high loads in 3rd or 4th for about 20 minutes and it brings oil temps 200-230F.

[@timschultes6467]

If you change your oil with good full synthetic regularly the ecoboost is good

[@cabbagekitten]

That was the smoothest oil plug removal I've ever seen from an engineer! Well done

[@EngineeringExplained]

Haha I promise I have plenty of b-roll of it not going that well. 😂

[@rishijai]

The new Nissan VC-Turbo engines [Variable Compression, Turbo, Direct Injection] are just what we need. We can expect both transmission and engine failures now.

[@townhall05446]

More because it's Nissan than high-tech.

[@johnossendorf9979]

@@townhall05446 More because of ringing ever bigger horse power and torque out of ever smaller displacement. That being said, I have no trust in modern Nissan vehicles either.

[@sethjones5250]

In my experience the chain failure on GM ecotec engines tend to be the results of the guides breaking down. These guides are often plastic. In Ford v6 engines it's the water pump bearings. Very rarely do I replace a chain because the chain itself is worn. Usually it's because I'm in there anyway and something else has failed causing timing to be off.

[@Jay-me7gw]

Thats only on Ford's transverse V6's though. The longitudinal V6's, like in the F150, do not have a chain driven water pump. It's driven by the regular belts and yet 1st gen 3.5 Ecoboosts in the F150 still had major issues with chain stretch. The 1st gen had a single long chain that drove both cylinder banks. The 2nd gen(2017+) went to dual chains, one for each bank, that are close to 1/2 the length and therefore are not as sensitive to elongation.

[@adobomix5492]

Seth Jones. I can’t agree with you more. I’ve owned a 2011 GMC Terrain 4cyl ecotec. I’ve always been up to date with my service intervals with regards to the oil changes. At 36k Mi, it needed a new chain. At 75k Mi it would die out in traffic and I got rid of it. At only 55k Mi I found myself doing 2k Mi oil change intervals. The engine would burn 1 quart of oil every month at 1,000 mile use within that month. It’s a crap engine. Faulty piston rings caused oil to burn leading to a faulty maintenance minder reading. If you went by the recommended oil change by the shop or the minder you would have no reading on the stick like me. This in turn caused the chain to slap because the tensioner on this engine works by oil pressure. The ecotecs were made to fail.

[@DragNetJoe]

AFAIK every manufacturer uses plastic chain guides. If they are metal the running surface is still some kind of plastic or teflon insert.

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

I had a 2016 1.6d made by GM. It started chain rattle at 30.000 miles and this was indeed the plastic guides breaking off of the metal they were moulded onto. The reason, i was told, was the chain tensioner was weak and at startup it would take a few seconds for it to tension. This meant that the chain would be able to "slap" the plastic, and this made it fail. That engine was dubbed "Whisper Diesel" because it was supposed to be extra quiet, but it did not take long before people online, renamed it the "Rattle Diesel". To change the tensioner, chain and guides, they needed to take the engine out of the car and split the engine from the gearbox. Price for this repair was quited by a GM workshop here to be "No less than $2500"... That problem and a few others made me lose faith in the car completely, i sold it to a GM dealer and bought an EV instead, i dont want to have to contend with expensive engine problems. PS. Yes when it started the car was in warranty, but i, and others were told by GM that this was just an "Engine characteristic" and not to worry. When the warranty ran out, they found out it was a problem (Engines started "exploding") i talked to them again and they agreed i should get that car fixed, but now it was out of warranty so i would have to pay out of pocket. If you wonder then.....Yes, i am NEVER buying a GM vehicle ever again.

[@PaulThomas-qo9vy]

Your description of GDI engines features & problems was spot on! I was privileged to be a lead auro research technician for several years, in LSPI phenomenon consortium studies at SwRI. The 2.0L GM LHU Turbo GDI engine was my assignment at that time. What a sturdy engine for that test matrix. The pistons had a hollow donut ring under the combustion face & was oil squirter cooled (like some diesels,) evenly cooled as the oil traveled thru the donut, & cooled piston top equals a stronger, LSPI resistant piston. I operated these engines for hundreds of hrs., heard thousands of LSPI's, watched amazing cyl. pressure traces (LSPI spikes), and the LHU would hold up amazingly well. Yes, you mentioned the oil additive that grossly exacerbated LSPI's (the engine sounded like a popcorn machine!) Without the additive, the engine might run for hrs. totally quiet! I love your show, great dissertation & nice learning experience! Thanks!

[@fhd3715]

A few really easy tips to keep your GDI engine healthy, based on the information in this video: 1. Try to limit your amount of short trips 2. Don't floor the car when you are on low RPM 3. Rev it up once in a while when it's on operating temperature 4. Change the oil regularly and use the correct oil (this is a recommended for every car, but even more so for GDI engines)

[@annoyedok321]

So cynicism towards 10,000 mile oil change recommendations might be founded.

[@briangeiger9307]

Nope, you didn't quite ace the final exam. Need to look for "API SP" or "ILSAC GF-6A" on your oil to prevent chain wear at 5:35.

[@fhd3715]

@@briangeiger9307 That's a more specific description of my 'use the correct oil' remark

[@bogusphone8000]

Ahh, so a rotary then.

[@spacebound1969]

@@bobdevreeze4741 Weird that others seem to have success but not you 🤔

[@chriss526]

Great video! I once had a 2008 MINI Cooper S (1.6 DI turbo) and over the course of 60k miles of ownership experienced both carbon issues and timing chain issues. During my ownership, I had severe valve carbon issues that I ended up remedying myself by walnut shell blasting…..and also had the timing chain replaced THREE TIMES through factory warranty. Until now, I really had no idea that both issues were related….interesting!

[@WolfmanZX]

😳 wow. Those minis are garbage

[@OxBlitzkriegxO]

@@WolfmanZX no, just a driver that doesnt drive the car hard enough or change the oil under the severe service interval.

[@treyt6474]

I wonder if this is why the wrx sti still uses port injection

[@smoke05s]

@@OxBlitzkriegxO Agreed, just cut the oil change interval in half and use it on longer trips and you avoid most of the problems on this video.

[@PeterFeltersnatch852]

@@smoke05s or just install a catch can

[@chad8329]

The DI chain stretch is also caused by the added stress of running a camshaft driven high pressure fuel pump.

[@chippyjohn1]

High quality silent chains dont use a single pin either, they use a split pin that is much better.

[@dudeman1455]

I bought a 2021 Toyota Tundra specifically to retain that bullet proof 5.7L V8 engine mated with the also bullet proof 6-speed transmission. Port injection only, engine has lower pressures, doesn’t work that hard since it is so powerful. Low fuel mileage, but I make that back from never having to spend money at a mechanics, and not having to purchase another vehicle (since this one lasts for 400,000 miles if you take care of it). And it’s awesome having an old school pickup with a V8 rumble!

[@adamhayden5152]

I bought my first turbo gdi car this year. I like the car it makes great power and is the quickest car I’ve owned. I’m the kinda guy who doesn’t like to leave things stock. I bought six fueling system for the car so along with DI it also has two injectors at the throttle body that run off the maf. I can program when I want them to spray through hp tuners. My next part is Tracy Lewis catch can to completely eliminate lspi.

[@chrisfix]

Awesome video Jason! Can letting your car idle after a short trip turn it into a "long trip" or does the car need to actually be driven?

[@IJMacfarlane]

I would think you'd actually need to drive it. The goal is to get the oil up to operating temp (let's say 200 *F or so) to evaporate the fuel and moisture, and idling after a short trip is unlikely to get it there, particularly in the cold weather.

[@WillHasManyHobbies]

@@IJMacfarlane but the engine runs hotter when you're sitting in traffic which is the same as a car idling. I would think that might help instead of driving the car at highway speeds which would cool the engine because of the air passing through the radiator. I currently have a car that overheats if it sits still too long.

[@tim71pos]

@@WillHasManyHobbies well it is something like this. When you are idling you don't have abundant air coming in over the cooling system so parts of the engine heat up. But at the same time the engine is not engaged. It is not doing any work. When the engine is doing the work of making you go forward it requires more energy to push against the Pistons. Therefore the combustion in the engine when the car is running it is at higher pressure than when it is idling. When you are idling you can get a higher engine temperature because of the lack of cooling not because of the reduced pressures in the cylinders. The reduced pressure in the cylinder means the ignition occurs under lower pressure and therefore there are more pollutants in the exhaust. Specifically more unburned fuel. That's why for decades air quality measures have targeted reducing idling emissions. Your engine can be at a higher temp because the cooling isn't working as well and at the same time not burning the fuel as efficiently. That would lead to build up of fuel in the oil particularly on GDI engine. So driving, rather than idling, is the ticket burning gasoline that is built up in the oil. Yes, when you are driving at high speeds the cooling system is working more efficiently. But in order to generate those speeds higher pressures and therefore higher temperatures in the actual combustion chambers are required. And that leads to a more efficient burn and reduces gasoline in the oil.

[@tohloc]

@@tim71pos if my temp gauge centers that’s up to temp. So say I run my truck at 70 mph for 10 minutes 4 times a week I’m clear of gasoline buildup in my oil?

[@robertholderman7552]

OKAY people you’re ready for It ??? Simply get a diesel engine block heater put it in your gasoline engine and make sure it’s up to temperature before you go on your short trip !!!! No joke .. this is an option he did not discuss .. .. GOD BLESS ALL !! …. This means you plug it into 120 V power supply .. This also means you have a certified technician install the block heater and make sure it has a thermal switch on it that shuts it off when it gets up to temperature !!! … Again GOD BLESS

[@Assimilator1]

Well I learnt something new today! I was aware of the soot build up problem on the inlet valve, but I didn't know that GDIs tended to put more soot into the oil in the 1st place, and I didn't know that could be such a problem for timing chains! I work at a Suzuki dealer, we've noticed that the GDi engines generally have much darker oil when drained, I thought it was mostly related to them being turbo'd engines, now I know better! And Suzuki increasing the service interval from 9000 to 12,500 miles for the Booster Jets (their name for turbo'd GDi, lol) seems an even worse idea now! But, so far, no timing chain issues, although the oldest engines are only from late 2015 (at least here in the UK) and they're the ones on a 9k service interval. We've not seen any of those reach high mileage yet though.....

[@EngineeringExplained]

Thanks for sharing your experience, interesting!

[@zenden6564]

Also as mentioned in a previous Eng.Explained vid., the max. internal temperature of a N.A. engine is ~200`C compared to a turbo's engine's 400`C. This much higher temperature also can compound with the specific GDI problems (e.g., making the soot in suspension more abrasive) and adds weight to the argument around more frequent oil changes than the +10,000miles.

[@Assimilator1]

@@zenden6564 And would probably increase soot oil load via more carbonising of the oil, as well as likely more piston blow by from higher combustion pressures.

[@e1cabral]

Also because because the stratified injection for low load and low speed. The mixture is bad and builds up soot like Diesel engine. It's why they have to use GPF no?

[@AlphaCharlieFour]

Some engines now come with port injectors, as well as direct injection. I'm curious to know if you feel this is to address these issues or the build up on the valves.

[@freeride202]

Yes, but also to reduce soot emissions out the tailpipe. Direct injection gas engines emit up to 200 times more soot than modern diesel engines. Manufacturers like VW were looking at particulate filters for their GDI engines.

[@nickolastiguan]

@asutin Grubbs best of both world

[@votekyle3000]

My Lexus RX350 has this. You can definitely hear the GDI injectors popping on cold days, but it’s significantly quieter than pure GDI engines I’ve driven. Edit: okay I’ve looked at a cross section of their design, the buildup on the intake valves in GDI is because there’s not gasoline flowing over them to clean them. The Toyota engine shouldn’t have this because of the port injectors inserting fuel into the intake side, so it should stay comparatively clean.

[@afcgeo882]

In DI/PI engines, port injectors are used at start-up and at low RPMs when efficiency isn’t needed, switching over to direct injection at higher RPMs to produce more power. This not only reduces carbon build-up on intakes by pouring gasoline on them, but also ensures that direct injection isn’t used at low temperatures. That reduces unburned fuel (soot) and oil dilution. The trade-off is that these engines are quite a bit more complex in fuel injection and pumps, but also in timing and programming.

[@colty7764]

Complexity can be a problem later (complex systems break down if not properly maintained).. So keeping up with oil change intervals (full synthetic always), avoid a lot of short trips. Keeping engine clean and free of carbon buildup (carbon is a great insulator and has a high heat storing capacity.. heat accelerates oxidation exponentially). I wold use a PEA based fuel cleaner periodically (2 or 3 times a year at least) to prevent carbon buildup on piston tops, port intakes, etc.

[@leepower2717]

I've owned 1 x small capacity direct injection turbocharged engine, never again - intake valves required carbon cleaning at 34k miles which eventually the vehicle manufacturer paid to repair. Traded it in & got a Toyota hybrid fitted with D - 4S, direct & port fuel injection so best of both worlds, no turbocharger & 2 litre capacity.

[@Markycarandbikestuff]

Having the injector issue right now with my Alfa Romeo 159, it has the 1750 Turbo engine, car has not been running 100% for a while, EML came on the other day, smell of fuel in the oil (oil was changed 1 year and 4K miles ago), issues all pointing to dirty, blocked injectors, have pulled the injectors out and sent them off for testing/cleaning. I was a mechanic back in the 90's but new car tech has passed me by, thought direct injection was only a diesel thing, this channel is very educational, i do lots of short trips (work is only 5 miles away) but from now will try and give the car a longer blast now and then, also frequent (yearly) oil changes despite the low annual miles, also going to run a fuel system cleaner through it once a year.

[@robertlane4432]

Seafoam it. !

[@ShortThrowShifting]

A huge issue with the previous gen VW/Audi 2.0 TSI engines, aside from carbon fouling on the intake ports and valves, was that soot you mentioned clogging the ultra fine mesh filters that preceeded the balance shaft. It was not uncommon for the balance shaft to tear it's bearings apart and subsequently send material into the oil pan, straight into the pickup and into the crank bearings. Those engines are notorious for destroying themselves in 100 000 - 150 000km if you stick to the factory 16 000km interval. That being said... I've seen one that did that, and lasted another 200 000km with regular 6000km oil changes before the crank journal bearings finally gave up.

[@crxdelsolsir]

More or Less as planned by the manufacturer. Service intervals calculated at elevated wear rates to failure. These calculations can be made and are being made all the time especially in Formula 1 However, the majority of people that are NOT in the know but thinks they are or have self interest vested in the early failure spread the misinformation hiding the trend of shorter life cycles and designed or planned obsolescence.

[@GF-mf7ml]

Yes the car will less efficient than a 20 years old NA engine.

[@1989rs500]

Fords i3,i6 turbos too are in same ball park.. Most f em good for 1,00,000 to 2,00,000 kms, after than junk

[@lukekilah6257]

500k Vw mkV golf tsi engine. Everything engine original. Installed water methanol injection kit at 30k. Smallest 50cc nozzle. Vehicle is strong and zero carbon build up.

[@1989rs500]

@@lukekilah6257 German engineering at its finest

[@bbhrdzaz]

It seems we have always had the cold start issue, with carbs, TBI, Port I and now DI. All require extra fuel when cold, so I don't believe this is DI specific. However, I think this is a greater issue with hybrid vehicles where the engines may not get to a warm temperature when switching between battery and combustion power for short hauls.

[@someweeb3650]

With a hybrid they 200% engineered for it. I don't know how hybrid cooling systems work so this is a big if, but if they use the same radiators and cooling system then that electric motor and batteries will heat up the engine while running.

[@Skubasteph]

yeah but port injection or a carb dont spray the oil off the cylinder wall. im really not a fan of DI with out port injection also

[@billsmith2212]

My 1989 Chevy Van , TBI , 5.0 L had 199 K when the transmission went . It never had a check engine light and ran well when cold . But that was a very basic system with a single wire O2 sensor that I replaced at 125 K as a maintenance item . It had to be warmed up to pass inspection . I don't see many of these over engineered motors giving longevity . There is just too much to break . There are gains in emissions , torque , mileage , etc. but they require expensive repairs . Your best insurance is conservative oil changes with the best oil - like he recommends .

[@nismo2070]

My daughters 18 year old Prius uses a heat storage tank in the cooling system to keep the coolant hot for long periods of time. It has a vacuum isolated coolant tank.

[@furiousfred4934]

They all do need more fuel when cold, true. But the massive downside causing oil-dilution is the direct injection itself. When your engine is cold you have wider ring-gaps and therefore more blowby. With a port-injected engine that is not that big of a deal. But with a direct-injected engine that hightened blowby causes fuel to be pushed down into the crank-case and dilute the oil. And with the coldstart-enritchment this effect is more prominent.

[@BadAssEngineering]

Excellent info as always. These gave me ideas on How to "Fix" these 3 problems: 1.- Change Your Oil in Shorter Intervals *wink wink mobil 1* 2.- Drive it Like You Stole it so Engine Oil Gets Hot 3.- Try not to Go Full Throttle unless after 3,000 RPMs

[@07wrxtr1]

Yup!! I live by a few of the national parks, so I'm regularly on the side of the road taking photos... and you can hear vehicle after vehicle just pinging away as we're at elevation... The other comical thing are the automatic transmissions... on/off/on/off the gas, taking 115 years to simply select a lower gear/higher rpm, so you hear them just pinging away.... even more comical than that, you can actually tell which direction the driver is looking by listening to the sound of the vehicle. So if they see YOU taking photos, the FOMO hits them, and you'll hear the pitch change and let off the gas from their vehicles.... this is in Arches nat park by the way.... even better than that: if they don't see what/why you're pulled over for, it's not an immediate photo opportunity for their instagram account, then, they make up for the 1.3 seconds they let off the gas, by increasing throttle position so much, that they effectively just wasted even more gas on the perception that somehow they lost time by slowing down, when, in reality, if they would have just chosen a specific gear and a constant speed, they would have been able to accurately observe what was being photographed AND, not lost any time through this whole ON/OFF upshift/downshift miscalculation and confusion dynamic.... It's difficult to describe, but, when you're out there almost daily, minding your own business and setting up for photographs waiting for the light, you get to hear this take place over and over.... My fave part about the entire experience: These people will SPEED right past you like "WTF is that guy pulled over for, there's no photo there...." then, fast forward around 37 minutes: "I want to NOW park there, but there's no room!?!? and I'm MISSING the sunset now!! whaaaa whaaa whaaaa".... I'm sitting there thinking: "Welp, all you had to do was NOT speed, and you would have NOTICED a perfect composition along with the sunset happening, but, you were too busy driving with tunnel vision like a zombie: MUST go to the windows, must go to bucketlist spot..." So I watch all these people "on vacation" supposedly the time where one is to "enjoy the journey" but, they don't actually enjoy the journey. They have a preconceived checklist/bucketlist (why can't liberals ban those words?) and they miss out on unique photos, and overall enjoyment. It's like they've decided they want to see 115 things in 22 minutes, but be miserable in the process Vs. seeing maybe 6 things, and bring home some unique and meaningful experiences.... so "vacationing" is like a "job"... it's hilarious, and all these SUV's with 4-cylinders just struggling is beyond comical... so they get 1-3 mpg better supposedly, but it's nullified because of the fact that they cannot choose the correct gear needed, thus creating all of this constant upshift / downshift inefficiencies that dont' take place until throttle positions are over applied, thus the 1-3mpg they "thought" they were gaining by getting "just" the 4 cylinder is nullified... but, people will buy them because "feelings" and "emotions" have told them that they're saving the planet, but really, they're just scammed into higher maint intervals and higher propensity for turbo related issues to come up (actuators, overboost, bad tunes, bad gas, turbo oil seals, etc).... Other than that: I have no opinion.

[@dzenan.m]

@@07wrxtr1 Wtf are you on about ranting here, I want 2minutes of my life back

[@overthemountain1009]

@@07wrxtr1 I hear ya, but i bet a majority of those drivers that you are "hearing" don't know any better to simply push that over drive button or down shift manually, plus there are so many people using the cheapest fuel they can get, which can also cause pinging.

[@johnfranklin5277]

Disagree with driving like you stole it..assuming your 0 wt 20, is now 0 wt 10, or less, high rpms with oil that has barely more viscosity than water, will be extremely bad for rod bearings, along with everything else.

[@Starman-yt8lj]

Thanks Jason for clarifying timing chain “stretch”. I never really understood how that occurred until today.

[@gidderman]

Here we are, I am about 20 years into my automotive career at this point. These days I am seeing quite an increase in engine failures. Even though there has been a plethera of poor designs to account for this, it 'more often than not' has to do with the owners lack of care and/or understanding overall, in the larger scheme of things. Peoples bad habits are about the same over this period (the general populus has always been horrible at getting their oil changed on time), but more of the failures these days are because modern engines simply cant handle going too far over milage for thier oil changes due to the complex internal designs. In the past engines were simple and could usually take ALOT of abuse, such as going over your oil change interval by 3x the milage. However new engines with SO MANY components especially in the valve train are especially sensative to dirty oil. Since peoples bad habits and horrible maitenance practices are about the same, there is a massive amount of failure due to lack of maitenance. The same applies to drivetrain service, -i cannnot tell you how many people dont even "know" that there is oil in the diff's and transfercase, transmission, etc that MUST be changed on a regular cycle. Mix this with the manufacturers willingness to try and convince people that drivetrain oils are "Lifetime fill" (which is a load of BS btw) and increased OCI recommendation, along with harsh environments like where i live,. aaand let me tell you the amount of needlessly broken stuff we see would stagger you.

[@kaedeschulz5422]

Ppl not taking care and manufacturer's with their "longlife" blaaa blaaa intervals or "life time fill" just kills stuff.

[@timjohnun4297]

Oh, I believe you! I'm a mechanic and probably one of the worst offenders lol

[@davidspiteri33]

Completely agree

[@mchipelo]

Just to mention, in Europe the downsizing was more from 1.8/1.6L to 1.0 Turbo. From 4 to 3 cylinders. Having driven both, the new ones are far nicer to drive (low end torque, thanks to those turbo's) but resilience to abuse is lower... specially lack of maintenance..

[@coryernewein]

I've seen more gdi engines wrecked in the last 5 years that I can shake a stick at. People are lazy and often mistreat engines based on manufacturer directions. I don't know if this is a sure thing, but generally if you contaminate oil (even if you evaporate off the gas) it doesn't work as well as oil that just has mileage on it. I've worked on cars, trucks, semi's, tractors and heavy equipment for over 30 years and I can tell you that simple is best when it comes to the average person, sure some folks actually maintain their stuff but most folks think companies are in it to provide them with a product not that their main goal is to make money...and if it happens at the hands of planned obsolescence than so be it.

[@ricsegreto4107]

That's why I bought a 2020 Corolla SE. It's like a fire and forget missile. Just a regular oil change, a regular fuel grade. Low maintenance cost, no headache.

[@spacebound1969]

"Wah! I want improved fuel economy and more power but refuse to change my oil on time or take care of my engine. How dare these evil dirty manufacturers "plan" the obselence of my car?"

[@glenwaldrop8166]

First failure of maintaining and engine is going by the oil light to change it. If you change the oil at regular intervals you're fine, if you wait until the light tells you to change the oil you're gonna have issues.

[@coryernewein]

@@glenwaldrop8166 for sure, I run synthetic high mileage that is supposed to be good for 10,000 miles but I can't bear to think of sludge building up🥴

[@coryernewein]

@@spacebound1969 I used see grease fittings, and now it's all sealed balljoints and bushings that require costly part changes. I wish I could a benefit with some of the engineering choices but other than money it's kinda hard. Sure people would skip out on their service intervals and mess up parts but a ball joint change was simpler and cheaper than a whole control arm by far😪

[@JustinBone]

I drive an Audi TT RS, it's quite possible a perfect example of engines talked about in this video. Small displacement (2.5L over 5 cylinders), with lots of power, torque, and boost pressure. 18.1 PSI as early on as 1,700 RPM. Peak torque (343) from the same to 5.4K, peak power (360) from 5.4-6.8k. I'm now going to make sure no matter what I buy API certified oil. Especially as my goals for the car are around 500 HP/TQ on a similar power band, at higher PSI, with pump gas. Always informative, Jason.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Endless money pit car in countries where people don't know how to repair them right.

[@JustinBone]

@@BubblesTheCat1 I don’t know where you’re getting that from, but if Audi/VW does one thing right, it’s five cylinder engines. People often see well passed 300k miles of engine life even with track use and heavily modified, with nothing but typical maintenance. Mine is as 72k miles and needed nothing but standard maintenance.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@JustinBone Are you from Germany?

[@JustinBone]

@@BubblesTheCat1 The US

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@JustinBone 😊👍

[@wngimageanddesign9546]

I'm so glad I forego such headaches with my old and simpler and way more reliable Honda Accord with PGM fuel injection. No mass airflow sensors either. More reliable than a Swiss watch.

[@jessev2197]

Good job! Well explained. I love Mobil1. Used it since the marketing push back in the early 80s. I worked at an Exxon and Mobil station. Every engine I've looked into that ran Mobil 1 all the time, were always spotless.

[@ldnwholesale8552]

Synthetics in general all seem to be very good. Though still needs regular changes. I generally do mine every years or 10000 km.

[@dwaynemadsen964]

I am glad I watched this. I was expecting or maybe hoping for a discussion on the type of emissions GDI produces compared to port injection, and the effects on overall pollution, but this was informative and made me ask questions I hadn't even thought about before and seek out their answers! Learning! Stay safe.

[@blueridge8992]

VA WRX owner and I had to spend $400 mitigating all the downsides of DI before I even installed an intake and exhaust. Wish my FA20 had dual injection.

[@leonardkellum6984]

What did you get? My Dad was born in Weems, on the Rappahannock River. I have a WRX.

[@nthgth]

VA STI here. The EJ of course has its known problem areas but at least I won't have to worry about DI stuff until (probably) my next car. Funnily enough, I think our two different engines' potential problems have similar solutions

[@rickhibdon11]

I find it strange that in the quest for cleaner, stronger engines, we now have increased oil dilution and carbon fouling. Seems like it wasn't really well thought out

[@jordanmackay6746]

Yeah we should stop wasting our time with barbaric gasoline and focus on electricity

[@kinghados]

@@jordanmackay6746 electric estrogen cars, which super expensive batteries

[@CarefreeRambler]

@@jordanmackay6746 rare Earth minerals depletion...

[@bcubed72]

@@jordanmackay6746 If EVs are as great as pundits claim, we don't have to do a damn thing. Just sit back and let the Invisible Hand of the marketplace TCB. After all, nobody had to regulate out horses, now did they? Wanting EV mandates is a tacit admission that EVs aren't "all that."

[@theglowcloud2215]

@@bcubed72 it doesn't really matter at this point whether or not EVs replace internal combustion, wholesale. The mining, extraction, and burning of fossil fuels has already set us on an irrevocable course. Hope an unlivable planet was worth burning those V8s!

[@zstrode.8953]

I got into this right after high school went to college and got in the field and there is a never ending about this knowledge as the years go by!

[@blueyhis.zarsoff1147]

Filter the soot with a bypass filter, common on large diesels, its really keeps the oil clean and the wear down

[@timjohnun4297]

Exactly what I was thinking, an easy routine to just replace that filter at regular intervals, and won't block up and reduce oil pressure. A clever manufacturer could even make a filter similar to a DPF and burn the soot off

[@derekhobbs1102]

Clever and DPF should never be together.

[@timjohnun4297]

@@derekhobbs1102 point taken 🤣

[@TheMajictech]

Umm, a bypass oil filter plugging will NEVER reduce oil pressure. The key word here is BYPASS l. Apparently you don’t know how they are plumbed.

[@lancelot1953]

Hi Jason, would it be possible for you or one of your viewers to make a spreadsheet of your video productions by subject and/or topics. Your productions are excellent and very useful to young engineering students (and older engineers such as yours truly) to illustrate, complement, and/or supplement what they learn/we teach in engineering classes. Your videos are an outstanding resource for our students as they present "real-life" scenarios and uses of the theory they learn in the classroom. Thank you, Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineering, retired)

[@anthonyfransen5218]

one of the most important thing i've learned about engines is that taking very good care of your oil is basically the best thing you can do for engine life, also just not pushing it while cold

[@gravemind6536]

I do both those things and run exclusively on premium fuel and my god you wouldn't believe the difference premium makes especially on a modern engine like a GDI.

[@gillianorley]

I have an Acura ILX and a Honda Ridgeline both with direct injection, but neither are turbocharged. In fact, I specifically settled on the Acura ILX because it seemed to be nearly impossible to find a NON-turbocharged engine in a small or even standard sized sedan these days. My previous car was a Honda Accord with a V-6 engine , but they stopped offering them years ago and now they are all turbocharged 4 cylinders. Very annoying. Ironically, my Honda Ridgeline has, basically, the same Honda V-6 engine that my Accord had, but with direct injection. I’m hoping having non-turbocharged engines will help me to avoid some of the problems of direct injection engines, but this video is very helpful pointing out issues I was unaware of such as the problems caused by “short trip” driving. Unfortunately, there’s not really much one can do about it if one’s driving requirements involve mostly short trips. But it’s good to be aware of the issue. I guess I could drive around in circles to make my trips longer. 😉

[@808bigisland]

Running an unopened Chevy I6 in my daily truck...dating to 1927. Smooth, quiet, powerful and revs to 5000. Put a Weber two barrel and a big air filter on for driveability and fuel savings. Cheap oil and big external full flow filter. No PCV system. Crankcase vents to street. The engine cover has vents. The oil stays golden for 3000 miles. No sludge and no glitter in oil after 450000 miles. The engine pulls hard in my tropical boat towing, desert, jungle, sand, volcano environment. Modern cars here last 3-5 years..complicated German boutique automotivetry 6 months to 1 year.

[@alexlandsberger1423]

I agree I have a 85 d150 with a slant probably has 300k miles on it and I get almost 20 mpg and I paid $1200 for it lol

[@808bigisland]

@@alexlandsberger1423 rare truck nowadays.

[@nthgth]

But no one gets to financially exploit people using efficient designs like this, and we can't have that.

[@djolecar88]

In other words, think twice before buying a high mileage chain-driven direct-injection engine, especially a turbocharged one.

[@MattBrownbill]

And don't get a diesel with a DPF. Even worse.

[@nn843]

@@MattBrownbill diesel engines are dead, m8. From now on you will only see diesel engines on trucks and ships

[@MattBrownbill]

@@nn843 I know, mine is dying as fast as it can....

[@klyplays]

Good thing vq are probably not DI.

[@colelockridge5816]

Well. If you do just get one with constant oil changes and highway miles. Kinda same principle of buying any other car just more important

[@Squat5000]

That's why I have bypass depth filtration. It extended the life of my timing chain well over a hundred thousand miles. Combined with Amsoil the service life and testing has been amazing. About 30% better than Mobil 1 based on the hundreds of dollars of testing I have find. Combine that with a pcv separator and the intake ports have been very clean. Life has been long and performance has been great.

[@saganworshipper6062]

I'm making the switch to Amsoil on my next oil change. I have a BMW 328xi port injected N52 that I've been running Liqui Moly in but I think Amsoil is the best stuff out there now.

[@Sticknmove77]

PCV separator? Is that a catch can?

[@ksamos]

@@saganworshipper6062 you will be very happy with Amsoil. I would recommend using their engine oil flush before you drain your old oil. Ideal for 15 mins and it will clean all the crud out of your engine. Then use their Signature Series oil and you will notice an improvement in how smooth it runs. Yes, it is more expensive up front. The savings comes from extended oil changes (up to 25K miles) depending on your driving use and extended engine life. Lots of city driving: 15K change. Lots of highway driving: up to 25K. Be sure to use their EA oil filter for max protection. All the best to you.

[@highbrass7563]

I drive a 1994 Pontiac Sunbird coupe and a 1997 pontiac sunfire coupe. Those are paires with the 3 speed transaxles and respectively the Brazilian Made 2.0L SOHC and the American made 2.2 OHV LN2. Both are ultra reliable four cylinder engines. The 2.0 engine is significantly smoother and has quite a bit of torque despite having no power. The 2.0 Has a timing belt which is one drawback, the factory belt is still on the car. The Sunfire has the 2.2L. You cant really get more simple than a 2.2L OHV four cylinder. These engines are equipped with timing chains and boast great reliability. They feel anemic on the road, buzzy, low revving and are sometimes prone to burn a bit of oil. But if you want top notch reliability. General motors had this figured out in the 1990s. Cheers all thanks for reading.

[@claytonroot806]

It's about time somebody revealed all the disadvantages of downsizing, turbocharging, and direct injection. It makes me all the more pleased that I recently purchased a vehicle that is a modern marvel of simplicity. That would be a Kia Rio to be used as a small occasional runabout for our 2nd vehicle; the other being a somewhat larger Plug-In-Hybrid. That plug-in-hybrid's engine hardly ever runs to meet our daily needs and when it does run, it will almost always being on a longer trip where it is totally warmed up. Why I love the Rio? It has no Turbocharger. It doesn't have Direct Injection yet still achieves Excellent fuel economy. It has 15" wheels and tires which are cheap to replace and offer superior ride quality due to taller & thus shock absorbing sidewalls. AND it has Drum Brakes on the rear which are ideal for the Salt Laden Winter conditions where I live which causes rear disc brakes to corrode away long before they actually wear out. With 70% of braking being carried out by the front wheels anyway, that is a trade-off I'm happy to make. NOT EVERY VEHICLE has to be some marvel of technological prowess to be a plausible transportation device!

[@Ichibuns]

Fuel dilution is a big problem. Whenever I emptied my catch can, it seemed like it was mostly fuel. The gas smell was strong. I worked down the street but just far enough away where walking wasn't practical. During winter, the engine may not have even reached operating temperature. I was doing oil changes every 2000 miles or every 2 months (whichever came first). It was worst case scenario for an engine.

[@davidrte.664]

It would have been worse with a carb and choke.

[@RotoRCol]

why 2 months? I think it is a waste of oil and money unless you race it, if you are doing short trips, for example 10 miles per day, you will reach 2000 miles after 200 days which is around 6 to 7 months

[@EngineeringExplained]

If you're interested, I think you can submit those catch can contents to a lab like Blackstone ($30) and get back a report of what it is. Would be interesting to see what the fuel percentage was.

[@Ichibuns]

@@EngineeringExplained That would've been awesome! I no longer work at that location. A missed opportunity

[@mattsullivan3751]

Had a DI TI4 engine back in 2006 nothing but problems: oil contamination with fuel after 4K miles, HPFP failures, valves being gummed up, etc. Solved it with a old school NA Toyota 1GR-FE V6. Not as fun to drive as the TI4, but also not a single headache.

[@leogreck9984]

Simplicity is what makes reliability. Complex systems tend to have nice numbers on papaer but tend to redact the price you pay for thier unreliability.

[@Suomyice]

What is an TI4 engine?

[@93sundance]

Very informative. Have you ever done a video on GM' s DOD/AFM/DFM and why they fail for so many and why some go many miles without a problem?

[@Pdeloosha]

Definitely would be an interesting topic because I’m curious if the lifters fail because of one or more issues leading up to it or if it’s just poorly made lifters. Everyone blames the afm/dod but is it ?

[@AAron-jj7zx]

This is a great idea. They sell half a million 5.3s a year and the cylinder deactivation problem needs an answer. Honda also had an issue with VCM eating piston rings. I'd love to hear EEs take on it.

[@pirihern9329]

Very well explained. I have a 2011 lexus is250 awd and daughter has a 2015 lexus gs350 f sport. Frequent oil changes done every 5000 miles with 0w-20 synthetic oil. Mostly hwy miles driven

[@kaulincurtis9665]

It is amazing to me the incredibly stringent emissions standards that diesel engines are choked with, and yet the diesel-equivalent soot production of GDI engines is ignored by the EPA. In Europe, GDI engines are getting exhaust soot filters just like diesels. I don't think it will be too much longer until we see a similar crackdown on GDI emissions here in the States. If I'm wrong, then maybe the EPA doesn't actually care about protecting the environment. We really create marvelous problems for ourselves. Engineers in search of an extra 1% of efficiency finally get there, and now it likely will be negated by a restrictive emissions system.

[@pjimmbojimmbo1990]

I would like to see a Ban on Diesels, as the Carbon Particulate is getting so small it gets very deep into One's Lungs and wrecks real Havoc in there

[@pjimmbojimmbo1990]

@alexanderkennedy2969 I never mentioned Lithium Ion Batteries. I just want a ban on Diesels. I can't breathe when there is one within 120 ft. I will be coughing, causing me to Puke, and I will continue to Cough. Once at a Boat Show, during teardown, some Jackass drives a Diesel inside(against the Facility's Rules), gets out leaving it running. After 20 seconds of not being able to breathe, I went up to it, opened the door, shut it off, removed the Keys, told the woman still inside that she should call a Tow Truck. I then left the Building, throwing the Keys into one of the Disposal Bins outside.

[@dustinryan9671]

​@@pjimmbojimmbo1990you sound like a real Karen willing to do crime in order to get your way. If diesels were banned you would not have grocery stores, or gas, or many other things.

[@aantonic]

You take keys of my car and throw it somewhere and you would see the hell on earth, .... It wouldnt be good idea in my case​@@pjimmbojimmbo1990

[@elliottmead660]

Use of the new 0-16 oil designed and manufactured for this specific fuel delivery design can make a big difference and purchasing a vehicle that uses both methods of fuel delivery port and direct can go a long way to helping with that situation as well by allowing gas to still pass over the valves greatly reducing carbon buildup. Also I would maintain a stringent earlier oil change interval dont cheap out on oil changes they cost nothing in the grand scheme of engine protection.

[@rachegreenrg]

Ow16 is junk.5w40 B3/ B4 is the best for long life of engines.

[@bcubed72]

@@rachegreenrg Bwhat? Are you talking oil or vitamins? Just look for the "donut" on the back, and API SP (or C? for the Diesel version) designation. S = spark; C = compression.

[@rachegreenrg]

@@bcubed72 B3/B4 is old European standard for good oil with a lot of zinc and phosphorus.Api standard s are junk.

[@tomschmidt381]

Our 2020 Corolla uses both port and direct injection, the best of both types with the downside of added engine complexity. Luckily the little four-banger does not use turbos. We keep our cars until the wheels fall off, here in the rust belt that is 20-25 years. Hopefully our new one will last as long. Toyota recommends the "new" 0W-16 oil for this engine.

[@rachegreenrg]

@@tomschmidt381 Don't use what Toyota recommends for USA. Use oil grade that Toyota uses in other countries for this engine. For my engine it's 0w20 in USA and 5w40 in Europe.5w40 is a much better oil for engine s long life.

[@SirChevy]

Thank you, this was very informative. I have a 2020 Honda CR-V with the 1.5 L GDI turbocharged engine. I change the oil every 4,000 mile with Mobile 1 and I find the dipstick oil level is above the full mark after a few hundred miles. In my experience, the gas diluting the oil does NOT burn off during a long trip. After long (100+ miles) trip on a hot day in the summer, I never find the oil level returning to the normal full level; it's always above full. I'm very concerned about this.

[@nthgth]

This makes me gladder about my recent purchase of an STI and its port injected EJ257. The low gas mileage is inexcusable (even for 2005), but at least there's less to worry about with my short commute.

[@JeffSSartor]

Lol. The EJ has other problems hahaha

[@nthgth]

@@JeffSSartor Yeah, turbo lag. No engine is perfect, but an LS2 would've been a start

[@Corbots80]

Make sure to do oil flushes. And fuel system treatments

[@manzelli1981]

Others have probably said this, but this could be the reason Mk.7 GTIs have had timing chain issues. Great video, now I’m checking the bottles of oil I’m about to buy!

[@gravemind6536]

If you love your car you should give it the best oil and the best fuel.

[@trentsullivan2010]

You just made so much sense explaining why short trips are bad for your car and what's considered a long vs a short trip duration wise.

[@00gt5speed]

Great video! I drive a Subaru with GDI that I've owned since new and have adhered to practices I've learned in previous videos: -Regular oil changes with certified products -Never let car sit during cold starts [driven immediately after startup] -Always run long enough to get to operating temp On a side note, I find it interesting that the manufacturer requires oil changes every 7k miles. Considering the issues with GDI, I always change every 5k. Also, the recommended use of 87 octane fuel seems low with respect to the propensity to knock at low speeds [which my car exhibits on occasion]. But, I've had no issues yet, with 86k on the clock.

[@mrvwbug4423]

Interesting, I thought Subarus were mostly 5k oil changes. My wife's Legacy uses the port injected FB25 and it's interval is 5k, I would assume your GDI motor is either a BRZ, WRX or 2020+ FB25.

[@00gt5speed]

@@mrvwbug4423 Mine's an '18 Crosstrek with the FB20D. The interval varies depending on the source. I believe the manual states 7k mi., but I've also read 3k-7.5k, and another source says 3k-5k. I think the manufacturer has been revising their recommendations according to updated service records. Who knows for sure? I've been doing 5k intervals with no problems and the sump is only down .5 qt.

[@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521]

So don’t let sit at idle to warm up? Just start it and go?

[@00gt5speed]

@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 yes.

[@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521]

@@00gt5speed why exactly? I was told it’s better to sit and let the car warm up.

[@manvsmachine1]

Thank you for consistently teaching me cool interesting things, in easy to digest and entertaining segments. Also, thank you for sticking with ICE, because it's just way more fun than EV powertrain tech. All the best.

[@apexhugger]

Very good video Jason, thanks! Interesting stuff, on my ND MX5 where API SN is the highest specified oil in the owners manual, I should be able to use API SP as it looks like it most oil manufacturers say that API SP can be used where API SN was recommended by the manufacturer. My current oil is SN but having watched this I think it may be a good idea to go to SP to better protect the timing chain.

[@ArnoldsDesign]

Thanks for the info. It's really interesting as a DI owner. I have a 2019 Toyota Yaris(Mazda 2) with a 1.5 DI engine. I use a spray and soak carbon cleaner before each oil change to clean the intake valves every 5000 miles. I wasn't aware of the low speed detonation and chain pin wear, though I am aware of the oil dilution. It's good to know. In an effort to prevent wear from dilution, I'm using just regular full synthetic Quaker State with the gold label. 540RAT blog tested it last spring and found it to have a film breakdown strength of 152ksi, and respectable high temp breakdown, I think around 280°? It outperformed the Amsoil signature that I ran in my 5.7 hemi to keep the cam lobes from wearing out, so I switched, plus it's a lot cheaper than Amsoil.

[@psions555]

My '03 EU Mitsubishi Galant with the 2.4 GDI is running like a dream still to this day. I follow all the advice and treat it well though short trips is my naughty habit 😊

[@Rekuzan]

Direct fuel injection, AKA: Bosch mechanical fuel injection utilizing a fuel distributor (of all things) and was something that was whole heartedly embraced at the dawn of the golden age for 'Brickyard motors'. Mechanical fuel injection bore witness to the rise of the of B-21 Volvo powerplants that were neigh indestructable.

[@oldanslo]

These were manifold injection systems, not direct injection.

[@ABoringTool]

@@oldanslo Yes DI is a type of fuel injection. The original comment seems to be talking about fuel injection in general

[@Prestiged_peck]

@@oldanslo he might be talking about the old DI systems you see on like the 12v cummins

[@glenwaldrop8166]

One thing worth mentioning, on older engines a little chain stretch often ending up improving fuel economy, essentially retarding the camshaft by ~2 degrees. We'd often see a small drop in fuel economy after replacing the timing chain and tuning the engine after around 50k to 100k.

[@Bramon83]

If you're in your engine by 50k you need a better choice in vehicle manufacturer. My 96 taco has 290k and I get 35 mpg and I haven't changed the plugs yet.

[@glenwaldrop8166]

@@Bramon83 Note: "on older engines". Back in the 80s they still ran carbs. It was far better than the 50s where you had the valves done every 30K or the 60s where you had to give it a full tune up every 30K. That's only one generation behind yours, don't underestimate the longevity added by EFI. Most of the time you wouldn't replace the timing chain until the first major overhaul, plugs/wires every 30K to 50K, replacing valve cover and oil pan gaskets around 100K, generally leaking by then, still might not touch the timing chain unless I have to go into the engine for another reason. 99% of the time you'll hear the timing chain rattling by 100K, it's still perfectly fine, just makes a bit of noise. If the timing set had been replaced by *anything* other than OEM then it won't even rattle by 100K.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

@@glenwaldrop8166 If you used leaded gas in the 50s, you didn't need constant valve jobs, and 30,000 miles between tuneups is too long, but you are right about timing chains and leaking gaskets.

[@glenwaldrop8166]

@@michaelbenardo5695 I should have been clearer, not 50s model cars, 50s mechanics working on old crap, the rest I pretty well said what I meant. My grandfather was a mechanic on the side for 50 years, think he worked for a dealership briefly after the army. He was telling me about how they had to do the valves after around 30k, which involved disassembling the engine on the old flat top V8s. I may have gotten some of the details wrong, my grandfather was damn good with cars but not so good at getting a point across clearly.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

@@glenwaldrop8166 Yup, before the late 50s, "Regular" gas was still unleaded in many places, and yes, you would have to grind your valves and seats often every 20,000 miles. If you used Ethyl, which had Tetraethyl lead in it, you were spared of that, as the lead protected the valves and seats. That's why the automakers were mad about the lead being removed from all gas for 1975 - they had to use Stellite valves and seats in the engines, as they knew motorists would not take kindly about having to go back to constantly having a major valve job.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Port injection is so much simpler and more reliable. It cleans your intake valves as well 😊

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

And another thing he does not mention. With GDI engines they increase the compression, which leads to more very fine soot particles being released into the exhaust. This is then countered by installing a particulate filter, just like on diesel engines. The thing is....Diesel has caught a bad rep, because of the soot problem, but now they introduce this into petrol engines as well. So now they have petrol engines with bad particulate emissions like diesels and because of the lower energy density in petrol, they have higher Co2 emissions. So in short...A modern diesel engine puts out less pollution than a modern GDI petrol engine, but diesel is still getting a lot of hate.

[@protograde2723]

@@JohnDoe-bd5sz Moreover, a diesel engine is wayyyy more efficient and reliable than GDI or whatever the sh!t it is.

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

@@protograde2723 Totally agree, but for some reason the politicians seem to be hellbend on hating on diesels. They just released some figures here, almost no one buys a new diesel anymore, even though it would be better for the enviroment, compared to the petrol ones they get instead.

[@pauliewalnuts240]

​@@JohnDoe-bd5szmodern diesels have become some of the most unreliable engines. Manufacturers have slowly increased reliance on electronics while competing for class leading power numbers and being choked down with emissions reducing equipment. Modern diesels require such precise parameters inorder to make their stated power while exhausting low emissions, new vehicles frequently throw check engine codes requiring a visit to the dealer. Longevity has been sacrificed in the name of torque hence most owners who do long distance heavyweight towing for work trade their trucks in after 5 yrs for a new one. Older diesels could be diagnosed and repaired at home but any new owner of a warrantied diesel truck can tell you about having to bring their truck to the dealer atleast a few times in the first couple years. The cheapest sensors have become extremely expensive out of warranty as have all other parts. You only have to speak to a junk yard owner or follow engine core sales to see how many people are looking for replacement engines after as little as 150k.

[@archangele1]

@@JohnDoe-bd5sz The issue with diesels is that their exhaust is highly carcinogenic. I know three people who have gotten lung cancer from years of exposure to diesel fumes via trucks and in one case, diesel powered boats. Europe is beginning to ban diesels because of their toxic exhaust emissions. And, just walk by one of these diesel pickup idlers in a parking lot and see how the fumes make you choke.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

THIS is how you make a KZbin video! Lots of cool info.. zero begging for likes.. zero ads.

[@frankie9259]

Thank You so much. I just bought a used car with direct injection and I was looking for some technical info and you were a great help ,thanks again.

[@NewDemons666]

I'm actually in the process of buying an aftermarket intake manifold that adds port injection to my mazdaspeed3. More power and clean valves! :)

[@CarsSimplified]

Had to look up how that works, dropping in more injectors like that. Interesting stuff!

[@erodpilat3553]

Link ?

[@nthgth]

Very interesting that that's even something people do!

[@freeride202]

Great video. This would explain why timing chain issues seem to be resolved with more frequent oil changes.

[@PaulNaylor3]

It’s a good practice to check the oil every 1,000 miles. If you have fuel dilution you can smell the fuel on the oil dipstick and change the oil early if this happens.

[@faxxzc]

or just go on a 1h trip to burn the fuel off

[@Pork-Chopper]

Just buy another car...

[@jameschen8]

@@Pork-Chopper I wish

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@Pork-Chopper Keep your 2000's port injected car, if you have one. I'm keeping my 2000 Nissan Sunny

[@v12-s65]

no you can't smell that for sure

[@bq5577x]

You can prevent most of this! LPdi (liquid lpg direct injection) it's like a dream for the GDI engine, I've got a 1.2 TSI (2010) with LPdi, never starts on petrol (so no oil dilution) and pretty much no soot emission. Plus the LPG has a higher octane number. So it's really awesome. My injectors run quieter than on petrol and I haven't had to do a timing chain replacement ever, it's now on 300.000 km (~180.000mi). Exhaust is clean, like bare metal from the inside. Oil stays clean like tea! Also less likely to have LSPI since the autogas instantly evaporates at the injector tip. Rather than petrol forming droplets... (So cold start doesn't require enrichment)

[@stockz7285]

I work at a German car dealer, we see countless cars with very low mileage 2020+ with washed down oil simply from not driving the car long or hard enough to actually heat up the engine and burn off alot of the moisture & fuel, still reliable but don't be afraid to really drive the cars and get them up to temp it really goes a long with with keeping the engines clean a healthy

[@m3arvin]

Toyota's D-4S combined with using a high quality motor oil seems to cover the bases. I use mostly GTMO and Mobil 1, but Pennzoil Ultra Plat (Shell Helix Ultra) if the price is right. Of course the fuel you use has to have a nice PEA additive cocktail (V-Power, Techron, Synergy Supreme+, etc.)... or dump in a bottle of Redline SI-1/SI-2 or Techron every so often.

[@FirstLast-we8cb]

Got that setup in my ISF

[@nthgth]

Had a FR-S with that and it was flawless until 61k when I sold it. New car is a port-only STI; I suppose I'll worry about direct-only for my next car in a couple years. (Unless I can find and afford an ISF)

[@FirstLast-we8cb]

@@nthgth STi! That's what I had before my ISF. Amazing cars

[@davescott9409]

I can't believe you didn't mention Top Tier gas, when discussing GTDI engines and LSPI.

[@VKSgtSLaughter]

TOYOTA... Engines have a dual system with Direct and Port injectors to help keep them clean. Do you know if these engines suffer from oil dilution and carbon buildup? Good video 👍

[@Prestiged_peck]

They do but nowhere near as bad as direct injection only. They're barely worse than port injected engines.

[@yzrippin]

Tacoma's have the 4 DS atkinson-cycle engine the Dual injectors allow it to clean its direct injectors it's valves and also switch to Port injecting during the Atkinson cycle

[@jasoncee666]

They are good but I still recommend a catch can...

[@CWHolleman]

I used to own a Mazdaspeed 3 and the fuel blow by was insane! Every time I changed the oil it absolutely reeked of fuel. Many of those vehicles needed media blasting to clean the internals.

[@pjimmbojimmbo1990]

Issues with Direct Inject were known in the late 90s, when OMC started using it in their Outboards. A change in the Combustion Process under some operational conditions, resulted in a very Hard Carbon Particulate forming. This would get behind the Piston Rings, and eventually prevent them from contracting in enough to allow the piston to move in the Bore. These were 2 Stroke Engines, but DI is also wrecking Havoc with 4 Strokes

[@williamjesse8357]

I have a 2.0 4 cylinder in a 2012 ford focus 5 speed manual transmission and has 260,000 miles on it and it is direct fuel injection with chain n gear not a belt and still runs fantastic !

[@anthonys7534]

Could we see an update video on how manufacturers use port and direct injection together?! That would be awesome!

[@skythundersky1544]

Shoutsout Toyota

[@druginducedfeverdream1613]

Pre-chamber technology is even better, which is what a lot of diesels use, and is what Formula 1 is currently using. Basically instead of directly injecting into the combustion chamber, there is a small pre-chamber where the spark plug (or glow plug if it's a diesel) and fuel injector are actually located. This allowed the air and fuel to mix in the combustion chamber like port injection, but kept the benefits of direct injection. Obviously results and design varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but it's a pretty old technology that is being brought back in some applications.

[@leogreck9984]

Sounds funky, read about the pre-chamber techology before in old Diesel engines. But who knowns if sacreficing the perfect combustion chamber shape is worth the better mixing of fuel and air.

[@dannjudy10]

I bought a new honda Accord that had a pre combustion chamber in the late 70's. Pre chamber looks like a spark plugs hole to the cylinder, with rich mixture. The regular intake/exhaust was lean mixture. No unleaded fuel required. No catyl converter. 1750cc. Sold it 4 years later. Not a single problem!

[@timothykeith1367]

@@dannjudy10 I think the classic Honda CVCC system is called "stratified charge". It didn't need a catalytic converter until years after other manufacturers required one.

[@druginducedfeverdream1613]

@@leogreck9984 It creates a much cleaner and more importantly and MUCH smoother burn. Instead if a *BANG* when the spark plug fires, it's more like a quick *WHOOSH*

[@craighoffman6876]

Interesting and detailed video. It seems GDI leads to similar challenges faced by diesels, which also have DI and have to deal with soot and don't do well with short tripping. It is quite notable that GDI engines produce more soot than port injection out their exhaust. Perhaps we will eventually see DPFs on gas powered engines too, another PITA to deal with.

[@MrKnutriis]

Direct injection gas engines foul up the intake valve which is not a big problem in diesel due to differences in valve timing. I didn't know that they made more soot than ported injection - that's not an attractive feature either. 300 horsepower from a small engine is not for the home mechanic.

[@T410ce]

Perhaps if we weren’t trying to get 300Hp out of a four cyl engine we wouldn’t have most of these problems. If we simply put a horsepower cap on new engines and reduced power output by around 30% on all automotive engines we wouldn’t have a lot of these problems.

[@matsudakodo]

@@MrKnutriis make sure to use gas with good detergents, ie Top Tier gasoline. Use their website to find stations in your area. It helps with intake valve buildup.

[@JohnDoe-bd5sz]

They have already started installing GPF on petrol engines. Now Petrol engines has just as bad particulate emissions as diesels and still put out more Co2, but hey...Diesels bad, petrol not...

[@jonhagan7378]

Love an ole fashion EE whiteboard video. I like the clarification of chain elongation and not stretching.

[@Néerlandais-p1q]

Tanks for this video, this is the problem what you talk about, i am a machanic and sees this very much. psa engine thp, vti , bmw , and stellantis engines, and wet drive belt is a problem Ecoboom engine

[@henrymach]

I think direct injection is a good thing for race car engines that don't have to last long. For normal use cars, cost/benefit wise it's a bad idea. They demand a tighter maintenance schedule and a lot of attention. And when they break it's usually expensive

[@AI-qd4vb]

you think wrong... Costs are minimally increased while efficiency is greatly increased and most of the issues have been ironed out. Normal users should stop being absolute morons and figure out how to properly mantain their cars. Frequent oil changes, frequent long trips, allow the engine to heat before smashing it. 3 very simple steps that make even the most unreliable of engines pretty much bullet proof. All modern engines are a lot more reliable and efficient than past ones. You might not realize it if youre constantly comparing apples to oranges... If youre thinking of those shitty corolla or civic tincans with their sub 100hp na 4 potters as test benches for the modern 200hp+ 50mpg turbo I4's then yeah, youre doing a terrible job at comparing stuff. No old engine can match the power, weight, smoothness and efficiency of modern engines and mantain their stellar reliability at the same time. None. Not the 2JZ, not the RB, not the K series, no LS, nor any of the mythological 80s o 90s engines.

[@albertnoble2727]

I don't think that's entirely true. Newer toyota engines utilize gdi and they are supposed to last more than 300k kms.

[@ldnwholesale8552]

Race enines have the nozzles as far up in the intake trumpets as possible. Direct injection would simply kill the engines

[@andyossie]

Actually Mike Essa (Formula Drift Champion) deleted the direct injection in his E46 BMW drift car and recently the DDE Ferrari F12 too.

[@bryanringstrand5971]

All cars will suffer from only short trips. That's not unique to DI. The biggest issue with DI is soot build-up on valves which can be alleviated with routine oil changes with a high quality oil and an occasional fuel system cleaning through the throttle body. The build up on the valves is not from fuel but from oil evaporation (i.e. breakdown of the oil) being drawn back through the PCV system (look for the Noack value of oil). If you use a high quality oil and change it routinely, you shouldn't have any issues with modern DI cars. Some of the earlier versions (VW in particular) simply had bad designs that contributed to the build up on the valves, but I think that has mostly been mitigated now.

[@qrogueuk]

I'm running a 1L ecoboost fiesta, I change my filter and oil every 6 months with 5W20 Castrol Magnatec. This is between 2500-3500 miles, 90% of which are trips to work and back. Around 10 miles each way and a mix of 30-50 MPH roads. I mostly full up with, shell v power (yes it cost more than E10) and the few tanks I didn't use it. Due needing to fill up during the fuel shortage 2021 (UK) or just trying another supplier. I found the tanks didn't go as far.

[@NEWNATURE777]

A water vapor injection has been proven to be the solution for DI engine many years ago by inventor George Heeley....the results will better MPG, better emissions, less wearing and tearing of the tranny and engine, no carbon build up at all etc..... car's manufacturers are aware of but for obvious reasons they don't want to expense money on it.....😃

[@jaywhy2016]

It's only going to get worst as government introduces more and more tougher emission standards. The vehicle PCV system was designed for carbureted engines. It hasn't change to keep up with modern fuel injected engines, but as a tech told me when I use to work at the dealer, it only need to last until the warranty runs out

[@PS-zw4yc]

Well according to biden. If you buy an electric vehicle you can drive all the way across the country on a single tank of gas

[@nthgth]

Right, and consumer gasoline engines account for what, a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of harmful emissions? Sure, punish us enthusiasts. _We're_ the problem.

[@PS-zw4yc]

@@nthgth right!

[@PURENT]

@@nthgth Around 17% of United States GHG emissions are from light duty vehicles (passenger cars, vans, SUVs and pick-up trucks).

[@nthgth]

@@PURENT how many percent are from people whose _passion_ is centered around ICE-powered cars?

[@douglasmount188]

Thanks! Loving our 2.7L Ford EcoBoost with Amsoil Super Synthetic oil changes every 5k miles...

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

If you have one of these engines and get the dreaded MIL due to multiple random misfires, run a can of CRC GDI and intake cleaner through it. It got rid of our MIL problem. I also suggest doing it at least yearly and do it from when the car is new.

[@JetteVetteGS]

As soon as Hyundai/Kia went to direct injection in 2011 they have been plagued with catastrophic engine failures. It got so bad so quickly that there were a bunch of class action lawsuits which forced Hyundai/Kia to put a lifetime warranty extension on the majority of their direct injected 4 cylinder engines for connecting rod bearing failure. Their direct injection engines also have a tendency to consume excessive oil due to the soot deposits in the cylinder affecting the piston ring's ability to seal.

[@ianspeckmaier9565]

I owned two 2010s Hyundai Accents and both burned half a liter of oil between changes. Always thought I just had bad luck, now I realize all of them do that. Now I drive a 2002 Ford Focus with a 2.0 liter EFI engine that doesn't burn a drop of oil in 4500mi change intervals.

[@mrlor3d]

Another downside of direct injection - it makes LPG conversions more costly. LPG is popular in Europe (mostly eastern) thanks to lower prices and that makes direct injection engines a pain in the arse. If you want to convert a standard port injected 4 cylinder car you need around 500-800USD. But DI makes these cost double and the car needs to burn petrol as well.

[@BigUriel]

There are liquid injection kits now that use the OEM injectors, no need to burn any petrol. They aren't available for many engines yet though.

[@mrlor3d]

@@BigUriel oh yes, forgot to mention them. Therefore they are highly priced

[@garethfern4177]

We have had LPG in Australia for decades. Although now it's getting phased out. In fact before we lost Australian car manufacturing all the big 3 had factory LPG options

[@bq5577x]

But if you do it, it's like a dream for the GDI engine, I've got a 1.2 TSI (2010) with LPdi, never sysrts on petrol (so no oil dilution) and pretty much no soot emission. Plus the LPG has a higher octane number. So it's really awesome. My injectors run quieter than on petrol and I haven't had to do a timing chain replacement ever, it's now on 300.000 km (~180.000mi). Exhaust is clean, like bare metal from the inside. Oil stays clean like tea! Also less likely to have LSPI since the autogas instantly evaporates at the injector tip. Rather than petrol forming droplets... (So cold start doesn't require enrichment)

[@mrlor3d]

@@garethfern4177 In Europe some manufacturers were selling CNG cars, but with LPG it was only a reseller option (which was waaaay more expensive than market LPG convertion but the warranty wasn't voided") - Renault, Dacia, Fiat and once even Alfa Romeo.

[@trentonmurphy5156]

All good points and not saying you're wrong with all the points but some cases seeing older motors vs newer vechiles with more emissions devices. Your carbon build ups are coming from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation devices, pcv valves dumping back into the intake, lack of oil changes or the obvious air fuel mixture, but not from where the injectors are located. Carbon comes from the exhaust. Yes the indirect injection can help clean the intake valves but it's from the emissions going back into the motor to be reburned to reduce emissions. All performance vechiles dont have any of these and their components are cleaner than those motors on the road today. This is what I've seen with vechiles but not saying this is always the case for everyone else.

[@davidanderson6706]

Right.

[@kousikv2247]

Your correct

[@jaywebb0113]

I was an auto tech at a GMC dealership for 8 years. I was there when the 2014s Sierra/Yukons came out with The GDI engines. I would say the biggest issues I seen on these engines are caused by lack of basic maintenance. Some reason GM decided that in most driving conditions these oil life monitors would go about 7500 miles til it reached 0. Well then the owners would wait another 2 weeks-month to have it serviced. Because these engines have the AFM with hydraulic lifters ( which ran off oil ) lack of oil changes caused these to fail. Another thing I saw was the failure of the injectors themselves. Typically stuck open dumping fuel. This wasnt because of the oil intervals , some were new and had bad injectors. However normal injector service would pro long the life of the injectors from getting clogged. Then with the GDI due to the carbon build up on the intake valves , induction services were highly recommended at about 15k-20k miles to help stop the build up. Alot of the build up I saw was caused by short trips , stop n goes. The carbon can cause cold start misfires. hard starts. ect. Another thing was the vacuum pumps on these trucks that were lubricated from the oil , lack of oil changes caused alot of these to fail. GM had a recall to reprogram the software to try to fix it but it didnt... Ended up replacing alot of pumps under special coverage . They updated the pump with a new design but nearly every one I replaced I noticed in service history of extended oil change intervals. I have a 2018 Sierra with the 5.3 I change my oil every 5k while running full synthetic oil. I also use injector/fuel system cleaner in the tank every oil change. I have 41k on my truck and not a single issue due to carbon, lifters, injectors or vacuum pump.

[@craigiefconcert6493]

My 1999 CRV is great-super reliable. Not much power but it’s enough for me. Gets about 13 L/100 km. I had a rented diesel truck. Big truck, tons of power, crew cab. It got under 9 L/100 km highway!

[@John-ro3vu]

Are these also issues with Diesel? Diesel has used direct injection with success for a long time. Honestly curious how Direct injection between the two systems is different.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Diesel soot is actually a bit softer than gasoline soot, and so they don't tend to have issues with timing chains (from my discussions in prepping this video).

[@computercrack]

Diesel cars have had or still have issues with the emission system, especially the emission return valve. It clogs up and the engine starts running badly, power decrease, warning lights and s*** like that. Very common issue, but I don't know if this part is used in US cars. Very bad example the GM product Opel Vectra C with the 1.9l Diesel. Great engine basically, good power, very economical but tons of this issue.

[@Prestiged_peck]

@@computercrack we call it exhaust gas recirculation but it's a similar system, we mostly just tune the ECU to never open the valve.

[@leogreck9984]

@@Prestiged_peck yea try that in germany and get fined for modifing a car in a way that badly effects emisson values.

[@John-ro3vu]

@@computercrack thanks for clarifying, I was wondering if the “gunk” build up on the intake valves was an issue as well!

[@brianhoefer7148]

3:20 Yes you can filter it out. The oil itself is filter for micro particles thus changing the oil often is really the best defense against engine wear.

[@shredder8910]

Well, that's not filtering it out from the oil, which is his whole point. And it does necessitate a more frequent oil change interval in that scenario, which is a downside

[@JC-gw3yo]

Engines of the 90's were the epidemy of long life. Quality fuel injection combined with overdrive transmissions to slow down the engines basically doubles engine life. I feel sorry for the buyers of new vehicles as they will fork out big dollars to have their engines not last any more than an old car of the 1950's. I will keep running my 1990's vehicles forever

[@michaelbenardo5695]

The 50s engine, with today's oils, will last a LONG time. And isn't full of computers.

[@johnfranklin5277]

@@michaelbenardo5695 I run 10 40 diesel oil in my 58 cadillac. Seems happy with it.

[@francoisverdoes8552]

I am from South Africa,man your discussions gives me hours of pleasure.thanks

[@knowwhey7559]

I have a 2012 Ford Focus (direct injection) with 212,000 KM. I didn't change my oil for a year and a half during Covid because I lost track of time. A VVT solenoid went on Dec 23, but I drove home for Christmas in a snowstorm. I drove it for a day with a serious leak in the cooling overflow system. The engine runs fine, gets fantastic gas mileage, and starts up on -30 mornings with no hesitation. With the abuse this engine has taken, I think the worries of direct injection are way overblown.

[@roymoorman5990]

Thanks for your explanation. I notice that timing chain stretch usually happens only in the I4 engines of some German brands like merc and bm while their respective I6/V6 engines that use the same technology don't have this problem. Would you agree that this is likely due to the secondary imbalance of I4 engines ? This new tech is only designed to save you money in the first four years of the cars life. After that it's cheaper to run an older v6 that drinks more at the pump but is waaaay cheaper to keep running correctly.